Abstract:

The purpose of this paper is to find out the effect of fabric thickness on collar roll ease and differences between top and under of lapel collar. Commonly-used outwear fabrics were chosen to test the thickness of fabric with and without interlining. The lapel roll ease of under collar was tested with slash and spread method. The differences between top and under of lapel collar, including outer edge ease of top collar, roll line ease of top collar and the ease added to allow the outer edge of top collar hiding to the under collar, were tested. The relationship between fused fabric thickness and lapel roll ease, differences of top and under collar were discussed, and the predicting models were established. Moreover, three new fabrics were chosen to test the model by comparing the calculating result with the testing result, showing that the established model of collar roll ease and differences between top and under of lapel collar has good predicting effect since the result based on predicting model is basically coincide with the testing result. The research findings can provide the theoretical base for developing lapel collar patterns rapidly and accurately.

Key words: fabrics thickness, lapel collar, collar roll ease, width of face and back