Table of Content

15 August 2010, Volume 31 Issue 8

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纤维材料

Study on chitosan spinning dope and its wet-spinning process

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(8):  1-5. 

Abstract ( 1344 )   PDF (716KB) ( 399 )   Save

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The influences of acid concentration, temperature, and chitosan concentration on properties of chitosan spinning dope were studied, and the wet-spinning process of preparing chitosan nascent fiber were further discussed. The results show that chitosan of high degree of deacetylation is more easily dissolved in acetic acid and increases crystallization of chitosan nascent fibers. When preparing chitosan spinning dope, the concentration of acetic acid is at 2%(mol) and the temperature changes between 30 ℃ and 50℃. In the process of spinning, the coagulation bath consists of 5% NaOH and 95% water，and the efficiency of fiber formation and uniformity are improved by adding ethanol and Na2SO4 in it. The temperature of coagulation bath varies from 20 ℃ to 30 ℃. By prolonging the coagulation time and increasing wind-up speed, highly oriented and high-strength chitosan nascent fibers are obtained.

Study on preparation and stability of Cellulose LiCl/DMAc solution

Halidan Mamat

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(8):  6-11. 

Abstract ( 3263 )   PDF (782KB) ( 689 )   Save

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The preparation and stability of cellulose LiCl/DMAc（lithium chloride/N,N-dimethylacetamide） solution were studied .The results showed that: The cellulose of activated were added to the LiCl / DMAc system which formed by LiCl dissolved in DMAc, and stirrd certain period of time at 100 ℃ then cooled to room temperature stirring for several hours, the uniformly transparent cellulose LiCl / DMAc solution will be geted. The greater the concentration of cellulose, the longer the time required heat stirring and room temperature stirring; Similarly, the bigger the polymerization degree of cellulose , the worse the dissolved effection; The cellulose swelling only insoluble when LiCl includes crystal water, moreover when the quality score of LiCl surpasses 6%, the cellulose can be dissolved completely,and its content need to improve with the Content of cellulose . In addition, by studying the rate of change of the viscosity of cellulose LiCl / DMAc solution over time at different temperatures, come in lower than 50 ℃, the solution is very stable within 30 days; solution heated to 100 ℃, may stabilize 15 hours of the conclusion there.

Study on Application of Titanate Coupling Agent in CaCO3-filled SF/PVA Blend Films

Qi LU

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(8):  12-15. 

Abstract ( 1223 )   PDF (533KB) ( 353 )   Save

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The CaCO3-filled SF/PVA blend films were prepared by blending solution with CaCO3 treated with titanate coupling agent. The effects of titanate coupling agent on mechanical properties and stability of wet of CaCO3-filled blend films were discussed. The results showed that when the content of titanate coupling agent was 0.5%, it had good membrane formation property, the improving of the tensile strength, elongation at break mechanical properties and the stability of wet of blend films had obvious effect. After the content of titanate coupling agent increased, the mechanical properties decreased and dissolve-loss rates increased gradually.

DCCA treatment of rabbit hair fiber and property test

DING Hao DING;HU Guoliang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(8):  16-20. 

Abstract ( 1064 )   PDF (1249KB) ( 427 )   Save

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Abstract： Rabbit hair fiber is characterized by smooth fiber surface，low coefficient of friction. To overcome these phenomena，the rabbit hair was first treated with Na2CO3 ,followed by DCCA treatment. The effect of DCCA content on the fiber strength and the coefficient of surface friction was analyzed. and a suitable process of DCCA treatment was determined,25℃;30min;liquor ratio1：25;DCCA（o.w.f）1.5%, which changed the morphological structure of the fiber surface with the least possible variation in strength. Thus，the fiber surface friction coefficient，inter—fiber cohesion，and spinnability were enhanced.

Comparison study on wool shrink-proof finishings of different methods

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(8):  21-25. 

Abstract ( 1236 )   PDF (946KB) ( 311 )   Save

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Six kinds of shrink-proof finishing technologies such as hydrogen peroxide，sodium hypochlorite，potassium permanganate，chitosan，hydrogen peroxide/chitosan and sodium hypochlorite/chitosan were respectively taked for the wool fibers and wool fabrics shrink-proof fnishing experiments. Such changes as breaking strength of wool fibers，frictional performance of wool fibers，shrinkage rate of wool fabric and surface morphology of wool fibers before and after the shrink-proof finishing were measured. The finishing effects of various shrink-proof finishings were analysied. Of the six shrink-proof finishing methods，the hydrogen peroxide/chitosan treatment was the best treatment for wool shrink-proof finishing through the comprehensive comparison in fiber damage，fabric shrinkage performance and environmental characteristics.

The study on online foam dyeing of cellulosic spunlaced nonwoven

XIN Chang-Zheng;Xiu-Qin Yang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(8):  26-31. 

Abstract ( 999 )   PDF (753KB) ( 351 )   Save

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In order to get uniform dyeing effect of cellulosic spunlaced nonwoven, the quantitative investigation of thickener, foamer, foam stabilizer, penetrating agent and other components on the foaming ratio and the half-life were made. The results indicated that better compatibility foam system and a more satisfactory foam dyeing products can be achieved with the amount of thickener as 7.2~8.4g / L, the ratio of the foamerⅠ and Ⅱ as 1.0~1.2:1, foam stabilizer as 0.6~1.0g/L and penetrating agent as 7.3~8.3 mL/L.

纺织工程

Fabric difference directions’ drapability performances research with image test method

Jing Lingxiao

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(8):  32-36. 

Abstract ( 1702 )   PDF (521KB) ( 286 )   Save

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This topic designed a new test method to fabric drapability performances with the application of computer image processing technology, and evaluated the fabric drape performances in different directions. A fabric drapability performances test device was made. The principle of the test device is that a set platform of fabric drapability performances testing was designed, the fabric was placed on its, and the positive and two sides images of fabric drapability state was obtained with digital cameras. All images were processed with AUTOCAD software, and three indexs of fabric drape coefficient, the maximum length and area ratio of longitude and weft directions were got. So a set of fabric drapability performances comprehensive evaluation method was established, and 30 fabric samples were tested. Under the same conditions, these samples were tested with YG811 fabric drapability tester, and the error of 24 samples test results is not more than 5%. So the testing results of new device and evaluation method is credible.

Research on sample size for the breaking tenacity and breaking

Zhou Ying

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(8):  36-40. 

Abstract ( 1062 )   PDF (575KB) ( 344 )   Save

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By a great many of tests on the breaking tenacity and breaking elongation of single filament, the research gives the method in determing the rational sample size in the testing using statistical method and monte carlo simulation means. And the theoretical results are verified by simulation, which affords credible and useful theoretical basis for the standard creation of this index.

The principle and method of expressing jacquard patterns of transition-color with single color of silk

Yu Zhang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(8):  41-44. 

Abstract ( 1194 )   PDF (1624KB) ( 339 )   Save

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For the purpose of expressing art patterns on jacquard silk fabric of single color, this paper carries on preliminary discussion on how to transfer jacquard patterns to silk fabric of single color by digital weaving-technique based on characteristics of silk fabric. It focuses on a design principle and method , with which special jacquard patterns that have gradual transition effect are expressed on single color silk fabric through graphic process and model of weave construction. Then, according to the jacquard fabric experiments, the changes of fabric glossiness and brightness which based on weave structure arrangements are preliminarily discussed, from which practical method of jacquard fabric with gradual transition effect is obtained.

Integral structure and weaving of keyboard fabric

HUANG Xiao-mei

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(8):  45-48. 

Abstract ( 941 )   PDF (825KB) ( 241 )   Save

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This paper discussed the integral structure of keyboard fabric, analyzed the structural feature and gave the mathed of design for structure and looming drafting.Weaving technology was introduced and loom set factors were discussed.Experiment showed that weaving of this fabric is feasible by the loom which has been reequipped.

On Silk Fabric Re-development from Consumer Behavior

CHEN ZHI-HUA;LIU Guolian LIU

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(8):  49-55. 

Abstract ( 934 )   PDF (797KB) ( 284 )   Save

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Based on the survey of consumer behavior of the young and middle-aged consumers in the categories of silk clothing, such as colors, patterns, performance, marketing, pricing and sales channels. The authors analysis of consumer spending on apparel silk psychological, consumption attitudes and preferences. This six-point-proposal proposed the re-development of the silk fabric for the silk apparel design, production, and provides a reference for the operation.

染整与化学品

screening and Identification of a Bacterium Strain with specific Ramie degumming

Zuo Weidong Zuo;Xu Pingzhen Xu;Hu Guangyi Hu;Wu Dayang Wu

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(8):  56-60. 

Abstract ( 920 )   PDF (1283KB) ( 324 )   Save

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In this paper, a bacterium strain with high-efficient ramie degumming , named Dazu5-1, was isolated from field soil by iterative enrichment,screening and rescreening methods. When the strains are used for 2d fermentation degumming of ramie, the average weight loss rate can reach 30.2%. Compared with the chemical degumming, Dazu5-1 strain degumming can make the average value of single fiber strength of ramie increase by 76.93%. Finally, the Dazu5-1 strain is identified as Shigella by morphological observation, physiological and biochemical indexes determination, 16SrDNA base sequencing and homology analysis.

Study of the preparations and properties of the novel eco-friendly ultralow solid containing rate emulsion thickener

Wei WAN;Sha LI

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(8):  61-67. 

Abstract ( 1138 )   PDF (1099KB) ( 448 )   Save

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In order to improve the stiff hand feeling of the pigment printing and to overcome the oil pollution of the traditional kerosene emulsion thickener and the electrolyte sensitivity of the synthetic thickener, the new O/W and W/O emulsion thickener with the eco-friendly nonionic silicone and a certain proportion of water were prepared , and the influences of different emulsifiers or emulsifier combinations on the emulsion type, the viscosity and rheological property, the storage stability and the chemical compatibility of new emulsion thickeners were investigated. The experimental results showed that: the new emulsion thickener prepared with emulsifier combination could have the highest viscosity, the storage stability and the chemical compatibility of O/W emulsion thickener prepared with pure non-ionic emulsifier were the best; O/W emulsion thickener showed excellent application performance, with which, pigment printed silk sample could get super-soft hand feeling.

An investigation on the improvement of light fastness of polyester with an o-hydroxyphenyl-s- triazine compound

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(8):  68-72. 

Abstract ( 1082 )   PDF (662KB) ( 249 )   Save

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In order to improve the light fastness of polyester fabrics, 2-(2,4-dihydroxyphenyl)-4,6- bis(2,4-dimethylphenyl)-s-triazine (simply named as UV-Abs in this paper) with an o-hydroxyphenyl-s-triazine group in the molecule was prepared which has the performance of a UV-absorber. The UV-Abs was dyed onto polyester fabric with high temperature and high pressure processing. The effects of it on the improving of ultraviolet protection and the light fastness of polyester fabrics were discussed. The results showed, this o-hydroxyphenyl-s-triazine compound has a relative high uptake rate on polyester under high temperature and high pressure condition. On the polyester fabrics dyed either with UV-Abs alone or together with dyes, there were obvious improvement on ultraviolet protection. The yellowing of polyester fabrics dyed with UV-Abs alone declined. The dyeing of UV-Abs with disperse dyes in one bath could improve the light fastness of polyester fabrics in a certain extent.

The wearability of linen fabric via UV-induced photografting of acrylic acid

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(8):  73-77. 

Abstract ( 910 )   PDF (839KB) ( 291 )   Save

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The linen fabric was modified via UV photografting of acrylic acid. The wearability of photografted linen fabric was studied. The results showed large improvement on dye uptake and color depth, enhancement on tensile properties and stiffness, decrease in air permeability. With the grafting ratio increasing, the dyeuptake, color difference and stiffness increased,but the air permeability decreased. At the grafting ratio of 8%, good dyeing effect could be achieved.

Study on Consolidation and properties of deterioration Silk with fibroin Protein and Glutaraldehyde

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(8):  78-81. 

Abstract ( 1032 )   PDF (796KB) ( 331 )   Save

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Deterioration silk was treated by fibroin protein and the cross-linking agent glutaraldehyde and the property changes of the deterioration silk were studied. The results showed that the deterioration silk was treated by 1.0% fibroin protein, 0.005% glutaraldehyde, treatment time in silk protein solution (t1) 40 min, and that in glutaraldehyde (t2) 60 min, the consolidation effect of fragile silk fabrics was satisfactory, aging resistant performance was improved, at the same time ,the consolidated fabrics had a good sense of touch and nice appearance.

K/S Value Prediction of Reactive Dyestuff with Improved LM-BP Algorithm

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(8):  82-85. 

Abstract ( 1538 )   PDF (479KB) ( 272 )   Save

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An improved prediction model using Levenberg-Marquardt algorithm was carried out to make up for some defects such as slow convergence speed and local minimum point in traditional algorithm of BP neural network. Then the new prediction model was applied to indicate the relationship between various technical parameters and K/S values in dyeing with reactive dyestuff. Meanwhile, the convergence time and predictive precision of both prediction models were compared. The results revealed that LM-BP network model achieved the required precision after about 7 steps training while more than 1500 steps were needed in traditional BP network model. The correlation coefficient between predictive and experimental K/S values was improved from 0.995 to 0.999 accordingly. It was considered that LM-BP method was superior in the prediction by antitheses. The predictive time was shorter and the predictive veracity was higher in LM-BP method.

Non-reactive modification of cotton and the application in the dyeing with natural dyes

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(8):  86-91. 

Abstract ( 1041 )   PDF (763KB) ( 318 )   Save

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Aiming at the problem of low dye-uptake and poor color fastness of natural dyes on cotton fabrics, the technology of non-reactive modification on cotton with cationic surfactants was studied. The effect of modifier type, modifier concentration, treating temperature, treating pH value and duration of treatment on the dyeing K/S value was researched; the physical mechanical properties of cotton pre and post modifying , level dyeing property and color fastness was also analysis. The results demonstrate that the cationized cotton fabrics still remain its excellent whiteness、strength and hygroscopicity; the dyed cotton with natural dyes have considerable improvement in K/S value，and better level dyeing property, as well as color fastness.

The application of microencapsulated organic pigment in pigment printing

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(8):  97-102. 

Abstract ( 1582 )   PDF (2776KB) ( 452 )   Save

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A series of microencapsulated organic pigment prepared by in-situ miniemulsion polymerization were applied into pigment printing of cotton fabric. The effects of distemper constituted form, encapsulating polymer property and printing technology on the printing qualities were investigated. It was found that, comparing with the traditional printed fabric, the K/S value, the handle, the dry and wet fastness of printed fabric treated by microencapsulated pigments were better than the former, implying the present of polymeric layer on the pigment particles can remarkably improve the dispersion of pigment particles on fabric surface and the binding force of pigment particles with fabric. It was also found that both the polymer property of microencapsulation and the baking technology play important roles in improving printing quality due to the segmental mobility and flexibility of encapsulating polymer. The appropriate encapsulating polymer layer is the copolymer of butyl acrylate and fractional rigid monomer, and the appropriate baking temperature and time is 140℃ and 5 min.

服装工程

A Research on Ttrousers Structural Design

Hou-lin Wu

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(8):  103-107. 

Abstract ( 923 )   PDF (1658KB) ( 364 )   Save

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Design of the proportion of trousers structure, there is a set of empirical formula and fixed-inch, which is accumulated through long-term practice and experience, there are certainly reasonable. However, a variety of pants for a rich and varied styles, appropriate ratio of distribution is a very difficult problem to master; designers are often subject to such empirical formula, while the constraints of the design ideas, limiting the innovative design of the play. Article describes a new method of structural design of trousers - decile method, it is based on the proportional relationship between the body structure, by setting the "crotch position marking" and "crotch-bit Adjustment," to use equal portions of the corresponding designed Trousers the proportion of parts of the structure of relationships; under the pants shape changes and to the basic structure of pants patterns, based on changes in the structure design of various types of pants style. This method avoids the complex calculations and experience-inch, the structure is more reasonable, comfortable fitness is good, change the design flexible, and feasible, the design accuracy and efficiency improved significantly.

The Artistic Features of Modern Animation role Clothing Art

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(8):  108-112. 

Abstract ( 1197 )   PDF (2229KB) ( 419 )   Save

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As a basic design aspect, animation role clothing art is the most intuitive and vivid embodiment carrier of social background, occupational status, geographical characteristics of the nation in animation role, which location and design is particularly critical. Summary of this article, as well as to take a comprehensive analysis of research methods, Put forward the concept of modern animation role clothing art, Summed up the role of clothing in the role of animation work and classification, Explore the different artistic characteristics to the reality of the artistic features of clothing. Study on the role that clothing has the property of exaggeration of visual、Virtual reality、time and space mixed、interesting、displaying and Consume. At the same time, analysis the relationship between its and the reality clothing.

Study on the rotator cuff of the suit based on the improved BP Neural Network

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(8):  113-116. 

Abstract ( 950 )   PDF (717KB) ( 320 )   Save

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Armhole and sleeve is one of the most complicated parts in the garment pattern, and the pattern of this part can directly affect the model of the rotator cuff and the thermal comfort. This paper adopts the algorithm in improved BP artificial neural network to design the rotator cuff of the suit, approches the automatic mapping relation which is from the matching specifications sizes of sleeve and armholestructure to rotator cuff style of clothing. 30 samples were used to train BP neural network and 10 samples were measured, which show that this method is effective and accurate, and can predict the rotator cuff style of suit , reduce the defects of sleeve and improve the efficiency of the pattern design.

机械与器材

Analysis of influencing factors for flow field in reed groove of air jet loom

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(8):  117-121. 

Abstract ( 952 )   PDF (1808KB) ( 451 )   Save

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The air velocity in reed groove could be tested to analysis the influence of process parameters for the weft insertion. In this article, the pitot tube is applied to test the air velocity at different positions in reed groove by the instrument designed, and the adjusting range of jet angle and relay nozzle distance is studied. The results indicate there are different velocities at different positions; when the supply pressure is 2～4×105Pa, the jet angle of relay nozzle could not be 5º, or the air velocity for weft insertion will be too low; shortening the relay nozzle distance is helpful to improve the average air velocity in reed groove, and when the relay nozzle distance is 65mm the air velocity in reed groove could satisfy the weft insertion requirement of 100 m•s-1 completely.

Analysis of assistant nozzle with different orifice-form of air-jet loom based on FLUENT

陈革 CHEN Ge

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(8):  122-124. 

Abstract ( 1759 )   PDF (810KB) ( 439 )   Save

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Simulation solutions to assistant nozzle with four orifice-form was done based on Fluent．The flow field velocity in the state of turbulence were obtained, and the inside flow field of assistant nozzle is microcosmically described．Influence of the orifice-form to the ejecting flow field was analyzed．According to the result of numerical calculation，supplied with the same air-pressure，the ejecting capacity of four orifice-form assistant nozzle took turns：7 circular orifice > rectangular orifice > circular twin-orifice > single circular orifice．Compared with the experiment result，it was proven that the numerical simulation has a high reliability．