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Table of Content

    15 June 2010, Volume 31 Issue 6
    • 纤维材料
      Structure and property of electrospun MWNTs/silk fibroin nanofiber mats
      XU Anchang;ZHANG Min;PAN Zhijuan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  1-6. 
      Abstract ( 1069 )   PDF (516KB) ( 558 )   Save
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      Electrospun silk fibroin fiber mats have some drawbacks, such as instability in water and poor mechanical properties, that limit its applications. The acid treated MWNTs were dispersed in silk fibroin/formic acid to reinforce the electrospun silk nanofibers. XPS analysis indicated that MWNTs not only mixed with silk matrix physically but formed certain chemical bonds with it, thus reinforcing the matrix. With the increase of mass concentration of MWNTs, the microstructure of the fiber was improved and the regularity inside the fiber was enhanced. When the mass concentration of the MWNTs was less than 1%, the fracture strength and initial modulus of composite fiber mat were increased significantly with the increasing of mass fraction of MWNTs. But if the mass concentration of MWNTs was too high, the mechanical property would be deteriorated.

      Influence of dope dyeing on structure and properties of PAN fiber
      YAN Rui’an;ZHU Xinjun;ZHANG Yumei;WANG Xinhou
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  7-10. 
      Abstract ( 1090 )   PDF (533KB) ( 453 )   Save
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      In order to promote the development and popularization of downstream products of the dope-dyed PAN, X-ray diffraction analysis and scanning electron microscope (SEM) were used to examine the crystalline structure, orientation and morphology of the dope-dyed PAN fiber. The results indicated that the crystalline structure, orientation and morphological structure were influenced by the addition of pigment. Meanwhile, the physical mechanical properties of the dope-dyed PAN fiber were improved obviously, with heat-resistance enhanced andt little effect on hygroscopic property, its overall performances were better than that of the conventional PAN fiber.

      Study on rheological properties of naturally colored cotton fiber/LiCl/DMAc solution
      WAN hejun;YOU lixia;XIONG jie;ZHOU wenlong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  11-16. 
      Abstract ( 1222 )   PDF (351KB) ( 505 )   Save
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      For electrospinning of naturally colored cotton cellulose, rheological properties of LiCl/DMAc(Dimethyl acetamide) solutions with naturally colored cotton fibers, including the green and brown, and white cotton desolved have been investigated respectively. The experimental results showed that Non-Newtonian index of the brown cotton / LiCl/DMAc solution is the highest, closest to 1, and the Non-Newtonian indexes of all three fiber / LiCl/DMAc solutions increase with the increase of solution temperature and decrease with the increase of mass concentration. The rheological property remains relatively stable when the solution temperature is above 30℃ for the brown, and above 35℃ for the green. When the mass concentration is below 1.2% for the brown and 1.1% for the green, the solutions have stable Non-Newtonian index. The electrospinning experiment of the brown cotton demonstrated that a stable jet can be formed only when the mass concentration is below 1.2%,and electrospun nanofibers of a diameter less than 200nm can be obtained.

      Effect of plasma-grafting treatment on antistatic property of polyacrylonitrile fiber
      LIU Yanchun;BAI Gang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  17-20. 
      Abstract ( 1267 )   PDF (379KB) ( 401 )   Save
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      Polyacrylonitrile fiber was grafted by atmospheric pressure dielectric barrier discharge plasma technique to improve its antistatic ability. The surface morphology and chemical composition of the fiber before and after plasma-grafting treatemnt were characterized by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and infrared spectrum analysis. The effect of plasma processing parameters on the antistatic ability was investigated. The results indicated that plasma-grafting treatment was found to introduce some quaternary ammonium groups onto the fiber surface, and to drastically improve the antistatic ability and moisture permeability. The breathability and breaking strength reduced slightly after plasma treatment.

      Effect of heat treatment on properties of PTFE drawing
      GUO Zhan-jun;CHEN Jian-yong;GUO Yu-hai;ZHANG Hua-peng;TANG Hong-yan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  21-24. 
      Abstract ( 1382 )   PDF (395KB) ( 1146 )   Save
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      One-way stretching PTFE(polytetrafluoroethylene)membrane which had been subjected to film-splitting was used as starting material for preparing high-tenacity PTFE filaments, the film-splitting process was adopted for manufacturing the filaments under proper tension, heat treatment including different temperatures and treatting durals, twisting, hot drawing and heat setting. The surface morphology of the resulting filaments was observed by SEM, the melting temperature and crystallinity were tested by differential scanning calorimeter, and mechanical properties were tested by single fiber tensile instrument. The results showed that the lower crystallinity of the filaments caused by heat-treatment led to great improvement of the elongation at break, thus enhancing the drawing ratio. Appropriate heat treatment before making PTFE filament with fiber-splitting method,therefore,is conducive to processing PTFE into sewing threads with high-tenacity and good fineness.

      Research on charge storage properties of polypropylene fiber electret filter
      TIAN Tao;WU Jing-hui;HAO Li-mei;LIN Song;YANG Jing-quan;
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  25-28. 
      Abstract ( 1149 )   PDF (118KB) ( 885 )   Save
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      The electret filters made of polypropylene(PP) fiber were prepared by means of corona charging method. The effects of charging voltage, charging time, distance between electrodes as well as ambient humidity on the charge storage properties of PP fiber electret filter were evaluated, and the contributory degree of each factor was analyzed by orthogonal test. The results show that it is feasible to prepare PP fiber electret filter by using such corona charging method. The surface voltage increases with the charging voltage and charging time, but decreases with the ambient humidity and distance between electrodes. Retention ratio of surface voltage decreases with the increase of ambient humidity. Charging voltage has the significant influence on surface voltage, followed by the ambient humidity, Charging time and distance between electrodes have the least effect. The optimum conditions are charging time of 30 min, distance between electrodes of 8mm; charging voltage of 10kV, and ambient humidity of 35%.

      纺织工程
      Analyzing the principle of high-efficiency and shortened-process embedded spinning technology
      XU Weilin;XIA Zhigang;;DING Cailing;CUI Weigang;SUN Runjun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  29-36. 
      Abstract ( 1306 )   PDF (569KB) ( 1197 )   Save
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      In order to develop new spinning methods, this paper addresses a novel spinning method—Embedding & System Locating Spinning Technology (ESLS) in terms of the principle, necessity, feasibility and advantages. The ESLS system shows its uniqueness, which needs less and shorter fibers to perform spinning on a spinning frame, reduces broken ends, improves yarn hairiness, and raised fiber use rate. Meanwhile, it has such functions as producing high count yarns and composite yarns with low quality materials, enriching the varieties of yarn.

      Fabric weave design based on swift operation and interative operation of weave matrix
      XIE Baozhu;ZHANG Yu;JIN Yao ;YANG Tingting
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  37-42. 
      Abstract ( 1053 )   PDF (2054KB) ( 376 )   Save
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      For realizing digital design of fabric weave,this paper proposes a new method of fabric weave design by defining weave matrix and its rules of swift operation and interative operation. According to the requirement of fabric weave design,it takes original weaves and match weaves as research objects. On the basis of definitions,it does swift operation and interative operation on match weaves, sets up the relationship of original weave matrix and match weave matrix when doing interative operation. Combined with computer experiments, it carries out a discussion as how the factors affect texture of fabircs when doing swift operation and interative operation, foucusing on basic rules, such as operation methods, move number of original weaves, move number of match weaves,swift directions and swift parameter. It showed that using the method of swift operation and interative operation of weave matrix as fabric weave digital design means can be used for reference.

      Automatic identification of woven fabric weave
      PAN Ruru;GAO Weidong;LIU Jihong;WANG Hongbo
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  43-47. 
      Abstract ( 1207 )   PDF (650KB) ( 460 )   Save
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      To realize automatic identification of woven fabric weave, the reflection image of woven fabric is pre-processed by skew rectification and histogram equalization. Then the interlacing points are located in the image by the warp and weft gray projection curves. The warp and weft repeats are found according to the correlation of the interlacing points in warp and weft directions. The types of interlacing points are judged by comparing the average gray value of interlacing point in a weave repeat, and the results are examined with the gray variance of the interlacing points. Finally,the accuracy of identification is further improved by comparing the recognized results in several weave repeats. The experiment for actual fabrics shows that the algorithm can identify the three basic weaves correctly and output the diagram of the identified fabric weave.

      Studies on fabric weave representation by group theory
      JIN Yao ;ZHANG Yu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  48-51. 
      Abstract ( 1012 )   PDF (143KB) ( 442 )   Save
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      This paper introduces group into fabric weave and proposes a new fabric weave representation method by group theory. Firstly, on the basis of set theory and mapping relationship between the set of weft serial orders and the set of warp float serial orders, it utilizes permutation to define fabric weave, and builds its mathematical model. Secondly, it takes weaves with the same weft repeat as the main object investigated, classifies them into weave Ι and weave П, and defines composite operator between these two types of weaves. Then it investigates the group structure and relative operations of the corresponding type of weaves under the operator defined. Finally, it discusses the method of fabric weave representation with some examples. The method explores a new digital way to represent fabric weave consequently.

      Heading-ball method for evaluating fabric formability
      CHEN Shaojuan;;MA Jianwei;CAO Nannan;QIU Guanxiong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  52-57. 
      Abstract ( 1043 )   PDF (705KB) ( 354 )   Save
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      For effective selection of lining and substrate of composite material for clothing, luggages and bags, based on an overview of current research status of fabric formability at home and abroad, a new, easy and effective heading-ball method for evaluating fabric formability is proposed. This method evaluates the formability of the fabric according to the attached state of the sample fabric on the surface of the ball and the wrinkled degree of the sample. The results showed that the acting force and displacement curve recorded by the heading-ball method is closely related to the mechanical properties and formability of the fabric, that can be used to characterize the formability of fabrics. A large number of tests indicated that the method has good reproducibility and discrimination. The characterization method of fabric formability and factors influencing fabric formability are given. In order to effectively predict the fabric formability, this article uses finite element simulation software abaqus to simulate the headling-ball method. The acting force - displacement curves obtained are basically in aggreement with experimental values. This method provide a new thinking for the development of composite base cloth.

      Image-processing amendment of fabric moisture transfer property based on vertical wicking measurement
      JIANG Xiaoyun; ZHOU Xiaohong; WENG Ming; JIANG Yaoxing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  58-61. 
      Abstract ( 966 )   PDF (165KB) ( 439 )   Save
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      Due to the experimental precision influenced by the radial distortion of general CCD vidicon, a radial distortion amendment method of Matlab image-process based on vertical wicking measurement was proposed. In this paper, Barrel-shaped distortion was collected by self-made calibration templet when using 1/2.5′CCD, and on this basis it constructs the relationship between trim size and the distorted image pels under the practical shooting distance. This amendment method based on the experimental demand of vertical wicking measurement takes a 300 mm sized distorted image as the object which is divided equally into 1mm pitch. According to the relation between the height of the hypotenuse representing the size of the distorted image and the right angle side representing the non-distorted image size in the right triangle, it regulates the pels in the fluctuation 0.5 mm of the center axis and 1 mm in number as the non-distorted images pels. The results show that the amendment can improve the image precision of wicking height extracted by Matlab image-process.

      Method of designing knit pattern based on escape time algorithm Mandelbrot set
      CHEN Li; XIE Yuefeng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  62-65. 
      Abstract ( 956 )   PDF (532KB) ( 468 )   Save
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      To improve the design ability and develop new design idea for knit patterns, a preliminary study was carried out for fractal image creation. Taking classical Mandelbrot set as example, Visual Basic program was adopted, and the image of Mandelbrot set was created which was based on the escape time algorithm. More colorful patterns could be acquired by way of magnification, interception, rearrangement and so on. This design method of knit pattern is only elementary. With M1 pattern design system of STOLL company, the effects of knit patterns could be simulated, and different knitted fabrics could be formed by varying the stitch unit structures. This method provides rich source for knit pattern design.

      Tensile properties of carbon fiber/polyester hybrid 3-D woven composite plates
      MA Leilei;DONG Yang;TIAN Wei;LIU Lei;ZHU Chengyan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  66-70. 
      Abstract ( 1045 )   PDF (808KB) ( 460 )   Save
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      In order to obtain the relationship between fiber volume fraction and tensile fracture of carbon fiber/polyester hybrid fiber reinforced plastics (HFRP), five kinds of yarns were designed through varying the mixed ratio, and the tensile property of the resulting composites was studied. The results indicated that there is a close relationship between stretching-breaking process and tensile strength of the fiber content of reinforced fibes. The elongation at break of HFRP is increased as the content of polyester increases. The tensile strength and tensile elasticity modulus show a cubic equation relationship with the percentage content of polyester. There is an obviously hybrid effect for the sample’s tensile strength and tensile elasticity modulus.

      Preparation and performance of mulching film of nonwoven flax and silk fabric
      LIU Tao;HUANG Chen;HAN Xiaojian;XU Yunhui;WANG Hao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  71-75. 
      Abstract ( 1014 )   PDF (126KB) ( 382 )   Save
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      The mulching plastic film is hard to be degraded in the natural environment. More and more residue left in the soil brings about risks to farming and the ecology. This paper used flax and silk waste to prepare a non-woven fabric mulching film. The process parameters were optimized through orthogonal test and the performance was tested. The results showed that breaking strength of the film is 30 N, thickness is 0.1148 mm and moisture regain is 6.7% when mass ratio of flax and silk is 96:4, surface density is 35 g/m2 and concentration (mass fraction) of adhesives is 12%. This non-woven fabric film can be degraded completely in the natural environment, as shown by infrared analysis. Moreover, it has good thermal insulation and moisture conservation effects, and the nitrogen content of soil increases with degrading of the film.

      染整与化学品
      Morphology of supramolecular film of amino polysiloxane and carboxyl polysiloxane and its application properties
      WANG Kefeng;AN Qiufeng;HUANG Liang-xian;WANG Qianjin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  76-80. 
      Abstract ( 1047 )   PDF (379KB) ( 661 )   Save
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      Using N-β-aminoethyl-γ-aminopropyl polysiloxane (ASO-1) and carboxyl groups containing polysiloxane (CAS-2) as architecture units, a self-assembled supramolecular film of ASO-1/CAS-2 on the monocrystalline silicon was prepared. Its morphology and the application properties were investigated by atomic force microscope (AFM) and other instruments. Experimental results showed that the supramolecular film (ASO-1/CAS-2) showed a highly ordered, window grating-like structure. The application test indicated that when the proportion of ASO-1 increased, the softeness of the treated fabric was improved, while the whiteness and the water absorption decreased. When the ratio of ASO-1 to CAS-2 was 1∶1, the treated fabric exhibited the best softness and unique silky hand. In addition, the fabrics treated by the supramolecular ASO-1/CAS-2 based on various viscosity of ASO-1 showed almost the same whiteness and water absorption. However, the softenss was improved as the viscosity of ASO-1 increased.

      Preparation of ultrafine encapsulation pigment dispersion by free-radical sediment polymerization
      YAO Dandan; FU Shaohai
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  81-84. 
      Abstract ( 1074 )   PDF (223KB) ( 333 )   Save
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      Polymer encapsulating method was adopted for the surface modification of organic pigment with the purposes of improving the lightfastness and weather fastness of the pigment, enhancing its compatibility with the substrate, and broadening the application field of the pigment. In this study, ultrafine C.I. Pigment Yellow 13/poly-styrene-maleic acid (P.Y.13/PSMA composite) dispersion was prepared by free-radical precipitation polymerization. The effects of PSMA structure on the property of the encapsulated pigment were investigated. Experimental results revealed that the weight ratio of feeding monomers to pigment (WC/P), the molar ratio of feeding maleic acid to styrene (Mm/s) and the weight ratio of feeding initiator to monomer (Wi/c) in aqueous medium had significant influences on particle size and contact angle of the P.Y.13/PSMA composite dispersion. The optimal P.Y.13/PSMA composite dispersion was achieved when using WC/P at 24%, Mm/s at 1.0 and Wi/c at 0.8%. Flourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectra and transmission electron microscopy (TEM) demonstrated that P.Y.13 was successfully encapsulated with PSMA.

      Dyeing performance of silica sol hybridized with Direct Red 4BS
      YIN Yunjie;WANG Chaoxia
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  85-89. 
      Abstract ( 1258 )   PDF (274KB) ( 437 )   Save
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      A silica sol was prepared with TEOS, GPTMS, EtOH, H2O and HCl, and Direct Red 4BS was doped into this sol and formed a Direct Red 4BS contained hybrid silica sol. The dyeing proformance of Direct Red 4BS contained hybrid silica sol (I) was investigated and compared with that of Direct Red 4BS alone but followed by a fixing process with fixing agent (process II). The results showed that when compared with (II), (I) which used Direct Red 4BS contained hybrid silica sol containing silica sol 40%, NaCl 10g/L and baking temperature 150℃ for 5 min exhibited enhancement in K/S value by 11.1%, raised in dry and wet rubbing fastnesses by one grade respectively, and improvement in color fastnes (fading) and color fastness (staining) by half grade respectively. Compared with the untreated fabric, the fabric dyed with (I) has better breaking strength (warp-wise increased by 11.6%), better bending rigidity and bending hysteresis moment, but slightly lowered hand feeling. From SEM image, a silica film on the surface of the dyed fiber was clearly observed.

      Impurities on surface of cheese dyed polyester yarns and solution
      LIAN Zhi-jun;PAN Ju-fang;JIANG Yuan;ZHUANG Xiao-xiong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  90-94. 
      Abstract ( 1215 )   PDF (358KB) ( 498 )   Save
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      In order to solve the surface impurity problems of cheese dyed polyester yarns,experiments were conducted to analyze the effects of dyeing process, oligomer disperse auxiliary, and reductive cleaning auxiliary on the content of surface impurities of cheese dyed polyester yarns. The results indicated that most of the surface impurities of cheese dyed polyester yarns are polyester oligomers, accounting for up to 73% of the total impurities. The surface impurities of cheese dyed polyester increase with the increasing of dosage of dyestuffs, dyeing temperature and dyeing time. The additive of oligomer disperse auxiliary during dyeing process and the use of particular auxiliary during reductive cleaning can significantly reduce the surface impurities.

      Method of dyeing green color wool fabric with sodium copper chlorophyll
      Hou Xiuliang;Zhao Kuan;Zhao Guoying ;Li Zhaonan;Hu Xiaofeng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  95-99. 
      Abstract ( 1384 )   PDF (228KB) ( 597 )   Save
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      Because of rare natural dyestuffs that can dye the substrate green color, this paper investigates the properties and the dyeing method of sodium copper chlorophyll (SCC) and the color fastnesses of the dyed green wool fabrics. It is shown that the direct dyeing method, aluminum pre-mordant or after-mordant dyeing method can dye wool fabrics green with neutral SCC liquid; The maximum SCC amount is 1% (o.w.f) with the direct dyeing method, and the maximum aluminum mordant amount is 5% (o.w.f), the maxmum SCC amount is 2% (o.w.f) with aluminum mordant dyeing method. The dyed green wool fabrics have good color fastnesses to washing, perspiration, ironing and abrasion, but they have low light fastness.
      Application of polymerizable emulsifier on preparation of pigment printing binder
      DONG Jianpeng;WU Minghua;QI Dongming
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  100-105. 
      Abstract ( 1144 )   PDF (420KB) ( 585 )   Save
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      A pigment printing binder was prepared with polymerizable emulsifier. The influences of emulsifier and the mass fraction on the monomer conversion rate, polymerization coagulation rate, dissolve-loss rate and mechanical properties of latex film, and color fastness of the pigment printing binder were studied. It was found that compounding the polymerizable emulsifier with traditional emulsifier can improve the polymerization stability. The bonding of polymerizable emulsifier to the latex particle surface can reduce the dissolve-loss rate of latex film, and improve the mechanical properties of latex film and color fastness of the pigment printed fabric. Especially when the mass fraction of polymerizable compound emulsifier was 6%, the emulsion polymerization exhibited higher monomer conversion rate and lower polymerization coagulation rate, the latex film presented lower dissolve-loss rate and higher fracture work, and the pigment printed fabric had excellent color fastness. It is considered that polymerizable compound emulsifier is an ideal option for preparation of non-APEO emulsifier for pigment printing binder.

      Micro-stretching improvement of fabrics finished by shape memory polymer
      LIU Xiaoxia
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  106-109. 
      Abstract ( 877 )   PDF (124KB) ( 342 )   Save
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      weft strength of cotton fabrics after and before shape memory finishing was improved by two means of micro-stretching, i. e., stretch-stop and cyclic stretch (cyclic tension loads). Experimental results showed that the breaking strength of fabric can be enhanced when stretch-stop or cyclic stretch is applied to it under a certain stretching rate. The higher the stretching rate, the shorter the pause time needed for reaching the maximum breaking strength, and the less the cyclic times. Two-factor five-level orthogonal test method was used to test the strength of fabrics by stretch-stop, and the tensile parameters and strength improvement were analyzed. The results showed that for the unfinished fabrics, the maximum breaking strength (enhanced by 31.9%) was obtained by using stretch-stop with stretching rate of 4% and then pause for 3 minutes, while in the case of finished fabrics, with the same stretching rate the maximum breaking strength (enhanced by 42.1%) was obtained at a pause of 2 minutes.

      服装工程
      Visual expansion as brought about by pleated effect of clothing
      SHI Jing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  110-113. 
      Abstract ( 962 )   PDF (511KB) ( 700 )   Save
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      This article addressed the correlation between the designed pleats and visual expansion, including the principle and based elements, i.e. , intuitive recognition of edge lines of pleats. The relation between pleat location and visual expansion was illustrated by clothing design cases. It was assumed that rational design of pleat location facilitates visual expansion. The methods and concepts as how to handle the relationship between pleat forms and locations and visual expansion were discussed.

      Correlation between sculpt of tiered skirts and fabric performances
      LIU Chengxia;HU Qiong;SUN Limin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  114-119. 
      Abstract ( 999 )   PDF (271KB) ( 446 )   Save
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      In order to find out the relation between the sculpt of tiered skirts and performances of fabric, nine common fabrics were chosen. FAST instrument was used to test the mechanical properties of the fabrics and then made into tiered skirts with the same pattern. Professionals were invited to evaluate the skirts sculpt. Digital camera was used to take photos of the skirts from different angles, and the photos were processed with Photoshop to get their different pixel areas, parameters of ham cuve and gathering width. Finally, the data were processed with correlation and clustering analysis. The research findings indicated that the objective evaluation parameters closely related with subjective evaluation score are shown in the following order: pixel area of 45°between front and side position, difference of the two gathering width, average distance of wave peak and trough. The performances influencing the sculpt of tiered skirts are in the following order: bending rigidity, drapability, shearing rigidity. The tiered skirts made of soft and flexible fabrics with good drapability takes on the shape of H, which have more small waves than those made of rigid fabrics.

      机械与器材
      Test and analysis of airflow state in reed groove of air jet looms
      ZHU Zhangchen;HUANG Furong;ZHOU Jiyong;XUE Wenliang;CHEN Ge
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  120-124. 
      Abstract ( 1085 )   PDF (183KB) ( 412 )   Save
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      The air speed in reed groove is tested to analyze the influence of process parameters on the airflow field in reed groove. The relation between air speed and spray length of auxiliary nozzle, spray angle of auxillary nozzle or supply pressure of auxilliary nozzle is investigated. In this article, the pitot tube is applied to test the air speed in reed groove by an instrument designed by the researchers themselves. At the same time, the change of air speed with the supply pressure is also studied. The results indicated that the air speed in reed groove fluctuates drastically and periodically with the distance of auxiliary nozzles. When the supply pressure is too low, the air speed in reed groove could not satisfy the weft insertion requirement. In the same section of reed groove, velocity varies with testing positions and so does the force acting upon the weft.

      Data transform control of electronic jacquard
      SHEN Wei;HU Hongbo;YUAN Yanhong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  125-128. 
      Abstract ( 914 )   PDF (123KB) ( 358 )   Save
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      The goal of this study is to simplify the development and maintenance of the control process of electronic jacquard, and satisfy quick response of customers’ requirement on changing varieties of woven fabric. The relation between the selection transform and the mounting transform in the control process has been analyzed by using matrix transform theory, and it is found that the maxtrixes of the two transforms are of mutually transposed ones. Based on this conclusion, a new method of control processing implementation form jacquard mounting is presented. XML technology is used to describe the transform matrix, and the algorithm which automatically generates data transform matrix based on the mounting information user defined is given, and two practical problems of un-full needle usage and multi-channel are also solved. The solution makes it possible that the jacquard control system is independent of the hardware architecture or mounting of electronic jacquard machines.

      Design of fabric guide line tracker based on position sensitive detector
      YANG Deliang;;WEI Yanding;ZHOU Guanxiong;;CAO Zhenbo;
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  129-133. 
      Abstract ( 1188 )   PDF (152KB) ( 463 )   Save
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      For achieving tubular fabric guide line automatic tracking identification, a fabric guide line tracker based on position sensitive detector (PSD) was designed. The structure of the system and tracking principle were introduced. The overall system program and working principle were illustrated with focuses on system light source, preamplifier circuit and A/D conversional circuit. In order to improve the precision and stability of the system, in the course of PSD signal processing, software algorithms was used instead of the traditional arithmetic processing circuit. The fabric guide line tracking experiment was carried out in platform-driven CNC. The results showed that the position accuracy of the system is less than ±1.5 mm, which meets the location accuracy requirement on fabric cutting.

      Advanced deviation correcting system of fabric strips based on repetitive control
      CHEN Dechuan;PENG Qinghai
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  134-138. 
      Abstract ( 939 )   PDF (160KB) ( 492 )   Save
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      In the fabric strip production process, a periodical S-shape deviation of the strip often occurred. Focusing on this issue, through analyzing the mathematical model of the strip unwinding web guiding system, and according to the good performance of the repetitive control in tracking periodic signal, this paper presents an advanced deviation correcting system based on adaptive repetitive control and feedforward control. The composition and working principle of the system are advanced. The design method of deviation correcting algorithm is introduced. The MatLab simulation results have verified its advantages in correcting the periodical S-shape deviation. In addition, this paper introduces the realization of the embedded repetitive deviation controller with MCF52235 chip as its core. This system also can be applied in the intermediate and rewinding web guiding system.

      Numerical analysis of three-dimensional flow field inside drilled-chamber of hydroentangling machine
      WANG Xiangqin; JIN Xiangyu;KE Qinfei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  139-144. 
      Abstract ( 1000 )   PDF (914KB) ( 444 )   Save
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      The effects of chamber structure parameters on the three-dimensional flow performances of high pressure drilled-chamber of hydroentangling machine are investigated by numerical analysis method. The results show that the distribute hole diameter (d1), balance bar diameter (d2) and outflow slot height have significant effect on outflow velocity in cross-direction, average outflow velocity and static pressure. According to the results, it is concluded that d1=4 mm and d2=30 mm are the critical values of distribute hole diameter and balance bar diameter respectively. There might be backflow in the outflow surface when d1 is smaller than 4mm or d2 is larger than 30 mm. The proper value for the distribute diameter (d1) is ranging from 6 mm to 10 mm. The proper value for the balance bar diameter is in a range from 25 mm to 30 mm, and the proper value for outflow slot height is 40 mm.

      管理与信息化
      Discussion on planning and construction of clothing creative industry park
      YANG Yixiong;LIU Jun; LI Chunying
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  145-149. 
      Abstract ( 998 )   PDF (295KB) ( 487 )   Save
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      This paper aims at providing some guidances for the planning and construction of clothing creative industry park ( CCIP) so as to develop the clothing creative industry of China. Having given the definition of CCIP, a model of CCIP has been developed via Hall three dimensions structure in system engineering and assumptions are proposed. Key factors and solutions in each phase of planning and construction of CCIP are investigated by spot research and questionnaire. The results show that the importance, difficulty and effectiveness of specific method are different in each phase of planning and construction of CCIP. According to three dimensions structure, planning and construction of CCIP may be divided into seven phases by time, which provides a new way of thinking and an effective management tool for the planning and construction of CCIP.

      Performance measurement of order implementation for apparel MC enterprises
      LUO Hao;LI Renwang;ZHU Zefei ;WU Dichong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(6):  150-154. 
      Abstract ( 983 )   PDF (241KB) ( 378 )   Save
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      In order to promote apparel enterprises to carry out Mass Customization (MC) effectively, this paper combines the production process information with performance measurement in the new field of order implementation performance measurement for apparel MC enterprises. A related math model was put forward based on the analysis of each phase of apparel making. According to this method, order tracing and evaluation of customers satisfaction are undertaken in terms of product manufacture and after-sale service, timely feeding back the related information obtained. In doing so, the enterprise will be able to discover problem timely and make remedy, implement order smoothly and keep on perfecting order form. The rationality and feasibility of the method is illustrated.