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Table of Content

    15 April 2010, Volume 31 Issue 4
    • 纤维材料
      Preparation and performances of photocatalysed titanium dioxide thin film deposited on polyacrylonitile based carbon fiber
      Yaofeng Zhu;Yanjie Ding;FU Ya-Qin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  1-6. 
      Abstract ( 1134 )   PDF (999KB) ( 311 )   Save
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      Photocatalysed titanium dioxide (TiO2) thin film was prepared and deposited on polyacrylonitile based carbon fiber (PAN-CF) substrates with tetrabutyl titanate as precursor through a facile sol-gel dip coating technique. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and X-ray diffraction (XRD) were utilized to investigate the morphologies and structures of the photocatalysed TiO2/CF film. The load fastness of TiO2 on CF was evaluated by ultrasonic vibration method and the photocatalytic properties of TiO2/CF film were investigated by degrading acid orange Ⅱ (80mg/L) under UV irradiation. The results suggest that the concentration of the sol have significant effects on the morphologies and structures of TiO2/CF film, the load rate of TiO2 and load fastness. It is also shown that the catalytic activity of TiO2/CF film was remarkably influenced by concentrations of the sol and annealing temperature. As the results indicated, the TiO2/CF prepared from the Ti sol with concentration of 0.5 mol/L displayed better load fastness, higher load rate and excellent catalytic performance.

      Film forming performance and application of supramolecule ASO-1/CPES
      AN Qiufeng;LI Xianqi;WANG Qianjin;WANG Kefeng; HANG Liangxian
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  7-10. 
      Abstract ( 1220 )   PDF (715KB) ( 399 )   Save
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      Based on the architecture units of N-β-aminoethyl-γ-aminopropyl polydimethylsiloxane (ASO-1) and carboxyl modified polyether-b-polydimethylsiloxane (CPES), ASO-1/CPES supramolecular film was formed on the surface of cotton fabric. The film forming performance and application were studied. Field emission scanning electron microscope (FESEM) investigation showed that the fabric surface anchored with ASO-1/CPES supramolecular film was much smoother than that of the control sample. Compared with the fabric treated with ASO-1 alone, the fabric with supramolecular film has better softeness, whiteness and hydrophilicity. In addition, when the mass ratio of ASO-1 to CPES was 1:2, the treated fabric showed the optimum softness and certain hydrophilicity without affecting its whiteness, demonstrating the best comprehensive applicational performance. Besides, the suitable viscosity and amino value of ASO-1 for the suparmolecular assembly was 3650 mPa•S and 0.9mmol/g, respectively.

      Research on species and ageing of unearthed silk fibers from Yingpan of Xinjiang
      GUO Danhua; WU Ziying; LIU Jian; ZHOU Yang; LI Wenying
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  11-14. 
      Abstract ( 1100 )   PDF (1396KB) ( 336 )   Save
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      Yingpan is the key location on the Silk Road in Xinjiang, and the archaeologists discovered a large number of textiles in several burial sites dating from Han-Jin period. Studies on archaeological silk fibers including species identification and proteins degradation are carried on with optical microscope, FTIR, XRD and thermal analysis techniques. It is shown that the silk fibers from Yingpan are mostly bombyx mori silk and bombyx mandarina. Furthermore, the results suggest that the polymerization and thermal decomposition temperature of archaeological silk decreased since the textile suffered from long-range biodegradation and hydrolysis.

      Identification of wool and cashmere based on characteristics of spectral line
      Jiang GaoPing;ZHONG Yueqi;WANG Rongwu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  15-19. 
      Abstract ( 1089 )   PDF (696KB) ( 259 )   Save
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      For rapid identification and inspection of wool and cashmere, this paper suggests an identifacation method based on the characteristics of spectral line. First, the images of wool and cashmere are taken using optical microscope. Secondly, the surface information of the wool and cashmere is obtained from the images by image processing. Thirdly, the spectral lines of the wool and cashmere are extracted by a local projection method with feature segmentation. The features of each spectral line such as unit width, unit peak value and coefficient of discretion, and peak width are extracted according to the different characteristics of the surface. We finally differentiate wool and cashmere based on the analysis of the features of these spectral lines. Experimental results demonstrate that this method works quickly and effectively which has remarkable advantages in comparison with the previous methods.

      Synthesis of Gemini surfactant with waste polyester
      YU Tianshi;GUO Xinxin;QIU Hua;GE Mingqiao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  20-24. 
      Abstract ( 1003 )   PDF (599KB) ( 315 )   Save
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      A biquaternaryammonium salt surfactant with ester bond was synthesized using waste polyester, ethylene glycol, chlorinated sulfoxide and N, N-demethyldodecylamine. The optimum reaction conditions obtained by orthogonal experiment are as follows: n(intermediate): n (N,N-demethyldodecylamine)=1:2.1, reacting at 57 ℃ for 12 h. The product structures were characterized by IR and color reaction. The surface tension, melting point, foaming and solving properties of the product were tested. It was found that its critical micelle concentration value is 1.47×10-4mol/L and the surface tension value is 28.56 mN/m, The surface activity is obviously lower than that of commonly used commercial surfactants.

      Influence of nano-TiO2 on crystallization kinetics of polyester
      CHEN Haizhen
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  25-29. 
      Abstract ( 1283 )   PDF (592KB) ( 392 )   Save
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      Polyester was synthesized with nano-TiO2 particles modified with titanium tetrabutoxid. It is found that the dyeing rate has increased three. TEM and DSC were used to analyze this phenomenon. It is shown that nano-TiO2 well dispersed in polyester and the glass transiton temperature was increased, indicating well compatibility between surface modified particles and polyester. The Avrami theories, Jeziorny theories and Kissinger method were adopted to further analyze the non-isothermal crystallization, and the results showed that nano- TiO2 remardably reduce the crystallization active energy of polyester and improve the crack crystalline growth velocity. The nano particles could be as crystalline nucleation to drive crystallization from homogenous to heterogeneous. The experiments revealed that the crystallization of polyester was changed with nano- TiO2, promoting dyestuff adsorbing and rising in thermal properties.

      Hydrophilic modification of PP nonwoven fabric by cold plasma
      TANG Lihua;REN Wanting; LI Xin;WANG Rongmin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  30-34. 
      Abstract ( 1279 )   PDF (956KB) ( 609 )   Save
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      Polypropylene (PP) nonwoven fabric (NWF) was treated by atmospheric pressure dielectric barrier (APDBD) plasma and low pressure glow discharge (LPGD) plasma, respectively. The influence of plasma gas, pressure, discharge frequency, discharge voltage, treatment time and the physical structure of PP NWF on the hydrophilicity improvement was studied. Fourier-transform infrared-attenuated total reflection (FTIR-ATR) spectroscopy was employed to analyze chemical structure changes on the sample surface. Water absorption ratio and rate were used to evaluate hydrophilicity modification effect. It was found that oxygen plasma could give a better treatment effect than argon plasma. Either increasing of discharge frequency or treatment time can both improve the hydrophilicity. Larger specific surface area and smaller density of the sample could lead to higher water absorption capability.

      纺织工程
      Property testing and classification of bamboo fiber yarns with different structures
      GENG Yanlei;CUI Yunhua;CHENG Longdi;HUANG Shuyun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  35-38. 
      Abstract ( 1126 )   PDF (457KB) ( 271 )   Save
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      To study the properties and applicability of different structural bamboo fiber yarns, the tensile strength, hairiness, evenness, twist and abrasion resistance of the yarns were tested. The principal component analysis based on the properties obtained was used to review the applicability, and the rankings of three principal components and the comprehensive principal components were given. The results showed that ring spun bamboo fiber yarns appropriate for the products which require a high strength without a very good appearance. Comprehensive properties of bamboo fiber compact yarn are the best. Bamboo fiber sirospun yarns have nice appearance. New types of bamboo fiber yarns may be used for designing fabrics with special styles.

      Simulation on accelerating of floating fibers based on distribution of fiber length
      SU Yuheng;CHEN Lina
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  39-44. 
      Abstract ( 1066 )   PDF (800KB) ( 420 )   Save
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      This paper established a density function of the fiber length distribution using nonparametric kernel estimation method, and fiber distribution in the drafting zone was random formed. The longitudinal friction force zone distribution function of the JF type double short apron drafting system was obtained by the least square polynomial fitting. According to the mathematical model of floating fiber motion, the accelerated point distribution histograms of the JF type double short apron drafting system in the equal length fibers even distribution and kernel density estimation were simulated by computer, respectively. The results indicated that the accelerating point of the fibers obeying equal length distribution highly concentrated on the front nip. The fibers obeying kernel estimation density function length distribution was discrete and nearly normal distribution, showing that the fibers were possible to change the speed when it got away from the nip. The simulated result based on kernel density estimation of the fiber length, therefore, was more close to the actual situation. This method can be used in the optimization and forecast of the actual drafting processing and mechanism.

      Realization of mathematical model for Leno color effect
      ZHANG Rui;ZHAN Xin;TIAN Wei;ZHU Chengyan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  45-49. 
      Abstract ( 1017 )   PDF (867KB) ( 363 )   Save
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      In order to achieve the CAD for the leno color effect, this paper analyzed the forming principle of leno color effect firstly. It shows that the appearance of the color effect is not only changed by weave diagram and the order of colored warp and weft, but also by leno heddle lifting plan. So during the modeling process, the leno color effect is divided into weave diagram, order diagram of the colored warp, order diagram of the colored weft and leno heddle draft. The corresponding matrixes are set up. At the same time, using the Kronecker-product algorithms, we propose a mathematical model for the ordinary weave color effect. On the basis of the above works, the mathematical model for the leno color effect was established. Then we demonstrate the correctness of this model. This model provides a theoretical reference for the CAD system of leno weave.

      Relationship between capillary size distribution, textile weave and fiber content in woven fabrics
      DI Jianfeng;DU Wenqin;QI Hongjin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  50-54. 
      Abstract ( 1316 )   PDF (1448KB) ( 419 )   Save
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      The wicking property of fabric can be controled by changing weave structure because of the effect of weave structure and fiber content on capillary size and its distribution. Employing the weight classification method, the pore size distribution of five woven cotton and polyester/cotton fabrics with different weaves was determined respectively. The effect of yarn density, warp density,weft density and fiber content on pore size distribution curve was investigated. The results showed that all the pore size distribution curves consist of four regions. With the decreas of the yarn density, the pore size region is extended with slight increase in the small pore size, significant increase in the big one, and considerable decrease in the amount of the maximum ratio pore size. Decreasing the warp density and weft density, the compression and merger of some typical regions occur, and pore size distribution tends to be more simple and uniform. Fiber content has little effect on the characteristic shape of the pore size distribution curve, except that slight compressed-extended deformation exhibits in some different regions.

      Detection of fabric defects based on Gabor filter
      YANG Xiaobo
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  55-59. 
      Abstract ( 1100 )   PDF (1437KB) ( 403 )   Save
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      The enhanced principle of defective edge based on Gabor filter is narrated from the texture model of defective fabrics. The self-adaptive Gabor filter is designed according to fabric features which determine the central frequency of Gabor filter. Then, the designed Gabor filter is applied to enhance fabric defects with directional aberration and the defective edges test of the fabric is finished through threshold value processing. The experimental results show that self-adaptive Gabor filter of fabric well enhance the edge of directional aberration defect, which can make prominent the energy of fabric texture while restraining the energy of defective texture. The maximum test of this method can achieve 7 m/min.

      Clustering Research of fabric deformation comfort using bi-swarm PSO algorithm
      WANG Yonglin;WANG Dongyun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  60-64. 
      Abstract ( 1064 )   PDF (620KB) ( 421 )   Save
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      Aiming at solving the problems of some traditional cluster methods, an improved cluster method based on bi-swarm particle swarm optimization (PSO) algorithm with exchanging particles strategy was proposed. One swarm dynamically updated its inertia weight by a new nonlinear updating formula, and the other employed a constant inertia weight. The two swarms exchanged some particles after each iteration. The method was applied to the cluster of fabric deformation comfort and took the cluster center as the position of the particle. The optimal cluster center was obtained by PSO algorithm optimizing and the sample data were clustered using minimum distance criterion. The comparison results between cluster and PSO-based cluster show that the proposed method can get the proper cluster result and provides a new approach to clothing fabrics selection and evaluation.

      Development of whisk broom fiber reinforced composites
      LIU LiYan;GAO Yan;WANG Rui
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  65-68. 
      Abstract ( 1064 )   PDF (648KB) ( 536 )   Save
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      To develop whisk broom fiber reinforced composites, the parameters of the fiber such as chemical composition, length and width, strength, and length-width ratio were tested. It reveals that the chemical composition of whisk broom fiber is similar to that of bamboo fiber. The whisk broom fibers obtained by optimized process are suitable for reinforcing material. Whisk broom fiber reinforced PP laminate manufactured with PP staple fiber as substrate through hot-pressing process has force bearing ability as tested in its tensile and bending properties. Its mechanical properties in lengthwise are superior to those in transverse. Tensile and bending properties are improved with the increase of whisk broom fiber’s weight in the composite.

      染整与化学品
      Application of polyvinyl alcohol-degrading enzyme on cotton fabric sized by polyvinyl alcohol
      LIU Hongyu;HU Tingli;LI Rong;YAN Kelu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  69-73. 
      Abstract ( 1197 )   PDF (599KB) ( 426 )   Save
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      PVA-degrading enzyme was used in the desizing of cotton fabric to solve the difficult degradation problem of polyvinyl alcohol, which can effectively decompose the PVA on fabrics and greatly reduce the cost of wastewater treatment. The paper mainly studied the nature of PVA-degrading enzyme according to enzyme activity, and applied it to desizing of the cotton sized with polyvinyl alcohol. The results demonstrated the suitable conditions are pH=7-8,T=30℃ and t=3 h. PVA can be degraded by PVA-degrading enzyme. When PVA-degrading enzyme was applied to desizing, the total amount of PVA in the slurry plus residual PVA on cotton should be less than 100%, while it makes little difference in the total amount of PVA when buffer and hot water desizing is adopted.

      Relationship between structure of light stabilizer and light fastness of Disperse Red TR-16 on cotton
      SU Dan;GONG Yan;WANG Hongfeng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  74-78. 
      Abstract ( 933 )   PDF (693KB) ( 356 )   Save
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      In order to study the relationship between light stabilizer’s structure and the light fastness of Disperse Red TR-16 on cotton, 12 light stabilizers of four main categories were selected to treat the cotton fabric which had been dyed with Disperse Red TR-16. The light fastness of the samples was compared. The UV absorption spectra of the light stabilizers and Disperse Red TR-16 as well as the UV transmittance of the dyed cotton fabric before and after illumination were measured. The results showed that good light stabilizer has the following characteristics: maximum UV absorption covering the UV absorption band of Disperse Red TR-16, parallel surface formed with the fibre, well covering the dye molecules, strong intermolecular bonding with the dye molecules, improving the distribution stability of the UV absorber.

      Influence of cationic surfactants on level-dyeing property of acrylic fiber
      GONG Lifang;NI Renjie;HUANG Yu;YAO Cheng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  79-82. 
      Abstract ( 983 )   PDF (464KB) ( 406 )   Save
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      Different cationic surfactants with special structure were used as additives in order to improve the level-dyeing property of the acrylic fiber. The level-dyeing property of N,N-bis(dimethyl tetradecyl)-3-oxa-1,5-penta diammonium bromide was used as dyeing additive for cationic dyestuff on the acrylic fiber. The results show that the level-dyeing property of bis-quaternary ammonium salt was better than that of tradional cationic surfactant 1227 or 1631 on acrylic fiber. Moreover, the level-dyeing property of bis-quaternary ammonium salt was the optimum when the concentration was from 1.5×10-5 to 2×10-5 mol/L. The influence of these levelling agents on K/S value was as follows: bis-quaternary ammonium salt > levelling agent 1631 > levelling agent 1227, and so with the order in terms of level-dyeing property for acrylic fiber.

      Application of low temperture sol polyurethane modified by APTES on wool fabrics
      HU Yi;YAN Kelu;LIU Jinqiang;TAN Jian
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  83-87. 
      Abstract ( 1231 )   PDF (1608KB) ( 267 )   Save
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      A low temperature sol polyurethane anti-felting agent modified with 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES) was synthesized for wool as to reduce yellowing and impairment of fabric strength caused by high temperature curing when using traditional sol-gel method. Firstly a prepolymer with isocyanate group (—NCO) achieved from the reaction of isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI) with poly (propylene oxide dual) (PPD), and then blocked by 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane to form a new precursor PPD-[Si(OEt)3]2. After that,a sol was prepared for anti-felting agent. Inorganic-organic hybrid film formed by the sol and its thermal property were characterized by FTIR and TGA. The sol agent was used to treat wool fabric samples at different curing temperature (120, 140,160oC),and their anti-felting effects were compared. The results show that a better anti-felting effect is achieved by the new agent with low curing temperature at 120oC for 3 min,and the area dimensional change is less than 3%.

      Synthesis of reactive quaternary ammonium salt of chitosan and its application on antibacterial finishing of tussah silk
      LU Yan-Hua;LIU Zhimei;LIN Jie
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  88-92. 
      Abstract ( 1389 )   PDF (660KB) ( 577 )   Save
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      2-hydroxypropyltrimethyl ammonium chlorid chitosan (quaternary ammonium salt of chitosan) was synthesized using chitosan and 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride in order to increase the water solubility of chitosan and enhance the bonding between chitosan and fibers. The quaternary ammonium salt of chitosan was then reacted with N-(hydroxymethyl)-acrylamide, and the O-methyl acrylamide quaternary ammonium salt of chitosan (reactive quaternary ammonium salt of chitosan) with reactive bonds and solubility was synthesized. FTIR was used to characterize the structure of the quaternary ammonium salt of chitosan, the reactive quaternary ammonium salt of chitosan and tussah silk before and after finishing. The antibacterial activity of tussah silk fabric treated with the reactive quaternary ammonium salt of chitosan was also studied. The results indicated that the bacterial reduction against S. aureus and E. coli of the finished tussah silk fabric was more than 90% even after 20 launderings.

      Compound finishing of cotton fabrics with aloe and sericin
      WU Weiwei;YU Jia;JIN Jianping;TE Yanyan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  93-97. 
      Abstract ( 1071 )   PDF (905KB) ( 278 )   Save
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      Cotton fabric has such drawbacks as low antibacterial and low anti -ultraviolet properties. For this reason, aloe and sericin solution was used to treat the cotton fabric by impregnation process, followed by double-dip-double-nip fixation with adhesive. The optimum lab finishing conditions were obtained by orthogonal experiment. The existence of aloe and sericin on the treated cotton fabric was confirmed by SEM and infrared spectroscopy, and the serviceability of the cotton fabric before and after treatment was tested. The results show that after compound finishing, the antibacterial and anti-ultraviolet properties of the cotton fabric are greatly enhanced, and its serviceability is also improved, thus raising the quality of cotton fabrics.

      Effect of softening finishing on properties of hemp fibers
      Zhang Jinqiu;ZHANG Jianchun;WANG Shanyuan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  98-102. 
      Abstract ( 1085 )   PDF (600KB) ( 377 )   Save
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      For improving the softness and spinnability of the hemp fiber, softening finishing of the hemp fiber with different degumming processes was performed before combing. The mechanical properties of the combed hemp fiber before and after softening finishing were investigated. The results indicated that the breaking strength, breaking elongation, as well as moisture regain of the treated hemp fiber were enhanced, in particular, to the hemp fiber which had been subjected to mild degumming. The bending rigidity and friction factor of the treated hemp fiber were decreased as compared with those of the untreated. However, if the hemp fiber had been subjected to mild degumming, its friction factor exhibited slightly decreas. It is shown form the above facts that softening finishing facilitates the improvement of the spinnability of the hemp fiber.

      服装工程
      Sectional design of sports bra based on comfortability
      WU Zhiming;WANG Meili
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  103-108. 
      Abstract ( 1111 )   PDF (1034KB) ( 590 )   Save
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      This study selected 10 kinds of knitted fabric commonly used for sports bras, and basic parameters of the fabrics including structure, thermal-wet comfortability, and elasticity were tested, along with analysis of their thermal-wet comfortability and pressure comfortability. According to the sweating situation of typical parts of women during engaged in moderate-intensity sports as well as pressure comfortability desired, sectional design is carried out for the typical parts such as chest, shoulder, lower chest and back, and different structures and fabrics are selected for individual section in designing. The experiment proved that this design method can effectively improve the all-round thermal-wet and pressure comfortability of the sports bra.

      Analysis on traditional moral and modern language of Chinese clothing design
      AN Ni;ZHOU Li
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  109-112. 
      Abstract ( 1379 )   PDF (616KB) ( 413 )   Save
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      Chinese clothing is a symbol of Chinese culture. In order to promote the innovation and research of Chinese clothing, the traditional and modern elements of Chinese clothing is analyzed from pattern, shape, material, cutting, decoration and color. Chinese clothing displays the eastern implication and western passion by traditional pattern and modern shape. The “meaning” and “form” of Chinese clothing are brought up by means of silk fabrics and draping craft, and nationality and fashion are expressed by the folk art and luxury modern elements. Traditional color and fashion colors make Chinese clothing look brilliant and beautiful. Chinese clothing designers should appropriately deal with the relationship between tradition and modern so as to show the national spirit and modern significance.

      机械与器材
      Development of novel cotton colorimeter based on multi-wave band sensors
      YE Wei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  113-116. 
      Abstract ( 880 )   PDF (570KB) ( 295 )   Save
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      In order study cotton color more accurately and completely, a novel cotton colorimeter based on multi-wave band sensors is presented. The instrument applies Y() sensor and Z() sensor composed of multi-wave band to measure the chromatic parameters of cotton. An algorithm for combination of multi-wave band has been presented specially for cotton color measurement and the structure of the multi-wave band sensors has been designed. Moreover, the instrument applies the 45/0 optical system and microprocessor to control the multi-channel amplifier and ADC to sample the tristimulus value of Y and Z. Finally, the Y and Z measured from the instrument can be used to compute the reflectance ratio (Rd) and yellowness (+b) through Nickerson-Hunter equation. The accuracy of the measurement results reaches ΔRd≤1(%) and Δ(+b)≤0.5 when measuring the standard cotton from USDA.

      Twist Propagation Analysis of Compact Yarn in Compact Spinning with Pneumatic Groove
      LIU ShiRui;HUA Zhihong;CHENG Longdi
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  117-120. 
      Abstract ( 1181 )   PDF (497KB) ( 308 )   Save
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      To further study the compact spinning system with pneumatic groove and improve the yarn quality, the twist propagation of compact spinning system with pneumatic groove and the construction features of the compact spinning system are analyzed. The change of spinning tension in infinitesimal radian is analyzed in the twist propagation, and the equations of spinning tension are also given. The moment of resistance to twist and the moment of torsion in process of twist propagation are analyzed. Results from this research confirmed that the spinning tension and the negative pressure in air suction pipe as well as related structure parameters of the pneumatic groove roller affect the twist propagation. For a designed compact spinning system, the negative pressure in air suction pipe and the spinning tension are adjusted for meeting the change of the compact yarn properties.

      Impact of auxiliary nozzles pitch change on flying situation of weft yarn
      CHEN Xueshan;ZHU Chengyan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  121-123. 
      Abstract ( 1110 )   PDF (739KB) ( 329 )   Save
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      For better understanding the flying situation of weft yarn during air-jet weft insertion and minimize the fluctuation of weft yarns, an air index tester consisting of the main components of weft insertion system and a high speed camera system was adopted,and the weft yarn flying actual situation in the unconventional shaped reed was filmed and analyzed with a dedicated image software. The variation of the weft flying speed and the fluctuation of the flying weft yarn in the reed slit were tested when the assistant nozzles pitch was changed. It was found that when the assistant nozzles pitch was 65 mm,more stable and less fluctuated flying of the weft yarn was observed as compared with the assistant nozzles pitch of 75 mm和85 mm.

      Numerical simulation of flow field in main nozzle of air jet loom
      XUE Wenliang;WEI Mengyuan;CHEN Ge;CHENG Longdi
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  124-127. 
      Abstract ( 1276 )   PDF (519KB) ( 367 )   Save
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      Due to the complicated structure and high accuracy of the main nozzle, its air field characteristics can not be tested directly, so the numerical simulation is applied in this paper. The distribution of the air flow speed along axial and radial direction in the main nozzle is investigated, and flow fields under various supply pressures are also studied. The results indicate that the flow field in the main nozzle is very complicated, including the supersonic area and the backflow phenomenon, and if the supply pressure is too high, the backflow phenomenon will influence the weft insertion directly, so the supply pressure should be ensured at the range of 0.2-0.4Mpa. This study is helpful to the optimization of air jet loom weaving process.
      管理与信息化
      Human body circumference curve fitting model based on automatic measurement
      SHANG Xiaomei;LI Chen;WANG Hui
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  128-131. 
      Abstract ( 1154 )   PDF (611KB) ( 296 )   Save
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      The body contour extracted from the images of front and side body taken by digital camera is used in technology of automatic 3-D body measurement. This technology suits with business because of its low technical cost, simple and fast computing process. (The generic method is to estimate the size by analyzing the circumference of examples and getting the model constrained by the circumference’s width and thickness which is a function with curve fitting.) This paper discusses the models about the deviation and curve’s shape. The models are fitted by exponential, logarithm, quadratic polynomial and cubic polynomial functions. The models’ rationality and disadvantages are demonstrated, providing a reference to make more appropriate models for measuring body circumference.

      Information model of PLM customer requirement on costume enterprise
      CUI Jian;CAI Min;DING Xianghai
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  132-138. 
      Abstract ( 1231 )   PDF (1499KB) ( 430 )   Save
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      In order to track the customer information in PLM, the paper puts forward a multi-view informational model of customer requirement for PLM. The mechanism of mapping-relation between view models is studied based on a formalized function method. The dynamic characteristic of view information is depicted by adopting multilayer behavioral system. In the example modeling, the matrix is applied to obtain such informations as data, process, and resource of different types of customers and in different phases in PLM. On the basis of customer requirement, PLM establishes the strategy of design, manufacture, sale and call back. Finally, the theory is verified by practical examples. The result reveals that the information model of customer requirement in PLM system optimizes the resource of requirement structure in system implementation and better meets customers’ requirements.

      综合述评
      Advances and research on distribution and prediction of clothing pressure
      TAN Rui;CHEN Dongsheng;FAN Xuerong;WANG Qiang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(4):  139-144. 
      Abstract ( 976 )   PDF (653KB) ( 638 )   Save
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      Clothing pressure is an important index in evaluating clothing comfort. This paper, starting from the factors influencing clothing pressure distribution, summarized the primary research methods regarding distribution and prediction of clothing pressure at present, expounded their merits and drawbacks, pointing out that the combination of clothing performance and human body, consummating of three-dimensional body model, and development of a pressure prediction system for dynamic contact between body and clothing is the developing trend in clothing pressure study. Because of the heavy calculation work of existing clothing pressure prediction model, further efforts should be made for practical application. How to build an effective clothing pressure prediction model, combine theoretical model with actual application, reduce cost, and increase efficiency are future direction for clothing pressure study.