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Table of Content

    15 December 2010, Volume 31 Issue 12
    • 纤维材料
      Optimizing heat treatment process of PPTA fibers using uniform design
      CAO YuTong;GAO Xiang-hua;HU Zuming;LIU Zhaofeng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  1-3. 
      Abstract ( 1081 )   PDF (139KB) ( 427 )   Save
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      Poly (p-phenylene terephthalamide)(PPTA) fiber spun in our laboratory was heat-treated, and a regression model was established based on uniform design to investigate the effect of fiber tension, heat treating temperature and time on initial modulus,attempting to determine the optimal process conditions with the least possible time. A regression equation was found through computation, and its reliability was verified to be rather high by residual error analysis. Tension 0.01cN/dtex, temperature 300℃, time 78.5s, and the corresponding initial modulus 1548.6 cN/dtex were the best heat treatment conditions of PPTA fibers, that were calculated with SUMT external point optimizing method.

      Thermal degradation kinetics of polyphenylene sulfide fibers
      LI Lijun;PU Zongyao;LI Feng;WANG Hua;LAN Bin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  4-8. 
      Abstract ( 1494 )   PDF (289KB) ( 712 )   Save
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      In order to investigate the thermal degradation kinetics of Polyphenylene Sulfide (PPS) fibers, performance of PPS fibers were analyzed at certain heating rates in nitrogen by means of thermogravimetry. The kinetic parameters of PPS fibers were obtained according to Kissinger,Flynn-Wall-Ozawa and Friedman methods. In addition, thermal stability of PPS fibers was also investigated. It was found that both the initial decomposition temperature and the temperature at maximal thermal degradation rate increase with the increase of heating rate. The activation energy E, reaction order n and pre-exponential factors A of PPS fibers obtained by Flynn-Wall-Ozawa and Friedman methods are 185.0kJ/mol、1.21 and5.7×109 , respectively. The activation energy E and pre-exponential factors A of PPS fibers at maximal thermal degradation rate obtained by Kissinger methods are 228.3 kJ/mol and 2.9×109 respectively.

      Synthesis of polyurethane foam using waste polyester
      GUO Xinxin;YU Teanshi;GE Mingqiao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  9-12. 
      Abstract ( 1068 )   PDF (233KB) ( 415 )   Save
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      In order to reduce the pollution produced by polyester fiber wastes and promote resource recycling use, ethylene terephthalate (BHET) monomers were prepared with waste polyester, glycol, polyisocyanate and so on through degrading them by alcoholysis technology. Rigid polyurethane foam was made with BHET monomers. The influence of auxiliary materials, such as foam catalyst and foaming agent, on the compression performance and density of rigid polyurethane was discussed. The results demonstrated that when the proportion of raw materials is fixed, catalyst is 0.32g and foaming agent is 0.8g, polyurethane foam obtained has higher compressive strength and lower density. The products were characterized by IR, and optical microscope.

      Effect of electrospinning parameters on morphologies of nanofibers and jet
      LI Ni;XIONG Jie;XUE Hua
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  13-18. 
      Abstract ( 1043 )   PDF (885KB) ( 567 )   Save
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      Electrospinning method was used to fabricate PVA nanofibers. The effects of solution mass concentration, conductivity and applied voltage on the vertex angle of envelope cone formed by exactly rapid moving jet, nanofiber deposited area and average diameter were investigated by a digital camera and SEM. The results indicated that the angle and the area decreased with the increase of these parameters. Fiber diameter increased with the increase of solution mass concentration, decreased with the increase of solution conductivity and increased firstly with the increase of applied voltage, and then decreased.

      Selection of fiber-type hemp varieties
      JI Yingchao;JIANG Fengqin;ZHAO Yuping
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  19-22. 
      Abstract ( 1277 )   PDF (108KB) ( 561 )   Save
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      For obtaining high quality hemp fiber variety, 8 hemp varieties i.e., Longjiang 1#, USO-14, Yunnan hemp 1#, Shandong hemp, Qingshui hemp, Ningxia 6757, Ningxia 6762 and USO-31 were selected for planting experiment in the north area of Heilongjiang province. By comparing the yield per mu,bast fiber percentage,chemical composition, fiber finished product rate and spinnability in combination with botany-related research, the fiber-type hemp varieties are selected. The research results show that the composite index of Longjiang 1# is the best. It is most suitable to be planted in the north part of Heilongjiang, and followed by Shandong hemp, USO-14, USO-31.

      Preparation of nonwovens loaded with nano-ZnO and its photocatalytic reactivity
      ZHAO Diandong;DENG Bingyao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  23-27. 
      Abstract ( 1053 )   PDF (510KB) ( 458 )   Save
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      Nonwovens loaded with nano-ZnO was prepared with nano-ZnO finishing agent. Zeta particle size and potential analyzer was used to examine the Zeta potential, nano-ZnO particle size and distribution of the finishing agent. Atomic force microscopy (AFM) was employed to study the distribution of nano-ZnO on nonwovens. The results revealed that the average particle size of nano-ZnO finishing agent was less than 100 nm, and most of the particle sizes on nonwovens after treatment were less than 100 nm. The nonwoven materials loaded with nano-ZnO had good photocatalytic performance and washability. The photocatalytic reactivity still maintained above 50% after 8 times washing. Under the same experimental conditions, the nonwoven materials treated with nano-ZnO finishing agent containing acrylate adhesive had better washing fastness.

      Effect of nonwovens pore fractal dimensions on their acoustic absorption behaviors
      YANG Shu;YU Weidong;;PAN Ning;
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  28-32. 
      Abstract ( 1047 )   PDF (1603KB) ( 542 )   Save
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      In order to clarify the effect of pore characteristic on sound absorption behaviors of nonwovens, Sound absorption behaviors of six nonwovens are measured by SW260 double-microphones standing wave tube, and then their pore area fractal dimensions are calculated by box-counting method. The results indicate that increasing air gap improves the absorption coefficient on the tested frequency, and the absorption curve moves towards lower frequency. In addition, the results show that the pore structures of nonwovens have obvious fractal characteristics. The acoustic absorption coefficient grows linearly with increasing area fractal dimension, while the absorption peak moves towards lower frequency.

      Photo-oxidation of PVC-coated membrane material
      QIU Wencan;YANG Xudong;DING Xin;HU Chun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  33-38. 
      Abstract ( 1138 )   PDF (832KB) ( 606 )   Save
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      The photo-oxidation ageing process of PVC-coated membrane material was studied by artificial accelerated ageing test using different intensities of UV irradiation. The Yellowness index was tested during the experiments. FTIR and UV-Vis spectrometry were used to analyze the results. It was found that the photo-oxidation mechanism didn’t change under different UV intensities, but the ageing degree of the samples was not equivalent when the cumulative UV radiation energy was the same. It’s because the photo-oxidation reaction rate under different intensities is out of proportion to UV intensity. So the reciprocity law does not apply to buil PVC’s life prediction model, but better correlation between ageing results of sample under different UV intensities can be obtained according to Schwarzschild’s law.

      纺织工程
      Automatic identification for processing parameter of slub yarn
      LIAN Jun;LU Yongliang;XU Bojun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  39-42. 
      Abstract ( 958 )   PDF (345KB) ( 496 )   Save
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      The purpose of this study is to improve the speed and precision of testing the processing parameters of slub yarn, and use of computer to carry out this testing is proposed. The basic principal of testing the processing parameter of slubby yarn was introduced. And we developed a slub yarn testing system which was used to test the sample of slub yarn. We got time sequence chart of thickness of slubby yarn, distance sequence chart of slub length and slub space, and distribution charts of slub length, slub space and slub scaling factor. The results tested showed in good agreement with the originally set parameters. The resulting errors were analyzed also. Experiments demonstrated that this testing system is effectively, and can be adopted in production.

      Development of optical fiber fabric with pattern color changeable
      WU Rui;JIN ZiMin;LU Haojie;WANG Jinchun;YANG Bin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  43-47. 
      Abstract ( 936 )   PDF (385KB) ( 772 )   Save
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      To obtain a novel luminescent fabric, optical fibers and common yarns are used to fabricate a union fabric which has patterns on its surface that are formed by optical fibers via double picks structure design, and by utilizing the lateral light emitted from the crooked optical fibers in the fabric, coupled with circuit design and control unit design, the Chinese character “FU” woven with optical fibers in this fabric deplays in green light and red light alternatively. This light-emitting fabric with changeable patterns and colors has light-emitting diodes as its light source, and BM-5A luminance colorimeter is used to measure its luminance, the value is ranging from 0.7 to 4.5cd/m2, far higher than that can be observed by human eye. The luminescent fabric developed in this paper can be used for all kinds of decoration and further development as flexible displays.

      Design and trial-weaving of multi-layer reinforcement fabric with superimposed warps
      WANG Zhaojun;ZHOU Luoqing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  47-52. 
      Abstract ( 1104 )   PDF (598KB) ( 587 )   Save
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      To optimize the multi-layer woven structure for improving the bulk density of fiber reinforcement , strength and modulus, a new multi-layer woven structure was researched —inter-layer warp connecting multi-layer fabric structure. The layers connected by superimposed warp running through various sub-layers, fabricating laminated fabrics with integral multi-layer structure. The paper described the principle of weaving, designed the special heddle and heald frame and weaving movement, and produced the multi-layer woven fabric with self-made weaving machine. Research shows that compared with traditional multi-layer structure, the fabric is closer and the degree of fiber bending lower because of the stacked structure in the result of a higher fiber volume density and tensile modulus, also the surface damage spreading along the thickness direction is lessened.

      Evaluation of mechanical properties of ramie fabric under three-dimensional load
      WANG Ge;CHEN Fuming;CHENG Haitao;LI Xianjun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  53-58. 
      Abstract ( 1044 )   PDF (967KB) ( 447 )   Save
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      For complex stress issues of fabric under practical working environment, mechanical properties of ramie textile were investigated under uniaxial and biaxial directions, bursting and three-dimensional load, and the strain fileds of different force bearing modes were characterized by using digital speckle correlation. The poisson ratio is 0.3114, warpwise and weftwise elastic modulus is 6624 N/m, and 2656 N/m respectively under biaxial load. Breaking strength under uniaxial force is larger than that in warpwise, but smaller than that in weftwise. Coefficient of variations in both warp-and weftwise are larger when compared with unaxial tension. X direction strain-field under biaxial load fluctuations lies between unaxial tensions of weft and warp. Covariance and correlation analysis showed that the difference of bursting strength under three-dimensional load was primarily determined by bursting ways, correlation coefficient between breaking strength of warp and weft is -0.613. Partial correlation analysis showed that there is 13.72% generated by synergy effects of bursting strength.

      Parametric design of three-dimensional woven orthogonal composite material
      FENG Zhaohang;TIAN Wei;MA Leilei;LIU Peng;ZHU Chengyan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  59-63. 
      Abstract ( 1071 )   PDF (710KB) ( 469 )   Save
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      In order to develop an available model for simulative analysis of mechanical properties of 3D woven orthogonal structure composites, the micro-geometry structure of the preform of three-layer orthogonal woven composite was observed and the geometric positional relationship between the yarns in the least repeating unit of the three-layer orthogonal woven composite was analyzed. Then the relationship between the geometrical parameters of the least repeating unit and the designing parameters was discussed. On this basis, parametric design of the preform of composite material was carried out by using Pro/Engineer software, and a common model of the 3D orthogonal structural preform was established. And then, the rationality of the model was verified by comparing the actual structure, model structure, and the fiber volume fraction.

      染整与化学品
      Improving DCCA-protease process for antifelting of wool
      HU Shengrong;JI Huijin;WANG Qiang;FAN Xuerong;WANG Ping
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  64-69. 
      Abstract ( 891 )   PDF (1007KB) ( 446 )   Save
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      In order to reduce the effect of DCCA used in the chloride-protease process for wool shrink-proofing on the environment, the feasibility of improving the antifelting process for wool by lowering the dosage of DCCA has been studied through comparing current high DCCA-low protease process(3.5%(o.w.f) DCCA+0.7%(o.w.f) Protease) and modified low DCCA-high protease process(1%(o.w.f)DCCA+2.5%(o.w.f)Protease)in terms of shrinkage, wettabiliaty and break strength. In addition, according to the results of protein release efficiency, weight loss and SEM examination, the mechanism of the modified process was further analyzed. It is shown that the wool treated with modified process is also machine-washable. Meanwhile, better wettability, and less fiber damage when compared with the current process. The result of the concentration of hydrolyzed proteins as a function of time shows that the pretreatment of low DCCA can produce a rapid increase in protein release, causing an increase in the weight loss. SEM images indicate that the modified process can well strip the scales of wool.

      Application of ultrasonic technique in low temperature dyeing of wool
      YU Yiting;CHEN Xia;ZHU Wenyuan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  70-72. 
      Abstract ( 1018 )   PDF (110KB) ( 447 )   Save
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      Compared with the conventional dyeing process, low temperature ultrasonic dyeing of wool enjoys advantages of energy saving, consumption reduction, improving product quality. The feasibility of ultrasonic technology used in low-temperature dyeing of wool was investigated, and the effects of ultrasound on color yield and dye uptake were studied when ultrasonic dyeing of wool was performed with reactive or acid dyes at 50-55℃. The experiment revealed that ultrasonic action redoubled the color yield under the above temperature condition. The color yield of reactive dyed wool also exhibited significant enhancement.Above 90% color yield can be obtained when ultraasonic dyeing of wool with reactive dyes for 200 min or with acid dyes for 90 min. So, it can be seen that ultrasound promotes low temperature dyeing of wool and good result of dyeing can be achieved.

      Study on kinetics of silica sol adsorption in cotton fabrics
      SONG Linyan;MA Xiaoguang;MENG Lingxiang;ZHANG Ying
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  73-77. 
      Abstract ( 907 )   PDF (231KB) ( 430 )   Save
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      Silicon-molybdenum blue method was employed to study the kinetics of silica sol adsorption in cotton fabrics. Comparative study of Langmuir and Freundlich adsorption models showed that the former model was more applicable to the silica adsorption in cotton fabrics. The reaction order of the adsorption was gotten by measuring the adsorption of sol solution with different initial concentrations, and it was first-order. Absorption rate constants were gotten by determining the concentration of silica in residue after adsorption at different temperatures. The activation energy was 13.56kJ/mol, and the preexponential factor A0 was 1.287s-1.

      Performance of cotton fabric finished by poly(butyl acrylate)/TiO2 composite latex
      YUAN Yan;ZHAO Jianzhong;ZHANG Rui;FU Goudong;QI Dongming;
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  78-83. 
      Abstract ( 1130 )   PDF (852KB) ( 604 )   Save
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      Poly(butyl acrylate)/TiO2 (PBA/TiO2) composite latex prepared by in-situ emulsion polymerization was used to finish cotton fabric via dip padding, and the functionality and wearability of the finished cotton fabric was compared with those of other three cotton fabrics treated by mixed finishing dispersions (aqueous TiO2 , PBA latex + TiO2 , binder VECO + TiO2 ) on similar finishing process. The results indicated that under similar treating conditions, the TiO2 particles are small, well and evenly dispersed on the fiber surface of PBA/TiO2–treated cotton fabric, forming a thin film with little fiber to fiber adhesion inside the yarn. In essence, the single fiber coverage by PBA/TiO2 coating is realized, thus it has less influence on the wearability such as whiteness and handle.

      Durable press finishing of cotton fabrics
      SONG Huijun;HAN Bing;ZHANG Jianli
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  84-88. 
      Abstract ( 1039 )   PDF (200KB) ( 527 )   Save
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      Polycarboxylic acid finishing of cotton fabrics was studied. In order to eliminate the effect of formaldehyde released by DP finishing, and reduce the yellowness caused by high temperature curing and phosphorus content in wastewater, DP finishing of cotton fabrics was performed with mixed citric acid and tartaric acid as finishing agent, and the effects of mass fraction of citric acid and tartaric acid, curing conditions, kinds and concentration of catalyst, and mass concentration of additives on the treatment were investigated. The experiment demonstrated that the optimum finishing results are obtained when mass fraction of citric acid to tartaric acid is 1:1, curing temperature is 180 ℃, curing time is 2 min, mass concentration of nanosilica is 2g/L, mass concentration of sodium hypophosphite is 20g/L, and mass concentration of softener LD-5030 is 20g/L.

      Determination of banned AZO colourants in dyed textiles by liquid chromatography- electrospray ionization mass spectrometry
      QIAN Weijun;RUAN Yong;SHI Dongliang;JIN Meiju;CHEN Jianyong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  89-92. 
      Abstract ( 1112 )   PDF (178KB) ( 675 )   Save
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      A method has been developed for the determination of the banned AZO colourants in dyed pure worsted fabrics by high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with an electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (HPLC-ESI/MS). After the banned AZO colourants in dyed worsted fabrics were extracted and deoxidized, the separation was performed on a ZORBAX Eclipse XDB-C18 column(150 mm × 2.1 mm I.D., 5 µm)with mobile phase consisting of 5 mmol/L aqueous ammonium acetate-acetic acid/methanol in gradient elution. Detection was carried out by an ion trap mass spectrograph with an ESI interface in the positive mode using external standard method. Simultaneous separation and determination of 21 aromatic amines were realized. The recoveries were between 80.0~102.4 %, and the RSDs were less than 9.4 %. This method was found to be sensitive, fast and accurate, and it can be used for the determination of the banned AZO colourants in dyed textiles samples.

      Study on elimination kinetics of C.I. Reactive Blue 19
      MA Ning;YIN Hong;YUAN Shenfeng;CHEN Zhirong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  93-97. 
      Abstract ( 944 )   PDF (147KB) ( 541 )   Save
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      To investigate the stability of vinylsulfone reactive dyes under near neutral conditions, the elimination kinetics of C.I. Reactive Blue 19 was studied using high performance liquid chromatography(HPLC), and the results showed that the elimination reaction of C.I. Reactive Blue 19 is a second order reaction that can be seen as a pseudo first order reaction in buffer solution. The pseudo first rate constant K can be expressed as kc(OH-), in which k , the second rate constant, increases with the increase of ionic strength of buffer solution because of salt effect under a certain temperature. The value of k, only related to temperature, can be expressed as k=8.86×1011exp(-6604/T)in the infinitely dilute conditions. The reaction activation energy is 54.91 kJ/mol approximately.

      Synthesis of wet rubbing fastness improver and its application on cotton fabrics dyed with reactive dyes
      LIU Deju;LI Liang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  98-102. 
      Abstract ( 1616 )   PDF (209KB) ( 496 )   Save
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      A water soluble polyurethane-acrylate (PUA) hybrid emulsion were synthesized through macromonomer radical copolymerization to improve wet rubbing fastness of cotton fabrics dyed with reactive dyes. The effects of -COOH content on the particle size, viscosity, and appearance of the emulsion were discussed. The effect of the dosage of acrylate on the particle size of the emulsion was analyzed, the relasionship between the ratio of nNCO/nOH and mechanical behavior of emulsion film was investigated. ATR was used to characterize the structure of the product, and PUA was applied on the cotton fabrics dyed with reactive dye for improving their rubbing fastness. The results showed that the PUA emulsion film had good tensile strength and breaking elongation when the ratio of nNCO/nOH was 1.4%; The emulsion had well dispersibility when COOH was 1.4%. The cotton fabrics treated with the PUA emulsion exhibited better wet rubbing fastness and soaping fastness.

      服装工程
      Effect of thickness of air layer under clothing on heat transmission of wearer
      ZHANG Zhaohua;WANG Yuyi;LI Jun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  103-107. 
      Abstract ( 1230 )   PDF (207KB) ( 1001 )   Save
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      The air gap between human skin and clothing inner surface is one of the most important paths to transfer heat from human body to environment. By reconstructing the hot plate in a climate chamber, the fabric apparent temperature with different air gap thickness is tested and the relationship between air gap thickness and fabric apparent temperature is studied. A mathematical model is established to simulate the sensible heat originated from human skin is delivered to environment through the air gap layer and the fabric. The effect of air gap thickness on heat transfer from clothed human body is analyzed. Both experimental and simulated results show that the clothing apparent temperature decreases with the air gap thickness, but the temperature begins to rise when the air gap thickness reaches 16mm because the onset of natural convection increases the heat transfer from skin to fabric. The combination of environmental conditions and air gap thickness affects the heat transfer through clothing system.

      Analysis on applicability of draping
      WEI Jing;JIN Chenyi;HAN Yang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  108-111. 
      Abstract ( 1133 )   PDF (121KB) ( 503 )   Save
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      The article analyzes the applicability of draping from such respects as shaping, structure, material, pattern and method which are involved in draping, that is, the control of clothing space should be realized by handling the quantity of inner space and modeling the shape of the outer space to reach the balance of the clothing structure, especially the silk balance, structure balance and ease balance. The integration of texture is realized by transforming, adding, reducing, and composite. The equilibrium degree of pattern and quality is critical to reflect costumes homogeneity. For improving the quality of pattern, it is essential to express the shape accurately and describe the detail reasonably. Idea integration and the integration of process and technology are the core elements to reach modeling compatibility. The article aims at gaining new insights into draping, and has important meaning in opening its application fields.

      机械与器材
      Development of real-time electronic detection system for raw silk based on NI cRIO
      LIU Xin;CHEN Qingguan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  112-115. 
      Abstract ( 1014 )   PDF (575KB) ( 462 )   Save
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      Based on the voltage value sequences collected by SD-1 dynamic raw silk size tester, this paper uses NI-cRIO platform with built-in FPGA module which has μs time-control feature and 9014 real-time control system and has developed a high-speed detection system for the evenness and cleanness of raw silk in order to realize fast, accurate, several spindles’ on-line inspection and analysis. The main difficulty is to determine the algorithm reliability by using FPGA to compute 6 end channels, and display the results simultaneously and generate report forms for follow-up statistics and analysis,thus meeting the needs of inspection of defects in evenness of raw silks and subjective evaluation of the grade of raw silks. The goal to raise the efficiency of quality testing of raw silks of this study is realized.

      Modeling and analysis of yarn tension of carpet tufting machine
      XU Yang;SUN Zhijun;MENG Zhuo;SUN Yize;CHEN Guangfeng;
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  116-121. 
      Abstract ( 1431 )   PDF (569KB) ( 520 )   Save
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      In order to improve the resolution of tufted carpet and enhance its quality, constructing a proper yarn tension model is the key to accurately control the pile height of tufted carpet. This paper firstly introduced the components of a carpet tufting machine and the path of yarns. Then, Euler formula derived from А.П.МИНаКОВ’ is introduced into yarn tension system. Considering yarn bundle as viscoelastic load, sectional modeling for the yarn tension system is undertaken, including models of jacquard roller, constant tension guide yarn roller, and multi-layer yarn guides. Finally, the correctness of the models is verified by comparing the simulated yarn tension curves with those achieved by experimental methods. This research provides a reference for further work in designing yarn tension controllers.

      管理与信息化
      International marketing strategy of textile industry in Shaoxing and its impact on exportation efficiency
      MA Shuzhong;HUANG Hui;GU Haiyan;JIANG Fuming
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  122-127. 
      Abstract ( 1018 )   PDF (149KB) ( 816 )   Save
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      Textile industry is a pillar industry of Shaoxing. It is also one of the traditional labor-intensive industries, which has obvious comparative advantage and high dependence on international markets. The paper selects textile industry of Shaoxing, Zhejiang province as the research subject. Based on the literature of international marketing strategy and export performance, taking the development of Shaoxing textile industry and export into consideration, a theoretical model of international marketing strategy and export performance is built. According to the theoretical model, questionnaires were designed to collect data and information of relevant enterprises. After data are analyzed statistically and structural equation modeling is tested, various factors should be analyzed that have impacts on international marketing strategy and export performance. Finally, research results are explained and discussed, and suggestions on further improving the performance of Shaoxing textile export are brought forward.

      Development of data acquisition and management system of warping machine based on Distributed Control System mode
      LI Yonggang;SHAO Jingfeng;ZHANG Huiwei;QIN Lanshuang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  128-133. 
      Abstract ( 968 )   PDF (347KB) ( 487 )   Save
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      To improve work efficiency of the preparation workshop in the textile industry, and to ensure acquisition of correct and real-time output and quality data of warping frames, in the local area network (LAN) environment, a data acquisition and management system for warping frames was developed via network technology, communication technology, database technology, and computer control technology, which can realize the remote on-line monitoring of production data and machine operating status. The system architecture, working principle and the main management functions were introduced, and the technical problems during the design process were solved by using transaction machinery, STL technology, etc. Meanwhile, real-time production data were fitted through using software filtering algorithms, and then the fitting results were compared and analyzed. A smoothing method with Newton difference was put forward to the collected signal. The system has been used in the textile industry, its core functions met the requirements of production management of the preparation workshop, furthermore, the real-time and correctness of production data were ensured.

      Defect detection of printed fabrics using normalized cross correlation
      PAN Ruru;GAO Weidong;QIAN Xinxin;ZHANG Xiaoting
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  134-138. 
      Abstract ( 1069 )   PDF (634KB) ( 497 )   Save
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      A novel detection system based on normalized cross correlation and image analysis is proposed to detect the defects of printed fabrics. Matlab 7.0 is used as the software tool to construct the system. During the detection process, a fast normalized cross correlation computation is proposed based on the theory of sum-table scheme. The detection of the printed fabric defect simulated in software proves that the system can inspect the normal defects, such as color displacement, color aberration, of printed fabrics automatically. The experimental detection for actual printed fabric shows that the effectiveness and robustness of the proposed in this paper. By comparing the detection results of sub-windows with different sizes, 25 pixels×25 pixels are selected as the parameter of the sub-window in the final defect detection system.

      染整与化学品
      Printing patterns design based on Mandelbrot set in fractal theory
      JIANG Huiyu;ZHENG Chunling;LIU Suyi
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  139-142. 
      Abstract ( 1011 )   PDF (748KB) ( 489 )   Save
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      Based on fractal theory and graphical technology of computer, the formation principle and transformation modes of Mandelbrot set were discussed to make up the defaults in traditional fabric patterns design, which required longer conception and design time. And a novel approach for fabric printing pattern design was proposed, thereby abundant fantastic fractal patterns, Julia patterns were obtained by transforming Mandelbrot set. Some of these fractal patterns were applied onto silk products successfully by digital inkjet printing. It is proved that the findings are suitable for printing patterns design of textiles, and the fractal patterns can be rapidly applied to digital printing of textiles.

      综合评述
      New progress of automatic dispensing system of powder dyestuff for cheese dyeing
      TANG Lei;SHAN Zhongde;WU Shuangfeng;GUO Ruifeng;
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(12):  143-147. 
      Abstract ( 952 )   PDF (754KB) ( 677 )   Save
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      Powder dyestuff dispensing is one of the important processes of cheese dyeing, whose precision affects the quality of dyed products directly. The traditional manual operation has many drawbacks such as low precision, low efficiency, and high consumption of energy. An analytical comparison of typical powder dyestuff automatic dispensing systems for cheese dyeing both at home and abroad is made, and the characteristics of the system such as higher precision, productivity and information management level are reviewed. It points out that it is an inevitable developing trend for the dyeing and finishing industry to replace the traditional manual operation with automatic dispensing technology.