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Table of Content

    15 July 2017, Volume 38 Issue 07
    • Dissolving modes of wool fibres observed by scanning electron microscopy
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  1-5.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160706305
      Abstract ( 676 )   PDF (1955KB) ( 160 )   Save
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      In order to study the dissolving modes of wool to reuse the wool fibers, the scanning electron microscopy was employed to observe the surface morphological changes during its dissolution process, and two dissolving modes were proposed, i. e. , desquamation-of-cuticle-scales mode and collapsion-of-fibres-backbone mode. The desquamation-of-cuticle-scales mode refers to be wrinkled or partially dissolved, eventually breadage or desgramation of wool scales after the solvents swelling. The collapsion-of-fibres-backbone mode is due to the inherent and damaged defects of wool, through which the solvents permeate into the cortex and react with the large molecules of keratins, resulting in its dissolution, making the shrinkage and collapse of wool backbone and leaving the residues of insoluble cuticle scales. The whole dissolution process of wool can be regarded as the different combination of these two modes. The combination depends on the structure of cuticle scales and the inherent defects of fibres. It is different for different fibres and even for different parts of the same fiber. However, the collapsion-of-fibres-backbone is the main mode during the dissolving process of wool.

      Synthesis and properties of hydrophilic antistatic polyester masterbatch by melt blending
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  6-10.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161007805
      Abstract ( 668 )   PDF (1659KB) ( 377 )   Save
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      In order to improve the polyester hygroscopicity and antistatic property of polyester (PET) fiber, the blend master batch was prepared by blending the nano-sized superabsorbent sodium polyacrylate particles with conventional polyester, and its thermal properties, melt crystallization, hydrophilicity and rheological properties were researched. The results show that the hydrophilicity of polyester is significantly improved with addition of superabsorbent powder. The thermal stability of masterbatch is similar to that of ordinary polyester. A certain proportion of masterbatch is selected to mix with conventional polyester to manufacture staple fiber by melt spinning, and the hygroscopicity and antistatic property of the blended fibers were analyzed, respectively. The results show that the addition of superabsorbent micropowder improves the crystallization rate and the hydrophilicity of the blended polyester. The hygroscopicity and antistatic property of the blended fiber are also enhanced. The fiber with excellent mechanical properties is obtained by adding 4% of sodium polyacrylate, and its moisture absorption reaches 2.09% and the volume resistivity arrived 2.3 × 109Ω ?cm.

      Synergistic effect between cyclotriphosphazene and triazinederivatives on flame retardancy of poly(ethylene terethalate)
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  11-17.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160601707
      Abstract ( 411 )   PDF (1800KB) ( 169 )   Save
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      The fire retardants hexakis (allyl 4-hydroxybenzoate) cyclotriphosphazene (HACP) and tri (allyl 4-hydroxybenzoate )-1,3,5-triazine (TATZ) were successfully synthesized to improve the flame retardancy of poly (ethylene terethalate) (PET), and PET/HACP/TATZ composites were prepared by melt-blending method. The flame retardancy, thermal stability, mechanical property and char forming characteristics of the products were investigated by Limiting Oxygen Index (LOI), vertical burning test, micro calorimeter, thermogravimetric analyzer, differential scanning calorimeter and tensile tester. The results suggest that the synergistic flame retardant effect between HACP and TATZ improved the flame retardancy of PET, and also reduced the negative effect on mechanical property of PET. The LOI value improved to 32.4 % and reaches V-0 in the UL 94 test, and the value of heat release rate decreases to 30.9% in comparison with that of pure PET.

      Ultraviolet protective properties of polyacrylonitrile/TiO2 nanofiber
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  18-22.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160704005
      Abstract ( 580 )   PDF (1766KB) ( 288 )   Save
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      To study the ultraviolet (UV) protective properties of PAN/TiO2 nanofibrous, TiO2 nanoparticles were added into the PAN solution and mixed PAN/TiO2 nanofibrous films were prepared by electrospinning method. The morphologies and UV protective properties were carried out by scanning electron microscopy and UV transmitance analyzer. The results show that the fiber diameter decreases for the mixed PAN/TiO2 nanofibers. Infrared spectra show that mixed PAN/TiO2 nanofibers also express characteristic absorptio peak of TiO2 besides the characteristic peaks of PAN. The addition of TiO2 enhances UV-protective property of PAN/TiO2 nanofibers. The UV propertive factor (UPF) of pure PAN nanofiber is 30.72, while the UPF of PAN/TiO2 nanofibers range from 1 096.21 to 1 865.49. The UPF valre increases with the increasing of TiO2 mass fraction. When the mass fraction of TiO2 is 0.5%, PAN/TiO2 nanofibers are smoother in surface, smaller in diameter and better in UV-protective property.

      Preparation and properties of gradient filter materials with different packing density
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  23-27.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160902105
      Abstract ( 649 )   PDF (1422KB) ( 169 )   Save
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      In order to prepare filter with low resistance performance under the same filtration effficiency, the combined melt-electrospinning and hot-pressing device was used to prepare fiber packing density gradient composite filters with polypeopylene (PP) sa raw material. Firstly, the filtration efficiency of the composite filters perpared under defferent rolling-up speeds was studied. It is found that the filtration efficiency of composite fileters decreases with the increase of the rolling-up speed. Secondly, three rolling-up speeds were selected to prepare three fiber nets with the same thickness, and their packing densities were calculated. Finally, the fiber nets with different packing densities were combined with PP spun bonded nonwoven to pripare gradient filters. The results show that the obtained composite filters with gradient have low resistance under the same filtration efficiency.  In addition, the filtration efficiency of particles with a particle size greater than or equal to 2.0 μm is 87.0 %, the filtration resistance is 8.0 Pa,and the air permeability is 187.0 mm/s.

      Influence of tensile residual stress on mechanical properties of poly(vinylidene fluoride) fiber
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  28-33.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161105306
      Abstract ( 361 )   PDF (1643KB) ( 131 )   Save
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      In order to obtain poly(vinylidene fluoride) (PVDF) fibers with high tensile strength,post-treatment tests of fibers with a certain length and tension produced during the fiber drawing process were designed to explore the optimal post-treatment parameters. Thermal analysis (DSC), infrared spectrum (FTIR), X- ray diffraction (XRD) and tensile tests were carried out to analyze the crystal form structure, crystal orientation, grain size, degree of crystallinity and mechanical properties of the fibers. The results show that: α-phase crystalline could be further transformed to β-phase after the post-treatment and the content of β-phase increased from 74.6% to 88.7%. The crystallinity increased from 49.4% to 52.3%. The orientation factor increased from 0.793 2 to 0.833 4, and the tensile strength of fiber increased markedly, especially under the conditions of treating at 60°C for 3 h, the tensile strength reached to 633 MPa. Compared with untreated fiber, the tensile strength increases by 70 MPa.

      Double S curves soft drafting technology
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  34-38.  doi:10.13475 /j.fzxb.20160602105
      Abstract ( 474 )   PDF (1444KB) ( 110 )   Save
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      The principles of yarn quality improvement of the double S curves soft drafting technology-logy (doubles S soft drafting) were analyzed from the perspective of devices. The same types of yarns were produced by ring spinning and double S soft drafting, respectively, and the yarn samples were measured and compared. Then the characteristics of yarns produced by soft drafting were summarized and the reasons were discussed. causes In conventional ring spinning, the surface speed difference between the upper and lower aprons caused friction and static electricity, which resulted in decrease of yarn quality. Howere, in the double S soft drafting system, the upper and lower aprons and bins were removed, and the yarn body was well controlled and drafted by the S-shaped plates, cruve pipes and lattice aprons. By using the ring spinning and doubles soft drafting technology respectively, the yarn of combed cotton/polyester(60/40) with fineness of 18.4tex was produced, and yarn evenness and defaults were tested. The data were analyzed using statistic factor variance analysis. The results show that double S soft drafting technology can clearly improve yarn evenness, and reduce the occurrence probability of neps, thin places and thick places per kilometer. Double S soft drafting is especially useful for reduction of thickness (+35%) defaults index. The reason is considered to lie in the facts that doouble S soft drafting technology can optimize the distribution of drafting area friction and shorten the length of floating zone, and thus performing more effective control on floating fibers.

      Principle and analysis of slub yarns spun by three-channel digital ring spinning
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  39-43.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160708305
      Abstract ( 484 )   PDF (1515KB) ( 204 )   Save
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      In order to explore the influence of slub yarn linear density, slub length and slub diatance on the properties of colorful slub yarn, 27.8 tex colorful cotton slub yarns were spun on three-channel digital spinning frame using single-channel, two-channel or three-channel feeding modes and adopting four kinds of ratio between slub and basic yarn (105, 2.0, 2.5 and 3.0), three kinds of slub length (5.1 cm, 702cm and 9.3cm), and the same slub distance. The strength and appearance of these yarns were investigated. The results showed that actual length of slub yarn is greater than that of designed, and the slub distance and linear density of slub is smaller than that of the designed value. When the linear density of slub is consant, with the increase of slub length, the deviation of length between the tested value and the designed value kept the same, but the strength of slub yarn decreases. When the slub length is constant, with the increase of the linear density of slub, the average slub length is more close to the designed value, but the strength of slub yarn decreases.

      Application of colored fiber mixed models in gray spun yarn
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  44-48.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160605605
      Abstract ( 309 )   PDF (1439KB) ( 122 )   Save
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      At present, most of color spinning enterprises still rely on experienced color matching persons for color matching, and some problems such as low color matching efficiency and poor accuracy still exist in the production. In order to solve these peoblems, back propogation (BP) neural network method was proposed to predict black and white fiber color matching in comparison with the prediction results using the Datacolor MATCH system simulation method and color mixing based model Kubelka-Munk two-constant theory. The above-mentioned three methods were all determined to be effective in predicting color mixing of black fiber and white fiber in gray spun yarns. The relative errors were controlled within 7.36%, and the color differnces between formula and standerd samples were less than1. It is found that the matching method based on BP neural network shows the optimal applicability, and the relative error is below 3.08%. 

      Out-of–plane deformation of tight woven fabric under high air pressure
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  49-55.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160703907
      Abstract ( 502 )   PDF (1763KB) ( 292 )   Save
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      For guiding new design on next generation of protective fabrics, the deformation mechanism of tight woven fabric under high air pressure were studied. According to the energy theory and mechanism of plates and shells, the energy balance equation for the out-of -plane deformation of tight woven fabric was established. From the minimum energy of the deformation system, the maximum deformation and deformed profile of fabric could be predicted. The out-of-plane deformation of two tight woven fabrics was measured using a self-developed fabric deformation tester. The comparison shows that the deformation is negatively correlated with the elastic modulus of fabric. The accuracy of the mathematical model is verified by experimental data. The comparison shows the model predictions with difference of less than 20% from experimental data, indicting that the analytical model can be used to predict other out-of-plane deformtion of fabrics under high air pressure.

      Model for predicting color mixing of dope-dyed polyester interwoven fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  56-62.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160506708
      Abstract ( 575 )   PDF (2216KB) ( 144 )   Save
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      In order to more accurately predict the spatial mixed color of dope-dyed polyester interwoven fabrics, the classical cylindrical section fabric geometric structure model was improved, and the computing method of yarn flattening coefficient after interwoven was proposed. Then, a new color prediction model with intermediate function and empirical coefficient was built based on the analyses of existing fiber blended and yarn interwoven color prediction models, which is suitable for the dope-dyed polyester interwoven color mixing fabrics. Meanwhile, the iteration method for determine the optimal empirical coefficient was introduced. Finally, total 288 peices of dope dyed polyester interwoven fabrics including 2 types of fabric specifications, 4 combinations of warp/weft density, and 32 weave structures, were woven for validation and evaluation on the accuracy and effectiveness of the new model. The results show that the prediction accuracy and applicability of new model are superior to those of the existing fixed form color prediction models, The advantage of the new model is that its empirical coefficient can bi adjust for different types of interwoven fabrics so as to lbtain a more accurate color prediction.

      Modeling analysis on impact damage of 3-D angle-interlock woven composite based on finite element
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  63-68.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160805206
      Abstract ( 338 )   PDF (1909KB) ( 143 )   Save
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      In order to study the high-velocity impact resistance of a 3-D angle-interlock woven composite (3DAWC) and guide the structural design of impact resistance materials, the dynamic mechanical responses of such composite subjected to the ballistic impact at serious striking velocities (500m/s, 600m/s and 800m/s) were calculated by finite element analysis. By comparatively analyzing the velocity-time curves and acceleration-time curves of the projectiles with different striking velocities, as well as the progressive damage evolution and ultimate damage morphologies of composite targets, it is found that the velocity degradation process of the project can be divided into 2 stages. The fluctuation in acceleration can directly indicated the dynamic absorption law of 3DAWC target on kinetic energy of projectile. In addition, the bent regions in warp yarns are key structural parts for 3DAWC. Such local regions, therefore, should be strengthened and performed structural optimization for the design of impact-resistance type of 3DAWC.

      Influence of rotating-drying model on properties of wool fabric drying in domestic dryer
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  69-74.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160802906
      Abstract ( 912 )   PDF (2209KB) ( 106 )   Save
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      In view of the problem whether pure knitted wool fabrics can be dried in a dryer or not, influences of hang-drying model, single clockwise direction rotating-drying model and alternating clockwise and counterclockwise rotating-drying model on pilling of pure knitted wool fabrics were investigated by pilling tester, scanning electron microscopy, X-ray diffraction and Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric (KES-FB).The results show that pilling and morphology of wool fiber are significantly affected by the direction of rotating. In addition, different rotating-drying models only damage in pilling and microstructure of fiber instead of the wool fiber chemical composition and molecular structure. The drying maximum damage is obtained undre clockwise direction rotating condition, the surface scales of wool fibers are partially cleaved, some grooves generate on the surface, and surface hairiness increases. Bending stiffness decreases significantly. Combined with the drying energy consumption and drying time, alternating clockwise and counterclockwise rotating-drying model is optimal for pure wool fabric.

      Application of plasma oxidation in hemp fiber degumming
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  75-79.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160607305
      Abstract ( 428 )   PDF (1632KB) ( 198 )   Save
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      In order to obtain an environmental friendly method for hemp degumming, the orthogonal experiment for lignosulfonates was designed based on glow discharge plasma in water. The optimum oxidative degradation conditions for lignin in hemp are as followed. The initial concentration of hemp solution of 210mg/L, the discharge power of 100W, and the discharge time is 20 min. Free radicals capture and pH experiments show that plasma discharge creates a large qantity of • OH free radicals and H+. This kind of acid oxidizing water is beneficial to degum hemp fibers by removing pectin, oxidative degrading lignin and hydrolyzing hemicellulose. The degraded prodrcts are characterized by scanning electron microscopy and chemical composition analysis. The results show that hemp fibers are splitted. The components of the lignin, pectin and hemicellulose of hemp fiber are decreased. The component of cellulose is increased to 73.08%. The pH and chemical oxygen demand (COD) results show that the residual water is acidic. Its COD value reanges from 1 500 - 2 000 mg/L.

      Preparation of reactive dye/polymer composite copolymer microspheres
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  80-84.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160806805
      Abstract ( 358 )   PDF (1571KB) ( 151 )   Save
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      In order to prepare colored composite microspheres with unifprm particle size and high dye content, cationic polymer microspheres poly (styrene (St) -butyl acrylate (BA) -vinylbenzyltrimethyl-ammonium chloride(VBT)) were synthesized by soap=free emulsion polymerization. Colored microspheres were perpared by using the electrostatic attraction and intermolecular force between the reactive dye molecules and the cationic polymer microspheres. The influence of dye dosage and stirring speed on the properties of colored copolymer microspheres were investigated by transmission electronvicroscope, nano-particle size and Zeta potential nanlyzer and equilibrium dialysis technology. The results indicate that thecolored copolymer microspheres are regularly spherical and have smooth surface. The negative charge of the surface, the absolute value of Zeta potentials (greater than 30 mV), and the dye content increase with increasing of the dye dosage although the particle size of the colored copolymer microspheres decreases. With the variation of the stirring speed, the particle size of the colored copolymer microspheres decreases, the size distribution becomes narrow and the adsorption amount of dye increases.

      Structure analysis and color formation of Liang cloth
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  85-89.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160706105
      Abstract ( 529 )   PDF (1836KB) ( 107 )   Save
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      In order to develop methods on designing environmental protective textiles, theoretical support and research methods are reasonably established from the process of the traditional national textile-handicraft. By scanning electrom microscopy, Raman spectroscopy, UV - visible spectroscopy and the other detection methods, the micro-structure, optical and other spectra characteristics of Liang cloth were analyzed, scientifically studied and theoretically explained aiming at analyzing the color formation source of the Liang cloth. The results show that the surface of the Liang cloth suffused with metallic purple, which belongs to the indigo dye chemical color and bright color of fabric structure. This is resulted from the comprehensive effcet of the chemical color and structural color of the indigo. The metallic luster is resulted from the thin film reflection and interference, and the purple derives from the micro-structure forms in the making process.

      Method of mixed dye liquor concentration detection based on spectral optimization and Multi-level support vector machine
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  90-94.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161003405
      Abstract ( 357 )   PDF (1532KB) ( 270 )   Save
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      In order to improve the detection accuracy of multi-components mixed dye liquor concentration during printing & dyeing process, a method was proposed for simultaneous determination of three components dye liquor concentration by absorption spectroscopy. The absorption spectra of the multi-components mixed dye liquor was collected by USB2000+ microfiber spectrometer with wavelength range of 339.22~1 000 nm. The original effective absorption spectra were smoothed by Savitzky-Golay (SG) convolution smoothing. 80 mixed dye liquors were divided into 75 training groups and 5 test groups according to sample set partitioning on joint X-Y distance (SPXY) method. The optimal characteristic wavelengths of the successive projections algorithm are 22. The multi-component concentration of the dye solution was detected by using the multi-level multi support vector machine model. The experimental results show that the relative error of the three-components mixed dye liquor concentration can be controlled within 10%, and the training time and prediction time of the classification model are shortened by about a half, which provides a reference to realiae on-line concentration detection of multi-component dye in the later stage.

      Influence of curing process on tribological properties of glass fiber composite
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  95-100.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160802206
      Abstract ( 372 )   PDF (2076KB) ( 144 )   Save
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      Decomposition products of asbestos friction material are carcinogenic and have severe pollution on the environment. In order to develop new ono-asbestos friction materials, glass fiber fabric which has excellent mechanical properties compared with asbestos was used as substrate, and phenolic resin was used as curing agent, By molding and curing, the friction material products were prepared. The influence of curing temperature, curing time, fiber orientation and phenolic resin on the tribological properties of glass fiber composite was studied in this paper. The results show that the optimum condition is curing time of 1 h and curing temperature of 180°C. Under this condition, the wear rate of the composite is the lowest with a friction coefficient of 0.25. The friction and wear properties of the glass fiber composite meet the application requirements. Furthermore, it can be widely used in various fields due to the advantages of low-cost, environmental friendiness, good heat resistance and mechanical strength.

      Influence of water repellent finished polypeopylene nonwoven fabric nonwoven fabric on micro environment of grape bagging
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  101-106.  doi:10.13475/j,fzxb.20160800306
      Abstract ( 404 )   PDF (1698KB) ( 209 )   Save
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      In order to improve water repellency of polypropylene (PP) nonwoven fabric and investigate the influence of bagging microenvironment on growth situation, PP nonwoven fabric with water repellent finishing was prepared using the waterborne polyurethane as crosslinking agent in combination with fluorine based water repellent agent. By orthogonal experiments analysis, the influence of water repellent concentration, crosslinking agent concentration, soaking time and curing temperature on water-repellency, ventilation property and light transmittance fwere studied and the optimal finishing process was obtained. By bagging experiment for grape in the fields, the light intensity,temperature and humidity of grape fruit bag were measured inside and outside, and the influence of PP nonwoven bags of water repellent finishing of fruit microenvironment on grape fruit quality were investigated. The results show that the primary and secondary factors and the optimal processing of water repellent finishing are curing at 130℃, water repellent concentration of 40g/L, soaking time of 10 min and crosslinking agent of 3 g/L.Water repellent performance of the PP non-woven grape bag increased by 60%.

      Automaatic and continuous preparation of ammonium sulfate based on disperse dyestuff wastewater
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  107-111.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160905105
      Abstract ( 468 )   PDF (1381KB) ( 142 )   Save
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      Aining at the difficult treatment of acidic wastewater of disperse dyes and easy production of secondary pollution, taking the acidic mother liquor wastewater grnerated in the prodrction of Disperse Blue 291:3 filter cake as an example, the comprehensive recycling and resource utilization technology were strdied. The paper also explores the energy conservation and emissions reduction process of dye wastewater. Disperse Blue 291:3 acidic mother liquor wastewater was treated by neutralization, decolorization and separation fine filtration, concentration and crystallization by mechanical vapor recompression (MVR), centrifugal separation. The residual dyes and other organic matter in acidic disperse dye wastewater are removed. Then ammonium sulfate with the nitrogen content of more than 20.92% and the free acid (sulfuric acid) content of less than 0.1% was prepared. In this way,the recycling and reuse of the acidic disperse dye wastewater are achieved. All the processes realize the automatic and continuous, green, clean and efficient production. Meanwhile, the application of the evaporation and concentration technology of MVR taking advantage of recycling of its secondary steam energy, improves the economic and environmental benefits of the preparation of ammonium sulfate.

      Collocation of tie color and patern and shirt based on visual perception
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  112-117.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160707207
      Abstract ( 537 )   PDF (2105KB) ( 186 )   Save
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      In order to help designers to find specific development direction of tie products, a bridge between consumers and designers was built. According to analysis on fashion trend, enterprise expert interview, questionnaire survey and E-store sales, purecolor, stripe, wavepoint, plaid, print in gand cashew nuts, six kinds of neck tie pattern were chosen, respectively, taking white, light blue and black shirt collocation as samples. Eye movement tracking observation experiment was used to explore mixing rules of the above patterns and shirts with different colors. SPSS was used to conduct variance analysis to research subjects fixation duration and times of various regions. Combined with consumers’ subjective survey, tie and shirt collocation rules with the highest concern were obtained based on experimental data.The results show that intensive correlation exists between fixation duration and cognitive activities during eye observation.Thus conclusions with preference can provide evidences to improve pattern design, color and shirt collocation to satisfy consumers' sentimental demand.

      Influence of clothing pressure on female lower limb muscle fatigue during running sports
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  118-123.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160706506
      Abstract ( 386 )   PDF (1533KB) ( 169 )   Save
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      In order to study the relationship between lower limb muscle fatigue and clothing pressureduring running sports, thirty females were employed as subjects.Their lower kimb musches' clothing pressure and surface electromyography data were measured objectively in the state of running sports when wearing sports pant of different clothing pressures. The results show that there is a correlation between root mean square and muscle fatigue status. The increase of clothing pressure has the effect on alleviate of muscle fatigue, and effects focus on the middle and late of the running. In view of relation tested part, effects vary depending on the site simultaneously, and vastus lateralis muscle affected most visibly due to larger clothing pressure.

      Methods of clothing pattern designing based on quasi-regular patterns with shadow effect
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  124-129.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160708706
      Abstract ( 553 )   PDF (2295KB) ( 118 )   Save
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      To discuss the application method of quasi-regular patterns with shadow effect on the fabric pattern design, a kind of new quasi-regular patterns with a unique shadow effect was obtained by adding a set of trigonometric functions to the mathematical model of quasi-regular pattern. The design theme was formed using these patterns as designing inspiration source. Then, some of these patterns were selected as design materials to make a combination design with a realistic flowers pattern, and the integral design of the apparel patterns with clothing style changes was realized to reconstruct the clothing patterns witch could fully express the design theme. The technique of digital printing for printed silk fabrics was appoied to produc the designed clothing. The methods,  therefore, were testied to be feasible.

      Rapid identification method of cashmere and wool based on bag-of-visual-word
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  130-134.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160606906
      Abstract ( 508 )   PDF (1851KB) ( 133 )   Save
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      In order to identify cashmere and wool rapedly and accurately, a method based on bag-of-wisual-word was proposed. Optical microscope images of cashmere and wool were taken as experimental specimen in this method. The problem of fiber identification was changed to problem of image classification. Firstly, fiber images were pre-processed to enhance their characteristics. Then, local features were extracted from fiber morphology and these local features were converted to visual words. Fiber images can be classified using visual words mentioned above. The experimental dataset contains 4 400 fiber images. Different mixing ratio of cashmere and wool were selected as train set and test set from the dataset. In this experiment, the highest recognition rate is 86%, and the lowest is 81.5%. The time required to identify 1 000 fibers is shorter than 100 s. The trained classifier can be saved and used for the later detection.

      Detection method for machine-harvested cotton impurities based on region color segmentation
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  135-141.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160906707
      Abstract ( 427 )   PDF (2332KB) ( 122 )   Save
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      Machine-harvested cotton impurities are multiply. It is important to detect the type and content of impurities for adjustment of the processing technique of cotton. An impurity detection method based on region color segmentation was presented. During image segmentation stage color gradient image was obtained based on filtered image firstly. Marking image was achieved by H-minima transform, and initial segmentation image was acquired based on modified gradient image by watershed algorithm. Then region merging was conducted for initial segmentation image. Region adjacency, region color feature and region area were considered for region merging. Region color features such as saturation, intensity, region color vector module and color similarity were used. Repeated merging was adopted, and information of color feature was updated in different merging. Finally various features including color, texture and shape were extracted through support vector machines algorithm for impurity recognition. Experimental result show that a successful recognition rate of 94% for natural impurities is achieved.

      Influence of woven fabric density on texture representation based on dictionary learning
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  142-147.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160800606
      Abstract ( 445 )   PDF (1973KB) ( 100 )   Save
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      In order to discuss an smart evaluation method for objective evaluation on fabric appearance quality, patches extracted from woven fabric images with different densities were used as training samples and discrete cosine dictionary was used as the initial dictionary of learning algorithm based on the least square method. The original woven fabric image samples can be restructured well by the dictionary by a linear summation of its elements. To evaluate the reconstruction performance, mean square error was selected as evaluation index. The influence of gray distribution of fabric images on the reconstruction error was discussed, and then the reconstruction of density on the reconstruction error were discussed with the normalized image gray value. The experimental results show that when the number of dictionary atoms equal to 9, the mean square error of plain increases firstly and then remains within a certain range and the mean square error of twill increases with the increasing of warp and weft density from 150 to 360 yarns/10 cm.

      Weft knitted fabric simulation using mixed color yarn texture information
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  148-154.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160805607
      Abstract ( 402 )   PDF (2422KB) ( 195 )   Save
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      In order to study a simulation method for weft knitted fabric external color and schlieren using digital and mexed color yarn, the details remobing blurred image was fiestly acquired by smoothing and denoising image using image processing technology. Then color image K-means clustering algorithm was applied to segment image to obtain yarn body image in the Lab space and clustering around the boundary and the center line of the information. On the basis of classic Pierce’s loop model, the profile information of the mixed color yarn image was used to complete the mapping from yarn to loop arc and loop column. Finally, according to the covering relationships of different textures, basic weft knitted fabric were obtained. The algorithm proposed for the yarn texture mapping to loop, can simulate mixed color and appearance of schlieren of weft knitted fabric using mixed color yarn according to the actual fabric structure and density.

      Research progress of biomedical textile artificial blood vessel
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  155-163.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160705309
      Abstract ( 1057 )   PDF (2732KB) ( 396 )   Save
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      In orer to develop artificial vascular prosthesis (AVP) with good biocompatibility, safety, effectiveness and long-term stability by using biomedical textiles forming technologies, the incidence of vascular diseases, research background and significance, safety, performance requirements, disadvantages and merits of various materials for AVPs were reviewed. Properties, structural characteristics of endovascular stents and AVPs for replacement purpose were compared and analyzed. Three kinds of fabrication methods including fibrous-jointing, cell culture based tissue engineering and 3-D printing were introduced, and their properties, applications and state of the art research progress were illustrated in details. In conclusion, the AVPs using biomedical textiles forming technologies needs the cooperation of multi disciplinary teams in the fields of biomaterials, mathematic, textiles and medical science. With combined innovation of raw materials, preparation methods, post-treatment processes, tissue engineering and clinical research, the satisfied AVPs with good performance can be diagnosed with vascular diseases can be therefore improved.

      Application status of thermoregulatory mode in clothing comfort evaluation with thermal manikin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(07):  164-172.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160707309
      Abstract ( 560 )   PDF (2497KB) ( 266 )   Save
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      In order to expand evaluation system of thermal manikin, considering the application status of traditional modes including constant skin temperature, constant heat flux and thermal comfort, it indicates that it has great necessity to integrate human thermoregulatory system into thermal manikin. In doing so, the shortcoming incapability of simulating human thermal regulation could be offset. Taking Fiala model as an example, the controlled system based on bio-heat equation and controlling system with four regulation mechanisms were analyzed. Combined with predicted mean vote (PMV), Unicweairy of Clifornia of Beerkeley (UCB) and other subjective thermal sensation models, thermoregulatory manikins could make predictions of both steady and transient thermal sensations, and evaluate comfort from the perspective of human beings. By comparisons between thermoregulatory numerical manikins and thermoregulatory manikins, it is concluded that the former has better flexibility, but has more influencing factors. Therefore, the latter has better accuracy.