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Table of Content

    15 November 2018, Volume 39 Issue 11
    • Extraction and characterization of oligomers from high molecular weight poly(ethylene terephthalate)
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  1-7.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180105307
      Abstract ( 991 )   PDF (1380KB) ( 449 )   Save
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      In order to study the composition and content of oligomers extracted from high molecular weight poly(ethylene terephthalate) (HMW-PET) and its invluence on the properties of HMW-PET, the extraction and precipitation of oligomers were performed on fiber-grade PET, solid-state polycondensation (SSP) and liquid-state polycondensation (LSP). The obtained oligomers were characterized by advanced polymer chromatography and differential scanning calorimetry. The results show that the precipitation process could separate oligomers quickly and completely. The extraction process can obtain oligomers with a good accuracy and less than 3%. The difference of oligomers content and  component is significant between SSP product and LSP products. The oligomers extracted show endothermic peaks at about 246.6 and 310.7 °C, respectively, and cyclic trimer accounts for the highest proportion in oligomers for all products. The cold crystallization temperature of fiber-grade PET and HMW-PET treated by extraction is increased. The melt enthalpy of fiber grade PET decreases by the extraction, while the enthalpy of HMW-PET become higher.

      Phosphorylation of silk fibroin and preparation of biomimetic mineralization membrane thereof
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  8-13.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180101606
      Abstract ( 734 )   PDF (2724KB) ( 323 )   Save
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      In order to prepare the silk fibroin-based bionic mineralization materials, silk fibroin (SF) was phosphorylated by sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), which can promote the adsorption of calcium ions, and facilitates the formation and deposition of calcium phosphate. The effects of two factors on the phosphorylated silk fibroin by controlling pH and the amount of sodium tripolyphosphate. The secondary structure, thermal stability, particle size, mechanical properties were analyzed. Phosphorylated silk fibroin was freeze-dried to form membrane, hydroxyapatite(HA) was formed on the surface by alternating mineralization method, and the surface morphology and content of calcium and phosphorus were evaluated by scanning electron microscopy and energy dispersive spectrometer. The results show that the phosphorylated conditions is pH 10 and the 0.24 g of STP, phosphorus transfer rate reaches 67.1%, and adsorption capacity of cationic dyes on the phosphorylated silk fibroin is better, and mechanical properties is slightly lower than the blank . Hydroxyapatite deposited on the surface of the phosphorylated silk fibroin membrane is more regular than the blank sample after alternating bionic mineralization.

      Preparation and characterization of silk fibroin /polyvinyl alcohol composite membrane
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  14-19.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180103307
      Abstract ( 989 )   PDF (2624KB) ( 233 )   Save
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      In order to discuss the influence of co-dissolution processing inionic liquid on structure and properties of silk fibroin composite membrane, the dugummed silk fiber and polyvinyl alcohol powder were dissolved by ionic liquid 1- allyl -3- methyl imidazolyl chloride ([Amim]Cl), respectively, and then the two dissolving systems were mixed according to different mass proportions and poured into a film former. After being soaked in methanol, [Amim]Cl was removed and naturally air-dried to form membranes. The composite membranes were tested and characterized by rltraviolet spectrophotometer, X-ray diffractometer, scanning electron microscope, optical contact angle meter and ultraviolet light resistant test box. The results show that the cimpatibility of silk fibroin and polyvinyl alcohol components can be improved by the [Amim]Cl co-dissolution method, the silk fibroin component during film formation migrates to the surface of the membrane, and its main conformation is the silk II structure. In addition, the surface roughness of the composite membrane increases with the increasing of the ratio of silk fibroin in the composite system, leading to the improvement of the hydrophilicity of the composite membrane. At the same time, the increasing of the ratio of silk fibroin will accelerate the photo-aging process of the composite membrane.

      Preparationof porphyrin grafted bacterial cellulose and photodynamic antimicrobial property thereof
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  20-26.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180104507
      Abstract ( 864 )   PDF (2031KB) ( 152 )   Save
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      In view of the drug-resistant characteristic of nosocomial bacterial infection, a novel photosensitive antimicrobial material pripared by grafting porphyrin were synthesized. Oxidized bacterial cellulose (BC-CHO) was prepared by immersing in sodium periodate (NaIO4) firstly, then ethylenediamine (EDA) was grafted onto the bacterial cellulose by reductive amination reaction, and finally protoporphyrin IX (PpIX) grafted ethylenediamined bacterial cellulose fibrous membrane was obtained by covalenting activated PpIX onto as-obtained ethylenediamined bacteria cellulose. Fourier transform infrared spectrometer, thermogravimetric analyzer, X-ray diffraction and scanning electron microscopy were utilized to analyze the functional groups, thermal properties, crystal structure of as-grafted fibrous membranes. At last, antibacterial behavior of BC-EDA-PpIX fibrous membrane and its reusability were discussed. The results show that amino spacer arm as well as the the a PpIX is successfully grafted onto the dialdehyde bacterial cellulose. Furthermore, the aldehyde content of BC-CHO gradually increased with the increase of NaIO4 concentration. Meanwhile, the thermal decomposition temperature decreased gradually, and the crystallinity slightly decreases. The first-timed antibacterial effect of the as-synthesized BC-EDA-PpIX fibrous membrane againse Staphylococcus aureus reached 98%, and such material still shows good antibacterial activity even after 5 times of ethanol washing.

      Structure and performances of double channel digital ring spinning melange yarn
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  27-32.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180100106
      Abstract ( 724 )   PDF (8780KB) ( 89 )   Save
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      In view of complicated fiber blending process and hard workshop management, the proposed digital ring spinning method could realize the synchronization of the spinning and the fiber blending. The mechanism of digitizing drafting to control the blending ratio of yarn to produce melange yarn was studied. The fiber blending scheme with 10% gradient was designed and 5 kinds of solid color yarn and 90 kinds of melange yarn were spun, and the color of melange yarn was simulated by Photoshop software. The structure, evenness and tensile mechanical properties of the yarn were tested and analyzed. The results show that the spinning and the fiber blending can achieve synchronization in one step by controlling the blending ratio of different colored fibers through a double channel digital ring spinning machine. Because of the mechanism of the double channel digital ring spinning draft and twisting, with the increase of any proportion of the colored fiber, the fracture strength of melange yarn shows the trend of increase first and then decrease. When the ratios of the two colored fibers are close to each other, the yarn has the fracture strength higher than solid color yarn.

      Evaluation on uncertainty of cotton/ramie blending ratio by micro-projection
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  33-37.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171008705
      Abstract ( 598 )   PDF (2531KB) ( 190 )   Save
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      In order to evaluate accuracy in measuring the blending ratio of cotton/ramie according to FZ/T 30003--2009 《QuantativeAnalysis on Cotton/Ramie Blended Textiles by Micro--profection Method》, the source of the uncertainty was discussed.  Four main uncertainties including fiber length, diameter, fiber number and densities were calculated. Meanwhile, the influence of cutting length of cotton and ramie fibers on measurement accuracy of fibers content was discussed. It is found that the neglecting on difference of fibers length results in 0.8% detection error. The results show that the uncrtainty introduced by equivalent diameter is the largest while by equivalent diameter is the largest while by density is the smallest when measuring the blending ratio of cotton and ramie by FZ/T 30003--2009. In order to improve measurement efficiency, the difference in fibers cutting length could be neglected within the allowed error range.

      Influence of leno structure on yarn gripping behaviour of aramid plain weave
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  38-44.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171202207
      Abstract ( 596 )   PDF (1683KB) ( 173 )   Save
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      In order to increase the gripping force of aramid woven fabric, leno structure is incorporated into the plain weave, aiming to improve the resistance of the weft yarns against lateral pull-out force. It is been found from the quasi-static yarn pull-out test that in un-crimping zone, the peak load force is closely associated with crimp interchange between the weft and warp yarns. In stick-slip zone, the force-displacement curve exhibits a decaying oscillation trend. The results also show that the pull-out force is in linear relationship with the number of yarns pulled. Double, triple and quadruple yarn pull-out test give an increase of 160%、289% and 389% in peak load force, compared with single yarn pull-out test. The combination of leno structure with plain weave effectively improves the gripping capability of the fabric. Single yarn pull-out test shows that an increase of about 20% in peak load force can be achieved, and the value is 65% for multiple yarn pull-out tests.

      Low velocity impact resistance of warp-knitted spacer fabrics of negative Poisson's ratio
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  45-49.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180105105
      Abstract ( 603 )   PDF (1248KB) ( 179 )   Save
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      In order to study the impact resistance ans energy absorption of warp-knitted spacer fabrics of different negative Poisson's ratios under low velocity impact, five fifferent auxetic warp-knitted samples were used for falling weight impact tests, and the influence relations of energy absorption rate and impact resistance to auxetic performance and initial impact energy were analyzed based on impact load-time curves and impacty load-displacement curves. Results show that the energy absorption rate and impact resistance increase with the increase of the negative Poisson's ratios value. The initial impact energy can also affect the energy absorption rate and impact resistance but have few influences on the overall energy absorption value of the fabrics under low velocity impact.

      Preparation and properties of CNTs/PEDOT:PSS thermoelectric composite textile materials
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  50-55.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180103206
      Abstract ( 865 )   PDF (4557KB) ( 500 )   Save
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      In order to obtain a novel flexible and wearable thermoelectric materials, (Poly(3,4-ethylenedioxythiophene) and poly(4-styrenesulfonate)(PEDOT/PSS) were used to evenly disperse carbon nanotubes (CNTs) onto fabrics, CNTs/PEDOT/PSS thermoelectric composite textile materials were prepared by dipping-drying method. The surface morphology and crystallization of the thermoelectric composite textile materials were characterized by field-emission scanning electron microscope and X ray diffraction. The Seebeck coefficient, electrical conductivity and thermal conductivity of CNTs composites with different content were measured. The thermoelectric properties were studied by calculating the thermoelectrc figure of merit (ZT) value, and the wearability such as moisture permeability and wrinkle recovery were studied. The results show that with the increase of CNTs content, the Seebeck coefficient and the electrical conductivity are increased, and the thermal conductivity remained at a lower level, the ZT value is increased, the thermoelectric properties are gradually enhanced, the moisture permeability is decreased, but the wrinkle recovery is better. When the CNTs content is 0.4% , the ZT value reached 2.99 × 10-9.

      Preparation and properties of waste textile regenerated felt materials
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  56-60.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170904506
      Abstract ( 726 )   PDF (2747KB) ( 133 )   Save
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      In order to reduce the environmental pollution caused by waste textiles, improve recycling rate of waste textiles and maximize the utilization of resources, the recycled polyesters, recycled hemp fibers and the low melting point polyester staple fibers were used as raw materials to produce regenerated felt based materials by the mechanical carding and bot air bonding methods. The process was optimized by orthogonal test. The thickness, mass per unit area, grammes bulkiness, mechanical properties, thermal insulation and air permeability of the regenerated felt based materials were analyzed. The results show that the thickness of the regenerated felt based materials are ranged from 7 mm to 10 mm. The mass per unit area is from 300 to 450 g/m2. The bulkiness are 15 - 30 cm3/g, and the air permeability is 900 - 1 100 mm/s. The optimum process is: recycled hemp fibers/recycled polyester/low melting point polyester staple fiber with a mass ratio of 15:40:45, the temperature of 180?C, the heating time of 8 min and the pressure of 200 N. The regenerated felt based materials can be used as the substrate for automotive interiors and other functional materials.

      Durability of high strength polypropylene spunbonded needle punctured geotextile
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  61-67.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180102707
      Abstract ( 573 )   PDF (1303KB) ( 175 )   Save
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      In order to strdy the aging resistance and chemical crrosion resistance of high strength coarse denier polypropylene apunbonded needle punctured geotextile (HPP), samples were measured by theumo-oxidative aging, acid and alkali solution and pure water immersion. The effects of different temperatures and different chemical environments on their durability were studied and compared with the durability of ordinary polypropylene geotextiles (PP). The results show that the mass retention rates of HPP geotextiles after treating for 25 d are 99.06%, 98.85%and 98.10%, respectively, at 110?C,  120?C and  130?C. The retention rate of PP geotextiles after treating for 25 d is 98.89%, 98.78% and 97.78%, respectively. The retentionrate of longitudinal fracture strength of HPP geotextiles after treating for 25 d is 75.00%, 67.25% and 64.71%, respectively at 110?C,  120?C and  130?C. At the same temperature circumstance the retention rate of longitudinal fracture strength of PP geotextiles is 72.15%, 65.56% and 54.00%, respectively. The strength loss rate of HPP geotextiles treated by three kinds of olpuids is less than 5%, indicating HPP has good corrosion resistance. The expression of the thermal reaction rate of HPP geotextiles is fitted by Arrhenius theory, and the retention rate of HPP geotextiles predicted is 27.30% after 50 a.

      Film properties of starch sizing grafted by quaternary ammonium cations
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  68-72.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180203505
      Abstract ( 519 )   PDF (1224KB) ( 153 )   Save
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      In order to enhance the application property of starch used as sizing agent, starch-grafted 3-acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride (S-g-PATC) samples with different grafting ratios were synthesized by changing the mass ratio of weight ratio of 3-acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride (ATC) to acid-thinned starch (ATS). The molecular structures of ATS and S-g-PATC were characterized by Fourier transformation infrared spectrometry. The swelling power of S-g-PATC and the mechanical properties, the degree of crystallinity, the moisture regain of its film and the time required for breaking its film in water were studied. The results show that graft modification of starch by quaternary ammonium cation increases the swelling power of starch, reduces the degree of crystallinity of film, and enhance the moisture regain of film and the time required for breaking film in water. The graft modification of starch by quaternary ammonium cation enhancse the toughness of film, and improve the rigid and brittle properties of starch film and the desizing property of starch used as sizing agent. When the grafting ratio is increased from 2.8% to 10.6%, the breaking elongation of S-g-PATC film is increased from 2.56% to 3.92%, while the tensile strength is decreased from 28.04 MPa to 24.27 MPa.

      Cold plasma treatment and aging properties of aramid fiber
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  73-78.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180103406
      Abstract ( 658 )   PDF (4349KB) ( 141 )   Save
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      In order to improve the bonding performance between aramid fiber and resin matrix, the aramid fiber was modified by cold plasma in nitrogen gas.  The surface morphology, chemical composition, surface wettability and surface energy aging properties of the aramid fibers treated by nitrogen cold plasma were studied with the increase of deposition time. The fibers were observed by scanning electron microscopy, atomic force microscopy, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy and contact angle meter. The results show that the surface roughness of the fiber obviously increases after within 24 h treatment, the content of C on the fiber surface decreases and the contents of the N and O increase. The wettability changes from the hydrophobicity to hydrophilicity. The surface energy is improved. As time increases, the fiber surface remains rough. Non-polar group C—C and C—H increase, the polar group C—N, C—O and NH—C = O decrease, and the surface energy gradually reduces with the increase of contact angle, and finally tend to be stable. After 28 d, in comparison with the untreated fiber, the contact angle of the treated fibers reduces by 27.8°, and the surface energy increases by 87 %. This indicates that the cold plasma etching and modification of the surface are permanent.

      Influence of interpenetrating polymer networks thermosensitive gel on liquid moisture transfer of cotton fabric
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  79-84.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171203806
      Abstract ( 388 )   PDF (2269KB) ( 149 )   Save
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      In order to better apply macromolecule gel in textile modification field, a series of chitosan/poly (N-isopropylacrylamide) gels were synthesized by interpenetrating polymer network (IPN) technology. The cotton fabric was modified with the prepared gels using glutaraldehyde as crosslinking agent by two-dipping-two-padding process to improve the liquid moisture transfer property of cottonfabric. The influence of weight gain ratio on moisture penetrability and liquid moisture transfer capacity of modified cotton fabric was researched in detail. The results indicate that the modified cotton fabric has the low critical solution temperature at 34.45℃ and the IPN gel shows well combination with cotton fiber. The moisture penetrability of modified cotton fabrics with high weight gain rate are significantly improved when the temperature is higher than oow critical solution temperature. Furthermore, the modified cotton fabrics have excellent one-way liquid moisture transfer capacity. The modified cotton fabrics are better in liquid moisture transfer capacity at high weight gain ratio. The moisture penetrability and liquid moisture transfer capacity of cotton fabric are significantly improved with IPN gel modification.

      Biological enzyme combined anti-felting finishing of wool fibers
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  85-90.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170708807
      Abstract ( 663 )   PDF (3716KB) ( 153 )   Save
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      In view of serious environmental pollution of conventional chlorination wool anti-felting technology, unsatisfactory finishing effect of single peotease antifelting, long-time treatment and strength damage of one-bath-two-step enzyme treatment peocess, a mixed solution composed of a protease and a bio-enzyme activator was used to anti-shrinkage finish the wool to achieve an ecologically, fast, chlorine-free and felt-proof finishing. The wool fiber was treated with a mixed solution of tricarboxyl ethyl phosphine and protease 8.0 T, protease 2.5 L and protease 16 L respectively, according to the treated wool's breaking strength, elongation at break, and felt shrinkage ball density test results,combined with scanning electron microscopy observation and analysis of the scaly layer of wool after treatment, it was concluded that the anti-felting effects of the tricarboxyl ethyl phosphine combined with the three proteases in treating wool are significant, and the anti-felting effect of the protease 16 L is the best. The optimum process conditions obtained by orthogonal test optimization are as follows: the amount of protease 16 L of 1.8 g/L, the amount of tricarboxyl ethyl phosphine of 1.0 g/L, the processing temperature of 50 °C, and the processing time of 2 min.

      Preparation and photocatalytic properties of  polyester fabric loaded with titanium dioxide
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  91-95.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171204505
      Abstract ( 670 )   PDF (1971KB) ( 128 )   Save
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      In order to solve the degradation problem of printing and dyeing wastewater, a homogeneous coating method was used to mix nitrogen-doped titanium dioxide powder with PET solution and then load on the polyester (PET) fabric. The photocatalytic degradation efficiency and reusability of methylene blue doped aqueous solution of nitrogen-doped titanium dioxide loaded PET fabric under sunlight irradiation were studied. The experimental results show that the nitrogen-doped titanium dioxide supported PET fabric has good photocatalytic performance. After 150 min of sunlight irradiation, the degradation rate of the methylene blue solution containing the original PET fabric is only 8.2%, while the degradation rate of the methylene blue solution with the photocatalytic polyester fabric is increased to 94.8%. The degradation rae is still above 88% after 5 washed cycles, indicating good durability of the functional layers. In addition, the experimental study shows that photocatalytic polyester fabric has higher catalytic activity in alkaline solution with pH of 9.0 and in sunny weather, while the increase of concentration of NaCl solution and methylene blue solution will inhibit the photocatalytic reaction.

      Two-stage membrane concentration of Poly(vinyl alcohol) in desizing wastewater by membrane distillation and ultrafiltration
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  96-102.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180103007
      Abstract ( 719 )   PDF (3166KB) ( 109 )   Save
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      In order to promote the recovery  rate of sizing agents in the dyeing industry, a two-stage membrane treatment system consisting of membrane distillation and ultrafiltration process was developed to concentrate the poly(vinyl alcohol). The concentration performance of two-stage membrane process was investigated at different pollutant loading, flow rates and temperature. Meanwhile, the membrane fouling models were fitted, scanning electron microscope and water contact angle were applied to quantify the fouling of ultrafiltration membranes in poly(vinyl alcohol) concentration. According to the results, for membrane distillation stage, membrane of 0.22 μm PTFE, crossflow velocity of 0.34 m/s and temperature of 70 °C of feed side, crossflow velocity of 0.25 m/s and a temperature of 20 °C of permeate side are the optimal working conditions. In addition, the results show that the best fitting to experimental data corresponded to the complete blocking model followed by the blocking model for all the experimental conditions tested, suggesting the pore size of membrane is the key factor for ultrafiltration. Thus, for ultrafiltration stage, membraned of PVD (molecular weight cut off size of 100 000), pressure of 0.4 MPa and temperature of 70 °C are the optimal working conditions. Under these optimal conditions of two-stage membrane process, the chemical oxygen demand removal rate of the desizing wastewater achieved more than 95% and the concentration rate of poly(vinyl alcohol) in desizing wastewater is more than 7 times, which facilitates the further resource utilization.

      Adsorption properties of cross-linked amino starch onto methylene blue
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  103-110.  doi:10.13475/20171204808
      Abstract ( 603 )   PDF (4041KB) ( 173 )   Save
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      In order to obtain starch-based adsorbent with good adsorption capacity for methylene blue (MB) dye, cross-linked amino starch (ACSt) was prepared from corn starch as raw material by three steps of esterification, crosslinking and ammonolysis.  The products were characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, X ray diffraction and scanning electron microscopy. It was found that amino groups are introduced into the starch molecules, indicating ACSt is successfully synthesized. The crystallinity is reduced and the compact structure of particles is destroyed. The adsorption properties of ACSt on MB were investigated. The results show that in alkaline environment, ACSt shows good adsorption properties to MB. The adsorption behavior of ACSt on MB conforms to the pseudo second order kinetic plot and Langmuir isothermal adsorption model, indicating that chemisorption is the decisive step in the whole adsorption process and the adsorption process is mainly monolayer adsorption, respectively. Thermodynamics studies show that the adsorption is an exothermic, spontaneous and entropy reduction.

      Relationship between garment shoulder angle and characteristics of human body
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  111-115.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171100505
      Abstract ( 1100 )   PDF (2477KB) ( 280 )   Save
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      For the inconvenience and inaccuracy to measure garment shoulder angle, a regression relationship between garment shoulder angle and the main factors of human shoulder was presented. In order to obtain the regression relationship, the factor influencing garment shoulder angle was analyzed, body mass index (BMI) as an experimental parameter represents the shoulder thickness that influence the structure of the shoulder was determined, the relationship between the front and back garment shoulder angle and human shoulder angle as well as BMI was analyzed by SPSS. Experimental results show that different individuals are much different in their shoulder angles, and the left and right shoulder angle of most individuals are different. The values of the actual garment shoulder angle of different human shoulders substantially fluctuating within a range, and the difference is not as obvious as the human shoulder angle. Garment shoulder angle is linearly correlated with human shoulder angle and BMI, and the linear relationship is good, in which human shoulder angle is the most important factor affecting the garment shoulder angle and the influence is greater.

      Finite element model for evaluating pressure distribution of men's basic pattern on upper body
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  116-121.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170902306
      Abstract ( 636 )   PDF (8725KB) ( 155 )   Save
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      The finite element model was established to digitally evaluate the pressure when wearing men's basic pattern. The 3-D body measuring technology was adopted to acquire the point cloud data of men's basic pattern and the upper body. The assembly model of human body and man's basic pattern was established by reverse engineering software. Mesh generation, contact mechanics model of human body and basic pattern, and simulation calculation were in the finite element software. The simulation results show that the distribution of prssure and displacement between the base pattern and human body is obtained. And analyzing the pressure distribution can make conclusions that pressure value of middle shoulder is 2.102 - 4.134 kPa, pressure values of breast and back are 0 - 1.101 kPa, and pressure values of shoulder and neck point and shoulder point are 0 - 2.012 kPa. By pressure test, pressure value of middle shoulder is 3.14 - 3.20 kPa, pressure value of breast is 0.73 - 0.81 kPa, pressure value of shoulder and neck point is 0.54 - 0.61 kPa, pressure value of shoulder is 1.19 - 1.23 kPa, pressure value of back is 0.61 - 0.75 kPa. This illustrates that the model is available, and the result is correct and effective.

      Development and evaluation of functional underwear capable of relieving waist pain for aging population
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  122-127.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171004706
      Abstract ( 441 )   PDF (2993KB) ( 378 )   Save
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      In order to design functional underwear for daily wearing with the function of relieving waist pain, the Grounded Theory was applied to analyze the interview data abtained from the in-depth interview conducted with 17 target users. The design elements of functional underwear product were determined as follows: size fitness, natural fabric and function acting on the waist. According to ergonomic thinking and point position method in acupoint therapy for waist pain in Chinese traditional medicine, the function area was confirmed. Based on the area design, the tourmaline materials was manufactured in the function area by screen printing to achieve the stimulation of acupuncture points to relieving waist pain. It’s verified that the temperature of the waist of functional underwear rises by 2.78℃ by infrared thermal imager experiment. The visual analog scale (VAS) of clinical measurement was applied to evaluate waist pain in the wearing trials. Paired-samples T test was used to analyze the VAS score. The waist pain is significantly relieved after trialing for 15 d.

      Evaluation of abdominal support effect of pregnant women pants based on 3D motion capture instrument
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  128-134.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171200507
      Abstract ( 481 )   PDF (4573KB) ( 238 )   Save
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      In order to demonstrate the effectiveness of abdominal pants for pregnant women and their feelings when wear the abdominal pants, this study conducts a series of experiments taking the design structure of this kinds of pants as the breakthrough point. In particular, with the help of 3-D motion capture instrument, data on hip joint angle changes during exercise were collected for pregnant women. As a benchmark, the size of the maximum hip angle difference was comprehensively compared during the lower limb movement between pregnant women and non-pregnant ones using single factor analysis of variance and significance test, along with subjective evaluation experiments. Findings suggest that with the increase of gestational age, their abdominal circumference and pregnant belly weight increase. Consequently, the hip angle will increase when doing exercise. Therefore, the effectiveness of abdominal pants can be judged based on the corresponding hip joint angle data. That is, the smaller the hip joint angle is, the more effective of the abdominal pants is. Finally, on the basis of the existing style of pregnant women's abdominal pants, the improvement plan is put forward to help pregnant women to improve their quality of life.

      Customization of sports bra cup based on 3-D printing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  135-139.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171203405
      Abstract ( 991 )   PDF (2549KB) ( 344 )   Save
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      In order to make sports bra cup more fit and comfortable, a method was explored for building the sports bra cup model based on reverse engineering and 3-D printing the model for making cups. Firstly, the 3-D body scanner was used to obtain the point cloud data by scanning body form, then Geomagic Studio software was used to optimize the point cloud data and construct breast's NURBS surface, UG software was used to intercept the cup outline according to the bra cup style and body surface curvature and design the thickness value for the intercepted surface. During 3-D sports bra cup model printing process, the model slice was firstly created, and then with the principle of light curing, the 3-D model was printed.  Finally 3-D printing sports bra cup was achieved. The error between the surface of the 3-D printing sports bra cup and the surface of the body form was also analyzed. The results show that the average deviation of the surface reconstruction is 0.01 mm, and the precision of the 3-D printer is 0.03 mm. The research indicates that using 3-D printing technology with reverse engineering can produce fit cups, achieve female sports bra cup customization.

      Working mechanism of warp knitting yarn tension compensator
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  140-144.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171203305
      Abstract ( 613 )   PDF (1304KB) ( 333 )   Save
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      In order to obtain ideal warp tension dynamics, by regulating the tension spring and its tightness settings, based on investigations carried ort on the dynamics od yarn tension during the knitting process, analysis of the warp tension patterns under different compensations, as well as a study of the operation mechanism of the compensation device was carried out. Results show that the use of tension compensation device can compensate for yarn tension fluctuation. However, with the increase in the elasticity coefficient of the compensation device, the peak value of yarn dynamic tension also increases leading to excessie yarn tension variation resulting in yarn breakages which in turns asversely impacts production efficiency. However, it cannot be taken that the lower the elasticity coefficiency the better, as lower yarn tension leads to volatility in yarn tension, leading to peoduction defects such as drop stitches on fabric surfaces. The elastic coefficient of an ideal compensation device, therefore, needs optimum adjustment to ensure efficient production.

      Surface pretreatment method for surface plasmon resonance sensor for detecting bisphenol A in textiles
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  145-149.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171009205
      Abstract ( 522 )   PDF (1238KB) ( 119 )   Save
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      The bisphenol A in textiles and clothing has low molecular weight, that is kifficult to be accurately measured. The surface plasmon resonance (SPR) and solution competition method was used to detect it. In order to better bind bisphenol A and bovine serum albumin antigens (BPA-BSA) with sensing chips to generate amino groups, four factors including selection of the sensing chip, the modification of pH for the solutions, the ion concentration and the optimal concentration of BPA-BSA were taken into account. By controlling the variates of the four factors, the best condition for sensor chip to detect BPA was edtermined. The results show that the best amino-coupled effect of BPA-BSA occurs using carboxymethyl dextran assembly (CM5) chip at pH 4.5, the ion concentration of 10 mmol/L and the concentration of BPA-BSA of 50μg / mL. The pretreatment method is simple and efficient, and high specificity BPA an detected without precision purification. This method can be used in textiles for BPA detection.

      Theoretical and experimental analysis on heat transfer performance of dew point indirect evaporative cooler
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  150-157.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171204208
      Abstract ( 520 )   PDF (2229KB) ( 113 )   Save
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      In view of the optimization of the dew point indirect evaporative cooler structure, the cooling efficiency under different environmental conditions, the relationship between the air volume ratio and the cooling capacity, and the technical principle, structure, heat and mass transfer characteristics of three different dew point indirect evaporative coolers (composite , cross and countercurrent ) were compared and analyzed. At the same time, the three kinds of dew point indirect evaporative cooler were tested on the wet bulb efficiency, dew point efficiency, temperature drop range, cooling capacity and so on under the laboratory simulation conditions or practical applications. The experimental results show that under dry conditions, the wet bulb efficiency of the three dew point coolers can all reach above 100%, and the dew point efficiency is between 55% and 85%. In terms of the temperature drop range, the average dry-bulb temperature drop of the cross-type and composite dew-point coolers under standard drying conditions (dry bulb temperature of 38°℃and wet bulb temperature of 23℃) is about 15 °℃, and wet bulb temperature drop is at about 5.5 ℃, significantly better than that of the composite dew point cooler. At this point, the countercurrent dew point cooler energy effciency raio is 11.78, reaching the highest level.

      Design on pressure compatibility model of evenness roll
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  158-162.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171007805
      Abstract ( 688 )   PDF (2487KB) ( 138 )   Save
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      In order to improve the uniform distribution of rolling fluid, and reduce the color differences along the roll width, internal structures and working principle of the evenness rollers were described firstiy. The factors affecting the uniformity of the rolling liquid were analyzed. A finite element analysis model of evenness rolls was built with ANSYS/LS-DYNA software. Numerical simulations of the finite element model of roll system were carried out. Pressure distributions between the evenness rolls were analyzed. And then, several pressure schemes were designed within the bearing range of the rolling machine. A matching model between air and oil pressures of evenness rolls was established. Finally, experiments were carried out to compare the differences when air and oil pressures were taken according to matching values and empirical values, respectively. The results show that the average residual ratio is 7.3% when the empirical oil pressures are taken, while the maximum residual ratio is lower than 5% and the average residual ratio is 3.1% when the oil pressures are taken according to the air-and-oil matching model, which meets the requirement of the axial uniformity in the production.

      Surface generation algorithm of 3-D garment based on semantic analysis
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  163-167.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180100205
      Abstract ( 642 )   PDF (1888KB) ( 239 )   Save
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      In order to further improve the efficiency of 3-D garment design, a 3-D garment surface generation algorithm based on semantic analysis was proposed. Firstly, the geometric interaction semantics based on grid mode was analyzed, hten the 3-D garment surface generation algorithm and semantic analysis model was studied, and finally the feasibility of the proposed algorithm was verified by comparative experiments. The results indicate that the geometric semantic interaction models can be established to draft drawing and mapping grid map using the using the approximation fitting algorithm to fit the complete sketch line, and through smoothing, denoising, mesh stitching method to form 3-D garment surface integrity. In addition to the selected geometric model method, constraint model method and semantic analysis method comparative experiments, experiments, experimental results show that the peoposed algorithm efficiency is 45% higher than other mainstream algorithms, and the fitting accuracy is higher by nearly 15%, more suitable for the reconstruction of 3-D garment surface,  which verifies the feasibility of the proposed algorithm.

      Research progress in test methods of friction properties of fiber and its products
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  168-175.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171202708
      Abstract ( 611 )   PDF (1305KB) ( 397 )   Save
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      Aiming at effectively solving the problems caused by friction during fiber and its products production process to improve the overall performance of fiber and its products, the defects of fiber and its products caused by friction, research background and significance of frictional properties were reviewed. Three kinds of test methods for studying fiber and its products’ frictional properties, which are point contact, line contact and area contact, were illustrated from fundamental methods, application scope and the latest progress in detail firstly. And then some research results on fiber and fabric frictional properties were summarized. In conclusion, the study for frictional properties of fiber and its products needs the cooperation of multi-disciplinary teams in fields of materials, mathematics and textiles. With combined innovation of development of mesoscopic contact friction model and corresponding surface friction coefficient distribution method, and development of high-precision frictional properties testing rig by according to fiber weaving process, the research on frictional properties of fiber and its products can be improved.

      Research progress of computer color matching for colored spun yarn
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(11):  176-184.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180101409
      Abstract ( 921 )   PDF (1284KB) ( 269 )   Save
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      Aiming at the compared color matching principle of colred spun yarn and difficult prediction on matched colors, the application characteristics of several prediction models for color matching of colored spun yarn were summarized and analyzed. The calculation precision of Stearns-Noechel model, Kubelka-Munk theory and BP neural model are ideal, and the precision of Friele model is lower. The Stearns-Noechel model and the Friele model,however, need to solve unknown parameters which have a great influence on the prediction accuracy. The Kubelka-Munk theory still has a gap with the ideal conditions and the calculation is cumbersome. The BP neural network requires a large number of training samples to enhance the generalization ability. Finally, it is pointed out that the color matching of color spinning yarns should improve the accuracy of the conventional model, and also improve the method for solving the unknown parameters in the color matching model and seek a new color matching model. Meanwhile, the personalization of the company's parameter settings should be paid moer attention and the coloring fibers of the undiluted liquid should be standardized. The complicated calculation in color matching is simplified, and the computer color matching technology of the color spinning yarn is improved.