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Table of Content

    15 January 2022, Volume 43 Issue 01
    • Fiber Materials
      Preparation and study of pure biomass cellulose aerogels for flame retardancy
      LUO Xiaolei, LIU Lin, YAO Juming
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  1-8.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210907508
      Abstract ( 549 )   HTML ( 54 )   PDF (5606KB) ( 361 )   Save
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      In order to recycle textiles and enhance the green and low-carbon circular development, regenerated cellulose aerogels were prepared from waste cotton yarns, and the biomass tea polyphenol extracted from agricultural and forestry waste was deposited on the aerogel surface under the driving of water environment. The flame retardant cellulose aerogel (BTCA) was developed for pure biomass energy saving and heat preservation. The flame retardancy, thermal stability, thermal decomposition vapor and solid products, and flame retardant mechanism of BTCA were studied and analyzed by limiting oxygen index method, thermogravimetric analysis, thermogravimetric infrared spectroscopy and Raman spectroscopy. Because the biomass tea polyphenol deposits have an excellent antioxidant capacity, it can promote the dehydration and carbonization of cellulose molecular chain at the same time. Based on this, solid-phase flame retardant was achieved, and their thermal stability has been significantly improved. The limit oxygen index was as high as 32.7% and the cellulose aerogel could self-extinguish when leaving the flame.

      Synthesis and properties of bio-based liquid crystal copolyester fiber based on p-hydroxyphenyl propionic acid
      LI Longlong, WEI Peng, WU Cuixia, YAN Jinfei, LOU Hejuan, ZHANG Yifeng, XIA Yumin, WANG Yanping, WANG Yimin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  9-14.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210909606
      Abstract ( 389 )   HTML ( 21 )   PDF (4107KB) ( 118 )   Save
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      In order to improve the mechanical property and thermal stability of bio-based polymers, the bio-based liquid crystal copolyester derived from 6-hydroxy-2-naphthenic acid, p-hydroxybenzoic acid and p-hydroxyphenyl propionic acid(HPPA) were studied and successfully synthesized via the one-pot melt polymerization method, and the structures and properties of the spun fibers from the bio-based liquid crystal copolyesters were prepared by melt spinning. The results show that the prepared bio-based liquid crystal copolyester is a nematic liquid crystal polymer. Its melting point is around 200 ℃, and it decreases with the increase of HPPA monomer content. High content of HPPA leads to weak melting behavior, which is not conducive to crystallization. The copolyesters show good thermal stability and high char yield, and the temperature corresponded to 5% weight loss and char yield at 700 ℃ are above 370 ℃ and 30%, respectively. The surface of the as spun copolyester fiber is smooth and uniform, the cross section has an obvious fibrillar structure. The fibers have good mechanical properties, which are negatively related to the content of HPPA.

      Carbon fiber reinforced epoxy based vitrimer composite material closed-loop recycling
      LI Bo, FAN Wei, GAO Xingzhong, WANG Shujuan, LI Zhihu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  15-20.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210905306
      Abstract ( 451 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (4820KB) ( 165 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problem of low recycling efficiency and single recycling component of continuous carbon fiber reinforced resin matrix composite material (CFRP), methyl tetrahydrophthalic anhydride, tetrahydrophthalic anhydride, catalyst zinc acetylacetonate and epoxy resin were used to prepare a high-performance epoxy based vitrimer resin and its composite material. A closed-loop recycling was conducted involving the transesterification reaction of ethylene glycol (EG) at 180 ℃. Ethylene glycol participates in the transesterification reaction, and the composite material is recovered in a closed loop at 180 ℃. The apparent structure, thermal stability and mechanical properties of raw resin, carbon fiber and CFRP, recovered resin, carbon fiber and CFRP prepared from recovered resin and recovered carbon fiber were characterized and analyzed. The results show that the recoverying method can completely recover and reprocess the resin and carbon fiber of the composite material. After recycling, the retention rate of the tensile strength of the resin is 90.1%, the retention rate of the tensile strength of the carbon fiber monofilament is 98.9%, and the retention rate of the flexural strength and shear strength of CFRP are 86.2% and 86.7%, respectively.

      Biomass-derived magnetic carbon composites towards microwave absorption
      QIANG Rong, FENG Shuaibo, LI Wanying, YIN Linzhi, MA Qian, CHEN Bowen, CHEN Yi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  21-27.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210910807
      Abstract ( 426 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (4926KB) ( 117 )   Save
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      In response to the national carbon neutrality and carbon emission peak target and in order to solve the potential preparation problem of magnetic carbon composite, it proposed a new biomass-derived strategy for the preparation of carbon-based microwave absorption composites. The iron/mushroom precursor was obtained by absorbing iron ions, where mushrooms acted as the raw material and iron salt severed as metal source. The Fe/Fe4N/C composites were acquired by controlled high-temperature pyrolysis, and the phase structure, morphology, thermal stability, magnetic stability, physiochemical properties and microwave absorption performance of composites were analyzed and discussed. It was proved that the increased pyrolysis temperature would improve the crystallinity of magnetic nanoparticles, and that the increases in Fe4N content would induce the decrease of coercivity and saturation magnetization simultaneously. The high pyrolysis temperature was conductive to the transformation from amorphous carbon to microcrystalline graphite,inducing the increased degree of graphitization degree of carbon components. The Fe/Fe4N/C composite pyrolyzed at 700 ℃ was regarded as the best microwave absorber. With a composite thickness being 4 mm, the effective bandwidth of microwave that could be absorbed reached to 6.64 GHz, from 4.00 to 10.64 GHz. The appropriate impedance matching and synergistic enhancement of dielectric loss and magnetic loss were considered to be responsible for the intensified microwave absorption. It is believed that the research provides a reference for the preparation of magnetic carbon microwave absorbers, and promotes the popularization and application of biomass-derived method.

      Preparation and properties of sound absorbing composites based on use of waste straw/polycaprolactone
      LÜ Lihua, LI Zhen, ZHANG Duoduo
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  28-35.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210901708
      Abstract ( 358 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (6039KB) ( 251 )   Save
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      In order to improve the utilization rate of waste straws and broaden its application field, waste straw/polycaprolactone sound absorption composites were prepared by hot pressing with waste straw as reinforcement material and polycaprolactone as matrix material. Under the hot pressing temperature of 120 ℃, pressure of 10 MPa and hot pressing time of 20 min, the influences of straw mass fraction, composite density, composite thickness and thickness of rear air layer on sound absorption performance of the composite were investigated by experiment. The results shows that when the straw mass fraction was 30%, the composite density was 0.450 g/cm3, the composite thickness was 1.5 cm, and the thickness of the rear air layer was 3.0 cm, the waste straw/polycaprolactone sound absorption composite demonstrates excellent sound absorption performance for 100-6 300 Hz frequency, with the average sound absorption coefficient of 0.50, the noise reduction coefficient of 0.50, and the maximum sound absorption coefficient 0.71, which indicate grade Ⅲ of sound absorption performance. The research revealed that the sound absorption mechanism is based on porous structure of the composites.

      Research progress in all-fiber solar induced interface evaporation system to assist desalination with zero carbon emission
      DING Qian, DENG Bingyao, LI Haoxuan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  36-42.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210902207
      Abstract ( 399 )   HTML ( 23 )   PDF (5394KB) ( 201 )   Save
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      Solar driven interfacial steam generation (SISG) is a desirable strategy to enhance solar to steam efficiency by transferring sunlight into heat and inspiring seawater vaporization at interface between liquid and gas. SISG has been recognized as a promising strategy to solve water shortages in an eco-friendly and low-cost way, due to the fact that it just utilizes sea water and solar energy, both of which are considered as inexhaustible resources on the earth. However, there still are many challenges, including low evaporation rate, difficulty in collecting vapor and poor antibiofouling. Recent advances in SISG and the unique advantages of fiber based evaporator in this area were reviewed and demonstrated. The structure-function relationship between fiber based floating structure and light absorber were analyzed from the perspectives of design and fabrication of light absorber and floating structure, water transportation, as well as thermal management and their mechanisms. Then, pure organic fiber with photothermal properties for SISG was focused on, and future development and challenges of the SISG was discussed. It is believed that the fiber-based evaporation system will play its role in seawater desalination without causing further carbon emission.

      Research progress in flame retardant cellulose aerogel
      FANG Yinchun, SUN Weihao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  43-48.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210904506
      Abstract ( 582 )   HTML ( 40 )   PDF (5963KB) ( 270 )   Save
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      In order to improve the flame retardancy of cellulose aerogel and broaden its application field, the classification and preparation of cellulose aerogel are introduced. The research progress in inorganic flame retardants, organic flame retardants and organic/inorganic composite flame retardants were reviewed. The advantages and disadvantages of all types of flame retardant cellulose aerogels were compared and analyzed, among which, organic/inorganic composite flame retardants have the advantages of both of two single flame retardants, showing high flame retardant efficiency, though there are also poor compatibility and complex preparation process problems. The future development trend of cellulose aerogel flame retardant research was prospected, and it was pointed out that the bio-based flame retardant with green, environmental protection, high efficiency and good compatibility would become the main research direction of cellulose aerogel flame retardant in the future.

      Research progress and prospect on biodegradable polylactic acid-based melt-blown nonwovens
      ZHU Feichao, ZHANG Yujing, ZHANG Qiang, YE Xiangyu, ZHANG Heng, WANG Lunhe, HUANG Ruijie, LIU Guojin, YU Bin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  49-57.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210910009
      Abstract ( 727 )   HTML ( 45 )   PDF (8827KB) ( 293 )   Save
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      Polylactic acid-based(PLA-based)melt-blown nonwovens have drawbacks such as insufficient flexibility, low heat-resistant temperature, poor electret durability, and single functionality, which limit their development and applications as high-performance adsorption and filtration materials. This paper comprehensively reviewed the research progress of PLA-based melt-blown nonwovens focusing on raw material design, processing and applications. It introduced the processing and molding methods of PLA-based melt-blown nonwovens, explored the modification of PLA-based melt-blown materials, including masterbatch modification (copolymerization/block, enhanced toughening, functional modification, etc.) and finishing modification (durable electret and functional finishing). The typical applications of PLA-based melt-blown nonwovens in the fields of air filtration, medical protection, health care, tissue engineering, cleaning and wiping, oil absorption and warmth are explained. The development trends of PLA-based micro-nano scale melt-blown fiber, multi-component, composites, durable electret, function and intelligence are prospected, so as to provide theoretical and technical reference for development of PLA-based melt-blown nonwovens with high quality and high value.

      Textile Engineering
      Analysis of new five-element-integration spinning technology based on human-machine-material-method-environment for carbon neutralization
      XIA Zhigang, XU Ao, WAN Youshun, WEI Jiang, ZHANG Huixia, TANG Jiandong, ZHENG Minbo, GUO Qinsheng, DING Cailing, YANG Shengming, XU Weilin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  58-66.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210909310
      Abstract ( 911 )   HTML ( 73 )   PDF (8713KB) ( 437 )   Save
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      Conventional spinning process is characterized by its long scattered processes and labor intensiveness, causing problems such as high energy consumption per unit production, poor product consistency, and high operating cost. In addition, multiple-type-fiber spinning leads to difficulty in fiber recycling from raw materials and resultant products. As an effort to achieve the goal of carbon peaking in 2030 and carbon neutrality in 2060, this paper establishes a low-carbon spinning strategy as carbon neutralization spinning by integrating human-machine-material-method-environment. In specific, the intensive, simple and the extensive types of low-carbon spinning technologies were analyzed. The analysis results show that after comparison with conventional ring spinning, the intensive intelligent technology achieves low-carbon and high-quality spinning by reducing operation costs by 32.67%, production energy consumption per unit by 17.5%, and product defect rate by 61.54%, effectively addressing the problems in the spinning sector. The simple type can shorten or eliminate steps in the spinning process, achieves spinning speed as high as 550 m/min, realizing the goal of efficiency-improvement and emission-reduction. The extensive type spinning develops a front-end raw material functional recycling to change waste into treasure, reducing energy and emission. The extensive type also develops medium-end carbon-nesting spinning to produce green functional yarns, and resultant manufacturing technology can be used for producing cooling, heat-insulting functional yarns for green terminal textiles.

      Research progress of green and low-carbon knitting technology
      JIANG Gaoming, ZHOU Mengmeng, ZHENG Baoping, ZHENG Peixiao, LIU Haisang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  67-73.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20211000607
      Abstract ( 909 )   HTML ( 74 )   PDF (6609KB) ( 640 )   Save
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      With the introduction of various environmental protection policies, strengthening the concept of sustainable green and low-carbon knitting technology becomes imperative in the whole production process by reducing energy consumption and environmental pollution from knitting processes. Considering every step in the knitting process from fabric design to selecting fiber raw material, preparing and forming fabric, green low-carbon knitting technology will reduce energy consumption and pollution in the production process. On this basis, this paper discusses principally the impact of technological innovation on energy conservation and emission reduction in five areas including production technology of short-flow knitting products, the technology of dye-free knitting jacquard, reinforcing technology of lightweight knitting structure, production technology of low energy knitting equipment, and virtual reality technology of pattern-free knitting. It is recommended to further promote the application of green and low-carbon knitting technology and build a green and low-carbon cycle development system for the knitting industry.

      Quality and performance of biomass fiber/pineapple leaf fiber multi-component blended yarn
      MIN Xiaobao, PAN Zhijuan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  74-79.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210908806
      Abstract ( 429 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF (4827KB) ( 98 )   Save
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      Pineapple leaf fibers are thick, long, straight, and with branches on the surface, leading to poor quality of pure spun yarn. In order to improve its spinnability, the silk spinning system was employed to blend pineapple leaf fiber with some biomass fibers to prepare 16.7 tex×2 two-component yarns and 14.3 tex×2 three-component yarns, the selected biomass fibers including spun silk, wool, chitosan fiber, Lyocell fiber and polylactic acid (PLA) fiber. The mechanical properties, evenness and hairiness of the yarns were evaluated, and the results show that the spun yarns have high breaking strength, good evenness and low hairiness, which can be used to develop medium to high grade woven fabrics and can be applied to clothing making. Among the two-component blended yarns, the performance of pineapple leaf fiber/spun silk (mass ratio:85∶15) is the best, with breaking strength being(21.9±2.3)cN/tex, the hairiness value 3.61 mm/cm, and the evenness CV value 18.05%. Among the three-component blended yarns, the performance of pineapple leaf fiber/spun silk/Lyocell fiber (mass ratio:50∶30∶20) is the best, whose breaking strength is(19.9±1.3)cN/tex, the hairiness value 3.26 mm/cm, and the evenness CV value 14.03%.

      Multi-objective optimization of spinning process parameters based on nondominated sorting genetic algorithm II
      SHAO Jingfeng, SHI Xiaomin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  80-88.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210805609
      Abstract ( 321 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (6537KB) ( 61 )   Save
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      In order to optimize of parameters of the spinning production process and to reduce energy consumption, an nondominated sorting genetic algorithm II (NSGA-II) algorithm-based multi-objective optimization method was proposed. By analyzing the spinning process, the process parameters that significantly affect the quality and energy consumption of spun yarn were identified, and the key quality evaluation indexes for evaluating the quality of spun yarn were extracted. The quality evaluation indexes were transformed into comprehensive quality indexes by combining the gray correlation theory, while the correlation relationship between the process parameters and comprehensive quality indexes and carbon emission is fitted by using the second-order response surface method, leading to the establishment of the multi-objective optimization model for spinning process parameters. The NSGA-II algorithm was used to optimize the model, and the optimal process parameters were obtained. The results demonstrate that the quality evaluation indexes were improved using the optimized process conditions, with a reduction carbon emission by 5.77% on average compared with the original conditions.

      Study on low-carbon and energy-saving cold pad-batch bleaching treatment of cotton spunlaced nonwoven
      SUN Ting, ZHANG Ruquan, TANG Zijie, TU Hu, HU Min
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  89-95.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210909107
      Abstract ( 375 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (5196KB) ( 97 )   Save
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      As a bid to achieve the carbon neutrality and carbon emission peak in the textile industry, the influence of weight loss, water absorption, whiteness, residual pH value and COD value ws investigated by analysing alkali oxygen concentration, cold pad-batch time, hydrogen peroxide activator concentration, different treatment methods, as well as the microstructure of cotton spunlaced nonwoven fabrics. The results showed that the production cycle of hydrogen peroxide activator cold pad-batch was 4 h shorter than that of alkali oxygen cold pad-batch, and in addition the temperature was 60 ℃ lower than high temperature alkali oxygen process and whiteness was only decreased by 0.41%. The COD value increased by only 104 mg/L, with both the residual pH value and foam height meeting the requirements. Cold pad-batch bleaching technique with the advantages of low carbon and energy saving demonstrated great potential for replacing the high-temperature alkaline oxygen treatment process.

      Research progress in resource recycling based on waste textiles
      HAN Fei, LANG Chenhong, QIU Yiping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  96-105.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210901510
      Abstract ( 1025 )   HTML ( 66 )   PDF (9366KB) ( 410 )   Save
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      With aim to achieve the recycling of waste textiles and promote the construction of closed-loop system of textile industry chain, the conventional recycling framework of waste textiles was summarized based on the existing achievements. The resource recycling methods including primary recycling, physical recycling and chemical recycling were examined, and the advantages and disadvantages of each recovery process were discussed. At the same time, the research progress in the recycling process of single component fiber such as cellulose fiber, polyester fiber, protein fiber, and the typical blended textiles were described. Furthermore, the research progress in the preparation of functional materials based on waste textiles, and their applications in fields such as sound insulation materials, foam materials, solar evaporation and capacitive materials were introduced. Finally, the review pointed out that the comprehensive evaluation system of waste textiles is the key to increase speed and improve quality of resource recycling and to achieve industrial production.

      Circular economy in European Union textile industry chain and key issues of waste textiles treatment
      YANG Xing, LI Qingzhou, WU Min, ZHOU Yongkai
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  106-112.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210804507
      Abstract ( 661 )   HTML ( 32 )   PDF (6476KB) ( 303 )   Save
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      The contradiction between waste textiles and green sustainable development is becoming increasingly prominent under the vision of carbon neutrality. The textile industry should not only focus on the treatment of end-of-life waste textiles, but also reduce the negative impact on the environment from the industrial chain. Due to the systematic and comprehensive impact of carbon footprint, carbon emission reduction measures should be based on the industrial chain and textile life cycle. The European Union (EU) has a series of measures to achieve circular economy and deal with waste textiles, which are of reference significance. The EU's relevant situation was explored in three aspects, i.e., the current situation and challenges of the EU textile industry, the sustainability in the textile industry chain, and the disposal and key issues of waste textiles. The enlightenment of the EU's experience to the policy making in China was also discussed. Inspired by the carbon footprint accounting method of the life cycle assessment, the textile industry chain was divided into four stages: material selection, design, production and sales, and end-use to discuss green and low-carbon measures, and the response method of waste textiles is reuse and recycling. The key issues in processing waste textiles are classification and sorting, recycling quality and safety, extended producer responsibility and labeling system.

      Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals
      Key technologies supporting low-carbon emissions in dyeing and finishing of textiles
      JI Bolin, WANG Bijia, MAO Zhiping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  113-121.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210910209
      Abstract ( 1067 )   HTML ( 104 )   PDF (8352KB) ( 536 )   Save
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      In order to understand clearly the technological breakthrough and current situation of the dyeing and finishing industry for low-carbon emission and to discover the technological advance and developing trend, this paper reviews the related technologies and research progress. It started by introducing energy-saving and emission-reducing technologies, smart functional textiles, advanced green dyeing and finishing equipment and systems, and wastewater treatment and recycling, as well as the technical performance and their effects on the low-carbon emissions. Recent years have witnessed an explosion of technological breakthroughs in the traditional processing methods, and the textile industry has kept pace with the cutting-edge techniques such as the smart temperature-regulating clothing. Through multi-dimensional efforts, it will benefit to promote the continuous technological innovation, enhance the industrial value, and reduce the environmental impact. The review concluded that the dyeing and finishing industry can achieve the green and low-carbon circular economic development, and contribute to our country's goal of peaking carbon dioxide emission and reaching carbon neutrality.

      Technology progress and application prospect of non-aqueous medium dyeing systems
      PEI Liujun, SHI Wenhua, ZHANG Hongjuan, LIU Jinqiang, WANG Jiping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  122-130.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210909909
      Abstract ( 881 )   HTML ( 66 )   PDF (8205KB) ( 380 )   Save
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      In order to achieve dyeing of hydrophilic fibers such as cotton textile with reactive dyes with salt-free, high fixation rate and zero sewage discharge, the problems call for urgent attention in traditional water base were firstly reviewed and analyzed. As the second step review, the less water/water-free dyeing technologies were summarized. The results revealed that these new dyeing technologies of reactive dyes have yet solved the problems of large water consumption and large discharge of wastewater. On this basis, the reactive dyeing in silicone non-aqueous dyeing system was reviewed, including the definition and serviceability of dyeing in non-aqueous medium, the basic requirements of dyeing medium, and further introduced the concept of non-aqueous medium dyeing. The applicability and basic requirements of the medium, the dyeing performance of cotton fiber in non-aqueous medium dyeing system, and the industrialization development were introduced. Finally, the dyeing technology of non-aqueous medium was summarized and prospected. It is believed that the key technology of non-aqueous dyeing would not only solve the problems of high pollution and high emission of cotton textile dyeing, but also the energy consumption and cost of dyeing have been further reduced. This dyeing technology is expected to change the image of serious environmental pollution in the traditional dyeing industry, and to lead to a clean production and sustainable development for textile dyeing.

      Trend of environmental governance in textile industry aiming at carbon neutrality and emission reduction
      TANG Zhengkun, LIU Yanbin, XU Chenye, LIU Yanbiao, SHEN Chensi, LI Fang, WANG Huaping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  131-140.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210909010
      Abstract ( 709 )   HTML ( 66 )   PDF (8353KB) ( 333 )   Save
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      In the face of global fossil energy tightening, excess greenhouse gas emissions and severe water pollution control situation, reducing pollution and carbon emission is extremely urgent. As a traditional pillar industry in China, the development of textile industry constitutes as an important route for achieving the low-carbon green industry. In this review, this paper firstly analyzed the units of energy consumption and pollution emissions from the whole production chains. The main links of carbon emission and potentials for carbon reduction in the process of textile raw material, dyeing and finishing and finished product were dissected in details, and the cutting-edge technologies for the carbon reduction pollution control and resource recycling were summarized. Finally, based on exemplar case of Binhai Industrial Park in textile industry cluster in Keqiao District, Shaoxing City, the positive effect of industrial agglomeration on industrial carbon reduction was discussed from the perspective of environmental management. The future goals of pollution control and carbon reduction can only be achieved by the improvements in system, technology and management.

      Preparation and sizing properties of amphiphilic diblock grafted starch sizing agent
      LI Wei, ZHANG Zhengqiao, XU Zhenzhen, ZHANG Chaohui
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  141-146.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210909406
      Abstract ( 271 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (4304KB) ( 67 )   Save
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      In order to provide a new grafted starch for enhancing usability of starch sizing agent in warp sizing, amphiphilic diblock grafted starch [BBES-g-(PAA-b-PBA)] was prepared by activators regenerated by electron transfer for atom transfer radical polymerization with acrylic acid (AA) and butyl acrylate (BA) as monomers and 2-bromoisobutyl esterified starch (BBES) as macromolecular initiator. Taking acid-hydrolyzed starch and BBES as contrast samples, effects of the amphiphilic diblock grafted branches on the properties of starch paste and tensile property of starch film were discussed. The results showed that the paste properties and film elongation are demonstrated in the order of BBES-g-(PAA-b-PBA)>BBES>acid-hydrolyzed starch, indicating that introduction of the grafted branches can further improve the viscosity stability of starch paste, adhesion to polyester fibers and breaking elongation of starch film. With the decrease in the grafting ratio of AA while the increase in the grafting ratio of BA, viscosity stability exhibited a slight difference, the adhesion and film elongation demonstrated a gradual increase, whereas tensile strength of the film decreased monotonically.

      Effect of dyeing promoter on dyeing kinetics and thermodynamics of polybutylene succinate fiber dyeing with disperse dye
      WANG Chenglong, LI Lixin, WU Shaoming, CHAI Liqin, ZHOU Lan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  147-152.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210907106
      Abstract ( 342 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (4989KB) ( 61 )   Save
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      In order to develop polybutylene succinate (PBS) fiber disperse dye low-temperature dyeing technology, the role of dyeing promoters in the dyeing process was studied. Diethyl succinate was used to prepare dyeing promoter for the dyeing of PBS fiber with disperse dye. C.I. Disperse Red 60 was used to dye PBS fiber, the influence of dyeing promoter on the dyeing kinetics and thermodynamics of PBS fiber was studied, and dyeing mechanism of PBS fiber was investigated. The result showed that the dyeing kinetic equation of C.I. Disperse Red 60 on PBS fiber was in accordance with the quasi second order kinetic equation. Compared to dye without dyeing promoter, with the condition of dyeing at 70 ℃ with dye promoter, the equilibrium adsorption capacity of C.I. Disperse Red 60 on PBS fibers was increased, and the dyeing rate significantly was faster, the half-staining time was shortened, and the diffusion coefficient was also significantly increased. The addition of dyeing promoter played a certain role in promoting the dyeing of PBS fibers with disperse dyes. With or without dyeing accelerators, the dyeing of C.I. Disperse Red 60 on PBS fiber conformed to the Nernst type adsorption isotherm.

      Study on solubility of disperse dyes in supercritical carbon dioxide fluid
      HAN Zhixin, WU Wei, WANG Jian, XU Hong, MAO Zhiping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  153-160.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210904808
      Abstract ( 468 )   HTML ( 24 )   PDF (6205KB) ( 180 )   Save
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      To better screen disperse dyes suitable for supercritical carbon dioxide (ScCO2) fluid dyeing, a prediction method for assessing disperse dye solubility in supercritical CO2 fluid was established based on the use of state equation method, the group contribution method and computational chemistry method, achieving different conditions and different dye structures of disperse dye solubility in supercritical CO2 fluid. The results show that different working conditions affect the solubility of Disperse Blue 79 dyes, and lower temperature and higher pressure are more favorable to the dissolution process. From the perspective of molecular structure, the solubility of anthraquinone disperse dyes in supercritical CO2 fluid is lower than that of azo dyes because the anthraquinone dyes have better molecular flatness and are conducive to π-π stacking. The solubility of disperse dyes can be effectively improved by decreasing the interaction between molecules within dyes or increasing the interaction between dyes and ScCO2 fluid. It was concluded that introducing alkyl groups or groups containing C=O into the molecular structure of dye can improve the solubility of dye in ScCO2 fluid.

      Preparation and performance of steaming-free and washing-free printing paste with disperse dyes
      FENG Bingbing, LIU Yanchun, ZHOU Tianchi, BAI Gang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  161-166.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210102106
      Abstract ( 374 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (4627KB) ( 63 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problems of electrolyte sensitivity and color paste infiltration of synthetic thickener in printing process,thickener SX-608F, which is suitable for steaming-free and washing-free printing with disperse dyes, was prepared by screening and compounding. The viscosity, rheological properties, dye compatibility, water holding capacity was analyzed. The apparent color yield, soaping fastness and rubbing fastness of printed fabrics were tested and evaluated. The results showed that thickener SX-608F has the characteristics of pseudoplastic fluid, and the viscosity decreased with the increase of shear rate. The printing viscosity index was 0.197, the thixotropy was good and the viscosity recovery rate was 90.40%. In the frequency range of 0.1~500 rad/s, the storage modulus is larger than the loss modulus, the loss coefficient is less than 1. The printed products of SX-608F thickener have high apparent color yield compared to sodium alginate paste, the soaping fastness and rubbing fastness could reach more than 4 grade. The printing process did not require steaming and washing.

      Preparation and properties of waste cotton regenerative aerogel/warp-knitted spacer fabric composites
      LI Zhenzhen, ZHI Chao, YU Lingjie, ZHU Hai, DU Mingjuan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  167-171.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210910406
      Abstract ( 398 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF (4326KB) ( 152 )   Save
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      Aimed at the problem that cellulose aerogel has low strength, high brittleness, and poor toughness, cotton was used as the raw material and dissolved it in the sodium hydroxide/urea aqueous solution system to obtain cotton cellulose aerogel (CFA), which was then combined with the warp-knitted spacer fabric (WKSF) in-situ composite to develop a new type of CFA/WKSF composite. A series of researches were finally conducted to analyze the morphology and performance such as compression and insulation of the new type of material. The results show that CFA/WKSF composite maintains the porous mesh structure of aerogel, and the use of WKSF of chain and inlay structure increases the compression elastic module and yield strength of CFA by 180% and 450%, respectively, and WKSF of hexagonal mesh structure increases the compression elastic module and yield strength of CFA by 70% and 312%, respectively. With the use of hexagonal mesh structure of WKSF, the thermal conductivity of CFA/WKSF composite aerogel is grown only by 5%, indicating excellent insulation of the composite material.

      Preparation and performance of cotton based Ti3C2Tx oil-water separation membrane
      GAO Qiang, WANG Xiao, GUO Yajie, CHEN Ru, WEI Ju
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  172-177.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210910706
      Abstract ( 292 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (4453KB) ( 147 )   Save
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      In order to develop cotton based oil-water separation materials with simple process, reusable and high oil-water separation efficiency, and to achieve utilization of waste cotton fabrics with low energy consumption and high added value, hydrophilic flexible MXene nano sheet was applied to cotton fabrics by ultrasonic spraying. With the swelling effect of ionic liquid on the cotton fiber, the surface roughness of cotton fabrics were increased, the fixed loading rate of MXene on cotton fabrics were further improved, and the oil-water separation membrane was prepared. The surface morphology and wettability of oil/water separation membrane were analyzed by scanning electron microscope and contact angle tester. The oil/water separation efficiency, flux, acid and alkali resistance and recyclability of oil/water separation membrane of MXene were tested to evaluate its performance stability in application. The results showed that the separation efficiency of MXene oil/water separation membrane based on cotton fabrics reached 99.1% and remained 98.6% after 10 repeated tests. The separation efficiency has no obvious change in the range of pH 1~13, the contact angle of water in the air is 30°, maintaining 80.1% of the strength of the original cotton fabric.

      Apparel Engineering
      Chemical separation and recycling of waste polyester/cotton blended military training uniforms
      DONG Shuang, KONG Yuying, GUAN Jinping, CHENG Xianwei, CHEN Guoqiang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  178-185.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210910608
      Abstract ( 505 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF (5760KB) ( 194 )   Save
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      Polyester/cotton blended fabrics are widely used for military training uniforms and civilian military training uniforms. However, the military training uniforms, form a large amount of waste every year, leading to heavy waste of resources. This paper reports the alcoholysis of polyester from the polyester/cotton blended military training uniforms with zinc acetate, urea, and urea-zinc acetate eutectic system as catalysts, where the cellulose was also recycled through this acid hydrolysis. The influence of the catalyst type and dosage, and the reaction temperature and time on the alcoholysis efficiency of polyester was explored. Three different waste textiles containing polyester were used. The alcoholysis polyethene terephthalate(BHET) monomer and acidolysis cellulose were characterized using the fourier transform infrared, nuclear magnetic resonance, differential scanning calorimetry analyses. The results show that the polyester has good alcoholysis efficiency under the following conditions: zinc acetate as the catalyst, the relative mass fraction of waste military training uniforms was 0.6%, the reaction solid-liquid ratio was 1∶6, the reaction temperature was 196 ℃, and the reaction time was 3 h. White cellulose was obtained and the goal of separating and recycling different components of waste military training uniforms was achieved.

      Typical model for recycling of used clothes and analysis of environmental impact
      JIANG Tao, ZHOU Li, WANG Lin, CHENG Weizhao, ZHOU Anzhan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  186-192.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210402907
      Abstract ( 445 )   HTML ( 23 )   PDF (5448KB) ( 186 )   Save
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      In order to promote the recycling of domestic used clothing and quantify its environmental impact, this study introduces and analyzes a typical model for used clothing recycling and resource reutilization led by brand companies, employing the life cycle assessment method. By delineating the system boundary, a calculation method for the environmental impact was constructed, and the environmental impact was calculated through data collection and quantitative analysis. Studies have shown that the recycling of used clothing has obvious impact on environment. Brand companies have an active role in driving and promoting the recycling and utilization of waste clothing. While extending the life cycle of fiber resources, it can also promote the development of green design of industrial products. In addition, the calculation method proposed in this study can not only provide guidance for evaluating the environmental impact of the recycling process of used clothing, but also provide a reference for the environmental behavior evaluation of multi-life cycle products in the process of comprehensive utilization of fiber resources.

      Decision of carbon emission-reduction in garment industry under carbon trading and consumption subsidy
      ZHENG Lu, ZHANG Mingxia, HU Jueliang, HAN Shuguang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  193-200.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210910508
      Abstract ( 385 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (5743KB) ( 126 )   Save
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      With the promotion of the "dual carbon" target, the national carbon trade market has been launched without causing much attention. In order to make clothing enterprises better respond to carbon trading policy, the clothing closed-loop supply chain model was established, which was composed of raw material suppliers, manufacturers, retailers and recyclers. The impacts of government subsidies to consumers of remanufactured garment and manufacturers' investment in carbon emission reduction on the development of clothing industry, profits of supply chain members and the total supply chain carbon emission were analyzed and discussed. The study shows that the clothing enterprises could not sustain for a long time with the rise of carbon trading price without committing to emission reduction and without subsidies. The situation that only manufacturers invest in emission reduction is conducive to increasing the demand for traditional clothing and remanufactured clothing and the profits of supply chain members, but it also stimulates carbon emission. When emission reduction is combined with subsidy, the consumption subsidy of remanufactured clothing can improve the optimal emission reduction rate of manufacturers, enhance the competitive advantage of remanufactured garment, and can also reduce the total supply chain carbon emission. The research can provide reference for garment manufacturers' carbon emission reduction investment decision and government policy making under carbon trading.

      Impact of environmental claims of garment enterprises on consumers' purchase intention
      HOU Yiming, LU Cheng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  201-207.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210909807
      Abstract ( 420 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (6430KB) ( 253 )   Save
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      In order to improve consumers' recognition of different type's environmental claims of garment enterprises, this research examines consumers' responses to substantive environmentally related claims by the garment enterprises under different fear appeals. Independent-samples T-test and regression analysis were used to discuss the impact of the environmental claims on consumers' purchase intention as well as the mediating effects of perceived green value. Through two experimental studies, it was found that compared with the reference group that did not put forward environmental claim, the subjects have higher purchasing attitude towards enterprises that put forward environmental claim. However, there is no significant difference in purchase intention between substantive and related environmental claim conditions. The research also revealed that fear appeal can stimulate the difference of subjects' purchase intention between substantive and related environmental claim conditions. Under low fear appeal condition, there is no significant difference in consumers' purchase intention between related and substantive environmental claim conditions. However, under high fear appeal condition, subjects have higher purchase intention for substantive environmental claim than related environmental claim, with perceived green value as mediation.

      Green consumption policy system and its enlightenment to clothing green consumption
      SHAO Peng, ZHANG Yuanyuan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2022, 43(01):  208-215.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210906008
      Abstract ( 584 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF (6742KB) ( 362 )   Save
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      In order to reduce the environmental pollution caused by the textile industry and to promote the green consumption of clothing, this paper sets out to examine the targeted areas of green consumption policies issued on the national level. Nine dimensions including green products, green technologies, green value chains, green consumption education, green consumption incentives, green consumption subjects, sharing, and recycling, were refined through three-level coding. The research found that green consumption policy focuses on the stage of product production and recycling, which mainly concerns the fields of daily necessities and services, transportation and communications, and lacks attention to the field of clothing. The National Development and Reform Commission, the Ministry of Ecology and Environmental, the Ministry of Finance and the Ministry of Commerce have issued many green consumption policies. It is proposed that garment production enterprises should promote transformation and upgrading through green technology innovation, garment retail enterprises should encourage green consumption intention charge to green consumption behavior, and social and industry institutions should innovate the green consumption cooperation mode.