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    15 October 2023, Volume 44 Issue 10
    • Fiber Materials
      Fabrication and properties of polyamide 6/carbon black composite fibers via in situ polymerization
      LI Rui, WANG Mengke, YU Chunxiao, ZHENG Xiaodi, QIU Zhicheng, LI Zhiyong, WU Shufang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  1-8.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220505601
      Abstract ( 245 )   HTML ( 25 )   PDF (5184KB) ( 169 )   Save
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      Objective The improvement in polyamide 6(PA6)-based matrix properties by filling functional nanomaterials and application of PA6-based fiber have attracted much attention due to the recent rapid development in nanotechnology. Among all these filling nanomaterials, carbon black(CB)has been widely used as an ideal filling material due to its relatively small particle size and good compatibility with PA6-based matrix. In order to fabricate dope-dyed polyamide 6 filament with deep blackness, a series of PA6/CB composites and fibers were prepared via in situ polymerization and subsequently melt spinning.

      Method PA6/CB composites with carbon black content of 1%-3% were fabricated via in-situ polymerization by using highly dispersed aqueous carbon black slurry as modifiers, and melt-spinning were employed to achieve dope-dyed PA6/CB composite fibers. Microscopic structure, melting crystallization parameters and crystallization behavior and thermal stability of composites and/or fibers were determined using scanning electron micro-scope (SEM), differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and thermogravimetry analysis (TGA) respectively. Mechanical properties, orientation factor, chroma value and color fastness were then used to characterize the resultant structure and properties of fibers.

      Results Quenching the surface of PA6/CB composites resulted in tougher surface than pure PA6 composite, without significant agglomerations, indicating that the carbon black was dispersed reasonably well (Fig. 1). A mostly smooth quenching surface was observed with relatively lower carbon black content, while staircase structure was formed when content of carbon black reached 3.0%. Similar results were witnessed on the surface of PA6/CB fibers when a smooth surface without aggregation of carbon black (Fig. 2). Combined with the curves obtained by DSC and crystallinity parameters calculated with DSC data(Tab. 1), carbon black had hardly any influence on the melting peak of PA6/CB composites, as indicated by a single melting peak observed on these two second heating curves with no difference in melting point (Tm) between samples. Crystalline temperature (Tc) reached as high as 190.30 ℃, 13.66 ℃ higher than that of pure PA6, which was 176.64 ℃. Obvious improvement in crystallinity of PA6/CB composites came when carbon black content was set at 3.0%, which was 31.41% higher than that of the pure PA6 (Fig. 3 and Tab. 1). Degree of undercooling (ΔT) temperature reached as low as 28.78 ℃ in PA6/CB composites, which is about 15% less than pure PA6 when carbon black content is 2.5%. Weight loss of PA6/CB composites in the temperature range 100-600 ℃ were less than that of pure PA6, and all initial decomposition temperatures (temperatures when 5% weight had been lost) surpassed 390 ℃ (Fig. 4). In pure PA6, a characteristic diffraction peak around 21.5° indicated the presence of γ crystal formation. However, this peak disappeared upon the addition of carbon black. Instead, two characteristic diffraction peaks at around 20.1° and 23.3°-23.4° emerged, representing a more stable PA6 α crystal formation (Fig. 5). When using the same draw ratio in fiber spinning, the tensile strength reached its highest value at a carbon black content of 1.0%. However, as the loading content of carbon black increased, the tensile strength gradually declined, although it remained significantly higher than that of pure PA6. Notably, at a draw ratio of 3.2 and a carbon black content of 3.0%, the tensile strength increased by 20%. At the same time, the elongation at break decreased continuously(Tab. 3). Tensile strength and orientation factor went up with the increase of draw ratio in melt spinning procedure in the same carbon black content while elongation at break went down. The L value, representing blackness of PA/CB fibers, dropped from 91.57 in pure PA6 to as low as 17.13 with added carbon black. Higher linear density caused lower L value. Rubbing, washing and light color fastness of PA6/CB fibers all reached level 4-5 in fastness tests.

      Conclusion Carbon black disperses well in the matrix and on the surface of PA6/CB fibers which promoted a more stable PA6 α crystal formation, and it improves thermal stability of PA6/CB composites. In addition, carbon black provides a reinforcing effect of PA6/CB fibers, and the tensile strength is higher than the pure PA6 ones. Moreover, the blackness of composite fibers is getting deeper with the increase of carbon black content while remaining excellent color fastness. As a result, highly uniform dispersion of carbon black particles in PA6 matrix can be achieved via in-situ polymerization, resulting in high blackness and good color fastness of composite fibers, while maintaining great mechanical properties. All these characteristics are well-suited for the production of fine denier fibers. In general, in comparison to traditional dyeing processes, in-situ polymerization method has significant advantages in energy saving, color fastness, color uniformity, and fabric resilience. It is a simple production process with low cost and high efficiency, making it suitable for large-scale production of single-color fibers. However, there are challenges such as high polymerization reaction temperature, high requirements for long-term heat resistance of colorants, and difficulties in equipment cleaning during production switching, which need to be addressed in the future.

      Preparation and performance of titanium carbonitride/viscose fiber bundle as interface water evaporator
      LOU Huiqing, SHANG Yuanyuan, CAO Xianzhong, XU Beilei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  9-15.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220803201
      Abstract ( 133 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF (5118KB) ( 61 )   Save
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      Objective A sustainable supply of clean water is essential for the development of modern society, and using solar energy for desalination and sewage treatment has been considered as a promising solution to produce clean water. However, solar vapor generation technology often requires large installations and advanced infrastructure, leading to poor efficiency and high cost. In view of the above problems, this paper intends to design and develop a solar-interface water evaporator with simple structure and high efficiency, in order to capture and convert sunlight into heat and distil water from various sources into steam.

      Method A solar-interface water evaporator, with titanium carbonitride (MXene) as photo thermal conversion layer and viscose fiber bundles as water transport channels was designed to achieve efficient solar driven water evaporation based on the principle of solar-driven interfacial water evaporation. The thermal local performance of the solar-interface water evaporator, the effects of the number of MXene coatings and light intensity on its water evaporation performance, and the stability of the solar-interface water evaporator were investigated using the simulated solar system. A viscose fiber bundle assembly with a length of 3 cm and a diameter of 0.9 cm was used as a water transport channel, and the self-made MXene dispersion was uniformly coated on the surface of the fiber bundle assembly as a photothermal conversion layer. Moisture absorption performance and photothermal conversion performance of solar interface water evaporators were characterized by testing the core absorption performance of adhesive fiber bundle assemblies and the interface temperature of the photothermal conversion layer. The evaporation performance of solar interface water evaporators was characterized by testing water evaporation capacity, evaporation rate, and evaporation efficiency.

      Results Under the light intensity of 1 kW/m2, the temperature of the central point of the fiber bundle containing the MXene coating increased from room temperature (about 22.3 ℃) to 44.7 ℃ within 5 min(Fig. 3), and the temperature of the central point of the coating surface was higher than that of the surrounding area. Increasing the number of MXene coatings and light intensity was beneficial to improve the evaporation performance of the solar-interface water evaporator. When the number of MXene coatings was increased from 1 to 5, the evaporation rate and evaporation efficiency increased from 0.78 kg/(m2·h) and 39.4% to 1.47 kg/(m2·h) and 74.4% at 1 kW/m2, respectively (Fig. 4). During the test, the temperature of the water body remained basically unchanged, but the temperature of the water vapor increased rapidly within 0-5 min and became stable after 10 min, and the greater the light intensity, the higher the temperature of the water vapor, indicating that the system was in the heating state, the system basically reached thermal equilibrium after 10 min(Fig. 5(a)).When the light intensity increased from 1 kW/m2 to 5 kW/m2, the evaporation rate increased from 1.47 kg/(m2·h) increased to 6.45 kg/(m2·h), and the evaporation efficiency increased from 70.6% to 82.4% (Fig. 5(b)). However, with the increase of light intensity, the evaporation efficiency of the system did not show a continuous increasing trend, and reached the maximum when the light intensity was 2 kW/m2, and then decreased slightly. After 144 hours of evaporation test at 2 kW/m2, the evaporation rate and evaporation efficiency of the solar-interface water evaporator were still as high as 3.31 kg/(m2·h) and 82.1%, respectively, and decreased by only 4.1% and 3.5% compared with the initial value (Fig. 6). The data fitting results show that the evaporation rate and evaporation efficiency of the solar-interface water evaporator were 2.09 kg/(m2·h) and 56.9%, respectively, which remained above 60% of the initial value after 500 h.

      Conclusion The viscose fiber bundles have good hygroscopic properties, and the grooves and vertical arrangement on the surface of viscose fibers provide channels for water transmission. As a photo thermal conversion layer, MXene exhibits excellent photo thermal conversion efficiency and high solar energy utilization efficiency. The solar-interface water evaporator prepared in this experiment demonstrates good evaporation performance and stability, and the MXene/viscose fiber bundle shows a good application prospect in the field of solar water evaporation.

      Pore-forming mechanism via non-solvent volatilization induced phase separation and porous nanofiber preparation based on poly-l-lactic acid
      ZHANG Chengcheng, LIU Rangtong, LI Shujing, LI Liang, LIU Shuping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  16-23.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220503901
      Abstract ( 123 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (6150KB) ( 49 )   Save
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      Objective Poly L-lactic acid (PLLA) nanofiber membrane with porous fibers has excellent adsorption and filtration properties, and it is widely used in biomedicine, flexible sensors, filtration materials and other related fields. However, the preparation of the PLLA nanofibers with controllable pore structure and high porosity is still a challenge.

      Method With PLLA as raw material, chloroform and acetone as solvents, and bupleurum as additives, the multipored PLLA nanofibers were successfully prepared by phase separation method based on electrospinning technology. The microstructure, molecular structure and porosity of the PLLA nanofibers were characterized by thermal field scanning electron microscopy, fourier transform infrared and automatic surface and porosity analyzer.

      Results The surface of virgin PLLA fiber was relatively flat, with no obvious pores. When the mass fraction of bupleurum was set to 1%, 2%, and 3%, a large number of pore structures appear on the fiber surface in PLLA fiber membrane, indicating that the addition of bupleurum additive greatly improves the fiber porosity (Fig. 2). When the mass fraction of radix bupleurum was at 2%, the porous structure in the fiber became more obvious, and the porosity is 70.98%. Bupleurum did not participate in the change of the chemical bond of PLLA in the blending electrospinning process, and the structure of PLLA macromolecule did not change significantly, which did not affect the functional groups. The additional functional groups of bupleurum were not introduced into the PLLA fiber membrane, but affected the speed of phase separation, which was conducive to the formation of pore structure. Under the condition of keeping the mass fraction of bupleurum mass fraction at 2%, the pore structure of fiber membrane prepared with different solvent mass ratios was obvious(Fig. 5). As the chloroform/acetone mass ratio was changed from 5∶1, 6∶1, 7∶1 to 8∶1, the fiber porosity membrane gradually increases(Tab. 1). When the chloroform/acetone mass ratio was altered from 8∶1, 9∶1 to 10∶1, the fiber membrane porosity gradually decreases. This indicated that the solvent mass ratio is an important factor affecting the fiber porosity, and when the solvent mass ratio is 8∶1, the fiber membrane porosity reaches the maximum (82.09%). The porosity of fiber membrane was increased from 6% to 9%, it is due to the increase in concentration of the mixed solution, which increases the viscosity of the solution, causing the originally collapsed pores on the nanofibers to grow into normal pores during the spinning process(Tab. 2). The concentration of PLLA in the spinning solution was found an important factor affecting the fiber pore structure, because the main structure of the fiber is composed of PLLA, and the change of the concentration of PLLA will directly affect on the degree of entanglement of the polymer molecular chain, determining the viscosity of the solution and ultimately whether the spinning can proceed normally.

      Conclusion It is confirmed that adding bupleurum to NSS system can improve the porosity of fiber membrane. When the mass fraction of bupleurum is set at 2%, the mass ratio of chloroform to acetone is 8∶1, and the concentration of PLLA is 9%, the porosity of the fiber reaches the maximum value of 82.09%. When the porosity of the fiber membrane greatly increases, PLLA nanofiber membrane can be used in fields such as oily wastewater treatment and medical masks.

      Dissolution behavior and mechanism of down in lactic acid/cysteine deep eutectic solvent
      BU Fan, YING Lili, LI Changlong, WANG Zongqian
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  24-30.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220409201
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      Objective Down is a renewable natural keratin fiber material with abundant resources. However, down is difficult to be biodegraded in natural conditions, and a large amount of waste down causes serious environmental problems. At present, the technology based on chemical and physical extraction faces challenges such as low one-time dissolution rate and unstable process. Therefore, it is important to improve the one-time dissolution rate of down. Based on application of lactic acid/cysteine deep eutectic solvent in dissolution of down, this study is to evaluate the dissolution process and working mechanism of down waste.

      Method Down samples were washed to remove floating dust from the surface and dried until the mass was constant. Then, the samples were added into the lactic acid/cysteine eutectic solvent and dissolved assisted by magnetic stirring at 105 ℃. The dissolution solutions were extracted at different times and the morphological changes and spectral characteristics of the dissolved solutions were evaluated by ultra-depth of field three-dimensional microscope and ultraviolet visible spectrophotometer. The dissolved solution was poured into the dialysis bags for treatment at room temperature. The deionized water was replaced at an interval of 5 h, and the dialysis lasted for 72 h. When the conductivity of the dialysis water was reduced to less than 1.2 μS/cm, the down keratin powder was prepared by freeze-drying method from keratin solution. Down keratin obtained by dialysis and freeze-drying processes were analyzed and examined carefully by using high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), Fourier transform infrared spectrometer and X-ray diffractometer to detect the molecular weight distribution, chemical composition and aggregation structure of the prepared samples.

      Results The prepared lactic acid/cysteine deep eutectic solvent was a transparent liquid with a certain apparent viscosity. After placing it in dark environment for 10 h, the color and apparent viscosity of the solution did not show significant change and obtained material was exhibiting excellent stability. The grinding down fibers were immersed in a lactic acid/cysteine deep eutectic solvent and dissolved at 105 ℃. The down samples were gradually dissolved with the extension of dissolution time, and the color of the deep eutectic solvent changed to yellow while the transparency decreased (Fig. 2). The down sample was completely dissolved after 7 h, during which the down fibers were firstly swollen and then fractured until completely dissolved (Fig. 3). Furthermore, the deep eutectic solvent for dissolving down waste exhibited characteristic absorption at 371 nm, and the absorption intensity gradually increased with the extension of dissolution time of the down samples (Fig. 4). According to the high performance liquid chromatography test, the molecular weight of the down keratin was small, showing highest molecular weight as only 11 309 with a mass ratio of only 0.38%, the amount of keratin with molecular weight distribution from 1 470 to 6 522 u accounted for 57.93%, and the fraction with molecular weight less than 750 u reached 41.69% (Fig. 5). Characterizations using X-ray diffractometer and Fourier transform infrared spectrometer showed that compared with down fibers, the β-sheet diffraction peak intensity of down keratin was enhanced, the α-helix structure diffraction peak intensity was decreased, and no disulfide bond characteristic absorption peak was observed (Fig. 6 and Fig. 7).

      Conclusion The research confirmed that the prepared lactic acid/cysteine deep eutectic solvent is a transparent viscous liquid with stable viscosity. The dissolved solution can be completely dissolved in a short time. Down keratin was prepared by dialysis and freeze-drying techniques, and HPLC test showed that the molecular weight of down keratin was small. Compared with down fibers, the β-sheet diffraction peak intensity of down keratin was enhanced, the α-helix structure diffraction peak intensity was decreased, exhibiting no characteristic absorption peak of disulfide bond. The lactic acid component of lactic acid/cysteine deep eutectic solvent demonstrated a good softening, expansion and penetration effects on the cuticle, which promotes the expansion of down fibers. At the same time, the strong polarity of deep eutectic solvent breaks the hydrogen bond between the molecular chains of keratin, and disulfide bond breaks under cysteine reduction. The dissolution of down mainly includes fiber expansion, fiber stripping, fiber fracture and dissolution.

      Release properties of drug-loaded diacetate fiber based on supercritical CO2 fluid
      ZHU Weiwei, SHI Meiwu, LONG Jiajie
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  31-38.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220504901
      Abstract ( 108 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (2627KB) ( 34 )   Save
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      Objective Diacetate fiber is endowed with skin care function, distinctly improve its added value. Compared to traditional manufacturing processes, the supercritical CO2 fluid technology (SCF-CO2) is green, efficient and environmentally friendly since it solubilizes and carries the drug directly to the substrate to fabricate drug-loaded polymer without any solvent residue. In order to achieve the function to nourish skin it is important for the skin care diacetate fiber with good properties to release bioactive drug. Therefore, the influences of supercritical CO2 fluid processing conditions on the release property of skin care diacetate fiber were investigated.

      Method Resveratrol with antioxidant and antibacterial effects was utilized as the model drug. Resveratrol-loaded diacetate fiber was fabricated by SCF-CO2 under different temperatures and different pressures. The resveratrol-loaded diacetate fiber was placed in the release medium ethanol to investigate the effects of fluid temperature (70, 80, 90 ℃) and pressure (12, 16, 20 MPa) on the release amount and the release rate of resveratrol from resveratrol-loaded diacetate fiber for the build-up of the release models.

      Results When the SCF-CO2 temperatures were 70, 80, 90 ℃ respectively, the loading capacity of resveratrol on diacetate fiber were 0.358 × 10-4, 0.884 × 10-4, 2.78 × 10-4 g/g. It was found that the higher processing temperature of SCF-CO2 resulted in the higher loading capacity. The absolute release amount and absolute release rate were increased along with the increasing loading capacity. The cumulative release percentage and the cumulative release rate were decreased when increasing SCF-CO2 temperature(Fig. 1(c), Fig. 1(d)). About 40% resveratrol was remained in diacetate fiber when the release was in equilibrium under 90 ℃ of SCF-CO2 temperature. When the releasing time was 40 min a rise for release rate was witnessed under 70, 80 ℃ of SCF-CO2 temperature(Fig. 1(b), Fig. 1(d)), but the release rate rise appeared under 90 ℃ of SCF-CO2 temperature 50 min into the release process. When the SCF-CO2 pressures were 12, 16, 20 MPa respectively, the loading capacity of resveratrol on diacetate fiber were 0.592 × 10-4, 0.884 × 10-4, 2.177 × 10-4 g/g. The higher processing pressure of SCF-CO2 also resulted in the higher loading capacity. The corresponding absolute release amount and absolute release rate were also increased with increasing loading capacity. But when the release time is less than 50 min the absolute release amount and absolute release rate were higher under 12 MPa of SCF-CO2 pressures. The cumulative release percentage and the cumulative release rate were decreased when increasing SCF-CO2 pressure(Fig. 2(c), Fig. 2(d)). About 50% resveratrol was remained in diacetate fiber when the release was in equilibrium under 20 MPa of SCF-CO2 pressure. When the releasing time was about 30 min or 40 min a rise for release rate appeared(Fig. 2(b), Fig. 2(d)). Compared to Higuchi model and Korsmeyer-Peppas model, the fitting degree of the first-order release model was the highest upon the release curve of resveratrol-loaded diacetate fiber (Fig. 3, Fig. 4), with R2 above 0.93.

      Conclusion The absolute release amount and absolute release rate depend on the loading capacity of resveratrol on diacetate fiber positively. The higher processing temperature and the higher processing pressure of SCF-CO2 result in the higher loading capacity. The cumulative release percentage and the cumulative release rate show a downward trend with increasing SCF-CO2 temperature and pressure. The reason is that more resveratrol is penetrated into the interior of diacetate fiber under the swelling of SCF-CO2 to diacetate fiber. Moreover, the degree of swelling is strengthened with increasing SCF-CO2 temperature and pressure. As a result, a large amount of resveratrol is remained in the diacetate fiber when the release reaches equilibrium. The release behavior of resveratrol from diacetate cellulose is found more aligned with the first-order release kinetic model.

      Textile Engineering
      Relationship between specific work of rupture and blended ratio of two-component blended yarns
      ZHOU Yuyang, WANG Xubin, CAO Qiaoli, LI Hao, QIAN Lili, YU Chongwen
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  39-47.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220706901
      Abstract ( 172 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF (2739KB) ( 125 )   Save
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      Objective Compared with the tenacity, specific work of rupture can specify the resistance of yarn to breakage more accurately. The specific work of rupture for blended yarn is strongly connected with blended ratio in blended yarn, but little attention has been concentrated on this field. Therefore, in order to predict the specific work of rupture for two-component blended yarn with various blended ratios and guide the reasonable selection of blended ratio in production, the law of varying specific work of rupture for two-component blended yarn with blended ratio was investigated.

      Method Based on the analysis of rupture process for two-component blended yarn, some special points on the stress-strain curve of blended yarn were predicted using the stress-strain curves of pure spun yarns. By linearly connecting these points, a simple model of stress-strain curve for blended yarn was obtained. According to this model, expression of specific work of rupture was obtained. Cotton/viscose blended yarns were then spun and its tensile properties were tested so as to verify the established relationship in this paper. The data from previous literature were also used to further verification of the relationship's accuracy and applicability.

      Results The predicted and experimental values of specific work of rupture for cotton/viscose, cotton/bamboo pulp fiber, cotton/modacrylic, cotton/soybean protein fiber, cotton/high strength polyamide, hemp/polyamide, cashmere/wool and polyester/soybean protein fiber yarns were considered in this research (Fig.7, Fig. 9-15). The predicted relations of specific work of rupture with blended ratio are essentially consistent according to the experimental results. The prediction error of specific work of rupture by this expression was acceptable and similar to that of tenacity and breaking extension by predecessors' expression. There are two main reasons for the prediction error of specific work of rupture, which are the simplification of tensile curve and the prediction error of tenacity and breaking extension. The actual stress-strain curves of blended yarns are often smooth and convex, while the predicted curve is simplified as straight or broken line (Fig. 4 and Fig. 5). When the actual curve is convex, such as cotton/viscose blended yarn (Fig. 7 and Fig. 8), cotton/bamboo pulp fiber blended yarn (Fig. 9) and polyester/soybean protein fiber blend yarn (Fig. 15), the predicted value of the specific work of rupture will be smaller than the experimental. On the contrary, when the actual curve is concave, such as high proportion of modacrylic blended yarn and high proportion of wool blended yarn, the predicted values of specific work of rupture will be larger than the experimental values. On the other hand, if the predicted value of tenacity or breaking extension is larger than the experimental, the predicted value of specific work of rupture would also be larger than the experimental. On the contrary, the predicted values of tenacity or breaking extension was smaller than the experimental, such as cotton/soybean protein fiber (Fig. 11), cotton/high strength polyamide(Fig. 12) and hemp/polyamide blended yarns (Fig. 13), the predicted values of specific work of rupture would also be smaller than the experimental.

      Conclusion The relationship between specific work of rupture and blended ratio of two-component blended yarn is established in this paper. Then the applicability and reliability of the relationship are verified by the experimental data. It was found that, similar to the tenacity and breaking extension, the trend of specific work of rupture for blended yarn with the blended ratio varies around the critical blended ratio. This work provides a simple method for predicting the specific rupture work of blended yarn, and the prediction error is similar to that of existing expressions of tenacity or breaking extension and is within the acceptable range. Therefore, this study can provide guidance for blended yarn manufacture.

      Influence of number and twist of alumina yarn on its tenacity
      LI Jiugang, JIN Xinpeng, DENG Wentao, QIN Xue, ZHANG He, HUANG Cong, LIU Keshuai
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  48-52.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220603701
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      Objective Alumina yarn, known for its high temperature resistance, high strength, and high modulus, is extensively utilized in the aerospace industry. However, its characteristics, such as brittleness, splitting, and fuzziness, pose challenges to weaving and fabrication of fabrics. Therefore, this investigation studies the influence of different ply numbers and twist levels on the tensile strength of the alumina yarn with an aim to provide valuable insights for the weaving and fabrication of alumina materials.

      Method Two plies were twisted together, the thread linear density becomes twice that of a single ply, i.e. 150 tex. Following the same pattern, a total of five continuous alumina yarns with different thread densities of 75, 150, 225, 300 and 375 tex were produced. The yarns were divided into five groups. One group was left untwisted while the other four groups were twisted at the specified twist levels at 2, 4, 6, or 8 twists/(10 cm), respectively. They were then subjected to tensile testing using a high force tensile tester.

      Results The experimental results showed that as the ply count of the aluminum oxide fiber increased, the tensile strength of the yarn exhibited a curve of decreasing trend. This can be attributed to the increasing occurrence of fiber fracture within the aluminum oxide ceramic yarn at different time intervals (Fig. 3). After twisting, the yarns of different ply counts demonstrated a trend of increasing strength with increasing twist level, followed by a decrease. However, each yarn type reached a peak strength at a different critical twist level, although the magnitudes were similar. For the single aluminum oxide yarn, the maximum strength of 32.62 cN/tex was achieved at 6 twists/(10 cm). For the double strands aluminum oxide yarn, the maximum strength of 32.73 cN/tex was achieved at 6 twists/(10 cm). For the three and four strands aluminum oxide yarn, the maximum strength of 32.34 cN/tex and 31.25 cN/tex are respectively achieved at 4 twists/(10 cm). For the five strands aluminum oxide yarn, the maximum strength of 30.31 cN/tex was also achieved at 4 twists/(10 cm) (Fig. 4). The twist factor can reflect the angle of inclination between the fiber and the yarn axis, which can measure the degree of twisting of yarns with different thread densities. The corresponding twist factor is calculated according to the formula, with the twist factor as the horizontal coordinate and the strength as the vertical coordinate to draw a sample connection diagram, the strength of alumina yarn increases with the twist factor and then decreases (Fig. 5).

      Conclusion Alumina yarns showed the same pattern with increasing number of plies, 75 tex single yarn as well as 2, 3, 4 and 5 strands. With increasing number of plies, the breaking strength decreased continuously compared with single yarn, and the breaking strength decreased by 0.9%, 2.9%, 7.4% and 9.9% respectively. After twisting of alumina fibers with different number of plies, the breaking strength showed a trend of increasing and then decreasing with the increase of twist. The peak strength of alumina yarns with different number of plies was observed in twist levels from 0 to 8 twists/(10 cm), while the critical twist factor was in the range of 60-80.

      Preparation of shape memory polyurethane/polyamide covered yarn and properties of compression socks
      WANG Yaqian, WAN Ailan, ZENG Deng, WU Guangjun, QI Qian
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  53-59.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220506101
      Abstract ( 105 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (3829KB) ( 38 )   Save
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      Objective As a new functional knitted product, compression socks exert pressure on human legs through deformation, which can help lower limb vascular reflux and reduce tissue edema, thus improving lower limb venous pressure and promoting blood circulation. In order to improve the comfort of conventional compression socks, shape memory polyurethane filament (SMPU), whose glass transition temperature is close to the surface temperature of human body, was used to prepare and design SMPU compression socks with three fleecy ratios.

      Method In this paper, SMPU/polyamide(SMPU/PA) covered yarn and cotton yarn were used to knit the stocking part of the compression sock by a two-thread fleecy stitch. The glass transition temperature, shape memory properties, tensile strength and elastic recovery properties of SMPU and SMPU/PA covered yarn were evaluated. The influence of the fleecy ratio and the feeding tension of the fleecy yarn of SMPU compression socks on the pressure at the thinnest pressure test point B of human ankle was investigated.

      Results The DSC curves showed that the transition temperature of SMPU was 32.15 ℃(Fig. 5), which was close to the human body surface temperature of 34 ℃. While the shape fixity ratio and shape recovery ratio of SMPU were 90% and 91%, the shape fixity ratio and shape recovery ratio of SMPU/PA covered yarn were 85% and 89%, respectively. The elastic recovery rate and breaking strength of SMPU/PA covered yarn were increased by 24.76% and decreased by 18.56% while the pressure of the stocking part of the SMPU compression sock increased by 16.26% when the test temperature was above glass transition temperature compared with that below glass transition temperature. The pressure test data showed that at a feeding tension of 6 cN, the compression sock with a fleecy ratio of 1∶3 had a maximum pressure increase of 11% compared to that with a fleecy ratio of 1∶1(Fig. 6). A long float stitch allowed more room for the internal stresses stored in the SMPU to be released, and the SMPU could reach the maximum variation in length, resulting in the largest pressure. At a fleecy ratio of 1∶3, the pressure of the SMPU compression sock with a feeding tension of 8 cN was increased by 30% compared to that of 4 cN. When the feeding tension was increased, the content of SMPU/PA covered yarn fed into the sock was risen, and thus the pressure of the compression sock increased. When the fleecy ratio was 1∶3 and the yarn feeding tension was 8 cN, the maximum pressure of SMPU compression socks reached 2 841 Pa.

      Conclusion The shape memory performance of SMPU can be triggered by body surface temperature. Both SMPU and SMPU/PA covered yarn have good shape memory performance that are suitable for fabrics and clothing. The SMPU compression socks are easier to wear because SMPU can fix large deformation and the deformation can recover by internal stress release after the temperature rise. When the fleecy ratio of the two-thread fleecy in the stocking part is 1∶3 and the feeding tension of the fleecy yarn is 8 cN, the SMPU/PA content is the highest, and the float length is the longest, and the pressure of the socks knitting parameter will be the highest. The pressure of the SMPU compression socks in this study meets the requirements of FZ/T 73031—2009 for the thinnest pressure test point B of the ankle circumference.

      Prediction of measuring error of bobbin winding density based on grey system theory
      ZHOU Qihong, HAN Weilong, CHEN Peng, HONG Wei, CEN Junhao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  60-67.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220505001
      Abstract ( 96 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (2642KB) ( 26 )   Save
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      Objective In order to improve the measurement accuracy of the density measurement method for package yarn winding using laser scanning modeling, a prediction method for winding density measurement error based on grey system theory was proposed. By analyzing the changes in measurement errors obtained after adjusting measurement parameters in the actual production process, it can be known that the impact of new measurement parameters on the measurement errors of winding density. Improving the measurement accuracy of non-contact winding density measurement methods is very in line with the current demand for high-quality and efficient production.

      Method By analyzing the correlation between pulse frequency, sampling period, and parameter K with measurement error through grey correlation analysis, the modeling parameters meeting the requirements of grey modeling were obtained. According to the characteristics that the actual modeling structure was nonlinear and the elements in the modeling factor sequence changed greatly, the optimized GM (1, N) (grey power model) was obtained by introducing background value optimization and fractional order accumulation based on the traditional multivariable GM (1, N) power model, and then by combining particle swarm optimization algorithm with power index adaptive optimization to establish PSGM (1, N) (particle swarm optimization of grey power model), and by using actual collected data to verify the modeling accuracy.

      Results In order to compare and analyze, a classic multivariable GM (1, N) model, a traditional multivariable GM (1, N) power model and a multivariable PSGM (1, N) power model were established to predict the measurement errors in winding density of three different specifications of bobbin yarns. The modeling accuracy and prediction accuracy of these three models were analyzed and compared. In terms of modeling accuracy or model prediction, the optimized multivariate PSGM (1, N) power model had significantly higher modeling and prediction accuracy than the other two models. Combining the predicted measurement error values, the winding density measurement values were corrected to obtain more accurate winding density values. The experimental results showed that compared to the traditional multivariate GM (1, N) power model, the prediction accuracy of the winding density measurement error of the PSGM (1, N) power model was improved by 48.6%, and the measurement accuracy of the laser scanning modeling method was improved by 11.7%.

      Conclusion In view of the fact that the actual modeling system is a nonlinear structure and the elements in the influence factor series have a large range of changes in the prediction process of the measurement error of bobbin yarn winding density, a nonlinear multivariable PSGM (1, N) power model optimized by particle swarm optimization algorithm is proposed for modeling and prediction. The use of this optimization model improves the following aspects, where the introduction of multivariable PSGM (1, N) power model can more accurately describe the nonlinear structural characteristics of the actual modeling system, can reduce the modeling error caused by the large change of elements in the influence factor series, and can improve the prediction accuracy within the data series interval. The particle swarm optimization algorithm was used to solve the optimal power exponent in the power model, which not only improves the accuracy of the model, but also improves the modeling efficiency. Particle swarm optimization algorithm has the characteristics of global optimization, which can easily and quickly calculate the optimal value of multiple parameters at the same time. Through practical modeling and analysis of predicted results, it has been proven that this model has good application value in predicting the measurement error of package yarn winding density.

      Structural design and thermal-moist comfort of weft knitted knee pads
      WANG Yutao, CONG Honglian, GU Hongyang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  68-74.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220503301
      Abstract ( 139 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (8874KB) ( 45 )   Save
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      Objective In order to improve the traditional knitted knee pads that are reported with poor heat and moisture performance and lack of clear structural partitioning, this research was set to study the structural design of weft knitted shaped knee pads and methods to improve heat and moisture comfort from the perspectives of pad processing and pattern design.

      Method Firstly, the morphological characteristics and thermal and humidity characteristics of human legs were analyzed, and 14 different structured samples were prepared from yarn materials aiming to achieve good thermal and humidity properties, and air permeability and liquid water management tests were carried out. The partition structure designs of the knee pads combined with the characteristics of the legs were studied. Finally, the knitted knee pads were tested by thermal imaging, and temperature and humidity related performance were comparatively studied.

      Results The leg structure was studied according to the grid line division (Fig. 1), and the leg was divided into different heat and moisture density areas by combining human body heat with moisture characteristics (Fig. 2). The prototype knee pad structure was designed according to the leg shape (Fig. 6), and the functional partitioning design was carried out through the heat and moisture characteristics to establish the functional partitioning structure of the knee pad (Fig. 7). Through the experiments related to thermal and moist comfort, it was concluded that air permeability data graph, the air permeability of the mesh structure and the set circle structure only differ by about 80 mm/s, which was 26.7% higher than the air permeability of the ribbed structure (Fig. 4). In addition, in the thermal imaging pictures, after 20 min, sweat was discharged through the coil structure, and then the air took away the moisture to achieve the cooling effect. Because of this, the overall temperature decreased fast, and the difference between the thermal imaging temperatures before and after situations was small. In the overall rating table of the moisture management test, the rib sample and the composite sample scored lower than the mesh sample by 0.75 and lower than the imitation rib sample by 0.33 (Tab. 2). The mesh sample and the loop sample scored close to each other, both of which had better moisture management performance. In the graph of temperature and humidity change, the sample knee pads reached the maximum humidity at 25 min and then dropped rapidly after 5 min, the commercial knee pads reached the maximum humidity at 21 min and then started to decrease only after 10 min (Fig. 12).

      Conclusion The various fabrics with thermal humidity function prepared by using weft knitting forming principle and single guide moisture principle are better than other samples in terms of thermal humidity performance of mesh and collector loop samples, and are suitable for thermal humidity comfort research of knee pads. By analyzing the morphological characteristics of human legs and thermal and humidity characteristics, the functional partitioning of knee pad structure was designed, and a weft knitted shaped knee pad partition matching the thermal and humidity needs of legs was established on the basis of satisfying the curved surface of legs, and the partitioned designed knee pad has better thermal and humidity comfort than the traditional knitted knee pad. Compared with knitted knee pads with a single structure and vague partitioning, knee pads with heat and moisture partitioning have better heat and moisture comfort, which can increase the comfort of the wearer during sports and improve sports performance.

      Study of transdermal characteristics of antioxidant substances in naturally green-colored silk
      TAN Ting, LI Zheyang, MA Mingbo, ZHOU Wenlong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  75-80.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220901901
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      Objective Naturally green-colored silk has excellent antioxidant property due to the intrinsic flavonoid-based pigments. It is a promising alternative antioxidant functional natural fiber for being as healthcare textiles. However, the transdermal characteristics, influencing factors and dose effect relationship of antioxidant components from naturally green-colored silk to skin have not been reported, so it is necessary to study them in order to clarify the antioxidant effect toward the human skin when using its products.

      Method Transdermal permeation test were carried out on a transdermal permeation device and pork skins were used to simulate the permeation process of the antioxidant substances to the skin from the silk fiber. The pure water extract of natural green-colored silk and the extract of above skin tissues were analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography. The Folin phenol method was used to quantitatively detect the antioxidant extracts in each cortex. The classical DPPH radical scavenging method was used to evaluate the antioxidant activity of pig skin tissues after migration test.

      Results The results of high-performance liquid chromatography analysis show that the antioxidant components in the fibers can migrate to the stratum corneum layer and dermis layer of the skin (Fig. 2). The antioxidants were found to be present mainly in the stratum corneum layer when the contact time was less than 12 h, but they were accumulated mainly in the dermis layer when the contact time exceeded 12 h (Fig. 4). The antioxidants could not permeate the whole skin layers. Under humidity conditions similar to skin sweating, the total polyphenol content in the skin reached at (11.7±2.9) μg/cm2, accounting for 11.0% of the total fiber phenol content (Tab. 1). Antioxidant components migrated in general in acidic skin environments and migrated more to the deeper layers of the skin under the normal skin environment. In the acidic skin environment, the polyphenol content in the stratum corneum and dermis layer were 2.9 μg/cm2 and 10.5 μg/cm2 (Fig. 3), respectively. Both of the stratum corneum layer and dermis layer showed considerable improvement in antioxidant activity, and it obeyed the dose-response effect, and the more antioxidant components absorbed by the skin layers, the greater the free radical scavenging capacity of the skin layers. Volunteer trials were also carried out. After 24 h of fabric-to-skin contact, the content of polyphenols detected in the stratum corneum of the skin ranged from 5.1 to 6.6 μg/cm2, with an average value of (5.7±0.5) μg/cm2 (Fig. 5). Due to the high content of antioxidant components presented in the skin, the average scavenging rate toward the free radicals in the stratum corneum of the skin of volunteers was(76.7±8.2)%, which was significantly higher than the antioxidant activity of the stratum corneum (37.8±3.7)% of the pig skin experimental group at the same condition.

      Conclusion The antioxidant components in the fibers can migrate to the stratum corneum layer and dermis layer of the skin. The amount of antioxidant permeated to the skin depended on the contact time, moisture, and the acidity and basicity of the skin. The amount of antioxidants in the skin was positively related to the contact time. The skin surface with light moisture facilitated the permeation of antioxidants to the skin, but it is not that the moister the skin, the greater the migration, similar to the human body skin with slightly sweating environment which is better for the antioxidant to permeate to the skin. Acidic skin environment enabled a deeper permeation of the antioxidants as compared with the basic skin environment. The antioxidant components in the fibers can migrate into the human skin and endow the skin with excellent antioxidant capacity. This enables naturally green-colored silk to be used as a promising antioxidant textile material.

      Effect of yarn structure on tensile properties of ramie staple yarn reinforced composites
      ZUO Qi, WU Huawei, WANG Chunhong, DU Juanjuan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  81-89.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220804801
      Abstract ( 119 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (23465KB) ( 40 )   Save
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      Objective Bast fiber reinforced composites with lightweight quality, low cost, biodegradability, reusability and designability have been widely used in numerous applications in recent years. The length of extracted bast fibers, unlike synthetic fibers capable of continuous production, is limited, which is not beneficial for composite manufacturing and stress transfer. Staple spinning, a traditional method in the textile industry for acquiring continuous short fibers, breaks through the limitation of bast fiber length. Staple yarns are the foundations of various fabric reinforced composites and yarn pultrusion composites. One of the most important factors in determining the properties of staple yarn-based composites is the yarn structure. The effects of yarn count and twist on breaking properties of yarns are well known in the textile industry. However, the impacts of them on yarn reinforced composites have been rarely reported in the literature. Based on the relationship between staple yarn and staple yarn reinforced composites, the influences of the above structure factors on tensile properties of bast fiber staple yarns and their composites are investigated.

      Method The ramie fibers were used in the spinning process to prepare staple yarns with various yarn counts and twist factors. The ramie fiber staple yarn reinforced unsaturated polyester resin composite was fabricated via immersing and squeezing process. The breaking properties of ramie fiber staple yarns and tensile properties of ramie fiber staple yarn reinforced composites were tested and analyzed, respectively. Morphologies of ramie staple yarn and fracture section of ramie staple yarn reinforced composite were observed by using scanning electron microscope. The internal defects of ramie fiber staple yarn reinforced composites with different yarn counts or twist factors were detected by water immersion ultrasonic C-scan defect detector.

      Results The results showed that as the yarn count increased, the yarn diameter and breaking force of ramie staple yarn increased. When the yarn count was 80 tex, the tensile strengths of ramie staple yarn reinforced composite reached maximum in both short and long gauge tensile test. In the long gauge tensile test, the tensile strength of ramie staple yarn reinforced composite increased with increasing twist factor, whereas in the short gauge test, the maximal tensile strength was found to be 528.39 MPa at 360 critical twist factor. In the short gauge test, the tensile properties were subject to the balance of mechanical interlocking and twisting force components. However, mechanical interlocking failed to perform its corresponding function for the tensile properties in the long gauge test due to the discontinuity of the fibers in the yarn. In ultrasonic detecting, the looser ramie fiber staple yarn, the more interfacial and unimpregnated defects in ramie staple yarn reinforced composites.

      Conclusion In conclusion, ramie staple yarn reinforced composite with 80 tex and 360 twist factor is recommended for bast fiber reinforced composite industry. Moderate yarn count and twist factor are conducive to yarn infiltration in staple yarn reinforced composite. Ramie fibers are easily pulled-out by resin in coarser yarn reinforced composite in the constant twist factor, resulting in the decrease of tensile strength of ramie fiber staple yarn reinforced composite after exceeding 80 tex. Because of the larger arrangement angle of fibers in the yarn with the increasing twist, ramie fibers are more difficult to pull out from resin due to the mechanical locking interface effect. Under the short gauge testing, the load bearing effect of the fibers in the ramie fiber staple yarn reinforced composites is fully exerted. Therefore, the tensile strength of ramie fiber staple yarn reinforced composite in the short distance between clamps test is higher than in the long gauge tensile test. The selection principle of twist factor is to balance the positive effect of the fiber inclination angle on the interface and the negative effect on the load-carrying efficiency. There is no doubt that the yarn structure possessed significant potential for promoting the development of bast fiber staple yarn reinforced composite.

      Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals
      Analysis of fabric dyeing intrusion kinetics based on probability density function
      JIANG Shaohua, LIANG Shuaitong, PEI Liujun, ZHANG Hongjuan, WANG Jiping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  90-97.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20221000801
      Abstract ( 111 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (2736KB) ( 62 )   Save
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      Objective Dyeing is a very complex process with many variables in which different phenomena occur simultaneously. In order to further understand the fluid flow and chemical reaction process of dye solution infiltrating into fabrics during the initial stage of dyeing, and to study the effects of physical properties of fabric and dye solution on fluid flow and dye concentration during the dyeing process, a relevant mathematical model has been developed and experimentally validated to ensure its accuracy.

      Method The fiber orientation probability density function was established as a mathematical model for the inter-fiber capillary radius. The Stokes-Einstein equation defined the effective diffusion rate of dye molecules in the fluid. By deriving a kinetic model for fluid flow and material exchange in the fabric by combining the Hagen-Poiseuille equation, the mathematical and kinetic models were validated by dyeing cotton fabric samples in a Reactive Red 195 dye solution at a concentration of 0.03 g/L, a temperature of 40 ℃, and a dyeing time of 15 minutes.

      Results The actual flow rate of the dyeing solution flow in the fabric was measured by percolation dyeing experiments to verify the accuracy of the capillary flow model constructed. Comparison between the flow rate predicted by equation with the actual flow rate revealed that the predicted flow rate and the actual flow rate were basically matched. Datacolor 800 spectrophotometer was used to measure the K/S values of the sample fabrics at the end of the dyeing experiment. The K/S values were normalized the predicted concentrations for comparison. The results showed that the predicted concentrations were in general agreement with the actual concentrations. These results validated the model used in this work, breaking down the critical phenomena and stages of the dyeing process, such as diffusion and adsorption. The numerical simulation results showed that as the fiber volume fraction increases, the capillary flow rate within the fabric decreases and the rise height of the dyeing solution decreases when equilibrium was reached(Fig. 3). Moreover, under these conditions, the dye concentration within the fabric reached a steady state much more quickly (Fig. 4). Contact angle analysis revealed that the size of the contact angle had minimal impact on the capillary flow rate but primarily affected the material exchange rate within the fabric (Fig. 5). However, if the contact angle exceeds π/2, there is no capillary effect in the fabric. A reduction in contact angle resulted in a slower material exchange rate, thus delaying the dyeing process. Conversely, an increase in surface tension would increase the flow rate within the fabric, but it would decrease the penetration height and dye concentration at the same location upon reaching equilibrium (Fig. 7 and Fig. 8). It was discovered that viscosity of the dyeing solution plays a critical role in determining equilibrium between permeation process and dyeing process within fabric. When viscosity is low, the permeation process and dyeing process could easily achieve equilibrium (Fig. 9 and Fig. 10).

      Conclusion A scientific and effective method for describing the fluid flow and chemical reaction process of dye solution infiltrating into fabrics during the initial stage of dyeing is explored. The simulation results generated by this flow model provided valuable information regarding the velocity and concentration distribution of capillary flow within the fabric. These results were validated through experimental validation. The kinetic model enables the rapid assessment of how variables such as porosity, contact angle, surface tension, and viscosity influence the dyeing process and its outcomes. The numerical simulation results showed that the fiber volume fraction has the greatest influence on the whole dyeing process. This method can also be applied to the description and analysis of the dyeing process and results for different fabrics, fluids, and dyes, researchers can effectively regulate and optimize the entire dyeing process and its results for specific applications.

      Oxidation of caffeic acid and in-situ dyeing performance of wool fabrics catalyzed by polyoxovanadate
      LIANG Zhijie, LUO Zhengzhi, CHENG Haibing, JIA Weini, MAO Qinghui
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  98-103.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20211002001
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      Objective The green dyeing and finishing method has attracted a lot of attention. At present, the main technology used for in situ dyeing is biological enzyme method. However, the biological enzyme is generally expensive and the preservation condition is harsh, so it is important to find a new way to achieve dye-free dyeing for textile. In this work, the in situ catalytic dyeing of wool fabric was carried out by using K7[MnV13O38]·18H2O as catalyst and caffeic acid as substrate. Besides, the polymer was applied for wool in-situ dyeing to achieve coloring effect.

      Method The in-situ dyeing process was performed by one-step one-bath method. Factors such as reaction time, temperature, polyoxometalate concentration and pH value as well as the polyethylene glycol were studied for their effects on dyeing. Consequently, the dyeing property and structure of the dyed wool was characterized and analyzed by color parameter, color fastness test and fourier-transform infrared spectrum, scanning electron microscope, UV-vis spectrum, respectively.

      Results Based on the K/S value, the optimum conditions are obtained, namely, 0.9 g caffeic acid, 0.9 g polyethylene glycol 1000, pH = 4.0 acetic acid-potassium acetate buffer, 0.19 g polyoxometalate with temperature of 50 ℃ and reaction time 5 h (Fig. 4-7). The infrared spectra of polyoxometalate, caffeic acid, precipitations and dyed wool after dyeing reaction are contrasted (Fig. 1). The peak at 958 cm-1 and the peaks in the range of 800-500 cm-1 for crystals indicate that the catalyst is synthesized successfully. After the reaction, a large amount of black precipitate was produced in the bottle. In contrast, the peaks in the range of 3 600-2 500 cm-1 indicate that the caffeic acid is polymerized after the reaction, and the polymer has strong hydrogen bond, while the peaks at 1 264 cm-1, 1 086 cm-1 and 1 023 cm-1 indicate the formation of ether bonds in polymer. Besides, there are broad peaks in the spectrum of dyed wool similar to precipitate in the range of 3 600-3 000 cm-1, and small peaks at 1 210 cm-1 and 1 084 cm-1 indicate the existence of polymer on the fabric surface.

      The UV-vis spectrum of solution with different reaction time is obtained (Fig. 2), showing a strong peak at 293 nm, which is assigned to R band of benzene ring. Besides, the absorbance reaches minimum at 5 h, indicating that the polymer load most on the fabric, which is consistent with the results of K/S value of the fabric. The appearance of wool fabric before and after reaction is measured by SEM and cross-section of fiber (Fig. 3), indicating the better dyeing effect of the method. In addition, the wool fabric has a deep dyeing depth and appears black (Fig. 8). The color fastnesses on rubbing stress under dry and wet conditions are very well and reach 5 and 4-5, respectively. The color fastness on washing can reach 3 (Tab. 2).

      Conclusion Polyoxometalate is chosen to be a catalyst for the oxidative polymerization of caffeic acid to produce polymeric colorants for the dyeing of wool, showing a dark black color. The colored wool is characterized well. The influence of five factors, including pH, reaction time, temperature, polyoxometalate concentration and polyethylene glycol, is evaluated on the K/S value of dyed wool. Additionally, the dyed wool exhibits good color fastnesses on rubbing stress and washing, which can be attributed to the polycaffeic acid coating and the strong covalent binding between polymer and wool. Importantly, the dyed wool undergoing chemical reaction remains the apparent feature. These good characteristics make the dyeing strategy a promising candidate for textile dyeing. Therefore, this study could lead to the successful development of catalyst for dyeing process.

      Cross-media reproduction of Qianlong palette color based on characterization model
      SU Miao, LI Saiquan, YANG Limei, DUAN Yiting, LU Jialiang, ZHOU Kaili
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  104-112.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220905601
      Abstract ( 155 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (4588KB) ( 47 )   Save
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      Objective Digital museums break through the barriers of space and time, expanding the range of collections in the form of video and images. However, in the process of museum relic image collection or online display, image reproduction across equipment is prone to color distortion phenomena such as eclipse, color deviation, affecting the visual effect of the image due to the correlation characteristics of color equipment and the lack of standard image collection conditions. In order to solve this problem, the Qianlong palette silk fabric was taken as the research objective to carry out the cross-device color reproduction of textile relic images, aiming to provide support for the establishment of digital museum.

      Method On the basis of Qianlong palette silk fabric, the color characterization of digital camera and display screen were carried out respectively. The influences of different image formats, different training data sets and different order of polynomial on the accuracy of camera prediction model were discussed. At the same time, the Gain-Offset-Gamma(GOG) model was used to characterize the chrominance of display screen. Then color difference analysis was carried out to determine the optimal characteristic model of Qianlong chromatography reappearance across equipment. Finally, textile relics collected in the Silk Museum of China were used to test the model.

      Results In this study, color information and image information were collected from 210 colors of Qianlong palette. The absence of Qianlong palette in blues (B) and blue-green tones (BG) may be due to the fact that indigo was the only natural blue dye selected in this study, and a stronger dye bath may have biased indigo stained samples towards purple tones (Fig. 6). The L* values of all 210 colors ranges from 17.85 to 78.13(Fig. 7), 210 colors are distributed in four quadrants of the a*-b* plane of CIELAB color space, and is widely distributed in the first quadrant (Fig. 8). The Qianlong palette covers different color series. Among all the colors, red and yellow are the main color series, which are the most important color representations of the royal costume in the Qing Dynasty. The color reproduction accuracy for the silk fabrics has been significantly influenced by the training datasets and the mathematical mapping methods and image format. Using both color charts, the RAW image format shows the better predictive accuracy, followed by the JPG format (Tab. 6), and the 3rd polynomial regression shows the best predictive accuracy (3.20 (ΔEab*)), followed by the 2nd (3.86 (ΔEab*)) and the 1st order polynomial regression (4.15 (ΔEab*)). Finally, the RAW image and third-order polynomial were selected to characterize the chrominance of the camera, and the collected textile color data set was used to train the model. The accuracy of the model can reach 2.18(ΔEab*), this is the highest precision camera characterization model in this study. The accuracy of display characterization model is 0.58 (ΔEab*). The mean color difference value of Qianlong palette and silk relics is 2.16 (ΔEab*), and 2.38 (ΔEab*), indicating that this characteristic model has excellent cross-equipment color reproduction effect.

      Conclusion The Qianlong palette is mainly distributed in the yellow tones of the Munsell color system, with less color in the green and purple tones, and no distribution in the blues and blue-green tones. In the color space of L*a*b*, the brightness value of Qianlong chromatographic ranges from 17.85 to 78.13. The brightness value of yellow tone is above medium, and the brightness value of other tones is below medium. For museum image acquisition, it is suggested to standardize the lighting source, which mainly includes the selection of standard lighting body and corresponding color temperature to ensure the uniformity of lighting. At the same time, standardize shooting conditions: select and fix appropriate camera parameter settings, shooting distance, choose remote control shooting to avoid human operation error. For the characteristic prediction model of camera: the textile color data set of the same material and the same specification is used as the training data set, and the image modeling in high order polynomial and RAW format is adopted to obtain higher prediction accuracy and accurately predict the color after textile reduction.

      Strain-sensing and electrothermal difunctional core-spun yarn based on long silver nanowires
      JIA Liping, LI Ming, LI Weilong, RAN Jianhua, BI Shuguang, LI Shiwei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  113-119.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220808001
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      Objective Strain sensing is one of the important functions of a smart fabric, which can transform the external stress (or strain) into visible electrical signals and monitor the physiological and motion characteristics of human body. At present, the flexible strain sensor has some problems, such as low sensitivity, small strain range and unstable performance after multiple stretching.

      Method AgNO3 was used as silver source material, NaCl and NaBr as nucleating agent, polyvinylpyrrolidone as ending agent, ethylene glycol as solvent and reducing agent in the reaction to prepare long silver nanowires. The commercial elastic core-spun yarn with single spandex fiber as inner layer, polyester fiber as sheath as flexible matrix, water-borne polyurethane (WPU) as dispersing agent and binder, and long silver nanowires (AgNWs) as conductive material was prepared by pre-stretch impregnation method with dual functions of strain sensing and electric heating.

      Results AgNWs prepared by polyol method have uniform morphology, uniform dispersion, length up to 155 μm, diameter only 146 nm, and aspect ratio up to 1 000 (Fig. 1(b)). When the mass ratio of AgNWs/WPU is 2∶1 and the core-spun yarn is pre-stretched by 30%, AgNWs can adhere to a single cotton fiber to form a stable and dense AgNWs conductive network(Fig. 2). When the load of AgNWs was 15%, the percolation threshold is reached, and the conductivity value became 466 S/m(Fig. 3(a)). During stretching, the conductive network formed by AgNWs was deformed together with the inner spandex fiber, and the core-spun yarn exhibited a Gauge factor value of 12.7 at the highest within a wide strain range of 0%-70%. When the core-spun yarn was drawn, the stress gradually increases with the deformation. When the tensile length reached 25 mm, i.e., the elongation of 250%, the polyester fiber began to break. The cyclic tensile mechanical properties of core-spun yarns under 10% strain were further tested (Fig. 5(b)). The deformation of core-spun yarns could be quickly recovered after repeated stretching for at least 10 times, showing good mechanical stability. At 5 V voltage, when the static tensile range was increased from 0% to 50%, the conductive network structure formed by AgNWs is destroyed, resulting in a continuous decrease in its electrical conductivity. The maximum temperature range is 49.8-65.7 ℃, which reflects excellent electrothermal performance.

      Conclusion In this paper, a strain sensing electrothermal core-spun yarn with elastic core-spun yarn as flexible substrate, WPU as dispersing agent and binder, and AgNWs as conductive material was prepared by the method of multiple impregnation of 30% of pre-drawn elastic core-spun yarn. The results show that when AgNWs/WPU (mass ratio of 2∶1) mixed emulsion is prepared, AgNWs can be uniformly dispersed and AgNWs/WPU film is formed only on the surface of a single cotton fiber. The cotton fiber is completely dispersed by using the 30% impregnation method of pre-drawn core-spun yarn. Dense AgNWs conductive network is formed on the single cotton fiber of the yarn sheath layer, and the electrical conductivity reaches the extreme value. When the load of AgNWs is 15%, the strain range of AgNWs core-spun yarn is wide (0%-70%), and the sensitivity is up to 12.8. After repeated stretching, the strain sensing and mechanical properties of AgNWs yarn are stable. At 5 V voltage, when the static tensile range is 0%-50%, the maximum temperature variation range is 49.8-65.7 ℃, which reflects the excellent electric heating performance. The AgNWs strain sensing electrothermal cored yarn made by pre-stretch impregnation is expected to be an ideal method for large-scale production of wearable smart devices.

      One bath flame retardant finishing of polylactic acid nonwoven by phytic acid/chitosan/boric acid
      ZHANG Guangzhi, YANG Fusheng, FANG Jin, YANG Shun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  120-126.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20221102301
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      Objective Polylactic acid (PLA) fiber is an eco-friendly thermoplastic degradable synthetic fiber, which has biocompatibility and easy biodegradability but poor flame retardancy and easy to produce droplets. Biomass flame retardant has the advantages of innocuity, harmless and easy biodegradation. In order to solve the problem of flame retardancy and droplet resistance of PLA fiber products, it is urgent to develop flame retardancy technology for PLA fiber biomass to improve its flame retardancy and droplet resistance.

      Method The subject design uses biomass chitosan (CS), biomass phytic acid (PA), and inorganic boric acid (BA) as the main raw materials, and uses the one bath method to finish the polylactic acid nonwovens with flame retardancy and anti-dripping, so as to improve their flame retardancy and anti-dripping performance. FT-IR, SEM, EDS and TG were used to characterize the chemical structure, surface morphology, surface element distribution, and thermal stability of flame retardant polylactic acid nonwovens. The flammability of flame retardant polylactic acid nonwovens was evaluated by vertical flammability tester and limiting oxygen index tester.

      Results After the one bath method treatment of polylactic acid nonwovens, many granular or flaky substances co-deposited on the surface of the polylactic acid fiber, and the fiber surface became rough(Fig. 3), indicating that chitosan, phytic acid, boric acid and composites co-deposited on the fiber. After the one bath method treatment of polylactic acid nonwovens, the continuous burning and smoldering time of the flame retardant treated samples are zero, only a small amount of melting shrinkage without dripping, the carbon length is only 11.3 cm, and the limiting oxygen index of the original sample is 21.0% increased to 34.6% of the treated samples(Fig. 2 and Tab. 1), which improves the flame retardant and anti-dripping effect of polylactic acid nonwovens. After the one bath method treatment of polylactic acid nonwovens, the flame retardant treated samples contain not only carbon and oxygen, but also phosphorus (5.26%), boron (12.91%), nitrogen (4.26%) (Fig. 3 and Tab. 2). The reactive P—OH and B—OH in phytic acid and boric acid may form a complex with the —NH2 of chitosan(Fig. 4). It is beneficial to promote the catalytic dehydration of PLA fiber into carbon and improve its flame retardancy and anti-dripping performance. After the "one bath method" treatment of polylactic acid nonwovens, the thermal cracking of flame retardant-treated samples in a nitrogen atmosphere includes three processes: decomposition, thermal degradation, and carbonization. The initial decomposition temperature of flame retardant treated samples is 139.3 ℃ earlier (from 299.1 ℃ of the original sample to 159.8 ℃), and the carbon residue at 800 ℃ reaches 14.57% (Fig. 5 and Tab. 3).It is shown that the flame-retardant system is helpful to promote the catalytic dehydration of PLA fiber to form carbon, and the dense carbon layer has a blocking effect, which can inhibit the transfer of combustible gas and the diffusion of oxygen, and conforms to the condensed phase flame retardant mechanism (Fig. 6).

      Conclusion Biomass chitosan (CS), biomass phytic acid (PA), and inorganic boric acid (BA) were used as the main raw materials to finish the polylactic acid nonwovens in a one bath method. The continuous burning time and smoldering time of the treated samples were zero, with no melt drops. The carbon length was only 11.3 cm, and the limiting oxygen index reached 34.6%. The thermal cracking in the nitrogen atmosphere was roughly divided into three stages: initial decomposition, thermal degradation, and carbonization. The carbon residue reached 14.57% at 800 ℃. The improvement of flame retardancy, droplet resistance, and thermal stability of PLA fiber conforms to the mechanism of condensed phase flame retardancy, and the influence of wearing properties (whiteness, breaking strength, etc.) is small. The one bath method flame retardant system of PA/CS/BA improves the flame retardancy, anti-dripping effect, and thermal stability of PLA nonwovens. It conforms to the flame retardant mechanism of the condensed phase. This flame-retardant system provides a new environment-friendly flameretardant and anti-droplet strategy for PLA fiber and has good market application potential.

      Apparel Engineering
      Two-dimensional transient heat transfer model for electrically heated shoe upper and experimental validation
      LIU Guangju, SU Yun, TIAN Miao, LI Jun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  127-133.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220808201
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      Objective Local heating is an efficient way to improve thermal sensation and thermal comfort of foot. Currently, electrically heated products of footwear are available in the market. However, there are problems in terms of temperature control and parameters design such as heating temperature and power. Laboratory studies on personal electrically heated devices for foot are limited. The simulation of heated zones with distribution of heating elements in the numerical model is insufficient. The purpose of this study was to investigate the mechanism of temperature regulation by an electric heater and its influence on thermal comfort of foot.

      Method Based on finite volume method, a two-dimensional model for electrically heated upper of foot-wear (EHUF) was developed. Characteristics of heat transfer in porous fabrics and two-dimensional heat transfer between heated and unheated zones were considered. The space-step of X and Y were defined as 5×10-4 m and 5×10-5 m respectively, and the time-step is 3 s. The maximum residual error was set at 0.001 ℃. The model was validated by testing the thermal regulative performance of the electrically heated footwear with cold exposure, and further compared with a one-dimensional model proposed.

      Results The stable skin temperatures of two-dimensional model ranged from 34.57 ℃ to 36.19 ℃ (Fig. 3), and the deviations of skin temperature between two-dimensional model and the experiment were controlled to be in the band of 2.59% and 13.74% (Tab. 3). Under the premise of the same main parameter, both the one-dimension and two-dimensional models effectively predicted the skin temperature. It was found that the better the cold protective performance of fabrics, the smaller the difference between the one-dimension and two-dimensional model predictions. Specifically, when cold protective performance of fabrics matched the set temperature of the heating pad, the two-dimensional model under the mode of heating pad temperature control (HPTC) was better than the one-dimensional model. This was mainly represented by the difference of average predicted deviation between the one-dimensional and two-dimensional, -2.55% under the condition of double-layer fabrics and HPTC mode at 45 ℃ (HPTC45), and 0.53% under the condition of double-layer fabrics and HPTC mode at 35 ℃ (HPTC35). The skin temperature prediction ability of the two-dimensional model was improved compared to the one-dimensional model. Under the mode of skin temperature control (STC), the maximum prediction deviation of skin temperature in the two-dimensional model decreased by 1.49% to 3.93%. Compared with one-dimensional model, the two-dimensional model simulated the temperature regulation of heating pad more reliably. In the initial heating phase, the predicted deviations of heating pad temperature between two-dimensional model and experiment reduced by 2.99%-25.09% (Tab. 4). It is also shown that the prediction accuracy of STC model improved the most. In the temperature fluctuation phase, the predicted deviation of double-layer fabric under HPTC35 and HPTC45 mode decreased by 3.36% and 5.95% respectively, and the other conditions increased. Nevertheless, most of the increases were 1.57%-2.45%, which was attributed to the change of heating simulation in the two-dimensional model.

      Conclusion This research numerically shows the mechanisms of heat transfer and thermal regulation of electrically heating pad in footwear. It is concluded that the two-dimensional heat transfer model for the EHUF characterizes the mechanism of temperature regulation more accurately than the one-dimensional model. The developed model helps to enrich the two-dimensional heat transfer theory of electric heater and is of great significance to study the parameters of the EHUF and other cold weather clothing system. It can be used to efficiently evaluate the thermal regulation of electrically heating pad in footwear, and provide references for the optimal design of thermal regulation and energy efficiency of the electrically heated footwear. By further investigating the heat source of the electric heater, the two-dimensional model can more accurately predict the temperature regulation performance of active heating garments. This is likely to lead to a contribution in foot thermal comfort for staffs performing in a severely cold environment.

      Similarity pattern matching technology based on garment structural feature recognition
      LIU Rong, XIE Hong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  134-142.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220707701
      Abstract ( 165 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (6143KB) ( 148 )   Save
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      Objective From the perspective of intelligent pattern making, the closest pattern in the pattern library is matched by the identification of the garment style drawings and new patterns can be developed based on that pattern. This method of pattern making makes maximum use of existing pattern information and simplifies the structure drawing process of the pattern. In order to achieve similarity matching from garment style drawings to patterns, a pattern matching technique based on garment structural feature recognition is proposed.

      Method The implementation of this technique consists of two main parts. The first is category label design, where certain structural features in the flat style drawing are defined and multi-label categories are set according to the definition according to the knowledge of women's trouser structural drawing. Then the multi-label categories were transformed into single-label multi-categories, and the link between the flat style diagram, structural features and the pattern was established. Finally, examining the correlation between the labels, the final labels for the experiment were designed. The second part is the model validation. In this part of work, the apparel dataset was established, which took the women's trousers flat style drawing as the sample. Then the AlexNet network was improved in the experiment. These changes mainly include simplifying the network structure and adding batch normalization operations after each convolutional layer.

      Results In the process of label design, 18 categories of women's trousers were set through data visualization analysis and the study of correlations between labels. One of the results of the model testing shows the model converges faster after adding the batch normalization after the convolution layer (Fig. 10 and Tab. 4). The recognition accuracy is higher, with the highest recognition accuracy achieved by adding four layers of batch normalization. Second, it can be seen that the final training accuracy of the model tends to be stable around 99% (Fig. 8). The accuracy of the improved model on the validation set is 83.4%, and the recall and F1 values are 0.834 and 0.835, respectively. Third, the accuracy of the improved model is 6.7% higher than that of the original AlexNet model and 6% and 3.6% higher than that of the ResNet18 and VGG11 models, respectively (Fig. 11, Tab. 5). The number of model parameters is also less than that of the original model.

      Conclusion In this paper, the identification of structural features and matching of similar patterns is achieved by defining 18 structural features in the silhouette, waist position, waist shape, waist process and hip circumference, and using them as similarity representations of the pattern, constructing a model using the garment style drawings as input. The experimental research has certain value and significance to the intelligent pattern making of garments. In the process of label design, through the visual analysis of data and the study of the correlation between labels, invalid labels can be eliminated and label categories can be set reasonably, which can improve the problem of uneven data distribution in label categories and improve the utilization rate of data; In the process of model validation, by improving the structure of the original AlexNet model and introducing batch normalization operation in the convolution layer, the convergence speed of the model can be speed up and the recognition accuracy of the model be increased.

      Human clothing color recognition based on ClothResNet model
      HUANG Yueyue, CHEN Xiao, WANG Haiyan, YAO Haiyang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  143-148.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20221105601
      Abstract ( 217 )   HTML ( 22 )   PDF (3955KB) ( 157 )   Save
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      Objective Color recognition of human clothing has become a topic with widespread interest recent years due to its potential to address various issues such as clothing retail, smart security, and fashion recommendation. An accurate color recognition model for human clothing can greatly enhance user experience and service quality. However, accurately recognizing the color of clothing on a human body in images can be challenging due to the multi-angle and multi-pose nature of the clothing, as well as the influence of the material and texture of the clothing, the color and texture of the human body background, and other factors. Therefore, constructing an efficient and accurate human clothing color recognition model is important and necessary to be solved in order to improve recognition accuracy and stability.

      Method To enable color recognition of human clothing, a human clothing attribute dataset called pcaparsing was first created. Then, an end-to-end convolutional neural network model called ClothResNet was constructed, which used ResNet18 as the backbone network. The model also featured an optimized pyramid pooling module responsible for capturing multi-level semantic information and a coordinate attention mechanism with a focus on the contour information of human clothing. Additionally, atrous convolution was used to improve network efficiency. The dataset was split into training and testing data at an 8∶2 ratio, with 80% of the dataset used for training the ClothResNet model and the remaining 20% used for testing its effectiveness. Comparative experiments were conducted between the traditional clothing color recognition methods of K-means and Hog-KNN, the deep learning clothing color recognition method of CNN, and the method proposed in this paper. Ablation experiments were also conducted to demonstrate the effectiveness of selecting ResNet18 as the backbone network, expanding the dataset, and adding each module to the model. Overall, the study aimed to improve the accuracy and efficiency of color recognition for human clothing.

      Results This study aimed to recognize the color of human clothing in natural scene images using a convolutional neural network algorithm. The use of proposed network model, ClothResNet, achieved 94.49% accuracy rate in recognizing 12 different colors, demonstrating the feasibility and effectiveness of the deep learning method compared to traditional methods. To evaluate the effectiveness of the ClothResNet model, comparative experiments were conducted with traditional methods, and ablation experiments were designed and carried out. Expanding the dataset significantly improved the evaluation indicators of each network (Tab. 1 and Tab. 2). Furthermore, the addition of the pyramid pooling block and coordinated attention module further enhanced the performance of the model. These ablation experiments demonstrated the effectiveness of the extended dataset and network modules, laying the foundation for future work on automatic color recognition of human clothing. Overall, this study highlights the potential of deep learning methods for accurately and efficiently recognizing clothing colors in natural scene images.

      Conclusion In this study, a novel human clothing color recognition model called ClothResNet was proposed, which utilizes ResNet18 as the backbone network and incorporates an improved pyramid pooling module and a coordinate attention mechanism. By combining the strengths of an end-to-end convolutional neural network, this model has led improved recognition of various human clothing colors. Through a series of experiments, we verified the feasibility and effectiveness of our proposed method. This approach provides new ideas for the development of smart clothing, although there is still room for improvement. For instance, there are far more than 12 colors of clothing in reality, so further research is needed to develop methods for recognizing a broader range of colors.

      Impact of heterogeneous environmental regulations on carbon emissions with China's textile and garment industry
      ZHANG Jianlei, SHEN Pandeng, HE Lin, CHENG Longdi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  149-156.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220902701
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      Objective China textile and garment industry (CTGI) sets a green development goal that the amount of carbon emissions per unit of CTGI's value-added should decrease by 18% during the period of the "14th Five-Year Plan". environmental regulations (ER) is an important tool to curb carbon emissions, which include three heterogeneous regulations, i.e. command-based environmental regulation (CER), market-based environmental regulation (MER) and public-based environmental regulation (PER). Studying the relationship between the three different types of ERs and carbon emissions of CTGI is of great practical value for CTGI to achieve the green development goal.

      Method The threshold model was used to study the impact of CER, MER and PER on the total carbon emissions and carbon emission intensity of CTGI during 2005—2020. If the threshold test effect was significant, it meant that this type of ER would have a nonlinear relationship with CTGI's total carbon emissions or carbon emission intensity. If not, it is indicated a linear relationship. Then the panel model was used to further investigate whether the impact mechanism was increasing effect or reducing effect. The two models were also used to study the impact mechanism in each region of China.

      Results At the national level, the impact of CER on the carbon emission intensity of CTGI presents a single threshold effect. The impact coefficient is positive when CER is less than the threshold and negative when greater than the threshold, respectively. Both of them are significant. This means that the impact mechanism is in an inverted U-shape. Formal government environmental regulation can significantly decrease CTGI's carbon emission intensity after CER exceeds the threshold. The impact of MER on carbon emission intensity shows a double-threshold effect and the impact coefficients are significantly negative and positive, respectively when MER is less and greater than the second threshold. This indicates that the use of MER tools within this range can effectively reduce CTGI's carbon emission intensity. PER shows the increasing effect (namely the green paradox effect) on CTGI's total carbon emissions. At regional level, both of the impacts of CER on the total carbon emissions and carbon emission intensity of eastern textile & garment industry present the single threshold effect. The impact coefficients are all significantly negative and positive, respectively when CER is less and greater than the threshold. This means that after CER exceeds the threshold, its impacts change from the forced emission reduction effect to the green paradox effect. Its impacts on western and northeastern carbon emission intensity are dominated by forced emission reduction effect and the green paradox effect, respectively. MER can effectively reduce eastern carbon emission intensity within certain range. It also shows the forced emission reduction effect on central total carbon emissions, carbon emission intensity and northeastern carbon emission intensity. A significant double-threshold effect is observed between PER and eastern total carbon emissions. The impact coefficients are positive, positive and negative, respectively which means that after PER exceeds the second threshold, it shows the forced emission reduction effect on eastern total carbon emissions. While PER has the green paradox effect on eastern carbon emission intensity.

      Conclusion Based on the above research results, the following policy recommendations can be put forward. At national level, China should continue to strengthen the formal government environmental regulation, appropriately develop MER tools and use these tools in a certain range. At regional level, the intensity of CER in the eastern region should be kept in an appropriate range and the use of MER tools should be further strengthened. The intensity of CER in the central, western and northeastern regions can be increased to a higher level and their MER system should be continuously improved. The public supervision on carbon emissions of textile & garment industry is necessary to be enhanced in these regions. Through the comprehensive use of a variety of environmental regulation tools, the carbon emissions of textile & garment industry in China and all the regions can be reduced and the green development goal can be achieved at last.

      Analysis of use intention of modular garment based on technology acceptance model
      SONG Huihui, LU Yehu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  157-163.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220809301
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      Objective Modular clothing has become an important form of clothing transformation to green and low-carbon with its detachable and reconfigurable characteristics. At present, there are few related studies on modular clothing, and domestic related research mainly focuses on computer clothing system, modeling, and pattern design. There are few studies on the acceptance and attitude of modular clothing. The influencing factors for use intention need additional analysis.

      Method Based on the technology acceptance model, the clothing functionality is introduced as an external variable in the model to construct a modular clothing user willingness model. Through the 'questionnaire star' software, 141 young people aged from 18 to 26 were surveyed online and the collected data were analyzed, and seven hypotheses were proposed (Fig. 1). SPSS software was used to test the reliability and validity of the data. After passing the reliability and validity test, the questionnaire was analyzed and hypothesis tested in combination with the structural equation model.

      Results Among the 141 respondents to the questionnaire, 37.6% are male and 62.4% are female. After evaluating the five important elements of modular clothing (fabric selection, color matching, style and structure, pattern, and overall design style) by 1-5 points, it is concluded that the highest score is 'color matching' with a score of 4.49, and the lowest score is 'pattern' with a score of 3.38 (full score of 5 ) (Tab. 5). The reliability test shows that the Cronbach's α value of the total sample data is 0.930, the validity test shows that the Kaiser-Meyer-Olkin (KMO) value of the total sample data is 0.915 > 0.9, and the significance level is 0.000 < 0.01, indicating that the sample data has good reliability and validity (Tab. 6). The results of model fitness analysis show that chi square divided by degrees of freedom (CMIN/DF) is 1.711 < 3, root mean square error of approximation (RMSEA) is 0.071 < 0.08, goodness-of-fit index (GFI) is 0.868 > 0.8, comparative fit index (CFI) is 0.945 > 0.9, incremental fit index (IFI) is 0.946 > 0.9 (Tab. 7). The results of model path coefficient analysis show that the P values of Hypotheses 1 to 4 and 7 are all less than 0.001, and they are consistent with the prediction direction, so these hypotheses are accepted (Tab. 8). The P values for hypotheses 5 and 6 are greater than 0.05, so Hypotheses 5 and 6 are rejected. The functionality of modular clothing has a significant positive impact on perceived usefulness and perceived ease of use. Perceived ease of use has a significant positive impact on perceived usefulness. Perceived usefulness has a significant positive impact on attitude. Attitude has a significant positive impact on behavioral intention. Perceived ease of use of modular clothing has no significant effect on attitude. Perceived usefulness has no significant effect on behavioral intention.

      Conclusion Young people aged from 18 to 26 pay the most attention to the color matching of modular clothing, followed by the style and structure, overall design style and fabric selection. While,they pay less attention to the pattern. The establishment of Hypotheses 1 and 2 means improving the functional performance of modular clothing can improve the perceived usefulness and perceived ease of use. The establishment of Hypothesis 4 and the non-establishment of Hypothesis 6 indicate that the perceived ease of use of modular clothing can directly and positively affect people's positive attitude towards modular clothing, but the direct impact on the purchase decision is not significant. The establishment of Hypothesis 3 and the non-establishment of Hypothesis 5 indicate that the perceived ease of use of modular clothing can indirectly affect the use attitude through perceived usefulness. The establishment of Hypothesis 7 indicates that people's positive attitude towards modular clothing can positively promote purchase behavior. Therefore, the functionality, perceived usefulness, perceived ease of use, interest and other aspects of modular clothing are the main influencing factors that affect users' willingness to use. Corresponding measures can be taken to promote consumers to make purchase decisions on modular clothing.

      Machinery & Accessories
      Measurement method of steel ring roundness based on line structured light
      JIN Shoufeng, SHEN Wenjun, XIAO Fuli, LI Yi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  164-171.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220701401
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      Objective Aiming at the background that the roundness of the inner surface of steel ring is still mainly measured manually, an automatic solution based on machine vision measurement is proposed. According to the characteristics of textile steel ring, a method of measuring the inner surface roundness of steel collar based on line structured light was proposed. The method proposed in this paper aims to solve the problems of subjective judgment interference, cumbersome operation and low degree of automation in traditional manual contact measurement.

      Method Firstly, the camera calibration, optical plane calibration and rotation center calibration of the measurement system were completed by the calibration plate. The point cloud data of the inner surface of the steel collar was obtained based on the calibration coefficient and the extracted optical strip center coordinates. The roundness information of the inner surface of the steel ring was obtained by constructing a virtual plane.

      Results Roifill function is used to fill the specified region of interest polygon in the image, and the pixel values on the polygon boundary are smoothly interpolated inwards to extract the line structure light fringe area, and then the maximum inter-class variance method is used for binary processing. The hole and edge burr of optical strip were solved by morphological closed operation(Fig. 6).The principal component analysis method matrix was used to solve the covariance matrix instead of Hession to obtain the normal direction of fringes. By calculating the second-order Taylor expansion of the normal direction of fringes, the sub-pixel fringe center was obtained, and the extraction time was increased from 0.018 4 s to 0.002 9 s, which greatly shortened the time of the traditional algorithm (Fig. 7).The three-dimensional point cloud data on the inner surface of the steel collar were reconstructed from the center of the linear structure light fringe and the internal and external parameters of the camera, the optical plane equation and the rotation axis equation (Fig. 8). Points on the same plane were screened out by means of zero distance between points and the plane on the virtual plane established on the vertical axis of rotation, and the circularity value was obtained by using the minimum region method. The point cloud data obtained in the experiments of three types of steel collar were calculated respectively (Fig. 10), and the measurement experiments were carried out with the traditional manual method and three-dimensional measuring instrument (Tab. 1) and repeatability measurement experiments (Tab. 2).

      Conclusion Based on the principle of line structure, the parameter calibration is completed. The image mask method is combined with the maximum inter-class variance method, and the optical strip image is successfully obtained from the original image. The center of the optical strip is extracted by the improved Steger method based on principal component analysis, which improves the efficiency of the algorithm. Based on camera calibration parameters, optical plane calibration equation and rotation axis calibration equation, three-dimensional point cloud data on the inner surface of the steel collar were obtained from the fringe center of the line structure light. Combined with the roundness evaluation method, a measurement model of the inner surface roundness of the steel ring was established based on the point cloud data. Through the measurement experiment and repeatability measurement experiment of the three types of steel collar respectively, compared with the traditional manual method and three-dimensional measuring instrument, the maximum deviation measured by the method in this paper is 5.8 μm, which is more accurate than the results measured by the projection method in the literature, and the repeatability measurement standard deviation is 0.725, and the running time of the algorithm is less than 40 ms, which proves that the method has practical value for the roundness measurement of textile steel ring.

      Motion path planning and driving mechanism design of reed for spacer fabrics
      YUAN Ruwang, ZHANG Peng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  172-180.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220604401
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      Objective The traditional beating-up forms include the uses of four-lever and six-lever mechanism systems as well as conjugate cam. The reed swings around the rocking shaft reciprocally during the beating-up process, and cannot ensure the consistency of the upper and lower weft yarns during the fabric formation stage, thus leading to uneven weft density of the upper and lower surface layers of the spacer fabric. This produces width barrier defects and reduces the quality of the formed spacer fabric. A combined type of beating-up mechanism is applied to meet the weaving requirements of spacer fabrics, specifically to meet the requirements of reed movement trajectory and dynamic characteristics in the beating-up process.

      Method A beating-up mechanism combining a conjugate cam and a four-lever mechanism was worked. The movement path of the reed during the beating-up process was planned from the demand of the beating-up, and the rigid-body guiding method is used to establish the design model of the reed driving mechanism. Based on the Fourier series form, the control model of the motion characteristics of the reed was established. According to the movement law of the reed, the conjugate cam contour was able to be designed, and the complex vector method was used to verify the movement path of the reed and its movement characteristics.

      Results The initial angular displacement of rocker was found an important parameter to determine the motion path of the reed. Five sets of reed drive mechanisms with different parameters were designed to achieve parallel beating-up of the reed, in which the minimum trajectory error rate is 0.02% and the minimum angular error of the reed is 1.384°. The mechanism dimensional parameters were optimized in terms of reed angle error and reed trajectory error rate (Tab. 4). The constructed cam follower motion law was continuous and high order derivable, which effectively avoided rigid and flexible impact of the mechanism. The motion law can smoothly control the reciprocating motion of the reed along its motion path, and there is an approximate resting time of 50° during the start-stop phase of the reed motion, which increased the shedding angle and weft insertion angle, and was conducive to increasing the loom speed and width requirement. The acceleration of the reed reaches its peak at the moment of front dead position, ensuring that steady reed movement and beating-up inertia. For special requirements for the inertia force, the peak acceleration was changed by adjusting K value(guasi-acceleration at the moment of beating-up) at the same cam speed, so as to meet the technological requirements of adjusting the inertia force. ADAMS simulation showed that the horizontal and vertical motion of reed are 160.464 mm and 57.609 mm, respectively. The angle error of reed was 2.445° and the trajectory error rate was 0.14%. The peak acceleration of the reed in the horizontal direction is 325.5 m/s2 at the cam speed of 240 r/min, which results in the maximum inertia force of beating-up. This set of mechanism parameters meets the process requirements in terms of reed dynamic range and motion state.

      Conclusion The weaving process requirement of spacer fabric is proposed, and the synthetic motion path of reed is planned according to the requirements such as the position and state of reed during beating-up. Based on the conjugate cam linkage combination mechanism, the reed is parallel beating-up to ensure the consistency of force on the upper and lower surface layers of the spacer fabric. The reed driving mechanism is modeled by the rigid body guiding method and process constraints. When the initial angular displacement of rocker is 85.5°, the reed has the minimum trajectory error rate and angle error, which can meet the requirements of the reed planning motion path. The dynamic characteristics control model of reed based on Fourier series is established, and the boundary conditions of the model are determined from the requirements of beating-up process. The cam follower motion law can smoothly control the reed beating-up motion, and the reed has an approximate resting time of 50° in the start-stop phase, which increases the weft insertion angle and shedding angle and helps to improve the loom machine speed and width requirements.

      Vibration response characteristics of cam in knitting process of weft knitting machine
      DAI Ning, LIANG Huijiang, HU Xudong, LU Zhehao, XU Kaixin, YUAN Yanhong, TU Jiajia, ZENG Zhifa
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  181-187.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20211005101
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      Objective The existing research primarily focuses on real-time detection of the working status of a single species of actuator, resulting in poor generality and inability to ensure the accuracy of the terminal control process in the weft knitting machine. This study investigates the forced motion characteristics between knitting needles and cam during the knitting process, providing theoretical and experimental evidence for the real-time detection of the working status and faults in the weft knitting equipment from a vibration perspective.

      Method Combining the actual weaving process of the weft knitting machine, which involves the knitting needle impacting the cam and undergoing forced motion along the cam track, a testing platform was designed to investigate the vibration response characteristics of the cam during the weaving process. PZT (piezoelectric ceramic) was attached to the surface of the piezoelectric cam, creating a 'cam + PZT' coupling system. Vibration characteristic curves of the coupling system were obtained at different rotational speeds and knitting techniques.

      Results The vibration characteristics (amplitude, frequency) under different rotational speeds and knitting techniques, as well as their mathematical relationship with the rotational speed and needle selection method, yield the following three results for fault diagnosis and online detection of weft knitting equipment from a vibration perspective. Firstly, the moment when the knitting needle strikes the cam, the vibration signal experiences a rapid increase in amplitude, reaching its maximum value within a short timeframe (approximately 200 microseconds). The amplitude then gradually diminishes to zero. Importantly, the decay time period remains consistent and can be considered negligible compared to the needle selection cycle. This finding holds true irrespective of the impact velocity(Fig. 3). When the weft knitting machine is in the fully selected needle state, the needle selection frequency is equal to the vibration frequency detected by the "cam + PZT" coupling system. Conversely, when employing an n1×n2knitting technique, the needle selection frequency becomes n1+n2 times the vibration frequency detected by the "cam + PZT" coupling system. These results highlight the relationship between needle selection and the vibration response of the knitting apparatus(Fig. 4-8). The maximum value of the vibration signal detected by the "cam + PZT" coupling system exhibits a linear increase in relation to the rotational speed of the cylinder for different knitting techniques. Notably, this behavior remains independent of the specific knitting technique utilized, emphasizing the importance of rotational speed as a contributing factor to the vibration characteristics (Fig. 9 and Fig. 10 ). These results provide essential insights into the vibration-based real-time detection of working status and faults in weft knitting equipment. They pave the way for developing efficient fault diagnosis and online monitoring systems for weft knitting machinery. The findings contribute to the advancement of the weft knitting industry by improving the accuracy and reliability of detecting and addressing operational issues in real-time.

      Conclusion The vibration attenuation characteristics of the "cam + PZT" coupling system can be utilized to detect faults during the weaving process for impact frequencies below 5 kHz. This implies the potential for implementing fault detection mechanisms based on the vibration decay pattern of the coupling system. Understanding the relationship between needle selection frequency and vibration frequency across different knitting techniques allows for the diagnosis of jacquard weaving faults. The consistent patterns observed in needle selection and vibration frequencies provide insights into specific needle selection methods. Additionally, the correlation between the maximum value of the vibration signal and the vibration speed enables real-time monitoring of rotational speed in the weaving process. This offers a means to assess the timeliness and stability of rotational speed in weft knitting machines. In summary, these conclusions highlight the practical applications of the results, including fault detection, jacquard weaving fault diagnosis, and online monitoring of rotational speed in weft knitting machines through vibration analysis.

      Braiding strategy and yarn trajectory prediction of large size special-shaped structure mandrel
      LI Qiyang, JI Chengchang, CHI Xinfu, SUN Yize
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  188-195.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220307801
      Abstract ( 124 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (7121KB) ( 57 )   Save
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      Objective Due to the lightweight and damage tolerance of composite materials, more and more large-sized shaped structural parts in important fields such as aerospace are using composite materials instead of traditional metal materials. This paper presents a computational solution for a dual robot cooperative braiding process, as well as a model for predicting yarn trajectories for robot-tracted mandrel braiding, taking into account the robot trajectory and the geometric characteristics of complex mandrels. This method facilitates improved braiding accuracy, shortens the composite design cycle and provides a basis for mechanical analysis of the composite at a later stage.

      Method The spatial geometry of the discrete mandrel and the braiding plane was the research focus, and the trajectory of the robot end was solved using a rotational and translational transformation to obtain position and attitude information. Based on the spatial relationship between the yarn and the mandrel during the braiding process, a yarn prediction was made for this robot trajectory, which was used todetermine whether the yarn has been deposited on the surface of the mandrel based on the geometric relationship between the yarn and the surface of the mandrel at different moments and to predict the fabric construction.

      Results According to the calculation model established in this paper, the trajectory of the dual robots was obtained. The master robot trajectory ensured the mandrel to pass vertically through the braiding plane. In the bending part, the robot end-effector away from the braiding plane demonstrated a larger movement stroke, and the slave robot trajectory was constrained by the initial position relationship of the dual robot end-effectors, while the dual robot end-effectors were guaranteed to be relatively stationary when moving to any point. The experimental results showed that the error between the braiding angle of the equal section part of the mandrel and the expected value could be within ±3 degrees and that of the bending unequal section part could be within ±7 degrees by using the robot trajectory solved in this paper. The large error at the bend was due to the large curvature of the mandrel bend, the large difference between the surface area of the outer and inner surface of the mandrel led to a large variation of the inner and outer braiding angles when the number of yarns was equal. The results of the predicted model and the actual measured braiding angle in equal section part could be within ±3 degrees, while the errors of the bending unequal section part could be within ±5 degrees, the main cause of error in the prediction model is the large effect of yarn interactions on the prediction of the fabric due to the non-circular cross-section of the mandrel, where yarn interactions affected the deposition position of the braiding fall points. The trajectory calculation and yarn prediction model had some errors, but it still served as a guide for actual production and improved production accuracy (Fig. 6 and Fig. 8).

      Conclusion The dual robot trajectory solving method proposed in this paper can solve the braiding problem of large size shaped structure mandrels, while the yarn trajectory prediction model can make accurate prediction of shaped structure mandrels, improve braiding efficiency and enhance the mechanical properties of composite materials under the same conditions. Due to the assumption that the mandrel is always braided perpendicular to the braiding plane and that yarn interactions are not taken into account in this paper, the prediction results are subject to some errors on complex mandrels. Therefore, optimization of the braiding position of the mandrel and the addition of yarn interactions to the prediction model are considered in subsequent studies.

      Comprehensive Review
      Research progress in colloidal electrospun micro/nano fibers
      FU Zheng, MU Qifeng, ZHANG Qingsong, ZHANG Yuchen, LI Yuying, CAI Zhongyu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  196-204.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220502802
      Abstract ( 168 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF (7327KB) ( 77 )   Save
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      Significance Colloidal electrospinning is a new micro-nano preparation technology based on electrospinning. The colloidal particles are mixed with the template polymer solution and electrospun, and the colloidal particles are embedded in the nanofibers. On the one hand, the template polymer improves the spinnability of colloidal particles and provides a flexible carrier for colloidal particles and on the other hand the embedding of functional colloidal particles brings new functions to the fiber. In order to further understand the morphology control for wide applications of colloidal electrospinning fibers, this paper reviews the concept, working principle, morphology shape influencing factors, spinning treatment and application of colloidal electrospinning, and the future development of colloidal electrospinning prospect.

      Progress As a branch of electrospinning, colloidal electrospinning makes it possible that composite micro/nano fiber membranes with special structure and properties can be obtained by electrospinning after mixing colloidal particles with template polymer. Colloidal particles can be divided into three categories, i.e. inorganic colloidal particles such as silicon dioxide (SiO2), polymer colloidal particles such as polystyrene (PS) and poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) and temperature-sensitive microgel particles such as poly(N-isopropylacrylamide) (PNIPAm), Poly(N-vinylcaprolactam) (PVCL). Template polymers can improve the spinnability of colloidal particles and provide flexible carriers for colloidal particles among which poly(vinyl alcohol) (PVA) is the most commonly used template. The morphology of colloidal electrospun fiber mainly depends on the ratio of colloidal particles to template polymer, colloidal particle size, surfactant, viscosity of spinning solution and spinning voltage, and so on. It has been reported that there are beaded structure, bracelet structure, one-dimensional colloidal assembly, necklace structure, colloidal rod structure, spindle-like structure, colloidal fiber structure, and black berry-like structure. The range of application can be further broadened by different treatments before and after colloidal electrospinning. On the one hand, colloidal particles can be used as a nano-container to load drugs or metal oxide particles, and on the other hand, the composite fibers can be calcined, soaked and cross-linked, which can give the fibers new functions. The fiber membranes with different treatments can be used in the fields of super hydrophobicity, adsorption, catalysis, sensing, tissue engineering, photonic crystal fiber and so on.

      Conclusion and Prospect At present, composite micro/nano fiber membranes with various morphologies and functions can be prepared by colloidal electrospinning and further treatment, but the research on colloidal electrospinning is still in its infancy. The preparation of composite fiber membranes with flexibility, good mechanical properties and specific function by colloid electrospinning demands further research. In order to better develop of colloidal electrospun fiber, the future research can be carried out from the following four aspects. ①At present, colloidal electrospinning is mainly univariate colloidal electrospinning. In the future, multicomponent colloid electrospinning technology should be developed to integrate multiple functions on the fiber membrane, or to realize the controlled release of many drugs on the fiber membrane. ②After the template polymer in the composite fiber membrane is removed by calcination or immersion, the fiber membrane has higher brittleness and poor mechanical properties, which limits the further application of the fiber membrane. In the future, the mechanical properties can be enhanced by improving the interaction between colloidal particles, such as physical or chemical interaction. ③Active substances such as enzymes, cells and viruses can be loaded into the fiber by electrospinning to develop bioactive fiber membranes for tissue engineering. ④Colloidal electrospinning can be combined with 3D printing to construct composite fiber membranes with three-dimensional structure.

      Research progress in silk fibroin drug-loaded nanoparticles
      ZHANG Zifan, LI Pengfei, WANG Jiannan, XU Jianmei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  205-213.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220607102
      Abstract ( 159 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (4614KB) ( 82 )   Save
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      Significance Because of their unique size effect, drug-loaded nanoparticles can protect drugs from being cleared by the liver and spleen, break through the physiological barrier of the human body, act directly on cells and tissues, provide local tissues with continuous high blood concentrations, enhance cell infiltration and reduce the toxicity risk of patients' normal cells. Silk fibroin (SF) has attracted much attention as a nanodrug delivery carrier material because of its excellent biocompatibility, biodegradability, low immunogenicity, high binding ability to various drugs and mild preparation conditions. In particular, SF has different functional groups, which can be chemically modified or surface modified in a variety of ways to improve the drug loading rate, trigger biological reactions to cells through covalent binding with targeted ligands, achieve targeted drug release, and improve the therapeutic efficiency. Therefore, SF is a very prospective protein as a drug-loaded base material. This paper analyzed the pelletizing principles of SF as a drug carrier material and various ways of preparing them and highlighted the mechanism of the sustained and controlled drug release of SF nanoparticles, especially introducing the smart drug release responses of SF nanoparticles to pH changes or magnetic fields, which provided a useful reference for the preparation and application of SF in drug carrier materials.

      Progress SF as a drug carrier is mainly achieved by inducing or modifying the Silk Ⅰ structure to the SilkⅡ structure. The current research mainly focuses on three aspects. The first is to explore the role and mechanism of the physical and chemical properties of SF in drug-loaded nanoparticles. SF has two different secondary structures, SilkⅠ and Silk Ⅱ. By solvent treatment, such as ethanol, or under the action of high heat and high shear force, SilkⅠ transforms to Silk Ⅱ, leading to the self-assembly of SF, thus forming micro/nanospheres. The second is to study the preparation methods of SF drug-loaded nanoparticles to improve their release efficiency and morphology. At present, the main preparation methods of SF nanoparticles are precipitation, salting-out, microemulsion and desolvent methods. Nanoparticles prepared by different preparation methods also have different drug loading methods, resulting in different drug release effects. The release velocity of drug-loaded nanoparticles by encapsulation is lower than that of drug-loaded nanoparticles by adsorption. In addition, the encapsulation efficiency, release velocity and particle size were determined by the different drugs loaded. The third is to study the controlled and sustained release of SF nanoparticles. The controlled and sustained release includes two aspects: one is that the drug release curve and speed can be designed and regulated, and the other is that the drug release position can be regulated to achieve targeted release. Targeted release can significantly reduce the side effects in vivo, reduce the damage to normal cells, and improve drug utilization to obtain better efficacy. The targeted release of drugs mainly includes the pH response and magnetic response. Drugs can reach specific sites for targeted release through a magnetic field or pH change in the body to achieve controlled release of nanoparticles.

      Conclusion and Prospect Through the analysis and review of the related studies on SF drug-loaded nanoparticles, the following conclusions can be obtained: ①SF is easy to extract with low cost. It has been widely used owing to its mild preparation conditions, self-assembly property, good biocompatibility and low toxicity. The prepared nanoparticles have good mechanical strength and stability, exhibiting high loading efficiency for low molecular weight drugs. ②The amphiphilic properties of SF make it possible to form nanoparticles by self-assembly, which avoids the use of cross-linking agents and other organic solvents and is expected to achieve higher utilization in vivo. ③The controlled release of SF can be achieved by adding magnetic nanoparticles or covalently binding drugs.

      At present, research on SF as a drug carrier has become a hot spot, but research on the release effect and degradation rate of SF drug-loaded nanoparticles in vivo is limited. Achieving targeted release in vivo and the synergistic effect with pH in vivo and an external magnetic field may be a promising method explored in future studies. In particular, in the preparation process of SF drug-loaded nanoparticles, not only the particle morphology and drug loading rate should be considered but also the drug characteristics and release effects should be comprehensively considered so that multiple smart responses can be combined to achieve a smart nanoparticle delivery system, reduce the pain of patients, reduce the side effects of drugs, and achieve accurate medical treatment.

      Review and analysis on key technology of digital twin in spinning field
      LI Xinrong, HAN Penghui, LI Ruifen, JIA Kun, LU Yuanjiang, KANG Xuefeng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  214-222.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220509002
      Abstract ( 164 )   HTML ( 26 )   PDF (4130KB) ( 70 )   Save
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      Significance At present, China's spinning industry is changing from the traditional "win-by-quantity" to "win-by-quality" in order to further occupy the high-end market. However, at this stage, China's spinning industry is still facing problems such as dependence on manual experience, unstable yarn production quality, difficulty in improving yarn quality and so on. The emergence of digital twin technology and its application in other industries provide new solutions to the above problems. However, in the practical application process of digital twins, there are a series of problems that need to be solved urgently, such as unclear structure, lack of ready-made guidance, and disputes over the application form of digital twins, which hinder the further development of the spinning field. Therefore, from the perspective of improving yarn quality, this paper reviews and discusses the practical significance and specific forms of the application of digital twin for the intelligent transformation in the field of spinning.

      Progress First of all, this paper introduced the basic concept of digital twins, the application of digital twins in other industries, the actual characteristics of the stage in which the spinning field is closely related to yarn quality, and the application prospect of digital twins in the spinning field. According to the actual characteristics of the spinning field, the yarn production was divided into design stage and production stage, and the characteristics of these two stages were analyzed and abstracted into mathematical expressions. At the same time, the key process of improving yarn quality in the spinning field was summarized as an abstract model, and the mapping relationship with the digital twin abstract model was described. The characteristics of the digital twin application in the ideal state and non-ideal state were analyzed, and the actual characteristics of the spinning field were further combined, and how to use the digital twin theory method to solve the practical problems in the spinning field in the non-ideal state was emphatically analyzed. Based on the discussions and analyses, an architecture system for the application of digital twins in the spinning field was proposed, which mainly describes the logical relationship between the data platform, the yarn quality prediction twin model, the equipment twin model, and the logistics twin model in the application process of digital twins in the spinning field, as well as the specific implementation steps. In addition, the construction processes of these key parts were also introduced.

      Conclusion and Prospect In the future, the application of digital twinning in the field of spinning can develop in the direction of improving the accuracy of relevant digital twinning models, especially yarn prediction twinning models, using existing theories to better establish knowledge models, achieving better integration between models, improving the data interaction security of the spinning digital twinning industrial platform, and increasing the precision visualization of key equipment twinning models. In the application process of digital twins in the field of spinning, we should also pay attention to the combination of existing technologies. In addition, a series of relevant standards should also be formulated to finally realize the spinning digital twin standard system and provide reference for the intelligent transformation of spinning enterprises, so as to promote the implementation of the digital twin in the spinning production enterprises, promote the application of the digital twin in the spinning field, ultimately improve the production quality of yarn, promote the high-quality development of the spinning field, and also provide corresponding reference for the intelligent transformation of other fields in the textile industry.

      Research progress in design methods for semiconductor cooling garments
      NIE Sixuan, YIN Hu, NIE Yadong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2023, 44(10):  223-231.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220702902
      Abstract ( 161 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (4382KB) ( 76 )   Save
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      Significance Thermal damage and workplace accidents caused by working under high temperatures occur frequently. With advantages of portability, controllability,and environmental protection, semiconductor refrigeration garments are more suitable for use in the working scene. The semiconductor cooling garments can regulate the temperature and humidity of the human micro-environment and reduce the thermal discomfort of workers working in hot environments. This paper summarizes the methods to improve the efficiency and thermal comfort of semiconductor cooling garments which can help save energy and improve the wearing experience. The methods can be used as the basis for further experiments and design.

      Progress The semiconductor cooling garment can be divided into a cold source module (including the refrigeration part and the heat dissipation part of the hot end) and a heat transfer module of the cold end. For the cold source module, ways to enhance the cooling efficiency involve altering the input and improving heat dissipation at the hot end. The heat dissipation methods of the hot end include forced air cooling, liquid cooling, and heat pipe cooling, different heat dissipation methods have their ways to improve the heat dissipation performance of the hot end, such as changing fan voltage, changing liquid and phase change medium. For the heat transfer module of the cold end, the heat transfer modes include liquid heat transfer, air heat transfer, and contact heat transfer. The appropriate heat transfer mode can be selected according to the working conditions and characteristics of different heat transfer modes. The parameters related to the structure and medium of the heat transfer part are the important factors affecting the heat transfer efficiency and thermal comfort. Thermal comfort experiment is an important way to evaluate and optimize cooling garments. In addition to the results obtained from the human clothing experiment, establishing the thermal comfort model of the human body-cooling garment-environment is an efficient analysis and processing method.

      Conclusion and Prospect The factors influencing the cooling efficiency and thermal comfort of the semiconductor cooling garments were summarized from various aspects, which provided ideas for the design, optimization, and component selection of semiconductor cooling garments. For the cold source module, to improve the refrigeration efficiency, it is necessary to find the best input voltage and current of different types of cold sources, and conduct voltage input in a controllable and intelligent way. The heat dissipation mode shall be selected based on the weight, volume, and heat dissipation requirements. For the heat transfer part, the weight, efficiency, and thermal comfort of different heat transfer modes need to be considered. For air heat transfer, the heat loss can be reduced and the heat transfer performance can be improved by optimizing the air duct structure, changing the air temperature, wind speed, and air volume and reasonably designing the circulation space. For liquid heat transfer, it is necessary to select an appropriate liquid flow medium, optimize the structure of the liquid cooling pipeline, change the liquid flow rate, inlet temperature, and other parameters, and reduce the weight and volume as much as possible. For contact heat transfer, a comfortable and soft tactile experience is essential, and local supercooling needs to be prevented. The variables of the comfort experiment can not only change the parameters of the device, but also change the experimental environment and explore the human differences to ensure that the cooling clothing can adapt to the thermal comfort requirements under different working conditions. The human experiments and comfort models are both methods to solve the influence of variables. The comfort model can also be used for cold source optimization and comfort prediction. Lightweight, intelligent and comfortable semiconductor cooling garments that are suitable for multiple scenes will become the future research direction.