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Table of Content

    15 February 2011, Volume 32 Issue 2
    • 纤维材料
      Effect of solvent and spinning parameters on morphology of electrospun PSU fibers
      ZHANG Lu;PAN Fang-liang;LIU Lei-gen;PAN Zhijuan;
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  1-5. 
      Abstract ( 1211 )   PDF (1349KB) ( 618 )   Save
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      PSU fibers with a diameter in a range from nano-scale to micrometer were prepared by electrospinning. The effect of solvent, mass concentration of solution, tip-to-collector distance, voltage, and solution flow on the structure and morphology of eletrospun PSU fibers were investigated by SEM. The results revealed that, with addition of acetone into the pure N, N-dimethylformamide(DMF), the beads on fiber surface disappeared and the fiber diameter decreased firstly and then increased slightly as the dosage of acetone increased. As the mass concentration of PSU/D9A1 solution increased from 13% to 20%, the beads surface generally disappeared and the average fiber diameter increased. With the increase of the tip-to-collector distance and voltage, the amount of beads declined and the fiber diameter firstly increased and then decreased for PSU/D9A1 solution with a mass concentration of 15%, and the fibers obtained from the mass concentration of 20% exhibited no beads and the fiber diameter was ranging from 1.1 to1.7 μm. The fiber diameter increased first and decreased later with the increase of flow from 1.5mL/h to 4.0mL/h.

      Spinning and properties of PET/PTT self-crimp composite filament yarns
      Cao Yan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  6-10. 
      Abstract ( 1469 )   PDF (546KB) ( 658 )   Save
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      This paper introduces the spinning process of PET/PTT self-crimp composite filament yarns according to the properties of PET and PTT polymers. The cross and longitudinal sections, crimp morphology, hot shrinkage, and tensile properties of PET/PTT self-crimp composite filament yarns were tested. The results showed that the side-by-side structure makes the composite filament yarns with a permanent three-dimensional curl after heat treatment. The initial modulus and breaking strength of the yarns after boiling water treatment decrease while breaking elongation increases. Blend ratio has great influences on the physical properties of the yarns such as crimp property, elastic recovery, tensile properties, and boiling water shrinkage.

      Electrospinning of meta-aramid fiber and its properties
      ZHANG Wei;ZHOU Qi;YAO Lirong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  11-17. 
      Abstract ( 1595 )   PDF (1308KB) ( 907 )   Save
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      The N, N-dimethylacetamide (DMAc) was used as solvent, to which LiCl and CaCl2 were added respectively to prepare two solvent systems, and the dissolving and electrospinning properties of meta-aramid in these two solvent systems were investigated. Meta-aramid fiber had a limited swelling in DMAc. However, addition of chlorinated salt facilitated its fast dissolution. The dissolved quantity, dissolving time and viscosity of the solution were governed by the salt types and mass concentration. The nanofiber was successfully prepared with a diameter in a range from 100 to 500nm by high pressure electrospinning. The mean diameter of nanofiber increased as the mass concentrations of spinning solution and salt increased. The uniformity of nanofiber (I) obtained from LiCl/DMAc solvent system improved gradually with the increase of viscosity of the solution, and its morphology was superior to that of nanofiber (II) obtained from CaCl2/DMAc solvent system. However, II outperformed I with respect to thermal properties. And the mechanical property of the nanofiber mat electrospun in LiCl/DMAc system was the best when the mass concentration of the solution was 11%.

      Antimicrobial properties of zinc alginate fibers
      Qin Yimin;CAI Liling;ZHU Changjun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  18-20. 
      Abstract ( 1545 )   PDF (286KB) ( 555 )   Save
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      In order to study the antimicrobial properties of zinc alginate fibers, this paper used different amounts of zinc sulphate to treat calcium alginate fibers and prepared calcium zinc alginate fibers containing different concentrations of zinc ions through ion exchange. The antimicrobial properties of the zinc alginate fibers were tested using three methods. Results showed that because of the release of zinc ions from the fiber, there were clear zones of inhibition and the zinc alginate fibers were able to block the spreading of bacteria. Quantitative antimicrobial test results showed that the antimicrobial performance was stronger when the zinc ion content in the fiber was higher. Zinc alginate fibers with zinc ion contents of 164.4, 124.6 and 84.9 mg/g showed killing rates of 99.77%, 28.18% and 7.69% respectively against Bacillus subtilisvar. The killing rates against five types of common bacteria for the pure zinc alginate fiber were all above 98%.

      Acting mechanism of carrier Cindye Dnk on aramid fibers
      LIANG Ping;WANG Lan;LIN Junxiong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  21-25. 
      Abstract ( 1781 )   PDF (493KB) ( 704 )   Save
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      In order to reveal the mechanism of carrier Cindye Dnk on aramid fibers, the influence of carrier Cindye Dnk on the structure and properties of aramid fibers was studied with modern analytical methods such as TGA, XRD, FTIR, SEM, OM and etc. The results showed that the carrier Cindye Dnk didn’t affect the surface morphology and chemical structure of aramid fibers. The chemical structure of carrier Cindye Dnk was similar to that of aramid fibers, thus it conformed to the rule of like dissolves like, and the carrier Cindye Dnk had a good swelling effect on aramid fibers, making the thermal and physical properties of aramid fibers enhanced slightly without affecting their internal crystal structure and flame retardant property. Moreover, Cindye Dnk improved significantly the dyeability of aramid fibers, and increased the diameter, cross sectional area, and porosity.

      Analysis and identification of bamboo-charcoal viscose fiber
      XU Mingshuang;LI Qingshan;ZHOU Guangju
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  26-29. 
      Abstract ( 1547 )   PDF (654KB) ( 671 )   Save
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      Due to the addition of bamboo charcoal micro-powder, obvious differences exist between bamboo-charcoal viscose fiber and ordinary viscose fiber. In order to solve identification problem between them, this study used density-based method, combustion method, dissolution method, scanning electron microscopy, thermal analysis, adsorption method, antibacterial testing method and anion measurement to identify bamboo-charcoal viscose fiber. The results showed that any of the above 8 test methods can distinguish bamboo-charcoal viscose fiber from ordinary viscose fiber, in which, the density-based method, combustion method and dissolution method are suitable for simple identification, whereas scanning electron microscopy, thermal analysis, adsorption method, antibacterial testing method and anion measurement fit for complex qualitative identification. Analysis of scanning electron microscope photographs of bamboo charcoal verifies that the bamboo viscose fiber has higher adsorptivity.

      Preparation of polyurethane membrane with dual switch temperature sensitivity and its moisture vapor permeability
      ZHOU Hu;ZENG Jianxian;FAN Haojun;ZENG Junchang;ZHOU Zhiyuan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  30-35. 
      Abstract ( 1164 )   PDF (270KB) ( 570 )   Save
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      Three types of thermal sensitive polyurethane (TSPU) were synthesized, and the switch temperatures (the phase transition temperature of soft segment defined as switch temperature) of TSPU blends were investigated, along with preparation of polyurethane membrane with dual switch temperature sensitivity. The study indicates that the blend (TSPU(a) and TSPU(b)) with the similarity of constitution and structure in soft segment, has just a new switch temperature. However, the blend (TSPU(b) and TSPU(c)) with different constitution and structure in soft segment shows two independent switch temperature. According to moisture vapor permeability (MVP) analysis, it is found that when the temperature exceeded the switch temperature, the MVP of all the blends of TSPU changed markedly. Moreover, the blend of TSPU(a) and TSPU(c) shows just one switch temperature characteristic for MVP, but the blend of TSPU(b) and TSPU(c), shows dual switch temperature characteristics for MVP. So, it is believed that it is an efficient approach to preparing TSPU membrane with dual different switch temperatures by means of blending two types of TSPUs with different soft segments.

      纺织工程
      Discussion on outside diameter increment of winding roving package
      Cui Hong;YU Chngwen
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  36-39. 
      Abstract ( 1172 )   PDF (151KB) ( 556 )   Save
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      The high speed operation of the roving frame results in the size of roving package increasing continuously. Under these circumstances, a question is posed, that is, whether the traditional theory still applies to the relationship between the initial roving layer thickness and the final roving layer thickness. This paper discussed this question based on the roving layer thickness increasing in accordance with the laws of arithmetic progression, measured the outside diameter of winding roving package through measuring the perimeter of the winding roving package, and then used MatLab to fit the data measured and figured out the equation governing the relationship between the outside diameter of winding roving package and the number of roving layer. The equation’s correlation coefficient reached 99.99%. The results showed that the times between the final roving thickness per layer and the initial roving thickness per layer changed from 1.3 to 1.33-1.60. This indicated that due to the increase of roving package size, a new change has occurred with the relationship between the initial roving layer thickness and the final roving layer thickness.

      Dimensional properties of basalt fiber knitted fabrics
      WANG Qiumei;SONG Pengfei;XU Xuemei;ZOU Zhiwei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  40-43. 
      Abstract ( 1232 )   PDF (356KB) ( 476 )   Save
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      This paper was devoted to investigating the effect of fiber property on the dimensional properties of basalt fiber knitted fabrics, and the basalt fiber knitted fabrics with different structures of plain, 1×1 rib, full gauge 1×1 rib and Milano rib were made on V-bed machine in 5 sinking depths. The dimensional parameters of basalt fiber knitted fabrics were tested after relaxation to discuss the rule of dimensional change with time in cross, longitudinal directions and in fabric area. The regression analysis has shown that the fabric densities have linear relationship with the inverse of loop lengths. Meanwhile, the loop shape of the basalt fiber knitted fabrics was comparing with that of wool/acrylic knitted fabrics. Since basalt fiber is high in bending rigidity, the loop shape of its knitted fabrics exhibited more flattened. By means of this study, the dimensions of the fabrics can be predicted before knitting.

      Optimizing computer automatic cotton distribution using particle swarm algorithm
      ZHANG Zenqiang;HUANG Mazhuang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  44-47. 
      Abstract ( 1156 )   PDF (220KB) ( 586 )   Save
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      To improve the adaptability and versatility of computer automatic cotton distribution, an optimized solution based on particle swarm algorithm was presented for the design of computer automatic cotton distribution under multi-constraint conditions. A mathematical model is developed for automatic cotton distribution issue, transforming it into a multi-constrained and multi-dimensional function optimization problem, then the particle swarm algorithm is introduced into the solution of the model, ensuring that every possible solution in the equation groups can be accurately searched out. Practical application examples have proved that the optimal solution can be quickly and effectively reached by this method.

      Tensile properties of co-woven-knitted fabric with basalt fibre reinforced composites
      XU Yanhua;YUAN Xinlin;HU Hong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  48-52. 
      Abstract ( 1128 )   PDF (671KB) ( 530 )   Save
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      According to the structural features of co-woven-knitted fabric (CWK), high tenacity and high modulus basalt fiber filaments with different linear density were used as warp, weft and stitch yarn to produce the CWK fabric, which was used as reinforcement in making basalt filament/ethylene composite by VARTM process. For exploring the application fields of the CWK reinforced composites, the tensile of cross, longitudinal, and diagonal direction were tested. The mechanical properties of the composites were investigated by analyzing the stress-strain curves and breaking elongation. The strength comparison was made between the warp and weft of the composites. The results revealed that the tensile strength in the axial direction was relatively higher, and the tensile strength in weft and warp directions was better than that in diagonal direction. Brittle elongation breaking was observed, and the strength of the weft yarn is higher than that of warp yarn.

      Computer simulation of warp knitted broché fabric
      ZHANG Ziye;JIANG Gaoming;CONG Honglian;ZHANG Aiujn
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  53-57. 
      Abstract ( 1100 )   PDF (540KB) ( 483 )   Save
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      In order to predict the appearance effect of warp knitted broché fabric, after studying the structure of warp knitted broché fabric, the design and simulation of this fabric was proposed using pattern notion in conjunction with WB pattern notion. The loop structure model was set up to confirm the number and position of control points and segment was used to describe the loop state. The article made a theoretical analysis of the horizontal displacement of loop resulting from inlay jacquard and fall-plate jacquard. A detailed description of lapping movements of guide bars from inlay jacquard to fall-plate jacquard was made. Based on the pattern notion design model, loop structure model and the rule of transverse movement, program design was performed using VC + +. net, and the visual and quick simulation of warp knitted broché fabric was realized.

      机械与器材
      Analyzing needle track of SM8-TOP2 seamless-wear circular knitting machine
      XU Yinglian;QI Sumei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  58-63. 
      Abstract ( 1633 )   PDF (567KB) ( 1010 )   Save
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      SM8-TOP2 seamless-wear circular knitting machine creates conditions for designing many varieties of patterns. However, it can be optimized when designing. Therefore, we studied the settings of SM8-TOP2 electronic seamless-wear circular knitting machine, analyzed the loop forming principle of common stitches, and used MatLab to investigate the needle track, velocity and acceleration when operating loop forming, tuck loop and plating. Results showed that SM8-TOP2 seamless-wear circular knitting machine can achieve diversified pattern designs by controlling the setting up of triangle, needle selection, way of threading and so on. In the knitting process, the knitting needles move smoothly, the maximum acceleration appears in the press stage and it is propitious to the forming of new loops.

      染整与化学品
      Effects of xanthan gum on pasting properties of corn starch
      SHI Dian;WU Mengru;ZHU Prxin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  64-67. 
      Abstract ( 1123 )   PDF (393KB) ( 611 )   Save
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      Xanthan gum was introduced into a corn starch size, and Rapid Viscosity Analyzer (RVA) was applied to investigate the effect of the addition of xanthan gum on pasting properties of the corn starch and the apparent viscosity of the sizing liquor. The interactions between xanthan gum and corn starch were discussed. The results revealed that the xanthan gum could facilitate the pasting of corn starch, lower pasting temperature, and shorten pasting time. The peak viscosity increased with the increase of xanthan gum content, which indicated some interactions between xanthan gum and corn starch. The compatibility of the two components decreased with the increase of xanthan gum content, which was reflected by the increased decay viscosity of the blended paste. An uncommom decrease in the viscosity, as the temperature of the sizing liquor cooled down to 50 oC and the content of xanthan gum was 5.5 %, suggested that a phase separation of the system occurred.

      Determination of cotton fabric fish odor by HS-GC-MS
      WANG Xiaoning;WANG Hao;LIAO Qing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  68-72. 
      Abstract ( 1280 )   PDF (268KB) ( 677 )   Save
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      The goal of this study was to improve the reproducibility and objectivity of determination of fish odor on cotton by nose. The static headspace-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry method was used to detect fish odor material trimethylamine in cotton fabrics and dynamics of multiple headspace extraction was discussed. Results showed that the most important influencing factor was equality temperature. The high equality temperature leads to rapid diffusion speed and sensitiveness of the material being tested. But too high the temperature results in decomposition of the material. Linearity range of this method is good, with the recovery over 90 %, detection limit 20µg/mL, and RSD 5.98%. This method is simple, rapid and accurate, and can be applied for determining the fish odor in the cotton fabrics. And the concentration of trimethylamine varying with time conforms to the first-order reaction dynamics.

      Absorption kinetics of Direct Yellow R on magnetically responsive yeast cells
      LI Shuangjiang;SHEN Mao;WU Qi;SHAN Zhi;CHEN Hui
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  73-78. 
      Abstract ( 1115 )   PDF (318KB) ( 501 )   Save
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      The nano-sized magnetic fluid in aqueous phase solution was prepared to modify the inactivated yeast cells. The modified yeast cells with good magnetic response were used to adsorb Direct Yellow R. The results showed that the adsorption capacity of modified yeast cells reached 1109.5122 μg/mg of Direct Yellow R at the concentration of 600 μg/mL, and adsorption equilibrium was achieved within 20 min. The adsorption equation was well fitted using Langmuir isothermal line, belonging to single molecular layer adsorption and conforming to the pseudo-second-order apparent kinetics equation. The adsorptive process was controlled by chemical mechanism. Because of the strong adsorption capacity, high adsorption speed and easy magnetic separation of the magnetically modified yeast cells as compared with yeast or magnetic fluid alone, their potential applications include treatment of waste water resulting from water-soluble dyes, helping reduce the pollution to the soil and water.

      Study of dyeing on cotton pile fabrics with Anozol ECO reactive dyes
      TIAN Tian;MAO Yahong;GUAN Yu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  79-83. 
      Abstract ( 1120 )   PDF (405KB) ( 347 )   Save
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      Continuous pad-dyeing of cotton pile fabrics with reactive dyes often leads to chromatic difference between the tip and valley of the pile, streak dyeing on the pile face, and shading on the back of pile fabric. For this reason, Anozol ECO reactive dyes were used to dye cotton pile fabrics followed by wet steaming. The dyeing result was evaluated based on compatibility of dyes, K/S value, depth of shade, color difference between the face and back of the dyed fabrics. The optimum dyeing conditions were obtained by single factor tests, i. e. , dye 5g/L; auxiliary 10mL/L, anhydrous Na2SO4 50g/L, Na2CO3 40g/L, steaming time 1.5min. When compared with the dyeing-curing process, this dyeing method featured lower energy consumption, good dyed depth, brilliant shade, and reduced color difference between the face and back of the dyed fabrics.

      Stripping technology for vortex spun cotton yarn packages
      LIU Deju;WANG Huayin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  84-87. 
      Abstract ( 1229 )   PDF (130KB) ( 611 )   Save
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      Stripping technique for cortex spun cotton yarn package is designed in order to achieve good stripping result and minimize the strength loss of the stripped yarns. The research results show that the stripping results of deep shade-and middle to deep shade-and light shade cotton yarns were influenced by various stripping conditions such as amounts of sodium carbonate and sodium hydrosulfite, stripping time and temperature, and number of stripping. The optimized stripping process conditions were obtained through single factor analysis. For light shade cotton yarns, the optimum conditions include sodium carbonate 2g/L, sodium hydrosulfite 4g/L, treating at 90~100℃ for 40~60 min. In the case of deep shade-and middle to deep shade cotton yarns, sodium carbonate 4g/L, sodium hydrosulfite 6g/L, treating at 100℃ for 60min are reqiured. This stripping technique has good stripping results for cortex spun cotton yarn packages and maximizes the strength retention of the cotton yarns.

      Modified PAN fiber-Fe (III) complex catalyzing degradation of azo dyes in dark
      Wang Zhichao;DONG Yongchun;HAN Zhenbang;
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  88-95. 
      Abstract ( 1026 )   PDF (674KB) ( 438 )   Save
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      A modified PAN fiber-Fe (III) complex (Fe-AO-PAN) was prepared by a coordinated reaction between amidoximated PAN fiber and ferric chloride solution, and then used as a heterogeneous Fenton catalyst for the degradation of azo dyes with different structures. The relationship between Fe-AO-PAN dosage (M), ferric content of Fe-AO-PAN, decolorization rate (D), and initial degradation rate constant (k) of the dyes in the dark was investigated. Moreover, degradation process of the dyes and the effect of inorganic salt on degradation were also studied. The results indicated that the oxidative degradation of the azo dyes in water could be catalyzed effectively by Fe-AO-PAN in the dark, and reactive dyes showed higher initial degradation rate constants than acid dyes at the same conditions. Besides, there exists a linear relationship between M and CFe-PAN and D and k within initial reaction 50 min in the dark, and increasing quantitatively M and CFe-PAN could accelerate the dye degradation and obtain the same degradation effect as under irradiation.

      Antibacterial property of fabric treated with a fiber-reactive chitosan derivative
      PAN Hong;ZHAO Tao;
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  96-101. 
      Abstract ( 1156 )   PDF (249KB) ( 780 )   Save
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      N-hydroxypropyl lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride chitosan (HDCC) was prepared by introducing epoxypropyl lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride to the amino-group of chitosan (CTS) with a degree of deacetylation about 85%, and then HDCC with good water solubility was crosslinked with N-hydroxymethyl acrylamide (NMA), thus obtained the end product of a novel chitosan derivative O-acrylamidomethyl-N-[(2-hydroxy-3-dodecyl ammonium) propyl] chitosan chloride (NMA-HDCC) that can form covalent bond with cellulosic fiber. The antibacterial experiment demonstrated that the cotton fabrics treated with CTS, HDCC and NMA-HDCC all showed above 95% bacteria inhibiting ratio against Bacillus coli, and HDCC, in particular, showed nearly 100%. After 30 washing cycles, the cotton fabric treated by NMA-HDCC exhibited above 85% bacteria inhibiting rate, though those treated by CTS, chitosan quaternary ammonium salt exhibited little effect. For durable antibacterial effect, the optimal process conditions for treating cotton fabrics with NMA-HDCC were determined as follows: mass concentration of finishing agent, 2 g/L, curing at 140℃ for 5 min.

      Discharge printing of cashmere products
      WANG Liping;WU Zhiyun;GAO Jianyun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  102-106. 
      Abstract ( 1246 )   PDF (323KB) ( 434 )   Save
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      According to the characteristics of cashmere fabric, a discharge printing process is suggested which has good applicability, even and full ground color, and high color fastness. Selection of dyestuffs and auxiliaries for discharge printing of cashmere fabrics was discussed, and the influence of amount of discharging agent amount on the discharged whiteness and the K/S value of the fabric as well as the influence of temperature on the build-up of dyes and dischargeability were studied. The results demonstrated that acidic dye Duolilan and discharging agent Langqielie C and BR-1(compound)were suitable for the ground shade in discharge printing, and the dosages of both dyes and discharge agent were in the range of 11%~13%. The K/S value of Lanasyn S dyed ground shade increased with the increase of dosage of Langqielie C and BR-1. Acidic dye Duolilan exhibited good build-up property when dyeing was carried at 85-95℃ and the discharged whiteness of fabrics was affected by temperature.

      服装工程
      Research on subdividing of the human body recognition based on 3D body measurement
      QIAN Xiaonong;YIN Bing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  107-111. 
      Abstract ( 1265 )   PDF (589KB) ( 679 )   Save
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      A non-contact 3D body measurement system was used to perform measurements of young females from north China, and the measured data included the size of shoulder, bust, and hip width etc. These dimensions are used as eigenvalues, constitute feature vectors of bodily form. In recent years, excessive uncoordinated sizes of partial body appeared in Chinese people. So it’s important to detail the human body segment recognition. First, the probability distributions of certain feature size were investigated, and then the human bodily forms were divided into three types of underweight, normal, overweight, using clustering analysis of . Finally, it is suggested to use Mahalanobis Distance to analyze the problem of body symmetry. The experimental results demonstrate that this method is effective for detailing the human body segment recognition.

      Changes of the ancient costume culture of She Nationality
      YAN Jing;FAN Xuerong;WU Weiwei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  112-116. 
      Abstract ( 1312 )   PDF (364KB) ( 776 )   Save
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      Based on historical documents, this paper discusses the change trace of ancient costume culture of She Nationality from Han and Tang dynasties right through to Yuan, Ming, and Qing Dynasties, including the development process of She costume, and the life and culture background of She. Its entire development and evolution process can be divided into four historical periods: the original time, multi-source integration time, simplicity time in the period of moving from one place to another, and harmonious maturity time. The art features of She costumes in different historical periods are addressed in respect of color, style, decoration and so on, along with the effect of She culture and life on the development and changes of She costumes. The change rule of She clothing is investigated in order to attract the attention of people on national costume and culture.

      Study of bust curve of standard female figure
      LIU Hong;ZHANG Ming;CHEN Dongsheng;WEI QUfu;WANG Jiangang;ZHAO Li;TU Hongyan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  117-120. 
      Abstract ( 1033 )   PDF (187KB) ( 559 )   Save
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      A smart 3D body scan instrument made by Lectra company in France was used for measuring 18 healthy female participants ageing from 22 to 25, whose bodies were all close to 160/84A, and the bust curves over the nipple were intercepted in the software of the instrument. The paper set a point every 5°and found out the average coordinates of the points on 18 female body bust curve by writing code in MatLab 7.0, namely, the coordinates of the points on standard female body bust curve. Based on the coordinates of the points, the standard female body bust curve was fitted by using Origin software. To ensure a higher R2, taking into account the convenience of calculating the curvature of female body bust curve, the relatively simple quadratic polynomial function was finally chosen to express the function of standard female body bust curve, which provided a data base for further calculation of the clothing pressure on female body bust.

      Designing fashion stores from standpoint of lifestyle and visual merchandizing
      JIN Chenyi
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  121-126. 
      Abstract ( 1014 )   PDF (724KB) ( 663 )   Save
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      With increasing competition of domestic apparel industry, fashion terminal store has become one of the core competitiveness of the fashion brand. To adapt to the diversified developing trends of modern lifestyle, the fashion marketing, as a marketing terminal, has ushered in the era of visual marketing. Starting from the emerging background of modern lifestyle, this article systematically analyzed the developing trend of lifestyle, and presented the modern visual marketing strategy suitable for the modern lifestyle. Having studied the fashion store design in terms of personality, mood and environment, and style, it is suggested that visual marketing of fashion stores be brand-driven to cater to consumers’ demand and guide consumers to focus on brand experience. A multifunctional and aesthetic sales surrounding through effective and innovative arrangement and display are created, achieving maximum benefit via brand display.

      机械与器材
      Research and optimization of four gear continuous take-up mechanism’s weft density
      LIU Tieshan;YE Zhongqi
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  127-130. 
      Abstract ( 1014 )   PDF (148KB) ( 422 )   Save
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      With regard to the weft density distribution condition of four-gear continuous take-up mechanism on loom, this study has developed a “weft density demonstration and optimization system” based on VFP. Through inputting the parameters of the take-up mechanism into this system, analyzing the rule of density distribution, and finding out cause leading to uneven distribution of weft density, it concluded that by using 4 transform gears the continuous take-up mechanism can meet the requirements for weft density of fabrics, but it can not guarantee the continuous distribution in all density gradients. It is proposed that for cotton, wool and linen production, different configuration parameters of the gear should be considered. 3 sets of specific and optimized programs for gears more than 17 teeth are presented, in which, at least there is one group of spare gear that consists of 7 only.

      Design of host computer software for automatic computerized flat knitting machine
      CHEN Jingbo;LU Da;WANG Lingling
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  131-135. 
      Abstract ( 1054 )   PDF (610KB) ( 543 )   Save
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      For the validity of host computer software for computerized flat knitting machine, this paper presents a design approach based on PC104 module and WinCE platform. This software analyzes pattern documents to get the control data, utilizes the PC104 bus to transfer them to the slave computer, simultaneously it accomplishes the data analysis, processing and display according to the field information and realizes the man-machine conversation. The multi-thread programming and modular design technologies are used and important modules first work. Application results prove that PC104 module’s powerful processing capabilities greatly reduce the burden of the slave computer. Compared with the traditional software, it is characterized by user-friendly, complete function, real-time, implantable, and high practical value.

      管理与信息化
      Design capability appraisal and design pattern evolution of textile and garment enterprises
      Chen Xuesong;WU Guanrong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  136-141. 
      Abstract ( 1071 )   PDF (293KB) ( 465 )   Save
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      Based on analysis of the literature with a perspective of innovation, this paper concludes a rating scale of design capability and main indexes and proposes the concept of design pattern. According to the dimensions of strategy and organization, the existing design patterns are classified into 5 type. Then some hypotheses about the relationship between the choice of design pattern and the design capability are given. We carried out a survey and a case study in the textile and garment industry in Zhejiang Province in China. The result suggests that in certain environment, the companies’ design capability using different design patterns shows significant difference, and the development of design capability is path-dependent upon the evolution of the design pattern.

      Information service platform architecture design for chemical fiber industry based on service collaboration
      DING Xianghai;ZHANG Shuren
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  142-148. 
      Abstract ( 920 )   PDF (316KB) ( 354 )   Save
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      In order to meet the requirement of individualized and customized information service and improve information resource utilization, an information service collaboration system for the chemical industry is designed. After in-depth analysis of the information service requirement of the chemical fiber industry,an architecture of information service collaborative system is constructed. The architecture consists of five levels,application layer, service management, Web service layer, resource link layer and physical resources layer. A list of multiple view models including resource, function, organization, and process views are analyzed. This study provides a theoretical and technical support for the information service collaborative platform development for the chemical fiber industry.

      综合评述
      Research progress in ageing effect of surface modification by low temperature plasma
      WANG Zhenxin;LIANG Xiaoping;WANG Yueran;REN Wanting;FU Zhongyu;LI Jian;NIE Jinmei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(2):  149-154. 
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      Low temperature plasma, as a novel surface modification technology, is characterized by clean, high efficiency and energy-saving. Plasma treatment can improve the surface properties of polymer materials without affecting their bulk features, which impart itself a potentially abroad application in the field of surface modification. However, the plasma-improved surface properties usually decay with time, known as ageing effect of plasma treatment. The mechanism and characterization methods of aging effect as well as approaches to overcome ageing effect were briefly reviewed. The influences of polymer structure, plasma treatment parameters, such as gas, treating time and power, and storage environment on ageing behavior were especially discussed.