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Table of Content

    15 March 2011, Volume 32 Issue 3
    • 纤维材料
      A study on structure and properties of PPy-UHMWPE fibers
      BIAN Lina;XIAO Changfa;JIN Xin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  1-4. 
      Abstract ( 1178 )   PDF (830KB) ( 655 )   Save
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      In view of the poor interfacial bonding performance between the ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) fiber and resin, this research attempted to make polypyrrole-ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (PPy-UHMWPE) composite fibers by liquid-phase deposition polymerization, using ferric chloride as the oxidizing agent. After that, the epoxy resin micro-droplets with a diameter of 300-700μm were put on the fiber, and the pulled out experiments were carried out on the fiber / micro-drop specimens. The experimental results showed that the interfacial shear strength between the PPy-UHMWPE fiber and epoxy resin was 2 times higher than that of untreated fiber and epoxy resin. The surface morphology and structure of the fibers before and after treatment were investigated respectively by SEM, FT-IR, DSC and DMA, and it was found there is no chemical bond between PPy and UHMWPE chain in the PPy-UHMWPE fibers. PPy-UHMWPE fibers exhibited monomorph characteristics and the melt point decreased a little.

      Preparation, characterization and photocatalytic properties of Fe3+ doped TiO2 nanofibers
      WU Ning;;WEI Qufu;CHEN Li;XIA Xin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  5-9. 
      Abstract ( 1209 )   PDF (733KB) ( 455 )   Save
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      The inorganic/organic composite nanofibers were prepared by electrospinning and sol-gel process, followed by high temperature calcining, and the resultant Fe3+ doped TiO2 nanofibers were characterized by various advanced apparatus in respect of the `morphology, crystal form, surface porosity structure and photocatalytic properties. The results showed that owing to the doping of Fe3+ the surface pore structures of TiO2 nanofibers were obviously improved, and the cell parameters and crystallinity were varied to certain extent. Doping proper amount of Fe3+ significantly enhanced the photocatalytic properties of TiO2 nanofibers.

      Modification of silk fibroin nanofibrous scaffold and its blood compatibility
      WANG Shudong;;ZHANG Youzhu;LIU Hua;WANG Hongwei;DONG Zhihui
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  10-14. 
      Abstract ( 1216 )   PDF (896KB) ( 543 )   Save
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      The electrospun silk fibroin nanofibrous scaffolds were modified with heparin by grafting after plasma treatment and blending electrospinning. The effect of the modification was evaluated by means of SEM and XPS. Platelet adhesion tests and in vitro coagulative time tests were carried out on the silk fibroin nanofibrous scaffolds before and after modification. The results showed that the heparin was successfully introduced to the silk fibroin nanofibrous scaffolds by both two kinds of modification. In vitro coagulative time tests showed that the APTT, PT and TT of the heparin-modified scaffolds were significantly higher than that of the pure silk fibroin scaffolds. Platelet adhesion and aggregation was found on the pure silk fibroin scaffolds. However, it could not be seen on the heparin-modified scaffolds.

      Preparation and photocatalytic properties of ZnO nanofibers
      XU Shu-yan;ZHANG Pei-pei; XIONG Jie
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  15-20. 
      Abstract ( 1089 )   PDF (532KB) ( 600 )   Save
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      PVP/Zn(CH3COO)2 composite nanofibers were prepared by electrospinning, and then subjected to high temperature sintering to obtain ZnO nanofibers. Thermal gravimetric analysis, X-ray energy dispersive spectroscopy, fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction and field-emission scanning electron microscope were used to characterize the purity, crystal form, and morphology of the fibers before and after sintering. Experiments were carried out using methylene blue(MB) as the pollutant object to evaluate the photocatalytic activity of ZnO nanofibers. The effects of the UV irradiation time and the sintering temperature on the degree of photocatalytic degradation were investigated. Compared to ZnO nanoparticles, it is shown that ZnO nanofibers have good photocatalytic properties and reuse performance.

      Change of temperature inside silk filter tip in course of simulating someone smoking cigarette
      TIAN Baozhong;GUO Hengyong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  21-24. 
      Abstract ( 1286 )   PDF (240KB) ( 776 )   Save
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      An experiment was designed to continuously measure the change of temperature inside the filter tip with a thermocouple in the course of simulating someone smoking the cigarette. The temperature variation curves inside the silk filter (SF) and cellulose diacetate filter (CDF) tips was tested. The results indicated that the change of temperature inside SF is much smaller than that inside CDF in the course of simulating someone smoking the cigarette. According to our analysis, when compared with cellulose diacetate, silk has smaller diameter, and on its surface exist more special functional groups and reactive groups, making it beneficial for adsorption of cigarette smoke compounds whose molecules transfer more heat from the smoke flow to the silk. Thus, the temperature rise inside SF tip is lessened.

      Preparation and characterization of meta-aramid/ cellulose acetate nanofibers
      YAO Lirong;ZHANH Wei;ZHOU Qi
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  25-29. 
      Abstract ( 1535 )   PDF (1382KB) ( 874 )   Save
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      The cellulose acetate/ DMAc solution is unable to be electrospun into ultra fine fiber. However, the cellulose acetate/meta-aramid solution with a mass ratio 1:2 can be successfully electrospun into uniform nanofibers. The beads on the nanofibers decreased gradually as the mass ratio of cellulose acetate/meta-aramid in the solution and the mass concentration of the solution increased. The thermal property of cellulose acetate/meta-aramid nanofibers improved significantly as compared with aramid nanofibers, and the thermal loss process of aramid nanofibers occurred at around 150℃, whereas it occurred at 250℃ for cellulose acetate/meta-aramid nanofibers.

      Stochastic simulation on dynamic behavior of floating fibers in roll drafting process
      SU Yuheng;YAN Guangsong;REN Jiazhi
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  30-35. 
      Abstract ( 1014 )   PDF (465KB) ( 498 )   Save
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      Obtaining the dynamic behavior of fibers in the drafting zone through various simulation approaches is one of the important contents for the investigation of roll drafting. In consideration of fiber length distribution, the attenuation curve of the sliver in the drafting zone is given by using the method of parabolic density function for accelerated points proposed by previous researchers. Simulated results of the attenuation curves of the silver are discussed under different parameters such as drafting ratio, and fiber length distribution. The simulated curves of fiber proportions in the fast drafting zone and the slow drafting zone are presented. For a given fiber length distribution, the number of fiber and the CV of these fibers at the front nip are simulated. The simulated results are in good agreement with previous simulated data. This research lays a foundation for the prediction of drafted unevenness of the output slivers.

      Influence of moisture regain on effects of atmospheric pressure plasma treatment
      WANG Chunxia;DU Mei;QIU Yiping
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  36-41. 
      Abstract ( 1110 )   PDF (539KB) ( 365 )   Save
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      As to the existence of water in atmospheric pressure plasma (APP) treatment, the influence of aramid fiber moisture regain on the atmospheric pressure plasma treatment effects was investigated. The aramid fibers with different moisture regains (0.5%, 3.5%, 5.5%) were treated by atmospheric pressure plasma. The dynamic contact angle and the interfacial shear strength (IFSS) of the control and the treated fibers were measured. The morphological and chemical changes on the fiber surface were characterized by Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM) and X-ray Photoelectron Spectra (XPS) respectively. It was discovered that with the increment of fiber moisture regain, the advancing and receding angles were decreased, while the IFSS, roughness and polar groups on the treated fiber surface were increased. Therefore, it was concluded that the existence of water in fiber promoted the atmospheric plasma treatment effects in surface property improvement of aramid fiber.

      Length variations of cashmere fibers
      LV Yin;YANG Jianzhong;LI Fazhou
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  42-46. 
      Abstract ( 1039 )   PDF (617KB) ( 534 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problems caused by cashmere fiber’s variation in production, the variation degree and variation trend of cashmere fiber’s length performance were studied. According to the different structure shapes and performance characteristics of variation cashmere, we have carried out the classification of the original cashmere fibers. Through contrasting the length performance of the variation cashmere and the normal cashmere fibers, we have obtained the mean length value and the length distribution of each type of fibers. And finally, we summarize the variation tendency and give some suggestions. The experimental results revealed that the average length of variation cashmere increased and the length uniform improved, which were beneficial to processing. The distribution of long fiber was more concentrated, which facilitated research. The increase of heterotypical fiber quantity increased the difficulty of processing and decreased the quality of products. The content of coarse cashmere was decreased. The fiber length varied with samples markedly, and the length distribution of each type of fibers in a sample was also varied.

      纺织工程
      Effect of flat speed of a card on fiber length distribution of strips
      ZHANG Mingguang;SUN Pengzi;CAO Jipeng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  47-50. 
      Abstract ( 1348 )   PDF (185KB) ( 578 )   Save
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      The relation between flat speed of a card and fiber length distribution of strips was studied. The fiber length distribution of strips which were produced under 9 kinds of flat speed was tested by Roller Fiber Length Measurement Instrument. The results show that the flat speed has great effect on fiber length distribution of strips, and the higher the flat speed, the more the long fiber content, and the short fiber content is lessened accordingly. Long fibers filled in flat can’t be transferred easily and they are transferred to cylinder for longer time during carding by the cylinder and flat. Based on the relation between flat speed and fiber length distribution of strips, it is concluded that flat speed shouldn’t be too high, usually less than 450 mm/min is suitable

      Comparing prediction models for worsted yarn performances based on neutral networks
      LI Xiang;PENG Zhiqin;JIN Fengying;GU Zongdong;XUE Yuan;HU Guoliang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  51-56. 
      Abstract ( 969 )   PDF (633KB) ( 533 )   Save
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      A study to investigate the prediction abilities of BP and RBF neutral networks for worsted yarn performances used the process parameters collected from the fore-spinning and post-spinning as input vectors and yarn unevenness value (CV) and breaking strength (BS) indicating the worsted yarn performances as output vectors. Two software computing tools, i. e., back-propagation (BP) neural network and radial basis function (RBF) neural network, were used to establish the prediction models for the CV and BS of the yarn respectively, and the prediction abilities of the two models were evaluated from the view point of statistics. The results show that the training speed of RBF neural network model is significantly higher than that of the BP neural network model, which are under the conditions of large-scale input samples, high input dimensions and same accuracy, but the forecasting performance of BP neural network model is slightly better than that of RBP neural network model, especially in face of abnormal sample, and BP neural network model shows better fault-tolerant capacity.

      Image-analysis of cross section slice of sized warp by Gaussian fitting
      ZHONG Cenran;JIN Chunkui
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  57-60. 
      Abstract ( 1117 )   PDF (316KB) ( 400 )   Save
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      In order to analyze the cross-sectional slice images of sized warp objectively and reduce subjective factors on the results, this paper presents an approach to analyze the gray-scale histogram of cross section slice image of sized warp by Gaussian Fitting. We get the distribution of interval of sizing factors in histogram based on the components analysis about main item, sub-items and other items of the Gaussian fitting results. The spread of slurry, sizing percentage and relative radius of pulpiness distribution were calculated with 3δ principle and the normal characteristics of gray in the interval. The experimental results agree with practical values.

      Discussion on remote quality inspection system for digital evaluation of textile appearance
      XIN Binjie;LIU Yan;LIN Lantian;LIU Xiaoxia
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  61-66. 
      Abstract ( 1180 )   PDF (209KB) ( 473 )   Save
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      Subjective evaluation method based on human eyes is still applied in the traditional textile industry to assess the quality of textiles, which has the disadvantages of low efficiency, fatigue and subjective. As a modern means of testing, image analysis technique is introduced and adopted in the textile testing field gradually, contributing to the speeding up of the process of digital textile testing. On the basis of image analysis technology, the concept of visual quality inspection system is presented for the objective evaluation of the textiles appearance, including its hardware configuration, software framework, the basic mode of the inspection system, the possibility analysis of remote quality inspection implementation and the integration of the quality management system. The advantages and disadvantages of both the traditional methods and digital evaluation methods are also analyzed. Artificial intelligent quality inspection system of textile appearance should be the final solution sooner or later.

      Test and analysis of compact-spun-yarn fabric
      MA Qin;LIU Xuefeng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  67-69. 
      Abstract ( 1004 )   PDF (117KB) ( 528 )   Save
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      A study to get better understanding the serviceability of compact-spun-yarn fabrics and develop marketable products compared the compact-spun-yarn fabrics and ordinary ring-spun-yarn fabrics of same specifications in terms of strength and elongation, abrasive resistance, air permeability, wrinkle recovery, fluffing and pilling resistance, and wettability. The results show that the compact-spun-yarn fabric has good strength and elongation. Its abrasive resistance, air permeability, wrinkle recovery, fluffing and pilling resistance are all excelled those of ordinary ring-spun-yarn fabric obviously except the wettability. Because of its high strength, abrasion resistance, smoothness, wrinkle resistance, and air permeability, the compact-spun-yarn fabrics are suitable for high-grade men’s shirts and bedding.

      Testing light shielding properties of fabrics
      LIU Xiaosong;GAO Yonghong;WANG Fumei;SHI Meiwu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  70-76. 
      Abstract ( 1017 )   PDF (659KB) ( 910 )   Save
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      This paper studies the applicability and feasibility of using the test results of whiteness tester and UV-Vis spectrophotometer in combination with subjective visual assessment to characterize the light shielding properties of fabrics. The results showed that the value of whiteness R457 and the value of transparency Vt which were obtained by whiteness tester reflected the visual clarity of fabric in a certain extent. However, the dependence of visual clarity of dyed fabrics on the transparency value Vt was low as compared with the white fabrics. The transmission coefficients of monochromatic light within the scope of visible lights could be measured by UV-Vis spectrophotometer, and the average the transmission coefficients Tj is more suitable for characterization and evaluation of the light shading performance of fabrics, especially coloured fabrics. The relationship between the Tj and the visual clarity of fabrics is much closer than that of Vt and visual clarity. The smaller the average transmission coefficient Tj , the better the shading performance of fabric. The experiments also proved that the fabrics were visible when the Tj was larger than 40%, but when the Tj was smaller than 20%, the fabrics were invisible.

      染整与化学品
      Dyeing properties of modified copolyester fibers
      SUN Yu;ZHENG Guo;ZHOU Lan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  77-81. 
      Abstract ( 1142 )   PDF (279KB) ( 592 )   Save
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      In order to improve the dyeing performance of polyester fibers, ECDP fibers were dyed with cationic dyestuff, and their dyeing properties were studied systematically. The results showed that the isothermal adsorption curve of ECDP fibers was in accordance with L-type (Langmuir-type). The dyeing saturation values of ECDP were higher than those of PET, CDP and PAN fibers. Its dyeing depth was comparable to that of PAN. ECDP fibers showed S type adsorption curve, high dye-uptake rate which could be further enhanced by rising the temperature or extending the holding time. The pH of the dye bath should be controlled at around 4 - 5.

      Dyeing recipes prediction optimization for yarn color matching based on conjugate gradient method
      CHEN Dianhong;LI Haiming;XU Xinsheng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  82-85. 
      Abstract ( 956 )   PDF (153KB) ( 421 )   Save
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      In order to improve the accuracy and stability of the predicted yarn dyeing recipes, the conjugate gradient-based optimization method of dyeing recipes prediction is proposed for the color matching on the basis of the Kubelka-Munk theory, CIE 1976 L * a * b * uniform color space and the CIELAB color difference formula. The color matching objective function with constraints for dyeing recipes prediction optimization is deduced. Finally, through the self-developed color measuring & matching system and Minolta CM2600D (a spectral color measurement instrument) with D65 light source, a lot of experiments are carried out for yarn color measuring and matching. The experimental results show that the colors obtained by calculated dyeing recipes using the above-mentioned method are close to the standard ones of yarn samples and the color difference between the optimization results and actual dying recipes is little. The optimization results have nothing to do with the initial value, and the calculation process is stable and reliable, and has strong convergence and high reproducibility.

      Preparation and Structure characterization of control-released fragrant PVA microcapsules
      SHI Fujuan;YANG Junling
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  86-90. 
      Abstract ( 1052 )   PDF (361KB) ( 530 )   Save
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      Fragrant microcapsules was synthesized by interfacial polymerization using polyvinyl alcohol as sheath material, rose perfume as core, and glutaraldehyde as the crosslinking agent. The effects of reaction temperature, sheath/ core ratio, dosages of emulsifier and crosslinking agent on the shape and control release properties of the microcapsules were studied. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy was used to examine the particle size distribution and structure of the microcapsules. The results showed that microcapsules with a diameter of 47.7716μm can be obtained under the following process conditions: emulsifier 0.15g, sheath/ core ratio = 2:3, hydrochloric acid (as catalyst) 1mL, glutaraldehyde 2mL, reacting at 40℃ for 3 h.

      Crease and shrink resistant finishing of bamboo viscose fibers
      LIU Yulei;MENG Jiaguang;HU Haixia
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  91-94. 
      Abstract ( 1091 )   PDF (258KB) ( 480 )   Save
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      For better understanding the cause which leads to the shrinking and deformation of bamboo viscose fibers, the properties of bamboo viscose fibers and their yarns were tested with two-step method. Firstly, slack alkali treatment of bamboo viscose fiber hank was performed under the conditions: mass concentration of alkali 150g/L, treating at 30℃ for 2min, followed by neutralization treatment with mass concentration of 2% H2SO4(Zn2+,Mg2+), treating for 5min, thus preliminary shrink resistant effect was obtained. Secondly, resin finishing of bamboo viscose fiber fabric was carried out. The effect of the dosage of finishing agent on the crease recovery angle, shrinkage, formaldehyde content, whiteness, bursting strength, and hand feeling of knitted sweaters made of the finished bamboo viscose fiber fabric was investigated. Through analyzing experimental data and charts, the optimal finishing process was determined as follows: glutaraldehyde resin (low-temperature self-crosslinking easy-care finish) 60g/L, catalysts 20 g/L, strong protective auxiliary 50g/L, softener SAPAMINE®HS 10g/L。

      Fungus resistance of textiles treated by a novel antibacterial and mildew resistant agent
      QIAN Tingting;SU Haijia;TAN Teanwei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  95-99. 
      Abstract ( 1175 )   PDF (443KB) ( 885 )   Save
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      A novel antibacterial and mildew resistant agent (ABMR) was prepared through compounding nano TiO2 and chitosan and then applied on the surface of the cotton fabric. The fungus resistance of the treated fabric was investigated under daylight. The experimental results revealed that the agent compounded from chitosan and nano-TiO2 has synergistic effect, greatly enhancing its inactivity ratio against fungus. The cotton fabric with a loading amount of 1.5% of ABMR displayed excellent anti-fungus activities. Its inactivity ratio against Aspergillus niger reached 99.99% after 12 h. In the case of repeated use, its inactivity ratio kept over 99.5% after 24 h. Inactivity ratio against fungus of the treated fabric still reached 99.99% after 15 laundry cycles when tested after 24 h. In addition, the agent has little effect on the strength of the treated cotton fabrics and their wearing characteristics such as color and pH were conformed to the national anti-fungus textile standard.

      Synthesis and application of CTR-β-CD for inkjet printed fabric pretreatment
      CHEN Li;WANG Chaoxia
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  100-104. 
      Abstract ( 1092 )   PDF (476KB) ( 549 )   Save
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      The citric acid-β-cyclodextrin was synthesized from β-cyclodextrin and citric acid and applied on the pigment inkjet printed polyester fabric as pretreatment to improve the definition and color depth. The ester linkage absorption peak at 1736 cm-1 confirmed the formation of citric acid-β-cyclodextrin. The definition was increased from 12.5 % to 70.0%. It is indicated that the printed width was more close to the set width, the penetration was reduced. The enhanced K/S value of the printed color lump from 3.6 to 5.9 illustrated the improved color depth. The wettability and softness of the citric acid-β-cyclodextrin pretreated fabric was a little decreased when compared to the untreated one. SEM images clarified that the polyester fiber surface and the spaces between the adjacent fibers were covered with the film of citric acid-β-cyclodextrin, improving the roughness and reducing the capillary effect.

      服装工程
      Development of draping specific ease model
      ZHENG Juan;DAI Jianguo;XU Rongrong;CHEN Meizhen;SHAO Xinyang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  105-109. 
      Abstract ( 1135 )   PDF (631KB) ( 412 )   Save
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      In view of the increasing needs of draping technology in the clothing enterprises and the fact that it is difficult to master easing and adding based on a manikin in draping, the paper proposed to develop a draping model for the purpose of easing and adding. The concept, function and design ideas of the draping model were discussed with practical example. 3-D non-contact scanner was suggested for body measurement, and methods such as MER, graphics rotation, average discrete processing of discrete points, polar fitting and interpolation as well as MatLab program design could be used for processing and analyzing the data. Two methods to design ease model was presented, that is, addition design and subtraction design, along with individual applicability, making and trial application and verification of ease models.

      Analysis of folk custom contents implied in embroidered patterns of folk costumes in Modern Qilu
      QI Yan;FAN Xuerong;CUI Rongrong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  110-115. 
      Abstract ( 983 )   PDF (654KB) ( 648 )   Save
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      Based on the traditional embroidered folk garments and ornaments from modern Qilu areas in the Folk Costumes Museum of Jiangnan University and Shandong Art & Crafts Museum, this study discusses the folk garments and ornaments from modern Qilu areas in terms of the main theme, presentation skill and folk contents through analyzing typical folk costume patterns. Modern Qilu costume patterns have wide range of subjects and their composition and organization forms, coloring and design techniques have displayed the geographical characteristics of Qilu. Their folk contents coagulate plenty of folk emotion of Qilu women, and express worship to nature and life, as well as a kind of spiritual and religious sustenance of Qilu people.

      Aesthetics behind geometric abstract patterns on west Hunan minorities costumes
      ZHAO Jing;LIU Guanbin;ZUO Shuangxi
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  116-121. 
      Abstract ( 1171 )   PDF (411KB) ( 494 )   Save
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      As one of apparel cultures, the design patterns on west Hunan minorities costumes are rich in form and brilliant in color. Among them, the geometric abstract patterns are very important parts. Based on the culture & histories of several minorities in west Hunan, this paper presents the traditional aesthetics behind the geometric design patterns in west Hunan minorities, summarizes the unique aesthetics on several typical design patterns, and researches into implied meaning behind these patterns. Geometric abstract design patterns on west Hunan minorities costumes provides first-hand information for the research on minority folk cultures, and local conditions and customs, gives inspirations to contemporary design as well.

      机械与器材
      Testing device of fabric dynamic thermal conductivity based on MCU
      ZHANG Ruquan;ZHOU Shuangxi;TAO Rong;LIN Jianyong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  122-126. 
      Abstract ( 884 )   PDF (298KB) ( 418 )   Save
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      In order to objectively evaluate the warm-cool feeling of fabric,a testing device is developed for testing fabric dynamic thermal conductivity based on MCU. The device simulates the heat exchange process when the clothing is in contact with body, and fabric dynamic heat transmitting property is characterized by real-time measuring the surface temperature of fabric with MCU. This paper analyses the relation between the test parameters and the warm-cool feeling of fabrics, and explores the endothermic curves of cotton, wool, silk, and hemp by using the device. Experimental results indicated that the endothermic curve of textile raw materials varies with structural parameter. This testing device is suitable for objectively evaluation of the warm-cool feeling of fabric, and has good accuracy and reproducibility.

      Establishment and application of kinematics equations of beating-up motion based on Hermite polynomials
      LIN Wanhuan;WANG Ying;ZHAO Xiong;CHEN Jianneng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  127-132. 
      Abstract ( 1048 )   PDF (210KB) ( 478 )   Save
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      In order to let the beating-up mechanism operate smoothly and stably and meet the desired weaving requirement, this paper applies ideal kinematics equations to derive mechanism parameters in reverse. The acceleration curve equation of beating-up mechanism on a rapier loom is established using 4 sections of cubic Hermite interpolation polynomials. Then based on the acceleration curve equation and its corresponding boundary conditions, the velocity, displacement and jerk equations of beating-up mechanism on the rapier loom is deduced. The calculation of parameters in these kinematics equations is illustrated. By applying these kinematics equations to conjugate cam beating-up mechanism reverse calculation, the parameters of mechanism and the profile of conjugate cam with uniform changing curvature are obtained. The research results indicate that these established kinematics equations can satisfy the requirements of reverse calculation of conjugate cam beating-up mechanism’s parameters, and the required conjugate cam has good mechanical performance.

      Development of equipment for measuring high temperature and high relative humidity of steam in steaming process
      LI Fuchao;CHEN Qingguan;YANG Chengshuai
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  133-137. 
      Abstract ( 985 )   PDF (474KB) ( 520 )   Save
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      In view of the importance of controlling the temperature and humidity of steam in the steaming process and the temperature and humidity measuring problem of the steam due to overheating, We have developed an electronic equipment which can be mounted in steamers to display the temperature and relative humidity of the steam. The equipment consists of the high-precision temperature and humidity sensor SHT75 presented by Swiss Sensirion Company, the micro-controller PIC16F628 made by Microchip Technology Incorporation, an unique protection probe and TELFON shielded cables and electronic circuit with high temperature resistance, along with ingenious design of programming in assembly language. The device can be applied in adverse environmental conditions, automatically prevent steam from condensing, and display the high temperature and high relative humidity of the steam accurately.

      管理与信息化
      Size information extraction from 3-D body based on approximate shortest paths
      SONG Hongxing;LI Zhong;NI Hui;GAO Jun;PENG Chensong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  138-142. 
      Abstract ( 1063 )   PDF (568KB) ( 509 )   Save
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      Size information extraction from 3-D body is a key technology in 3-D garment CAD system. A new algorithm for computing the approximate shortest path between any two vertices on triangular meshes is presented. The algorithm firstly defines a cutting plane which intersects with a mesh. The initial path on the mesh surface is obtained by connecting intersection points. Then it improves the path algorithm according to spatial geometric mesh information. It determines the corrected position by constructing the intersecting plane which avoids the surface flattening. The efficiency and accuracy of the approximate shortest path is enhanced. In the end of this paper, the improved path algorithm is applied to the size information extraction of 3-D body and garment models, and good measurement results are achieved.

      Analysis of core competitiveness of textile and clothing industry in Guangdong province
      FAN Fujun;HE Xinwen;WANG Xiaoling;ZHONG Jianying;HUANG Yuanqin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  143-147. 
      Abstract ( 1149 )   PDF (120KB) ( 657 )   Save
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      After 3 rounds of discussion of 20 experts with more than 10 years’ experience in the textile and clothing sector in combination of weighting, analytical comparison and selection, the indexes of the core competitiveness of the textile and clothing sector in a 3 level system are determined with the top level containing 5 indexes, the mid-level, 12 and the bottom level, 31. A well designed questionnaire survey was conducted and the survey data received from over 200 selected professionals with different status and positions from the textile and clothing sector are processed, including various kinds of analysis such as average value, standard deviation, discrete coefficient, weighting, and vector. On this basis, the suggestions for enhancing the core competitiveness of the textile and clothing sector in Guangdong province are presented in respect of strategy planning, policy implementation, technological innovation, and personnel training.

      综合评述
      Advances in the research of PANI composite conductive fabrics
      TANG Junyun;DI Jianfeng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2011, 32(3):  148-152. 
      Abstract ( 936 )   PDF (136KB) ( 764 )   Save
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      PANI composite conductive fabric is a conductive material with good environmental stability. The overview addressed the relationship between the use of conductive fabric and the requirements of electrical properties,the application fields of PANI composite conductive fabric such as anti-static, electromagnetic shielding, the advantages and disadvantages of various conductive materials, the conductive principle, preparation methods, problems encountered and solutions, and research progress of PANI composite conductive fabric which now has emerged as a novel conductive alternative to the metal. The commonly used preparation methods, modification, and introduction of high-tech into the R& D of conductive fabrics are reviewed.