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Table of Content

    15 May 2009, Volume 30 Issue 05
    • 纤维材料
      Photochromic properties of rare-earth strontium aluminate luminescent fiber
      GE Mingqiao;ZHAO Jumei;GUO Xuefeng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  1-5. 
      Abstract ( 1248 )   PDF (386KB) ( 618 )   Save
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      The phase, luminescence spectrum, chromaticity and afterglow properties of red, yellow and blue rare-earth strontium aluminate luminescent fibers were measured by XRD, fluorescence spectrometer, spectral scanning-meter and illumi- nometer. The experiment results indicated that: the emission peak of yellow and blue luminescent fibers were located at 520nm,which were caused by transition of Eu2+; the crystal phase structure of red luminescent fiber was destructed, making the yellow light emission of 580nm, this maybe the transition of Dy3+of rare-earth strontium aluminate; the chromatic light of these three fibers were yellow, yellow-green and green; the illumination of these luminescent fibers showed the rule of red<blue<yellow<rare-earth strontium aluminate. Compared to rare-earth strontium aluminate, the afterglow life of luminescent fibers were extended.
      The structure and dissolution mechanism of cellulose carbamate
      Halidan MAMAT;Wumanjiang AL;MA Li;Guli Mira TURDI
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  6-10. 
      Abstract ( 1610 )   PDF (501KB) ( 540 )   Save
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      The structure of the cellulose carbamate were characterized by means of FTIR ,13 CP MAS、 element analysis, XRD, SEM, TG, DSC etc. The results showed that the chemical formula of cellulose carbamate with nitrogen mass fraction of 3.45% is ( C7H1106 )2N1 , namely, on average, one primary hydroxyl group of cellulose was substituted by one acyl amine.The basic structure of cellulose carbamate is cellulose, however its crystral structure was changed after reaction, and as the reaction went on, the crystalline surface of the product increased, the orientation degree, crystralline grade and thermal-stability decreased . It was observed by microscope that the dissolving process of CC was ascribed to the infinite swelling of CC molecules, which first occurred in amorphous region, then in miscro-crystalline surface by the resulting solotion which then penetrated into the inside of the microcrystals. Making crystal cells swell, diffuse, and finally CC was completely dissolved.
      Diameter distribution and antistatic property of PA6/Ag nanofiber
      Wang Hongbo;Wang Xi;He Yanli;Yu Hang;Gao Weidong;Li Jing;Jiang LingLing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  11-15. 
      Abstract ( 2109 )   PDF (584KB) ( 785 )   Save
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      The nylon 6 nanofibre containing silver particles with different concentrations were prepared via electrospinning. The diameter-distribution and morphology of nanofibres containing silver particles was analyzed by scan electric microscope(SEM),and it was found that when the silver mass fraction was in the range of 0.1%~0.4% and the solution concentration was 10%~16%, the average diameter distributed from 70nm to 90nm. The diameter of the nanofibre reduced as the content of silver particles increased and increased as the solution concentration raised. The TEM images indicated that the silver particles were well-distributed in the nanofibers, showing round or elliptical, and the average diameter was 11.9nm. All particles arranged along the nanofiber central axis line, and the long axis of some elliptical particles was parallel to nanofiber central axis. The results showed that as the content of silver particles increased, the antistatic property obviously improved.
      纺织工程
      Relationship between texture parameters and evenness of textured yarns
      JIANG Yan;YU Riming;JIANG Li;WANG Shanyuan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  16-19. 
      Abstract ( 1382 )   PDF (597KB) ( 522 )   Save
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      Evenness is an important factor in yarn appearance evaluation, different from the spun yarn, the mass evenness of textured yarn has nothing to do with its appearance evenness. A series of unifactor experiments concerning several parameters of filaments and texturing were designed as the first step heading for the final designing and controlling of textured yarn’s structure and properties. It has been proved that the evenness of the differential shrinkage filaments air-jet textured yarn can be controlled effectually by the different filament or multi-filament linear density, air-jet texturing and differential shrinkage parameters. The over feed and feeding method in air-texturing, the differential shrinkage rate and average shrinkage in differential shrinking can affect the CV value of air-jet textured yarn remarkably.
      Analysis of the effectiveness of combing machine based on cotton fiber length distribution by number
      YAN Guangsong;LIN Qian;REN Jiazhi;YU Chongwen
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  20-24. 
      Abstract ( 1464 )   PDF (577KB) ( 382 )   Save
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      Using the basic principle of probabilistic density functions, three cotton fiber length distributions by number (including one input and the two outputs cotton fibers) are compared, deducing the changing rule of the fiber length distribution during combing. The conditions under which fiber length distributions at both input and output should be met is discussed. The characterization curve of combing effectiveness of the combing machine is obtained by computation using solving linear equations. The work has shown that the computation method based on fiber length distributions can effectively evaluate the working efficiency of the combing machine. Furthermore, a reasonable indicator is given so that the fiber breakage during combing can be characterized. The findings can be used in optimizing the combing process and estimating the fiber breakage during combing and as a reference for the design of combers.
      Optimization of air pressure combination in manufacturing parallel ply yarn
      JU Chengjun;CHENG Longdi;YU Jianyong;XUE Wenliang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  25-27. 
      Abstract ( 1300 )   PDF (639KB) ( 394 )   Save
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      This paper, using range analysis and variance analysis methods of orthogonal experiment study, tries to look for important factor and general factor that influence the wraping effect of the parallel ply yarn from the air pressure of Z-nozzle, network nozzle, S-nozzle, to judge if the air pressure of each nozzle has obvious effect on yarn quality. Then try to find the best pressuer combination. The conclusion is: the air pressure of network is the most important factor affecting the wrapping effect, and it has the most obvious effect on yarn quality; pressures of S-nozzle and Z-nozzle are general factors, and they don’t have obvious effect on yarn quality. Meanwhile the best air pressure combination is 0.1MPa (S-nozzle),0.2 MPa(network nozzle),0.1MPa(Z-nozzle). At this time, the hairiness-index of parallel ply yarn is the least, that means the hairiness has wrapped around parallel ply yarn well and the location of single yarns is fixed best in the ply yarn.
      Worsted roving forecast based on genetic algorithm and BP neural network
      LIU Gui;YU Weidong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  28-33. 
      Abstract ( 1169 )   PDF (686KB) ( 347 )   Save
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      Due to slow rate of convergence and falling into part minimums easily in BP algorithm, and wide search space, high search efficiency and big robustness of genetic algorithm (GA), a new improved genetic BP algorithm combining the two was put forward to model the fore-spinning process and forecast the quality. The weight and threshold matrix of the BP network were formed a string in an orderly way as the chromosome of GA. Through the operations of selection, crossover and mutation, they were optimized and used as the initial matrix of BP model to do second training. The verification for the same data indicates: the pure BP models can not achieve the expected precision or fall into part minimums, the models after optimization of GA all have fast convergence and achieve the expected precision. The relative mean error percent (MEP) between the forecast and the measured value of the 20 groups of testing samples are reduced to 2.55% and 2.23% from 3.56% and 3.48% respectively; the correlation coefficient between them are also improved.
      Effect of pressure bar in back drafting zone of SKF drafting system on spun yarn quality and optimizing drafting ratio
      REN Jiazhi;YANG Yuguang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  34-37. 
      Abstract ( 2056 )   PDF (623KB) ( 457 )   Save
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      For improving the quality of spun yarn, the break draft ratios of SKF drafting system have to be changed when two pressure bars are fitted additively. When the break draft ratio is too low, the twisted roving cannot be sufficiently draft in the break drafting zone, resulting in thick places in the spun yarn. When the break draft ratio is too great, a drafting wave in the drafting roving is caused, and the quality of spun yarn is influenced. The effect of the break draft ratios in SKF drafting system on CV value, thin places, thick places, neps, strength and elongation of spun yarn were analyzed. The results of our investigations reveal that when the break draft ratio is 1.35 with roller setting of 51 mm, the optimum spinning conditions are obtained for the roving of 0.545 g/m and 109 twist multipliers.
      Research on manufacture of double-layer bifurcated woven artificial blood vessel
      WANG Sheng;LI Yuling;LI Gang;CHEN Xuwei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  38-42. 
      Abstract ( 1219 )   PDF (711KB) ( 371 )   Save
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      In view of the current artificial blood vessel has many deficiencies in simulating human blood vessel and functional aspects. A fast forming manufacture method of double-layer bifurcated woven artificial blood vessel was proposed from the viewpoint of textile design. The corresponding structure design and looming method were researched in light of the modified weaving machine. The design of double-layer bifurcated woven artificial blood vessel was divided into: straight section, transition section and bifurcated section. Thus, the tear strength of the bifurcated part was ensured. To verify the validity of specific example’s design, the samples which meet the design objectives were obtained through test weaving. Analysis of the surface, vertical and horizontal cross-sections of scanning electron micrographs of the sample shows that the applied design and technical methods are feasible.
      Indentation force deflection property of cushioning warp-knitted spacer fabric
      MIAO Xuhong;GE Mingqiao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  43-47. 
      Abstract ( 1379 )   PDF (698KB) ( 642 )   Save
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      The aim of this work was to achieve a cushioning warp-knitted spacer fabric with good support and distribution of weight, the indentation force deflection (IFD) property of different warp-knitted spacer fabrics were studied. 13 specimens were knitted on double needle bar Rachel machine by changing the lengthwise density of the fabric, lapping angle and diameter of pile yarn and the distance of two comb bars. The compression stress and strain behaviors of samples were tested. The 25% IFD, 65% IFD and support factor are used to evaluate the IFD property of the fabric. How the density, lapping angle and diameter of pile yarn and the distance of the two comb bars influence the IFD property is analyzed. Preliminary results reveal that the period of give-in is the most important period in the compression study of spacer fabric, and with rational selecion of construction parameters, optimal cushioning warp-knitted spacer fabric can be manufactured.
      Development and performance study of PP anti- photooxidation aging spunbonds
      LIU Ya;LI Jing;ZHU Zhengxiao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  48-51. 
      Abstract ( 1264 )   PDF (817KB) ( 465 )   Save
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      ZN-P-type UV climate-resistant test machine was used to accelerate the aging process of PP anti- photooxidation aging spunbonds in this paper. The break strength and elongation of the PP anti-photooxidation aging spunbonds before and after experiment were tested to estimate its anti-aging properties, which were affected by the types and content of anti-aging agent, colour masterbatch and fixed quantify on the PP spunbonds. The results showed that the PP anti-aging spunbonds modified by hindered amine anti-aging agent displayed better anti-aging properties than the samples modified by UV anti-aging agent. Furthermore, it showed the best ratio of cost and performance with mass fraction of 2% ~ 2.2%. The anti-aging properties of PP spunbonds were affected considerablly by the addition of color masterbatch.
      Study of airflow field in spunbond process
      XU Baofeng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  52-57. 
      Abstract ( 1460 )   PDF (768KB) ( 491 )   Save
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      In order to understand the actual movement state,the process airflow in spunbond is studied by dint of computer software based on finite element analysis. The results substantiate that the rule of airflow in quench area differ from the idea of traditional chemical fiber process. There is no even horizontal wind in practice. Wind speed of upside less than lower consumedly. The effect of exhaust quantity on flow field is visible. The wind speed in draft path is very high,but keeps stable. The airflow in diffuse area is very subtle for structure dimension, adjusted state and process parameter. The main thing is to diffuse the high speed airflow and restrain the turbulence in diffuse area, especially on the net surface.
      Geometry model and experimental verification of 2.5-D woven composites
      CAO Haijian;QIAN Kun;SHENG Dongxiao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  58-62. 
      Abstract ( 1274 )   PDF (882KB) ( 2218 )   Save
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      In order to validate the relationship between structure and mechanical properties of 2.5-D woven fabric composites, the unit cell geometry model of 2.5-D woven composites was built by adopting the assumption of raceway fibers on the basis of the micrograph observation and ananlysis of the fabric section. The geometry model formular is used to deduce the length of yarns, the orientation angle of the nodulated yarns and the fiber volume content on some typical 2.5-D woven composites, such as shallow curve-linking structures, shallow straight-linking ones, and deep angle-linking ones, and tensile strength and compress strength of the composites are forecated. Experimental samples of meeting the need of 2.5-D woven composites are made and experiments are performed. Theoretical predictions agree well with the experimental results, thus the proposed model is verified.
      Low-velocity impact experiment and analysis of 3-D braided composites
      YANG Lingmin;JIAO Yanan;GAO Huabin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  63-67. 
      Abstract ( 1248 )   PDF (821KB) ( 492 )   Save
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      In the process of manufacturing, using and maintaining, 3-Dimensional (3-D) braided composites may subject to low-velocity impact from other objects, which will cause the damage of structure and decrease of load capacity. In this paper, low-velocity impact tests were conducted on 4-directional, 5-directional and 6-directional(4-Dir, 5-Dir and 6-Dir) glass/epoxy 3-D braided composites using Instron Dynatup 9250 drop weight impact test setup. Impact resistance characteristics were studied and the relationship between braided structure and the characteristics were established. Test results showed that braiding structure influenced the impact property evidently. Compared with 4-Dir and 5-Dir structure composites, 6-Dir braided composites needed more load and energy when main damage occurred. The damage of it continued shorter time and absorbed less energy. The major failure modes of 3-D braided composites included matrix cracking, fiber breakage when it was not being penetrated.
      染整与化学品
      Fluorescent property of fluorescent acrylic yarn
      HU Liang;WANG Lan;LIN Jun-xiong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  68-72. 
      Abstract ( 1604 )   PDF (975KB) ( 436 )   Save
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      In order to deal with the reduced fluorescent effect of fluorescent acrylic yarn after dyeing with common process, the fluorescent acrylic yarn was taken as the main research object. The influence of dyeing process factor, homochromy dyeing of tri-chromatic dyes and adding fluorescent whitening agents on the fluorescent effect of yarn was analyzed. The optimum dyeing process of fluorescent acrylic fiber was obtained by testing fluorescent reflectivity as follows: dyeing at 85℃ for 75 min with pH value = 3.5. In addition, the relationship between dyeing process and fluorescent property of fluorescent acrylic yarn was studied by analyzing its fluorescent spectra. The result showed that fluorescent acrylic yarn dyed with optimum process and appropriate dyes has favorable fluorescent effect. Fluorescent whitening agent can further improve the fluorescent effect during the combination dyeing process with Fluorescent Yellow 10GFF or Brilliant Red X-5GN.
      One-bath dyeing of cotton/ milk protein fiber blended yarn
      YUAN Jin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  73-77. 
      Abstract ( 1092 )   PDF (852KB) ( 395 )   Save
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      Aiming at the poor dyeing property of the cotton/milk protein fiber blended yarn, the effects of process factors such as dyestuff, resist agent, pH value, dyeing temperature and time on its homochromatism were discussed. The optimum process of one-bath dyeing of cotton/milk protein fiber blended yarn with reactive dyes was determined through orthogonal experiments. The results indicate that the blended yarns have obtained good homochromatism and high dye-uptake when one-bath dyeing of the yarns was performed with pH value= 8, resist agent 0.8g/L and trichromatic reactive dyes such as Red CN-7B、Blue CN-BL and Yellow CN-603 at 70°C for 40 min.
      Non-fluorinated superhydrophobic finish of cotton fabric
      GAO Qinwen;LIU Yuyong;ZHU Quan;GUO Yuliang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  78-81. 
      Abstract ( 1535 )   PDF (874KB) ( 605 )   Save
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      The aim of this study is to prepare water repellent cotton fabric via sol-gel method using non-fluorinated additives, thus avoiding the potential risk for environment from fluoroalkyl compounds. Superhydrophobic cotton fabric was successfully obtained first by dip-coating the silica sol, then the fabric was modified with alkyltrialkoxysilanes through self-assembly methods. Silica sols with different sizes were prepared by controlling the concentration of ammonia. The influence of silica nanoparticle sizes, structure and concentration of alkyltrialkoxysilanes, and washing cycles on water contact angle were discussed. Superhydrophobic cotton fabric with water contact angle of 155° can be achieved by this method. Scanning electron microscopy was used to observe the cotton fabric surfaces treated with and without silica sol. Physical and mechanical properties of cotton fabric showed a slight change after treatment.
      Supercritical CO2 enzymatic degrading of ramie gelatin and testing degradation products
      YANG Xiai;PENG Yuande;TANG Shouwei;YAN Li;WEN Lan;LIU Zhaotie;XIONG Heping
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  82-87. 
      Abstract ( 1205 )   PDF (953KB) ( 444 )   Save
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      The comparative study on degrading of ramie gelatin with enzymes under supercritical CO2 and normal atmosphere was carried out. The changing rule of main degradation product——sugar was analyzed by using DNS, HPLC and carbazole methods. Apparent examination of the degraded remie bast structure was conducted with SEM. The gelatin removal rate reached 17.2% when the pressure of supercritical CO2 was 10 Mpa with 0.4 % of pectinase, 0.2 % of hemicellulase, and the speed of 250 r/min for treating 3 h. Enzymic catalytic reaction was centralized within 2 h under the two systems and was shorter by 0.5 h under supercritical CO2. The highest value of TRS was 763 mg/20 g and, of glucose, 230 mg/20 g.
      Preparation of nanometer MgO and its application in antistatic finishing
      ZHANG Fan;YANG Junling;YE Zhanjie
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  88-94. 
      Abstract ( 1232 )   PDF (1044KB) ( 469 )   Save
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      For applying nano-particles to the funtional finishing of textiles, nanometer MgO was prepared by direct precipitation method with magnesium nitrate and sodium carbonate decahydrate as raw materials, and its structure and property were characterized by DSC and XRD. The effects of concentration and ratio of reactants, reaction temperature, calcining temperature and calcining time on the activity of MgO nanoparticles were analyzed, and the optimal reaction conditions for preparing nanosize MgO were determined as follows: reaction temperature 40℃, time of the ultrasonic vibration 50min, concentration of the reactant 1.5mol/L, ratio of the reactants 1:3, calcining temperature 550℃ and calcining time 2.5h. The antistatic properties of cotton and polyester fabrics finished with nanometer MgO as an antistatic finishing agent were tested. The results show that the treated fabrics have been imparted with good antistatic properties.
      PCM nanocapsules and smart thermoregulation cotton textiles made thereof
      LIN Heming;SI Qin;YANG Lei;WU Minghua
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  95-99. 
      Abstract ( 1317 )   PDF (966KB) ( 667 )   Save
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      To overcome the latent problems of microcapsules in their applications, two kinds of PCM (phase change materials) nanocapsules with different melting point are synthesized. The particle size as well as the heat storage capacity is investigated by TEM and DSC. Cotton knit fabrics are then treated with above two kinds of PCM microcapsules by a pad-dry-cure method with binder. The properties of thermoregulation and air permeability of the finished fabrics are evaluated by infrared thermometer and fabric air permeability meter. It is found that the diameters of the microcapsules are around 150 nm. The ratio by volume of shell to core is 1:1. The melting peak points are 37.1℃ and 33.1℃ respectively. The phase change enthalpies are 56.2J/g and 57.8J/g. After treatment, the fabrics are capable of absorbing about 7000 J/m2 heat. The temperature changing rate of the treated fabric slows down as the PCM experiences phase change, which demonstrates excellent thermoregulation function. The air permeability slightly reduced with respect to the add-on binder and microcapsules.
      Photocatalytic degradation of dyestuff wastewater with supported iron-tetrasulfophthalocyanine
      LÜChunyan;LÜTong;SU Qiuhong;HOU Liye;LÜXiaozhuo
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  100-103. 
      Abstract ( 1209 )   PDF (939KB) ( 410 )   Save
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      Iron-tetrasulfophthalocyanine as homogeneous photocatalyst was difficult to separate and couldn′t be reused. A supported catalyst was obtained by reaction between modified cotton fibers and iron-tetrasulfophthalocyanine. Upon visible light irradiation in the presence of H2O2, this catalyst was found to be highly effective for the degradation of nonbiodegradable active red. The effects of dosage of catalyst, pH value and lamp-house on the catalytic oxdition were investigated. The experiments indicated that active red in aqueous solution was decolored near 100% with COD removal rate of 67%, when the fiber dosage 1.0g/L, the H2O2 dosage 0.19mol/L, pH=4.93, irradiated by simulant visible light . The catalyst was recyclable and it wound not cause any secondary pollution.
      服装工程
      Influential factors of distance ease on typical cross sections
      XU Jihong;ZHANG Wenbin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  104-108. 
      Abstract ( 1233 )   PDF (982KB) ( 408 )   Save
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      The internal relationship between the distance ease, material mechanical properties and ease allowance was expounded. Chief factors affect the appearance of a garment was analyzed, and mechanical properties of various fabrics and the real ease distribution relationship between body and garment were provided for 3-D garment simulation. 3-D scanner was used to measure the standard body and clouds data was obtained. On this basis, the distance eases between the body and the garment at typical cross sections (bust, waist and hip) from any angle can be computed in respect of fabrics with different physical properties. The distance ease distribution rule of various garments relative to different fabrics was analyzed. The correlation of the distance ease, material mechanical properties and ease allowance was discussed. The primary factors which affected distance eases were obtained using step-by-step regression and the functions were fitted.
      Using BP neural network to predict the length of garment marking
      ZHANG Heng;ZHANG Xin;HE Xingshi
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  109-113. 
      Abstract ( 1125 )   PDF (953KB) ( 408 )   Save
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      Regarding the defects of a posteriori and experience-depended of traditional method, the research proposed use BP neural network to predict the length of garment marking. In the course of achievement, it starts from the order information analysis directly and picks out which factors are concerning with marking length instead of the process of pattern making & marking, and uses these factors as input parameters to establish a BP artificial neural network model for predicting marking length. The experiments show that the model has good prediction. If provide the actual value of factory production to the BP model in practice,the prediction will be more close to the reality,and may be the construction for factory to estimate the fabric consumption and design optimized cutting plan.
      Comparison of Chinese and Western women’s underwear’s style
      SHEN Lei;WANG Shaomei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  114-117. 
      Abstract ( 1399 )   PDF (1018KB) ( 447 )   Save
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      Having carried out researches on the famous brands of women’s underwear on the big supermarkets both at home and abroad, the difference between Chinese and Western women’s underwear style is studied, from a viewpoint of cultural background, in terms of design, color, face fabric and decoration and so on. And it is asserted that there exist differences not only in design modeling, structure, color shade and tone, but also in lining ingredient, composition, functionality, the decoration type and method, and design pattern. These differences are mainly ascribed to the difference between Chinese and Western culture.
      机械与器材
      Optimizing design of shogging motion of the guide bar on high speed warp knitting machine
      XIA Fenglin;GE Mingqiao;JIANG Gaoming
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  118-121. 
      Abstract ( 1392 )   PDF (1101KB) ( 460 )   Save
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      The goal of this research is to improve shogging motion characteristic of the guide bar and reduce the impaction of shogging. The combined sine acceleration movement rule is chosen as the shogging motion curve of guide bar under the motion theory of machines and mechanisms by analyzing the motion characteristics of shogging movement of guide bar, and it is found that four factors influencing the shogging movement, that is, needle gauge, number of shogging needle space, the main shaft speed of warp knitting machine, and allowed shogging period,that is to say, to extend the shogging time under the condition of ensuring the safety and reliability of shogging movement with making the starting time earlier and postponing the ending time, the shogging movement performance can obviously be improved.
      Application of iteration function system’s fractal patterns in computerized hosiery machine
      YU Shiming;ZHANG Rui;QIU Hong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  122-125. 
      Abstract ( 1144 )   PDF (1043KB) ( 459 )   Save
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      Focusing on the some key issues encountered in sock pattern design and data storage, this job mainly presents some CAD methods based on the iteration function system and computer graphics and their software implementation though Visual C++. This related algorithms are successfully integrated into the developed jacquard software. The designed patterns can be converted to the control signal data by the coded function of the developed software and downloaded into the controller of a computerized hosiery machine by its USB communication interface. The controller may control a hosiery machine to weave corresponding patterns according to the control signal data. This work is valuable to enhancing the CAD level of sock pattern design and productivity of a computerized hosiery machine.
      管理与信息化
      Improved fast fabric appearance simulation algorithm
      ZHANG Ruilin;WANG Wenzheng;GUO Weijie
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  126-129. 
      Abstract ( 1032 )   PDF (1118KB) ( 534 )   Save
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      In order to improve the efficiency of fabric appearance simulation algorithm, an improved fast algorithm of fabric appearance simulation was put forward. We improved the yarn model, and established a buckling illumination model based on fabric floats by using polygon depth-buffer algorithm of computer graphics, in combination with the reflective trait of yarn and the effects of fabric floats. Finally, utilizing image technology, the simulated fabric has a stronger true sense. The results of experiment show that the algorithm which uses methods of 2-D images reaches the purpose of 3-D simulation, greatly reduces operational complexity and enhances efficiency.
      Apparel marketability accessment
      ZHANG Gefu;XU Qi
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  130-136. 
      Abstract ( 1246 )   PDF (1107KB) ( 500 )   Save
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      In order to response quickly to market demand and implement the response strategy with a kind of mathematical analysis tools to the apparel supply-chain management, suggestions are made as to how to characterize the apparel marketability through a system of numerical values, which will forms a complete set of theory for assess apparel maketability. Firstly, apparel character index (ACI), composed of primitive index and fashion index, describes clothes basic characters as structure and fashion. ACI is created by evaluating apparel characters which influence on future apparel marketability on different stages. Secondly, the popularity index (PI), computed from mapping ACI features to the marketability, is used to describe the product marketability. And with PI, market satisfaction, trend and life cycle are measured.
      综合述评
      Advance in research on entire stationary flat card
      SUN Pengzi;CAO Jipeng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  137-141. 
      Abstract ( 1213 )   PDF (1072KB) ( 526 )   Save
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      This paper reviewed the history of research and development of entire stationary flat card for several decades, analyzed the limit of further increasing production of current revolving flat high production card, pointed out the advantages and shortcomings of traditional entire stationary flat card and suggest that when developing the new entire stationary flat card, further enhancing carding intensity and cleaning ability should be regarded as the main research direction of the next step. The card having new high-efficiency web cleaner and high performance stationary flat carding system redesigned may be the development direction for further increasing output.
      Current status of studies on female breast shape beauty
      SUN Chao;ZHENG Rong;LI Jian
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(05):  142-146. 
      Abstract ( 1239 )   PDF (1058KB) ( 490 )   Save
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      The current research status on the features of breast both at home and abroad are introduced in respect of breast proportion and location, breast area jugement and measure and classification of breast shapes, with emphasis on evaluation of breast shape beauty comprehensively by using objective method such as 3-D body scanning and subject method. The present study is mainly depended on the extract and analysis of body measurement, lack of object description and analysis of the breast curve, roundness, and their variations, more lack of combining the subjective evaluation with objective measurement. Future research will focus on investigating the index influencing the breast shape beauty and developing a regression equation for the evaluation.