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Table of Content

    15 June 2009, Volume 30 Issue 06
    • 纤维材料
      Phase change behavior of two components polyethylene glycol system
      XIE Huifang;RUAN Ruping;YU Weidong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  1-5. 
      Abstract ( 1197 )   PDF (334KB) ( 403 )   Save
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      PEG as phase change materials, which is close to body temperature in the use of temperature range, and which is the basis of textile material. Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) was used to test and analyze the different molecular weight PEG and two components PEG system, in order to measure their phase change behavior and characteristics and investigate the influence of the different mass ratio PEG1000/ PEG2000 system on the phase change behavior. The result showed that molecular weight and proportion of PEG had effect on phase change energy and temperature change, and the PEG1000/ PEG 2000 system was more suitable as an energy storage material for temperature auto-control textile; also the molecular weight of PEG had effect on two components PEG system, there was bimodal phenomenon in the heating direction; phase change behavior was accurately changed by adjusting proportion of two components system.
      Structure and properties of electrospun polylactide/silk fibroin-gelatin tubular scaffold
      WANG Shudong;ZHANG Youzhu;WANG Hongwei;YIN Guibo;DONG Zhihui;FU Weiguo;SHI Debing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  6-9. 
      Abstract ( 1282 )   PDF (572KB) ( 490 )   Save
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      To develop a small-diameter tissue engineering blood vessel, the biocompatible and biodegradable PLA, silk fibroin and gelatin were used as materials, polylactide/silk fibroin-gelatin composite tubular scaffold with 4.5 mm diameter was fabricated via electrospinning, which was performed on a high speed rotating mandrel. The composite tubular scaffold was composed of a PLA fibrous outside layer and a silk fibroin-gelatin fibrous inside layer. The morphology of the scaffold was observed by SEM; Porosity and biomechanical properties of the scaffold were characterized, HUVECs were cultured on the scaffold. The results indicate that PLA/silk fibroin-gelatin composite tubular scaffold shows a high breaking tenacity and preferable pliability, the burst strength of the scaffold is higher than normal blood pressure in human body; The scaffold has a lacunaris structure, SEM shows HUVECs could grow and proliferate on the scaffold.
      Influences of treatment conditions on properties of UHMWPE fibers
      ZHU Xuzhao;IONG Jie;XU Shuyan;SONG Yeping;HUO Pengfei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  10-14. 
      Abstract ( 1405 )   PDF (530KB) ( 366 )   Save
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      The influences of heat, wet, and plasma treatments on mechanical properties of UHMWPE fibers under normal environmental conditions were studied, and the rules and mechanism of the influences were preliminarily discussed. The results show that the tensile strength of UHMWPE fibers decreases considerable after heat treatment, while breaking elongation increases slightly with rising temperature of heat treatment. The duration of wet treatment has no prominent influence on the mechanical properties of the fibers and the tensile strength decreases with rising temperature of wet treatment. Plasma treatment results in some pickling on the surface of the fibers and their tensile strength and breaking elongation decrease.
      Key properties of super absorbent fiber
      DING Zhirong;XIN Sanfa;LI Zhihong;WANG Shanyuan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  15-18. 
      Abstract ( 1372 )   PDF (529KB) ( 403 )   Save
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      This paper studied the key properties of super absorbent fiber(SAF)such as linear density. Breading strength and elongation rate, modality of surface, water absorbent ratio, etc. The experimental results show that SAF has excellent water absorbability, it can absorb water more than 120 times of the fiber′s weight (>120 g/g) and the swelled fiber still keeps fiber-gel state after absorption,so it′s fit to develop the liquid absorbent materials. But SAF has circle shape of cross section and smooth surface and on crimp, its breaking strength (<0.8 cN/dtex) and elongation rate (<5.5%) are not only low but high variance. These means the mechanical properties of SAF are poor, it′s very difficult to develop products by way of using pure SAF. It′s need to blend with other fibers to develop the liquid absorbent materials of using SAF.
      Properties of casein grafted acrylonitrile fibers with different casein feed ratioos
      REN Hailong;YU Jianyong;G AO Jing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  19-23. 
      Abstract ( 970 )   PDF (616KB) ( 366 )   Save
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      Four kinds of casein grafted acrylonitrile fibers with different casein feed ratioes were studied. Through analyzing and comparing the morphological structure, chemical composition, component content, the basic mechanical properties, and the frictional, hygroscopic and dyeing properties, the influence of different casein content on the performance of grafted fibers were investigated. The results showed that the grafted casein fiber is a mixture of three different things, which includes Casein-g-AN, PAN and casein. With the increase of casein content, the strength of the fiber is enhanced in some degree, and the properties of hygroscopicity and dyeing are enhanced significantly. But the formability was weakened with exorbitant casein content, lowering the fiber quality. Finally, some constructive suggestions for exploiting and making use of this kind of casein grafted acrylonitrile fibers are put forward.
      纺织工程
      Characterization and analysis of three-dimensional flow field in compact spinning with lattice apron
      ZOU Zhuanyong;WANG Yan;YU Jianyong;ZHU Yunde;WU Jianming;CHENG Longdi
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  24-28. 
      Abstract ( 1093 )   PDF (728KB) ( 390 )   Save
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      A computational fluid dynamic model was established and was computerized with parallel technologies & standard κ-ε turbulent model for simulating and characterizing the flow field in convergence zone of compact spinning with lattice apron. Flowing states of airflow in convergence zone were characterized such as the distribution rules of static pressure and velocity, and their effect on fiber bundle in inlet curved surface of suction slot were analyzed. The results show that the converging airflow is generated by negative pressure effects in compact spinning with lattice apron; the negative pressure effects in inlet curved surface of suction slot sunken the lattice apron into special pipe; effect of component velocities (X axial velocity, Y axial velocity and Z axial velocity) on fiber bundle is different; additional twists are generated mainly in near S1 part of the suction slot.
      Analysis of woollen cashmere yarn evenness
      XU Xianlin;LI Peiling;ZHANG Zhi;ZHU Hong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  29-33. 
      Abstract ( 1340 )   PDF (637KB) ( 359 )   Save
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      To improve the yarn evenness, fifty batches of woollen cashmere yarns with the linear density of 38.5 tex were involved. Softwares concerned such as ORIGIN 7.0 were adopted to carry out the correlation analysis. The model of yarn evenness is built. Relashionship between single yarn evenness and roving evenness was investigated,and relashionship between yarn evenness and parameters like thin place,thick place and neps was also investigated. It is possible to indicate that there is a positive correlation between single yarn evenness and roving evenness, meanwhile thin place is the most important factor as far as the evenness of woollen cashmere yarn is concerned. Minor influence of the amount of neps on the yarn evenness is noticed, while the influence of thick place can be neglected. The results provide theoretical basis for improving the yarn evenness.
      Conductive and antistatic property of yarns blended with organic conductive staple fibers
      FU Guangwei;WANG Rui;NI Yuting
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  34-38. 
      Abstract ( 1188 )   PDF (696KB) ( 442 )   Save
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      This study intends to evaluate the influence of the organic conductive staple fiber on the antistatic property of the fabric. Cotton and polyester respectively are blended with different propotions of organic conductive staple fibers by various spinning methods. The conductive property of the fabrics woven with these blended yarns was tested. The results show that with the same content of organic conductive staple fibers, the ring spun yarn is better than the rotor spun yarn with respect of the conductive property. Small percentage of the conductive fiber,around 4%,is enough for the antistatic property requirement, the specific area resistance of the fabric is reduced to in the range of 107~109Ω/cm2.Higher content of conductive fibers is meaningless, not only increasing the cost but also affecting the servicebility of the fabric. Small percentage of staple conductive fibers has little influence on yarns’ strength and breaking elongation.
      Exploration for testing shape memory effects of PTT fabrics
      QIN Li;ZHAO Lihuan;WANG Fumei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  39-43. 
      Abstract ( 1263 )   PDF (682KB) ( 367 )   Save
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      For developing ideal testing methods and expression of related indexes for shape memory effects of PTT “shape memory” fabrics, six kinds of representative fabrics with similar textile structure were chosen,and subjective and objective evaluation methods for radian plasticity and objective evaluation methods for force stimulating recovery were designed. The experimental results suggested that there was a good correlation between subjective and objective evaluation methods for radian plasticity, thus proving that objective evaluation methods for radian plasticity is valuable and practical. Objective evaluation methods for force stimulating recovery has taken into consideration the impact of temperature, so that a good simulation of the recovery after being touch by hand is achieved. It is proven that the test method is both objective and convenient.
      Men’s leisure fabric design and shape style physical evaluation
      NI Bingxuan;JIAO Xiaoning
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  44-48. 
      Abstract ( 1155 )   PDF (718KB) ( 504 )   Save
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      With bamboo fiber, cotton and polyester fiber as raw material, the experiment has developed a men’s leisure fabric by varying the vertical stripe weave, coupled with proper looming technics and finishing. The physical performances of the fabric were measured, and the dynamic and static state draping surface style was tested by draping style apparatus. In addition, through the fabric’s dynamic and static state draping surface projections and the tested data of draping property, eight physical eigenvalues of draping surface style were figured out. Finally, according to main factor arithmetic, the orthogonal polynomial of eight physical eigenvalues and five main factors were utilized to calculate the scoring of the five main factors. The draped surface factor value is 31.0157, it is the largest value of the five factors. It shows that this style characteristic is the most obvious one in the fabric. The result indicates that the fabric’s draped surface sculpt is smooth, and it is fit of men’s leisure fabric.
      Fabrication and characterization of flax fiber reinforced polylactic acid composite
      ZHANG Wenna;LI Yabin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  49-53. 
      Abstract ( 1062 )   PDF (730KB) ( 501 )   Save
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      Since changing the angle of layer of performs will have an effect on the mechanical property of the composite, flax fiber was used as the reinforcing material in preparing the prefabricated material with polylactic acid fiber which had been subjected to opening, blending and carding. Then the prefabricated material was shaped into flax/PLA fiber composites by moulding pressing technology. The effects of changing the different angle of layer of performs on the tensile and flexural strength of composite were studied, and the fracture mechanisms and fraction morphology of the composite were discussed by using scanning electron microscopy .The results show that the angle of layer of the composite at 90° has the best horizontal orientation tensile, blending strength and module; at o° has the best vertical orientation tensile, bending strength and module.
      Design method related to 2.5-D preform structural parameters
      YANG Caiyun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  54-57. 
      Abstract ( 1025 )   PDF (750KB) ( 645 )   Save
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      Being lack of related theory up to now, the designers of 3-D preform are confronted with difficulty when calculating the structural parameters of 2.5-D preform. For this reason, this paper defined the concept of the similar 2.5-D preforms, and worked out the equations of structural parameters’s inner relationships of similar 2.5-D preforms by keeping their fiber volume fractions fixed. By means of the equations, new preform structural parameters could be calculated based on original preform structural parameters, and especially preform thickness could be predicted truly. The equations developed by the paper was verified by three experimental examples. The results show that the 2.5-D preform structural parameters equations possess practicability.
      Precracked tearing properties of PVC/ biaxial warp knitted fabric under multiaxial loads
      LUO Yixi
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  58-61. 
      Abstract ( 967 )   PDF (785KB) ( 333 )   Save
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      In order to gain some insight the precracked tearing behavior of biaxial warp knitted fabric coated with PVC under multiaxial tensile loads, the influences of the shape and size of sample, the precracked length and direction under multiaxial loads are observed and analysed. The results show that the fabric has rather isotropic behavior while the sample is round. Better loads bearing ability is exhibited at the deflection direction even without reinforcing yarns at that direction. It has also found that the precracked tearing strength decreases with increase of the initial crack length, and that the effect of the initial crack orientation depends on its position relative to the tensile direction.
      染整与化学品
      Effects of quaternary ammonium cationic modification on starch phosphate sizing agents
      XU Dongsheng;ZHU Zhifeng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  62-65. 
      Abstract ( 1157 )   PDF (782KB) ( 412 )   Save
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      In order to improve the serviceability of starch phosphate, a series of starch phosphate with different amount of quaternary ammonium groups were prepared by varying the feed ratio of N-(3-chloro-2-hydroxyproply) trimethylammonium to starch phosphate. The influence of cationic modification on ζ-potential, paste viscosity, adhesion to cotton fibers, and film behaviors were evaluated by control tests. The experiment results demonstrated that ζ-potential and viscosity of the modified starch paste increases as the degree of substitution (DS) of cationic groups increases. The modification further improves the adhesion of starch phosphate to cotton fibers. With the increase of the degree of substitution, the adhesion enhances and the elongation-at-break of starch film increases.
      Degumming of lotus fiber and its property
      ZHANG Hongwei;LI Yonglan;LI Nan; WANG Mingfang; YUAN Hongping
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  66-71. 
      Abstract ( 1518 )   PDF (917KB) ( 502 )   Save
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      Take the edible lotus leaf and stalk as raw material, lotus fiber was produced by degumming methods such as river retting and sodium hydroxide boiling. The components and properties of the fiber, such as moisture regain, density, linear density, strength and break elongation, were tested. Infrared spectroscopy (IR), X-ray diffractometer (XRD), scanning electron microscope (SEM) were use to characterize the components and structure of lotus fiber. The results show that the components of obtained lotus fiber are similar to those of jute, and belong to natural cellulose fiber. The optimized sodium hydroxide boiling technology for the fiber: NaOH concentration is 10 g/L, boiling at 100℃ for 3 hours. The produced lotus fiber, with diameter 317μm, linear density 55.8dtex, strength 1.76cN/dtex, strength variation coefficient 40.2% and break elongation 7.84%, is spinnability. However, the fiber’s linear density and strength should be improved further.
      Chemical degumming of okra fibers
      LIU Xinhua;XU Zhanqi;LI Changlong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  72-75. 
      Abstract ( 1220 )   PDF (914KB) ( 370 )   Save
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      In order to make full use of agricultural biotic resources and enrich natural vegetable fibers for textile industry, chemical degumming of okra fibers was explored in both theoretical and practical aspects. The chemical components of okra fiber were determined by chemical analysis. The chemical degumming of okra was studied through adopting two boiling and boiling –bleaching methods in the experiment. The additives, such as JFC, Na2SiO3 and urea, have been successively added in the progress of alkali boiling. Then the effect of additives on the removal of gelatin was analyzed. The longitudinal structures of the okra fibers before and after degumming were examined by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), and their tensile strength was tested. The result showed that the main chemical components of okra fibers are as follows: 50.8% cellulose, 20.21% hemi-cellulose and 16.66% xylogen. Boiling-bleaching is an effective degumming method for okra fibers, and the property of the okra fibers degummed by this method is similar to that of the degummed jute technical fiber.
      Effect of short time and high temperature treatment on shade of naturally colored cotton
      HU Wei;LIU Yunchang;LI Maosong;ZHOU Wenlong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  76-79. 
      Abstract ( 1109 )   PDF (823KB) ( 383 )   Save
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      The effect of short time and high temperature (HTSP) treatment(150-180℃,2min)on the shade of naturally colored cotton was examined for getting a better understanding of the impact of high temperature curing on the shade of the fiber. The results showed that no matter the brown or green cotton (naturally colored), short time high temperature treatment results in significant change of its shade, but the green is less obvious than the brown, which indicates that the coloring matter of the former has better stability in HTSP condition. The acidic or alkali conditions will make the shade change caused by HTSP condition even more serious, and alkali condition has greater impact. The experimental results reveal that the shade change caused by high temperature is dominated by structural change of coloring matter, which can’t be recovered by acidic or alkali conditions.
      Investigation on uptake of UV-absorber onto polyester fabric and its UV absorption properties
      CHEN Weiguo;DAI Jinjin;WANG Zhiyong;MENG Zhaocheng;CUI Zhihua
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  80-85. 
      Abstract ( 1135 )   PDF (897KB) ( 429 )   Save
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      In order to investigate the improvement of the UV absorption properties of polyester fabrics with UV-absorbers, 5 UV absorbers with the structure of benzotriazole were dispersed and then applied onto polyester fabrics in high pressure dyeing method. The uptake of the UV-absorbers on polyester fabric and the transmittance of UV radiation through fabrics were measured. The results showed the UV absorbers selected could be taken up onto polyester fabrics by exhaustion dyeing at 130℃ for 40—60min. The uptakes of UV absorbers onto polyester fabrics were influenced by the structure, molecular weight of the UV absorbers, dyeing temperature and amount of UV absorbers applied as well. The UV absorbers with suitable molecular weight more aromatic groups and greater ratio of hydrophobic group in molecule could have greater uptakes. The UV absorbers with greater uptakes could improve the UV absorption properties more significantly. The UV absorber which had lower uptake but with double chelation ring of hydrogen bond within the molecule could also improve the UV absorption ability obviously.
      Antistatic finishing of polyester and nylon fabrics
      HANG Weiming;ZHU Yawei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  86-89. 
      Abstract ( 2235 )   PDF (845KB) ( 636 )   Save
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      In order to improve the antistatic properties of synthetic fabrics, antistatic agent TF-480 was selected to finish the dyed polyester and nylon fabrics respectively. The influences of the antistatic agent dosage, baking temperature, time, and crosslinking agent and its amount on the performance of the finished fabrics was discussed. The process conditions were optimized. The antistatic properties of synthetic fabrics were examined by measuring the peak value of the static voltage and its half life, and the durability of the antistatic property of the fabrics after 20 washing cycles was tested. The color change of the fabrics before and after finishing and washing was observed by measuring their K/S values. The results indicated that better antistatic finish effect is got under the following conditions: TF-480 dosage 30~40g/L, baking temperature 170~180℃, baking time 30~40 s. In particular, the polyester fabric retains good antistatic property after being washed many times, and its color exhibits little change. It is found that addition of crosslinking agent in the finishing faciliates improving the antistatic property of nylon fabric.
      Synthesis of polyether silicone and its application in defoamer
      AN Qiufeng;GUO Kun;LI Ge;LI Hao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  90-94. 
      Abstract ( 1504 )   PDF (878KB) ( 737 )   Save
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      A defoamer of polyether silicone was prepared for reducing the bad foam in technological process. In the presence of Pt catalyst, methyl end-group hydrogen silicone (PHMS) reacted with propylene-polyether ether to form a polyether silicone (PESO). Chemical structures of PESO and their performance were characterized. The effects of PESO with different structures on the defoaming ability were investigated. Experiment results showed that end-group polyethylene siloxane is characterized by better water-solubility, speedy defoaming, and long-term inhibitation of foam. Though the foam inhibiting ability improves obviously with increasing the molecular weight of PESO, its appearance and storage stability are influenced.
      Calculating upper control limits for exposure point concentration of formaldehyde content in textiles by non-parametric method
      JI Lei;BAI Hua;LIN Yufei;ZHOU Xin;JIAO Lizhen;WANG Chao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  95-98. 
      Abstract ( 945 )   PDF (895KB) ( 302 )   Save
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      To break through the limitation of sample amount in calculating the upper control limits for exposure point concentration of formaldehyde content in textiles by parametric method, a non-parametric method, Bootstrap resampling method was introduced to simulate the sampling process based on the testing data of formaldehyde of textile samples collected randomly in domestic market to generate a mass of simulation dataset. Upper control limit for exposure point concentration of formaldehyde (95%UCL) was calculated based on this bootstrap resampling dataset and got a result of 52.73mg/kg by this method. This method can be used in wide range, even in the conditions of non-normality of data distribution and limitation of sample amounts.

      服装工程
      Influence of seamless underwear on static pressure comfort of men’s under body
      JIN Zimin;LUO Xiaoju;SHEN Jiajia;YAN Yuxiu;TAO Jianwei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  99-103. 
      Abstract ( 1244 )   PDF (958KB) ( 412 )   Save
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      With an ordinary style of twelve men’s seamless underwear as the target of study, of which made with same style and material but different cylinder diameters, structures and knitting methods. The pressure and pressure comfort sense of different positions of a young man of M body size wearing underwear under static condition were tested. The objective and subjective evaluation methods, fuzzy mathematics, and box control graph were used to describe the pressure distribution of seamless underwear and summarize the relationship between pressure and comfort. The results show that in abdomen, leg and waist, the pressure is inversely proportional to the subjective evaluation, and proportional relation appears in side, hip and thigh. This may be attributed to the fact that different parts of the body have different pressure withstanding ability. It points out that the pressure on thigh, leg and waist should be decreased when designing men’s seamless underwear.
      Influencing factors of drape raised quantity of bubble sleeve
      LIN Bin;LI Zhe
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  104-106. 
      Abstract ( 1558 )   PDF (1010KB) ( 444 )   Save
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      Influence of fabric properties and garments structural parameters on the modeling of bubble sleeve was discussed. Five kinds of fabrics with different properties were used in the experiment;their physical properties such as thickness, drape, areal density and stiffness were measured. In structure design, bubble sleeve pattern was drawn by adding different amount at the sleeve cap of prototype sleeve. Taking the drape raised quantity of sleeve cap into main consideration, after analyzing related measurement data, it was concluded: when slashing amount of sleeve cap is small and medium, the thickness and areal density of the fabric have the most influence on drape raised quantity of bubble sleeve. When slashing amount of sleeve cap is relatively large, the more the drape, the less the drape raised quantity. When the fabric properties are constant, drape raised quantity increases with the increase of slashing amount of sleeve cap.
      Inheritance and innovation of traditional culture of men’s wear from China’s central plain area
      HUANG Zhigao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  107-112. 
      Abstract ( 1087 )   PDF (1076KB) ( 403 )   Save
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      For the purpose of inheriting the local traditional culture and vigorously developing the national industry, the traditional culture of men’s wear from the China’s central plain area was researched by using such methods as investigation, referring documents, and verifying through practice. Its concept category, idea and dressing character were introduced, and its essence for inheritance and innovation was discussed in combination of the current status and trend of the consumption of modern men’s wear. For upgrading the men’s wear sector. Three measures for innovation for the industry have been put forward,focusing on its esscence other than its form,emphasizing its color other than its structure,and inheriting its technique but breaking up its convention.
      机械与器材
      Development of testing system of warp tension based on optical fiber force sensor
      GAO Xiaoding;WANG Xu;DAI Baoling
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  113-117. 
      Abstract ( 996 )   PDF (1034KB) ( 348 )   Save
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      Due to the defects associated with the warp tension testing system, this paper designs a new testing system of warp tension based on optical fiber force sensor, which contains a force sensor based on F-P optical fiber strain, elastic structure and photoelectric conversion system. APC circuit was used in the light source circuit of the optical fiber force sensor;The APC circuit was made up by two operational amplifiers, transistor and periphery circuit, which adopts backward photorefractive feedback offset control. The calibration test of static state characteristic for optical fiber force sensor indicates that the sensor has high precision. The experiment of test warp tension with the optical fiber force sensor testing system on YC426 jet weaving machine was carried out, and satisfactory results were obtained.
      Winding tension and velocity coordinated system with torque servo control mode
      CHEN Dechuan;CHENG Zhilin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  118-121. 
      Abstract ( 1119 )   PDF (1028KB) ( 519 )   Save
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      To solve the tension and velocity coordinated control problem in the narrow fabric winding process, this paper presents a tension and velocity coordinated control system which takes pull-out motor as host motor (working at velocity mode ) and winding motor as affiliation motor (working at torque mode and its maximum velocity is restricted by host motor). It introduces the principle of this coordinated system, analyses the AC torque servo system and the control method of automatic/semi-automatic winding tension intelligent controller. Furthermore, a technical approach for the tension and velocity coordinated controller using MCU and FPGA is presented. The application result shows that this affiliation system can work at both tension loop control mode and tension sensorless semi-automatic tension control mode which is diameter adaptive, and the system has fast response and good coordination performance.
      Design of flash fire generation system in the Pyroman
      JIANG Yi;CHEN Qiang;SHEN Yuhong;MEI Anhua
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  122-125. 
      Abstract ( 1051 )   PDF (1006KB) ( 365 )   Save
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      This paper discussed the design of combustion system, control system and safety system in flash fire generated system of the Pyroman. Based on the fire environment and fire damage in battle field, the heat flux of the flash fire is determined to be 67~ 84 kW/m2 in 4 s. Based of the formula for calculating the heat value of propane burning, it is computed that the distance between burner and Pyroman is 0.75 ~1m and the pressure of burner is 34 ~207 kPa. Depending on the relationship between the pressure and volume, a buffer tank with the volume of 345 L and working pressure of 300 kPa is designed, equipped with stable gas supply line with gas pressure fluctuation within 5%. The embedded control system is adopted to provide integrated graphical man-machine interface, all operational conditions are visual directly. Monitoring and safety systems are mounted and safe operation is ensured.
      管理与信息化
      Development of computer monitoring system of spinning frame based on C/S mode
      SHAO Jingfeng;QIN Lanshuang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  126-130. 
      Abstract ( 1034 )   PDF (1029KB) ( 429 )   Save
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      According to the actual requirements of production management and information technology for spinning workshop, a computer monitoring system of spinning frame which is based on C/S mode is designed by LAN. System hierarchy structure, logical structure and safety of database, main management functions of software are designed by using the technology of multi-thread, serial communication, database and FCS, and some key technologies during the system design are introduced. The system performance proves that system is running stably, data is collected accurately, needs of production management in workshop are satisfied, networking management of spinning workshop is realized, and information technology development of textile enterprise is promoted.
      Popularity-index forecasting model for supporting apparel supply-chain quick response
      ZHANG Gefu;XU Qi
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  131-137. 
      Abstract ( 1063 )   PDF (1143KB) ( 1458 )   Save
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      In order to forecast the popular state of new products in apparel market, this paper built a new kind of forecasting multiply model based on time series. Through describing the market state of any new apparel products, this paper defines three representation variables, such as acceptance ratio, trend and life cycle. Many factors such as apparel itself, market environment and customer themselves’ characters are comprehensively considered when evaluate those characters which influence market demand. All sub-functions are discussed, including day-mean index, people flow cycle features, the functions such as price influence, trend and demand on seasonal products. And, through a calculation example and computer simulation, this model is verified and the meaning of forecasting is interpreted.
      综合述评
      Effects of structure design on comfort of protective clothing
      ZHANG Xianghui;WANG Yunyi;LI Jun;ZHANG Wenbin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(06):  138-144. 
      Abstract ( 1121 )   PDF (1105KB) ( 613 )   Save
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      Structure design is one of important factors that determines the comfort of protective clothing(PPC). By reviewing the research situation on PPC structure design both home and abroad and combining with research results, the paper investigated the influence of the garment structure design on clothing comfort from four aspects, that is, the interspaced air gaps,ventilation features,alternative construction designs,and construction design optimization of protective clothing system. The evaluation methods of PPC comfort were concluded. And the concept of concurrent engineering is proposed for applying to the development of protective clothing structure design.