Table of Content

15 February 2009, Volume 30 Issue 02

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纤维材料

Properties of copolyacrylonitrile prepared with different monomers

HU Xuemin;XIAO Changfa;JIA Guangxia;DIAO Caihong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  1-4. 

Abstract ( 1244 )   PDF (488KB) ( 388 )   Save

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The structures and properties of two types of copolyacrylonitrile prepared with different second monomers which are methyl acrylate and vinyl acetate were tested by FT-IR, DSC, TG and DMA techniques. The dyeabilities were also studied. The DSC results show that the glass transition temperature of copolyacrylonitrile whose second monomers prepared with vinyl acetate (I) is lower than that of copolyacrylonitrile with methyl acrylate as the second monomers (II). TG tests show that the decomposition temperatures of the two are very much alike，which are over 300℃ and their thermal stabilities exhibit little difference. The dyeing behavior of I is better than II under the same conditions.

Study on spinning technics of cellulose carbamate Fibers

Halidan Mamat;Wumanjiang Ali

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  5-8. 

Abstract ( 1362 )   PDF (411KB) ( 365 )   Save

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Through study the effects of the ratio of cellulose carbamate to sodium hydroxide in cellulose carbamate solution，pre-spinning managing time and temperature, composition and temperature of spinning coagulation bath and regenerating bath on the spinnability of cellulose carbamate solution and the properties of the produced fibers, the optimum wet-spinning process conditions for cellulose carbamate fibers was obtained : the mass fraction of cellulose carbamate is about 7% and the mass ratio of cellulose carbamate and sodium hydroxide is about 1 , and then the cellulose carbamate in sodium hydroxide solution’s pre-spinning managing time is 10-12 h and it’s pre-spinning managing temperature is below 15℃ , the solution has good spinnability. After feeding this solution into the coagulation bath containing H₂SO₄（150g/L）、Na₂SO₄（200g/L）、Al₂(SO₄)₃（50g/L）when the bath-temperature is 40℃, the regenerated cellulose fibers of some tenacity and elongation can be prepared when the mass fracton of sodium hydroxide is 1% and bath-temperature is 85℃.

Rheological behavior of EVOH

WANG Rui;LI Shufeng;HUANG Junpeng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  9-12. 

Abstract ( 1205 )   PDF (465KB) ( 375 )   Save

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A series of studies on the rheological behavior of EVOH melt were carried on, so as to provide the optimal spinning parameters to prepare the PET/EVOH sheath-core fiber. The experimental results showed that EVOH belongs to the pseudo plasticity liquid, the non-Newton exponent is less than 1 and the apparent viscosity decreases with the increasing of the temperature or the shear rate. The non-Newton exponent of EVOH is 0.712 when extrusion spinning is carried out at the temperature of 240℃, which is closer to the Newton liquid as compared with spinning at the temperature of 250℃ and 260℃. The activation energy of EVOH is between 400 and 500 J/mol when spinning performed at 240,250 and 260℃., which increases with the increasing of the shear rate.

Observation and statistic analysis of the surface structure of honeycomb micropore fiber

ZHANG Hongxia;CHEN Xueshan;LIU Furong;ZHU Chenyan;XIE Jianqiang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  13-17. 

Abstract ( 1225 )   PDF (670KB) ( 438 )   Save

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In order to study the surface structure and the characteristic of the honeycomb micropore fiber，several groups of the fiber cleaned with sodium hydroxide lye with various concentration were selected as the observation samples. The surface and cross section of the fiber were observed with scan electron microscope. SEM photos with different magnifications were obtained. The results showed that the best cleaning concentration for the honeycomb micropore fiber is 1.5%NaOH .Observation and analysis of the fiber surface through SEM photos showed that there existed many linear concaves on the surface of most fibers observed. Meanwhile, elliptical concaves were also seen on the surface of some fibers. The geometric dimensions of the concaves were measured with graph processing software, and the distributions of the concave size were obtained with the statistical software. Characteristic parameters of the concaves on the surface of the fibers were put forwarded.

Effect of aminating treatment on surface performance of CF and its composites

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  18-23.  Abstract ( 1118 )   PDF (622KB) ( 505 )   Save Related Articles | Metrics Carbon fibers (CFs) coated with polyethylene polyamine were treated at 600℃ for 30s in the furnace, then washed using water and dried. The surface function groups, surface roughness and the wetting properties of CFs before and after aminating treatment were investigated respectively by FT-IR, atomic force microscopy (AFM) and contact angle measurement. It was found that the amino groups (CO-NH2) were introduced to the surface of the amination treated CFs and slight heaves on the surface were also decreased. The contact angles of CFs with epoxy resin and water were decreased by 22% and 32% respectively. The interlaminar shear strength (ILSS) of CF-reinforced resin composites (CFRP) which employed treated CFs and untreated ones were both evaluated by three-point-bending approach. Heat treatment makes the ILSS of CFRP increase by 6.65%, while aminating treatment makes the ILSS of CFRP increase by 24%. The results of mechanical analysis showed that the aminating treatment has little effect on the strength of CFs. Effect of solvent on the morphology of VGCF/SMPU composites HAN Chunshao;FU Yaqin;NI Qingqing JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  24-28.  Abstract ( 1673 )   PDF (677KB) ( 404 )   Save Related Articles | Metrics Taking vapor grown carbon fiber(VGCF) as a conductive filler, and shape memory polyurethane(SMPU) as matrix, while using NMP、DMF、THF as solvent, respectively, VGCF/SMPU composites were prepared via solution mixing method. The effect of different solvents on the dispersion of VGCF and the composites’ morphology were studied by UV/visible spectrum, SEM and optical microscope. The results show that different types of solvents have obvious influences on the dispersion of VGCF and the morphology of the composites, and NMP is the best solvent for preparing VGCF/SMPU composites. Microstructure and properties of Ag coated PET nonwovens prepared by magnetron sputtering WANG Hongbo;GAO Weidong;HE Yanli;LI Jing;GU Luying JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  29-33.  Abstract ( 1217 )   PDF (671KB) ( 473 )   Save Related Articles | Metrics A series of silver coated PET nonwovens was prepared by magnetron sputtering at room-temperature, the corresponding thickness of silver film were 25, 50, 75 and 100nm, respectively. X-ray diffraction measurements were carried out to examine the morphology of the silver films, it was found that the silver films form polycrystalline, crystal structure forms face-centered cubic; the mean size of Ag particles enlarges with increasing of film thickness; the spectrum and electric properties were also measured, the results indicated that there exists critical value of silver films thickness. Below the critical thickness, the reflectivity increases sharply while transmission rate decreases with the increasing of film thickness; but the change of reflectivity and transmission rate tend to a stable value when the film thickness reached at the critical value. The four- point probe test shows that the conductivity increases evidently with film thickness increasing via measurement of conductivity. 纺织工程 Correlation between Micronaire value and spinning quality of cotton fiber ZHAI Yali;ZHAO Chunsheng;KONG Fanrong JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  34-37.  Abstract ( 1530 )   PDF (829KB) ( 423 )   Save Related Articles | Metrics To explore the relationship between Micronaire value and spinning quality of cotton fiber, the paper analyzed series indexes obtained though single bale spinning with different Micronaire values which could affect the yarn quality. The conclusion is that the correlation between Micronaire value and the strength of yarn, hairiness index with a protruding length of 2 mm and end breakage is non-linear; the correlation between Micronaire value and yarn evenness is significant positive; and the correlation between Micronaire value and number of nep is significant negative. So Micronaire value must be allocated rationally according to the use of yarn to ensure the quality of yarn during the course of spinning. Design of warp-knitted shaping pants fabric based on physiological characteristics of the human body HU Haigong;JIANG Gaoming;MIAO Xugong JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  38-41.  Abstract ( 1194 )   PDF (738KB) ( 387 )   Save Related Articles | Metrics In order to reduce the numbers of seam，the article comes up a design idea of female′s shaping pants fabric which has different pressure areas with the physiological characteristics of the human body. Firstly, it begins with the theory of elasticity forming and physiological characteristics of the human body, analysing the basic method of forming different elastic area and the distribution and character of four center belts of tat in human body. Secondly, it integrates the basic theory of the designing of the underwear paper sample, and depends on the special characteristic of the RSJ5/1 EL warp-knitted machine. Then gives example of this fabric′s one cycle of pattern and knitting process which has three different pressure areas, the heavy pressure area, moderate pressure area and light pressure area, Finally. it gives the pictures of jacquare design of the different areas. Fabric structure and finished size prediction for seamless knitted garments ZHOU Sumeng;JIAO Qingbao;WANG Fumei;DAI Zhiqiang JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  42-47.  Abstract ( 1427 )   PDF (857KB) ( 554 )   Save Related Articles | Metrics In the design of seamless knitted garments, experiential methods are usually adopted, it is both time consuming and tedious. On the basis of testing the fabric structure parameters and finished size of seamless knitted garments, this paper investigated the influence of some important factors including fibre sort, surface density and fabric texture on seamless knitted fabric structure and finished size at first. It was found that on normal manufacture conditions, finished products’ fabric structures are decided by the materials sorts and surface density. The fabric structure and machine gauge determine the garment size. Then the quantificational relationship between finished garment size and these factors such as materials sorts, surface density, fabric structure, machine gauge was studied. Finally, a new prediction method for seamless knitted fabric structure and finished size was established. Using this new method, knitted fabric structure parameters and seamless garment’s size can be predicted by material sort, surface density, machine gauge and fabric texture. 基于BP神经网络的织物斜向弯曲性能的预测 NI Hong;PAN Yonggui JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  48-51.  Abstract ( 1378 )   PDF (786KB) ( 482 )   Save Related Articles | Metrics At present, the accuracy is very low in the prediction of fabric diagonal bending rigidity with mathematic model. Several pieces of fabric are selected and their bending rigidity in every 10 degrees from the weft-wise to warp-wise is tested, and prediction of diagonal bending of the fabrics are carried out by BP neural network based on gradient algorithm. And verification and comparison are performed. Experimental results demonstrate that the proposed system can efficiently predict fabric diagonal bending rigidity with better accuracy and offers a new evaluation method for prediction of fabric diagonal bending rigidity. Effect of glass fabric structural parameters on its acoustic insulation property YAO Yuefei;GAO Lei;YANG Qiongli;YU Laiming;LUO Yongbo;FU Yaqin;LIU Guanfeng JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  52-55.  Abstract ( 1204 )   PDF (778KB) ( 525 )   Save Related Articles | Metrics In order to study the acoustic insulation property of glass fabric, three different types of glass fiber plain weave fabrics EW100, EW200 and EW300 with different fabric densities, linear densities, layer numbers were collected for the tests and analyses. The acoustic insulation properties of these fabrics were measured and compared by the reverberation room-slience room method. The effect of material parameters such as fabric square density, thickness, air-permeability, filament number, etc on the acoustic insulation properties was analysed. The results showed: with the increase of fabric square density，thickness, filament number and the reduction of air-permeability, its acoustic insulation performance increases. The acoustic insulation property of glass fiber fabric in high frequencies is superior to that in middle-low frequencies, and the acoustic insulation property of glass fiber fabric is not only related with the fabric surface density, but also with its air-permeability. When the air-permeability is good, the sound reduction index of glass fabric has a certain plus capability toward the square density, while the air-permeability is poor, the contribution of the sound reduction index generated by sound wave absorption of its material interior is much greater than that of surface density. Effect of fabric structures on the flame retardant property of Anti-fcell® fabrics ZHENG Zhenrong;GU Zhenya;YANG Eenfang;WANG Lejun JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  56-60.  Abstract ( 1183 )   PDF (837KB) ( 419 )   Save Related Articles | Metrics To improve the flame retardant property of Anti-fcell® flame retardant fabric, the effects of yarn linear density, twist, structure, warp density, and surface density etc on Anti-fcell® fabrics’ flame retardant (FR) property were investigated using Limiting Oxygen Index (LOI) test. The results showed that the FR property of the double-layer fabrics were better than that of the monolayer fabrics. The LOI value of these double-layer fabrics were all above 31.0%. Higher the density, yarn linear density and twist of the double-layer fabric, better its FR property. In addition, the FR properties of Anti-fcell®/FR-PET and Anti-fcell®/wool mixed nonwoven fabric were investigated. It was found that the LOI value of Anti-fcell®/FR-PET mixed nonwoven fabric was higher than 26% when Anti-fcell® fiber contained more than 60%. And the LOI of Anti-fcell®/wool mixed nonwoven fabric was higher than 26.5% when Anti-fcell® fiber contained more than 25%. 染整与化学品 Synthesis of triethylamine-based epoxychloropropyl triethylammonium chloride GUO Naini;YANG Jiangzhou;YANG Lianli JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  61-64.  Abstract ( 1394 )   PDF (826KB) ( 463 )   Save Related Articles | Metrics When preparing quaternary ammonium salt type active etherifying agent- epoxychloropropyl triethylammonium chloride with epichlorohydrin and trimethylamine, its synthesizing process is difficult to control, for trimethylamine is a kind of gas. For this reason, this paper investigates synthesizing quaternary ammonium salt type cationic etherifying agent- epoxychloropropyl triethylammonium chloride with liquid triethylamine substituting for gaseous trimethylamine. The effect of synthesizing conditions on the product yield is analyzed and the optimal process conditions are determined. The element content, epoxy value, melting point, and water solubility of the product are tested, and it is found that the product yield is up to 94.53%, epoxy value is 90.36％, and melting point is 138～140℃. It is considered that the quality of the product is good.The use of liquid triethylamine makes the reaction process easy to control, thus meeting the requirement commercial product by lot. Improvement on the properties of slenderized wool fibers by alkaline protease treatment DONG Li;ZHANG Jianfei;XU Lei JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  65-69.  Abstract ( 1242 )   PDF (856KB) ( 392 )   Save Related Articles | Metrics In order to improve the smoothness of slendrized wool fibres to the extent of approaching the cashmere fiber , the alkaline protease (Savinase) was used in the treatment of slenderized wool top to remove the raised part of scales generated from wool slendering. The amount of protease used and the treating time were varied in the process. Based on the observation of wool morphology and the testing of the weight loss, frictional coefficient and the tensile properties, the feasibility of removing the raised scales with protease was verified. The results showed that the best effect is obtained with 1.6%(o.w.f) protease when treating for 40 min. Preparation of ammonium molybdate modified bentonite and its adsorptive capability to basic blue dye SHAO Hong;LI Jialin;CHENG Hui JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  70-73.  Abstract ( 1374 )   PDF (893KB) ( 533 )   Save Related Articles | Metrics In an attempt to finding a way to treat the dye-house wastewater more efficiently, a new type water treating agent ammonium molybdate modified bentonite was prepared with Ca-bentonite as raw material and ammonium molybdate as modifier and was used to treat the wastewater resulting from dyeing with basic blue dye. The optimal preparation conditions were derermined through experiments: turbidity ratio is 1：15，mass fraction of ammonium molybdate solution is 0.2%, the soaking and heating time are 5min and 10min respectively. Because dispersed state of bentonite in the water was changed by ammonium molybdate，its adsorptive capability and ionic exchange ability were improved, and its color removal rate from the wastewater of basic blue dye was 96.53%. On this basis, the adsorption isothermal line of the modified bentonite was set，which belonged to L-model，and the bentonite’s adsorption of the basic blue dye is coordinated surface adsorption. Mechanism of heat transfer printing of cotton fabric WANG Hongfeng;CHEN Lingling JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  74-78.  Abstract ( 1450 )   PDF (925KB) ( 504 )   Save Related Articles | Metrics In order to realize the heat transfer printing of cotton fabric, the idea of “bridge-linking” was put forward and a bridge-linking agent named FY-1 was prepared. The feasibility of bridge theory was proved by the example: heat transfer printing was performed on the cotton fabric which had been pretreated by FY-1, with C.I. disperse red 60. The bridge mechanism was analyzed by using physical methods such as optical microscope, transmission electron microscope. It seems there are three steps in heat transfer printing of cotton fabric: the bridge-linking agent enters into the fiber by the affinity and penetrating power, distributing dye-sites for disperse dye in the micropore; the bridge-linking agent can swell fiber at heat transfer printing temperature with the help of its thermo-swellability; disperse dyes sublimate at heat transfer printing temperature and dye on fiber through the force between molecules. Application of Pd-TiO2 photocatalytic material on cotton fabric XU Yinglian;HUANG Longquan;ZHENG Dongwei JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  79-83.  Abstract ( 1091 )   PDF (936KB) ( 360 )   Save Related Articles | Metrics To improve the photocatalytic performance of TiO2 on the surface of cotton fabric, the photocatalytically functioned decorative fabric was prepared by coating the substrate with palladiun (Pd) modified nano TiO2 using HAP protective agent. The surface deposition and efficiency of the catalytic degradation of formaldehyde of the finish on the treated fabric were examined by SEM, gas chromatography and other methods. The results indicated that the photocatalytic efficiency of the cotton fabric with Pd modified TiO2 was increased by 49% as compared with the cotton fabric without Pd modified TiO2, and it also had a very good UV protective effect. HAP faciliated the adhesion of photocatalytic agent on the surface of cotton fabric. Improving photostability of high performance aramid fabric by sol-gel treatment LIU Xiaoyan;YU Weidong JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  84-88.  Abstract ( 1049 )   PDF (977KB) ( 410 )   Save Related Articles | Metrics Although high performance fibers possess higher thermal resistant properties, they show poor photostability. In this paper, a new method of sol-gel treatment was used to enhance the light-resistant properties of high performance aramid fabric. The size and distribution of TiO2 hydrosol was very uniform by using Zetasizer Nanosizer. The fabric treated with TiO2 hydrosol was characterized by U-4100 UV-visible-near infrared spectrometer and compared with its counterpart, the results showed that the light property (transmission, absorbance and reflection) of fabric treated with TiO2 hydrosol was improved. Its SEM micrographs showed the continued film on the surface of the treated fabric, which has good blocking effect to the ultraviolet ray. 服装工程 Analyses of the structure of body blouse with different chest heights LU Xin;GU Yunfen JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  89-94.  Abstract ( 1381 )   PDF (993KB) ( 481 )   Save Related Articles | Metrics The silhouette of the chest is critical to the appearance of the women’s dress. The structure processing technology and parameter design will directly influence dress coinciding with the figure and global balance. To take the 165/84A figure model as research object and eliminate the fabric’s influence on the structure, the body blouse is made by increasing the chest height by 1 , 2 and 3 cm respectively. To get the pattern of the structure with draping, the variation of displacement of different process points of the body blouse pattern in different chest heights is observed and the change rule is summarized by the analysis method of plane pictures stacking. The result shows that the chest measurement increment and the dispersion of the upper and lower chest measurement will increase by equidifferent with chest height increasing by 1cm, the variable is all provided by the front bodice, the breast convex amount, shoulder dart and waist dart will increase correspondingly, and the measurement size of the back bodice don’t change. The pattern of body blouse in this study will serve as a foundation for structure design in making other body blouses. Space form discrimination of clothing ZHUANG Lixin;WAN Gmingfang JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  95-99.  Abstract ( 1105 )   PDF (1073KB) ( 454 )   Save Related Articles | Metrics Beginning from the analysis of the constitutional elements of clothing space form and comparison of the western and Chinese garment in terms of clothing space, the related questions of the clothing form in the spatial relations is elaborated, including the clothing’s shapes and types, essential factors, both interior and exterior. This paper verifies that the different understanding ways of the clothing space form and the different esthetic ideas of the clothing cause the modelling differences with respect to the same primary clothing . Regardless of the oriental plane formation or the western three-dimensional formation, the clothing forms in different times, different regions and different cultures are created by different spatial formation ways. Discriminating the clothing space shape and its formation way provides a realistic way for enriching creative thoughts for the innovative design of modern clothing. Applicability function of folk clothing accessories CUI Rongrong;DAO Weidong JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  100-103.  Abstract ( 1122 )   PDF (1051KB) ( 397 )   Save Related Articles | Metrics Generally speaking, folk clothing accessories consist of Meile (female’s ornament to band hair), coronet, powder puff, Yunjian (shawl), Dudou (traditional underwear), gloves, sleeves, pouch, wallet, puttees, socks, shoes, shoe-pad, etc. Each of them has its specific and basic “applicative functions” for human beings. Starting from basic applicative function, this article analyzes their protective functions, and further analyzes rationality and applicability of folk clothing accessories from aspects of technology, structure and decoration, verifies these have both basic applicative function to satisfy people’s substance requirements and comfortable function to ensure people’s physiological requirements, and forms synthetic performance of suitable for use. 机械与器材 Computation of flow patterns inside interlacer jet based on ANSYS CFX QIU Hua;MOUJunling;XU Ranxia;GE Mingqiao;YUAN Zhibo JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  104-108.  Abstract ( 1650 )   PDF (1046KB) ( 417 )   Save Related Articles | Metrics For efficiently designing high performance interlacer jet which was used for filaments interlacing, this paper simulated compressible airflow inside yarn duct with commercial CFD software ANSYS CFX and then compared the results with the former experimental results. It can be seen that the simulated results has good agreement with the experimental ones except for few points. Furthermore, the distributions of airflow velocity on cross-section of yarn duct show that symmetric eddy help to produce tangling parts; the distributions of airflow velocity on lengthwise-section show that tangling parts are difficult to be produced in higher yarn tension and the radial direction velocity in the vicinity of yarn duct center decides the opening of filaments. Development of a servo feeder based on PCI bus XU Qiao;MEI Shunqi;ZHANG Zhiming JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  109-111.  Abstract ( 1097 )   PDF (1042KB) ( 328 )   Save Related Articles | Metrics For overcoming the shortcomings of the feeder of the twisting machine, a new type servo feeder based on PCI local bus is developed, in which AC servo motor and PCI-1240 motion controller are adopted. A suitable model is established through the motion analysis of the feeder, the Visual Basic program language and PCI-1240 motion DLL are used to realize modularized design in the software system. The parameters are calculated and converted into control signals by the main program, which drive AC serve motors and executes mechanisms to realize to-and-fro feeder motion, avoiding overlap, convex edge, hard-edge and so on. The experimental results show that the design of the servo feeder can achieve the process goal of yarn guiding, and it is suitable for the latest double, triple and quadruple twisting machines. Application of temperature and humidity independent controlled air-conditioning technology in spinning department LI Xinyu;CHEN Jie;JIN Xing;XU Jie JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  112-116.  Abstract ( 1734 )   PDF (1098KB) ( 407 )   Save Related Articles | Metrics To study and solve the problem of great amount of energy consumed in the spinning department, the temperature and humidity independent controlled air-conditioning systems (THICACS) is introduced, including sensible heat and latent heat processing system, the principle of temperature and humidity independent controlled air-conditioning with displacement ventilation technology (THICAWDVT), and the operating principle of liquid air-conditioning systems with displacement ventilation. Aiming at the present problems of air-conditioning in the spinning department, the way of the technology applied to the air conditioning in the spinning department is discussed. Take the air-conditioning applied to the spinning department for example, the enthalpy-humidity chart of the air conditioning process and energy cost are analyzed and compared for the air-conditioning before and after using THICAWDVT. It indicates that the application of THICAWDVT can meet the production process requirements, and save about 68% cooling load. Air-jet loom control system based on CAN bus JIN Yuzhen;WU Zhenyu;WU Chuanyu;HAN Tao;HU Xudong;ZHU Zuchao JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  117-120.  Abstract ( 1219 )   PDF (1073KB) ( 388 )   Save Related Articles | Metrics A control system based on CAN bus was designed to meet the real-time，reliable performance requirement of the high speed air-jet weaving machine．Modularization design idea is adopted．The control system consists of the main controller module, the electronic let-off/take-up module, human-machine interface module and a number of sensor components. Chips having CAN communication interface become cores of these modules．It makes the functional module be a CAN node in the CAN network．And the modules exchange data by CAN network．The result of the control system running indicated that it could meet the high speed requirement, and realize fast, reliable control, and easy maintainability． Design of the cylinder spiral spring of the new model thread- take-up mechanism in computerized embroidery machines LIN Jianlong;WANG Xiaobei;ZHANG Li JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  121-121124.  Abstract ( 1459 )   PDF (1059KB) ( 453 )   Save Related Articles | Metrics The needle bar and the thread-taking-up mechanism are the main mechanism to form the thread trace of the embroidery in computerized embroidery machines, exerting great impact on the forming of high quality thread trace of the embroidery. This paper deals with the study of the cylinder spiral spring of the periphery cam with flat-bottomed pusher style thread-taking-up mechanism in computerized embroidery machines, it deduces the theoretic design equation while maintaining the movement regularity of the original thread-taking-up mechanism and gets the mechanics parameter as well as the geometric dimensions of the cylinder spiral spring. The cylinder spiral spring is assembled to the new model thread-taking-up mechanism in computerized embroidery machines, and the experiment is finished on computerized embroidery machines, it proves that the cylinder spiral spring of the new model thread-taking-up mechanism in computerized embroidery machines can satisfy the requirement of the thread-taking-up performance. 管理与信息化 3-D simulation and dynamic realization of warp-knitted structure ZHANG Lizhe;JIANG Gaoming;GAO Weidong JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  125-129.  Abstract ( 1182 )   PDF (1142KB) ( 624 )   Save Related Articles | Metrics In order to predict the structure characteristics and appearance effect of warp-knitted fabrics, O Goktepe’s 3-D solid yarn model is improved based on the study of normal warp-knitted loops, thus the 3-D dimensions of the loop can be obtained; with the principles of non-uniform rational B-spline (NURBS) curves and curved surfaces, the 3-D loop models of stitches and inlay of warp knitted structures are built; then with these 3-D loop models and according to the chain notations of warp-knitted structures, various kinds of loops can be connected freely; finally, with the tools of Visual C++ and OpenGL, 3-D simulation of single-bar and two-bar warp knitted fabrics is successfully realized by introducing the factors of fabric light and material quality into 3-D structural model. Design of synthetical evaluation index system for apparel suppliers YAN Yuxiu;JI xiaofen;HU Jueliang;ZHANG Dimeng;CAI Liling JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2009, 30(02):  130-134.  Abstract ( 1286 )   PDF (1090KB) ( 605 )   Save Related Articles | Metrics Based on the actuality of garment supplier management and evaluation, the paper investigates the index selection, weight distribution and system construction for evaluation of apparel suppliers. First, requirements and criteria for evaluation are discussed, and based on the existing research results and opinions of experts, an evaluation index system has been proposed, which composed of 7 first-grade indices and 34 second-grade indices. Then, surveys using questionnaires were conducted among managerial employees of fourteen garment enterprises and related experts, the feasibility of 25 indexes has been verified by reliability analysis using SPSS13.0. Finally, a general index system suitable to clothing enterprises has been advanced. 京ICP备14006648号 Copyright 2021 © Editorial office of Journal of Textile Research Supported by Beijing Magtech Co.Ltd HU Peixian;WEN Yufang;YANG Yonggang;LU Lang