Table of Content

15 May 2008, Volume 29 Issue 5

Previous Issue    Next Issue

纤维材料

Characterization of native cellulose using solid-state ¹³C-CP/MAS NMR spectroscopy

HE Jianxin;WANG Shanyuan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  1-5. 

Abstract ( 1366 )   PDF (412KB) ( 635 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

everal common native cellulose,ramie,flax,cotton,as well as bamboo pulp and hardwood pulp were investigated using13C-CP/MAS NMR spectroscopy and X-ray diffraction,and the differences between two methods were discussed.NMR spectra of these fibers were analyzed in detail and some structure parameters such as crystallinity,lateral microfibril size,and allomorphs content were determined.Crystallinity and crystalline size calculated by NMR method are less than these obtained by X-ray diffraction.The reason is that the intensity of crystalline signal depends on the number of carbon atoms presented within crystallite in13C NMR spectra.

Preparation and characterization of polypropylene hollow fiber membranes modified by cysteine

LIU Yanjun;YANG Jia;Lu Chunying;FU Xueqi

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  6-10. 

Abstract ( 1194 )   PDF (602KB) ( 347 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

The poly(glycidyl methacrylate) grafted membrane(PP-g-GMA) were prepared by UV-photo-irradiation.Then,the active epoxy group of PP-g-GMA reacted with cysteine in alkaline solution to prepare the amphoteric membrane(PP-g-Cys).The grafted chains on membranes improved the hydrophilicity of membrane surface but blocked the membrane pores as shown by SEM photos.The improved hydrophilicity and the blocked of membrane pores cause the trend that the pure water flux increases with the rise of grafting degree and then decreases at high grafting degree.The isoelectric point(IEP) of 7.6% and 16.1% PP-g-Cys are at pH 7.2 and 6.5 respectively.

Study on characterization of the shape factor of the cross-hollow fiber

ZHANG Shunhua;YANG Xiuqin;YANG Fengchun

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  11-14. 

Abstract ( 1227 )   PDF (580KB) ( 503 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

The cross-section shape of the cross-hollow fiber was screened and tested by using computer in combination with the polarized light microscope image acquisition and analysis system,and the characterization method of the shape factor was studied.The shape factor of the fiber,such as shape factor in radius,shape factor in cross section,branch factor and volume content,was tested and compared.The cross-section shape of cross-hollow fiber was compared with that of the hollow fiber.The novel method of equivalent diameter or average diameter was brought forward to characterize the characteristic shape coefficient of the fiber.The results of the study indicated that the adopted method is rapid,simple,accurate and convenient and has practical value.

Process optimization of alkali treatment of PTT fibers

BAI Xiu′e;GUAN Xinhai

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  15-18. 

Abstract ( 1023 )   PDF (637KB) ( 461 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

The article studied the effect of alkali treatment conditions on the weight reduction,structure and morphology of PTT fibers,and the optimal process conditions were determined by orthogonal design analysis.The results showed that many pits are distributed on the surface of the fibers.The mechanical property has decreased a little,but the wettability and dyeability have improved.When the weight less is 15.97%,their dyeability obviously increases.When the concentration of promoter(1631) is 0.003 mol/L,the optimal process conditions for alkaline treatment of PTT fibers are as follows: the concentration of sodium hydroxide solution,0.875 mol/L;treating at 90℃for 60 minutes.

纺织工程

Evaluating the strength of the vortex twist acting on the yarn in air jet vortex spinning

ZOU Zhuanyong;YU Jianyong;XUE Wenliang;CHENG Longdi

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  19-21. 

Abstract ( 1205 )   PDF (780KB) ( 493 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

The strength of the vortex twist acting on the air jet vortex yarn was investigated by analytical model based on simulating the flow field inside the nozzle.The result shows that the strength of the vortex twist acting on the air jet vortex yarn is regarded as a function of the number of jet orifices,jet orifice angle,diameter of the jet orifice,inner diameter of the nozzle,outer diameter of the hollow spindle,velocity at the entrance of the jet orifice(namely nozzle pressure),distance between the entrance of the hollow spindle and the entrance of the nozzle,the projecting height of open-trail-end fibers twined over the top exterior of the hollow spindle and yarn diameter.Increasing the velocity at exit of the jet orifice increases the strength twisted by the whirled airflow.The strength twisted by the whirled airflow increases with decreasing the inlet diameter of the nozzle block and becomes weaker with increasing the distance from the inlet of the nozzle block to the inlet of the hollow spindle.The strength twisted by the whirled airflow enhances with increasing the outer diameter of the hollow spindle.The numerical results show the effectiveness of analytical model.

Subjective and objective assessment of fabric softness

WANG Ya;GAO Weidong;LU Yuzheng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  22-25. 

Abstract ( 1023 )   PDF (712KB) ( 476 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

At present,fabric softness assessment still needs to improve.In this paper,both subjective and objective assessment of fabric softness was discussed.The subjective assessment adopts rank method.The objective assessment adopts KES-F to test bending,shear and compression indexes of fabric and choose 7 mechanical indexes as evaluation indexes.The main indexes were found by main factor analysis and the comprehensive evaluation value was calculated and the softness of fabrics was ranked.The results indicate that the objective assessment is consistent with the subjective assessment and is more credible.

Applied technique of automatic measurement of warp and weft densities in fabrics:1.method of measurement

XIE Liqing;YU Weidong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  26-30. 

Abstract ( 1167 )   PDF (911KB) ( 650 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

When using the single image processing technique in detecting structure parameters of such fabrics as high density,skew or deformed,pile fabric and uneven structured,we are confronted with problems of measurement difficulty and low precision.Thus,this paper presents a new method developed for automatic measurement of yarn densities in fabrics.The method takes the advantage of a novel techique which combines the stretching & correcting in mechamcs,clarification,and image processing to measure yarn densities in fabrics quickly.The research verifies that the algorithm based on yarn densities image detection using combined technique is achieved easily,general applicable in image identification of fabric structure,so it can be used as an applied and standardized method.

Effects of fabric weave and cover factor on moisture transfer ability of moisture absorbent and fast drying fabric

ZHANG Hongxia;LIU Furong;WANG Jing;ZHU Chengyan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  31-33. 

Abstract ( 1380 )   PDF (845KB) ( 746 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

For developing moisture absorbent and fast drying fabrics demanded on the market,two series of fabrics with different densities and weave structures were manufactured by home-made low stretch moisture absorbent and fast drying tangling polyester yarns,and the moisture absorbent and transfer abilities were tested with wicking effect and water diffusion test.Factors affecting their moisture absorbance and transfer performance were discussed.The results show that there are close relations between the moisture transfer ability and weave structure of fabrics,density of the warp and weft,and the interlacing frequency of warp and weft yarns in the weave repeat.And the fabric structures with too high or too low weft densities,too high or too low interlacing frequencies of warp and weft yarns such as the plain and 16-harness satin weaves are unbeneficial to the improvement of the moisture transfer ability.Within the research scope of this paper,the moisture absorbent and transfer abilities are better for fabrics with the warp density 64 ends/cm,the weft density 40 picks/cm,5-harness satin or 4-end twill weave.

Design and making of varied weaves of computerized flat knitted fabric

LI Xiaoying;SHEN Lei

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  34-38. 

Abstract ( 1318 )   PDF (978KB) ( 551 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

Weave design is the foundation for woolen sweater making.Studies on the weave design for flat knitting machine are beneficial to opening-up the innovative thinking of a designer.In the view of designing varied weaves,the surface effect of the woolen sweater could be classified into the embossed,filet opening and racked,and the principle of forming these effects was discussed along with individual fabric style.Design examples for adapting fashion trends were presented as well as making process.Related factors influencing weave design were investigated in terms of weave characteristics,yarns,color and pattern.

Test and analysis of the bubbling aperture of woven filter cloth

MAO Chengdong;ZHANG Mingguang;GUO Xin

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  39-41. 

Abstract ( 1434 )   PDF (792KB) ( 542 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to explore the pore of woven filter cloth and its distribution and provide a basis for the design and selection of the woven filter cloth,this paper discusses the aperture problem of filter cloth.It uses bubbling aperture to express the pore of filter cloth and its distribution and analyzes the relationship between the bubbling aperture of filter cloth and the fabric structure by testing.The results indicate that the bubbling aperture of filter cloth decreases along with the fabric density increasing,increasing yarn twist enlarges the bubbling aperture of filter cloth,and the effect of fabric texture on the bubbling aperture of filter cloth is that the aperture of the plain weave is the smallest and the twill weave is the biggest.The smaller the aperture of filter cloth,the better the uniformity of filter cloth aperture.

Compressibility of plain-woven fabrics in composite

GUO Qiwei;WU Xiaoqing

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  42-45. 

Abstract ( 1109 )   PDF (958KB) ( 467 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

Targeting at the problem of compressing of fabric resulting from closing of the mold in RTM,the changes in thickness and fiber volume fraction of plain-woven fabrics when compressed were studied along with compressing parameters and a series of cross-section images of composites at various degrees of compressing were captured under a microscope with a CCD camera.It was found that the wet or dry state of the fabric and compressing times have significant influence on its compressibility.The initial fabric bulk compressibility reduces with increasing compressing times while relaxation takes place after removing the load.In addition,the voids between the fiber and resin-rich areas decrease with increasing compressing load as observed from the microstructure image in which the yarn waveform and cross-section have deformed under compression.

Analysis of knitting technologies of warp knitted glass fiber fabrics

QIN Zhigang;LONG Hairu;MA Xiaohong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  46-50. 

Abstract ( 1234 )   PDF (982KB) ( 994 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In view of the phenomena that the glass fibre yarns break and damage easily due to brittleness of the yarns during knitting process,the warp knitting performances of glass fibre yarns are analyzed by experiments.Some precautions during warping processes are discussed.Several single bar and double bar fabrics are knitted on a Raschel latch needle warp knitting machine.The knitting technology of warp knitted glass fabrics is studied.The experimental results revealed that the larger the curvature and the wrap angle of glass fibre yarns bended at the hook of needle and the pinhole of guide bar needle,the easier the rupture of the yarns.The technological parameter adjustment is important during warping processes.In course of the stitch formation,the collapse of yarns occurs largely at the moment of landing.The needles hook with narrower width is preferred.In the precondition of stitch formation ensured smoothly,the tension of warping yarns ought to be decreased.The fabric surface is fuzzed when the fabric of high density is knitted.

Finite element analysis of mechanical properties of the tubular textile composites

ZHANG Shujie;WANG Rui;XU Lei;WANG Huan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  51-54. 

Abstract ( 1259 )   PDF (1081KB) ( 581 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

The tubular textile composites as the liner is inversed in the pipeline by gas or water pressure so that the damaged pipeline can be rehabilitated.During inversion,because the diameter of the tubular textile material is less than that of the pipeline,or the pipeline is distorted,so the annulus displacement of the tubular textile composites due to pressure is necessary,then the tubular textile composites can cling tight to the pipeline wall.The paper analyzed the stress and strain of the tubular textile composites during inversion through the finite element analysis,through the stress and strain simulated by computer,whether the strain meets the requirement of the engineering can be judged.So when the geometry and material parameters are certain,the scope of diameter of pipeline that the tubular textile composites can repair is confined.And through tensile test under a certain load,the result of the finite element analysis is verified,and the test result shows that the data of the test are consistent with that of the finite element analysis.

Ultrasonic on-line testing of the thickness of 3-D braided preforms

GUO Yunfei;LI Jialu

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  55-58. 

Abstract ( 1090 )   PDF (969KB) ( 340 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

The thickness of 3-D preform with closure cross-section shape braided using carbon fibers was determined synchronously using ultrasonic pulse-echo method.The transmitting principle of ultrasonic in 3-D braided preform was analyzed.The testing system and pressure mechanism consisted of computer,stepping motor,gear,leading screw and probes.It is concluded that ultrasonic attenuated seriously in 3-D braided preform because of its inner incline fiber tow structure.But with coupling water,the proper pressure value and the frequency of the probe can make the preform transmit ultrasonic wave,thus the thickness information can be obtained accordingly.The thickness value tends to be stably with the increase of pressure.However,the frequency of the probe has no notable effect on result data.

染整与化学品

Optimization of scouring of knitted cotton fabrics with a new-type alkaline pectinase

WU Hui;QIAN Guodi;HUA Zhaozhe;YAN Hejing;ZHANG Chaohui;DU Guocheng;CHEN Jian

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  59-63. 

Abstract ( 1009 )   PDF (1012KB) ( 497 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to solve the application problems of alkaline pectinase fromBacillussp.WSHB04-02 for scouring knitted cotton fabric,the conditions such as pH,temperature,enzyme concentrations and treatment time in bioscouring of knitted cotton fabrics with this pectinase were investigated and optimized in this work by use of″change-one-factor-at-a-time″method.The results were obtained as follows: pH=7.0;temperature,60℃;pectinase activity concentration 960 U/L;treatment time,40 min.Furthermore,comparisons were made with same kind of products from overseas as well as with the traditional alkaline scouring process in terms of the pectin removal rate,capillary effect and fabric weight loss.It was found that the new type enzyme has such advantages as neutrality,thermally stable,low cost and environmentally benign.

Anti-bacterial performance of complexes of sulfur calix[4]arene with silver on fabrics

LI Lei;ZHENG Limin;XIAN Chunying

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  64-66. 

Abstract ( 1008 )   PDF (1145KB) ( 418 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

For improving the stability of the Ag-type inorganic antimicrobial materials,new complexes of calix[4] arene with silver were prepared,in which silver complex ions were used for substitution for silver ions.The product was used as antimicrobial agent for finishing textiles.Since modified derivatives of calixarene as receptors can form complex compounds with silver ions,the products have good antimicrobial activities against E.coli ATCC25922,pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC27853,staphylococcus aureus ATCC29213 and Candidaalbicans ATCC10231.The cotton fabrics treated with these products still remain excellent antimicrobial abilities against E.coli ATCC25922,staphylococcus aureus ATCC29213 and Candidaalbicans ATCC10231 after 10 laundering cycles.

Adsorption of syntan on nylon and silk fabrics

WU Minghua;LIN Heming

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  67-71. 

Abstract ( 1039 )   PDF (1070KB) ( 413 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

The adsorption behavior of syntan on nylon and silk fabrics are studied.The results show that syntan adsorption on the two fibers is expressed by dual adsorption mechanism in accordance with Langmuir and Nernst type adsorption and endothermic effect.Since silk has high content of amino groups,where nylon contains abundant methylene groups,the contribution of Langmuir adsorption on silk fabric is greater than that on nylon fabric in respect of the total sum of syntan adsorption.When compared with nylon fabric,syntan adsorption on silk fabric is more sensitive to pH.The stronger temperature dependence of syntan adsorption on nylon is due to its poor swelling and smaller inside voids.

Research on the antistatic performance of bisquaternary ammonium salt for polyester fabric

GONG Lifang;NI Renjie;HUANG Yu;YAO Cheng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  72-74. 

Abstract ( 997 )   PDF (1147KB) ( 406 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

The antistatic capability of bisquaternary ammonium salt with special structure on the polyester fabric was studied with a view to improving the antistatic capability of the polyester fabric.The induction static voltage of polyester fabric added with bisquaternary ammonium salt was determined on the induction static instrument.The effects of its structure,concentrations,baking temperature and time on antistatic capability for polyester fabric were discussed.The results show that the N,N-′bis(dimethyl octadecyl)-3-oxa-1,5-penta diammonium bromide(type six) used as antistatic agent for polyester fabric has better antistatic effect under such conditions as the concentration of 1.5 g/L,baking at 110℃for 150 s.

Innovations brought about by new digital ink jet printing in design of garment patterns

ZHANG Chunming;FANG Kuanjun;GONG Lihua;ZHAO Zhenyu;WU Han

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  75-79. 

Abstract ( 1056 )   PDF (1226KB) ( 527 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to investigate the influence of new digital ink jet printing technology on the feature and pattern design of ready-made garment printing,this paper analyzes the technological characteristics,printing process of new digital ink jet printing on ready-made garment along with the effect and aesthetic feeling of the printed products.It is found that new digital ink jet printing has broken the limit of traditional expression form of pattern design and integrated the advanced technology with modern aesthetic taste and pattern design concept.It expounds the innovations brought about by new digital ink jet printing in pattern design of garment from two aspects—theoretical study and effect evaluation.

Determination of perflurooctane sulfonates and pentadecafluorooctanoic acid residues in textiles goods by LC-MS-MS method

YU Huaiping;LU Lijun;ZHANG Daihui;MU Jun;ZHOU Xiao;LI Aijun;HAN Dachuan;RONG Hui

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  80-83. 

Abstract ( 1623 )   PDF (1144KB) ( 593 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

The perflurooctane sulfonates(PFOS) and pentadecafluorooctanoic acid(PFOA) in textiles are extracted with touluene and methanol by Accelarated Solvent Extractor(ASE).The extracted liquid was concentrated,purified film filtered,volume specified,and then it was determined by LC-MS-MS.The determination method for PFOS and PFOA in textiles by LC-MS-MS is developed.The detection limit,linear range,and recovery rate of this method,for PFOS,are 1.0μg/kg、3.0-300μg/kg and 82.35%-105.60% respectively;and for PFOA,are 0.5μg/kg、1.5-200μg/kg and 85.17%-107.78% respectively.

服装工程

Flame-retardant performance and TPP value of fabrics for fire-fighting suits

LI Hongyan;ZHANG Weiyuan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  84-88. 

Abstract ( 1375 )   PDF (1153KB) ( 632 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

The integrated thermal protective performance of the multi-fabric system used for fire-fighting suits is researched in this article.Multi-fabric systems were composed by simulating the fire-fighting suits with fabrics including Nomex,Kermel,PSA,PTFE,TPU and three-dimensional spacing flame-retardant fabric.Outer fabric′s flame-retardant performance is tested by vertical flammability test,the integrated thermal protective performance of the multi-fabric systems is tested by TPP test.The experiments reveal that the best thermal protective performance fabric system consists of PSA,three-dimensional spacing flame-retardant fabric and flame-retardant cotton fabric,which TPP value is 51.9;the most appropriate fabric system for the fire-fighting suit consists of NomexⅢA fabric,three-dimensional spacing flame-retardant fabric and flame-retardant cotton fabric,which TPP value is 50.7;three-dimensional spacing flame-retardant fabric can be used in fire-fighting suit structure and will achieve better overall protective effect and reduce firemen′s thermal load.

Influence of the fabric thermoplasticity on modeling method of Chinese gown

LIU Jianping;ZHANG Yi;LI Yinglin

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  89-93. 

Abstract ( 946 )   PDF (1204KB) ( 418 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

To maintain integrity of the pattern and meet the needs of fitness,the influence of the fabric heat setting on model method of Chinese gown was analyzed.First of all,it was designed that the structure and the blocking process of fitness of no-dart Chinese gown according to the structure of human body and the influencing factors of synthetic fiber heating setting and blocking performance of fabrics were discussed.Then the fabric content,identifies individual material and plans for the test were analyzed,the blocking performance of the fabric was tested and the test data was analyzed through mathematic method to find out the relationship among different factors and the best combination parameters.Finally,no-dart Chinese gown will be produced on trial basis by adopting the best combination parameters.The study shows that by taking advantages of thermoplasticity of synthetic fabrics and combing with the features of the human body and garment structure,it is possible to design blocking first and then cutting model for making fit and no-dart Chinese gown.

Bias cut of dress models and its application examples

DING Xiqiang;LIU Guowei

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  94-97. 

Abstract ( 947 )   PDF (1200KB) ( 698 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

Applying 45°bias cut to shift the three statistics of original models of plane cut dresses,the bias cut dress models can be established.First,the waistline is shifted,including the shift of hip and waist discrepancy as well as the shift of placket hold.Their sizes must be kept equal to those before the shift.Second,the hip length is shifted so that the hip length of the bias cut is equal or close to that of the original models and on the same level.Third,the skirt line is shifted so that the skirt line of the bias cut is close to that of the original models on the same level.To make an accurate shift of the waistline,the hip length and the skirt line is the key research content of bias cut dress models.By analyzing the examples of applied two-piece bias cut dresses,most variations of designs of the bias cut dresses are reflected in the pieces of bias material and the skirt line molding choices.

An efficient method for automatic measurement of garment dimensions

DONG Jianming;HU Jueliang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  98-101. 

Abstract ( 1299 )   PDF (1234KB) ( 472 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

An efficient method for automatic measurement of garment dimensions is proposed in view of the problems such as low efficiency,high rate of mistakes in the method for measurement of garment dimensions by manual.Firstly,a measurement system is designed and its feasibility is also analyzed.Secondly,aiming at the difficulties to measure the garment dimensions automatically,the image measuring technique is used and the SUSAN method is proposed for the detection of external corners of garment image,the retro-reflective target is also used for the detection of inner corners of garment image.And methods for dimensions calculating and error analysis are also proposed.This method has overcome the problem that the dimensions hard to be measured as the garment is flexible.Experimental results show that its measurement accuracy can meet actual apparel industrial measurement requirements.

Area ease distribution relationship between the body and garment

XU Jihong;ZHANG Wenbin;XIAO Ping

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  102-106. 

Abstract ( 1064 )   PDF (1276KB) ( 611 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In accordance with the clouds data of the standard body and various garment sizes of a specific style using the 3-D scanner,the curves of the cross sections of different parts are fitted using least square method and cubic polynomial functions,the co-ordinations of points that divide curve by even arc length are calculated,algorithm model of the area ease between the body and garment is built.This article discusses the distribution relationship of area ease between the body and garment as changing with body angles and exposes the change rule of vacant area between the body and garment.It has provided the real ease distribution relationship between the body and garment for the garment manufacturing sector,realized objective evaluation of the differences of garment appearance,improved the fit of garment,and offered a testing standard for checking the effect of 3-D simulation of the garment.

Anatomizing the traditional ideology in Chinese culture from the phenomenon of women′s feet-binding with bandages

梁惠娥;翟晶晶;崔荣荣

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  107-109. 

Abstract ( 1063 )   PDF (1758KB) ( 545 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

From the phenomenon of women′s feet-binding with bandages in feudal society in China,this article analyzes the traditional ideology and views on aesthetics.It asserts that the appearance of this phenomenon is due to the decline of woman′s social status and spreading of thoughts of″male superiority and female inferiority.″ It is one of metaphors of″Chinese sexy culture,″ expressing properly the ancient philosophy and aesthetics of″behaving gently and quietly,″ and it is an abnormal social behavior formed under the influence of the Chinese old ethical code in feudal society.It′s an important criterion for a beauty′s judgments and a symbol of a woman′s social status,or even of a family′s social status.

机械与器材

Effect of pin carding plate on removal of impurities

ZHANG Mingguang;SUN Pengzi;WANG Lanprocessed by carding plate.

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  110-113. 

Abstract ( 1105 )   PDF (1266KB) ( 466 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

To research the effect of pin carding plate on removal of impurities from card slivers,impurities tests were carried out for the card slivers under different gauges,taker-in speeds and doffer speeds using pin carding plate,saw-tooth carding plate and taker-in grid under the card taker-in by USTER AFIS single fiber tester.The results show that the ability of removing impurities of pin carding plate is worse than that of saw-tooth carding plate as a whole;the card using installing taker-in grid under taker-in is more favorable to impurities removing than that installing pin and saw-tooth carding plate.Visibie foreign matter(VFM) of the card slivers processing by saw-tooth carding plate is better than that of the card slivers processing by pin carding plate as a whole.The taker-in grid program is better than pin and saw-tooth carding plate program.The average diameter of impurities in the card slivers processed by pin carding plate is a bit larger than that of impurities in the card slivers processed by saw-tooth carding plate,while the average diameter of impurities in the card slivers processed by taker-in grid is larger than that of impurities in the card slivers processed by carding plate.

Investigation on the lateral twist sizing device for reducing ramie yarn hairiness

HAN Shihong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  114-116. 

Abstract ( 1231 )   PDF (1252KB) ( 589 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

The distribution and causes of ramie yarn hairiness were analyzed.The traditional methods of reducing ramie yarn hairiness and their disadvantages were given.To eliminate ramie yarn hairiness in warp sizing,lateral twist auxiliary device based on false-twisting was designed,by which,the ramie yarns were sized.And the mechanism of lateral twist auxiliary device was discussed.Ramie yarns sized by lateral twist auxiliary device and ordinary auxiliary device respectively were used to weave samples separately,and the two samples were compared for the sizing quality.The results showed that the content of ramie yarn hairiness by this device was reduced by 90%.The yarn quality was improved obviously,the opening in weaving process was clear and the end breaking rate decreased sharply.

管理与信息化

Computer simulation of moisture absorption and permeability of fiber assembly

WANG Yaguang;WANG Huaping;WANG Chaosheng;ZHANG Yumei

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  117-121. 

Abstract ( 1271 )   PDF (1402KB) ( 463 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In this paper,the factors of moisture absorption and moisture permeability of fiber assembly were defined according to its mechanism.And a model was stated.With the original simulator named Shape-Ganerator(SG) which was compiled by Visual C++,the moisture absorption and moisture permeability of PTT fiber assembly with different linear density was simulated on computer.The result of simulation indicates that moisture absorption of PTT fiber assembly was improved along with fining of fibers till a certain size.When the linear density of fiber is 0.36 dtex,the moisture absorption of fiber assembly comes to extremeness.And further fining of fibers is ineffectual for moisture permeability.In the other hand,moisture permeability of PTT fiber assembly was declined along with fining of fibers.

Benefits evaluation and application of an ERP project

LIU Chi;WU Feng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  122-126. 

Abstract ( 1028 )   PDF (1332KB) ( 440 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

The affecting mechanism of ERP on enterprise performance is discussed.The benefits of ERP are divided into tangible and intangible benefits.The Hochstrasser model is selected to analyze the uncertainties of tangible benefits in the process of an ERP project.An ERP value creation index model is developed to evaluate the intangible benefit of an ERP project,in which nine critical drivers of non-financial performances are listed which include enterprise innovation,brand and environment,etc.Furthermore,fuzzy method is employed to assess intangible benefits of ERP.In order to pilot this approach,a case study is implemented in clothing industry.The outcome of the research provides a new approach to effective assessment of the value of an ERP project and is helpful for managers of ERP projects to make decisions rightly.

Forecasting seasonal garment demand by the static method

WANG Hongfu;GAO Qing

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  127-129. 

Abstract ( 1172 )   PDF (1265KB) ( 645 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

Garments such as swimwear are sensitive with seasons and their market demand fluctuates a lot.It is hard for enterprises to make an accurate forecast for the demand of these garments.This article has proposed a static analysis method for forecasting the market demand of short life cycle garments such as swimwear.According to this method,the sales data of a garment in hot selling season are collected,classified,sorted out and analyzed,and forecast is made based on it.The results indicate that other fashion class products(feather clothing,for example) which have the same obviously seasonal demand just like swimwear can be forecasted by the same way.

Technique of 3-D human body molding based on Geomagic

LI Yan;HUANG Kai

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2008, 29(5):  130-134. 

Abstract ( 973 )   PDF (1333KB) ( 596 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

According to the request of the modern computer aided garment design for 3-D human body model,this article explored a practical technique that can create personality 3-D human body NURBS curve model rapidly based on non-contacting measuring method,i.e.,using the platform of data cloud gained by laser 3-D human body scanner,the reversing engineering software Geomagic Studio was utilized for modeling.The paper expatiated how to optimize human body data cloud during the process of reconstructing the human body curve and introduced some applied editing techniques for treating the polygon of human body or body curve slice.The 3-D human body model created by this way is characterized by reality and exquisiteness,which satisfy the request of the garment industry in model precision and utility value.