Table of Content

15 July 2007, Volume 28 Issue 7

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纤维材料

Effect of LiCl on the structure of electrospun polyacrylonitrile nanofibers

QIN Xiaohong;YANG Enlong;WANG Shanyuan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  1-3. 

Abstract ( 985 )   PDF (206KB) ( 508 )   Save

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Electrospinning is a relatively simple method to produce nanofibers from polymers and polymer solutions or melt.If the solution is insulating completely,or the applied voltage is not high enough so that electrostatic force cannot overcome the surface tension,no fiber can be produced by electrospinning.However,if some salt is added in the solution,the problem can be overcome.The diameter of nanofibers electrospun with polyacrylonitrile(PAN) solutions with different mass percentage of LiCl ranges from large to small: 4%LiCl>3%LiCl>2%LiCl>1%LiCl.Characterization of the microstructure of the electrospun fibers was performed by X-ray diffraction and infrared spectrum.The added salts are beneficial for electrospinning and won′t change the structure of PAN nanofibers.

Microstructures and mechanical properties of electrospun PLA fiber composite nonwoven mat

XU Anchang;ZHAO Jingna;PAN Zhijuan;GAO Xiaoyan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  4-8. 

Abstract ( 970 )   PDF (268KB) ( 666 )   Save

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Porous nonwoven can be constructed by electrospun micro PLA fibers,On the basis of determination of electrospinning parameters,the influence of substrate on the microstructures and mechanical properties of PLA felt is investigated.The results show that PLA /dichloromethane solution with a mass concentration of 11% can be electrospun into continuous,slick and uniform fibers.When electrospun silk fibroin or polyamide fiber nonwoven is used as the substrate,PLA fibers will become finer and distributed on it evenly,turning it into a porous mat.The elongation strength at break of the PLA fiber composite nonwoven mat has improved significantly.

Investigation on electrostatic flocking process of sea-island fiber

YANG Shuzhen;YU Jianyong;LIU Lifang;YANG Jisong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  9-11. 

Abstract ( 1058 )   PDF (170KB) ( 524 )   Save

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Sea-island fiber flock in substitution for the traditional fibers in electrostatic flocking radically solves the constrain of flocked product development due to the size of fiber.The mechanism about how superfine fibers charging in electric field was analyzed.Flocking properties can be examined according to the number of planted flock.The independent variables affecting available flock quantity including voltage,electrode separation and flocking time have been investigated in this paper.Experimental results show that increasing the flocking time and voltage,increases the planted flock,while the effect of increasing the electrode separation is on the contrary.

Production process of the functional and cool polyester fiber

CAO Xinyang;DUAN Yafeng;QIAN Zhangbao;ZHAO Jiangfeng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  12-14. 

Abstract ( 1358 )   PDF (132KB) ( 582 )   Save

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To develop functional polyester fiber with antibacterial,anti-ultraviolet,cool and skin-and health care properties,we used the submicronsize particles of ZnO as primary additive in systematic research,made modification and optimization of the conventional polyester production process,and finally determined the production process of functional and cool polyester fiber as follows: functional additive content,4%-6%;spinning temperature,285-(295 ℃;) drying temperature,170-(180 ℃;) and spinning speed:(3 000-)(3 100 m/min.)

Effect of drying temperature on sericin film structure

XIE Ruijuan;LI Mingzhong;ZHU Meinan;YAN Ming

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  15-18. 

Abstract ( 1102 )   PDF (136KB) ( 542 )   Save

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Silk sericin was used as material to prepare sericin film varying drying temperatures.The effect of drying temperature on the structure of sericin film was researched by using X-ray diffraction,infrared spectroscopy,and DTA.The results showed that drying temperature had obviously influence on aggregation structure of sericin protein in temperature range of 30-(100 ℃.) The aggregation structure dried at(30 ℃) was mostly amorphous.With the temperature increasing,the tightness of sericin protein′s aggregation structure was increased and,became obvious above(80 ℃.)The important temperature point for significant modification of sericin protein structure was about(40 ℃.)

Study on the mechanism of crosslinking between BTCA and silk fibroin

XU Xiujuan;GU Yan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  19-21. 

Abstract ( 910 )   PDF (117KB) ( 364 )   Save

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Alanine,serine and silk were used as model chemicals and material to study the mechanism of crosslinking between BTCA and silk fibroin via TG analysis.The study compared the TG curves of BTCA and alanine,serine,silk between 100-(200 ℃,)The data showed that except alanine,BTCA exhibited big weight loss when mixed with serine and silk under normal durable press finishing conditions in the presence of NaHPO_2.For the serine has hydroxyl in the structure while alanine has not,so the data indicate definitely that the main crosslinking during the durable press finishing of silk using BTCA is still the ester link.

纺织工程

New method to measure the yarn bending rigidity from the yarn-hung configuration

LIANG Jianxun;YU Weidong;YAN Haojing

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  22-24. 

Abstract ( 1385 )   PDF (107KB) ( 428 )   Save

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In the traditional measuring methods,the bending modulus of yarn is mostly expressed in the force and the corresponding degree of flexibility produced as the sample being bent.However,the measured results acquired from these methods tend to be affected by the confining conditions and the basic hypotheses,thus are not comparable.In this paper,a new model to measure the bending rigidity is constructed,based on the yarn-hung configuration and the definition of bending rigidity in the engineering science.The parameters in the resulted formula are relatively easy to measure,which makes the formed method applicable in practice.

Moisture absorbance and sweat transportation properties of cross profile polyester woven fabrics

CHEN Lihua

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  25-28. 

Abstract ( 1052 )   PDF (104KB) ( 515 )   Save

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To get understanding of the moisture absorbance and sweat transportation properties of the woven fabric made with cross profile polyester fibers,plain and twill weave mixed fabrics were designed and developed by means of its blended yarns of different constructions.The moisture absorbance and sweat transportation properties of the fabrics,such as hydroscopicity,air and moisture permeability,and quick drying,were tested.The analytical results demonstrate that fiber content and fabric structure exert certain influence on the moisture absorbance and sweat transportation properties of the fabric,thus providing a reference for the development and application of fabrics with the moisture absorbance and sweat transportation properties.

Comparison of hypsometry and goniometry in contact angle measurement

DU Wenqin;WU Yingzhu

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  29-32. 

Abstract ( 1269 )   PDF (221KB) ( 1808 )   Save

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It is more precise to characterize the repellency of the fabric by contact angle.The method of measuring the contact angles between a droplet and fabric is one of the most commonly methods,whereas hypsometry and goniometry are most commonly used methods in the measurement of an angle.It is found through actual tests that these two methods results in larger measurement error,and its cause remains unknown yet.In this paper,the principle and error of these two methods were analyzed and compared theoretically.Meanwhile,the measurement error of contact angles caused by the measurement error of droplet height,the bottom diameter of droplet and the turning error of protractor were discussed.Verification experiments were performed and the results obtained are coincident with the theory.Finally,hypsometry is proved to be more precise,faster and more convenient.

Essence of innovative designs on digital jacquard fabric

ZHOU Jiu;Frankie NG

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  33-37. 

Abstract ( 974 )   PDF (110KB) ( 631 )   Save

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Jacquard fabric with higher technical requirements both in design and production is always regarded as top-grade product of woven textiles;and the broad application of digital technologies has been laying a foundation for creating innovative designs of digital jacquard fabric.In this paper,based on the investigation of development of digital textile and its outcomes,an in-depth analysis has been carried out to highlight the innovative factors both in design concept and method of digital jacquard.As a result,the study drew a conclusion that the essence of innovative designs on digital jacquard is that reinventing the structural design method via employment of digital technologies so as to form a creative effect of fabric.Besides,as an example,the structural design method of layered combination is taken to illustrate the essence of digital jacquard,which indicates the fact that the innovation of structural design can be considered not only an important method for creation of jacquard fabric but also one of the optimal standards for estimating the value of innovations in the field of digital jacquard designing.

Relationship between capillary properties and configurations and wicking capability of fabric

FAN Fei;QI Hongjin

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  38-41. 

Abstract ( 1108 )   PDF (121KB) ( 1269 )   Save

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For quantitative measurement and description of moisture transfer principle,an self-developed capillary effect testing apparatus consisting of an electron balance and a subsection-fast liquid response set was used to determine the capillary distribution and wicking rate perpendicular to the fabric plane.The relation between capillary distributions and wicking capability and the influence of the fabric configuration on capillary distributions were analyzed.The principle of optimizing the design of the woven fabric was discussed.The moisture transfer speed in the fabric depends not only on the size of capillary-averaged,maximum or minimum,the capillary distribution also plays an important role.The larger the linear density of the fabric,the smaller the thread count,and the fabric structure is looser,and among the capillaries formed,the coarse capillaries are predominating,the wicking rate is faster.In terms of fast wicking process, the coarse capillaries are decisive.

Flax weft knitted fabric and its tensile properties

LI Hongxia;ZHOU Qiong;HUAHG Gu

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  42-46. 

Abstract ( 1040 )   PDF (130KB) ( 495 )   Save

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The paper studied some flax flat knitted fabrics developed on the STOLL computer′s flat-knitting machine.It was found that the flax flat-knittability could be improved by some effective methods,including maintaining moisture,using two-ply flax yarns,pre-processing and designing rational knitting parameters.The(fabric′s) structure,weight,thickness and tensile properties of the samples were tested and analyzed statistically.The findings revealed that when the flax milano rib of NP=10.5,the fabric has better tensile properties and lower cost.It can be used as the preform of eco-friendly textile composites of better energy absorption.

Effects of fabric extension during coating on the tensile performance of membrane material

LUO Guojian;DING Xin;CHEN Shouhui;HU Chun

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  47-51. 

Abstract ( 948 )   PDF (132KB) ( 444 )   Save

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Considering the crimp interchange and tensile effects of fabric in coating process,a space truss model for the tensile performance of coated fabric as architectural membrane material is developed and the effects of fabric extension in coating process are discussed.In simulation the tensile deformation mechanism of either crimp interchange or tensile deformation of fabric in coating is analyzed.By means of the least square method,the nonlinear tensile curve of fabric is approximated by sections of linear fitting.PVC/PES coated fabrics are used to evaluate the feasibility of the model.It is demonstrated that,once the tensile properties of a fabric are known and the extension of the fabric in coating process is controllable,the tensile performances of the fabric after coating can be predicted.

Design of annular woven fabric used for composite flywheel winding

GUO Xingfeng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  52-54. 

Abstract ( 904 )   PDF (117KB) ( 507 )   Save

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In order to increase the radial strength of the composite flywheel,a kind of annular fabric in which yarns exist in the radial direction was designed in accordance with the unfolding shape of flywheel.The warp yarns are in the circular direction and weft yarns in the radial direction.The shear deformation between warp and weft yarns was analyzed in the weaving process.The shear angle gradually increases during the fabric moving from the fell to the take-up and shaping roller's holding position on the loom.The existence of shear deformation makes the maximum and minimum radii of the annular fabric on the loom are smaller than those of designed,but the warp yarn density becomes greater.The deduced relationship between the size of fabric on the loom and designed fabric size can be used to instruct annular fabric design.A kind of carbon fiber annular fabric was woven and the designed structure was obtained after shear deformation in the opposite direction when the fabric was off the loom.

染整与化学品

Side chain structure of polyether-silicone phosphates Vs its properties

LIU Yanjun;GE Qi;ZHOU Cun;WANG Yonggang;QU Junhua

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  55-57. 

Abstract ( 944 )   PDF (129KB) ( 439 )   Save

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A series of polyether-silicone phosphate salt was prepared with polyether-silicone and P_2O_5 followed by neutralization,and the influence of the structure change of polyether side-chain on the property of the resulting product.With the increase of EO content or the rise of molecular in polyether chain,the surface tension of polyether silicone phosphates(SiPS)increases accompanied with the decrease of their wetting property,due to the improved hydrophilicity of SiPS.With the increase of the EO/PO ratio,the emulsified property of SiPS decreases due to the increased hydrophilicity,but the rise of molecular weight in polyether chain causes improved emulsified property.The rise of either the EO/PO ratio or the molecular weight of polyether chain can improve the water absorption of SiPS,which results in the improved antistatic property.

Dyeability and rheological property of PP modified with hyperbranched polymer

HU Ming;XU Dezeng;GUO Jing

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  58-61. 

Abstract ( 1050 )   PDF (119KB) ( 507 )   Save

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将超支化聚合物应用于聚丙烯纤维(PP)的共混改性,共混比例为2%~10%。实验结果表明:超支化聚合物的加入改善了PP的染色性,当超支化聚合物的质量分数为8%时,PP的上染率达到70%。共混体系为非牛顿假塑性流体,其表观黏度随剪切速率的增大而减小;随着超支化聚合物含量增大,共混物非牛顿流动指数上升,剪切速率上升,流变性能改善;共混物黏流活化能可达47.83 kJ/mol,黏温依赖性随着超支化聚合物含量的增加而增大。超支化聚合物含量为2%~4%时,拉伸强度上升约10%。

Application of glycidyl methacrylate modified polyacrylate binder

DONG Junzhe;FANG Kuanjun;ZHANG Xia;FU Shaohai;TIAN Anli;WANG Chaoxia;JIANG Xue

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  62-64. 

Abstract ( 1132 )   PDF (165KB) ( 560 )   Save

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A glycidyl methacrylate(GMA)modified polyacrylate binder for pigment printing,which was synthesized by seeded semi-continuous emulsion polymerization,was applied to improve the handle and fastness of printed textile.The effects of dosage of binder,pH value and baking temperature and time on dry and wet rubbing fastness,color strength(expressed as(K/S) value) and the handle of pigment printed goods were studied and analyzed.And The results indicate that better printing effect can be obtained with this product when the dosage of this binder is about 10% of printing pastes,the range of pH value in 7-8,the baking at(150 ℃) for(3 min.) Compared with other homemade or imported similar products,the GMA modified acrylate binder can enhance more the color strength of printed goods and give softer handle.

服装与化学品

Anion finishing of linen and ramie fabrics and anion-generating capacity thereof

GE Mingqiao;YANG Weijun;LI Yonggui

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  65-68. 

Abstract ( 1088 )   PDF (140KB) ( 424 )   Save

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In order to study further on the anion-generating regulation of anion linen and ramie fabrics,anion finishing agent was used for multi-functional treatment of linen and ramie fabrics by dip-padding technique,and the anion-generating capacity,soaping fastness,surface morphology and molecule structure were tested.The effects of temperature,humidity,fabric species and specification on anion-generating capacity and reasons of better anion-generating capacity of linen and ramie anion fabric were also analyzed.The results reveal that the effects of temperature and humidity on anion-generating capacity are remarkable,and the anion-generating capacity reaches maximum at(30 ℃),RH 80%.In addition,fiber materials, weaves as well as fabric densities also have a definite influence on anion-generating capacity.The molecule structure of the treated fabric is not altered.

染整与化学品

Dyeing behaviour and mechanism of PTT and PET fiber

ZHANG Lingling;ZHENG Jinhuan;CHEN Weiguo

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  69-72. 

Abstract ( 1337 )   PDF (130KB) ( 588 )   Save

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In order to consummate the dyeing and finishing theory of PTT fiber,ensure the dyeing quality of PTT fabrics,this paper has investigated optima dyeing process and dyeing mechanism of disperse dyes to PTT and PET fabrics through dyeing them with two different types of disperse dyes and measuring the dye-uptake,(K/S) value and colorfastness,and discussed the difference of dyeing behaviour for PTT and PET polyester fibers.The result has showed that the dyeing behaviour of PTT fiber is better than that of PET.PTT fiber is a polyester fiber with excellent dyeability.The optimal dyeing temperature varies with disperse dyes used for dyeing PTT fibers;The two-tone effects of PTT and PET fibers will be obtained in one bath dyeing at 100-(110 ℃),and the union-colour effects of PTT and PET fibers will be obtained in one bath dyeing at 120-(130 ℃).

Improvement of the performance of size film by high speed shear homogenization

RONG Ruiping;XIE Gaijun

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  73-76. 

Abstract ( 847 )   PDF (198KB) ( 415 )   Save

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Various kinds of sizing liquid including pure starch,pure PVA and their mixture were treated respectively by high speed shear homogenization method for the purpose of investigating the change of their size film behaviors after treatment.The experimental results indicate that homogenization can improve the property of pure starch size film,and enhance the breaking strength,the breaking elongation and flex rate of mixture size film.The shear time and speed are in proportion with the improvement degree of the size films with the scope of research.

Effect of catalase-treated bleach effluents on the process of reactive dyeing

LENG Shaixiang;QIANG Guoshi;HUA Zhaozhe;DU Guocheng;CHEN Jian

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  77-81. 

Abstract ( 983 )   PDF (174KB) ( 528 )   Save

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In order to shorten pretreatment and dyeing process and improve the stability of enzymatic hydrolysis and dyeing in one bath,reactive dyeing of knitted cotton with the catalase-treated bleach effluents in one bath was investigated by comparing with traditional process.The effects of various concentration of H_2O_2 on the shade of the fabrics dyed with pure reactive dyes and mixed dyes were also observed.The results indicated that H_2O_2 had negative effect on the dyeing in the presence of Reactive Yellow 4-GL,Reactive Red B-3BF and Reactive Dark Blue B-2GLN.However,the effect on other dyes was insignificant.The enzymatic hydrolysis and dyeing effect in one bath can be improved by using soft water,decreasing the content of metal ions,adjusting electrolyte and dyes quantity.

Dyeing properties of dobby suede

DUAN Yafeng;HU Lingling;LIU Qingsheng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  82-85. 

Abstract ( 943 )   PDF (138KB) ( 441 )   Save

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The dyeing property of sea-island dobby suede fabrics was investigated in respect of dyeing temperature,dyeing time,the building-up of dye and color fastness and the optimal dyeing process was determined as follows: dyeing started from 40-(50 ℃),then raised the temperature slowly to(90 ℃),kept this temperature for(20 min),and raised the temperature slowly 110-(120 ℃),kept the temperature for(50 min;) Finally,the dyed fabrics were subjected to reductive cleaning.And the appropriate conditions of reductive cleaning were present: sodium carbonate(2 g/L),cleanser(2 g/L) at(80 ℃) for(20 min.)

服装工程

Influence of the infant body form on clothing design

WANG Yongjin

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  86-90. 

Abstract ( 902 )   PDF (284KB) ( 679 )   Save

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This paper studies the influence of body forms of infants on the clothing structure and function design from the Ergonomics perspective.Firstly,the body observation,anthropometrics and temperature measurements of 38 infants were conducted.Secondly,the body characteristics were analyzed based on the observation and measurements from the standpoint of morphology,motion,physiology and psychology.The influence of body characteristics on the clothing function was discussed.Finally,the relationship between infant characteristics and the key points in infant clothing design was studied on eight aspects: fabric selection,clothing outline,size,structure,color,pattern,and accessory as well as sewing method.

Analysis of the body figure features of boys aged 6-9 in Liaoning province

WU Shigang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  91-93. 

Abstract ( 1095 )   PDF (99KB) ( 357 )   Save

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The static measurement was carried out on 6-9 years old boys randomly selected from Liaoning province,and the statistic analysis such as the means analysis,ANOVA,etc,was performed to analyze and compare the change of body figure features such as sitting height,arm lenth,chest girth,waist girth and hip girth,etc.With different regions(city and countryside) and different ages and heights by using the SPSS software.It was found that there are greater differences in weight and height between the city boy and the boy form the countryside.The findings about the figure features and differences will provide a valuable reference for the improvement of the sizing system and the product development for children′s wear.

Design and study of shoulder pads of clothing

WANG Xiaoyun;SHAN Yufu

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  94-97. 

Abstract ( 995 )   PDF (245KB) ( 748 )   Save

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In the light of the problems existing in the size,structure and material of shoulder pads caused by its design usually based on the experiences,the design and manufacture of shoulder pads of clothing are studied starting from the shape,structure and function characteristics of human shoulders.The shoulders of human body are plotted out scientifically from the viewpoint of anatomy,the figure data of shoulders are measured by the 3D auto-anthropometric system and the design of basic style of shoulder pads are completed.According to the changes of shoulder′s structure and the characteristics of fabric,the shape of shoulder pads can be corrected.Compared with the shoulder pads used before,the one newly designed has good effect on the shape and athletics function of clothing and has practicability to some extent.

Evaluation of the effect of environment factors on the moisture permeability of leather using grey system theory

ZHONG Anhua;XU Weilin;CUI Weigang;PENG Xuqiang;ZHANG Yuan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  98-100. 

Abstract ( 872 )   PDF (107KB) ( 469 )   Save

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The quantity of moisture transmitted through leather under different environment conditions was measured with self-made instrument,and the effect of ambient temperature,relative humidity and so on of the leather garment during wearing on its moisture permeability was evaluated using grey system theory.Quantitative analysis of each factor on the moisture permeability was conducted,and it revealed that they were in such an order: ambient temperature>pressure>relative humidity >time of moisture transmittance.Since the environment factors are influencing on each other and rather complicated,the results evaluated by means of grey system theory have certain degree of confidence,thus providing a scientific basis for researchers to design comfortable leather clothing for adapting the change of environment.

机械与器材

Using numerical-approximation method to improvement movement regularity of the cloth-frame of embroidery machines

CHENG Xiaoxiong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  101-104. 

Abstract ( 868 )   PDF (119KB) ( 419 )   Save

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This paper introduced the reformation of the pure mechanical drive system of the old style embroidery machine using servo motor and microcomputer technique with focuses on its design and execution.The original machine head was replaced with servo motor to drive the cloth frame.The basic outline data of the cam was measured and the lifelike imitation of the movement curve of the old machine was obtained by numerical-approximation methods such as difference equation and third order spline function.Then the movement curve data was converted into step-by-step time partition of the servo motor and the simulation operation of the servo motor was controlled by program controller.After reformation of the machine,the breakdown is down,precision of embroidery is up,and the efficiency is raised by 30%.This method can be used as an reference for the renovation of the old machine of the same kind.

Tensile force control of electronic weft insertion on the separated slay type flexible rapier loom

XIAO Weibing

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  105-108. 

Abstract ( 1136 )   PDF (117KB) ( 445 )   Save

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In order to control the weft tension and its amplitude and improve the quality of fabric,the experimental data of yarn tension at different weft inserting motions with different yarns based on TT96 type rapier loom with electronic weft insertion partly modified were analyzed and compared.The results demonstrated that the weft tension and its amplitude can be effectively reduced and positively controlled to meet the requirements of weaving provided that suitable weft storage feed unit,weft feeding position and tension device are selected,modified trapezoid acceleration motion with smaller peak acceleration as the law of weft insertion motion is adopted,and the route of weft yarn motion is optimized.

Analysis of the beam bending vibration in computerized embroidery machine

LIN Jianlong;FU Cheng;MEN Guixiang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  109-111. 

Abstract ( 940 )   PDF (109KB) ( 432 )   Save

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The needle bar and the thread take-up device are the main mechanisms to form the stitch of the embroidery in a computerized embroidery machine.Since the needle bar and the thread-taking-up mechanism are fixed to the beam of the computerized embroidery machine,the bending vibration of the beam is very important for forming high quality stitch of the embroidery.The study is directed to the beam of a computerized embroidery machine with 2 driving mechanisms.Its bending vibration test in vertical and horizontal directions has been undertaken in four running cases,i.e.,the upper axis,the lower axis,the upper and lower axis,the overall machine.The natural frequency,response amplitude of the displacement,velocity and the acceleration rate of the bending vibration of the beam have been acquired.This paper put forward a concrete way to improve the structural design of the beam of the computerized embroidery machine,and its conclusion is applicable for it.

A new kind of jacquard controller based on MCU

SUN Lei;LU Jiangang;SUN Youxian

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  112-115. 

Abstract ( 1053 )   PDF (150KB) ( 607 )   Save

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In order to solve the problems confronted in designing the jacquard MCU based controller,a new method is presented to develop jacquard MCU W78E516B based controller,including hardware and software.Both the encountered and potential technical problems in the realization of the conlroller are analyzed,and corresponding measures are proposed.By replacing the traditional floppy drive with USB interface, the problem of weft number restricting the pattern is solved.Furthermore,our approach can protect the data at unexpected shutdown,so that after an accident it can make rapid resumption of production,and produces no scrap file in spite of frequent deletion and copy,which is ensured by the files manager system.This controller has been put into operation in several mills,and the results show that it works smoothly and accurately.

Design of pattern preparation system of computerized flat knitting machine

LUO Bingyang;MO Yimin;GUO Yan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  116-120. 

Abstract ( 1414 )   PDF (124KB) ( 700 )   Save

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An original drawing edition system based on object-oriented and multi-layer concept is designed and realized in order to improve efficiency and make it easy to memorize knitting signs of computerized flat knitting machine.The new system provides so abundant pattern edition tools that pattern becomes simple and flexible to input and edit and display.In addition,it provides independent yarn colour palette,weave database,transfer database,election of quantity of transfer needle and jacquard pattern database.As a result,the new method alleviates the burden of pattern technologists in the memory knitting sign.The convenience of drawing and design is maximized.Program and looming draft are produced automatically during edition to make pattern design fast and accurate.The system provides users a direct and friendly interface by combining window instruction with menu programme.

管理与信息化

Design of collaborative product commerce system for the garment industry

YING Weiping;LI Renwang;WEI Bo;ZHOU Lili

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  121-124. 

Abstract ( 957 )   PDF (124KB) ( 409 )   Save

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In combination with the development of collaborative product commerce(CPC)theory and application as well as the current status of the domestic garment industry,the collaborative product commerce theory for the garment industry is researched with focuses on its design and the Structure of CPC system,along with a brief description of the features of CPC for the garment industry.

Learning curve and its application to the garment product estimation

ZHU Xiuli;HANG Xiaogang;WU Chunsheng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  125-128. 

Abstract ( 1293 )   PDF (104KB) ( 484 )   Save

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Nowadays in China,most domestic garment enterprises can only establish rough production plans based on practical experience,being unable to estimate the production result(including production efficiency,capacity and profit) scientifically and reasonably.This may often result in production confusion and bring some risks to the enterprise.For changing this situation,the author brought in the concept of learning effectiveness and applied statistical analysis to prove that the method of learning effectiveness was in good agreement with the rule of production of garments of woven fabric,i.e.,the changing rule of the production time for each garment increasing with the accumulated product quantity and the change of each machine′ output meeting the regulation of learning curve. This offers us a new scientific method to estimate production result and lower production cost.

综合述评

Progress on the gelation mechanism of sericin and its applications

XU Jun;JIANG Xueliang;SUN Kang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(7):  129-132. 

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The studies on the changes of physical properties of sericin during the transformation between gel and solution were reviewed,including light transmission rate,surface tension and adherence strength.The influences of temperature,solution concentration and pH value on the gelation speed of sericin were also elucidated.The micro-mechanism of these changes was examined using X ray diffraction,circular dichroism spectrum,infrared spectrum and DTA.It was proved that the sericin gel is thermal reversible.The gelation characteristics and applications of sericins blended or cross-linked with other substances were also described.