Table of Content

15 June 2007, Volume 28 Issue 6

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纤维材料

Structure of cotton fiber coated with collagen

XU Yunhui;HUANG Chen;CHEN Yuyue;LIN Hong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  1-4. 

Abstract ( 1033 )   PDF (128KB) ( 707 )   Save

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For exploiting the advanced functional fiber and new cellulose-based materials,a new cotton fiber modified with collagen protein was prepared through limited selective oxidation of cotton thread by sodium periodate,followed by reacting with the solution of collagen protein.Through analyzing the micro-morphology and the aggregation structure of cotton fiber treated with collagen protein,the changes in the micro-structure of cotton fiber coated with collagen were studied.The analysis suggested that the imine structure bonds were formed between collagen molecule and oxidized cotton fiber,and the treated fiber exhibited little change in crystallinity and marked enhancement in thermal stability.

Pore structure characterization of cotton fiber by nitrogen adsorption

DONG Weiguo;XU Jing;HUANG Junpeng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  5-7. 

Abstract ( 1219 )   PDF (101KB) ( 791 )   Save

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Nitrogen adsorption is more effective than transmission electron microscope(TEM) in the study of pore structure of cotton fiber.It can be applied to a lot of samples,and more information of pore structure parameters can be acquired.By use of nitrogen adsorption isotherm and of density function theory(DFT) analysis,the pore structures of cotton fiber,such as micropore volume and pore size distributions,were characterized.The results show that cotton fiber contains open pores,the maximum value of pore size distribution appears at 2.2 nm.The pore volume with diameter ranging from 2.0 to 4.0 nm makes up 68.16% of the total,and larger than 5.0 nm,18.49%.

Film morphology and molecular orientation of amino functional polysiloxane on cotton fiber substrate

AN Qiufeng;GAO Shengli;LI Linsheng;ZHANG Xiya;JIN Yunxia;LI Mingtao

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  8-11. 

Abstract ( 1245 )   PDF (283KB) ( 445 )   Save

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Film morphology and molecular orientation of N-β-aminoethyl-γ-aminopropyl polysiloxane(ASO-1) on cotton fiber were investigated by field emission scanning electronic microscope(FE-SEM) and X-ray photoelectron microscope(XPS).The experiment results indicated that the ASO-1 formed a uniform,some smooth film on the treated cotton fiber surface,especially as the working distance(WD) of FE-SEM is more than 200 nm.The XPS analysis showed that most of the N atoms from amino functional polysiloxane were fixed onto the interface between the cotton fiber and ASO-1.All of these suggests that the molecular orientation of ASO-1 on natural cotton fiber substrate is in such a manner that the silicon methyl groups project outward into air,while Si—O dipole bonds as well as amino groups point to the fiber interface.

Bacteria resistant property of hemp fiber and its anti-bacterial mechanism

周永凯.;张建春;张华

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  12-15. 

Abstract ( 1495 )   PDF (150KB) ( 1480 )   Save

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This study tests the bacterial resistance of hemp fiber and analyzes its anti-bacterial mechanism through the morphological structure and chemical composition of the fiber.The results indicate that the anaerobic bacteria cant′ survive in the inside of hemp fiber where exist a large specific surface-area,lots of holes and voids,and much oxygen.Hemp fiber contains a lot of phenols and their derivatives which are effective natural bacteria resistant materials and can inhibit the metabolism and physiology of fungi and other microorganism,break the structure of germ,and repress the generation of fungi until the death of germ.Moreover,the existence of a small amount of cannabinol is adequate to kill the fungi microorganism.

Study of cellulose pulp activated by electron beam irradiation

CHENG Bowen;WANG Yuanlong;REN Yuanlin;DING Changkun

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  16-19. 

Abstract ( 1256 )   PDF (137KB) ( 430 )   Save

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The cellulose pulp was pre-treated with electron beam irradiation technology.The infrared(IR) spectra testing,the surface and void analysis and the wide angle X-ray diffraction(WAXD) experimentation of the cellulose pulp before and after the treatment were carried out by using FT-IR spectrum,scanning electronic microscope and X-ray diffraction apparatus respectively,and the degrees of polymerization of the cellulose pulp before and after election beam irradiation treatment were measured by the method of copper ammonia solution.The results show that electron beam irradiation results in the degree of polymerization of cellulose decreasing,molecular weight distribution narrowing and appearance of carbonyl in molecular chain of the cellulose.Electron beam irradiation has insignificant influence on crystallinity,whereas the accessibility and the reaction activity of cellulose increase greatly after the treatment.

Preparation and characterization of water-soluble polyester

MA Qingfang;CHENG Zhenjuan;QIN Weiming;HUANG Zhichao;QIAN Jianhua

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  20-22. 

Abstract ( 975 )   PDF (130KB) ( 777 )   Save

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Water-soluble polyester(WSP) was prepared by adding modifying monomer with sulfonic group through copolymerization.And the WSP was characterized by FTIR、DSC and X-ray.The effects of modifying monomer on WSP′s water-solubility and crystallization and thermal property were studied.And the results show that the existence of SO in the molecular chain is confirmed by FTIR,thus proving that SIPE has participated in the copolymerization;and increasing modifying monomer improves the water-solubility of polyester effectively,but it is disadvantageous to its crystallization.

Effect of polyamide on the structure and property of electrospun fibroin fiber

PAN Zhijuan;XU Anchang;XIA Yanjie

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  23-27. 

Abstract ( 979 )   PDF (190KB) ( 693 )   Save

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Fibroin/polyamide blend fibers were electrospun with the mixture of 9% fibroin and 12% polyamide 6/66 copolymer formic acid solutions at 15 kV voltage and 15 cm distance from the tip of capillary to collecting screen(C-SD).The effects of polyamide content on the diameter and crystal of fiber and the mechanical properties of fiber mat were investigated.After being treated by ethanol,the morphology and performance of electrospun fibroin/polyamide fibers were analyzed.The results indicated that addition of polyamide in the fibroin formic acid solution not only decreased the diameter of fiber,but also improved its crystal and breaking strength of fiber mat.Electrospun fibroin/polyamide fibers treated by ethanol exhibited even swelling and higher crystallinity than as-spun ones,and the fiber mat was stronger and more stable in water.

Wettability of polyethylene terephthalate(PET) modified by low temperature argon plasma surface treatment

CHEN Bing;CHEN Yin;WANG Hongwei

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  28-31. 

Abstract ( 1085 )   PDF (134KB) ( 618 )   Save

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The application of low temperature argon plasma technology to improve the hydrophilic ability of PET was studied.The influences of different plasma working parameters(discharge power,duration of discharge and working pressure) on the water contact angle of PET were analyzed.IR and SEM were used to examine the morphological change of the treated PET samples.The results show that the change rule of water contact angle on the surface of PET film varies with the working parameter.After plasma treatment the quantities of CO and CC bonds on the surface of modified PET are increased,while ester radicals are decreased.And the wettability of PET was remarkably improved by argon plasma.However,time-series image change of the fiber surface of low temperature argon plasma treated PET is apparent.

Decay law of wettability of polypropylene fiber treated by dielectric barrier discharge(DBD)

DU Wenqin;HOU Zhongliang;QI Hongjin

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  32-34. 

Abstract ( 1021 )   PDF (133KB) ( 424 )   Save

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The wettability of polypropylene fiber was improved by DBD.Contact angles of polypropylene fibers were measured by a wetting balance and the adhesion power was calculated,and then the effect of treating power and time on the decay of wettability of polypropylene fiber was researched when using DBD treatment.The results indicate that any slight change of contact angle of the treated polypropylene fiber will bring about marked change of adhesion power decay of the fiber.The rate of decay of polypropylene fiber treated by DBD at different powers and durations of treatment exhibits very fast in the first 5 days and slows down and tends to equilibrium after 18 days.The decay of wettability of polypropylene fiber treated by DBD at power=200 W and time=0.31 s is slower and residual adhesion power is larger.

Color measuring and matching of polyester master batch and spinning thereof

CAO Xinyang;QIAN Zhangbao;DUAN Yafeng;ZHAO Jiangfeng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  35-39. 

Abstract ( 1516 )   PDF (223KB) ( 1131 )   Save

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Datacolor 600 computer system and the relevant application technology were used in color measuring and matching of the master batch of three primary colors,and making of colored polyester filaments through melt spinning was realized with the master batch and the color effect of polyester filaments was infinite with this technology.The low-stretch high-tenacity colored interlaced yarns of specifications were made such as 166.7 dtex/48 f and 222.2 dtex/72 f used as embroidering threads that are characterized by improved softness,smoothness and strength,lowered production cost and more diversified varieties.

纺织工程

Stress relaxation properties of yarns

SONG Jiangchao;LIANG Fangge;SHI Fengjun

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  40-44. 

Abstract ( 1059 )   PDF (131KB) ( 513 )   Save

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The stress relaxation properties of yarns are studied.Based on the superposition principle of Boltzman,the elongation-stress relaxation process of yarns is analyzed using the standard linear solid model.Theoretical equations of the elongation-stress relaxation process are deduced.The elongation-stress relaxation experiments of polyester/rayon and regenerated bamboo fiber/cotton blended yarns are performed under such conditions as constant stress and different elongation rates and constant elongation rate and different stresses.The regressive equations of stress relaxation and correlation coefficients of the yarns are calculated.Theoretical expectations display very good agreement with the experiment observations.It indicates that the standard linear solid model can be used to describe the stress relaxation properties of yarns under lower strain conditions.It is found from the experimental and theoretical results that the higher the strain or the elongation rate,the lower the relaxation time and more apparent the relaxation phenomenon.

Tensile properties analysis of polyester/cotton/silk tri-component Sirofil composite yarn

L Libin;DU Mei;ZHAO Lei

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  45-47. 

Abstract ( 900 )   PDF (130KB) ( 445 )   Save

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The tensile properties of tri-component Sirofil composite yarn is analyzed.To characterize the stretchability of the composite yarn,a three-element model with little distortion has been established.It is concluded that the elasticity modulus can be improved when three single yarns with different modulus of elasticity are composited.Under this condition,the modulus of elasticity of the composite yarn is among the three.Furthermore,in order to describe the elongation at break of the composite yarn,a four-component dynamic model of drawing with large distortion is developed.And the results obtained are verified by non-linear regression analysis.It is demonstrated that the properties of non-linear visco-elasticity of sirofil composite yarn can be characterized by using multinomial,and the curve plotted according to the experimental result is basically in agreement with that deduced by the theoretical model.

Testing and analysis of the creep behavior of spandex core-spun yarn

XIAO Feng;LI Yingjian

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  48-51. 

Abstract ( 1288 )   PDF (118KB) ( 503 )   Save

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The creep behavior of spandex core-spun yarns which were spun with soybean protein fiber,cotton or polyester fibers as outer sheath was tested.On the basis of viscoelasticity theory of textile material,four element mechanics model was utilized to analyze the extensional deformation rule of spandex core-spun yarn.Using DPS data processing system,the fitted equation of creep elongation was developed.The creep behavior of soybean-spandex,cotton-spandex and polyester-spandex core-spun yarns was studied accordingly.The results revealed that the creep behavior of spandex core-spun yarn varies with the fiber used as outer sheath,and the theoretical calculated value agrees well with the practical results.Four element mechanics model is ideal for describing the creep law of spandex core-spun yarn.

Relationship between the blended ratio and comfort properties of soybean protein fiber/polyester knitted fabrics

YANG Qingbin;WANG Rui;LIU Yixin

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  52-54. 

Abstract ( 1006 )   PDF (101KB) ( 715 )   Save

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In order to investigate the correlation of blended ratio and thermal-moisture comfort properties of soybean protein fiber/polyester knitted fabric,seven kinds of the blended fabrics with different blended ratios were chosen and their properties such as thermal retention,moisture vapor permeability,thermal conductivity,sensibility in temperature changes,air permeability and wettability were tested respectively with desired instruments.The experimental results show that as the content of soybean protein fiber increases in the blended fabric,the thermal retention property of the fabric improves gradually,thermal conductivity factor decreases,cool feeling gets better and better,air permeability improves and wicking effect enhances remarkably.

Scene simulation using geometrical constraints of weave texture

ZHUGE Zhenrong;XU Lixiang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  55-58. 

Abstract ( 1150 )   PDF (150KB) ( 378 )   Save

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To the problem of weave texture simulation in real scene,a new method of scene simulation using geometrical constraints of weave texture is proposed.By picking up the parallel and perpendicular constraints in the texture,the focus of the camera can be calculated based on the model of perspective image.Then the normal component of the texture can be worked out with the camera focus.After that,a basic plane is made and rotated around thexoryaxis to the location of the texture normal component,and the two angles around xandyaxes were calculated.Finally,the scene simulation was performed via interactive operations in Visual C++ 6.0 platform,using texture mapping.Experiments show that the simulation of 3D-effect of weave texture is vivid to real scene through this method.

All-coloring compound construction of digital jacquard fabric

ZHOU Jiu;NG Frankie

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  59-62. 

Abstract ( 1026 )   PDF (566KB) ( 584 )   Save

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Research on features of fabric construction and its structural design method under layered combination design mode is the key to innovative design of digital jacquard fabric.In this paper,a design method special for compound structure of jacquard fabric was introduced.Design theory is that setting a kind of all-coloring points for primary weaves before designing gamut weaves,the designed compound structure thus features no backed and all-coloring effect upon combination of weaves from two different weave-databases.This design method can be applied to design gamut weaves with any weave repeats and establish corresponding weave-database.And produced digital jacquard fabric features in steady construction and outstanding color shading effect.Besides,the number of superimposed color yarns in fabric construction should be arranged in an even value.

Calculation of the fabric volume fraction for three-dimensional braiding preform based on parameterized cell models

FENG Chi;WU Xiaoqing

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  63-65. 

Abstract ( 1056 )   PDF (136KB) ( 485 )   Save

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3D models of(interior,surface and corner) unit cells of the 3D braiding preform were established based on the characteristics of 3D entity modeling of Pro/E.Parameterized models were designed.Every kind of unit cell model can be auto created under different braiding parameters,and according to Pro/E model— analyzed function,the fabric volume of a cell can be output directly.The calculation formula of the perform fabric volume fraction was proposed based on parameterized cell models.The fabric volume fraction of the rectangular perform was calculated,and it is well in agreement with experiment result.The fabric volume fraction of annular sector perform was also calculated.It provides a new method for calculating fabric volume fraction of complex shape.

Research on the thermo-plastic composites reinforced by woven flax fabrics

HUANG Gu;LIU Liyan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  66-69. 

Abstract ( 898 )   PDF (121KB) ( 471 )   Save

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利用聚丙烯纤维对亚麻纱线进行包缠,使用该纱线织造3种经纱密度相同,纬纱密度不同的平纹织物。利用热压机将5层织物复合,分别制成3种复合材料板材。对板材的拉伸性能进行测试和分析。测试结果表明:织物中纱线的密度对层合板的强力和断裂伸长率有重要影响;在条件一定的情况下,随着织物纬纱密度的减小,材料沿经向的拉伸强度呈上升的趋势,而经向断裂伸长率呈下降趋势。

Mechanical properties of tubular textile composite material for pipeline rehabilitation

WANG Rui;ZHANG Shujie;GAO Yanzhang;WANG Huan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  70-74. 

Abstract ( 1000 )   PDF (158KB) ( 544 )   Save

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When the tubular textile composite material is used in rehabilitating the liner of a pipeline,it must withstand the pressure exerted by the medium in the pipeline,so its pressure withstanding properties directly affects the rehabilitation result.Based on the special mechanical property requirements of the tubular textile composite material and its own structural features,and through the test of its tensile property,the paper established a mathematical model to calculate the tensile strength /width/ bursting pressure and determine their relationships.The experimental results have proved that the precision of the model is high;when the diameter of the old pipeline and the size of the corrupt hole have changed,the model can calculate the maximum pressure that the tubular textile composite material can withstand.So it has significance in providing a guideline for the application of tubular textile composite materials.

染整与化学品

Effect of cynaoethylation of starch on its sizing behavior

CHEN Peihua;ZHU Zhifeng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  75-78. 

Abstract ( 1013 )   PDF (105KB) ( 476 )   Save

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In order to enhance the sizing behavior of starch,a series of cynaoethyl starch with different degree of substitution were prepared by using acrylonitrile as etherifying agent and varying the feed ratio of acrylonitrile to cornstarch for changing the degree of substitution of the starch ether.The influences of the modification method and extent on the behavior of starch film and adhesion to fibers were studied.The experimental results demonstrate that the starch etherification can improve the breaking strength,breaking elongation,flex resistance and wear loss of starch film.As the degree of substitution increases,the adhesion of cynaoethyl starch to cotton fibers initially increases and then decreases.A maximal bonding strength can be achieved when the degree of substitution is 0.047.However,the adhesion of the modified starch to polyester and polyester/ cotton fibers decreases as the degree of substitution increases when the degree of substitution exceeds 0.017.

Hemp retting by the combined action of high temperature boiling and enzymes

YU Chunhua;FENG Xinxing;JIA Changlan;CHEN Jianyong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  78-82. 

Abstract ( 978 )   PDF (152KB) ( 482 )   Save

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Chemical retting causes serious environmental pollution,and enzymatic retting has the drawback of poor yield.In order to overcome these disadvantages,hemp retting by the combined action of high temperature boiling and enzymes was researched.Hemp retting was performed by high temperature boiling,followed by enzymatic retting.And the effect of three kinds of enzymes on the composition and breaking strength of hemp was discussed.The morphology and composition of hemp after high temperature boiling-enzyme treatment were characterized by SEM and FTIR.The results show that pectase is suitable for hemp retting following high temperature boiling retting.Hemp retting by high temperature boiling,followed by pectase treatment can remove hemicellulose and lignin by 83.3% and 79.2%,respectively.

Study on the reaction behavior of silk fibroin with monochlorotriazine reactive dyes by HPLC analysis

SHAO Min;SHAO Jianzhong;LIU Jinqiang;FAN Qinguo

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  83-87. 

Abstract ( 1311 )   PDF (150KB) ( 689 )   Save

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Using lsopropyl amine,p-methyl-phenol and methanol for simulating the amino,phenol and hydroxyl groups of silk fibroin respectively,the reaction of monochlorotriazine reactive dyes with nucleophilic groups of silk fibroin was studied with high-performance liquid chromatography(HPLC).The results showed that the reaction of monochlorotriazine reactive dyes with nucleophilic group of silk fibroin varies with different types of nucleophilic group with optimal reaction conditions at about 85℃and pH= 8 ~ 9 for the phenol group,and 95℃and pH= 9 for the amino group.However,for the hydroxyl group,more strong basic condition is preferred.Besides,taking into consideration the content and distribution of nucleophilic groups of silk,it was deduced that monochlorotriazine reactive dyes were suitable for dyeing silk under the conditions of 85~95℃and pH=8~9,and in respect of the effect of reacting with monochlorotriazine reactive dyes,phenol groups occupied the first place,followed by amino groups,while hydroxyl groups,negligible.

Effect of anti-setting agents on cashmere properties during dyeing

ZHANG Mingwen;LI Xiaohui;LIAO Qing;CHEN Jihong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  88-91. 

Abstract ( 1185 )   PDF (162KB) ( 429 )   Save

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Two kinds of anti-setting agents synthesized in the laboratory were used in cashmere fibers simulation dyeing process under different conditions.Their protective effects were evaluated in terms of length,diameter,elongation at break and breaking strength of both the treated and untreated fibers.Experiment results show that the two kinds of anti-setting agents have remarkable protective effect for cashmere fibers during dyeing process.The fibers dyed in presence of anti-setting agents were superior to those dyed in absence of the agents in terms of all properties.The hydrophobic agent with high active functional group is better than the one with low active group.The longer the dyeing time,the shorter the fiber length,the coarser diameter,and the worse the tensile properties.When the anti-setting agents used in the range of 3% ~8%(o.w.f) during dyeing,it is beneficial to reducing the damage of cashmere fibers with increase of dosage.

Properties of nanoscale pigment surface-modified by polystyrene-butyl acrylate

MENG Qinghao;FANG Kuanjun;FU Shaohai

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  92-95. 

Abstract ( 957 )   PDF (171KB) ( 427 )   Save

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C.I.Pigment Blue 15∶1 was encapsuled by miniemulsion polymerization with styrene and butyl acrylate for the purpose of improving the rubbing fastness and reducing the use of auxiliaries such as binders.The effects of the amount of surfactants and monomers on the average particle sizes,PDI,stability of the system were investigated.The morphologies of the ultrafine particles were observed by the scanning probe microscope.The results indicated that the average particle size of the pigment first increases and then decreases as the amount of the monomers increases;the amount of surfactant affects the average particle sizes and the stability of the system;the rubbing fastnesses of the modified pigment for pure cotton fabric is rather good with absence of binders.

Degradation of Acid Orange G in water by ultrasound/Fenton method

XING Tieling;K.H.Chu;CHEN Guoqiang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  96-99. 

Abstract ( 911 )   PDF (130KB) ( 424 )   Save

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The sonochemical degradation of acid dye Orange G aqueous solution was studied using an ultrasound device with a 1.4 cm diameter horn.The effects of ultrasound power intensity,the initial dye concentration,pH and the addition of Fe2+on the decolorization of the dye were discussed.The rate of decolorization of the dye was found to be greatly improved in the presence of Fe2+.At pH = 2.8,T=30℃ sound energy density=400 W/L,and mass concentration of Fe2+=1 mg/L,the decoloration percentage of the 30μmol/L concentration dye solution reached 92%,and COD reduction reached 42% after 120 min sonication.The ultrasound degradation of the dye followed first-order kinetics.

服装工程

Micro-fan-array system enabled air conditioning suit for cooling human body

ZENG Yanzhang;DENG Zhongshan;LIU Jing

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  100-105. 

Abstract ( 1095 )   PDF (343KB) ( 573 )   Save

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The concept of the body cooling suit enabled from the micro-fan-array system was interpreted.Theoretical prediction and experimental measurements were performed to demonstrate the feasibility of the new cooling method.Based on Pennes equation,numerical simulation on the three-dimensional heat transfer in human body subject to various typical ambient thermal conditions revealed that,implementation of the micro-fan-array near the skin surface could significantly lower the body surface temperature,owning to its strong capability in heat transfer enhancement.Meanwhile,both infrared thermometer and thermocouple data acquisition system were adopted to measure the micro-fan-array cooling induced temperature decrease on a thermo-man used to simulate the human body.The results further strongly support the high efficiency of the micro-fan-array cooling.This research is expected to open a new strategy for developing air cooling suit aiming at flexibly regulating the heat dissipation states of the body surface under a hot environment.

Changing characteristics of Wuqiao acrobatic costume

CAO Yanju;ZHANG Jingqiong;WU Zhiming

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  106-108. 

Abstract ( 1057 )   PDF (128KB) ( 500 )   Save

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根据吴桥杂技的艺术特色,透视吴桥杂技服装的产生、演变与发展的基本过程,概括出吴桥杂技服装的3个基本变迁特征:吴桥杂技着装在萌芽时期就有了适应杂技动作需求的功能性特征;近代杂技服装的设计理念基本上是在生活服装的基础上结合杂技项目的特点进行改造;现代吴桥杂技服装不仅更能满足运动功能的需求,而且从感官上更能表现杂技与着装的和谐美,并具有丰富的文化与科技内涵。

机械与器材

CBN grinding wheel grinds inner runaway of the GCr15 rings

LI Chunguang;WANG Denghua

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  109-111. 

Abstract ( 1122 )   PDF (113KB) ( 414 )   Save

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The paper introduces a method of grinding the inner runaway of the rings with CBN grinding wheel replacing Al2O3grinding wheel,determines the desired properties of CBN grinding wheel,and designs a CBN grinding wheel and a set of diamond wheel dresser for it.It makes an in-depth study of the CBN wheel′s dressing parameters,such as the velocity rate of dressing,clockwise or anticlockwise dressing etc.It indicates through actual use that both the grinding precision and surface quality of the inner runaway of the ring have been improved,the roughness is reduced fromRa0.4μm toRa0.2μm,the dimension has the same accuracy,and no phenomenon of grinding burn is found.Each pair of CBN grinding wheel can grind more than 3 000 pieces of ring,extending the life span of the grinding wheel more than 50 times,while the productivity has been increased by 3 times.

Intelligent control system for edge position deviation of narrow fabrics

CHEN Dechuan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  112-114. 

Abstract ( 1046 )   PDF (144KB) ( 427 )   Save

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Focused on the S-shape deviation problem in the narrow fabric production process,this paper introduces an intelligent control system with DC servomotor as the actuator for an intermediate guide roll system.To improve the dynamic performance of the deviation control system and solve the motor vibration problem,the deviation control algorithm is proposed,which is related to intelligent PD feedback control combined with the feed-forward regulation for the system deviation,and its MatLab simulation result shows its good performance and advantages.Furthermore,a technical approach for the deviation controller using high-speed mixed signal micro-controller C8051F020 is presented.The system is applied in the intermediate guide roll system,and the application result indicates that this system is characterized by fast response and steady operation and it is a good solution for the motor vibration.

Theoretical discussion on installation of additional carding equipment at the back sheet of a card

SHAO Jingdang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  115-117. 

Abstract ( 1054 )   PDF (112KB) ( 533 )   Save

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This article makes a theoretical analysis of the air current at the back sheet of a card and propose the concept of gauge ratio,assuming that at the back sheet exists a maximum pressure point whose location is related with gauge ratio,pressure difference,exit gauge and back sheet length.The current status of research on the back sheet of the card is reviewed.It is considered that just additional installation of a web purifier is beneficial to the quality of yarns.And air capacity of 180~240 m3/h is preferred.Additional installation of a stationary flat along facilitate the yarn quality too,larger gauge is preferred.Combination use of web purifier and stationary flat will achieve even better results,and their mounting location should be at the maximum pressure point of the back sheet.

管理与信息化

Research on technological system for garment mass customization

ZHANG Tong;GU Qingliang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  118-122. 

Abstract ( 919 )   PDF (120KB) ( 395 )   Save

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To explore the production system of garment mass customization in theoretical and practical aspects,a framework of garment mass customization was proposed based on analysis of the systemic theory and the results of on-spot survey of some garment enterprises in Zhejiang,along with the supporting technologies,such as design,management,manufacturing,and integrated information & communication.They form a typical technological system of garment mass customization and its feasibility was discussed in combination with the above mentioned survey results.And it is considered that in the developed areas in China in terms of the garment industry,necessary conditions for implementing garment mass customization are already available.

Garment manufacturing process and organization mode oriented for time-based competition

LI Min;SHI Xuguang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  123-127. 

Abstract ( 1014 )   PDF (112KB) ( 496 )   Save

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The paper discusses the significant function of time factor in fashion manufacturing enterprise,studies how to shorten garment manufacturing time,how to implement grouping technique,CAD,rapid transfer for realizing quick response in precise quantity,quality and delivery from flexible production process of garment.It proposes the concept of standardization of product manufacturing for shortening lead time,coupled with melioration of logistic and information flow,cut of non-value-added ring,and simplification of manufacturing process.It has certain realistic significance and applied value for garment manufacturing enterprises.

Evaluation system for customer value of the leisure clothes enterprise's franchisor

ZHU Xiuli;YANG Qiuju;TU Ye

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(6):  128-132. 

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With respect to the operational characteristics of the domestic leisure clothes′market,it can be said that successful marketing of the products of an apparel enterprise stems from its right selection of its franchisors in various regions.How to evaluate the customer value,cement the relationship with the high-end customer and develop a relationship with the potential customer become essential to the customer relationship management of an apparel enterprise.The author selected the franchisors of a domestic enterprise producing famous brand leisure clothes as the research objects and applied Analytical Hierarchy Process to study the correlative factors of the franchisor in terms of customer current value and customer potential value,and developed a comprehensive evaluation system for customer value.The result of verification experiment has proved that this evaluation system is objective and feasible,which offers a new angle of view for apparel enterprises to carry out the scientific and effective customer relationship management of their franchisors.