Table of Content

15 May 2007, Volume 28 Issue 5

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纤维材料

Study on polyurethane/polyvinylidene fluoride blend hollow fiber membrane prepared by melt spinning

HU Xiaoyu;XIAO Changfa;AN Shulin;HUANG Qinglin

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  1-3. 

Abstract ( 1050 )   PDF (119KB) ( 534 )   Save

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Using melt spinning technology,polyurethane/polyvinylidene fluoride(PU/PVDF) blend was spun into hollow fiber membranes with interfacial micro-voids.The miscibility of PU and PVDF was analyzed.The pore formation of the membrane was discussed,and the morphology of the membrane was also observed.Results showed that with the improvement of the miscibility of PU and PVDF,the spinnability of the blend increased,but the pore formation property decreased.The interfacial micro-voids were opened by drawing,and with the increase in draw ratio,the water flux increased,then decreased and followed by fast increasing and the aggregation of the blend also became more regular.The structure of the membrane obtained was symmetrical and there were many interfacial micro-voids on the surface of the membrane with high draw ratio.

Synthesis and application of cellulose fiber grafted with β-cyclodextrin prepolymer

HU Zhiwen;ZHENG Shirui;WAN Junmin;GAO Lei;WEN Huitao;CHEN Wenxing

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  4-8. 

Abstract ( 1085 )   PDF (135KB) ( 480 )   Save

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Soluble β-cyclodextrin prepolymer was prepared in an alkaline medium, which was grafted onto the cellulose fiber,thus obtained a new functional fiber with inclusion of benzoic acid.The stability constant and apparent thermodynamic parameters of the inclusion complex under different temperatures were determined,and its stability and releasing behavior in aqueous solution were also investigated.It is observed that inclusion reaction which is affected by Van der Waals forces is one kind of exothermic.The inclusion complex contained in the fiber is rather stable under 20 ℃,and its release of benzoic acid reaches nearly optimum state around 37 ℃.

Preparation and characterization of carbon black coated polyester electrically conductive fiber

JIN Xin;XIAO Changfa;AN Shulin;WANG Yongyue

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  9-12. 

Abstract ( 1087 )   PDF (228KB) ( 570 )   Save

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The permanent conductive property of the coated fibers prepared by traditional coating method is poor.To overcome it,electrically conductive polyester fibers were prepared by dissolving-coating method,which is on basis of fiber surface dissolved partly.The effects of the content of carbon black and dissolved polyester on volume resistivity and linear density of the fibers have been discussed.And the mechanical,wash-proof and thermal properties of the fibers were analyzed.The results showed that coated fibers prepared by dissolving?-coating method are retained the desirable characteristics of the original fibers while low volume resistivity(9.2 Ω·cm) and permanent conductivity are achieved.

Properties of Alcalase hydrolyzing silk fibroin

ZHOU Fengjuan;XU Shiying;YANG Ruijin;WANG Zhang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  13-17. 

Abstract ( 886 )   PDF (143KB) ( 674 )   Save

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The properties of Alcalase hydrolyzing silk fibroin were studied.The results showed that the optimum conditions for Alcalase were 50 mg/mL substrate mass concentration,pH 9.0 and 60 ℃.The main amino acids of silk fibroin peptide were glycine,alanine,serine and tyrosine with a total amount of approximately 85%.The relative molecular weights of the main components of silk fibroin hydrolysate with DH 17% were 249 Da and 762 Da respectively,the contents about 72.9% and 15.5% respectively.The relative molecular weights of the main components of silk fibroin hydrolysate with DH 21% were 209 Da and 668 Da respectively,the contents about 84.4% and 7.2% respectively.

Dynamic adsorption process of sericin protein solutions

YANG Jianbin;ZHU Puxin;YANG Hongwei;WU Dacheng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  18-22. 

Abstract ( 1247 )   PDF (132KB) ( 435 )   Save

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The dynamic surface tensions of sericin solutions at a given concentration and different pH values were measured by Wilhelmy plate method.Such curves were plotted according to the dynamic surface tension(γ_t) data in different pH,as surface pressure p versus adsorption time t,the relationship between surface pressure and time,r_tlgt,and ln(dp/dt)p. The curves were analyzed by using some experiential expressions to elucidate the dynamic adsorption behavior,through which the adsorption parameters were deduced of adsorption half-time(t_1/2,the time required for surface tension decreasing to the half of the equilibrium value),the constant controlling adsorption mode(n),the mean molecule area of the molecule occupied at the interface both in initial penetrated and anchored state(ΔA_1) and in rearranged and reoriented state(ΔA_2).The results indicated that the adsorption process of sericin protein is attributed to a model of diffusion-controlled adsorption kinetics.The conformational transformation of sericin protein molecules adsorbed at the surface undergoes two dynamic steps.The first is initial penetration and anchoring of the molecule from aqueous solution to the surface,and the other is the rearrangement and reorientation of the adsorbed molecule at the interface. The pH value of sericin solution has influences on the dynamic surface tension and the adsorbed molecule area.When pH value of sericin solution is smaller than the equipotential point of sericin protein,ΔA_1 and ΔA_2 are smaller;the dynamic surface tension is higher;and the adsorption rate becomes slower,in comparison with those in the pH value higher than the equipotential point.

Study of cotton fiber coated by collagen

XU Yunhui;CHEN Yuyue;HUANG Chen

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  23-27. 

Abstract ( 904 )   PDF (158KB) ( 617 )   Save

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Collagen has great potential applications because of its unique construction of three-ply helix,predominant bio-compatibility and bio-degradability.For further development of the application domain of cellulose and exploiting new green cellulosic fibers,a new cotton fiber coated with collagen was prepared by the limited selective oxidation of the fiber with sodium periodate and subsequent treatment with the solution of collagen in this paper.The results showed that the breaking strength of the cotton fiber after the limited oxidation by sodium periodate did not decrease remarkably,and the collagen molecules through the CN double bond of the Schiff base combined on the surface of the cotton fiber.

Study on blending of polyacrylonitrile and thiocyanate intercalated layered double hydroxide

LI Guochang;YANG Yangong;JIA Zhao;WANG Houde

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  28-31. 

Abstract ( 973 )   PDF (127KB) ( 329 )   Save

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PAN-LDH polymer was made through blending by thiocyanate intercalated layered double hydroxide(SCN~--LDH) and polyacrylonitrile-sodium thiocyanate(PAN-NaSCN) aqueous solution.The flow property,flame retardance and structural features of the PAN-LDH were studied by utilizing various methods.The results showed that the flame retardant property of the sample was improved with LOI increasing from 18% to 21%;the flow property of the solution system before and after blending exhibited little change;FT-IR and X-ray diffraction revealed that the crystalline order declined and PAN had been intercalated into the layer of the LDH,which should be the primary contribution to the improvement of the flame retardant property.

Effect of active diluent content on the technological properties of VARTM resin

GENG Wei;ZHANG Guoli

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  32-34. 

Abstract ( 901 )   PDF (110KB) ( 383 )   Save

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In order to decrease the chemical reactivity and viscosity of E51 epoxy resin,an active diluent was added to E51 epoxy on a certain mass concentration and some modified amine hardener was incorporated into the low molecular polyamide hardener during preparation of bisphenol A epoxy resin based VARTM resin. The technological properties of VARTM resin and mechanical behaviors of the cured resin with different active diluent contents were investigated in this paper. The experimental results showed that reducing the content of low molecular polyamide and increasing the content of modified amine to some extent can effectively lower the low temperature reactivity of resin system.In addition,both the viscosity of the resin and the mechanical properties of the cured resin are affected by active diluent content.

纺织工程

Solospun technology and its product properties

HUANG Lixin;ZHU Chunxiang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  35-37. 

Abstract ( 991 )   PDF (126KB) ( 399 )   Save

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The feasibility of spinning Solospun yarn by using the imported spinning frame which has been modified was investigated.Through analyzing the technical principle and the characteristic of Solospun,it was determined to select the home-made grooved roller to carry out the modification of the machine.The Solospun yarns were manufactured with the modified machine through optimized experiments with respect to spinning material and process conditions.The test results showed that it is feasible to produce wool yarn by Solospun technology,it can shorten production process and enhance production efficiency.Moreover,when compared with the ring spun yarn,the Solospun yarn has better strength and elongation,less hairiness,and improved wear resistance and suitable for weaving in single yarn.

Structural features and tensile properties of friction hollow yarn

WEI Mingsen

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  38-40. 

Abstract ( 1034 )   PDF (110KB) ( 495 )   Save

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Friction hollow yarns are produced by removing the water soluble PVA yarns in the boiling water from the core friction yarns which are spun by using PVA yarns as the core and cotton fibers as the sheath.The structural features and the tensile properties of friction hollow yarns are examined.The main structural feature of the friction hollow yarn is that the yarn has a hole in the yarn center.The structure of the yarn after boiling becomes looser,and the yarn diameter is increased.The experimental results show that the strength of the friction hollow yarn is very low.It is due to that high strength core filaments have been extracted and inter-fiber cohesive force is diminished after the friction yarn is boiled.The strength of the friction hollow yarn can be increased obviously by using polyester multi-filament yarn as core enforcement.

Analyzing the vibrating characteristics of warp yarns during weaving

SHEN Danfeng;YE Guoming

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  41-46. 

Abstract ( 973 )   PDF (159KB) ( 461 )   Save

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This paper adopts nonlinear vibration method to analyze the fluctuation process of warp yarn during weaving and Kelvin model to analyze the constitutive relation of its visco elasticity.A differential equation of warp yarn vibration in lengthwise and crosswise is established based on Newton law.Using variable-separating method,it separates time variable from space variable,and Galerkin equation of discrete motion is used in discussion on the change trend of stable zone of the transition curve.And the numerical solution of the equation of motion is obtained using 4-order Runge-Kutta method.Furthermore,the effect of material properties of warp yarn and various parameters on the crosswise motion of the yarn is investigated,and the method to control the vibration of warp yarn is given.

Principle and method of compound structure design of digital woven fabric

ZHOU Jiu;Frankie Ng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  47-50. 

Abstract ( 976 )   PDF (267KB) ( 563 )   Save

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The woven fabric of complex structure is always designed by a combination way,which is hard to approach for its complicated design process and design variation.Along with the application of layered combination design method of digital woven fabric,the structure design of woven fabric can be performed in a mode of weave-database design replacing the traditional single weave design.Based on design of gamut weaves and weave-database,an investigation is carried out to analyze critically the combination principle among different weave-database,on which a scientific design method is presented.It is envisaged that the results of this study can be directly applied to creation of digital woven fabric,especially to innovative digital jacquard fabric designed in a layered combination way.

Design method of fabric fractal weave based on L-system

ZHANG Yu;JIN Yao;SUN Jiawu;TANG Jijie;SHUAI Qinfen

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  51-54. 

Abstract ( 964 )   PDF (416KB) ( 642 )   Save

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A new approach for designing fabric weave,which is different from traditional one,is proposed based on the theory of L-system with four leaves broken twill and 5 end satin as examples.The chain-language of L-system and computer graphics techniques are utilized to draw a kind of new weave,called fractal weave,which has a self-similar property and a multilevel structure.Then some practicable fractal weaves are drawn with other proper weaves filled,which have some fabric effects differed from traditional ones.And some jacquard weaving experiments are made by using electron jacquard loom,and a preliminary study of fabric effects obtained from the fractal weaves is performed.

Influence of polyester fabric structure on its blood-compatibility and biological mechanics performance

XU Haijun;ZHAO Guoliang;LIU Jingxia;WANG Xiaochun;WANG Sheng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  55-58. 

Abstract ( 1332 )   PDF (265KB) ( 497 )   Save

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The effect of different polyester fabric structures(plain,twill and satin of the woven,jersey and interlock of the knitted) on the blood-compatibility of the fabric was studied by kinetic clotting,blood-coagulation factor and platelet adhesion experiments.The mathematical model of fuzzy comprehensive evaluation was used to characterize the total blood-compatibility.The experimental results indicated that the satin woven is not easy to cause the blood-coagulation and has better blood-compatibility.Meanwhile,the biological mechanics performance of different polyester fabric structures was characterized by permeability, void content,tensile strength,and bursting strength and so forth.The influence of fabric structure on its blood-compatibility and biological mechanics performance was discussed preliminarily.

Influence of the regenerated keratin fiber content on multicomponent mixture fabric wearing characteristics

JING Miaolei;WANG Jiankun;LIN Wei

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  59-62. 

Abstract ( 937 )   PDF (114KB) ( 434 )   Save

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This paper uses regenerated keratin fiber/cotton blended yarn with different blending ratios for interweaving with polyester/cotton blended yarn,designs the cotton type mixture fabric of leisure style,and analyses the influence of regenerated keratin fiber content on the fabric style and wearing characteristics.Regression mode is established based on the relations between wearing characteristics of single item and blending ratio.Measured data indicates that a remarkable correlation exists between the regenerated keratin fiber content and abrasion resistance,crease recovery,draping,bending rigidity,air permeability of mixture fabric.The fabric with the blending ratio of the regenerated keratin fiber to cotton at about 60∶40 exhibits excellent performance in all items.The paper provides a theoretical basis for designing the regenerated keratin fiber mixture fabric.

Application of an image segmentation algorithm in pattern auto-recognition

WAN Yongjing;WAN Guangkui

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  63-65. 

Abstract ( 1188 )   PDF (133KB) ( 377 )   Save

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Aiming at the problem of pattern auto-recognition of jacquard fur sample scanning image,an improved fuzzy C-means clustering image segmentation algorithm based on spatial information is proposed.The distance between the pixel and the clustering center is modified by using the coarseness degree of the neighbor field and the value of the pixel,and the fuzzy membership function of the pixel is modified.The reasonable clustering center is gained by iterative calculation using modified fuzzy membership function.After several experiments of jacquard fur sample scanning image segmentation,it is indicated that the algorithm has the advantage of less sensitive to noise and it can get preferable recognition results when recognizing the pattern of jacquard fur sample scanning image.

Effect of illuminating source and illumination on the signal features of fabric defects

LUO Yiping;WANG Yaming;ZHOU Ping;XU Jianlong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  66-69. 

Abstract ( 1194 )   PDF (144KB) ( 390 )   Save

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The aim of the study is to investigate the influence of illuminating source and lighting environment on fabric images collected.Based on optical characters of fabric such as reflection,spectrum and colour saturation,the effects of several kinds of illuminating source such as LED,halogen lamp and fluorescent lamp,lighting environment and parameters on fabric images were analyzed.The methods of energy,variance,entropy,limit deviation and contrast were used to study the features of extraction of fabric image.Their optimal parameters of illumination for enhancement of fabric defect signal were analyzed.The experimental results show that enhancement of fabric defect signal varies with illuminating source and illumination.The respond and difference for defect signal feature are obvious under different illuminations,thereby the best illumination parameter for extraction of defect signal can be obtained.

Stiffness optimization of 3-D braided composites with micromechanical method

SUN Ying;LI Jialu;KANG Yilan;CHEN Li

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  70-73. 

Abstract ( 881 )   PDF (122KB) ( 393 )   Save

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To realize the tailor ability of 3-D braided composites for applications,the microstructure parameters of 3-D braided composites are optimized to meet the need of macro stiffness property based on the micromechanics methodology.The truss model of unit cell is developed based on non-continuum mechanics,and finite element method is utilized to predict the effective elastic modulus of composites.With weight minimum and stiffness requirements as the objective,the genetic algorithm is used in the optimization of microstructure parameters of the composites.The comparisons between the computational and experimental results show that the combination of the truss model of unit cell and genetic algorithm can easily find out optimal microstructure parameters to satisfy the elastic requirements of 3-D braided composites.Here the microstructure parameters include the yarn linear density and the pitch length.

染整与化学品

Factors influencing retting of ramie with enzymes in SC-CO₂

PENG Yuande;TANG Shouwei;YANG Xi′ai;YAN Li;LIU Zhaotie;XIONG Heping

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  74-76. 

Abstract ( 1152 )   PDF (122KB) ( 518 )   Save

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To determine the technical process and parameters of retting of ramie with enzymes in SC-CO₂some main environmental factors which can change the activities of pectinase and xylase are studied.The test shows that the optimal conditions for this enzymatic reaction in SC-CO₂are 45～50 ℃,8 MPa of the pressure of CO₂ pH 5～6.5,90 r/min and treatment duration of 1.5～2.0 h.Compared with traditional chemical retting,the enzymatic retting has the advantages of high fiber yield(increased by 14.3%) and good quality of single-fiber strength(increased by 10.5%).

Influence of copolymer composition on the adhesion of P(AM-co-AA) sizes

ZHU Zhifeng;CHAI Yan;LIU Qikai

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  77-78. 

Abstract ( 1031 )   PDF (113KB) ( 513 )   Save

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The influences of copolymer composition on the adhesion of polyacrylic sizes to polyester/cotton yarn are investigated by an impregnated roving method for warp sizing.The adhesion is evaluated in terms of the maximum strength,breaking elongation and work to break of a slightly sized roving.The polyacrylic sizes investigated include biopolymer of P(AM-co-AA) and homopolymers of PAA and PAM.The polymeric sizes were prepared through the polymerization of their corresponding monomers by free radical initiator.It was found that the adhesion of the polymeric sizes to the fibers is strongly depends on the type and amount of the structural units incorporated into the copolymer chains.The adhesion of the biopolymer sizes with appropriate ratio of AM to AA units on the fibers is superior to the homopolymers of PAM and PAA.

Method of extracting the mulberry leaves′ dye-liquid and its dyeing behavior

DENG Yimin;ZHANG Gaojun;LIU Min

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  80-83. 

Abstract ( 1141 )   PDF (106KB) ( 462 )   Save

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To explore the method of extracting dyeing liquid from mulberry leaves and the effect of extracting agents on the dyeing silk fabric with the dye liquid,the boiling water bath and microwave technique were employed to carry out mulberry leaves dye liquor extraction with different extracting agents.The dyeuptake on the silk fabrics and flavones content were higher with the mulberry leaves dye liquid extracted by microwave than those by boiling.The influence of extracting agents used in the microwave technique on the dye-uptake and shade of the dyed fabric was investigated through orthogonal experiments.The results indicated that the order of effective factors on dye-uptake is surfactant dosage>NaOH concentration>types of surfactant,and the influence on fabric shades is NaOH concentration> surfactant dosage and types of surfactant.The best dyeing result has been obtained with the mulberry leaves dye liquid extracted by microwave technique with NaOH extracting agent incorporated with surfactant.

Probe into the impact of enzymatic treatment on the fineness of natural bamboo fibers

LOU Liqin;XU Pinghui;CHEN Bo;REN Weiwei

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  84-88. 

Abstract ( 955 )   PDF (127KB) ( 557 )   Save

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To probe into the effective methods to make the natural bamboo fiber finer with enzymatic treatment,the manufactured natural bamboo fibers were treated with laccase,scouring enzyme,and scouring enzyme +laccase(a two step method) respectively according to the design by means of orthogonal experiment.The change rate of fineness,tensile strength and the content of lignin of the treated fibers were tested and compared.The results show that in terms of lignin removal,scouring enzyme is better than laccase,whereas the two step method is the best.After two step treatment,the change rate of fineness of natural bamboo fibers has achieved 51.33% and the content of lignin is decreased from 18.98% to 5.49%.

Effect of softeners on the durable press finishing of cotton fabric with BTCA

LOU Weidong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  89-91. 

Abstract ( 953 )   PDF (151KB) ( 633 )   Save

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For improving the durable press performance of BTCA finished cotton fabric,the reactive aminosilicon-based and polyethylene-based softeners were selected as additives to compare their effects on the performance of cotton fabric finished with BTCA.The results showed that the improvement of wrinkle recovery angle of fabric finished with BTCA/aminosilicon softener was better than that finished with BTCA/ polyethylene softener,however,its negative impact to the tensile strength of the finished fabric was a little bit bigger and also the improvement of flex abrasion resistance was less.The data also indicated that,although the softeners could improve the durable press performance of the fabric and the effect could be retained during home laundering,the resistance to hydrolysis of ester bond was not improved by the addition of the softeners.

Effects of cationic modification on non-formaldehyde durable press finished cotton fabric

YANG Hongrui;HAO Longyun;CAI Yuqing;FANG Kuanjun

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  92-95. 

Abstract ( 1094 )   PDF (180KB) ( 523 )   Save

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In order to improve the properties of durable press finished cotton fabric,cationic modification of the cotton fabric was performed and modification reaction on the cotton was confirmed by infrared analysis.The optimal process of cationic modification of cotton fabric was investigated,which could improve the dyeability of durable press treated cotton fabric without affecting its wrinkle resistance.The wrinkle recovery angle,strength,dyeability with pigment and direct dyes of the cotton fabric were tested.The results indicated that the cotton fabric after cationic modification has the wrinkle recovery angle improved,less strength loss,and better washing fastness.The dyeability of the non-formaldehyde durable press finished cotton fabric after cationic modification was improved significantly,especially with pigment dyeing.

Preparation of nano-scale TiO₂coated fabrics and their formaldehyde degrading effect

XU Yang;WEI Qufu;WANG Yingying;HUANG Fenglin;SUN Lei

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  96-99. 

Abstract ( 1098 )   PDF (193KB) ( 719 )   Save

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In order to enhance the adsorption and filtration activity of textile on removing formaldehyde,nano-scale titanium dioxide TiO₂functional films were deposited on the surface of cotton fabric and polyester fabric by RF magnetron sputter coating process.The surface microstructure and morphology were characterized by scanning electron microscope(SEM) and X-ray diffraction(XRD).The photocatalytic degradation of formaldehyde of the two kinds of coated fabrics was also compared.The results showed that the morphology of TiO₂ functional film on the cotton fabric was quite dissimilar to that on the polyester fabric at the same process conditions.Also,nano-scale TiO₂ coated cotton fabric was superior to nano-scale TiO₂ coated polyester fabric in terms of formaldehyde removal efficiency.

服装工程

Pattern factors affecting the lapel fitness of suits

ZHOU Li;ZHANG Ling;LI Yanyun

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  100-103. 

Abstract ( 1272 )   PDF (349KB) ( 511 )   Save

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This paper is devoted to researching on the turndown lapel collar of suits.The AT-style pattern technology and high end men′s suit manufacture craft are adopted to investigate the pattern factors affecting the lapel fitness of suits,the rising quantity of under line of the collar stand through the experiments of fitting the mannequin′s neck to lapel.Analytical comparison of the lapel fitness is performed in terms of front neck and back neck,etc.Data for evaluation of lapel fitness is collected with the back neck point as starting point,the rising quantity as X axis,and the distance from the turn-over line to the central line of back neck as Y axis.The study showed that a non-linear quantitative relationship exists between the rising quantity of under line and the fitness.

Development of the evaluation scale of perceptual comfort of clothing

WANG Yunyi;WANG Xiaoqiong;LI Jun;ZHANG Xuefeng;CHEN Yisong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  104-108. 

Abstract ( 1018 )   PDF (137KB) ( 563 )   Save

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According to ″acceptperceptionreaction″ of the human being in the system of ″humanclothing environment″,an evaluation scale system of perceptual comfort of clothing was developed based on the phrases expressing different degrees of comfort from trial wearers in a survey.With this evaluation scale system,the perceptual comfort of each wearer to a garment sample could be indicated in scale and this facilitates data analysis.The experiments of imaginary stimulation and factual stimulation were performed and the correlation of stimulation frequency and the sensibility of the wearer in each case were analyzed.The results show that the newly developed evaluation scale system of perceptual comfort has the features of good sensibility,practicality and reliability.

Analysis of modern times western and eastern costumes interchange based on missionary schools in Shandong province

WEI Na;CUI Rongrong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  109-112. 

Abstract ( 1176 )   PDF (151KB) ( 442 )   Save

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The modern times of China was a special historical period during which exchange of views and cultures were unprecedented prosperous and the social and economic transformation along with the influence of foreign culture and arts promoted the historical change of the traditional ideas and living style,ushering in the exchange and mergence of the east and west.The study on this period is beneficial to restoring the original appearance of the clothing people wore and to the transfer and inheritance of culture.Making use of enumeration,comparison and statistics methods,this paper makes an analysis of the students′ wear in missionary schools in Shandong in modern times and its influence,and expounds how and why both western and eastern costumes were popular in Shandong.They possessed of rich Qilu culture and western costume elements and aesthetics.

机械与器材

Analysis of deflection of needle-selecting actuator based on piezoelectric bimorph

YUAN Yanhong;QI Lingling;FANG Zhibin

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  113-116. 

Abstract ( 1323 )   PDF (129KB) ( 764 )   Save

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The deflection property of piezoelectric ceramics needle-selecting actuator of jacquard is a key parameter in the design of its structure and control system.Based on the basic structure of jacquard′s needle selecting actuator with bimorph,the cantilever beam model with bimorph cells sticking on both sides is considered.The actuator deformation is analyzed using finite element method(FEM) regarding the process to solve piezoelectric issue.The influence of the middle elastic beam and the nature of piezoelectric layer on the deflection actuator is studied,and the correlation of the applied voltage,elastic modulus of the beam,and thickness of piezoelectric layer is analyzed quantitatively,thus providing a theoretical basis and design method for the selection and application of needle-selecting actuator.Furthermore,experiment results show that the piezoelectric bimorph used as needle selecting actuator is feasible and effective.

Development of the temperature and humidity instrument for clothing measurement based on virtual instrument

CHEN Yisong;YANG Kai;ZHANG Weiyuan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  117-121. 

Abstract ( 1033 )   PDF (188KB) ( 582 )   Save

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Temperature and relative humidity are two important parameters in research of thermal and moisture comfort properties of clothes,and making accurate and real-time measuring of them is a practical technology.This article introduces the temperature and humidity measuring instrument which is developed on NI virtual instrument technology and LabVIEW software.This instrument has many functions,such as multi-channel signals input,real-time data acquiring and processing,graphical display,file preservation,and overrun alarming.This instrument can be used in thermal-moisture comfort measurement of clothes and some other relative fields,which is flexible,versatile and obtains good results in experiments.

Development of the buoyancy testing instrument

DAI Xuemei;WANG Baozhong;GU Ping

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  122-124. 

Abstract ( 1106 )   PDF (99KB) ( 782 )   Save

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This paper introduces a new type buoyancy testing instrument and its components,operating principle,data collection and processing by computer and testing results in respect of its accuracy,stability and sensitivity.The instrument is composed of the weigh sensor in form of electric resistance strain gage,weigh digital display instrument and computer data processing software.It adopts overhang buoyancy testing design ways,which can collect buoyancy signals at real time on long time basis and record the changing processes of buoyancy.The instrument′s relative error is less than 3%;sensitivity reaches 0.1 N,so the instrument takes on very high stability.The instrument can meet different testing requirements of various floatation materials.At the same time,it can also apply to high precision requirements in scientific research,for instance,it can analyze influencing factors of buoyancy decline etc.

管理与信息化

Technological innovation and upgrading of China′s textile industry

LI Lingshen;GU Qingliang;ZHU Xiusen

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(5):  125-128. 

Abstract ( 935 )   PDF (115KB) ( 568 )   Save

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Extensive literature regarding studies on technological innovation and industry upgrading are available both at home and abroad,but they are discussed as two topics independently and few researches are devoted to their correlation.Although many studies on technological innovation imply the conclusion of industry upgrading and many studies on industry upgrading also imply suggestions of technological innovation,we can hardly find any study on the correlation of the two using theoretical analysis and practical examples.Having analyzed the optimized A-U model and reviewed the study methods of technological innovation and industry upgrading,this paper makes a research on the technological innovation and industry upgrading of China′s textile industry,demonstrating practical examples.Further research needed to be done on this aspect is also suggested from an economic standpoint.