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Table of Content

    15 April 2007, Volume 28 Issue 4
    • 纤维材料
      Carbonization of electrospun polyacrylonitrile nanofiber web
      YANG Enlong;QIN Xiaohong;LI Ni;ZHAO Congtao;WANG Shanyuan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  1-4. 
      Abstract ( 989 )   PDF (168KB) ( 471 )   Save
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      Polyacrylonitrile(PAN) nanofibers were manufactured by electrospinning,and then preoxidized at(250 ℃) and carbonized at 850 ℃,thus obtained carbon nanofibers.The morphology of electrospun nanofibers,preoxidized nanofibers and carbon nanofibers was studied by scanning electron microscope(SEM),and their tensile and elongation,and conductivity were compared.It was found that the conductivity of the carbon nanofibers enhanced significantly.Characterization of the microstructure of PAN powder,electrospun nanofibers,preoxidized nanofibers and carbon nanofibers was performed by X-ray diffractometry and infrared spectroscopy.
      Preparation and catalytic performance of catalytic fibers
      YAO Yuyuan;CHEN Wenxing;L Sufang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  5-7. 
      Abstract ( 879 )   PDF (109KB) ( 459 )   Save
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      Cobalt tetra(N-carbonylacrylic) aminophthalocyanine was formed on the surface of cellulose fibers by graft copolymerization and a novel polymer catalyst,catalytic fibers(CoPcF) was thus obtained.The effects of pH and concentration of 2-mercaptoethanol on the catalytic oxidation activity of CoPcF towards oxidation 2-mercaptoethanol in aqueous solution were investigated.The experimental results demonstrated that the catalytic effect of CoPcF on of 2-mercaptoethanol is the best when pH=11,and it increases with the increasing of the concentration of 2-mercaptoethanol.Therefore,CoPcF has good catalytic oxidation activity on 2-mercaptoethanol at room temperature,and CoPcF is recyclable and it will not cause any secondary pollution.
      Effect of surfactants on deoiling of waste silk by bacteria
      YANG Xuexia;HE Zhaojun;LAO Jihong;XU Kecheng;CHEN Hui;HAN Duoying
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  8-11. 
      Abstract ( 1024 )   PDF (143KB) ( 460 )   Save
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      The effect of eight selected surfactants on the growth of bacterium strain X_8 and the deoiling effect of strain X_8 from frigon was studied.The results showed that most of the selected surfactants inhibited the growth of the strain X_8.When the concentration of SDS was less than(0.5 g/L,) it had slight effect on the growth of the strain X_8.Addition of(0.5 g/L) SDS in deoiling of frigon by the strain X_8 enhanced the oil-removing effect and the production of lipase. The residual oil content was(11.36%) when the treatment was performed only by(0.5 g/L) SDS and(17.4%) oil was removed;the residual oil content was(7.53%) when the treatment was carried out only by fermentation and(45.3%) oil was removed;the residual oil content was(3.62%) when the treatment was undertaken by fermentation plus addition of(0.5 g/L) SDS and(73.7%) oil was removed.The activity of lipase with and without SDS in the fermentation system was(451 IU/L) and(344 IU/L) respectively.This indicated that deoiling effect was enhanced by washing and promoting lipase production in the fermentation system with addition of proper amount of SDS.
      Study on blending modification of superabsorbent poly(acrylic acid-co-acrylamide) fibers
      DING Yuanrong;XIAO Changfa;JIA Guangxia;AN Shulin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  12-15. 
      Abstract ( 1003 )   PDF (147KB) ( 439 )   Save
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      Modified by blending with organic or inorganic substances,superabsorbent poly(acrylic acid-co-acrylamide) fibers were prepared.The effect of added components on the morphology,thermal properties and water?-absorptive capacity of the modified fibers were discussed in detail.The results show that the glass transition temperature of fibers blended with PVA was lowered and the fibers became more flexible,and that the absorptive speed and the equilibrium amount of water absorbency of sepiolite-filled fibers were increased obviously.
      Preparation and property of anionic polyester fiber
      QIAN Jianhua;SUN Fu;LING Ronggen
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  16-18. 
      Abstract ( 1131 )   PDF (110KB) ( 552 )   Save
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      A preparation method of anionic polyester fiber was researched.Polyester chips were crystallized,dried up,and grinded into powder,and then mixed with dispersant and anionic powder whose surface has been modified.The mixed powder was extruded and chipped,thus obtained the anionic polyester chips which were used as sheath,and ordinary PET as core,sheath-core bi-composite fibers were made.It indicated by testing that the chips containing 4 percent anionic powder have excellent spinnability.This sheath-core bi-composite fiber has good serviceability and capacity of releasing anion.
      Preparation of flame retardant cellulose fibers using carbamate
      CHENG Bowen;REN Yuanlin;KANG Weimin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  19-21. 
      Abstract ( 1189 )   PDF (103KB) ( 485 )   Save
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      The flame retardant cellulose fibers were spun by an eco-friendly process,i.e.,adding certain P-N containing flame retardants,1,2-bis(2-oxo-5,5-dimethyl-1,3,2-dioxyphosphacyclohexy1-2-imino)ethane(DDPN) and N,N′-bis(5,5-dimethyl-2-phospha-2-thio-1,3-dioxan-2-yl) ethylene diamine(DDPSN) to the carbamate solution,and the mechanical and flame retardant properties of the prepared cellulose fibers were studied.The results show that the dry tenacity is less than that of viscose fiber,but wet tenacity and wet modulus of the polyblend fibers are slightly higher than those of viscose fibers.When the mass fraction of this kind of retardants in the cellulose fibers is larger than 18% and the limiting oxygen index(LOI) of the polyblend flame retardant cellulose fibers is larger than 25%,the fibers meet the flame retardant requirements.
      Properties of floss silk with high elasticity and warmth retention
      FENG Zhihong;ZHU Liangjun;MIN Sijia;CAI jie;L Jie
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  22-25. 
      Abstract ( 915 )   PDF (108KB) ( 485 )   Save
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      A high performance floss silk was prepared by means of combination treatments of lye,extra high temperature and softener prepared by researchers themselves.Concentrations of lye and softener,treating time under extra high temperature and treating time with softener were used as factors in orthogonal experiments and the data were analyzed by DPS.And it was found that these factors have no significant influence on the elastic recovery percentage of the floss silk,whereas the softener has significant influence on its compression ratio and oil content.The elastic recovery percentage of the treated floss silk is 92.37%~97.66% and the compression ratio,59.21%~66.77%,both are superior to the criteria set by the textile industry for the superfine wadding floss silk.Its oil content is 0.28%~1.39%.The average warmth retention rate is 81.91%~85.24% and average thermal transmittance coefficient,21.37~(27.13 W/(m~2·℃).) Treatment with extra high temperature steam is beneficial to the elasticity and loftiness of floss silk.Suitable processing techniques for floss silk are given.
      Chemical degumming technology of raw bamboo fibers
      WANG Chunhong;WANG Rui;YU Fei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  26-29. 
      Abstract ( 1220 )   PDF (123KB) ( 598 )   Save
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      Raw bamboo fibers used for non-woven and composite industries were prepared by means of swelling,acid & alkali treatments and softening treatment,in which,the four parameters of acid & alkali treatments were optimized,namely concentration,temperature,duration of treatment and bath ratio.The longitudinal directions of the fibers were examined by scanning electron microscopy(SEM),and the tensile strength of the fibers were tested and evaluated so as to determine the optimal process.The results reveal that concentration of the acid & alkali treatments has the greatest influence on the tensile property of the fibers.When the acid & alkali concentrations are(1.5 g/L) and(8 g/L) respectively,the tensile strength of the fibers attains a peak at(5.5 cN/dtex,) which is increased by nearly 27 times than that of the fibers before treatment,and the softness increases by one time.Therefore,the fibers can be carded into uniform fiber webs.
      纺织工程
      Anti-felting properties of wool/low melting point bi-component sheath-core fiber blended fabrics
      ZHANG Xuhui;ZHAO Guoliang;YIN Ruixian
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  30-33. 
      Abstract ( 1505 )   PDF (185KB) ( 487 )   Save
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      A low melting point bi-component sheath-core fiber(ES fiber) was used to blend with wool at different blend ratios and then the blended fabrics were treated by thermo setting and non-thermosetting processes respectively.Electron scanning microscope(SEM) was used to observe the bonding inside the fiber,yarn and fabric after thermosetting treatment,and the maximum bonding force between ES fiber and wool,shrinkage of the yarn,and the shrinkage of the fabric after washing were tested.The results showed that the wool fabrics containing ES fiber have better anti-felting properties after thermosetting.The shrinkage percentage of the wool/ES fiber blended fabrics meets the criterion of IWS TM31 for washable assessment.
      Discussion over some issues on structure design of ramie fabric
      LI Lijun;CUI Hongjun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  34-37. 
      Abstract ( 1220 )   PDF (111KB) ( 496 )   Save
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      To ameliorate the prodding and itching feeling of ramie fabric and improve its wearability,this paper analyses the causes leading itchiness,and investigates the design of ramie fabrics in terms of selection of fabric weave and structure,and determination of fabric count and tightness.It establishes a formula for calculating the possible range of density of warp for a ramie fabric with non-tight structure,providing a theoretical basis for rational design of ramie fabric.The result shows that with different kinds of yarn and density of fabric,as long as structure parameters like fabric structural phase,warp and weft density and tightness are properly chosen,bending of fiber and yarn is reduced so that sources of itchiness are reduced.
      Warmth retention property of kapok range of wadding
      TAN Liping;WANG Fumei;LIU Wei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  38-40. 
      Abstract ( 911 )   PDF (123KB) ( 634 )   Save
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      Kapok is a kind of natural fiber with void content more than 85%,very suitable for thermal insulation material.However,because of its′ low tensile strength and compressional resiliency,the traditional kapok wadding is losing its market share.The newly developed kapok wadding by unique technique has overcome the above shortcomings.In order to gain further understanding of the comprehensive properties of the kapok wadding,a comparative study of static thermal resistance and convection heat transfer of kapok wadding and other fibers wadding is conducted,and it is found that in terms of warmth retention property,kapok is only second to the feather and obviously superior to 4-or 7-hollow polyester fiber wadding and spray-bonded nonwoven fabric.When compared with manufactured fibers wadding,kapok wadding has compact and tiny voids,making it have lower convection heat transfer and higher thermal transmittance resistance.
      Application of gray system theory in evaluation of thermal and moisture comfort of bast fiber fabrics
      KONG Lingjian;YAN Xiong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  41-44. 
      Abstract ( 1054 )   PDF (116KB) ( 363 )   Save
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      Use of gray system theory in evaluation of thermal and moisture comfort of bast fiber fabric is introduced.The thermal transmittance,air permeability,moisture vapor transmission(MVT),and hygroscopicity of bast fiber fabric with different specifications are tested,and their thermal and moisture transmitting properties are compared with those of silk fabrics through gray correlation analysis and the thermal and moisture transmitting properties of the summer bast fiber fabrics are listed in the order from good to bad,thus providing a theoretical basis for investigation of thermal and moisture comfort of fabric.The experimental results show that the influence of fabric thickness and tightness on MVT varies with humidity.In low humidity,fabric tightness is more important than thickness,and vice versa in high humididy.
      Mathematical expression of variable layers weave of the multilayer woven fabric
      MA Hui;WANG Jintang;ZHOU Luoqing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  45-47. 
      Abstract ( 967 )   PDF (127KB) ( 408 )   Save
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      To adapt to the development of modern digital spinning,after making analysis and comparison of the commonly used expression ways of variable layers weave of the woven fabric,a new mathematic expression of it is put forward.It is composed of layers array and warp position code array,i.e.,the weave is expressed by digital form,which is characterized by simplicity,information technology,and easy operation.Based on this expression,a corresponding method of drafting which has direct correlation with the expression and easy to be computerized is presented,providing a mathematic way for drafting of variable layer weave of any number of layers of the woven fabric.This method has practical application value for CAD of variable layer of the multilayer woven fabric.
      Principle and method of weave design for woven fabrics using digital technology
      ZHOU Jiu;Frankie Ng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  48-51. 
      Abstract ( 1171 )   PDF (273KB) ( 463 )   Save
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      After analyzing the construction features,in particular,the characteristics of weave design,of the woven fabric,an innovative principle and method of weave design were presented based on digital design technologies.This method adopts holography to design the entire weave and develop relevant database of fabric weaves in place of the traditional single-weave design mode.The desired weave in the weave-database can be extracted and used to substitute for any undesired weave structure of the fabric for changing the texture effect without interfering the balance of the fabric.On analysis of the balanced fabric in which the warp and filling have similar numbers of ends and picks per inch that are of equal size and character,the designed woven fabrics by this technology can meet the requirement of large scale production.The digital design technology facilitates the innovative design of the woven fabric,especially digital jacquard design in a layered combination mode.
      Acoustic emission analysis of the flexural and tensile properties of 3-D braided composite materials
      WAN Zhenkai
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  52-55. 
      Abstract ( 848 )   PDF (137KB) ( 466 )   Save
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      This paper discusses the application and experimental method of acoustic emission(AE) for characterizing 3-D braided composite material under tensile and flexural fatigue loading.It describes the features of acoustic emission when applied to 3-D braided composite material under tensile and flexural fatigue loading.The results of tension experiment show the stress-strain curve exhibits linear relation for 3-D braided composite material with smaller surface braided angle and the tensile failure presents brittleness feature.When the surface braided angle is bigger,the stress-strain curve shows bilinear relation and tensile failure presents brittleness damage,respectively.The results of flexural experiment show load-deflection curve is linear relation for 3-D braided composite material with smaller surface braided angle,while the load-deflection curve is non-linear relation with bigger surface braided angle.
      Analysis of the forced vibration of the fabric moving in machine direction
      CHEN Jinping;WANG Shengze;WU Wenying
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  56-59. 
      Abstract ( 888 )   PDF (208KB) ( 341 )   Save
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      The dynamic behavior of the fabric is rather complex when it moves in machine direction during weaving,dyeing or finishing.While running at high speed,the fabric vibrates,which has great influence on the fabric itself and on the performance of machine.Therefore,the dynamics characteristics of the fabric moving in machine direction are investigated.Firstly,the principle of D′Alembert is used to develop its dynamics model and then theoretical analysis is conducted of both the free and forced vibrations of the fabric moving in machine direction.Secondly,a formula is introduced for calculating the natural frequencies and critical velocity of the fabric for prevention of sympathetic vibration.The basic types of vibration and vibration shapes of fabric are also analyzed.Findings presented in this study have practical significance in guiding production.
      染整与化学品
      Synthesis of new glucosamide surfactant
      WANG Shijin;LIU Zhendong;YU Jiaxian;GUO Bianling
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  60-63. 
      Abstract ( 1040 )   PDF (146KB) ( 391 )   Save
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      Amido alkyl imidazoline was synthesized by the reaction of stearic acid and excess diethylene triamine(mol ratio1:0.53) in 92.1% yield of pure product after recrystallization.The imidazoline obtained was followed by a directional reductive ring-opening reaction with sodium borohydride to yield the intermediate amine compound in 86.9% yield,and then the ring-opening product was reacted with D-(+)-glucono-δ-lactone,thus a novel polyamide surfactant with a sugar moiety and double hydrophobic long chains was obtained in 80.2% yield.The structure of products and intermediates were characterized with IR Spectroscopy and ESI-MS.The procedure of this method is simple,efficient and easy to control.The drapability coefficiency of cotton fabric finished by this surfactant was 54.25%,while that of the unfinished fabric was 62.25%.
      HPLC study of the bonding of MCT reactive dye with silk fiber
      WANG Haifeng;CHEN Jiancun;YANG Jingxin;ZHANG Ruiping;SHAO Jianzhong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  64-68. 
      Abstract ( 1007 )   PDF (234KB) ( 443 )   Save
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      HPLC was adopted to perform a quantitative research on the bonding of MCT reactive dye with silk fiber which was simulated by tyrosine,and their bonding mechanism was investigated.The bonding of reactive dye with tyrosine at different temperatures and different pH values was examined through testing the hydrolysate of the reactive dye and ionization chromatogram peak area of tyrosine. It shows that there is a linear relation between the hydrolyzing ratio of reactive dye and HPLC peak area.The reaction degree of reactive dyes with tyrosine is related with both ionization degree of tyrosine and non-hydrolyzed dyes.When pH value is 9.5,temperature is(85 ℃,)the strongest bonding between Reactive Red K-2BP and tyrosine is achieved.
      Effects of quaternary ammonium modification on the performance of carboxymethyl starch (CMS)
      LIN Xiupei;ZHU Zhifeng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  69-72. 
      Abstract ( 1033 )   PDF (116KB) ( 401 )   Save
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      A series of starch samples with quaternary ammonium and carboxymethyl groups were prepared by varying the feed ratio of N-(3-chloro-2-hydroxyproply) trimethylammonium to starch.The influence of the modification extent on the paste viscosity,adhesion to polyester/cotton fibers,and film behaviors were studied by comparison tests.In order to reduce the dosage of PVA,the effects of the modified starch/PVA blends on the adhesion to polyester/cotton fibers were examined.The experiment results demonstrated that the viscosity of the modified starch increases as the degree of substitution(DS) of cationic groups increases.The modification can improve the adhesion of starch to polyester/cotton fibers,and the adhesion enhances as the DS increases.
      Application of laccase from Coriolus Versicolor in biofinishing of blue jeans
      GAO Enli;ZHANG Shujiang;XIA Liming;YU Weimin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  73-75. 
      Abstract ( 991 )   PDF (120KB) ( 492 )   Save
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      Reducing backstaining of blue jeans by the synergism of laccase and acid cellulase during the biofinishing was experimented.The finding indicated that only adding acid cellulase has achieved a good effect in the dehairing and decolorization of blue jeans during the biofinishing,but results in heavy indigobackstaining.In the presence of laccase,the degree of backstaining can be greatly decreased.The suitable synergistic washing time was(60 min) and when the amount of laccase was(5.0 g/kg)(o.w.f),the backstaining degree was reduced by 83%.The plant scale experiments demonstrated that the synergism of laccase and acid cellulase not only reduced the backstaining and imparted the blue jeans the unique ″snowflake″ effect,but also reduced the amount of indigo blue in wastewater by 80%,which was of great benefit to alleviating environment pollution.
      Influence of diffusibility of disperse dyes on color fastness
      HUO Ruiting;DONG Zhenli
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  76-79. 
      Abstract ( 1170 )   PDF (120KB) ( 587 )   Save
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      The influence of diffusibility of disperse dyes on color fastness to ironing,soaping and rubbing of both ordinary and superfine polyester fibers was studied by color measurement.The results show that the color fastness of disperse dyes to ironing and soaping deteriorates as the diffusion coefficient of dyes increases.There is a linear relationship on the whole between the fading extent(ΔE) of dyed fabric and the diffusion coefficient of disperse dyes in ironing.The staining extent of polyester fabric in soaping is not only determined by the diffusibility of dyes,but also affected by the affinity and the state of dyes in soaping bath.The diffusibility of disperse dyes has a more remarkable influence on color fastness to ironing and soaping of superfine polyester fiber.However,the diffusibility of disperse dyes has little influence on rubbing fastness provided that the unfixed dyestuff on fabric has been entirely removed.
      Printing pattern designing based on general Julia set
      ZHANG Yu;SHUAI Qinfen;FU Yueying
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  80-82. 
      Abstract ( 911 )   PDF (423KB) ( 398 )   Save
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      According to the characteristics of fabric printing patterns and visualization in scientific computing(ViSC),the principles to create the graphics of general Julia set which is in some high degree power and triangle function forms and the methods to control the graphics of general Julia set by varying parameters are studied.And on the basis of this,the ways for designing its printing patterns are investigated by graphical methods of computer and printing trials. It reveals that based on the principles to create the graphics of general Julia set it is feasible to present the visualization information on the fabric though printing by means of the computer visualization technology.This method is suitable for artistic design and presentation of printing patterns of silk scarves.
      Studies on mechanism of waterproof maintaining of PTFE laminated fabric
      GUO Yuhai;ZHANG Jianchun;HAO Xinmin;ZHANG Huapeng;CHEN Jianyong;HUANG Jizhi;FENG Xinxing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  83-86. 
      Abstract ( 1129 )   PDF (172KB) ( 407 )   Save
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      The application of PTFE membrane laminated fabric is limited owing to the decrease of its waterproof property after washing.In this paper,the adsorption property of PTFE membrane was analyzed by means of SEM,EDS and FTIR.The results show that the decrease of waterproof property of PTFE is attributed to its adsorption of surfactants in detergent.Thus,a new idea,PTFE/PU co-stretching process,was put forward,and the resulted material containing the compact PU film reduced the adsorption of surfactant remarkably and maintained good waterproof property.The water vapour permeability(WVP) of casting PU,PTFE and co-stretching PTFE/PU membranes were measured,and the results reveal that the water vapour transmitting process of PU decides the the water vapour transmittance rate of PTFE/PU and the WVP of co-stretching PTFE/PU membrane accords with dissolution-diffuse mechanism.
      服装工程
      Evaluation of wrinkles on the surface of a garment
      CHEN Weiwei;CHEN Yan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  87-89. 
      Abstract ( 1007 )   PDF (150KB) ( 559 )   Save
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      The forming principle of a wrinkle on the surface of a garment is analyzed,and adoption of image technology for extraction,processing,analysis and evaluation of garment wrinkle information is proposed.A blouse wearer trial is conducted so that the images of wrinkles developed on the surface of the blouse with different postures of the wearer are collected.The image processing technique is introduced and using the grey of images as basis,the data reflecting the wrinkles is extracted.After analyzing the data,the indexes for evaluating garment wrinkles such as the depth,width and number of wrinkles are presented.The feasibility of digital expression of wrinkle characteristics by means of image technique is discussed from theoretical and practical aspects.
      Study on pattern design of Chinese style sleeves
      WU Houlin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  91-94. 
      Abstract ( 961 )   PDF (422KB) ( 524 )   Save
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      The Chinese style sleeve is an indispensable in the sleeve form system.This paper makes a preliminary study of Chinese one-piece sleeve,an element of nationality trappings,expounds its structural characteristics,the principle of varying its designs and related methods,sums up its several innovative designs and moldings,including sloping shoulder,sloping sleeve,raglan,and multi-piece styles along with their application rules.It uses the concept of modern garment design and the fabricating methods to modify the traditional Chinese style one-piece sleeve,combining into it the cultural intension of the nationality trappings and obtaining diversified innovative designs.Let the culture of ancient national costume be in the service of the modern fashion.
      Analysis on the shirt size and production proportions of the middle and old aged men in urban districts in Zhejiang province
      WANG Lijun;YUAN Guanluo
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  95-99. 
      Abstract ( 1105 )   PDF (222KB) ( 482 )   Save
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      The measurements of the middle and old aged men in urban districts in Zhejiang were taken by body scanning,and the data were analyzed through multistatistics for the body and distribution characteristics.The results show that their waist,hip,neck girths were larger than the standard size in GB and many of them have large abdomen.Their forms are tending to the type A,B,C.At the same time,market survey was made and analytical comparison of the specifications of 8 brands of shirts and their production proportions on the market in urban districts in Zhejiang was carried out.On this basis, the size ranges and their production proportions for the ready-made shirts for the middle and old aged men were prepared for reference,that is,the production proportion of shirts between neck sizes of 40~(45 cm) and 46~(50 cm) is 5∶2,and for body forms Y,A,B,C,that is 2∶7∶16∶10.
      机械与器材
      Development of on-line measurement system for size concentration by ultrasonic technology
      GUO Zishan;GUO Jiansheng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  100-106. 
      Abstract ( 1028 )   PDF (121KB) ( 365 )   Save
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      An on-line measurement system for size concentration by ultrasonic technology is introduced.According to the principle of ultrasonic measurement,the system is made of ultrasonic measurement device,interface unit and computer.The signal of transit time,which is detected by ultrasonic measurement device,is inputted into the computer through the interface unit,and is processed by the LabVIEW application software.At the same time,it makes use of function relationship,which describes the relationship between size concentration and transit time of ultrasonic,gets the real-time size concentration by calculation,and displays it on the screen of the computer.It is proved by comparison with the oven dry method that the error of the size concentration detected by this on-line measurement system using ultrasonic technology is lower than 0.5%.
      Modification of let-off mechanism of towel rapier loom GA799-Ⅰ
      HU Fengxia;GUO Xiaobao;ZHANG Jian;DING Zijun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  107-110. 
      Abstract ( 1179 )   PDF (109KB) ( 415 )   Save
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      Towel rapier loom GA799-Ⅰ changes weft density by intermittent take-up formed from separation and association of electromagnetic clutch.But the defects of GA799-Ⅰ are such that the length of satin section and the weft density are not coincident with the design parameters.By using chain driving and gear driving, the design solves the technical problem,and changes the design of the length of satin section from 30~(50 mm) to 300~(500 mm.) This design provides a theoretical basis for those enterprises manufacturing products of the same kind.
      Design of anti-interference for electrical control system of knitting machine
      WANG Mulan;ZHU Hao;ZUO Jianmin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  111-115. 
      Abstract ( 1148 )   PDF (205KB) ( 552 )   Save
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      To solve the problem of poor reliability of the knitting machine,which results from the operating characteristics of its electrical control system including the strict logic sequence,severe interference of electromagnet,reliable grounding requirement and very long working time,a new design of anti-interference is put forward accordingly based on analyzing the types and origin of interference in the control system.In this design,the AC filter and TVS are used to reduce the power interference,and the photoelectric coupler,releasing-current diode and spark-extinguisher are added to prevent the electromagnets and relays from producing interference.FPGA/CPLD can guard the punctual operating time of all electromagnets.The right grounding system insures safe operation of knitting machine.The watchdog technology and reliable design concept improve the anti-interference ability of the control software.The above proposed methods are synthetically applied to the electrical control system of glove knitting machine,and the practical application indicates that good anti-interference result is achieved.
      DCS of multi-drive variable frequency adjusting speed synchronization system for weaving and dyeing machines
      PAN Xianggao;LI Xiaofeng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  116-120. 
      Abstract ( 1075 )   PDF (324KB) ( 441 )   Save
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      The traditional multi-drive synchronous control system for weaving and dyeing machines has such drawbacks as inconvenient in operation and management,high fault rate,and great maintenance workload that give negative impact on production.For this reason,after studying the principles and methods of variable frequency adjusting speed synchronization of several kinds of multi-drive system,a new scheme using the RS-485 control bus to realize multi-drive variable frequency adjusting speed synchronization system is proposed and the DCS which is based on MCGS are designed for it.The results indicate that the structure of synchronization drive control system is simplified greatly,the equipment costs are reduced and the reliability and management level are improved significantly.
      管理与信息化
      Sale and allocation management system based on Multi-Agent technology in clothing enterprise
      LIN Zuwei;FANG Jianbin;SONG Zhihuan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  121-124. 
      Abstract ( 1167 )   PDF (155KB) ( 476 )   Save
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      In order to enhance the efficiency of software programming for the sales and allocation management system,and in accordance with the complex and fussy features of enterprise business process,a method is proposed that constructs the sales and allocation management system based on Multi-Agent technology.It first analyzes the enterprise business process of sales and allocation,and then the hierarchal structure of sales and allocation management system based on multi-agent in clothing enterprise is gained.The paper illustrates the function of each Agent and the collaboration between Agents.Finally,the realization of this system is given with an application case.In virtue of Multi-Agent technology,the capability of the system is enhanced in the aspects of intelligence and transplant.
      综合述评
      Status quo of research on grafting methods for poly(N-isopropylacrylamide) materials
      ZHANG Fang;LIU Jinqiang;FAN Qinguo
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(4):  125-128. 
      Abstract ( 865 )   PDF (118KB) ( 343 )   Save
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      Poly(N-isopropylacrylamide)(PNIPAAM) is a new type of thermo-sensitive polymer which is an area of extensive study and gaining rapid development nowadays.However,the low intensity of PNIPAAM restricts its application fields seriously.To remedy this deficiency,grafting PNIPAAM to other macromolecule materials with better physical property becomes a feasible method.Meanwhile,the macromolecule materials will be endowed with some special properties after grafting.This reviews the present researches working on the grafting methods of N-isopropylacrylamide including radiation grafting,solution free radical grafting,photo-induced grafting,and low temperature plasma grafting.