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Table of Content

    15 December 2007, Volume 28 Issue 12
    • 纤维材料
      Effect of surface oxidation of carbon fibers on its TiO_2 support
      JIN Xudong;FU Yaqin;NI Qingqing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  1-4. 
      Abstract ( 1190 )   PDF (139KB) ( 402 )   Save
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      The photocatalytic materials were synthesized with PAN-based carbon fibers as the support of TiO2.The carbon fibers were oxidized in 65%-68% nitric acid((115 ℃),) and the TiO2 was supported on carbon fibers by the method of immersion.The effect of surface oxidation of carbon fibers on its TiO2 support was studied.The surface of samples was observed by SEM and the bond strength between carbon fibers and TiO2 support was evaluated by ultrasonic vibration.The results suggested: the ratios of TiO2 support both before and after ultrasonic wash increased with oxidation time.For overall consideration of factors in the treatment,it is indicated that when carbon fibers is oxidized for 4 h the better effect of TiO2 support can be obtained.
      Spinnability of silk fibroin solution containing xanthate
      LI Li;LU Lei;TIAN Jianshu;DAI Lixing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  5-8. 
      Abstract ( 1152 )   PDF (140KB) ( 385 )   Save
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      To improve the spinnability of regenerated silk fibroin(RSF) solution,bromide-lithium/ethanol mixed solution was used as a solvent of silk fibroin,and the RSF solution containing xanthate was obtained by adding sodium ethyl xanthate.The RSF filament with xanthate was produced by wet spinning process.The effect of xanthate on the spinnability of the RSF solution was discussed,and the surface morphology of the RSF as-spun filament was observed by SEM.The results showed that compared with the RSF solution without xanthate the spinnability of RSF solution containing xanthate was improved obviously;the surface of RSF as-spun fiber containing xanthate became smooth,and the microfibrils of the fiber were apparently oriented along with fiber axis.
      Partial physical and chemical properties of the wool regeneration protein and polyacrylonitrile copolymerization fiber
      WANG Shugen;WU Ruozi
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  9-11. 
      Abstract ( 1135 )   PDF (190KB) ( 537 )   Save
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      The wool regeneration protein and polyacrylonitrile copolymerization fiber is tested and analyzed,and the results show that this new fiber has maintained fine properties of both wool and polyacrylonitrile,such as higher elongation at break,lower breaking strength,higher crimp elasticity and higher moisture adsorption ratio.Meanwhile it is resistant to mild acid,weak alkali,and ordinary organic solvents,and resistant to some reducing agent and oxidant under low temperature conditions.It has characteristic functional groups of both wool and polyacrylonitrile,so it can be dyed by acid dye or cationic dye.
      Glycolysis of recycled polyester fibers using ethylene glycol (Ⅱ):characterization of glycolysis products
      LI Yonggui;NAI Youbing;LI Zhunzhun;GE Mingqiao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  12-15. 
      Abstract ( 1002 )   PDF (130KB) ( 564 )   Save
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      In order to reduce the pollution produced by polyester wastes and promote resource recycling,the recycled polyester was depolymerized through glycolysis using excessive ethylene glycol in the presence of metal acetate as a catalyst.The glycolysis products were purified and analyzed for hydroxyl and acid values and identified by different techniques,such as differential scanning calorimetry(DSC),infrared absorption spectroscopy(IR) and high performance liquid chromatography(HPLC).It was found that the glycolysis products consist mainly of bis-2-hydroxyethyl terephthalate(BHET) monomer,little dimmer and trimer.The content of purified BHET is 96.378%.
      Development of conducting PET fibers
      SHI Jianheng;GUO Zhenfu;GAO Xushan;TONG Yan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  16-18. 
      Abstract ( 1142 )   PDF (207KB) ( 444 )   Save
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      The conducting master batch was prepared by the copolymerization of polyether ester powder containing metallic salt and PET chips,then was blend-spun with polyester chips to produce conducting PET fiber.The effects of different contents of conducting master batch on the electrical resistivity,mechanical properties,weight reduction ratio after washing,crystallinity and dyeing properties of the conducting fiber were studied.The morphology and conducting mechanism were preliminarily discussed.The results showed that the conducting PET fiber prepared by industrial spinning plant exhibited a resistivity of 1.43×(10~5 Ω·cm) when the conducting master batch concentration was 38% by weight.The mechanical properties,the weight reduction ratio after washing,dyeing properties of the fiber were excellent.
      Influence of nano-particles treatment on the antistatic property of polyester fabric
      YU Qiaozhen
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  19-23. 
      Abstract ( 874 )   PDF (444KB) ( 363 )   Save
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      Based on testing of fabric static voltage,the influence of nano-particles treatment on the antistatic property of polyester fabric was studied.Through analyzing particle size in the residue of dye bath,the aggregation state of nano silver in dye bath was investigated in the one-bath and two-step treatments respectively.SEM was used to analyze the deposition state of nano silver on the treated fabrics.The results show that the treatment of nano silver particles can greatly improve the antistatic property of polyester fabric.The static voltage of polyester fabric decreased by 60.4% when the percent of nano silver was 1.5% after one bath treatment.However,with respect to the two-step treatment,there was a critical value in terms of the added amount of inorganic nano particles,lower than this value,would undesirably cause the rise of static voltage of the treated fabric;after reaching this value,the static voltage began to drop.The dispersant in dispersive dyestuff could disperse and protect nano silver particles effectively.The treatment of nano silver blended with nano gold and nano zinc oxide is a very efficient method in decreasing the static voltage of polyester fabric.After treatment,the static voltage of polyester fabric decreased by 77.7% due to their synergistic effect.
      Preparation of polyvinylidene fluoride microporous membrane reinforced with fabric
      HUO Ruiting;GU Zhenya;ZHAO Guangming;ZUO Kaijie
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  24-26. 
      Abstract ( 969 )   PDF (189KB) ( 346 )   Save
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      In order to improve the intensity of polyvinylidene fluoride(PVDF) microporous membrane,the support fabric was coated with casting solution and the polyvinylidene fluoride microporous membrane reinforced with fabric was prepared by phase inversion process.The factors influencing the preparation and the characters of composite membrane were discussed.The results show that the leakage of casting solution on fabric can be avoided in coating process by increasing the compactness of fabric,finishing the fabric with water and oil repellent or chitosan,and increasing the concentration of PVDF in casting solution,which is in favor of the preparation process of composite membrane.
      Grafting acrylamide onto PP nonwoven fabrics by plasma
      TANG Lihua;LI Xin;JIANG Yuan;WANG Rongmin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  27-29. 
      Abstract ( 1212 )   PDF (121KB) ( 735 )   Save
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      Polypropylene(PP) melt-blown nonwoven fabric was treated by atmospheric-pressure air plasma,and subsequently the sample was grafted using acrylamide as monomer in 15% acrylamide water solution.Attenuated total reflection Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy(ATR-FTIR) confirmed the grafting of polyacrylamide(PAM) onto the surface of the nonwoven sample.Grafting with PAM made the plasma-treated sample durably hydrophilic,its contact angle decreased from 135°(original sample) to 110°and remained unchanged after storage,while the contact angle of untreated sample reverted to 130°.Scanning electron microscopy indicated that plasma treatment had significantly etched the surface of PP fiber and there were projections on the fiber of grafted-sample.
      纺织工程
      Comparative analysis of properties of open-end rotor spun composite yarn and sirofil yarn
      YANG Ruihua;XUE Yuan;WANG Shanyuan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  30-33. 
      Abstract ( 1004 )   PDF (179KB) ( 399 )   Save
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      As a result of different spinning types,different kinds of yarns have different structures and performance.Open-end rotor spun composite yarn was produced on a modified rotor spinning machine.And sirofil yarn was produced on a modified ring spinning machine under the same spinning conditions and according to the same standard as open-end rotor spun composite yarn.The longitudinal views,abrasion resistance,hairiness and breaking strength of the two kinds of composite yarns were tested and analyzed.Through comparative study it revealed that open-end rotor spun composite yarn has a smoother surface,less hairiness,less pilling,and higher abrasion resistance,but its strength is slightly lower than that of sirofil yarn.
      Research into reducing the hairiness of ring spun yarn by a swirler
      CHU Jie;GE Mingqiao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  34-37. 
      Abstract ( 1016 )   PDF (125KB) ( 383 )   Save
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      A swirler can be fixed on the ring frame.In the process of yarnspinning,the rotating airflow inside the swirler can exert an effect on the twisting formation of yarn,thus improving the quality of yarn.The structure of the swirler and its mounting position on the ring frame are introduced.Meanwhile,the experiment is conducted and the air pressure inside the swirler and the influence of the swirler′s structure upon yarn hairiness are analyzed.Moreover,a comparative experiment is carried out on hairiness,breaking strength and unevenness of yarns before and after the swirler is fixed on the ring frame.The results show that the hairiness on the yarn surface is reduced,breaking strength and evenness improved after fixing the swirler.
      Fuzzy evaluation of wet comfort of light weight knitted fabric under slightly sweated condition
      CHEN Li;HUANG Gu;ZHANG Jianfei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  38-40. 
      Abstract ( 990 )   PDF (106KB) ( 462 )   Save
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      For carrying out an overall and objective evaluation of wet comfort of knitted fabric through a simple and easy testing method,four indexes,i.e.,velocity constant of moisture absorption,moisture transmission rate,air permeability,drying rate were selected based on the mechanism of wet transmission for testing the wet comfort of the light weight knitted fabric under slightly sweated condition.Then fuzzy evaluation model was established,and each index could be evaluated by weighted average synthetic evaluation function.Here,weight coefficient was determined by maximum deviation,and all calculation was completed by MatLab program.
      Three-dimensional computer simulation of plain weft knitted fabric
      LIU Su;LONG Hairu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  41-44. 
      Abstract ( 1020 )   PDF (170KB) ( 520 )   Save
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      In order to explore a new method of computer simulation on plain weft knitted fabric and to show its real three-dimensional structure, based on Pierce′s 2-D weft knitted loop model and the feature of knit geometry configuration in space,a 3-D geometry loop model is constructed.Comprising several spatial arcs and curves represented by parameter equations,the model is implemented under the(VC++) programming circumstance by OpenGL drawing program and the spheroid technique in its library functions.The result of research and computer simulation indicate that the modeling and implementing method can give vivid effect of plain knitted fabric with 3-D intermeshed loops without the need of concealment processing.
      Grey correlation analysis of physical properties of suede fabrics
      ZHANG Xiaoli;HUANG Chen;CHEN Jianglin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  45-47. 
      Abstract ( 1210 )   PDF (105KB) ( 385 )   Save
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      The breaking strength and elongation,bursting-strength,abrasion resistance,drape,and crease recovery of 7 kinds of suede fabrics with different specifications were tested,and the effect of structural parameters on the properties was investigated.With grey correlation analysis,the grey correlative sequence of structural parameters came into being,which affected the tensile strength,abrasion resistance,drape,and crease recovery of the suede fabrics.This has provided reference for the design and development of new fashionable suede fabrics.
      Study of nanostructure and uniformity of fluorocarbon films prepared on PET substrates
      WANG Dong;JIAO Lizhen;ZE Xiangjun;LU Jianjun;QI Hongjin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  48-50. 
      Abstract ( 1068 )   PDF (209KB) ( 391 )   Save
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      In order to research and develop waterproof & moisture permeable PET fabric,fluorocarbon film was prepared on PET film and fabric by magnetron sputtering.Nanostructure and homogeneity of fluorocarbon film were characterized by scanning electron microscopy(SEM),X-ray diffraction(XRD),X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy(XPS).SEM shows that fluorocarbon film is in good orientation under certain conditions and has a character of network and rod-shaped nano self-assembly.Network structure of film was obtained for development of waterproof & moisture permeable fabrics.It is indicated by XRD that fluorocarbon film is partly crystallized.XPS shows that the ratio of F/C increases with the pressure increase
      New spunlaced composite substrate for cosmetic mask
      PENG Fubing;JIAO Xiaoning;SHA Ren
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  51-53. 
      Abstract ( 1181 )   PDF (98KB) ( 716 )   Save
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      A new kind of spunlaced composite substrate for mask was introduced.It was made of polypropylene spunbondeds and web of rayon fibers by hydroentangling,and compared with conventional spunlaced mask substrates of rayon and PET fibers.The results indicated that the new substrate has a doublelayer structure,cosmetic solution is mostly stick to the rayon fiber layer which touches the skin closely and softly,it would make full use of the solution.Staple fibers and filaments are entangled due to hydroentangling with two kinds of webs,and the product possesses advantages of two different kinds of webs with good dimensional stability,excellent air-permeability,low cost and chemical-free.

      Preparation and characterization of impregnating-bonded cotton/silk nonwoven
      HUANG Chen;HAN Xiaojian;FANG Li′na;DU Zhaofang;HE Yindi
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  54-57. 
      Abstract ( 959 )   PDF (118KB) ( 645 )   Save
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      Cotton and silk were first blended according to various ratios,followed by combing and forming nonwoven web by hydroentangling method,and then the nonwoven web was impregnated in 4% gelatin solution,thus obtained a degradable nonwoven mulch film.The water permeability,moisture vapor transmission,degradability of the film were tested and characterized by using scanning electron microscope(SEM),Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy(FT-IR) and degrade efficiency.The performance difference before and after degradation of the film was analyzed.The preliminary results indicated that when compared with the conventional plastic mulching this nonwoven mulch film presents better physical property and degradability,and after degradation,it enriches the nitrogen content in the earth layers.
      染整与化学品
      Structures and properties of Gemini phosphate surfactants
      ZHENG Guo;ZONG Yujuan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  58-61. 
      Abstract ( 1660 )   PDF (212KB) ( 315 )   Save
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      Two Gemini phosphate surfactants with different structures were synthesized with phosphatizing agent P_2O_5 and POCl_3.The relation between the structure and surface activities,wetting,emulsification,foaming,antistatic,friction properties were investigated.The results showed that the Gemini phosphate surfactants have better surface activities and application properties.The Gemini phosphate surfactant with P_2O_5 as phosphatizing agent shows better surface tension,wetting property,and lubricity where the Gemini phosphate surfactant with POCl_3 as phosphatizing agent exhibits better emulsification,low foaming,antistatic,and cohesion properties.
      Effect of polymerization method on the behavior of P(Am-co-VAc) sizes
      CHAI Yan;ZHU Zhifeng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  62-64. 
      Abstract ( 1108 )   PDF (105KB) ( 371 )   Save
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      P(Am-co-VAc) sizes were synthesized through emulsion and dispersion polymerizations respectively.The influences of the two polymerization methods on the viscosity,adhesion-to-fiber,and film behaviors of the sizes were investigated by the comparative analysis.The result demonstrates that P(Am-co-VAc) sizes prepared through emulsion polymerization are advantageous over those through dispersion polymerizations in adhesion-to-fiber,break strength and breaking elongation of the film and water solubility but similar moisture absorption property.The emulsion polymerization is beneficial to raising the application behavior of the sizing agents.
      Breeding of a fast retting bacterium and appraisal of retting function in hemp
      PENG Yuande;TANG Shouwei;YANG Xi′ai;YAN Li;ZHU Aiguo;WEN Lan;XIONG Heping
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  65-68. 
      Abstract ( 1067 )   PDF (121KB) ( 438 )   Save
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      Breeding and selection of hemp retting strains and their retting functions were studied aiming at problems such as unstable quality,low fiber intensity,low products rate,serious environment pollution brought about by chemical retting technology.After collected strains broadly,we selected them and mutated strains,sifted a new strain.This strain can accomplish hemp retting within(16 h.) Under laboratory condition retting of hemp this strain has advantages of short retting period,high yield and superior quality.Compared with traditional retting method,the fast retting technique can shorten retting time by 90% or more,the output for short fiber has been increased by 2.1%, and the fiber strength has been increased by 7.9%.And the fiber has got light color,homogeneous texture and good luster.
      Stability of whitening agents using Zeta potential analysis
      ZHAO Xiaowei;HE Jinxin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  69-71. 
      Abstract ( 1028 )   PDF (186KB) ( 335 )   Save
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      To raise the stability of the disperse suspension of fluorescent whitening agent(FWA) C.I.199,the influences of surfactants,electrolytes,pH value on the stability of whitening agent 22E-13 for polyester and 22EC-17 for T/C were investigated through measuring the Zeta potential in their dispersion systems.The results indicated that when an anionic surfactant or a mixture of anionic and nonanionic surfactants is added into the dispersion system,it will improve the system stability significantly.But when electrolytes with high value ion present in the system,its stability deteriorates.In addition,pH value of the system is very important to the stability.
      Adsorption of sodium dodecylbenzenesulfate on nano-sized CaCO_3
      LIANG Wenyu;GE Mingqiao;LI Yonggui;YU Tianshi
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  72-75. 
      Abstract ( 950 )   PDF (127KB) ( 375 )   Save
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      The adsorption of sodium dodecylbenzenesulfate(SDBS) on nano-sized CaCO_3 in aqueous system was studied so as to further analyze the dispersing mechanism of the nano-sized CaCO_3 in aqueous system with SDBS as dispersant.The adsorption amount of SDBS on nano-sized CaCO_3 was determined by using UV/VI spectrometry.The change of Zeta potential of dispersion after adsorption of SDBS and the stability of adsorption were discussed.The experimental results showed that the adsorption amount of SDBS on nano-sized CaCO_3 increased with increasing the concentration of SDBS solution and reached saturated adsorption when the concentration exceeded(2 g/L.) pH value had an impact on the adsorption amount and the amount of adsorption at pH=7 was larger than that at pH=11.After SDBS was adsorbed on nano-sized CaCO_3,a great change of Zeta potential of the dispersion was observed.The adsorption of SDBS on nano-sized CaCO_3 was a spontaneous process and this adsorption was rather stable.
      Shrinkproofing treatment of wool woven fabric using protease
      ZHANG Xi;ZHANG Jianfei;HE Jiayi
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  76-80. 
      Abstract ( 999 )   PDF (139KB) ( 470 )   Save
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      To find an effective way for wool shrinkproofing,four alkaline proteases—Savinase,Esperase,Woolase and Papaya protease were selected to treat wool woven fabric for shrink-resistance and hydrogen peroxide was used as reagent in the pretreatment.The effect of the pretreatment on the wool shrinkproofing with protease was investigated.Especially it demonstrated by lowering the temperature of H_2O_2 treatment and adding activator A for H_2O_2 the loss of wool fiber strength by the pretreatment was reduced remarkably.Experiments revealed that the wool woven fabric treated by H_2O_2-enzyme system was imparted better shrinkproofing effect,but it exhibited rather serious strength loss of the wool fiber in general.However,combined use of two kinds or more enzymes plus protective agent A could reduce the strength loss of wool fiber.
      服装工程
      Assessment of clothing fabric insulation by infrared imaging
      CHEN Yisong;XU Jun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  81-83. 
      Abstract ( 991 )   PDF (177KB) ( 630 )   Save
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      Based on the principle of infrared measuring system,an approach to assessing clothing fabrics insulation under wearing condition by applying infrared instrument is put forward.Temperatures of a group of fabrics,made of different material,are examined,and their insulation performance are compared by this approach.Theoretical analysis and actual testing have proved that although there is no relationship developed yet between infrared and moisture transmission,starting from the clo of garment,the infrared imaging method,compared with the traditional one,is a convenient and an important tool for assessing thermal comfort property of clothing.
      3-D modeling for garment based on cubic spline
      XIA Ping;YAO Jin;LUO Quanhua
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  84-88. 
      Abstract ( 911 )   PDF (208KB) ( 393 )   Save
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      According to the three-dimensional(3-D) data of some points measured on the surface of a standard woman mannequin,we obtained more new interpolated 3-D data between the measured control points on the mannequin by cubic spline method in warp-wise and weft-wise,and built a parametric 3-D model for different mannequins in form and size with graphic functions of OpenGL.The surface of the mannequin was fitted by small quadrilateral planes.Then based on the model of the mannequin and the relationship between mannequin and garment,the 3-D coordinates of the key points for garment modeling was developed and the computerized 3-D model of garment for different styles was established with OpenGL.We present an interface with VC++ FMC dialogue frame to select styles of garment interactively and control the mannequin parametrically.
      Study on parameterized mannequin modeling in 3-D garment simulation
      SUN Shouqian;XU Aiguo
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  89-93. 
      Abstract ( 1034 )   PDF (256KB) ( 585 )   Save
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      In 3-D garment simulation,mannequins with different shapes are usually used to show wearing effect such as stereoscopic impression and fitness etc.Taken into consideration this practical application,a novel method for parameterized mannequin modeling was proposed.Feature parameters are determined according to anthropometry.Both template and result models are described in terms of polygonal meshes.Low-level geometry handling is based on axial deformation technique in computer graphics.Additionally,Radial deformation weight curves also have been introduced to improve the flexibility of modification.The remarkable advantages of this method are the simplicity of operating,the intuition of input and the quick speed of modeling.The method can be effectively applied to 3-D garment simulation environment in need of individual mannequins.
      Digital principles for identification of garment styles
      WANG Yanzhen
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  94-98. 
      Abstract ( 935 )   PDF (440KB) ( 499 )   Save
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      To study the intelligent transformation between fashion design and pattern,it is proposed that an innovative concept about changing 2-D garment drawing into 2-D pattern.In current study,various methods of apparel′s expression were analyzed,and the method showing how to build the standardized garment drawing was introduced.Focused on the relationship between the garment drawing and its pattern,it obtained the mathematics model about the transformation between the standard garment drawing and its pattern on the basis of the mathematics reference model of the standardized garment drawing.Transformation of body demonstrated how to establish the reference model of body and transformation process.The sample garment was used to test the accuracy of theory,and it began to set up a digital transformation system tentatively.
      Garment culture in online game
      WU Zhiming;FANG Wei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  99-102. 
      Abstract ( 1074 )   PDF (100KB) ( 690 )   Save
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      This paper used such research methods as recapitulating,summarizing,analyzing and comparing,set forth the concept of online game garment culture,and discussed the characters of it.This paper suggested that main characters of online game garment culture were virtual reality,hyperspace-time,net community, mixed culture,the quality of freedom and exaggeration.At the same time the difference of garment culture between online game and real society was discussed in respect of connotation,specialty and influence.
      Grey model of dynamic parameters of young men′s waist in East China
      WANG Hongge;YAN Qiao;ZHANG Wenbin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  103-106. 
      Abstract ( 919 )   PDF (216KB) ( 363 )   Save
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      This study analyzed the dynamic amount of deformation of half-waistline of young men aged 20-30 in the region of East China using the statistical method named general statistical and K-means,and the total tendency of half-waist′s movement change was obtained by means of statistical software SPSS.This paper used the grey theory GM(1,1) and math software MatLab to build the optimized mathematics model of the law of change and the amount of deformation of half-waistline for each motion.The experiments revealed that the model′s simulated data was in good agreement with the actual data and it would offer reference value for the research of motive comfort in lower garment design.
      机械与器材
      Design of a fiber stretch-breaking sett frame
      ZHU Longbiao;WANG Changguo;YAN Xiaozhao;XIA Weidong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  107-109. 
      Abstract ( 985 )   PDF (192KB) ( 537 )   Save
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      The paper addressed the construction of the fiber stretch-breaking sett frame such as stretching,breaking and press mechanism and driving system,its working principle,parameters as roller gauge,applied pressure of the rubber roller and draw ratio,and factors influencing the stretch-breaking main length.The machine can decrease the degree of separation between two fibers of different length and improve the mixed spun yarn quality.
      A probe to the calculation model of the warp beem linear speed of electronic let-off system
      WANG Daoxing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  110-112. 
      Abstract ( 1066 )   PDF (102KB) ( 547 )   Save
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      Based on the observation and analysis,the researcher raised doubts about the calculation model of the warp beam instantaneous linear speed controlled by the electronic let-off system equipped with no feed back roller device.According to the document concerning the study of calculation model of electronic let-off at present and the latst information of Karl Mayer,the warp ends are regarded as some stiff material when calculating the warp beam let-off instantaneous speed which is used as basis for sending the signal to control the instantaneous warp beam let-off.It is pointed out that the tolerance resulting from this calculation belongs to a micro tolerance inherent from this let-off system and can not be corrected by optimizing its operation.And a qualitative analysis of this tolerance is done in this article.However,its quantitiative analysis is very complicated and further research as an individual subject is suggested.
      A novel transmission and control system for twisting machine based on PCI bus
      WEI Pingjun;CAI Lili;LI Ge
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  113-116. 
      Abstract ( 1081 )   PDF (124KB) ( 361 )   Save
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      Most of the control systems of the latest twisting-machine adopt the multi-motor drive system.However,at present in China,the use of single chip processor for its control is still popular.Aiming at the shortcomings of the control system,a new type transmission and control system based on PCI bus technology is developed,which is a multi-motor transmission system of four motors.An appropriate mathematic model has been developed.The running of spindles,the winding of bobbins and the reciprocate of guiding-yarns are controlled in phase by the control system,which is based on the integration of the AC servo technology,the frequency conversion technology,the PCI local bus technology and the twisting theory.Experiments show that the design of the transmission and control system can achieve the process objectives of winding of the latest twisting machine.
      Design of control system for hollow spindle novelty twister based on PCI bus
      SHANG Jihui;YE Guoming;WANG Changguo
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  117-120. 
      Abstract ( 1247 )   PDF (150KB) ( 313 )   Save
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      According to fancy yarn′s producing mechanism,this paper provides a new design of control system for hollow spindle novelty twister.The fancy yarn process parameters and machine adjusting parameters are integrated in the software design and introduced into the database.In this way,based on dual-RAM and PCI bus,all the parameters are transmitted to machine driving system to realize the parallel communications between IPC and MCU.IPC is responsible for sending and receiving data,while MCU is responsible for monitoring machine driving system,which regulates rotors of the twister and execute real-time changing speed.Thus it produces various kinds of fancy yarn and realizes the control of hollow spindle novelty twister.
      Damping experimental research for the beam of computerized embroidery machine
      LIN Jianlong;WANG Xiaobei;ZHAO Liping
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  121-123. 
      Abstract ( 963 )   PDF (102KB) ( 534 )   Save
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      Considering the fact that beam vibration of the computerized embroidery machine affects directly the embroidery quality and the broken end ratio,the beam damping equipment is designed based on the study of the beam damping.The vibration test is marked in different velocities to probe the effective way of the beam damping by changing the fixed type of the beam on two ends,setting up the curve beam with right angle to sustain the beam,and installing the rubber damper,so as to reduce the amplitude of the beam vibration.The critical rotary speeds of the beam under horizontal and vertical bending vibration are figured out by experimental research.It is found that the above measures can effectively reduce the amplitude of the beam under horizontal and vertical bending vibration.
      Automatic inspection system for super high-quality roller blank
      ZHAI Hua
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  124-126. 
      Abstract ( 1012 )   PDF (114KB) ( 526 )   Save
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      A super high-quality roller blank automatic inspection system has been proposed according to the two point method and relative measure theory for production efficiency improvement.The hardware system adopts the direct contact measure way,affecting the collecting of surface information of the roller blank by means of the lever mechanism.And the modularization design has been applied in the software system to accomplish online measurement,automatic datum recording,part distinguishing,parameters updating,statistic and analysis.The system can achieve 5 sectional diameters and straightness in one inspection,and its error is ±0.7 μm.Based on inspection of 50 blanks by random sample in many lots,the results obtained by the automatic inspection system are in good agreement with those by manual operations.The automatic inspection system can finish inspection of one blank within 20 seconds.
      管理与信息化
      Design and implementation of automatic fabric inspection system
      GAO Xiaoding;ZUO He
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  127-130. 
      Abstract ( 1012 )   PDF (113KB) ( 405 )   Save
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      By application of the four pieces DSP+FPGA architecture and processing the collected video digital images by the field programmable gate array(FPGA),the automatic fabric inspection is realized.It designs the four pieces TM320C62x as digital image processing core and the connecting of the fabric inspection system control is executed by FPGA.It also designs the classified identification arithmetic of fabric defects based on attributed relational histogram and support vector machine.The experiments show when the velocity of sample fabric is of 100(m/s) and 120(m/s),the automatic fabric inspection system has achieved the accuracy of fabric defect detection 80% and 60% respectively.
      Industrial upgrading of Chinese apparel based on the theory of global value chain
      HU Danting;WANG Peixia
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  131-134. 
      Abstract ( 1343 )   PDF (103KB) ( 1371 )   Save
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      According to the theory of global value chain,the apparel value chain is buyer-driven,namely,large retailers,brand marketers,and brand creators play a leading role in the apparel value chain,and they occupy the high-end of the chain and control it.The apparel industry in China,meanwhile,is currently located in the low-end of the global value chain,confronted with problems of order loss and transfer of production center.Therefore,industrial upgrading becomes a must.They should gradually climb up the value chain with the following approaches: making samples,improving design ability,brand internationalization and opening up international marketing channels.
      综合述评
      Classification of self-adaptive textiles and related products
      HUANG He;YU Weidong;YAN Haojing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2007, 28(12):  135-140. 
      Abstract ( 1177 )   PDF (160KB) ( 518 )   Save
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      Intelligent/self-adaptive textiles were classified according to the shapes or dimensions,characteristics and functions of materials as shape-adaptive textiles,characteristics-adaptive textiles and function?-adaptive textiles.The definitions of each sort of self-adaptive textiles were presented,moreover,properties and applications of the representative products were introduced to exhibit the newest development and achievement in this field.The prospect of the intelligent/self-adaptive textiles was made on the basis of the present research achievements and development trend in intelligent/self-adaptive textiles.