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Table of Content
15 July 2006, Volume 27 Issue 7
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研究论文
Biodegradability of polyvinyl acetals
ZHANG Hui-zhen;LIU Bai-ling;LUO Rong;WU Yong-zhong;LI Yuan
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 1-3.
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965
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Enzymes for biodegrading PVA was obtained from the waste water and sludge through separating technology.Spectrophotometric analysis was employed to investigate the effect of modification of PVA by formaldehyde and glutaraldehyde on the biodegradability of PVA.The results revealed that the biodegradability of PVA acetals is inferior to that of the unmodified PVA,and declines as the acetalizing or cross-linking degree increases.FT-IR analysis of the samples before and after biodegradation indicated that fission occurs in the backbone of PVA acetals during the degrading process.
One to one corresponding principle on structure design of jacquard fabric
ZHOU Jiu;Frankie Ng;SHEN Gan
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 4-7.
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1485
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Among the woven,jacquard fabric belongs to a variety of higher end in technological sense.Its structural design is the key in designing the fabric, and one to one corresponding principle is always regarded as one of the most important principles,which is the foundation for creating innovative designs of jacquard fabric under with either the traditional design mode or computer aided design mode.In combination with the applied feature of digital design technology,this paper makes an in-depth analysis of one to one corresponding principle of fabric structure design,presenting several design cases with different fabric structures for explaining the applied approach of this principle.As a result,the viewpoint is suggested that any innovative design of jacquard fabric brought about by digital design technology should be based on the one to one corresponding principle.
Anti-UV finishing of cellulose fabrics using nano-materials
ZHANG Ling-ling;ZHENG Jin-huan;LIU Jin-qiang;CHEN Jun-li
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 8-12.
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953
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The surface morphology,transmittance of ultraviolet radiation,UPF,washing fastness,air permeability and bending stiffness of cellulose fabrics finished with various kinds of nano-metal-oxide were tested,and the dispersing and fixation of anti-UV nano-metal oxides on cellulose fabrics were investigated. The experiment results show that polymer capsulation can make nano ZnO evenly dispersed.The loose woven thin cellulose fabric treated with nano ZnO by padding has enhanced ultraviolet resistant property and durable washing fastness.
研究探讨
Configuration of electrospun polycaprolactam nano-scale fibers
ZHANG Xiao-ying;PAN Zhi-juan;QIAN Dan-na;SHEN Wen-tao
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 13-15.
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997
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Nano-scale polycaprolactam fibers were electro-spun.The effect of voltage,distance from spinneret to collecting screen(C-SD) and concentration of polycaprolactam-formic acid solution on the configuration of the fiber was analyzed,and the relationship between the above electro-spinning parameters and the diameter distribution of the spun fiber was investigated.The results indicated that the diameter of electro-spun nylon fiber increases with the increase of the solution concentration,and the best spinning result is achieved when the concentration is 12%.When the voltage exceeds 15 kV,the fiber diameter becomes finer with the rising of the voltage,and the diameter distribution of the fiber tends to consistency.The change of C-SD makes the size of electro-spun nylon 6 fiber undulated.
Twist distribution of ring spun slub yarn and its influence on the yarn strength
LU Yu-zheng;GAO Wei-dong;XIE Chun_ping
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 16-18.
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1398
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A mathematical model of twisting torsion of the slub yarn has been developed through the pole torsion model based on the distribution of the torsional stress on the ring-spun slub yarn during twisting.The influence of four parameters(basic yarn diameter,slub diameter,slub space and slub length)on the distribution of twist was analyzed using this model.The results showed that the twist of the slub is always less than the designed,which is chiefly influenced by the ratio of the slub diameter to the basic yarn diameter,and increase of the ratio will decrease the twist;while the twist of basic yarn is always more than the designed,which is mainly influenced by the ratio of the slub length to the slub space,the increase of the ratio will increase the twist.The effect of the distribution of twist on the yarn strength was also analyzed,and verification experiment was performed.In general,the strength of the yarn is influenced more by the increased fiber quantity in the yarn than by the decrease of the slub twist.Therefore,the strength of the slub is higher than that of the basic yarn. The strength of the whole slub yarn is very close to that of the common yarn with the same twist as the basic yarn.
Geometric disposition of the single yarns and mechanical analysis of strength in ply yarn
NIE Yu-hong;YUAN Bin-yu
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 19-22.
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1152
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Mechanical analysis of the geometric disposition of single yarns in a ply yarn,the ply yarn structure,and the effect of twisting on increasing the strength of the ply yarn was carried out under the conditions that the ply yarn was bearing tensional load.The conditions for forming a solid core ply yarn are pointed out,and conclusions are drawn that the strengthening effect of twisting on the hollow core ply yarn is greater than that on the solid core ply yarn.Twisting together in one operation,single yarns or strands should not be more than five.When a high strength ply yarn is desired,multi-doubling-twisting processes are proposed.
Application of image transformation technique on dobby fabric weave design
SHI Guo-sheng;ZHANG Yu-qiu;XIONG Chao
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 23-26.
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1035
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The traditional method to design fabric weave is through making variations in heddles and cards on the weave pattern,which requires a designer who should have experience in it and has to do the boring operation as clicking with mouse one by one according to each variation.This article presents a new weave design method that is different from normal ones.It is based on the principle of image transformation technique,and starting from the existing weave patterns, transforms weave images via such technique as twisting,cutting,filling,etc.Then,recognizing of the transformed weave image is undertaken by computer and a new weave pattern with varied transformation characteristics is obtained.By selecting different transformation methods and parameters,this design method can get many new weave patterns based on the existing one in a minute.It is simple in operation and high-efficient in designing,thus providing a good way for dobby fabric weave design.
Scouring of knitted cotton fabrics with compound enzymes
WANG Qiang;FAN Xue-rong;GAO Wei-dong;CHEN Jian
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 27-30.
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978
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In order to improve the enzymatic scouring effect,compound enzymes have received growing attention.However,the optimal scouring conditions vary with enzyme preparation,which has greatly limited the application of compound enzymes.Therefore,one-step one-bath scouring of knitted cotton fabrics with home_made alkaline pectinase,neutral cellulose,neutral-alkaline protease and xylanase as well as their combinations was investigated in the present work.The enzyme combinations for cotton scouring were optimized.The results showed that compound enzymes scouring exhibits better effect than individual enzymes,and wettability and dyeing properties that are very close to the conventional scouring but less strength loss.
Applicability of ultrasonic desizing on cotton fabrics
YIN Jia_min;WANG Ju-ping;ZHANG Feng;CHEN Yu-yue
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 31-33.
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1094
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The ultrasonic technology was applied to desizing of the cotton fabric with hot water,alkali and amylases,and the desizing percentage of both PVA and starch of the cotton fabrics desized under the ultrasonic wave was determined and compared with that desized under normal conditions.The results indicated that the ultrasonic wave have obvious effect to the desizing with amylases.The optimized desizing conditions with amylases under ultrasonic wave were also confirmed: amylases 5 g/L,temperature(50 ℃,)time 10～15 min.
Bacteriostasis of nanosized colloidal silver on nonwovens
WANG Hong-bo;WANG Jin-yan;WANG Qiang
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 34-36.
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1071
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The bacteriostasis effect of nonwovens was imparted by treating with the home_made dispersing system of antimicrobial powder.The bacteriostasis effect of the treated nonwovens was tested by inhibition zone method.The relationship between the content of nanosized colloidal silver powder on nonwovens and the effect of bacteriostasis was analyzed,and the suitable range of nanosized colloidal silver content for different materials of nonwovens were determined,i.e.,polypropylene nonwovens 4%～6%(o.w.f);viscose nonwovens 6%～10%(o.w.f);cotton nonwovens 3%～6%(o.w.f).
Theoretical analysis of traveler position during spinning
YU Zai-hai;WU Wen-ying;CHEN Rui-qi
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 37-39.
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1061
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Applying the theory of relativity,the traveler movement was resolved into the traction motion and the relative motion,and the equation of the space motion of the traveler and the space position coordinate of the center of gravity of the traveler were obtained.Then,based on the principle of dynamics and the theory on the ballon for ring spinning,the force acting upon the traveler during spinning was analyzed,and the dynamical equation of the traveler in motion was derived,thus providing a theoretic basis for the correct design of the traveler.Finally,some examples were presented for calculating the space position of the traveler by making use of the MatLab.
Correlation of free movement of hands and garment ease
YUAN Fei;YUAN Guan-luo;WANG Chun-yan
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 40-43.
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The paper adopted the lineation-on-body method to measure the change of skin caused by hands free movement,deduced the change rule of each parts through the mean-analysis and its relationship with garment structure.Further correlation analysis and component analysis were done of the back width because the analytical results displayed that the change of back width was notable and tended to expand.It was found through further correlation and factor analyses that the change of the back width can be attributed to three main factors,that is,arms forward movement,raising up and outward movement,and raising up and backward movement,and it is the forward movement that results in the enlargement of the back width,which should be taken careful consideration when studying the exercise comfort and garment ease.
Influence of Chinese traditional costume culture on European fashion brands
NI Jie-cheng;QIAN Xin
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 44-47.
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The influence of Chinese traditional costume culture on European fashion brands was discussed.The feature of Chinese traditional costume culture,especially,QiPao in Qing Dynasty were introduced from style,color,material and pattern.The correlation of European fashion brands and various culture including native and foreign culture were analyzed.Proofs of the influence of Chinese traditional costume culture on European fashion brands in terms of outlines,colors and patterns,as well as particularities via analysis of the styles of brands of Yves Saint Laurent,Pierre Cardin,D&G,Valentino were found.Finally,this paper points out that while paying attention to foreign fashion elements,Chinese fashion designer should actively seek the native cultural elements and national traits to create our own brand.
Customer satisfaction measuring index system(CSMIS) in brand garment enterprises
DING Lai-bing;XU Bo-jun;LIANG Hui_e;WANG Zhong-lin
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 48-51.
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Based on the expatiation of the basic theories on the customer satisfaction degree(CSD) and analysis and refining of ECSI model,the customer satisfaction measuring index system(CSMIS) is set up,which is suitable for native garment enterprises,so as to provide a guideline for the improvement of the traditional marketing view and establish a "customer-oriented" marketing strategy.The measuring index system was applied to the evaluation of an enterprise.A survey on a brand clothing enterprise in a specific scope was conducted and the results were analyzed and used to evaluate the enterprise and the satisfaction degree of customers.It is expected that it can provide theoretical guides for brand garment enterprises.
Information management system of 3D anthropometric data based on mix structure
HUANG Xin-min;ZHANG Xin;ZHU Xin-juan
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 52-55.
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925
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Analyzed the specific requirements of users on 3D anthropometric data information management system and the merits and demerits of both C/S and B/S,it is suggested that the C/S mode be employed to meet the requirements such as high-demand in security,high frequency of data processing,good mutual-communication and fixed places,while for wide scope of operations and low requirement in security,the B/S mode be employed to meet the requirements for garment industry and persons.The system integrating the advantages of both C/S and B/S satisfies different special demands and has sound expansibility.The function module of 3D Anthropometric Data Information Management System and the technology for execution are introduced in brief.
测试分析
Establishing model of single yarn strength based on cotton fiber quality
ZHANG Li-juan;XIONG Zong-wei;ZHOU Zhi-guo;CHEN Bing-lin;XUE Xiao-ping
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 56-58.
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906
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Stepwise regression analysis was used to study the experimental data of yarn spinning,and the results showed that the strength of yarns depends on the quality of cotton fiber,spinning technology and linear density of yarn;the pivotal indexes expressing the cotton fiber quality are cotton fiber length,strength,Micronaire and uniformity.The model of single yarn strength manufacture by combing or carding processes is established according to the findings above,which is a non-linear model having explicit mechanism,few independent variables,and good projecting validity.It is simple and intuitionist,and easy to promote for application.
Sizing technology of worsted wool yarn
CAI Yong-dong
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 59-62.
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1531
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Introduced the specific demands of sizing worsted wool yarns.Sizing performance of commonly used three kinds of size on wool yarn,e.g.,cohesiveness,wettability,compatibility,and film-forming was examined and compared.And compounding experiments were carried out with PVA0588,modified starch ASP,polyacrylamide size at different mixing ratio,using penetrant BX,JFC,T selectively. The test results show that determination of proper component proportion of mixed size and addition of appropriate amount of penetrant are factors for ensuring favorable sizing performance of the mixed size and better sizing effect on worsted wool yarns.
Deweighting of dobby suede
DUAN Ya-feng;LIU Qing-sheng
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 63-66.
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939
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In consideration of structural features of superfine sea-island polyester fiber,a lot of experiments were performed to investigate the relationship between the warp-wise deweighting rate of dobby suede made of sea-island polyester and treatment temperature,concentration of NaOH and duration of treatment;the relationship between the shrinkage in warp-wise and weft-wise of the fabric and temperature and concentrate of NaOH;and the factors causing distinct difference in shrinkage between warp-wise and weft-wise.The permeability,breaking strength,bending rigidity and thickness of the treated fabric with different deweighting rate were determined and it was found that the best deweighting rate ranges from 18.9% to 21.76%.
Wearing resistance of starch film filled with nano-SiO
2
WANG Meng;WU Min;GE Ming-qiao
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 67-70.
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999
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The properties of starch were improved by adding SiO
2
nanoparticles,and the mechanism of improving the wearing resistance of this SiO
2
starch film was studied through experimental analysis.The effect of the content of SiO
2
nanoparticles on the wearing property of the starch film was measured using a wear tester.Then,the surface morphology of the starch film was characterized by scanning electronic microscope(SEM),atom force microscope(AFM) and high magnification optical microscope,and the wearing mechanism was analyzed.The results showed that the wear resistance of the starch film filled with optimal content of nano-SiO
2
is better than that of pure starch film,and the best wear resistance was achieved when the content of SiO
2
nanoparticles was 3%.
应用技术
Temperature control of draw texturing machine based on compensation to pure time delay
HU Chi-bing;TENG Zhou-bo;ZHANG Ji-you
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 71-74.
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1123
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Aiming at the problem of large delay in temperature control of draw texturing machine,a method of Smith predicting control was used.The building and application of the temperature control model of draw texturing machine were discussed in detail,and its flow chart was presented.The control principle of thyratron power regulator was used in the back channel,thus,the hardware was simplified,and the power factor was raised.Comparison of Smith predictor control system and PID control system demonstrated that the former can eliminate the pure time delay,reduce overshoot,shorten regulating time,and improve control precision and running stability.It is obvious that Smith predictor control system is superior to the conventional PID and suitable for the temperature control of draw texturing machine.
Design of loom monitoring and management system based on C/S model
SHAO Jing-feng;QIN Lan-shuang
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 75-78.
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1134
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Aiming at the needs of production information technology and network development of textile enterprises,a kind of loom on-line monitoring and networking management system based on C/S model was designed,which makes use of an intranet linking the computers of all production shops with computers of management offices with the host computer in charge of monitoring and other computers executing control of production quantity and quality of each procedure.The actual problems encountered during designing and solutions are presented along with applied analysis of the system which satisfies the practical production demand and raises the work efficiency of textile enterprises.The design plan realizes the networking management from preparing production plan to production process control and to statistics of production data.
Theoretical investigation of cleaning technique for the water needle plate
JIAO Xiao-ning;WANG Xu;LIANG Shu-lin
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 79-82.
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981
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With an attempt to find a suitable method for cleaning the water needle plate,the paper made a general introduction of the water needle plate,analyzed the chief materials which would cause blocking up of the needle plate and three forms of blocking up,and presented three kinds of representative chemical cleaning solution and suitable chemical regents.The cleaning mechanism of the high-pressure water cleaning technology for the water needle plate was elaborated as well as its method and advantages.Ultrasonic and laser cleaning technologies for it were also discussed.
Development of spinning finish for PP FDY
ZHOU Xiang_dong;YANG Hai-tao
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 83-85.
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1025
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Based on the structural characteristics of polypropylene(PP) fiber and the features of spinning technology for its fully drawn yarn(FDY),the spinning finish TF-730A for PP FDY was developed using polyglycol fatty acid ester as the backbone and other surfactant monomers as additive.The finish agent exhibits good binding,antistatic,moisturising,lubricating,smoothing and abrasive resistant properties.When applied to spinning PP FDY,it can fully meet the process requirements.
Causes and elimination of the foams within sizing pastes
ZHU Zhi-feng;QIAO Zhi-yong
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 86-89.
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1237
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The formation and stability of foams within sizing pastes used in warp sizing operations are discussed through analyzing the mechanism of the foam formation.The causes for forming foams are surveyed from three aspects: size,size mixing and sizing.With respect to the size,surfactants,protein,and partially hydrolyzed PVA components,as well as some chemical additives and neutralized agents,and improper viscosity and pH value are often the direct cause of formation of foams.The mechanism of foam elimination by antifoaming agents is discussed and some commonly used antifoaming agents are briefly introduced.
Method to balance the function and sensation in fashion design
SHUAI Min;SHEN Lei
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 90-92.
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1211
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The article mainly discussed how to reach the balance between the function and the sensation in the fashion design.In the times of fashion design diversification and multipolarity,the function and sensation are important components.As the clothes meet the basic needs of keeping warming of the people,at the same time,it serves as decoration and beautification.Modern fashion design should meet the requirements in serviceability and satisfy people′s desire for seeking after beauty as well.A successful product of design must make the two aspects reach balance in some way.Coordinating the relationship is helpful to make the design more perfect.Meanwhile,correctly handing the relation requires a designer to have good proficiency and quality.
Discussion on information system construction of textile equipment manufacturing enterprises
JIANG Ling
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 93-96.
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After the quota′s times,the textile equipment manufacturing industry of China is facing more and more strong market competition.Inner and outer environment requires the enterprises to make quick response to the changing market.And the construction of the information system provides the enterprises with the strong sustainment to its quick response ability.The basic requirement and content of the information system of textile equipment industry are discussed and a series of questions during the implement of the information system are analyzed.Also,it is put forward that,being a systems engineering,the construction of the information system includes the design,purchase,technique,manufacturing,management and the after service which covers the product′s full life time.And it is an important measure to improve the competition ability of the enterprise.
综合述评
Carboxymethyl cellulose fibers used for wound dressings
QIN Yi-min
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 97-99.
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1590
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In order to improve the hydroscopic property of fibers,cellulose fibers were treated with chloroacetic acid to prepare carboxymethyl cellulose fibers.Fibers with different degrees of carboxymethylation were prepared by controlling the ratio of the weight of fiber to chloroacetic acid.Experimental results showed that the treated fibers had much higher hydroscopicity than the untreated ones,due to the highly absorbent carboxymethyl groups in the fiber structure.When made into wound dressings,these highly absorbent carboxymethyl fibers can absorb a large amount of wound fluid.The results of this study confirmed that carboxymethylated cellulose fibers absorb liquid into the inside of fiber,and become a hydrogel when being wet.Because they can create a moist environment suitable for wound healing,this type of product is highly valuable in wound care.
Advances in research on biodegradable functional fibers
CHEN Chi;DAN Wei-hua;ZENG Rui;MI Zhen-jian;QU Jian-jian;LIN Hai
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 100-103.
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This overview addressed the nature and characteristics of biodegradable functional fibers,the research trend and current status and the development prospect of the fibers with focuses on natural macromolecular fibers,polyester fiber and water soluble polymer fibers,and in particular,their uses in textile and medical areas.Furthermore,the development and application of the biodegradable fiber and functional fiber are discussed respectively.
Fiber as support for immobilized enzyme and its application
NIE Hua-li;ZHU Li-min
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 104-108.
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915
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The preparation of immobilized enzyme on fiber is reviewed.The techniques of enzyme immobilization including the traditional methods: adsorption,entrapment,covalent bonding and crosslinking,and the latest ones: photochemical methods and biomimetic molecular recognition are introduced.Its application to textile,existing problems,and future prospect of the immobilized enzyme technology are discussed.
Progress of study on pressure comfort of clothing
MENG Xiang-ling;ZHANG Wei-yuan
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 109-112.
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1402
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Clothing comfort involves three potential independent factors,i.e.,thermal & moisture comfort,tactile comfort and pressure comfort.Being a component of the entire comfort of clothing,pressure comfort plays a positive effect. From the medicinal viewpoint,it is obvious that excessive clothing pressure will be harmful to human′s health.So,fabric and clothing should be so designed that they satisfy the needs of man′s fundamental action.The study on pressure comfort of clothing is a relative new field.This paper discusses the research scope of clothing pressure comfort,the principle of clothing pressure formation and the relationship between fitting and clothing comfort.Furthermore,it describes the subjective and objective methods of evaluating the garment pressure comfort,and the progress of research on this area at home and broad.The significance and foreground of this research topic are also analyzed.
Classification methods of figure type in the female garment size standards
BAI Li-hong;ZHANG Wen-bin
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 113-116.
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1356
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The classification of figure type is an important component of the garment size standards since it relates to the coverage and practicality of the sizes.This paper makes a comparative study of the classification methods of figure type in the female garment size standards of China,America,Japan,German and ISO,carries out scientific classification using various methods and obtained anthropometric data,and compares the results by means of analysis of variance and principal component analysis to see which classification method is more reasonable.The result indicates that the domestic female garment classification of figure type is more scientific and practical.
Research on clothing consumption culture
NING Jun;MA Qian-li
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(7): 117-120.
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1374
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There is an obvious shortage of effective demand in the present domestic clothing market.The reason,for the greater part,is that the suppliers and the consumers have different understanding of the composition of clothing value.The aim of this paper is to explain the economic behavior of clothing consumption in terms of social and culture factors.It creates an entirely new concept of clothing consumption culture and expounds the theoretical basis and the main contents of the concept,which include views,psychology,aesthetics and act of clothing consumption.
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