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Table of Content
25 June 2006, Volume 27 Issue 6
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研究论文
Microstructures of electro-spun silk fibroin fiber
QIU Xin-wei;PAN Zhi-juan;SUN Dao-quan;ZHANG Lin-chun
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 1-4.
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Studied the influence of voltage and distance from spinneret to collecting screen on microstructures of electro-spun silk fibroin fiber with regenerated silk fibroin(SF)-formic acid as the spinning solution at the concentration of 9%.The results showed that 9% is an ideal concentration of SF-formic acid solution which has good spinnability when the distance is constant(10 cm) with varied voltage or the voltage is constant(12 kV) with varied the distance.When the distance is 10 cm,there is a complex change in molecular conformation of the fiber with the increase of voltage,and the variation rule of crystallinity is also in discorder.When the voltage is 12 kV,the molecular weight of random/α-helical conformation in the fiber increases with the increase of the distance,but the crystallinity increased only slightly,then decreases sharply.
Grafting metal phthalocyanine onto the cellulose fiber and its deodorizing effect
WANG Jin-qian;WEI Li-li;L Su-fang;ZHANG Li;CHEN Wen-xing
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 5-7.
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1212
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A) novel aqueous cobalt phthalocyanine was prepared by modification of cobalt tetraaminophthalocyanine with maleic anhydride and characterized by element analysis and FT-IR.Functional cellulose fibers were obtained by grafting metal phthalocyaniel(MPc) onto cellulose fibers,which can effectively remove methanthiol and ammonia at room temperature.The former was removed by the mechanism of catalytic oxidation, and the latter by the mechanism of neutralization.And the removal ratios after(2 h) were 69.7% and 97.6% respectively.
Study of silk fiber surface modification with D4 low temperature plasma
LI Yong-qiang;LIU Jin-qiang
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 8-11.
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958
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Silk fiber was treated with D4([(CH-3)-2SiO]-4) low-temperature plasma,and the variations in moisturizing capacity,anti-crease property,surface roughness and drapability of the treated silk fabric were examined.Testing methods such as SEM,EDS,and FTIR-ATR were used to study the effect of plasma treatment on the silk fiber microstructure and properties of the fabric.In addition,the mechanism of modification was also investigated.From the results it is showed that D4 plasma treatment can improve the inter-woven resistance,wrinkle resistance and softness of the treated silk fabric and impart it good water repellency property.
Measurement and reconstruction of 3D draping shape of woven fabric
SHEN Yi;LIU Xuan-mu;WANG Shou-bing
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 12-15.
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834
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A method to measure the 3D draping shape of woven fabrics by structure light is proposed.A series of black and white stripe occurred on the surface of the fabric by parallel structure light.The contour lines and edge of the fabric in projection image are detected based on polar coordinated radial scan algorithm,by which a series of points on the contour lines and edge of the fabric are obtained.Finally,three-dimensional draping shape of fabrics is reconstructed through 3D surface modeling technique based on the polar grids.Experiment results show that the proposed method can reconstruct ideally the 3D draping shape of fabrics.
研究探讨
Descartes ray and character of round-section fibers
ZHANG Yan-yan;ZHANG Hai-quan;WANG Shan-yuan
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 16-18.
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1054
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An analysis is made about Descartes rays of transparent round-section fibers——a special internal surface reflection rays of the fiber when parallel rays strike the fibers perpendicularly to fiber axis.Production principle,character and primary influence factors of Descartes ray are studied by experiments on the basis of theoretical analysis.It is proved that round-section fiber has Descartes rays,and its principle and characteristics are similar to the water drops producing the rainbow in the sun.
Influence of the water quality for retting on the hemp degumming effect
QIAN Wei-jun;FENG Xin-xing;CHEN Jian-yong
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 19-22.
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985
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Retting of the hemp was performed with fresh water and sea water separately,and their degumming effects were compared.The results revealed that both methods can reduce greatly the content of the pectin,wax and lignin except the hemicellulose.Although the degumming effect of sea water is inferior to that of fresh water,sea water retting can achieve fairly good effect in removing lignin.In consideration of environmental protection and saving fresh water,it is proposed that sea water can be used as a substitute for fresh water in hemp degumming via retting.
Structural characteristics of the Solospun yarn
WANG Ke-yi;YU Wei-dong
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 23-26.
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995
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The structure of Solospun yarn was discussed in respect to its longitudinal and un-twisted appearance characteristics and cross-sectional morphology.Compared with the conventional ring-spun yarn,the Solospun yarn has less and shorter hairiness,more compact inter-fiber entanglement,smoother surface and higher probability of fiber′s contact(PFC).This corresponds with its high break strength and abrasion resistance.However,it has bigger coefficient of variation values in breaking strength and elongation percentage.This is probably the cause of unevenness,more nubs and nips in the Solospun yarn.
Design of the thread guide mechanism of rotary blades
YANG Jian-cheng;JIANG Xiu-ming;ZHOU Guo-qing
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 27-31.
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824
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The thread guide mechanism of rotary blades belongs to the one of changing direction by relay,(i.e.,) the back and forth motion of yarns is guided by two rotary blades rotating in the opposite directions and as soon as the yarns travel to the end of the stroke,they change their directions through exchanging positions on the rotary blades.The thread guiding mechanism of several kinds of imported high speed take-up machines and precise winders is analyzed,and the design method of this kind of thread guide mechanism is proposed for the first time.General formulas for this design are derived and the design theory has been proven correct by illustrative examples.This design method and formulas may be used for reference in designing the same kind of mechanism.
Kinematical design and analysis of the six-bar beating-up mechanism with MAPLE
WANG Hao-cheng
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 32-35.
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950
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The Watt six-bar mechanism has been widely adopted as the beating-up mechanism of air-jet loom.The procedures of design and analysis of this mechanism is very complicated if individual graphic means or math analysis is used,So MAPLE was used in kinematical design and kinetic analysis of six-bar mechanism.The curve of the mechanism′s drive function is determined depending on the work required,preliminary selection of parameters of the mechanism is performed according to experience.Then,the above parameters are amended in the light of the actual curve of drive function which is plotted by MAPLE program on the basis of the results of computation.This method makes the dynamic analogue of the mechanism visual,along with graphs and numeric values resulting from the variation in motion parameters.Analytical results show that this method is universally suitable for kinetic analysis of other kinds of mechanism.
Fiber orientation of multidirectional filament winding prefabricated piece
JIANG Ya-ming;XIE Xia;QIU Guan-xiong;WANG Peng
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 36-40.
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1005
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Based on a winding cycle of filaments,a calculating model was proposed for the fiber orientation(including axial,radial and hoop orientation) of a unit cell of prefabricated piece of the multidirectional filament winding with focus on investigating the relationship between the fiber volume fraction of hoop orientation,fiber volume fraction of axial orientation and the process parameters such as the initial filament winding radius,the filament winding angle,and the fiber diameter.The curves of their relationship were plotted.The filament winding angle when the fiber volume fraction of hoop orientation was equal to that of axial orientation was calculated.This will provide a sound theoretical basis for the structural design and process design of prefabricated piece of multidirectional filament winding.
Fuzzy self-adjusting PID controller for affixture machine tension control
LI Ge;MEI Jing;ZHAO Yun;PAN Hai-peng
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 41-43.
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889
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This paper introduces the affixture machine tension control and its postulate.Since the affixture machine is a typical complicated,tandem driving,time changing and non-linear winding system,it is rather difficult to control constant tension.The traditional proportional-integral-differential (PID) controller can not meet the requirements,thus,a fuzzy adaptive PID tension controller is proposed for effective settlement of the problems of dynamic change of the non-linear system and the establishing of mathematic model.Through comparing the simulated curve of fuzzy PID with that of traditional PID,it can be seen that the fuzzy PID controller has better adaptability to the change of the winding radius than the traditional one.
Influence of low temperature oxygen plasma treatment on the wetting property of polyester/cotton blended fabric
WANG Hong-bo;HONG Jian-han;WANG Jin-yan;WEI Qu-fu
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 44-46.
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Polyester/cotton blended fabric was treated by oxygen plasma for improving its wetting property.The effect of plasma treatment on the wetting property of the polyester/cotton blended fabric was analyzed using the hygroscopic capacity/time curve plotted by means of CDCA-100F dynamic contact angle fiber tension-meter.The results indicated that the wetting property was significantly improved. Treatment conditions were varied as a function of power,duration and pressure of plasma treatment,and the correlation of wetting property and treatment conditions was found out.And it was observed that the most significant improvement of the wetting property of the polyester/cotton fabric occurs when the power is (100 W) with a pressure of(25 Pa) for 3 minutes.
Solubility and dyeing performance of disperse blue 79 in supercritical carbon dioxide
YU Zhi-cheng;LIN He-ming
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 47-50.
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997
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A new method of measurement for solubility of disperse dyes in supercritical carbon dioxide was designed and the solubility of disperse blue 79 was measured.The effect of temperature and pressure of supercritical carbon dioxide on the solubility of the dye and the relationship between solubility and K/S value has been also investigated.The results of experiments indicate the solubility of C.I.disperse blue 79 decreases with increasing of the temperature and increases when increasing pressure.The K/S value of the polyester fabrics increases when increasing the temperature or the pressure,which have nothing to do with the solubility of the dye.It was observed that C.I.disperse blue 79 partially melted in the condition of(130 ℃、)(22 MPa) and slowly circulation due to high pressure,which lowers the melting point.
Analysis on the factors influencing the accuracy of human photogrammetry
GUO Jing;ZHANG Hao;ZHENG Rong;HU Xiao-dan;DUAN Xiao-juan
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 51-54.
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In order to find out the factors influencing errors of photogrammetry and reduce them to the minimum,experimentations were carried out with three digital cameras which are representative in optical constitution and imaging quality,five different photographing distances and four objects.Then,the data obtained under different conditions was processed using qualitative analysis,quantitative analysis and validity check.From the results it can be concluded that the factors affecting the accuracy of human body photogrammetry include the optical constitution of the camera,manual operation,and subsequent measurement etc.Optical error is basically conformed to the law of spherical surface deformation.According to the analysis results the suggestion to choose suitable digital camera and optimize the measurement software for getting good results was brought forward.
Optimization of garment sewing lines scheduling based on virtual simulation
LOU Ya-fang;ZHANG Zu-fang
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 55-57.
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1018
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Garment sewing line is not a beeline,there are reverse working procedures.So common optimization goal may not be conformed with the one needed in garment production whose ultimate goal is to use the least actual work time for completion of a piece of job.This paper proposed that the optimized goal is the actual work time.The paper establishes a garment sewing lines scheduling by genetic algorithms and gets the least actual work time by virtual simulation.And its feasibility is verified by MatLab through programming and computation with actual examples.
测试分析
Spinnability of soybean protein/viscose blended solution
ZHANG Rui-wen;LIU Chi-qian;CHENG Bo-wen;XIAO Chang-fa
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 58-61.
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The soybean protein and viscose solutions were blended using the method of spun injection.The influence of protein content and temperature on the rheological curve,non-Newtonian flow index,structural viscosity index and spinnability of soybean protein/viscose blended solution was studied through researching the rheological behavior of the soybean protein/viscose blended solution. The results showed that soybean protein/viscose blended solution is a typical pseudoplastic fluid,and its non-Newtonian flow index drops as the soybean protein content increases.And as the protein content and temperature increase,its apparent viscosity decreases,structural viscosity index increases,and spinnability deteriorates.The phenomena that the viscosity of the blended solution decreases with raising of the temperature weakens over 30℃.
Elementary experiment of grafting soybean protein onto the surface of PAN fiber
YANG Yan-gong;JIA Zhao
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 62-63.
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1085
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This paper introduced the theoretical and experimental aspects of grafting soybean protein onto the surface of PAN fiber.The results indicated that through surface hydrolysis,acidchloride reaction and grafting,the protein grafting modified polyacrylonitrile(PAN) fiber was obtained.The elongation breaking strength of the grafted fiber was 1.9~(2.1 cN/dtex,) and the breaking extension was 25%~30%.SEM photographs showed that the surface of PAN fiber was wholly covered by a protein layer after grafting.This demonstrated that the modified PAN fiber with its surface covered by protein could be obtained by grafting protein onto the surface of PAN fiber.
Comparative analysis of dynamic and static breaking strength of yarns
ZHANG Yi;LIU Chang-ban
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 64-66.
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988
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A comparison was made between the testing principle of dynamic breaking strength and that of static breaking strength,and quantitative analysis of the test results was conducted via mathematic method.It was found that the dynamic strength of yarns was 20%~30% lower than that of the static.This shows that in evaluating yarn quality index,dynamic strength is more useful in practice. It also pointed out that use of CTT(constant tension transport) in testing dynamic strength of yarns can simulate,with different testing speeds,the yarn in use and can display the strength of weak points of yarn,more truly reflecting the strength state of yarn during production.
Effect of twist factor on structure and properties of rotor-spun composite yarns
ZHANG Xi-chang;ZHANG Hai-xia
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 67-70.
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920
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At two filament over-feed ratios,different kinds of rotor-spun composite yarns were produced by combining cotton fibers with polyester filaments under varying twisting factors.The yarn tensions were measured and the effects of twist factors on the structure and properties of rotor-spun composite yarns were investigated.Results show that twist factor has great influence on the characteristics of composite yarns at two filament over-feed ratios.The polyester filament in the composite yarn is twisted with the cotton strand and follows a helical path.When the filament tension increases with increasing yarn twist factors and decreasing filament over-feed ratio,the filament yarn tends to lie near the inner layer of the composite yarn and the properties of composite yarns will change accordingly.Compared with the normal rotor-spun yarn,the appearance of composite yarns is clearer,more compacted and the properties are improved.
Antibacterial property of the worsted fabric treated with chitosan and its derivatives
DENG Bing-yao;LU Na;YAO Jing;GAO Wei-dong
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 71-73.
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986
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This paper discussed the antibacterial effect of the worsted fabric treated with citric acid,chitosan and its derivatives,and the pictures of scanning electron microscopy(SEM) and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy(FTIR) were employed to study the crosslinking mechanism and antibacterial mechanism of the treated fabric.The results show that the worsted fabric after treatment keeps good antimicrobial activity against staphylococcus aureus and esaherichia coli after 20 laundering cycles.
Dyeing property of the modified wool fabric with superfine pigment
WANG Chao-xia;JI Wen-hua
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 74-77.
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1006
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The wool fabric was modified by cationic reagent and dyed with superfine pigment which was prepared by researchers themselves with anionic polymer disperser with exhaust method.The influence of pretreatment conditions such as concentration of cationic reagent,pH value of the bath,temperature and duration of treatment on the dyeing property of the fabric was studied.The results show that the dry and wet rubbing fastness of the wool fabric dyed with pigment via exhaustion is gray scale ratings of 3~4 and 4 respectively.The tensile strength and elongation at break decrease slightly with the increase of bath pH value.The test results of bending rigidity and hysteresis of bending reveal that the wool fabric has soft handle and good elasticity.
应用技术
Influence of dropping scales of E7/6 comber on process performance
REN Jia-zhi;JIA Guo-xin
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 78-80.
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1033
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The detaching distance is an important parameter for adjusting comber noil and combing quality.Since the rocking of the nipper shaft causes the nippers to move backward and forward through a series of links,the original position of nipper frame is altered when changing the detaching distance,resulting in the change of other process parameters of the comber.The paper elucidates the low of opening-closing of nipper,the timing of cylinder′s combing,the timing of detaching-lapping and the changing law of nip pressure,as calculated and analyzed by computer,in different detaching distance on E7/6 comber.
Twisting and tensile strength of ring-spun yarn
NIE Yu-hong;YUAN Bin-yu
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 81-83.
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1109
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This paper described the state of breaking elongation of the ring-spun yarn and analyzed the role of twist in the ring-spun yarn and the force acting on fibers of the yarn under tensile load.It is considered that the resolution and transformation of this force as a result of existence of twist is an important contributing factor which enhances the bearing capacity for tensile load of the yarn,thus enheancing its tensile strength.A new concept of critical twist is proposed: the tensile component force at the fiber in yarn axis under tensile load is equal to the tensile strength of the fiber,simultaneouly the shearing component force on the surface layer fiber is equal to the shearing strength of the fiber.
Water and oil repellent treatment of wool with a novel crosslinking agent at low temperature
WEN Shui-ping
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 84-87.
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1035
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This paper made a brief review on the water and oil repellent treatment of wool fabric and its mechanism.Using a novel crosslinking agent WR 40 and Advanproof WRC-LT,a new process was developed,which was suitable for low temperature crosslinking finish of wool for water and oil repellency.The optimum process conditions were determined by experiments,and through comparative study of the results,it is considered using this new process as a substitute for the traditional one of high temperature curing for water and oil repellent finish of wool to render it durable water and oil repellency and soil resistance.It is energy saving and worthy for promotion of use.
Development of a new pile blanket with different face on the back
JIN Yong-an;JIANG Sheng;HOU Cui-fang;ZHANG ping
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 88-90.
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855
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This article deals with the development of a pile blanket with different face on the back.The pile blanket was woven with pure cotton and real silk as fleece yarns.A new weave was designed so that part of cotton yarns could be drawn out from the side with piles to the other side with no piles so as to fabricate a pile blanket whose one side is cotton pile and the other is silk pile.The production method,weave and specifications of the product were discussed.Its manufacture procedure and chief parameters such as loom speed,warp tension,shedding time and so on were discussed,providing a guideline for development of this kind of pile blanket.
Influence of looming draft design on products
ZHANG Guo-hui
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 91-93.
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822
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The design of looming draft has great impact on both production and product quality.This paper analyzed the influence of designs of the reeding of towel,the interlacing points beside the dividing line on union fabric,and the beginning position of weft of leno brocade on products.The effect of design of the disposition of interlacing points on the development of colored yarn was also investigated.The result indicates that it will make the loop warp receive less frictional force to settle the basic warp between two loop warps and insert the warp through the dent while the ratio of basic warp to loop warp is 1∶2 in the towel;the different interlacing points should be set at two sides of dividing line as far as possible in the weave diagram of union fabric;when different colors are desired on back and face of the fabric,the long floats on the face should be able to cover the nearby short floats on the back in the weaving diagram;the crossing ends should be
Development of the single-side moisture transported and dry-fast fabric
WU Ye-fang;HE Tian-hong;YAO Jin-bo;GUO Jun-wei;LIANG Cheng-biao
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 94-96.
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1008
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The most favorable feature of moisture transported and dry-fast fabric is that they can satisfy the demand of comfort and healthcare of the people.Single-side moisture transported cotton fabric has been designed through single-side finishing so that the dry-fast property will be imparted to it.Its thermal resistance and moisture-vapor resistance drop considerably in relation to the cotton fabrics of same specifications.Water or sweat transports from the finishing side of this fabric to the other side,quickly disperses and evaporates,this keeps inner surface of the fabric dry.The frictional resistance and washability of the finishing fabric have been tested,and the results show that it has good durability,i.e.,durable single-side moisture transporting property.
Hydraulic transmission CAD system for textile machinery design
AN Xiang-dong
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 97-99.
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1001
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A hydraulic transmission CAD system that was developed under the environment of AutoCAD was discussed.It put forward a new concept of design on hydraulic transmission technology,and makes the modernized,high-efficient and high quality design of hydraulic transmission possible.The application of hydraulic transmission CAD system to textile machinery design includes hydrostatics calculation,hydrokinetics calculation,hydraulic component calculation,hydraulic component query,hydraulic system drawing etc.It raised the design quality and efficiency of the hydraulic design for textile machinery and brings great convenience and economic benefits for textile machinery enterprises.
综合述评
Development and application of the activated carbon fiber in China
LI Yong-gui;ZHAO Miao;LIANG Ji-xuan
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 100-103.
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Because of its excellent absorption capacity and application value,the activated carbon fiber(ACF) has become a hot topic being studied.However,its production scale is small and practical application is limited in China.For the purpose of further research and promoting its use, its development and application in recent years was reviewed,and the cause that hinders its development was analyzed.It was showed that factors seriously impeding the application of ACF include small production scale,high cost of production and application,and inadequacy in research depth and application promotion.It is suggested that the regenerating technology of ACF be the key for research,applied study be strengthened,and the performance-price ratio enhanced,so as to promote its application.
Bio-degradable function of water-soluble high molecule size
HONG Yao
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 104-106.
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870
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Having discussed biodegradability of PVA,polyacrylic acids size,and sizing agents,the paper summarizes: raw starch and polyacrylamide size exhibit better biodegradability,and PVA is most difficult for biodegradation.Other sizes will cause contamination to some extent to the ecology.Most of the sizing agents are surfactants,among them,in the case of the hydrophobic ones,longer the carbon chain,more difficult to biodegrade,and the straight chain structure has better biodegradability than the branch one.For solving the problem of hard degradation of PVA,a new generation of biodegradation enzymes has been developed,which can fast biodegrade PVA waste liquor.
Development strategy for Beijing apparel industry
NING Jun;CHEN Gui-ling;LI Shu-zhen;LU Ya-xin
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 107-110.
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1045
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With the development of economic globalization,the apparel industry of Beijing is confronted with fiercer regional competition.One common question facing different regions is how to promote its competitive power and occupy a favorable position in the world economic development.The positioning and development strategy of the apparel industry play a significant role in promoting industrial competitive strength,developing regional economy,and raising the all-round national competitive power.Having presented the positioning of Beijing apparel industry,make an extensive and in-depth investigation and analysis of the foundation of Beijing apparel industry,the market potential and the regional planning.A feasible development strategy for Beijing apparel industry is brought forward in the light of strategic development theory.
Study on purple clothing in the Tang Dynasty
CAO Zhe;SUN Ye
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 111-115.
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1320
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Purple clothing was only for high class officials in the Tang Dynasty. The strict regulations of dressing purple were enacted by the governor.The article made a discussion on the regulations of dressing purple in the Tang Dynasty.The emperor awarded purple or crimson clothing to the ministers or subordinates who had performed meritorious service,this was a particular regulation from the Tang Dynasty.Later,the scope of awarding became wider and wider,and some who were not qualified also put on purple clothing.This was so called borrowing color.Though there was strict regulation on dressing color,a lot of people violated it.Even forbiddances put forward by the emperor could not stop the violations.The article also discussed how the purple looked like in the Tang Dynasty, and argued that the purple might be dark-blue-purple.
论文
Study on the agile and customized manufacturing of the garment enterprise cluster
LI Guo-fu;YE Fei-fan;XU Xue-hong
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(6): 116-120.
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527
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