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Table of Content
15 January 2006, Volume 27 Issue 1
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研究论文
Tensile strength loss of polymerization-crosslinking treated cotton fabrics
ZHAO Min;ZHOU Xiang
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 1-4.
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812
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Cotton fabrics were treated with maleic acid/itaconic acid(MA/IA) or MA alone by an in-situ polymerization-crosslinking method to improve their wrinkle resistance.The relationship between tensile strength and wrinkle recovery angle or amount of ester-linkages was determined.The factor ofBSLFwas proposed to indicate the extent of strength loss for a treated fabric.The results of linear regression show that a high degree of linear correlation exists between the amount of ester-linkages and the tensile strength retention(or the wrinkle recovery angle) of the treated fabrics,and so does it between the tensile strength and the wrinkle recovery angle of the fabrics.The mathematic relationship between the line slope andBSLFwas deduced.Compared with the line slope,theBSLFfactor can be obtained conveniently,so it may be an alternative to indicate the extent of strength loss for a particular wrinkle-free finishing system.
Effect of volume fraction on the flexural property of fabric reinforced cement matrix composites
YU Qiao-zhen
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 5-8.
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1036
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Fabric reinforced cement matrix composites with different volume fractions were prepared with the alkali-free glass fiber woven fabric.Three point bending test and analysis of digital photograph of sectional contour were used to study the effect of the volume fraction of the fabric on the flexural property of woven fabric reinforced cement matrix composites.The results show that as the volume fraction of woven fabric increases from 1% to 5%,there is no obvious change in the load-deflection curves and elastic modulus of the glass fiber woven fabric reinforced cement matrix composites,and the flexural strength in the warp increases from 8.5 MPa to 17.8 MPa,and in the weft,from 8.1 MPa to 17.2 MPa,but the increment disagrees with the mix law of the fiber reinforced polymer matrix composites.The breaking energy increases from 0.53 kJ/m2to 1.89 kJ/m2 and a greater margin of increase is observed.
A new method of measuring the stitch length of weft knitted fabric
CHEN Li;SONG Guang-li
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 9-11.
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1003
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It is essential to measure the stitch length of the weft knitted fabric in a static environment forsaving cost and improving productivity.The image inputted is dealt with the digital image processingtechniques:carrying out the transformation of grey scale;removing impurities with media filtering;abstractingthe character of the stitchlength with Fouriertransformtechnique;inducingtransformformula between2Dand3Dof stitch′s geometric model;and gettingthe value of the stitchlength.This provides a newmethodfor non-destructive measurement of the stitchlength.
Weaving principle and design of the annular shaped woven fabrics
GUO Xing-feng;LIU Chun-yang;WANG Rui;LI Feng-qiang
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 12-15.
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1092
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This paper mainly devoted to the weaving principle and design of the annular shaped fabrics.The let-off and take-up mechanisms of the weaving machine were modified.The creel let-off mechanism could meet the requirement of unequal warp yarn length of this fabric.The round table shaped roller was able to control the taking-up of the formed cloth in the loom,as well as the shape and structure of the fabric.The weft yarns went in the direction of the generatrix of the round table shaped roller and the warp ends along its circumference.There were two types of design of annular shaped fabrics: with uneven filling density and with even filling density.The weaving of the fabrics with uneven filling density was simple but it had unevenly distributed structure.Weaving the fabric with even filling density required rather complex shedding mechanism.Its filling yarns were divided into the long picks and the short ones,the former interlaced with all warp yarns,whereas the latter interlaced with only part of the warp yarns.The pick repeat in a complete weave,as well as the distribution of the short picks among the long ones,should be properly designed so as to obtain an even fabric structure.
Quantitative relationship between oxidative decoloration property and molecular structure of azo dyes
DONG Yong-chun;LIU Chun-yan;LIU Rui-hua;ZHU Hong-xing;YU Cai-xiang
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 16-19.
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901
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The oxidative decoloration of 35 anionic water-soluble azo dyes was carried out by using photo-catalytic system based on ferrioxalate complexes(Ⅲ)/H2O2.The quantitative relationship between the decoloration rate and molecular structure of azo dyes was studied by selection of molecular descriptors and multi-linear regression analysis.The results indicate that good linear correlations exist between decoloration rate of azo dyes and their molecular descriptors,in particular,MW/S and number of azo groups have most prominent contribution to the decoloration rate.The equation of quantitative relationship between decoloration rate of azo dyes and their molecular descriptors derived may be used for calculation of predicted decoloration rate.
研究探讨
Grey system analysis on raw ramie and the quality of its yarn
LI Xiao-feng
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 20-22.
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934
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It is proposed that the relationship between the fiber quality of raw ramie and the quality of its yarn may be expressed by the grey system.And the grey system analysis method was described and used to determine the effect of ramie fiber quality on the quality of its yarn and found that its influence on the yarn quality was in the order: the strength of the fiber > the diameter of the fiber> the length of the fiber.This finding is consistent with practical observations and shows that the grey system analysis provides a better method for parametrical analysis of ramie yarn quality.
Tensile behaviour of the Kevlar fiber in critical environments
HUANG Gu
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 23-26.
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1012
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Kevlar fibers were subjected to the exposure of the ultraviolet radiation and the treatment of sulphuric acid,NaOH,and NaCl with various concentrations and under different temperature respectively.Tensile strength of the treated fiber was tested.It was found that the tensile strength of the treated fiber was greatly reduced.The research also revealed that NaOH,sulphuric acid and NaCl solution with certain concentrations would cause serious damage to the Kevlar fiber.
Design of the driving system of loom′s warp beam
CHEN Ge;GUO Yu-qing;LIN Shen
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 27-29.
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968
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It has become a main developing trend of the loom that the electronic let-off mechanism substitutes the mechanical one.This paper introduced the design of the driving system of a warp beam in which a step-motor was adopted as the let-off motor.By comparing DC,AC and step-motors and analyzing the driving characteristics of the warp beam,a conclusion was drawn that a higher performance to price ratio could be got when a step-motor was selected for the warp beam.The accelerating and decelerating of the step_motor during weaving and its driving principle were discussed,and the calculating method for parameters of the mechanical driving system was expounded with examples.
Development of the control system of automatic flat knitting machine based on μC/OS-Ⅱ embedded technology
Lu Jian-fei;FU Jian-zhong;LIU Dan
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 30-33.
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1142
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A new control system of the fully automatic flat knitting machine developed based onμC/OS-Ⅱ embedded technology was introduced,and the functional requirements of the flat knitting machine and execution of its control system were analyzed.This system used a 32-bit ARM microprocessor and an expander as the hardware carriers and theμC/OS-Ⅱas the real time operation system.It adopted the design of multi-tasks,and realized the task scheduler by its priority and communications between tasks with theμC/OS-Ⅱoperation system.
Novel activation method using chemical plating on the fabric
LAI Dong-zhi;CHEN Wen-xing;YAO Yue-fei;LIU Guan-feng
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 34-37.
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A new activation method using chemical plating was adopted,i.e.,nickelous sulfate was reduced by NaBH4which had been absorbed on the cotton so that nickel was adhered to the cotton,thus forming the activation center.SEM and EDS studies showed that absorbed on the cotton surface are nickleous monomers that have catalytic activity and can effectively initiate chemical nickel-plating reaction on the surface of cotton.
Study on polymerization of acrylic modified polyurethane soap-free emulsion
YANG Jian-jun;WU Qing-yun;ZHANG Jian-an;WU Ming-yuan;ZHEN Hai-ting;WANG Gui-qin
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 38-41.
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996
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An aqueous polyurethane-polyacrylate hybrid emulsion was prepared by soap-free emulsion polymerization of aqueous polyurethane emulsion with C C double bond modified with acrylic monomer through grafting copolymerization.The morphology and properties of composite particles of the prepared emulsion were studied with IR and TEM etc.The influences of reaction temperature,amount of initiator and agitating rate on grafting copolymerization were investigated.Compared with the unmodified polyurethane emulsion,the particle size of the prepared emulsion became larger significantly and its tensile strength,resistance to water and solvent were remarkably improved.
Preprocessing of 3D body data before statistic analysis
QI Jing;ZHANG Xin
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 42-45.
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962
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The preprocessing of body data that should be done before statistic analysis was introduced,pointing out its importance and necessity.Analytical methods such as descriptive analysis,normal distribution verification,singular value checking,processing of missing values,reliability analysis and paired-samplest test were described with illustrations and their results were explained.
Establishment of the data warehouse system oriented to the textile enterprise
ZHANG Xiao-qian;GU Xin-jian;PAN Xu-wei;GE Chang-yue
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 46-49.
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908
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Data warehouse is the technology that helps people find potential information and knowledge from plenty of data and support the management′s decision making process.This paper described the normal infrastructure of the data warehouse and the modeling method and discussed the application of the data warehouse technology in textile enterprises.And on the basis of the incremental development approach of data warehouse,several data marts were constructed.The data mart for foreign trade was illustrated with practical examples.
Development of modular design and manufacture of apparel
LI Ke-jing;CUI Shi-zhong
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 50-53.
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1180
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By analyzing the standardization and modularization of clothing manufacture,the fast design and production of apparel could be realized based on modular design,product group application,systematical apparel processing technique,and standard organization.The modular design and manufacture system for rapid response of clothing production was developed,its function covered fast design of production procedure and flow line balance,and share of data resources.For this purpose,the fundamental works that should be done included determination of all process parameters at the standard working conditions,decomposition of the tailoring and assembling processes,induction of various processing plans and establishment of corresponding database,setting up the relevancy between data groups,etc.The practicality of the system and further research direction were also discussed.
Research on quick response of apparel supply chain for collaboration
PAN Xu-wei;GU Xin-jian;HAN Yong-sheng;CHENG Yao-dong
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 54-57.
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High stock and low customer service level(CSL) is a common problem existing in Chinese garment enterprises.An effective way to solve the problem is to establish a mechanism of quick response of apparel supply chain for collaboration.This paper analyzed the causes of the problem,set forth solution methods,and discussed the related matters including apparel design,product development,logistics,distribution and IT.
测试分析
Synthesis and physical properties of amidoxime fiber containing bimetal coordination complex
WANG Xue-qian;WU Zhi-chuan;TAO Ting-xian;XU Mao-dong
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 58-61.
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1125
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A series of bimetal coordination complex fibers with different content of metal were prepared by controlling the concentration of metal ions and reaction time.Physical properties such as the breaking strength,elongation at break,initial modulus and moisture regain of the single metal and bimetal coordination complexes with different metal concentrations were tested respectively.The results indicate that the breaking strength,elongation at break are closely related to the metal concentration in coordination complexes.When the metal concentration becomes very low,their values are less than those of polyacrylonitrile(PAN).As the metal concentration increases,they are correspondent to those of PAN.Compared with PAN,the bimetal coordination complex has increased moisture regain but decreased initial modulus.The bimetal coordnation complex has good spinnability.
Mechanical properties of functional nano-nylon fiber
MA Jian-wei;LIU Wei;CHEN Shao-juan
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 62-64.
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1310
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An investigation of the effect of nano-material on the mechanical properties of nano-nylon fiber was carried out,and a comparative study between the nano-nylon,photo-electronic nylon and ordinary nylon was made in terms of the strength,elongation rate,breaking energy,initial modulus,relaxation and elastic recovery.The experiments showed that in compared with the ordinary nylon,the nano-nylon has lower strength,elongation rate,and breaking energy but higher initial modulus and elastic recovery.They have similar curves of relaxation of stress.The sun light has little influence on nano-nylon’s breaking strength and elongation rate while its initial modulus has been impacted greatly.In respect to the relaxation velocity,the sunlight has greater influence on nano-nylon than on the ordinary nylon.
Influence of surface treatment of PAN on its thermal and pre-oxidation properties
YANG Yan-gong;WANG Hou-de;JIA Zhao
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 65-67.
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1044
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The thermal and pre-oxidation properties of the dry spinning PAN with and without surface treatment were analyzed and compared.DTA study showed that the surface treatment could greatly reduce the thermal release temperature of the fiber and greatly ease the centralized thermal release.Oxidation experiment demonstrated that the fiber after surface treatment was pre-oxidized at the temperature of 240~250℃and thus obtained a pre-oxidized textile fiber with the strength of 1.7 ~ 1.9 cN/dtex,elongation 19% ~ 22% and Limiting Oxygen Index(LOI) 36%~49%,whereas the dry spinning PAN without surface treatment was out of the feasibility to prepare the pre-oxidized fiber.
Pupa protein silk grafted on viscose filament yarn in HIO_3 media
ZHOU Xiao-hua;YANG Liang-zuo;LUO Hui;CHEN Ming-tuo
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 68-71.
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Grafting of pupa protein on oxidative viscose filament yarn was carried out with HIO3at pH value= 5.0,30℃for 2 h.The dosage of HIO3was 0.08 g/g viscose filament yarn.Its grafting percentage was 35.1%.The cross-linking treatment of the grafted silk was conducted with 10% glyoxal at 30℃,pH=4.0 for 3 h,thereby obtained milk white grafted silk with pupa protein content of 5.24% and single fiber breaking strength of 2.9 N,that is only 8% lower than that of viscose filament yarn.No pupa protein released in acetic acid or in NaHCO3solution with pH value= 3.50 or 9.50 respectively.Infrared spectrum analysis showed that the grafted silk has a special absorption of Schiff bases and has a brilliant shade when dyed with methyl red.
Regression analysis of the subjective assessment of cotton fabric handle
CAO Jian-da;CHEN Ren-hao
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 72-74.
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1019
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A method was adopted of stepwise regression of doubling screening to analyze the 16 mechanical factors of the KES-FB test results affecting the subjective assessment index of the fabric handle,among which,the insignificant factors would be omitted and the significant ones reserved.4 regressive prediction models were established,and the established models were used to return the measure so as to evaluate the subjective assessment index of the fabric handle exactly.
应用技术
Degumming and dyeing of pineapple leaf fiber
HUANG Xiao-hua;SHEN Ding-quan
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 75-77.
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1732
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This article investigated the effect of different degumming processes on the physical properties of pineapple leaf fiber.Pineapple leaf finer was modified by concentrated NaOH solution.Cotton,ramie,modified and unmodified pineapple leaf fibers were dyed with reactive dyes respectively.The results of experiments showed that the dyeing behavior of the pineapple leaf fiber is between those of cotton and ramie.Modified pineapple leaf fiber has better adsorption and building-up on reactive dyes and can be dyed medium to deep shades with reactive dyes.
Dyeing of the soybean protein/PVA hybrid fiber with reactive dyes in denaturated bath
JIANG Yan;SUI Shu-ying;JIANG Li
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 78-79.
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1159
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When dyeing fiber in alkali bath,part of reactive dyes will be hydrolyzed and then become inactivated.Since the inactivated dyes have a similar structure to that of acid dyes,they can be utilized to re-dye the fiber by changing the power of hydrogen of the dyeing bath,so called the denaturated bath.This dyeing process can enhance the dye up-take rate and reduce the discharge load of effluent.Experiments show that good result has been achieved when the bi-component soybean protein/PVA hybrid fiber is dyed by the denaturated bath of reactive dyes.
Mechanism structure and control system of 6144 pin electric jacquard
SHEN Wei;WU Qin-tong
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 80-82.
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1387
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The large jacquard indicates the level of manufacture and application of a jacquard trade.An introduction of QH6144 jacquard addressed the key technologies of mechanism structure and control system,new supporting structure,adjustable openings,and execution of interface of the jacquard and the loom based on communication agreement.
Modification of Malimo stitch-knitting machine for parallel weft insertion
ZHANG Ying-chun;JIANG Xiu-ming;HAN Xu-tong
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 83-88.
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1210
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To meet the changing needs of product upgrading,a technological modification was performed on the present Malimo stitch-knitting machine imported from German by installing a parallel double-crank mechanism on the weft insertion device so that the residence time of the weft insertion device was prolonged.PLC controlled pneumatic executing mode was affected by means of the electromechanical integration modification.Thus,the weft insertion devices operated accurately,coordinately and reliably,meeting the requirements of parallel weft insertion by the least possible modification of the original equipment.
Reinforcement fabric knitting machine for plastic pressure hose
GU Da-qiang;NIE Lin
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 86-88.
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930
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A new reinforcement fabric knitting technology for plastic pressure hose was introduced.Weft knitting technology was adopted in knitting the reinforcing layer and a new type of reinforcing fabric knitting machine for plastic pressure hose was developed.The knitting equipment and technique can effectively avoid fiber slippage on the reinforced layer,and improve the strength,flexibility and other mechanical properties of the plastic pressure hose.
Research on antimicrobial finishing of cotton fabrics with a citric acid and chitosan
WANG Jian-gang;WANG Ya-li;GE Ming-qiao;GAN Ying-jin;CHEN Dong-sheng
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 89-92.
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1360
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Aiming at the application of citric acid and chitosan in antimicrobial finishing for cotton fabrics,the effect of the chitosan concentration on the antimicrobial property of the cotton fabric,the content of polycarboxylic acid on the fixation rate of chitosan and the curing temperature on the fixation rate of chitosan and whiteness of the fabric were investigated.The properties of the treated cotton fabric are tested,and the results showed that anitmicrobial finishing effect of the cotton fabric treated with citric acid and chitosan are evident.The durable press and wrinkle recovery angle of the treated cotton fabric have improved,and despite repeated launderings,over 80% of the antimicrobial effect remained.
Ultrasonic wave aided enzymatic washing of reactive dyed fabrics
WANG Ju-ping;YIN Jia-min;PENG Zhao-qing;ZHANG Feng
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 93-95.
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1050
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Enzymatic washing of the reactive dyed fabrics aided by ultrasonic wave was proposed,and the optimal process conditions were determined through experiments: temperature,50℃;enzyme concentration,0.15 g/L;liquor ratio,1∶20;and time of treatment,8 min.Compared with the conventional soaping and enzymatic washing under these conditions,this ultrasonic wave aided enzymatic washing process can cut down the dosage of enzyme,improve color fastness,simplify the process,and widen the applicable range of enzymatic washing.
Improvement of the blackening of C.I.Reactive Black 5
CHEN Rong-qi
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 96-98.
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1197
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Among the reactive dyes,Reactive Black 5(Reactive Black KN-B) is the most versatile dye with the largest production volume.But its main drawback is not black enough.About ten years ago,Reactive Orange 82 was formulated using the principle of complementary color,the blackening was improved.However,some problem still remained.Improving the blackening of Reactive Black 5 is one of the hot topics under research,and the orientation is to select an orange or red reactive dye which has high solubility,and is substantive,reactive and compatible to Reactive Black 5.
Application of nano-TiO_2 on textile finishing
YANG Jun-ling
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 99-102.
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1240
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The action mechanism of nano TiO2in the antibacterial and UVR(ultraviolet radiation) resistant finishing of textile and its application on pure cotton fabric were discussed.The results of testing indicated that the cotton fabrics after treatment can inhibit staphylococcus aureus and colibacillus 100% and white coccomycin > 90% after 30 launderings.The UV transmittance of both the dyed and undyed fabrics after treatment is 5%,reaching the minimum saturation degree.Nano TiO2can impart textiles good antibacterial and UVR resistant properties and has little effect on their serviceability.
Study on the pattern design of bra
LI Xiu-ying
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 103-106.
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1439
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Based on the three-dimensional cutting pattern design of full-cup bra for the disc shape breast,four kinds of shapes of women’s breast———disc,hemisphere,taper and flagging shapes as well as the influence of the elastic fabric on the bra pattern were analyzed.Research was conducted to improve the fitting of bra patterns for each kind of breast figures: altering the pattern size of the lower or upper cup,or altering the back pattern size,the bra will have the effect of supporting up the breasts and making their contours fully displayed.It makes the bra more perfect in pattern structure,more comfortable to wear,and graceful in figure,all these are desired by the female.
Application prospect of nanofibers
ZHONG Zhi-li;WANG Xun-gai
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 107-110.
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New manufacturing techniques of nanofibers and the prospect of applications of typical nanofibers are reviewed.It points out that textile nanofiber,solid-core carbon nanofiber,biodegradable nanofiber,and conductive hybrid nanofibers of polymers can be manufactured by the electrostatic spinning process,and their diameters are dependent on the spinning technological parameters.Electrostatic spinning is the most important way of making nanofibers and most hopeful for realizing the commercial production of nanofibers.
Comparative study of the properties of alginate and chitosan fibers
QIN Yi-min
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 111-113.
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Alginate and chitosan can be made into fibers through the wet spinning process and further converted into nonwoven,woven,and knitted fabrics that find use in medical area.The chemical structures of alginate and chitosan were analyzed,and a comparative study was conducted of the absorbability,metal ion binding ability and antimicrobial property of alginate and chitosan fibers.
Research and development of shape memory polymers for textiles
HU Jin-lian;LIU Xiao-xia
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 114-116.
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988
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This paper introduces the applications of shape memory fibers and fabrics and gives a review on the research and development of such fibers and fabrics using shape memory polymers.In particular,the shape memory effect of fabrics finished by shape memory polymer emulsion is described.
Analysis of symbolization characteristics in the spread of fashion culture
ZENG Qi;FU Shi-shen;MEI Fang;YE Jiao
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2006, 27(1): 117-120.
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From the point of semeiology and disseminating theory,this paper analyzes the symbolization characteristics in the spread of fashion culture and the causation.The modern fashion media using a verbal and/or non-verbal symbol conveys various kinds of fashion images and fashion culture to the public,and they accept and comprehend the meaning of these symbols and take an attitude with symbolization characteristics.And in turn,they act as mass media and carrier of fashion apparel and fashion culture.It points out the important value of study of the symbols in fashion culture spread in modern fashion design,marketing,and consumption.
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