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Table of Content

    15 December 2005, Volume 26 Issue 6
    • 科研报告
      Study on the phase change behavior of two component polyethylene glycol system
      WANG Wei-ling;YU Wei-dong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  1-4. 
      Abstract ( 926 )   PDF (134KB) ( 442 )   Save
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      Differential scanning calorimetry(DSC) was used to study the constant rate heating and cooling and the isothermal crystallizing behavior of the two component PEG system.The characteristic parameters at different temperatures were examined and the heat of exotherms and endotherms was measured.
      Probe to the mechanism of desizing of PVA by atmospheric pressure plasma
      CAI Zai-sheng;QIU Yi-ping;Marian McCord
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  5-8. 
      Abstract ( 998 )   PDF (172KB) ( 422 )   Save
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      On the basis of measuring PVA's weight loss and the change of dissolution rate of PVA size in water after plasma treatment at atmospheric pressure,a comparison of desizing between the plasma treatment and the traditional H<sub>2</sub>O<sub>2</sub> method was made.XPS and FT-IR analyses of PVA films showed that plasma action led to some PVA molecules oxidized into some molecules such as CO<sub>2</sub>,H<sub>2</sub>O which disappeared in the air and the other part of PVA was oxidized and degraded to ones with shorter chains,thus increasing the swelling and dissolving properties of PVA size.
      Three-region method of color matching for fluorescent whitening agents
      LI Rong;GU Feng;CHEN Dong-hui
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  9-12. 
      Abstract ( 839 )   PDF (133KB) ( 398 )   Save
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      Since fluorescent whitening agent(FWA) has unique optical properties,its color matching for fabrics is difficult.The researchers developed the color matching method of FWA through analyzing its reflectance curve and utilizing a computation formula of the reflectance of fluorescent dyes in the emission region and put forward the three-region (emission,absorption and unaffected) method of color matching.It was proved by dyeing experiments of 20 samples of mixed colors and relative computation that this color matching method is suitable for FWA.The operation is simple and convenient and the maximum color difference is 3.94 CIELAB1976 units.
      Permeability and mechanical properties of airbag fabrics
      WANG Xin-hou
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  13-14. 
      Abstract ( 1016 )   PDF (101KB) ( 866 )   Save
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      The air permeability and biaxial stress-strain relation of airbag fabrics were investigated at a pressure difference ranging from 0 to 50 kPa.It was found that the permeability of the airbag fabrics increases with pressure drop,and there is a prominent linear relationship between the two.However,the biaxial stress-strain relationship of airbag fabrics shows non-linear.
      Fabric smoothness grade assessment based on fuzzy pattern recognition
      YANG Xiao-bo
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  15-18. 
      Abstract ( 829 )   PDF (120KB) ( 517 )   Save
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      The basic principle of fuzzy pattern recognition was briefly introduced with focus on fuzzy rules and fuzzy inference system.The algorithm procedure of fuzzy pattern recognition and application of Mamdani fuzzy model to fabric smoothness grade assessment were discussed,and the liability of fuzzy pattern recognition was verified by the correlation coefficient between subject and object evaluation.
      分析探讨
      Effect of oxidative additives on thermal degradation of chitin
      ZHU Xin-sheng;CHENG Jia-qi;LI Xiao-jian
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  19-21. 
      Abstract ( 922 )   PDF (109KB) ( 411 )   Save
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      Thermal and thermo-oxidative degradation of chitin with ammonium nitrate,ammonium sulfate and concentrated sulfuric acid were studied.Ammonium nitrate accelerated both thermal degradation and thermo-oxidative degradation,and ammonium sulfate and concentrated sulfuric acid promoted the thermo-oxidative degradation,but delayed thermal degradation.All of these three additives changed the condensed phase products of chitin after isothermal treatment.
      Micro morphology and inclusion mechanism of the fragrance microcapsule of β-cyclodextrin
      Micro morphology and inclusion mechanism of the fragrance microcapsule of β-cyclodextrin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  22-24. 
      Abstract ( 1215 )   PDF (225KB) ( 1205 )   Save
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      β-cyclodextrin molecules can form complexes with fragrance oils such as lavender,rosemary,and santalum to obtain fragrance microcapsule which possesses of the property of controlling fragrance-release rate.Since β-cyclodextrin has no any side effect to the human body and is environmentally friendly,its fragrance microcapsule can impart fragrance to textile and is safe.The micro morphology of microcapsule was rhombus and pin crystals observed by UV-M optical microscope and SEM.The mechanism of inclusion preparation was proved by IR.Meanwhile,the forming process of fragrance microcapsule was analyzed from the viewpoint of thermodynamics and solution degree.
      Research on the performances of differential shrinking wool-like polyester filament yarn
      WANG Hua-yin;HU Guo-liang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  25-26. 
      Abstract ( 1006 )   PDF (148KB) ( 334 )   Save
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      When polyester fiber is subject to different draw ratio and heating temperature during high speed spinning,it will result in changes of the original molecular orientation and crystallinity of the fiber,thus affecting its physical properties.This paper investigated the physical properties of polyester filament yarn such as tenacity,elongation and boiled water shrinkage by means of analyzing the POY which had been treated by different draw ratio and heating temperature.
      Influence of filament over-feed ratio on appearance and structure of rotor spun composite yarns
      ZHANG Hai-xia;XUE Yuan;WANG Shan-yuan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  27-29. 
      Abstract ( 954 )   PDF (125KB) ( 500 )   Save
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      The spinning principle of rotor spun composite yarns was discussed and different kinds of rotor spun composite yarns with different appearance and structures were produced by combining staple fibers with filament yarns under varying filament over-feed ratio on a modified open-end rotor spinning frame.The effect of filament over-feed ratio on the appearance and structure of composite yarns have been studied.Results showed that filament over-feed ratio has great influence on the filament geometric position and helix trajectory in composite yarns.
      科研报告
      Study on the second nozzle structural parameters of air-jet spinning
      XING Ming-jie;YU Chong-wen;TANG Dian-hua;LIU Zheng-qin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  30-32. 
      Abstract ( 1063 )   PDF (106KB) ( 409 )   Save
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      The second nozzle structural parameters of air-jet spinning machine mainly include the nozzle length,nozzle inside diameter,jet orifice obliquity,jet orifice number,jet orifice diameter,and inside diameter of yarn intake.This paper discussed the effect of these structural parameters on yarn strength and presented the optimal parameters obtained from experiments.
      分析探讨
      Designing fabric patterns based on Logistic mapping in polar coordinates
      ZHANG Yu;WANG Yi;ZHANG Hua-xiong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  33-34. 
      Abstract ( 1040 )   PDF (119KB) ( 316 )   Save
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      Based on the forming principle of Logistic mapping in polar coordinates and its computer graphical methods,a primary investigation of fabric pattern design method of this kind was undertaken in combination with jacquard weaving testing,and some meaningful conclusions were obtained also.
      Application of RBF neural network in evaluating fabric style
      Application of RBF neural network in evaluating fabric style
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  41-43. 
      Abstract ( 1019 )   PDF (111KB) ( 410 )   Save
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      The advanced Radial Basic Function neural network(RBF) is used to evaluate the fabric style,which has advantages over the commonly used BP neural network in recognition ability and less time required for training.It demonstrates good reliability and precision in resolving the evaluation problem of fabric style,and finds application in this area.
      Union dyeing process of silk/wool blended fabric
      WANG Lan;ZENG Jun-ying;YAN Jun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  44-46. 
      Abstract ( 961 )   PDF (136KB) ( 372 )   Save
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      Silk,wool and silk/wool blended fabrics were dyed with Lanaset serial dyes,and the effect of dyeing process conditions on the color difference between silk and wool of the dyeing was studied.The optimal union dyeing process has been determined through orthogonal experiment,i.e.pH=4,with 10% of ammonium sulfate,and 10 g/L of sodium sulfate,at 80 ℃ for 50 min.
      Application study on anti-ultraviolet finishing with nano-titanium dioxide
      DENG Hua;XIN John H
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  47-49. 
      Abstract ( 980 )   PDF (150KB) ( 495 )   Save
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      Nano-titanium dioxide was prepared by sol-gel method.And the finishing agent containing nano-titanium dioxide was used as anti-ultraviolet finishing agent for cotton fabric by dip padding techniques.Scanning electron microscopy was used to observe the morphology of nano-titanium dioxide particles and the surfaces of untreated / treated cotton fabrics.The anti-ultraviolet property of the treated fabrics was tested.The results showed that the treated fabrics have excellent and durable UV protection properties,with UPF≥50.The UPF values increased with increase of the concentration of nano-titanium dioxide.And after home launderings,the UPF still maintained at a high level.Also,the whiteness and handle of the treated fabrics were kept(good.)
      Application of cationic starch with high degree of substitution to the dye-house waste water treatment
      Lü Tong;WU Zan-min;CAO Ming-hua;CHEN Lei;PENG Xiao-jun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  53-56. 
      Abstract ( 1068 )   PDF (133KB) ( 676 )   Save
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      The cationic starch with high degree of substitution(DS=0.4) was synthesized by semi-dry process,and its reaction efficiency was 88.89%.The application test results indicated that when the addition dosage of this cationic starch ranging from(200 mg/L) to 300 mg/L and the pH value of the waste=11,COD removal efficiency of the dye-house wastewater can reach 90% and the color stripping efficiency can reach 78%.
      Analysis of air permeability and moisture transmission properties of flax/jute lawn cultivation base
      DU Zhao-fang;GUO Shi-jun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  57-58. 
      Abstract ( 964 )   PDF (132KB) ( 364 )   Save
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      The air permeability and moisture transmission properties of the lawn cultivation base with flax/jute as raw material were tested.The results show that the amount of air permeability and moisture transmission decreases with the increase of the mass and thickness per unit area but increases with increasing void content.
      Sand retention of geotube materials
      ZHU Yuan-sheng;JIN Xiang-yu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  59-61. 
      Abstract ( 980 )   PDF (97KB) ( 354 )   Save
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      The paper discussed the characteristics of two kinds of materials which were used to fabricate geotubes and investigated their penetration and sand retention properties.Experiments indicated that the geotube material compounded with the woven geotextile and non-woven fabric has good penetration and sand retention properties.
      Thermal properties of the adsorbent material of a new type of warm-retaining clothes
      KONG Fan-lin;WANG Ru-zhu;WU Jing-yi
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  62-64. 
      Abstract ( 977 )   PDF (115KB) ( 409 )   Save
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      A new type of warm-retaining clothes with molecular sieve adsorbent material as fill was described.Its feature lies in that the molecular sieve material adsorbs the moisture from the human body and the moisture in the air and then releases heat.Through experiments and analysis of three samples of molecular sieve material,a suitable one was selected,and the warm-retaining wear was designed.It has demonstrated that the ball type molecular sieve with a diameter of 4.0 mm is fit for this application.When the adsorbent is 1 kg at the temperature of(-20 ℃) and the relative humidity of 75% in winter,a person wearing this clothes and walking at a speed above 3.2 km/h can be kept warm for 4 hours.
      接触单元;蒸汽定型锅;应力分析;有限元法
      CHEN Zhi-ping;SHEN Jian-min;WANG Lu-fang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  65-67. 
      Abstract ( 988 )   PDF (157KB) ( 357 )   Save
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      Digital simulation of contacting process between the teeth was performed and the stress analysis of stream setting vessel was made by elastic finite element method.The researchers evaluated the fatigue life and stress intensity of the dangerous cross-section.Considering the yielding possibility of the teeth,the elastic-plasticity finite element analysis of the model was conducted and compared with the elastic solution.The results of the two methods are very similar,and both of which show that the contact pressure reduces progressively from both edges of the tooth to the middle and distributes along the radial direction like a parabola.The max stress appears at the root of top flange teeth.This demonstrates that the solution that is computed based upon the elastic assumption is reasonable.A lot of engineering experiences have proved that this kind of machines analyzed by elastic contact element method can meet the requirements on structure strength and fatigue life.
      Principle of lapel forming and a probe to its computation
      PU Dong-xiao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  68-71. 
      Abstract ( 988 )   PDF (131KB) ( 472 )   Save
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      At present,lapel ease allowance is designed mainly on the basis of experience.There exist shortcomings in one way or another in the commonly used methods for calculating lapel ease allowance.When particular proportion of the top collar to collar stand adopted,it tends to occur errors if the existing computation methods is used for it.With a view to solving this problem,the paper has introduced a new method: first to calculate the average radius of the two circles of collar stand and outer length of the lapel,then,obtain the difference of the circles through the difference of the radii.According to the figure of human body,the changeable ease allowance of the lapel is figured out through reasonable proportioning and computation.Through testing and comparison,it has proved that this method can solve the problem stated above and it is more scientific,accurate and practical.
      Relation between doctors' gown and patients' psychology
      CHEN Guo-fen
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  72-74. 
      Abstract ( 1145 )   PDF (133KB) ( 421 )   Save
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      The effect of doctors' gown on patients' psychology was investigated based on costume psychology theory and random polling survey.It suggested that the doctor wear be beneficial to patients' psychology and that the present Chinese doctor wear on the whole be improved.Today,Chinese patients go to see doctor with more demand on psychological help.Both the textile and medical circles should make common efforts in the improvement of doctors' gown.
      Evaluation of layout system in small and medium size garment enterprises based on product customer satisfaction
      LI Guo-fu;HUA Er-tian;YE Fei-fan;XU Xue-hong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  75-78. 
      Abstract ( 1276 )   PDF (117KB) ( 421 )   Save
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      Through analyzing the chief problems now existing in the garment cutout layout system,the evaluation model of product customer satisfaction(PCS) concerning the cut-out layout systems in small and medium size garment enterprises was established by introduction of the concept of PCS.And some different layout modes were evaluated,providing a basis for the development of cut-out layout systems suitable for small and medium size garment enterprises.
      生产技术
      Research on adaptable module and its application to scheme design of roving frame
      XIAO Xin-hua;SHI Ming-hua;XIAO Fang;LI Bin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  79-81. 
      Abstract ( 908 )   PDF (114KB) ( 361 )   Save
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      Aiming at variation and mass customization of roving frame,the concept of adaptable module was presented.The modeling procedure was expounded and the adaptable module model was developed.The product scheme design system has been founded and applied to roving frame,thus,product design cycle is shortened,customers requirement met and the competitive power of the enterprise enhanced.
      Relationship between the resilience and weaving performance of flame retardant acrylic yarn
      CAO Si-tong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  82-83. 
      Abstract ( 907 )   PDF (101KB) ( 402 )   Save
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      The instantaneous resilience of the flame retardant acrylic yarn under repeated drawing was analyzed by testing its instantaneous elasticity.The relationship between the instantaneous resilience of the yarn and the shedding deformation along with its influence on weaving performance were discussed on a quantitative basis.
      HUANG Cui-rong1,2;YU Wei-dong2
      HUANG Cui-rong;YU Wei-dong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  84-85. 
      Abstract ( 1007 )   PDF (105KB) ( 524 )   Save
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      The development of hemp jean fabric involved the following steps: determination of the style which can embody the characteristics of hemp and selection of appropriate blending material;followed by spinning and weaving according to the optimized pattern and weave,density and tightness;and finally,dyeing,and softening finishing with denature alkali.This novel fabric has such properties as rough style which is unique to the hemp,air and moisture permeability and,resistance to ultraviolet,crispy handle,comfort and good shape retention.
      Development of computer-aided design(CAD) system for cotton mill
      SONG Xin-ping;LI Ya-bin;CUI Yu-mei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  86-88. 
      Abstract ( 991 )   PDF (114KB) ( 612 )   Save
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      Traditional process design of cotton mill is conducted manually.Due to a variety of processes and all sorts of equipment,the process design has the disadvantages of high workload and low efficiency.A high-efficiency and practical computer-aided process design system for cotton mill is developed.Its logical model is established by means of data flow diagram,and the physical model is designed on the basis of the features of actual data processing.This system has an integrated function,which involves choice of process flow,calculation of process,choice of machine model,allocation and layout of equipment,analysis of technical and economical values,and management of files and documents.
      Synthesis and characterization of powdery polyacrylic size
      WU Hai-liang;WU Chang-chun;LI Dong-mei;WANG Yao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  89-90. 
      Abstract ( 909 )   PDF (110KB) ( 535 )   Save
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      Aqueous polyacrylic size was synthesized by solution or emulsion polymerization,then,the resultant product was converted into the powdery size through sedimentation,drying,and crush break.The adhesive strength with pure cotton,polyester and T/C blended roves of both the aqueous and powdery sizes were tested respectively,and the results showed that the preparation method of the powdery polyacrylic size is feasible.
      Analysis of weft insertion mechanism of G6300 rapier loom
      ZHENG Zhi-yu;LI Jia-lin;TAO Yong-zheng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  91-92. 
      Abstract ( 1139 )   PDF (105KB) ( 403 )   Save
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      The mechanism of weft insertion of G6300 rapier loom was tested with MEC-B dynamic tester,and its performance characteristics,the dynamic curve and technical parameters of the giver and taker were discussed.It is found that two rapiers arrive at the center of the loom at the same time.
      Development of vibration analysis software for loom-shaft based on Windows
      CHENG Jun-hong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  93-95. 
      Abstract ( 845 )   PDF (117KB) ( 293 )   Save
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      By adopting transfer matrix principle,a kind of vibration analysis software for loom-shaft was developed based on Windows.Program flowchart was completed by means of VB program language on the basis of modularization.The software can provide multiple man-machine interfaces,and visual display of the results.An analysis example is given.
      Development of leno brocade products with ordinary loom
      ZHANG Guo-hui
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  96-98. 
      Abstract ( 768 )   PDF (109KB) ( 485 )   Save
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      This paper introduced how to produce leno brocade products with the ordinary loom.The work included making and fixing the second beam,technological design of products,making the leno reed according to the technological design,manufacturing tension control system for crossing warp,yarn selection, drafting the reasonable looming draft,and warp sizing.The key points which should be paid more attention to during the production from preparation to weaving were also discussed.Apart from selecting suitable sizing ingredients for quality sizing,the most important thing during the leno production is to command the amount of tension regulating-rod moving forward when the first crossing heald rising up,let it provide the corresponding length of crossing warp,to meet the need of clear shed.
      Development of figured two-stretch elastic fabric of polyester/bamboo fiber
      DOU Hai-ping;WANG Ling;JIANG Xiao-wei;SUN Shi-yuan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  99-100. 
      Abstract ( 863 )   PDF (103KB) ( 473 )   Save
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      This paper introduced the spinning and weaving processes of figured two-stretch elastic fabric of polyester/bamboo fiber.Technological parameters and measures of each process were discussed with emphasis on spinning ply twist elastic fascinated-yarn on a modified A631C twisting frame.
      Study on the control system of the automatic flat knitting machine based on embedded ARM
      Lü Jian-fei;FU Jian-zhong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  101-103. 
      Abstract ( 1152 )   PDF (128KB) ( 597 )   Save
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      This paper discussed the working principle of the flat knitting machine and the operational requirements of each component during knitting.A 32-bit ARM microprocessor and groups of MCU were suggested as the main control unit and hypotaxis control respectively,and the coordinated working of them were effected by the parallel data bus and address bus,thereby realizing fully automatic control of the knitting machine.The key technologies of the auto knitting machine control system under development were presented.
      Preparation and characterization of the composite material made from woven and non-woven fabrics
      QIAN Cheng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  104-106. 
      Abstract ( 868 )   PDF (108KB) ( 523 )   Save
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      A new composite material was manufactured with the woven fabric and wet-laid polyester non-woven by spun laced process.The mechanical properties of the composite were tested and the results indicated that the composite has better breaking tenacity,tear resistance and bursting strength than those of the woven fabric.
      Manufacture and performance of 3D-woven thermoplastic composite material
      DONG Wei-Guo;HUANG Gu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  107-108. 
      Abstract ( 1573 )   PDF (92KB) ( 490 )   Save
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      A kind of manufacturing technology of 3D-woven thermoplastic composite material was designed,and the micro-braided yarn was taken as the medium.The void content,elongation,and bending properties of the composite material were examined.The results indicated that the micro-braided yarn is suitable for even impregnation of resin and has good 3D-weaving performance.Since the 3D-woven thermoplastic composite material exhibits low rigidity,pre-drawing of it can remarkably improve its elongation and bending rigidity.
      One bath oxidative pretreatment of cotton fabric
      LI Lian-ju
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  109-111. 
      Abstract ( 933 )   PDF (112KB) ( 493 )   Save
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      Using orthogonal experiment,a preliminary analysis was conducted of the effect of caustic soda,sodium persulfate,and hydrogen peroxide in one bath oxidative pretreatment of cotton fabric.The results showed that either excessive or inadequate amount of caustic soda will result in an increase in strength loss of the fabric.The whiteness and capillary effect improve with the increase of the concentration of caustic soda.Increasing the amount of sodium persulfate, the capillary effect is enhanced considerably.But excessive amount of it reduces the whiteness.As for hydrogen peroxide,a dosage of 15 g/L has proved adequate.A larger dosage of it leads to increased strength loss of the fabric.
      Preparation and application of formaldehyde free durable flame retardant
      ZHU Ping;WANG Bing;WANG Lun;ZHANG Jian-bo
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  112-114. 
      Abstract ( 879 )   PDF (113KB) ( 482 )   Save
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      A formaldehyde free flame retardant was prepared.Its synthetic conditions were studied and chemical structure confirmed by IR.Application of the flame retardant to the treatment of cotton fabrics was investigated. This flame retardant system was based on polycarboxylic acids and acidic catalysts.When it was applied to the finishing of the cotton,a durable flame retarding fabrics without formaldehyde was obtained.The DSC results indicated that this flame retardant can greatly reduce the pyrolytic temperature of cotton fabrics,impart durable flame resistant effect to the fabric,and meet flame resistant requirements of many kinds of textile.Furthermore,no special equipment or finishing technique was required when applying this flame-retardant.
      知识表达;人工智能;基于案例的推理;人工神经网络;毛纺工艺
      Lü Zhi-jun;XIANG Qian;YIN Xiang-gang;YANG Jian-guo
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  115-117. 
      Abstract ( 924 )   PDF (120KB) ( 505 )   Save
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      On the basis of summary of knowledge acquirements,this paper presented various kinds of knowledge representation method commonly used in intelligent system,and utilized a hybrid intelligent model for the textile process planning.The advantages of knowledge reuse were demonstrated by an applied case.
      Quantification study of the effect of ironing-technology on forming of apparel of different fabrics
      LEI Zhong-min;HU Ming
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  118-121. 
      Abstract ( 984 )   PDF (147KB) ( 458 )   Save
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      Experiments were designed according to the human body curve line,wear-comfort of the darts and stitches,and to the traditional ironing technique under corresponding temperature,humidity,pressure,time and the cooling way.Ironing was applied to 11 kinds of apparel fabrics of natural,synthetic,and blended fibers based on the corresponding design of body measurements,and the results were analyzed.It revealed that as with the natural fiber fabric,owning to its good properties,good effect of stretching and shrinking could be obtained as long as controlling the basic parameters well in the test.The change in fabric length also affected the space volume of stretching and shrinking,which showed that the natural fabric has better performance in meeting the body 3-dimensional fitting needs after stretching and shrinking.The synthetic fabric has good elasticity,poor hydroscopicity,and small yarn to yarn friction coefficient,shape keeping time is short after pushing,stretching and shrinking.Therefore,it will get better effect if increasing all the technique parameters during the ironing process.The blended fabric has the virtues of both natural and synthetic fibers,and it has good shape keeping property.However,the volume of stretching and shrinking when ironing depends on the human anatomy and muscles.
      综合述评
      Thermal-sensitive intelligent polymers and their application
      HU Jin-lian;FAN Hao-jun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  122-129. 
      Abstract ( 1181 )   PDF (341KB) ( 1837 )   Save
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      Shape memory polymers(SMPs)here refer to themal-sensititve polymers with the ability to sense and respond to extemal stimuli in a predetermined shape.Some polymers such as polyurethane,co-polymer of Styrene and Butadiene,1,4-polyisoprene,crosslinked PE,etc.were found to have shape memory recovery ability.As compared with shape memory alloy,thermal-sensitive shape memeory polymers have low density,low cost,high shape recovery,are easy to dye,to shape and to be stimulated under expected switch temperature.Especially with polyurethane,the structure-property relationships are extremely diverse and controllable and the shape recovery temperature can be set in a wide range from-30℃ to 70℃.So they have found a wide spectrum of applications in such fields as biomedical,textile and garment,toy,packaging and military industries.Smart textiles are highly appreciated by customers for the multifunctions such as wrinkle-free,easy-care,water-proof,moisture vapor permeable(breathable),warmth retention,shape memeory,and automatic control to keep the wearer cooler or wamer.These products include outdoor garments,sportswear,sleeping bags,tent,bandage,brassiere,bellyband and military combat wear.A review is made of the thermal-sensitive intelligent polymers with focuses on the structural features,shape memory mechanism,along with their potential applications in textile,biomedical,and national defense industries.
      Advances in development and application of shape memory alloy in textiles
      LIU Xiao-xia;HU Jin-lian
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  130-132. 
      Abstract ( 825 )   PDF (125KB) ( 572 )   Save
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      An overview of the shape memory alloy addressed its shape memory effect in fancy yarns and kinesthetic fabrics and its application to functional textiles.
      Evaluation of the model of cotton yarn quality
      ZHANG Li-juan;CHEN Bing-lin;XUE Xiao-ping;XIONG Zong-wei;ZHOU Zhi-guo
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  133-135. 
      Abstract ( 903 )   PDF (108KB) ( 395 )   Save
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      Based on research documents of both at home and abroad relating to the relations of the raw cotton quality with the yarn spun,domestic and overseas scholars have set forth various prediction models in respect to raw cottons of different quality.In particular,more studies have been devoted to the yarn spinning strength models.Recently,new indexes of spinning yarn quality have been suggested,for example,Spinning Consistence Index and Integrated Cotton Index.However,not much research on other indexes of spinning yarn quality such as limit count,slubs,and neps were conducted,especially in China.The present work has evaluated the existing models and suggested the research orientation in the future.
      The SPA emerges and functions
      HU Min-min;WU Guan-rong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  136-138. 
      Abstract ( 929 )   PDF (106KB) ( 392 )   Save
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      In recent years,a SPA type of slopwork marketing pattern has made some well-known international leisure-nature style brands a great success.The SPA appears on the basis of quick rising of late-modernism consumption behaviors as well as the subdivision for different life styles that are both characteristic for symbol consumptions.The pattern operates through three main aspects.Firstly,build up a sense of service marketing by sophisticated shop designs.Secondly,establish a quick respond system for brands management through more face to face communications among the clients,shops and factories.Finally,make a refined reckon for cost and a suitable arrangement for production with shops as the center with a view to developing brand's value through its higher working efficiency and lower inventory level.Our clothing industry should take SPA as a reference not merely for its sense of service marketing,diverse mixtures of different fashion elements and apparent plasticity merchandise layouts but also for its good mastering of different life styles and late-modernism consumption behaviors.
      Change of functions of the traditional fur coat
      CUI Rong-rong;ZHANG Jing-qiong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  139-140. 
      Abstract ( 901 )   PDF (106KB) ( 471 )   Save
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      Starting from the inherent physical features of the fur coat,its serviceability was analyzed.In a viewpoint of historical development and society progress,this paper expounded the transformation of the traditional fur coat from flaunting ranks and standings to flaunting riches.From the point of cultural exchange,the development course of seeking fashion and aesthetic feeling during the period of the Republic of China was discussed.Thus,it proves that the development of Chinese costume culture goes with the trend.
      Strategy on the treatment of waste water from the textile industry of China
      YU Yi-zheng;XI Dan-li;ZHU Jia-jing;GONG Jin-li
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(6):  141-144. 
      Abstract ( 986 )   PDF (261KB) ( 499 )   Save
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      Recently,the water pollution problem caused by the rapid development of Chinese textile industry has become more and more serious,which has constituted a great damage to China's ecological system,impeding the sustainable development of the textile industry.In order to reduce or eliminate the negative impact and realize the win-win strategy as regards to the economy and environment, a comprehensive policy for improving the environment has been raised after research,that is,to construct "one fundamental structure",establish "two production platforms",intensify "three pushing forces",perfect "four support systems",and grasp "five rings for development".In addition,eight suggestions concerning the industrious policy are presented.