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Table of Content

    15 October 2005, Volume 26 Issue 5
    • 科研报告
      A novel technique for measuring the wettability of fabric
      LIU Wen-chao;DI Jian-feng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  1-3. 
      Abstract ( 859 )   PDF (117KB) ( 353 )   Save
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      Since the fabric is porous,the liquid drops will go into pores of the fabric as soon as they come into contact with the fabric surface.A general contact angle meter is not suitable for this kind of measuring.This paper introduces a novel measuring technique which can measure not only the surface contact angle formed with the liquid but also the capillary contact angle in the porous.Besides,it can also obtain some other characteristic parameters of the wettability of the fabric.
      Dyeing of cotton fabric with vat dyes and the near-infrared camouflage property of the dyed fabric
      ZHANG Hui;ZHANG Jian-chun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  4-7. 
      Abstract ( 1231 )   PDF (136KB) ( 405 )   Save
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      Reflectance spectroscopy was used to measure the near-infrared reflection spectra of cotton fabrics dyed with vat dyes with different structures,and the reflection spectra measured were respectively compared with that of the green leaf,investigating its camouflage mechanism.The results disclose that the reflective spectral line of the cotton fabric dyed with the vat dye is similar to that of the green leaf and the wave peaks of dyed fabrics vary with the kinds of vat dyes,i.e.the near-infrared reflection spectra of the dyed cotton fabrics are determined by the structure of dyes,mainly by the dye which has the maximum red shift.
      Studies on melt-blown polypropylene composite fabric containing electret
      CHENG Bo-wen;KANG Wei-min;JIAO Xiao-ning
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  8-10. 
      Abstract ( 1089 )   PDF (224KB) ( 674 )   Save
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      A melt-blown nonwoven fabric containing tourmaline micro-powder electret was developed,and its properties such as web structure,mechanical properties,air permeability,surface charge density,filter efficiency and antibacterial property were tested.The results show that the mechanical properties of nonwovens with tourmalines decline to some extent,whereas its electret effect,the surface charge density,filter efficiency and antibacterial property have improved significantly.
      Obtaining textile images using color components operation and bit-mask technique
      ZHOU Ping;WANG Ya-ming;ZHAO Yun;
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  11-13. 
      Abstract ( 831 )   PDF (176KB) ( 432 )   Save
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      Color reduction technique is crucial for many applications,such as segmentation and presentation of color images.Based on color components operation and bit-mask reduction of grey value,the paper presented a novel image processing technique which was applied to obtaining textile image.The coefficient of color components operation and the mode of linear combination were determined by experiments.This research has shown that color components operation can enhance the visualability of patterns of the fabric,and bit-mask operation can reduce noises in its grey image and ensures real-time processing.
      Tensile strength property of combinational 3D woven composites
      ZHU Cheng-yan;GAO Zhen-yun;ZHU Jun-ping
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  14-15. 
      Abstract ( 879 )   PDF (209KB) ( 400 )   Save
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      Combinational designs were performed by using orthogonal and angular-interlocked structures,and two kinds of 3D woven fabric with different structures were woven accordingly with glass fibers on the trial basis.The fabrics were then reinforced with resin and the tensile strength property of the resultant composites was tested.The results show that the Young's modulus and tensile strength of the combinational 3D woven fabric reinforced composite are close to that of the 3D orthogonal woven fabric reinforced composite.
      Grafting modification of PET with acrylic acid by microwave low temperature plasma techniques
      ZHANG Xiao-lin;MA Xiao-guang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  16-19. 
      Abstract ( 952 )   PDF (124KB) ( 383 )   Save
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      The graft modification of PET film with acrylic acid initiated by microwave low temperature plasma was carried out and the best process conditions were optimized by varying the time,power,and gas pressure of the treatment.The washing effect of the polyester fabric was tested with these process conditions.The characterization of the fabric was performed by means of IR spectrum and SEM photographs.The results show that microwave low temperature plasma have an obvious etching effect on PET film and acrylic can be grafted onto the surface of PET film after plasma treatment.It proves that the surface modification of PET is feasible by direct acting to the material surface with the microwave low temperature plasma gas of acrylic acid.
      分析探讨
      Effect of ramie's growth period on its structure and character
      ZHONG An-hua;TAN Yuan-you;WANG Cheng-guo;HUANG Cui-rong;ZOU Hua
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  20-22. 
      Abstract ( 1177 )   PDF (208KB) ( 595 )   Save
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      The fiber structure and quality of the ramie with different growth period were researched.It is found that appropriately advanced cutting can decrease ramie's crystallinity,orientation,and degree of lignification,improve its wearability such as moisture permeability,thermal transportation,and softness.Fine denier fiber which has little itching feeling and does not tend to cracking in processing can be obtained.This ramie has enhanced its quality,retains its green nature,and is suitable for development of knit goods.
      Effect of solvent on the electric conductivity of polyaniline/polyacrylonitrile
      PAN Wei;ZHANG Hui-qin;WANG Zhi-xin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  23-25. 
      Abstract ( 1003 )   PDF (114KB) ( 485 )   Save
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      Two kinds of conductive films of polyaniline/polyacrylonitrile were prepared by solution polymerization with CHCl<sub>3</sub>/DMF and CHCl<sub>3</sub>/DMSO as solvent respectively.Testing indicated that the conductivity of the films varied with the solvent used.The film prepared with CHCl<sub>3</sub>/DMSO as solvent displayed higher conductivity than that with CHCl<sub>3</sub>/DMF.This may be ascribed to the dedoping reaction in CHCl<sub>3</sub>/DMF,as identified by UV-VIS and FT-IR analysis.
      Unstable structure mechanism of Sirofil yarn
      LI Wei-ru;YU Yan-ping;YU Jian-yong;WANG Shan-yuan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  26-27. 
      Abstract ( 915 )   PDF (203KB) ( 276 )   Save
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      During weaving,the filament of Sirofil yarn will separate from its staple fiber resulting from the friction with machine and inter-yarn frictions,i.e.usually called “wool stripping”.The mechanism of this unstable structure and factors affecting it are analyzed.
      Studies on change of properties of tussah fabric after graft modification by plasma treatment
      XIE Hong-de;WANG Hong-wei;LI Ning;ZHANG Wei-dong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  28-30. 
      Abstract ( 879 )   PDF (109KB) ( 352 )   Save
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      The grafting of hydroxyethyl methacrylate (HEMA) onto tussah fabric under oxygen plasma condition was carried out,and the properties of the grafted tussah fabric were tested.It was found that the wettability and TGA of the grafted tussah fabric are imporved,its dyeing property is enhanced markedly,but the air permeability is decreased.
      Migration mechanism of fibers and their movement analysis in the twisting triangular space of ring spinning
      XUE Yuan;CAO Yan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  31-33. 
      Abstract ( 979 )   PDF (121KB) ( 415 )   Save
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      The migration mechanism of fibers in the twisting triangular space of ring spinning is analyzed by using a new three-dimensional model.It is concluded that the speed of the fiber in the twisting triangular space consists of three vectors components,i.e.the speed along the yarn axis,which is decided by the speed of the front roller,the rotation speed round the yarn axis,which is brought by the twisting effect,and the fiber speed relative to the center of cross-section of the sliver,which is caused by the geometry translation.This theory can serve as a guideline in predicting the movement tendency of fibers and analyzing their migration mechanism in the twist triangular space of ring spinning.
      Evaluating changes of cotton fiber performances in spinning using fuzzy math model
      YU Yong-ling;ZHANG Ya-hui;REN Zhi-hua
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  34-36. 
      Abstract ( 880 )   PDF (114KB) ( 358 )   Save
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      Using fuzzy math model and the dyed raw cotton testing,the changes of physical properties of cotton fibers in spinning such as length of fiber,fineness,maturity,neps,breaking strength,and elongation were evaluated by means of the two-grade fuzzy model. A quantitative analysis of these changes in individual process was conducted. The results indicate that with respect to the comprehensive performances of the cotton fiber,the roving exhibits the best,the sliver,the worst,and spun yarn better than the sliver only. These results provide a scientific basis for rational processing and application of cotton.
      Cold forming technique of roller teeth of the drawing frame
      CHEN Jian-fei;XU Xiao-zhen;XU Zhan-bin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  37-39. 
      Abstract ( 995 )   PDF (126KB) ( 391 )   Save
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      Rollers are important parts in a drawing frame. The spiral teeth of the roller were traditionally milled. A new machining method for it is developed,by which,the surface harshness of a roller is within 1.6 μm,and production efficiency is increased by 12 times. Further theoretical analysis and experiments are made of the principle of the cold forming and design of rolling wheels,and some useful conclusions are drawn.
      Analysis and design of the thread guide mechanism of a two-for-one twister
      YANG Jian-cheng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  40-42. 
      Abstract ( 839 )   PDF (112KB) ( 447 )   Save
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      The principle of the thread guide mechanism of a two-for-one twister is studied. A new design method of the thread guide mechanism of the two-for-one twister is proposed:synthetic design can be achieved according to textile technology. Several design formulas of the gears of the thread guide mechanism are derived. Illustrative example shows that the formulas derived are right. This design method may be used for reference.
      Limitation of the formulas for fabric surface energy
      DI Jian-feng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  43-45. 
      Abstract ( 1651 )   PDF (114KB) ( 651 )   Save
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      Computation formulas for fabric surface energy,such as Owens with 2 liquids and with 3 liquids,Neumann,Forkes and Van Oss methods,were used widely in the world.However,it is found by the research that they all have some limitations in practical use.When the fabric surface energy is more than 20 mJ/m2,all the 5 formulas are applicable,but if the surface energy is less than 20 mJ/m2,it is better to choose Neumann formula for computation.
      织物;紧度;线密度;纱线直径;线性回归
      REN Zhi-hua;WU Jian;YU Yong-ling
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  46-48. 
      Abstract ( 1971 )   PDF (103KB) ( 512 )   Save
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      The relationships between the fabric tightness and its structure were analyzed,and correlative regress equation was established and verified by mathematics. In calculating the fabric tightness,the linear density of yarn was used instead of yarn diameter,thus reducing the complexity and error.
      Application of fuzzy math to evaluating the relationships between wearability and blending ratio of linen/polyester fabric
      TIAN Jun-ying;GU Zhen-ya
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  49-51. 
      Abstract ( 924 )   PDF (109KB) ( 421 )   Save
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      Blending ratio is an important factor affecting the wearability of blended fabrics. This paper studied the quantitative relations between wearability and blending ratio of linen/polyester (L/T) blended fabrics based on the datum obtained concerning wearability of the blended fabrics with various blending ratios. The fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method is employed to forecast the blending ratio based on the wearability of the blended fabric.
      Principle and standardized method of digital multicolored warp jacquard fabric design
      ZHOU Jiu;LI Qi-zheng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  52-54. 
      Abstract ( 968 )   PDF (165KB) ( 420 )   Save
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      The multicolored warp jacquard fabric is one of the typical jacquard fabrics. This paper presented the principle and standardized method of digital multicolored warp jacquard fabric design based on digital design technology,thus providing guidelines for setting up digital color model and digital database of fabric weave. Therefore,the product development efficiency can be enhanced.
      Research on lotus leaf-like fabric by ultra-fine fiber
      WEI Xia;GU Zhen-ya;FAN Li-hong;LIU Na;LIU Shang-nan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  55-57. 
      Abstract ( 1020 )   PDF (106KB) ( 679 )   Save
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      Five different fabric weaves are chosen to research the water repellency of the lotus leaf-like fabric. The raw materialsare polyester sea-island ultra-fine fiber and polyester high-shrinkage filament. The conclusions drawn are as follows:the water repellency is better if the fabric is woven with high-shrinkage filaments,or if the density of warp and weft is high,or if the fabric is of crepe weave.
      Fabric pattern design based on quasi-regular pattern theory
      ZHANG Yu;FU Yue-ying
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  58-59. 
      Abstract ( 945 )   PDF (263KB) ( 381 )   Save
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      Based on the quasi-regular pattern theory,a new design method of fabric patterns was studied using computer graphical methods,coupled with jacquard weaving trials. How to optimize the designs of certain specific pattern graphs was also investigated,thereby getting some useful hints.
      Maximum speed of the jacquard and analysis of the force acting upon the cross needles and main hooks
      LI Zhi-xiang;HE Wei-lin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  60-62. 
      Abstract ( 1075 )   PDF (106KB) ( 381 )   Save
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      Through analyzing the force acting upon the main hooks,the maximum speed of various kinds of down-pull element can be computed. This may apply to the high speed jacquard as well as the electronic jacquard. Proper selection of materials for making main hooks will prolong the service life of the figure pattern card. This may provide a reference for the manufacturer and designing units.
      Cross-linking flocculants of high molecule and high concentration
      YANG Ju-ping
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  63-64. 
      Abstract ( 768 )   PDF (130KB) ( 298 )   Save
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      High molecule,high concentration, high cationic degree and cross linking flocculants were synthesized.The influence of composition,cationic degree, and molecules on the stability of PDA-PAC was investigated.It has disclosed that the stability of PDA-PAC is very good when the composition is 0.1~1.0, cationic degree,95~99%,and molecule,1.8×106~5.0×106.It has provided basic datum for commercialization of products of this kind.
      Design of embedded control system of electronic jacquard card
      ZHUGE Zhen-rong;CAI Chong-kai
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  65-67. 
      Abstract ( 979 )   PDF (107KB) ( 427 )   Save
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      The design plan of the embedded control system of the electronic jacquard card, including vertical electronic selector, was elucidated. PC104 was used as the main component of the hardware in the design,and software was based on Linux. Now,this electronic jacquard card operates very well in production.
      Crease-proof finishing of cotton fabrics with phosphino polycarboxylic acids
      WANG Qiang;ZHANG Qin;FAN Xue-rong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  68-71. 
      Abstract ( 1012 )   PDF (119KB) ( 440 )   Save
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      The crease-proof finishing of cotton fabrics with phosphino polycarboxylic acids such as phosphino butanetetra carboxylic acid (PBTCA),phosphino polymaleic acid (PPMA),and phosphonanted hydrolytic polymaleic anhydride(PHPMA) were investigated.The effects of concentration of finishes,the type and concentration of catalysts and additives,curing temperature and duration on the characteristics of cotton fabrics were discussed.The results show that the three kinds of phosphino polycarboxylic acids above have rendered cotton fabrics good crease-proofing property,of them,PBTCA is the best.And addition of triethyl amine to the finishing agent can improve the extent of crosslinking,strength,and whiteness of cotton fabrics.
      Protective functions of camouflage fabrics of pure silk and cotton dyedwith natural dye lithospermum erythrorrhizon
      FENG Xin-xing;CHEN Jian-yong;CHEN Zi-hao;GUO Yu-hai;ZHANG Jian-chun;
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  72-73. 
      Abstract ( 1153 )   PDF (129KB) ( 604 )   Save
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      Pure silk and cotton fabrics were dyed with natural dye lithospermum erythrorrhizon by the traditional method,and the camouflage properties of the dyed fabrics were evaluated.It is found by experiments that these fabrics have good camouflage protective functions in resistance to ultraviolet,visible,and near infrared rays.Their protective indexes are up to the standards of the army.These camouflage protective functions may be attributed to the electronic transition of a-naphthaquinone in lithospermum erythrorrhizon.
      Robust integrity design aiming at actuator failures of linear time-delay systems
      LI Jun-feng;DAI Wen-zhan;
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  74-76. 
      Abstract ( 830 )   PDF (123KB) ( 301 )   Save
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      The problem of robust fault-tolerant control for a kind of linear time-delay system is studied.Based on Lyapunov method, a kind of output feedback controller with time-delay is presented.Sufficient condition for time-delay system possessing integrity against actuator failures is given.Simulations show that the proposed approach is effective and it has better stability than the method of output feedback without time-delay.
      Establishment of grey models of human bust
      LI Xiao-jiu;ZHU Guang-zhou
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  77-79. 
      Abstract ( 924 )   PDF (108KB) ( 496 )   Save
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      In the non-contact body measurement system,how to obtain the bust size is a pivotal problem.The paper uses the grey link analysis theory to determine stature,body weight, bust breadth and bust circumference for the basic elements of the bust grey model.And according to the classification of TNF index, the grey models of human bust are established.The work has got good effect in forecasting,laying a foundation for realization of the non-contact body measurement system.
      Theoretical study on optimal cutting plan of custom-made garments
      XU Ji-hong;ZHANG Wen-bin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  80-82. 
      Abstract ( 874 )   PDF (109KB) ( 359 )   Save
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      The optimal estimation of the cutting plan for custom-made garments is founded out by differetiation and Lagrange multipliers.After sorting and incorporation,the articles with all desirable specifications are equally numbered,that make the total amount of fabric needed minimal.The optimal cutting plan of custom-made garments is theoretically summed up,and all indexes are verified by operations at the mill level.It demonstrates that the optimal cutting plan for custom-made garments is feasible.
      Metallization of polypropylene nonwoven fabric by low temperature RF-plasma
      ZHU You-shui;WANG Hong-wei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  83-85. 
      Abstract ( 848 )   PDF (118KB) ( 377 )   Save
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      The metallization treatment of the polypropylene nonwoven fabric by low temperature RF-plasma was researched,and the effect of experiment conditions such as time,working pressure on the electric resistance of the sample was discussed.The washing fastness,thermal stability,and the surface morphological change before and after treatment of the sample were also examined.The results indicated that soft textiles exhibiting proper anti-radiation and antistatic performance can be obtained by plasma treatment in hydrogen atmosphere.
      生产技术
      Thermal property of super bright polyester chips
      YIN Cui-yu;SHEN Xin-yuan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  86-87. 
      Abstract ( 900 )   PDF (100KB) ( 475 )   Save
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      The thermal property of the super bright polyester(PET) chip was studied by DSC.The results show that compared with the common semi-dull PET chip,the super bright PET has higher crystallization temperature,lower crystal enthalpy and crystallinity.Its high melting enthalpy results in bigger crystal size,lower super-cooling and poor spinnability.
      Acoustic measurement of raw silk tension
      LI Wei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  88-89. 
      Abstract ( 734 )   PDF (100KB) ( 537 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problem of raw silk tension testing,this paper presented a measuring method of raw silk tension using acoustic principle.When the sound wave which is produced by sound generator transmitting through raw silk with some tension form one end to the other,the output amplitude received by sound receiver at the other end was measured,and the relationships between the raw silk tension and acoustical attenuation was examined.The experimental result indicates that when the tension of raw silk increases gradually,the intensity of sound transmitting through it rises.Therefore,the raw silk tension can be determined by the sound intensity signal sent out by the sound receiver.
      Study on fast bio-retting of flax
      PENG Yuan-de;LIU Zheng-chu;JIN Guan-rong+;HU Zhen-xiu;ZANG Gong-gu;ZHENG Ke;FU Fu-dao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  90-91. 
      Abstract ( 993 )   PDF (109KB) ( 461 )   Save
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      An applied study on fast bio_retting of flax was undertaken,and the results indicated that when compared with the conventional warm water retting of flax,this technique was characterized by shorter retting cycle time,high yield,good quality,high efficiency and slight pollution with retting cycle time reduced by over 70%,the rate of line flax increased by 3~4 percentage points,the quality of the fiber improved greatly,and discharge of BOD5 and SS reduced by 33% and 89% respectively.When 1 ton of flax stalk was processed,direct profit of more than 270 yuan was obtained.Its economic,social and ecological benefits are obvious.
      Crease resistance of soybean protein fiber/cotton blended fabric
      WU Li-li;HE Jun;YU Jian-yong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  92-94. 
      Abstract ( 981 )   PDF (121KB) ( 539 )   Save
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      The crease resistant property of soybean protein fiber/cotton blended fabric was tested,and the effect of blending ratio,twist,yarn count and structure on its properties was investigated.Optimal process parameters were determined,thus providing reference for further study and production practice.
      Production of bamboo fiber/Modal fiber jacquard fabric
      ZHAO Bo
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  95-97. 
      Abstract ( 866 )   PDF (108KB) ( 399 )   Save
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      The performance characteristics of bamboo fiber and Modal fiber were described,and main process parameters for production of jacquard fabric of bamboo fiber/Modal fiber were obtained through experiments.The measures for improving the quality of the fabric were presented.
      Design of man_machine interface for new looms
      ZHANG A-wei;HONG Jun;LIANG Hai-shun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  98-100. 
      Abstract ( 770 )   PDF (90KB) ( 471 )   Save
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      Starting from the user's physiological and psychological traits,the concept and method of man-machine interface design were investigated through analyzing the present situation of man-machine interface design and the influencing factors thereof,providing a reference for such kind of designs.
      Biarc application in the garment pattern design
      LI Zhong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  101-102. 
      Abstract ( 864 )   PDF (120KB) ( 365 )   Save
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      In the garment pattern design,the biarc segment is used to connect two given points while satisfying their tangent directions respectively.The biarc technique is simple to use in designing and the shape of biarc can be modified by adjusting two endpoints.This method enriches the garment style and increases the diversity of garment pattern design.
      Rise tendency change of the turn collar
      WEI Jing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  103-105. 
      Abstract ( 791 )   PDF (132KB) ( 534 )   Save
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      The quantitative relationships between the rise tendency of turn collar and outside line and between the warped tendency and collar width are analyzed through experiments.This has presented a theoretical and practical basis for better master of the inner law of turn collar modeling.
      Research and development of the intelligent detecting system of the rapier loom
      WANG Qing-jiu;CHEN Zong-nong;ZHAN Jian-chao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  106-107. 
      Abstract ( 915 )   PDF (110KB) ( 463 )   Save
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      Adopted the programmable control and modern detection technologies,an intelligent detecting system for the rapier loom has been designed based on PLC.It can simulate the normal working state of the loom and breakdown,detect the loom control box,and control the weft selection and the heddle frame motion.It is compact in design,flexible in operation and reliable in performance,worthy of promotion of use.
      Development of the fabric network-aided design system
      YAN Yi;ZHANG Rui-yun;LI Ru-qin;ZHANG Feng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  108-110. 
      Abstract ( 891 )   PDF (105KB) ( 411 )   Save
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      The development of the Fabric Network-Aided Design System(F-NAD) which integrates the remote design of textile and information browsing is discussed,and the direction for further development is suggested.
      Sequencing optimization of fabric spreading and cutting based on genetic algorithm in garment manufacturing
      WANG Dong-yun;LIU Hui-qin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  111-113. 
      Abstract ( 1149 )   PDF (114KB) ( 442 )   Save
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      Genetic algorithm(GA) have recently been applied to the scheduling and line balancing problems in garment manufacturing.However,these applications have been limited to sewing operations.This paper presented a fabric spreading and cutting sequencing(SCS) model using GA to solve the sequencing problem of the computerized cutting system used in the garment industry.Chromosome was expressed in real number string in the algorithm.Bit string of mutation and crossover were employed in the operation.The results obtained by comparing the actual production cycle and the proposed model using GA indicate that GA is an appropriate and effective technique to solve the problem of sequencing optimization of fabric spreading and cutting in garment making.
      Development of biodegradable non-woven fabrics for medical use
      ZHANG Yu;ZHU Jun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  114-116. 
      Abstract ( 976 )   PDF (100KB) ( 459 )   Save
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      Non-woven web of uniformly mixed cotton short staple fiber with biodegradable poly(hydroxybutyrate-co-hydroxyvalerate)(PHBV) was manufactured by wet laying method with cotton linters and wastes as raw materials.Utilizing the good thermo-plasticity of PHBV,thermo-bonded non-woven fabric was developed,Which was complete biodegradable and suitable for medical use.Research indicated that this environmentally protective non-woven fabric for medical use has good properties.
      Zipper sewing technology for knitted apparel
      MAO Li-li;XU Qing-qing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  117-119. 
      Abstract ( 1818 )   PDF (105KB) ( 528 )   Save
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      A comparative study was conducted on zipper sewing technology of knitted apparels through experiments.Factors affecting sewing quality of zipper such as bulky joints were investigated.Analysis of the experiment results suggested that there are two major factors affecting sewing quality of zipper on knitted apparel,one is the amount of differences between knitted fabrics and zipper in length,and the other is the amount of differences between left and right in length.These findings have set forth theoretical basis for the design of sewing technology and some importance directions for production of the enterprise.
      综合述评
      Primary properties of basalt continuous filament
      CUI Yi-hua
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  120-121. 
      Abstract ( 1129 )   PDF (95KB) ( 1333 )   Save
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      The composition,physical and chemical properties of basalt continuous filament are investigated,providing a reference basis for developing a new generation of industrial textiles.
      Model of spinning yarn quality
      ZHANG Li-juan;MENG Ya-li;CHEN Bing-lin;XUE Xiao-ping;XIONG Zong-wei;ZHOU Zhi-guo
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  122-124. 
      Abstract ( 923 )   PDF (102KB) ( 523 )   Save
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      Based on studying articles on relationships between the raw cotton property and the quality of spinning yarns,researchers suggest that the Integrated Cotton Fiber-quality Index(IFQI) is an integrated expression of cotton fiber property and quality.It can estimate the quality of raw cotton and spinning yarns,and servers as an intermediate parameter for spinning yarn strength prediction and an index which is directly proportional to the spinning strength.The model of IFQI based on the experimental data of yarn spinning has advantages of explicit mechanism,few independent variables,and simplicity.
      Analysis for integration characteristics of Green Textile production
      WU Di-chong;GU Xin-jian
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  125-127. 
      Abstract ( 836 )   PDF (120KB) ( 399 )   Save
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      This paper analyzed the integration characteristics of Green Textile production and their correlations.A new concept of the Green Integrated Textile System(GITS) and its basic composition was presented.
      Advances in the development of softening agents
      ZHANG Zhi-guo;YIN Hong;CHEN Zhi-rong
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  128-131. 
      Abstract ( 1042 )   PDF (100KB) ( 965 )   Save
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      This paper described the development history of the fabric softeners,their classification,varieties, and application,and analyzed the acting mechanism of the softener and the relationship between the molecular structure and performance characteristics of the softener.With the development of compounding and other new technologies,softeners with better quality and more functions will be manufactured.It has provided a reference for the formulation,development and application of softening agents of our country.
      Design and origins of women's head ornament in the south of the lower reaches of the Yangtze
      Design and origins of women's head ornament in the south of the lower reaches of the Yangtze
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  132-134. 
      Abstract ( 1005 )   PDF (130KB) ( 479 )   Save
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      Applying the principles of folklore and garment,this article makes a preliminary research on the styles and origins of women's hairstyle,meile,kerchief and hairpin in the south of the lower reaches of the Yangtze River.The long hair tied in a bun and decorated with flowers is the foundation of the women's head ornaments in this area.The main parts of the head ornaments include meile and kerchief.Meile is a long and narrow ribbon tied around the forehead and kerchief is a piece of trapezoid cloth which is used to wrap the head.The hairstyle and the ornaments have a long historical origin and are closely related with the local lifestyle of “Rice Culture”.
      Present situation and development concept of digital fashion design
      LU Lei;LIU Xiao-gang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  135-136. 
      Abstract ( 1060 )   PDF (101KB) ( 696 )   Save
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      Problems associated with the development process of digital fashion design are pointed out,and the frame of digital fashion design system is constructed.The method for realizing man-machine interactive interface is discussed.
      Dyeing and finishing effluent treatment with chitosan and sodium alginate
      QIN Yi-min
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  137-139. 
      Abstract ( 961 )   PDF (102KB) ( 641 )   Save
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      Use of chitosan and sodium alginate in treating effluent from dyeing and finishing process was studied. Chitosan and sodium alginate solutions were separately added into two samples of effluent containing acid chrome blue K dye, followed by mixing together the two samples. Since the positively charged chitosan and negatively charged sodium alginate precipitated each,waste dye was absorbed and separated from the solution. Experimental results showed that removal of waste dye is affected by the dosage of chitosan and sodium alginate,the ratio of chitosan to sodium alginate,treatment temperature,pH and time.
      Basic characteristics of clothing digital technology
      LI Xu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  140-142. 
      Abstract ( 1062 )   PDF (142KB) ( 561 )   Save
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      This paper addressed the present situations and developing trend of clothing digital technology,the basic characteristics of 2-D and 3-D systems,and related key technologies.It has provided technological and theoretic basis for researchers in perfecting their software system and promotion of use.It is also useful for size selection of customers.
      Studies on the test method and assessment criteria of anti-mite and anti-bacterial fabrics
      OUYANG You-sheng;CHEN Yi-ben;PENG Hong;XIE Xiao-bao;PENG Ru-qun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  143-145. 
      Abstract ( 1020 )   PDF (133KB) ( 854 )   Save
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      The researchers analyzed the present situation,existing problems,and developing trend of the test methods and assessment criteria of anti-mite and anti-bacterial fabrics both at home and abroad. In order to make correct assessment of the anti-mite and anti-bacterial fabrics and taking into consideration the actual situation of our country in the respect, they set forth the proposal of accelerating the preparation of the test method and assessment criteria of the anti-mite and anti-bacterial fabrics.
      Research on information system authority problem of the textile industry based on HAD environment
      WANG Zheng-cheng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2005, 26(5):  146-148. 
      Abstract ( 959 )   PDF (133KB) ( 399 )   Save
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      The demand of the authority problem of the enterprise management information system was analyzed based on heterogeneous,autonomous,distributed environment(HAD),presenting two kinds of authority control strategies:user dynamic chain generation and the visit control strategy based on the fire wall.Combined with the state 863 project,some operational examples of agile supply chain management based on e-business was developed.