Table of Content

15 May 2012, Volume 33 Issue 5

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New silk fiber composite containing spider dragline silk protein and produced by transgenic silkworm

ZHANG Yuan-Song, ZHAO Tian-Fu, ZHAO Ai-Chun, WEN Hong-Xiu, ZHONG Yuan-Ya-Xiong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  1-5. 

Abstract ( 1125 )   PDF (1410KB) ( 610 )   Save

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Spider silk is an excellent fibre with combination of tensile strength and elasticity, but the isolation of large amount of spider silk in nature is difficult. Such superior biomaterials could be useful for industrial and medical purposes. In this study, We induce spider dragline silk (MaSp1) gene into the chromosome of silkworm by piggyBac transgenic vector. The result showed the trangeic silkworm can produce a new composite silk fiber that contains MaSp1 protein. It also suggested that produce many kinds of new composite protein fiber material by transgenic silkworm is feasible.

Poly(ether-ether-ketone) fiber and property of its fabric

LI Ming-Yue, ZHANG Tian-Jiao, FENG Xin, CHI Dong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  6-10. 

Abstract ( 1136 )   PDF (1248KB) ( 387 )   Save

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The properties of PEEK fiber and its fabric were widely studied. The results showed that the breaking strength of drawn PEEK fiber was up to 6.6 cN/dtex, the breaking elongation percentage was 12.6 %. The moisture content of PEEK fiber was 2.19 %, and the average abrasion resistance of PEEK fabric was 6785 times. After a heat aging at 270 ℃ for 50 days, PEEK fibers yellowed and became brittle, the dimensional change of PEEK fabric was -9.9 %, but the breaking strength retained about 80%. Through IR, XRD and DSC analysis, it was found that the change of mechanical performance and color of PEEK fiber after heat aging were due to the relaxation of segments and the breaks or branched of few chains. And the increasing and perfecting of crystalline were the main reasons for the high conservation rate on the strength of PEEK fiber.

  Development of anionic polyester/polyamide microfibers

CONG Sen-Zi, QU Ming-Hai

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  11-14. 

Abstract ( 872 )   PDF (987KB) ( 361 )   Save

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Preparation of PVA/CS/Ce(NO3)3 blend fiber felt and its applications to Cr(Ⅵ) ions

LU Li-Ping, WANG Fang-Fang, WU Min

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  15-19. 

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The blend solution of polyvinyl alcohol(PVA) and chitosan(CS) and cerous nitrate(Ce(NO3)3) dissolving in dilute acetic at different mass ratios was spun into PVA/CS/Ce(NO3)3 blend fiber felt via electrospinning process.Using scanning electron microscopy and infrared spectrum on the adsorption of samples before and after the plating. Studied pH、time and concentration for Cr(Ⅵ) adsorption influence.Results show:the adsorption of metal ions were binding of metal ions to the chelating sites on the blend fiber felt,the effect of adsorption was the best when pH=4,the adsorption data of Cr(Ⅵ) were fitted well with langmuir isotherm,the equilibrium adsorption capacities were 59.81mg/g,the dispel of Cr(Ⅵ) can reach 87%.

 Preparation and performance of polyethersulfone hollow-fiber membrane

LAN Ping, WEN Yi-Li, WANG Wei, HUANG Xiao-Jun

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  20-24. 

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Polyethersulfone (PES) hollow fiber membranes have been widely used in many fields, such as ultrafiltration, microfiltration, reverse osmosis, liquid/liquid or liquid/solid separation, gas separation, hemodialysis, and so on. In this paper, the sheet PES hollow fiber membranes were prepared. The morphology and performance of membranes can be controlled. By studying the influence of the compositions and conditions on the morphology and performance of PES hollow fiber membrane, the relationship of morphology and performance of the membrane is acquired. Immerse phase inversion was used as membranes preparation method. The performance of the membrane was controlled by changing the concentration of PES, air setting time, and so on. It was found that the membrane morphologies were changed by the temperature of coagulation bath obviously. Porosity, pure water flux, scanning electron microscopy(SEM) were used to characterize the morphology and performance of the membranes. From the study, the parameters for membrane preparation with good performance and ideal structure were summarized.

Preparation and characterization of conductive fabric with organic-inorganic composite film

BIAN Xue-Hai, ZHAO Ya-Ping, MENG Yun, CAI Zai-Sheng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  25-30. 

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Fe3O4 nanoparticles with uniform size were dispersed in the sodium dodecyl benzenesulfonate (SDBS) micelles together with methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMOS). In the presence of hydrochloric acid nano-scale SiO2/Fe3O4 magnetic fluids were prepared by the hydrolysis and polycondensation process of MTMOS on the surface of Fe3O4 nanoparticles. Conductive textiles based on organic-inorganic composite films with polyaniline and nano-magnetic particles were prepared by two-step method, which had lower resistivity compared with conductive textiles based on polyaniline single-layer film, and the resistivity decreased with the addition amount of nano-magnetic particles.

 Design of double-layer yarn-dyed fabrics based on different distribution of connection points

JIANG Xiu-Xiang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  31-34. 

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The design methods of the double-layer yarn-dyed fabrics which are connectcd by the connection points is focused on the arrengement of the connection points. Based on the analysis of the structure of the knotting up and down double-layer yarn-dyed fabrics, it is researched the design methods of this kind of fabrics with different distribution of the connection points. When the connection points are highly concentrated and concealed, the upper & lower layers are close connected, then two-faced fabric can be formed; When the connection points are sparsely arranged and relatively concealed, the two layers are partly separateted, the exterior of the fabric is determinged by the yarns of the upper layer; When the connection points form the mini-figures on the fabrics surface, a unique double-layer yarn-dyed small jacquard fabric comes into being.

Spectrophotometric color matching algorithm of jacquard fabric with all colored wefts based on Kubelka-Munk double constant theory

ZHOU Hua, WANG Chun-Yan, LUO Lai-Li, LI Jing, LI Dan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  35-39. 

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Different color of yarn and fabric structure could get Weft-all-coloring jacquard fabric through suitable matching, which could obtain various kinds of floriated pattern from fabric surface and rich color. Because of the colorful yarn and fabric structures, color designing still remains a problem to be solved in production. In addition, there haven’t ideal colorful model to predict jacquard fabric structure. In view of the above problems , this paper use five primary samples, white, blank, red, yellow and green yarn to prepare many weft-all-coloring jacquard fabric of single-warp and double-weft. Though a large number of exprimental color about a datacolor 600 plus spectrophotometric, we can calculate the theory of Kubelka-Munk absorption coefficients (K) and scattering coefficients (S) of all yarns and color proportion of weft jacquard fabric with all-coloring. The results show that the theory of Kubelka-Munk can good explain the relationship between color of weft jacquard fabric with all-coloring and color proportion.

Application of Kronecker product on derivative crepe weave design

WANG Xu, BI Song-Mei

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  40-45. 

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To improve the efficiency for design crepe weave, the generation method of derivative crepe weave matrix based on Kronecker product was studied in present study. According to the design rule for derivative crepe weave, the weave matrix resulted from different methods such as embedding method, reinforcement method and replacement method to the prototype crepe weave were fulfilled by Kronecker product method. The results indicated that Kronecker product can be used to design derivative crepe weave based on embedding method, reinforcement method and replacement method conveniently and automatic generate crepe weave matrix with different styles due to different embedded weave, different reinforcement method or different replaced weave. This method expands design idea and provides an effective tool for crepe weave.

 Difference of textile pH value detection standards and correlation analysis of detection results

ZHANG Chang-Huan, CHEN Li-Hua

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  46-49. 

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Abstract In this paper, the differences among different pH testing standards of textiles were analyzed, the influences of different pH testing standards on pH determination results and the correlation between pH determination results were tested and researched. It is showed that pH testing method of JIS and AATCC pH testing standards are convenient, but pH testing method of GB and ISO pH testing standards are fussy. The pH testing standards are arranged in increasing order of pH determination results, which is GB(ISO) and JIS and AATCC. The relations between pH determination results of JIS and AATCC pH testing standards are significant linear correlativity. The relations between pH determination results of GB(ISO) and JIS pH testing standards and between GB(ISO) and AATCC pH testing standards are better linear correlativity. The research results can supply a certain reference to the better application of pH testing standards to textiles industry and testing organization.

Influence of activation methods on waste cotton-polyester fabric recycling

YAN Jing-Xue, ZHANG Rui-Yun

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  50-55. 

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In order to better resolve cotton component from the waste cotton-polyester blended fabrics, the paper adopted four different activation methods, including sodium hydroxide、sodium hydroxide & ultrasonic、ethylenediamine and ethylenediamine & ultrasonic, to activate the blended fabrics and gain the optimize basing on minimizing the impact on polyester and maximizing the solubility of cotton cellulose. Researching the impacts of four different activation methods on mass、mechanical properties and chemical structures of waste cotton-polyester blended fabrics, the results revealed that the sodium hydroxide、sodium hydroxide and ultrasonic have less effect on polyester, and can be used to activate the waste cotton-polyester blend fabrics. The influences of the two methods above on molecular structure and solubility of cotton fibers showed that sodium hydroxide & ultrasonic is the best suitable way to activate the waste cotton-polyester blended fabrics.

 Process optimization of composite microorganisms of ramie

DU Zhao-Fang, HUANG Fu-Rong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  56-61. 

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Using mixed seed liquid of bacillus B2 and aspergillus M2 for degumming of ramie, we can confirm the optimal conditions of joint strains enzymatic degumming process by the L18（36） orthogonal experiment:bacillus B2 and aspergillus M2 seed liquid inoculation amount of 6% and 11%, respectively, the proportion of water and material is 15:1 (mL/g),unglued initial pH value is 6, temperature for 35℃, and unglued time is 50 h.Under the best condition, unglued rate of treated ramie can reach 31.9%, fibre fineness and fibre breaking strength are accord with the standard of secondary ramie. Using the infrared spectrometry and scanning electron microscope for the test and analysis, the results proved that after unglued by biological enzyme,obtained the smooth, flat and slim ramie, of which the molecular structure of the glue complex changed obviously.

Promotion of dihexyl dimethyl ammonium bromide to reactive dyeing of silk

ZHONG Ling, ZHANG Guang-Xian, ZHANG Feng-Xiu, XUE Xu-Ting

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  62-68. 

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This paper studied the dyeing effect of di-hexyl dimethyl ammonium bromide (DDAB) as the dyeing accelerating on dyeing silk with three reactive dyes and the adsorption kinetics of dyeing. The results showed that DDAB had an efficient stimulative role in dyeing silk with reactive dyes. The balanced dye uptake of reactive red B-3BF, reactive yellow B-4RFN and reactive dark blue B-2GLN was 98.7%, 98.4% and 97.3%, respectively. And accordingly the fixation of three reactive dyes was 98.2%, 97.4% and 96.3%, respectively. The exhaustion of three reactive dyes reached the highest basicly, when the concentration of DDAB was 2.24g/L, 2.72g/L and 3.60g/L, respectively. The kinetics of three reactive dyes on silk with DDAB as accelerant was found to fit the pseudo second-order sorption kinetics equation well. Meanwhile the activation energy of reactive red B-3BF, reactive yellow B-4RFN and reactive dark blue B-2GLN dyeing on silk with DDAB as accelerant was 18.23, 14.83 and 15.75 kJ/mol, respectively.

 Computer color measuring and matching and overdyeing of colored cotton fabric

YU Bo, WANG Wei-Ming, ZHANG Yue-Feng, CAI Zai-Sheng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  69-73. 

Abstract ( 1003 )   PDF (1183KB) ( 443 )   Save

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The formula of computer measuring and matching color was deduced, and the basic database of the color cotton base fabrics was established. The blank cotton fabrics were dyed by single dye once and twice, and their total amount of dye were same. The results showed that the K/S values of cotton fabrics ,were dyed twice, were lower than once. According to this phenomenon, the existing overdyeing function was questioned. Basic databases of the blank cotton base fabrics and the color cotton base fabrics were established respectively, and the accuracy of this database was tested. The results showed that the K/S value of dye concentration per unit, obtained from the basic database of the color cotton base fabrics directly, was more suitable for the overdyeing process of color cotton fabrics. As a result, the overdyeing number was reduced and the overdyeing time was decreased. The theory of computer measuring and matching color was expanded to a certain extent according to actual situation and provided a new method of color cotton fabric overdyeing for the application of computer measuring and matching color in this paper.

preparation of modified protease and its application on antifelting finishing of wool

ZHANG Bing, ZHANG Chi, XIAO Sheng-Mu, YAN Ke-Lu

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  74-80. 

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Abstract:A method to immobilize Eudragit L100 covalently on the surface of proteases （Esperase 8.0L）reactive sites was reported.The main purpose of the preasented work was to use this proteases modified in the bio-finishing process of wool fibres,to target enzyme action to the outer parts of wool fibres,i.e.to avoid the diffusion and consequent destroying of the inner parts of the wool fibre structure in the case of native proteases using.The modified Esperase 8.0L was obtained by modification with carbodiimide (EDC) activated Eudragit L100.It's molecular weight increased from 4.1-6.5KD to 45KD. Modified enzyme have a benefit effect on the wool fibres felting behaviours,relativly to the enzyme（Esperase 8.0L）,weightlessness rate reduced by 21.9%, fabric tensile strength increased by 13.1%.Besides, the felt resistance of wool was significantly improved after finishing by the proteases modified,the area of shrinkage rate from 8.12% lower to 0.89% .

Synthesis,characterization and antibacterial activity of rare earth lanthanum- rutin complex

LIN Jian-Yuan, LUO Lin-Feng, CHEN Liang, YU Hong-Zhe

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  81-85. 

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To study the structure of rare earth complexes of rutin and antibacterial activity, with the rare earth metal lanthanum (III) chloride and rutin as the raw material, combined with ethanol solution, then the lanthanum-rare earth complexes of rutin turns out. Use the DMSO as the solvent and scan the rutin and its complex’s wavelength among the range of 200 ~ 400nm by UV spectroscopy, then the two characteristic peaks are found red shifting and blue shifting respectively. And the fourier infrared spectral analysis of the complex shows that the characteristic absorption peak ,appears in the 614.88 cm-1, indicating that the complex combined with rare earth lanthanum (III) and rutin in the form of La-O bond. The result agrees with analysis of ultraviolet-visible (UV) absorption spectrum.At the same time, the study of fluorescence properties of the complex shows the complex has a strong correlation of the changes of fluorescence intensity at pH5~7 with the concentration among 2×10-5 mol?L-1~2×10-9 mol?L-1. Antibacterial activity tests shows that lanthanum - rutin complex is superior to the antibacterial activity of rare earth lanthanum (Ⅲ) ion and rutin ligands.The complexes have a strong antibacterial activity in antibacterial textiles.

Wet-on-wet steam flame-retardant finishing of dyed pure cotton canvas

ZHANG Guang-Zhi, HUANG Xiao-Hua

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  86-90. 

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The flame-retardant finishing of traditional pad-dry-cure technology which caused loss to breaking strength on fabrics and the change of colour, influenced using on canvas.So a steam flame-retardant finish process has been studied.The influence of concentration of flame-retardant finish agent and catalyst, temperature of steaming on the effect of flame-retardant finishing,breaking strength and the change of colour was investigated.Using orthogonal analysis optimized process prescription and process conditions of the steam flame-retardant finishing.The experimental results revealed that compared with the traditional flame-retardant finish process，the fabric treated by this wet state process showed equivalent flame-retardant property but better breaking strength and other indexes.especially the color.The best technique were: flame-retardant finish agent CFR:350g/L,catalyst C52:40g/L, temperature of steaming 140℃,time of steaming 30min.

Determination of chromium residue in cashmere dyeing with Lanaset by graphite furnace atomic absorption spectrometry

LI Zhi-Gang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  91-94. 

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Lanaset is activated by the bromide containing acrylamide groups of wool with reactive dyes and metal complex dyes mixed in order to understand Lanaset chromium dyes for dyeing wool residues, microwave digestion pretreatment to HNO3 + H2O2 (5 +2, V / V) as a digestion reagent, using graphite furnace atomic absorption (GFAAS) method, to establish a simple, sensitive and accurate cashmere in the GFAAS determination of trace amounts of chromium . Set the temperature of the sample digested ash 1100 ℃, experimental atomization temperature of 2300 ℃. The results show that the minimum detectable concentration of chromium is 0.22 μg / L, relative standard deviation of 3.6% to 6.3%, recovery was 96.0% ~ 102.3%. 15 test samples for testing, chromium content in the 0.126 ~ 0.289 mg / kg range, significantly lower than the limit required Eco-textiles standards.

Study on adsorption thermodynamics and kinetics of thermal-modified attapulgite clay

WANG Yu-Huan, WANG Jian-Qing, ZHANG Yu, CAO Dian-Yuan, LI Rong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  95-100. 

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The adsorptive thermodynamics and kinetics of Methylene Blue on thermal-modified Attapulgite clay was investigated. It can be seen that the Methylene Blue equilibrium adsorption data were ?tted to Langmuir isotherm models and the adsorptive process as the Methylene Blue was in an initial concentration range of 50～600mg/L and the experimental temperature was in the range of 298～338K. The adsorption enthalpy changes and the adsorption Gibbs free energy changes are 1.92KJ/mol and -25.429～-29.097 KJ/mol independently. The positive values of adsorption entropy changes illustrate the adsorption of the Methylene Blue onto thermal-modified Attapulgite clay is endothermic and spontaneous. The adsorptive kinetics data were in good agreement with the pseudo-second rate equation. The apparent adsorption activation energy of the thermal-modified Attapulgite clay is 13.5676KJ/mol. It suggests this adsorption may involve the combined control of chemical adsorption and film diffusion.

Objective evaluation on thermal adjusting effect of PCM cooling vest under high temperature and strong radiation

WANG Yun-Yi, ZHAO Meng-Meng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  101-105. 

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Abstract At industrial workplaces, such as firefighting, steel work, metallurgical and glass work, the workers are inclined to suffer from heat strain. In this paper a cooling vest which was used for alleviating heat strain was studied. Thermal manikin was utilized to evaluate the thermal adjusting effect of the cooling vest in a hot environment. The environment temperature was 32 oC with a strong radiation of 1000W to simulate a steel working environment. In the simulated two working shifts, the skin temperature for each local part of the manikin had the following trend: T head and neck > T other parts > T abdomen and buttocks > T chest and back. At the end of the experiment, the skin temperature of chest and back of the manikin wearing the cooling was 34 oC, which was 6.3 oC lower than that of without wearing the cooling vest. The experiment indicated that the cooling vest could decrease the skin temperature of manikin’s torso covered with PCMs, and that alleviate heat stress and prolong working time in hot environment.

Comparative study of Encroaching satin stitch and Parallel long and short stitch in modern fork embroidered costume

ZHANG Jing-Qiong, LI Di

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  106-110. 

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Modern folk clothing is not only a material carrier for embroidery technique, but also an important research foundation for it. On the basis of observation, statistics and analysis of modern fork embroidered costumes which were collected by Shanghai "Feng Song Tang" Museum and Shen Shou Embroidery Institute in Nantong, we mainly studied the encroaching satin stitch and parallel long and short stitch. We compared the two stitches through related theories knowledge in order to explore the difference and linkages between them in the aspect of production process and performance effects. Then we further analyzed the two needles’ restrictive, special and comprehensive in the performance combined with physical clothing colors, fabrics and other factors. This study has practical significance of inheriting valuable Chinese traditional craftsmanship, it also has reference significance of decoration technique in fashion design today.

Clasification of figure type and size grading of young woman of Fujian province

HUANG Can-Yi

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  111-115. 

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The classification of figure type is an important issue in apparel size standard, and the method of classification of figure type closely relates to the coverage of apparel size and the easy use of size standard. The body measurement of 500 young women from Fujian province was carried out, and SPSS software was used to conduct statistic analysis of 13 variables chosen from the measurements, as well as11 derived variables. Then clustering analysis was used to classify the figure type separatily by the upper body and the lower body, and each of them was subdivided into 4 types. Finally, values of imtermediate of every type and grading data of every measurement of each type were calculated through regression anslysis. So the database of classification of figure type and size of young women of Fujian Province was obtained.

Traditional totem patterns in application and evolution of modern dress

TU Yi-Jia, LI Xiao-Rong, TANG Chao

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  116-120. 

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The typical artistic value of traditional totem embodied in traditional and minority costume was summarized, and on basis of the Chinese traditional totem culture,the evolution methods of the traditional totem patterns such as fundamental-element expansion, xolor evolution, space extension from two dimensions to many dimensions, xombination of various styles and homologous heterogeneity are studied in combination with new technologies and ideas of new era through decomposition-combination, and deformation. This research work has provided abundant design elements for modern costume and given a guide for the application of traditional totem patterns in the modern costume.

Craftwork of wax printing of Waishu Miao in Zhijin county of Guizhou province

LIU Yi-Ping, WU Xiao-Li, WU Da-Yang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  121-126. 

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Waishu Miao, living in the northwest of Guizhou province of the Chinese nation., is one branch of Miao nationality. Because of locating in a geographically remote areas, traditional wax printing is conserved comparatively in good condition and plays an important role of Waishu Miao’s daily life. Based on the Materials of fieldwork, it is analysed that traditional Waishu Miao’s wax printing in Zhijin county of Gouzhou province, including the preparation of materials and tools, desizing, painting wax, dyeing, dewaxing, cleaning and finishing of fabrics. It is summarized that changes on fabric, smelting furnace, representation and application range of traditional Waishu Miao’s wax printing in Zhijin county of Guizhou province. Nowadays, traditional wax printing of Waishu Miao not only has the material value but also the culture heritage which should be given adequate attention and protected.

Design of automatic pattern laser-cutting system based on DSP control

JIANG Shui-Xiu, ZHANG Sen-Lin, YIN Jian-Jun

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  127-130. 

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To achieve clothing cutting at high control precision and high speed, the control system of cutting automatically by laser is developed. Taking advantages of Digital Signal Processor TMS320F2812’s rich hardware resources, the system improved laser cutting technology and tangent motion interpolation algorithm. Compared with congener products, it deleted the vibration making by mechanical cutter, meanwhile improving the work efficiency and quality for clothing cutting or pattern cutting. Based on laser cutting principle and general design ideas of auto-cutting system, the mechanical structure with hardware and software is developed for the cutting control system . It involved Secure Digital Card storage and FAT32 file management process to transferring files for trajectory control. The results indicated that this automatic laser-cutting system can cutting more exactly and efficiently.

Automatic test device and test method for yarn linear density and weight eveness

ZHOU Bin, WANG Hui-Ling, FAN Li-Shan, MIN Ting-Yuan, WANG Shao-Hui

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  131-134. 

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Aiming at the defects which exist in present yarn linear density test device, an automatic test device about yarn linear density and weight eveness was developed. This device included electronic balance, spring linear pressure, electronic calculation length , frequency conversion winding and controller. Test length and advanced tension were set refering to GB/T 4743 2009, test procedures and methods about linear density and weight eveness were introduced using this device. A linear density contrast test was done taking T/R65/35 bobbin yarns as example, practice showed: its accuracy of the test results was 99.7%, while the test results accuracy using traditional device was only 95%. and test process was convenient, yarn was continuous without waste yarn, it also had smaller volume, so it had higher application and promotion value.

Design of electronic shogging system based on double PID control on warp knitting machine

ZHENG Bao-Ping, JIANG Gao-Ming, XIA Feng-Lin, ZHANG Qi, QIN Wen

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  135-139. 

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The control system of guide bar electronic shogging become a bottleneck of fully electronic on high speed warp knitting machine, because it can’t meet the requirements of high speed. In view of the defects of position control mode for electronic shogging system of high-speed warp knitting machine, such as a long time to target and lack of dynamic response. A kind of electronic shogging control system of high speed warp knitting machine which based on double PID speed control mode was designed. In the control system, first, a shogging speed curve based on lapping digital is pre-planned, and then combining control card with servo driver to design PID control algorithm , which in order to ensure that the controllability of the positon of shogging movement and the impact of low rigidity . Through theoretical analysis and experimental tests, confirmed that the control system can meet the high speed, high accuracy , high dynamic response and high-frequency start and stop shogging lapping digital requirements for warp knitting machine of high speed.

Research of Consumers’ sensory image on fabric material based on consumers’ perception

HAN Ting, HU Jie-Ming, SUN Shou-Qian

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  140-144. 

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Consumer centered design is a method that ensure design meet the expectations of consumers. Design pay more and more attention to consumers’ sensory experiences. This study aims to create an attractive sensory characteristics of design through the research of consumers’ sensory image. This research took fabric material as the research object, investigated consumers’ sensory image, established the senses imager of the material characteristic. Integration of a variety of methods were adopted in the study. Consumers’ perception space was constructed based on multidimensional scaling method, and five clusters of material group were founded. Four main factors of material image were extracted using factor analysis method. The corresponding characteristics of each material cluster was founded using regression analysis method. The results provide consumer oriented design valuable reference.

 Personal garment rapid design based on customer online experience

CHEN Gang, CHEN Jian, WANG Jin, CHEN Qi-Jin, BI Xin-Yu, LU Guo-Dong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  145-149. 

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A new garment rapid design method is proposed, taking the customer `s participation into the design, which can offer a better experience for the customer in the interaction design. The interactive texture design has been studied and a creative editing method of the clothing style picture is advanced based on the RBF algorithm; Customer can experience the transformation in the style profile and partial graphic, then edit the clothing style pattern according to personal preferences; Also ，3D garment curve templates can be classified and build based on the topology clustering from the garment knowledge and rapid generation of clothing is achieved; At last, adjust the personalized version garment model to meet the customer requirements in the style picture and the curve template.

Research progress of textiles based on bionic principles

LI Na, LI Hui-Qin, GONG Ji-Xian, LI Qiu-Jin, ZHANG Jian-Fei

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(5):  150-156. 

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This paper mainly introduces the results achieved in the area of bionic textiles from three aspects: bionic fibers, bionic fabrics and apparels, and bionic materials. In this paper, it is summarized and classified according to the shape, the structure and function, and it also introduces the research progress of bionic textiles, the development trend of bionics technology. In recent years, nano-materials combined with bionic principles, bionic medical materials have become a hotspot and have vast potential for future development. Now, bionic textiles tend to be compound, intelligentized, and environmental, and will play a more important role in people ’s daily life and social production.