Table of Content

15 August 2012, Volume 33 Issue 8

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Preparation and properties of PTT/PANI composite conductive fibers

HONG Jian-Han, LI Min, PAN Zhi-Juan, YAO Mu

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  1-6. 

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PTT/PANI composite conductive fibers were prepared using in-situ polymerization. The effects of reaction time, plasma pre-treatment, stretching on the electrical conductivity of composite fiber were investigated. The surface morphology, thermal characterization and mechanical characterization of composite fiber were also studied. The results indicated that PTT/PANI composite fibers obtained by in-situ polymerization with good conducting property, and the electrical conductivity reached 10-2S/cm, and much higher electrical conductivity would reached by base fiber’s oxygen plasma pre-treatment. Reaction time affects the electrical conductivity of PTT/PANI composite fiber obviously. The electrical conductivity of composite fiber declines significantly after stretching. The thermal stability of composite fiber is better than that of base fiber over 430℃, and the mechanical property of composite fiber is also better than that of base fiber.

Investigation on process of multi-needle electrospinning

LIU Cheng-Kun, LAI Kan, SUN Run-Jun, CHEN Mei-Yu

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  7-10. 

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Effects of needle spacing and number on electric-field distribution and morphology of electrospun fibers were studied by means of the Maxwell electric-field-simulation software and concrete experiments. Results showed that decrease of the mutual interference of electric field due to the increase of needle spacing would lead to the transition of outlook of the fibrous web from ellipse to circle. In multi-needle electrospinning process, there was a significant difference for the outlook of fibrous webs obtained by the needles in the middle and those on the margin. According to the research conclusions, a steel-belt-type multi-needle electrospinning set-up was designed in this paper. Homogeneous nanofiber webs with different width and specifications could be prepared through adjustment of the distribution of needles and the rotation of steel belt.

Breaking behavior of homogeneous and heterogeneous keratin composite membranes

LIU Yang, YU Wei-Dong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  11-18. 

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In order to select the most suitable short fibre reinforcements in keratin matrix composite membranes, this paper analyzed the break and damage characteristics of neat regenerated keratin membranes, as well as inorganic whiskers and wool fibrils reinforced keratin heterogeneous and homogeneous composite membranes, and then the effect of branched fibrils ends on achieving reinforcement and toughness simultaneously were also explored. The tensile curves were discussed by stages, and combined with the microscopic photographs, so the results suggested that the mechanical properties and shape character of reinforcements have some effect on composite membranes. However, the matrix mechanical properties were taken priority in composites, and cracks points were introduced accompanied with reinforcements, which can degrade the composites mechanical performance, but only the proper mechanical properties and shape character of reinforcements can effectively improve the composites properties.

Identification of Cashmere and Wool by Genetic Technology

JIN Mei-Ju, RUAN Yong, LI Xiang, SHI Dong-Liang, YE Ling

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  19-23. 

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With the development of wool modification technology，The traditional identify cashmere and wool with optical microscopy has gradually shown its limitations. Using gene technology, utilization the difference of goat and sheep between specific base sequence , It can be determine the species by their own base sequence, through PCR amplification, DNA sequencing, then accurate identification cashmere or wool fibers.This paper studied the DNA identification method of cashmere wool ,through mtDNA sequencing experiment , with pure cashmere wool fiber and different proportion of cashmere wool mixture. The results show that 1) the developed DNA sequence testing method by the genetic technology can accurately identify of cashmere and wool fiber, even much smaller proportion; 2) The pure cashmere wool fiber can identify by the specific base sequences using a set of primers; 3) The cashmere wool mixture can be identify by their own sequences whether containing cashmere or wool, which are obtained firstly by sequencing with cashmere primer and wool primer, respectively.specific base sequences using a set of primers; 3) The cashmere wool mixture can be identify by their own sequences whether containing cashmere or wool, which are obtained firstly by sequencing with cashmere primer and wool primer, respectively.

Components separation of wastes polyester-cotton blended textile with ionic liquid dessolving method

RONG Zhen, CHEN Yun, TANG Shi-Jun

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  24-29. 

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Ionic liquid [BMIM]Cl was used to separate polyester and cotton from polyester-cotton blended textile wastes. The influences of dissolution of cotton fiber in ionic liquid, such as pretreatment, temperature, solid-liquid ratio, and time were studied, and the structure and properties of yarn before and after dissolution were characterized. The results showed that this method can effectively separate polyester-cotton blended textile wastes of lower cotton content. The dissolved cotton can be returned to solid cellulose. The residual yarn was polyester which performance has no significant change. The suitable dissolution process parameters: immersing yarn 72h in water under the room temperature, dissolving temperature 130~135℃, solid-liquid ratio of 1g~1.1g cotton: 50g ionic liquids, dissolving time 4h, and so on.

Comparative analysis of cotton fibers unearthed from Yingpan and modern cotton fibers

CAO Qiu-Ling, ZHU Su-Kang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  30-34. 

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This paper examined the structures and properties of archaeological cotton fibers-Gossypium herbaceum- dated back 845±40 years BP, unearthed from Yingpan in Xinjiang Autonomous Region, China. Modern cotton fibers -Gossypium herbaceum were selected for comparison with the unearthed variety, and various approaches were used for the investigation, such as the optical microscopy, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), infrared (IR) spectra and X-ray diffraction (XRD). So as to establishes a more-detailed data record for the ancient cotton fibers and have a better understanding of the archaeological cotton fibers. The unearthed fibers have an average length of 18.3 mm, fineness of 0.27 tex, and convolutions of approximately 53 turns per centimeter. The archaeological fibers are found to share similar characteristics with the modern fibers. Both the crystallinity and the crystalline sizes of the unearthed fibers are no less than those of the modern fibers, suggesting the dry conditions in Xinjiang have preserved the fibers well. Significant reduction in both breaking strength and breaking elongation is likely attributable to the degradation of the average degree of polymerization detected in the unearthed cotton fibers.

Preparation and characterization of PLA spunbonded nonwoven material

CHANG Guo, DENG Bing-Yao, LIU Qing-Sheng, SHEN Lu, ZHANG Yue

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  35-39. 

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Abstract The thermal properties of PLA pellets were mainly studied. At the same time, the PLA spunbonded materials were prepared successfully. The influences of drawing on its mechanical properties and filtration efficiency were analyzed to provide the reference for experiment preparation and industrial production. The melting point of pellets was determined by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). The initial decomposing temperature and maximum decomposing temperature of it were indicated by thermal gravimetry (TG). The results of materials properties testing showed that the area density of PLA sponbunded materials was relatively uniform. With the increasing of drawing, the fiber fineness was increased, both he breaking strength and bursting strength were also increased, while the breaking elongation was a little decreased. And the mean pore and porosity of materials were decreased, so the filter efficiency was improved.

Analysis of twist distribution characteristics of self-twist yarns

CUI Hong, XIAO Zhi-Yong, YU Chong-Wen

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  40-45. 

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The difference of the twist structure and properties in in-phase self-twist yarn and phased yarn is mainly discussed. There are three kinds of yarn zones: twist-twist zone, twist-zerotwist zone, zerotwist-zerotwist zone, existing in one cycle length of self-twist yarn. The existence of phase difference decreases the zerotwist length in yarn. When the phase difference (value c) is close or equal to the length of the twistless area (value b), the length of zerotwist-zerotwist zone obtain an minimum so that the best properties of self-twist yarn can be achieved. The test results of spun in-phase and phased self-twist yarn are accordance with the above conclusion.

Wearability test and analysis of kapok-containing fabrics

HONG Jie, LIU Mei-Cheng, MO Jing-Yu, WU Pei-Yun, CHEN Dong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  46-49. 

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In order to better study the wearability of fabric containing kapok, three kinds of fabric were designed and made. The first kind is viscose/polyester blend fabric. The second one is viscose/polyester/kapok blend fabric. Based on the second kind fabric, the weft yarns of the third fabric were changed into viscose/polyester/kapok/silver fiber blend, which contains both kapok and silver fiber. The wearability of these fabrics were tested, compared and analyzed. The results showed that add kapok fibers in the viscose/polyester blend fabric can improve the warm retention, anti-ultraviolet and crease recovery, also the fabric is more likely to accumulate charge but with fast charge dissipation. The air permeability, drapability, abrasive resistance and wettability turned worse. In the third fabric, it is found that because of adding silver fiber, the warm retention, anti-ultraviolet and antistatic property was further improved. The water absorption property was improved a certain degree. The abrasive resistance was improved at the beginning stage when the silver layer was not destroyed. The crease recovery turned worse in the warpwise and better in the weftwise. However, the air permeability and drapability of the fabric turned worse.

Woven fabric linear defect research based on AR model

ZHU Jun-Ling, WANG Jun, ZHANG Xiao-Nan, LI Li-Qing, CHEN Xia, PANG Ming-Jun

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  50-54. 

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As detect the effect of woven fabric linear defects is poor, in this paper, the spectral estimation method of AR model was used to research that problem. Firstly, split fabric image obtained into certain size according to child windows. And also from both the vertical and horizontal directions, turn gray value of the child windows into variance sequence by the way of using the variance projection. Secondly, choose the appropriate AR model order and use Burg algorithm to estimate spectral data. Lastly, according to the correlation coefficient with the spectral estimation between a defect image and a normal one, defect and its location will be detected. The effectiveness of the method of the linear defects detection on woven fabric is proved by experiment.

Fuzzy recognition of fabric texture with double conditions

WANG Xiu-Chen, LI Xiao-Jiu

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  55-58. 

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In order to extract the texture of fabric image, a new fuzzy recognition method on double condition is proposed in this paper. With this algorithm, the gray level of image is analyzed to determine the standard fuzzy set of gray wave in any row and column. And then, the membership function considering different gray values and pixel positions on double condition is given to classify the gray wave in any row and column, and the gray wave of texture only with two gray values is transformed. At last, all gray wave combinations of texture are reduced into binary texture image of fabric. All this can provide the basis of image analysis for density, texture evenness and defects recognition. Experiments and analysis show that this algorithm in this paper can establish gray wave with pulse characteristic according to the fuzzy partition of gray wave and binary texture image extraction of fabric with two gray values. This algorithm can provide simple and useful data models of fabric texture for further parameters analysis of fabric images.

Fabric skew detection based on wavelet transform and projection profile analysis

DING Shu-Min, LI Chun-Lei, LIU Zhou-Feng

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  59-65. 

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In order to precisely detect skew of fabric images, we propose a novel skew detection scheme based on wavelet transform and projection profile analysis. Firstly, the test image is decomposed by wavelet transform, and the weft boundary is generated by binarizing the horizontal sub-band coefficients matrix according to setting optimal threshold. Then morphological method is adopted to reduce serrated points around weft boundary. In the end, a projection profile is computed at each angle, and the angle that maximizes a criterion function is regarded as the skew angle. Experimental results show that the skew angles detected by the proposed detection algorithm are of higher accuracy.

Preliminary application of degumming bacterium in scouring of flax roves

ZHENG Lei, DING Ruo-Yao, YU Chong-Wen

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  66-70. 

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An investigation of scouring of flax roves with pseudomonas sp DA10(CGMCC No.3851) and their polysaccharide-degrading enzymes was carried out. Dosage of fermentation beers, initial pH, scouring temperature and treatment time were studied. The result indicated that flax roves treated with 150mL fermentation beers at 40℃ and pH 9 for more 7h or less also could gain satisfied performances in mild bacteria scouring. However, pretreatments intervention can improve bacteria scouring greatly with higher degree of splitting and fiber bundles strength. The properties of fibers after low-concentration alkali-bacteria combined scouring were the best. SEM was also used to assess removal of gummy materials. It indicated that flax roves treated by bacteria scouring at initial pH 9 and 40℃ for 8h could achieve a specific degree of separation in spite of incomplete removal of gummy materials. When alkali pretreated fibers were subsequently treated by bacteria scouring, a complete removal of gummy materials was observed.

Preparation and application of peroxide bleaching activator

DONG Ling

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  71-75. 

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Aiming at the problems existing in traditional cotton fabric bleaching such as high temperature and strength loss, a peroxide bleaching activator was prepared, and the main effective component was nonanoyloxybenzenesulfonate sodium(NOBS). The optimal synthetic conditions were as follows: 4-phenolsulfonate sodium was dissolved in sodium hydroxide solution, the mol ratio of sodium hydroxide to 4-phenolsulfonate sodium was 1:1. The mol ratio of nonanoyl chloride to 4-phenolsulfonate sodium was 1.3:1. Then nonanoyl chloride was added dropwise, followed by stirring at 30 ℃ for 80 min with 5% phase transfer catalyst tetrabutylammonium bromide and the peroxide bleaching activator was obtained. The results showed that addition of the activator to the scouring and bleaching process can lower the temperature of bleaching to 80 ℃ and similar effects were obtained. Compared to the traditional bleaching, the strength loss and the energy consumption was lower.

Simultaneous determination of seven allergenous disperse dyestuffs in polyester sewing thread by high-performance liquid chromatography-ultraviolet detection

LI Zhi-Gang, YANG Hong-Lin

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  76-81. 

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To establish a method for the simultaneous determination of seven allergenous disperse dyestuffs, such as Disperse Yellow 1,Disperse Yellow 3, Disperse Yellow 9, Disperse Yellow 49, Disperse Red 1, Disperse Red 11, Disperse Red 17 in polyester sewing thread by high-performance liquid chromatography with ultraviolet detection. After the object analytes were extracted by methanol, the sample was separated on a C18 column by a gradient elution with acetonitrile- formic acid (0.1%)- ammonium acetate (0.02 mol/L) as the mobile phase. Detection was carried out by ultraviolet detector at 360 nm,440 nm and 480 nm. The extraction recoveries were between 90.0%~101.0%, and the RSDs were between 1.0%~ 5.4%. Calibration curves of the seven disperse dyestuffs were linear within the range of 1.0 mg/L ~50.0 mg/L with correlation coefficients of more than 0.999. The limits of detection (LOD) were between 0.2 mg/kg~1.0 mg/kg. This established method is simple, sensitive, accurate and good specificity for monitoring of the seven allergenous disperse dyestuffs in polyester sewing thread.

Cloning and expression of β-1，4-endoglucanas gene from Symbiobacterium thermophilum

JIANG Hai-Qin, BI Yun-Feng, HUA Xin-Chun, CHEN Li-Li, XU Xue-Fei, SHEN Ming-Hao

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  82-86. 

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Abstract: [Objective]To screen endoglucanas gene with thermostability,and construct themostable engineering bacteria with high enzyme activity.[Methods]A gene encoding endoglucanase from S.thermophilum IAM 14863 was cloned and recombinanted into expression vector pET32a(+),then the recombinant vector pET32a-Glu was transformed and expressed in E.coli BL21(DE3)PLYS.[Results]The whole length of is 1101bp,which encodes 366 amino acids.The result of SDS-PAGE showed that the gene was effectively expressed in E.coli BL21(DE3)PLYS,and the enzyme showed that a molecular weight of 60kDa approximately.The enzyme activity was 103 U/mL after purification.Characterization of the expression product showed that the optimum pH value was about 5,and the optimum reaction temperature was at 55℃,and expression product displayed better thermal stability(about 75℃)and pH stability. [Conclusion]The research first recombinanted β-1,4-endoglucanas gene from S.thermophilum into expression vector pET32a(+) and expressed highly in E. coli. It will lay the foundation for food,textile,chemical and other fields by widely using the enzyme.

Contrasts between different formaldehyde test standards of textiles and regression analysis of formaldehyde determination results

CHEN Li-Hua

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  87-91. 

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Abstract In this paper, the contrasts between different formaldehyde testing standards were analyzed ,the influences of different formaldehyde testing standards on formaldehyde determination results and the correlation between formaldehyde determination results were tested and researched. It is showed that there are a great deal of differences between GB(ISO) standard and JIS standard of resorcin in water extraction method，that there are a great deal of differences between GB(ISO) standard and JIS standard in vapour absorption method，and that there is individual difference between GB(ISO) standard and AATCC standard in vapour absorption method. It is also showed that released formaldehyde content of GB（ISO）testing standards is higher than free and hydrolyzed formaldehyde content of GB（ISO）testing standards, that released formaldehyde content of AATCC testing standards is higher than released formaldehyde content of GB（ISO）testing standards, that free and hydrolyzed formaldehyde content of JIS testing standards and GB（ISO）testing standards is not too different.The linear regression of formaldehyde determination results of the testing standards are highly significant and well fitting.The research results can supply a certain reference to the better application of formaldehyde testing standards to textiles industry and testing organization.

Antistatic properties of PDMDAAC/AM on polyester fabrics

LIU Xiao-Yun, WANG Xiao-Fang, ZHOU Lan

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  92-96. 

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Antistatic properties of P(dimethyldiallylammonium chloride/ acrylamide) (PDMDAAC/AM) on polyester fabric were discussed. Drying process and baking process were betaken respectiely. Contact angle measure, SEM and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy were emploied further to research it’s surface structure. The results indicated that polyester fabric showed good antistatic properties and durability dure to the strong adhension of PDMDAAC/AM. The discrepance of antistatic properties and bending length between two processes was caused by the association of PDMDAAC/AM in baking process.

Comparative study on thermal-wet comfort property of leather garment materials with different pores

WANG Li-Xin, FAN Xue-Rong, SUN You-Chang, CHAI Lei

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  97-102. 

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Leather garment has unique style characteristics and hot-wet comfort performance. Sheep garment leather, PU and PVC artificial materials are used as objects in the experiment. The indexes of t hot-wet comfort have been tested and analysed in order to find the difference between the three materials above. And then, according to SEM image of fiber woven state and pore distribution, the influence on hot-wet comfort performance left by fiber woven pore status in material structure has been studied. The experimental results show that the hot-wet comfort of leather is much better than that of artificial materials. Pores quantity, distribution and channels state in fiber structure and finishing film are the crucial factors that affect damp and hot comfort of leather clothing.

Application of pattern cutting design in fashion modeling

WU Yong-Hong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  103-107. 

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Abstract: The shear design of pattern is a method commonly used in garment structure design,which plays an important role in shaping the apparel modeling . With the continuous development of costume design, costume modeling is becoming more and more diverse, in order to adapt to these changes, the pattern design methods are also more and more. Based on the analysis of common and novel fashion apparel modeling pattern ,shearing method and its subsequent spread was classified, the shearing method for edge shear, internal shear and total shear, follow-up development mode is divided into parallel expansion and rotation expansion , and expatiates the shear and unfolded principle, analysis their methods of implementation using case , especially tests by fabric for new fashion styles of shear design , so provides reference of the corresponding shear method for the complicated modeling clothing.

Sewing skills research of traditional Jieyue blouse in Xiaozuo

LUO Jing, CUI Rong-Rong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  108-113. 

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The paper has researched traditional JieYue blouse in XiaoZuo from the aspects of its structure and sewing skills.As an important part of the HuiAnNv clothing,XiaoZuo JieYue blouse’s design, structure and sewing skills reflect its own culture characteristics.The paper uses the form of field survey,and records the sewing process of one typical XiaoZuo JieYue blouse,then further analysises the sewing skills which containing in body sewing and detail design.We can draw a conclusion that XiaoZuo JieYue blouse shows the technical skills and artistic characteristics on the basis of following traditional concept of creation,and reflects the stability aesthetic psychology and harmonious aesthetic ideas of XiaoZuo people,then expresses their good wish to life.

Intelligent control system of textile mill's air-conditioning based on ZigBee technology

DONG Fang-Wu, MA Zi-Yu, CHEN Gang, ZHAN Zhong-Yong

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  114-118. 

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Aiming at the timely requirement of real-time monitoring of Textile mill’s air-conditioning, the monitoring system of Textile Mill＇s Air-conditioning System which is based on ZigBee technology is put forward. pictured its System network structure. The S7-300 PLC from Siemens is choosed to be the controller of this system , and the CC2430 chip which is based on ZigBee technology is applied to be the controllers which is used to system environmental data collection and transmission, air conditioning equipment operation control and so on. Then the article devised one circuit schematic for performance data collecting, Control node of Equipment and monitoring network main node and so on. and design to secondary weighted fusion algorithm of the sensor data processing, improve Measurement data and control precision of the system.

Dynamic simulation of mechanism of GT421 dobby based on ADMAS

SHEN Yi, GAO Da-Niu, LIU Chun-Lei

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  119-123. 

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In order to do a reasonable mechanism dynamic simulation for GT421 rotary electronic dobby, firstly it needs a reasonable simplification and analysis for main drive mechanism, then completes the modeling, assembly and dynamic simulation to the heald lifting mechanism by Pro / E and ADMAS, and obtains the states of the movement rule and dynamic force of each component in the mechanism. Not only it makes the theoretical analysis and calculation to the relative pause time between the spline shaft and the rocker arm, and checks the main transmission mechanism model, but also it analyzes the strength on the key vulnerable components of the mechanism based on the statics design. In order to further consider the speed how it influences the mechanisms' motion and the components’ stress, it also makes the mechanism simulation in three kinds of typical speeds on the input disc. General simulation analysis will provide some basic theories and bases of design and improvement for developing high-speed and stable shedding devices.

Control system data preparation of computerize flat knitting machine

ZHANG Chi, ZHANG Cheng-Jun, WU Xiao-Guang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  124-129. 

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In order to realize the conversion from computer flat knitting machine design pattern to control data, a kind of control system data preparation method in development of computerize flat knitting machine is introduced by this paper. This method has five parts, including of PAT data, CNT data, SYS data, KSD data, FKD data. This paper illustrates the function of all the data documents and data definition, and give the FKD data conversion algorithm. Most existing pattern of design software flat knitting machine process files can be compatible by this method. FKD data conversion algorithm has small burden of data to control system. FKD data transmission is compact and can be quickly applied in all kinds of master-slave type of computer knitting machine control system. This design has applied to computerize flat knitting machine controller with stability of processing data and excellent performance.

Soft sensor model of shrinkage of rubber blanket preshrinking machine

XIE Yang, JIN Fu-Jiang, TANG Yi-Ping

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  130-133. 

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There are many complex factors influencing shrinking effect of rubber blanket preshrinking machine in preshrinking processes of dyeing and finishing. It is very difficult to realize online prediction of shrinkage and formulate preshrinking technology accurately and quantitatively. Based on the shrinking mechanism and analysis of deformation of the rubber blanket, the soft sensor model of relationship between shrinkage and extrusion pressure which is the biggest impact factor is built. The result of the application indicates that the relative errors of shrinkage calculated by the soft sensor model are all less than 8%, and the mean absolute percentage error is 5.101% . The model is available and efficient. It will have sure directive significance of online prediction of shrinkage and designing preshrinking technology accurately and quantitatively.

Comprehensive evaluation and comparative study of apparel brand value from consumers′and experts′perspectives

YU Jun-Ying, YANG Yi-Xiong, DU Qin-Ping

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  134-139. 

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Brand equity is one of the important indicators of brand strategy performance. China clothing market is a relatively fully open but also close to perfectly competitive market. Choosing representative brands of clothing industry as study objective and explore brand equity formation law of these brands can provide useful lessons to promote the healthy development and strategies for upgrading of China's apparel industry. This paper Choose apparel brands by method Delphi, finally select 153 apparel brands and make the evaluation objective representative of apparel industry, and use factor analysis and standard deviation method to construct the evaluation model of brand equity.

Assessing of carbon footprint of hemp product according to PAS2050

YANG Zi-Ping, ZHANG Jian-Chun, ZHANG Hua, ZHANG Xiao-Xia, GAO Zhi-Qiang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  140-144. 

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With global climate environment deteriorates，people have realized that the traditional gas-guzzling, high pollution and high emissions, low value-added model of economic development has not lasted. We must pass through the new technological revolution to cultivate new industry and obsolete backward productivity to make economic development to be low carbon or zero carbon mode and realize the economic, social and human’s harmonious development. However, In the development of low carbon economy, products and life, the world has not formed a unified standard, such as low-carbon standard of product definition how to measure, Product (service) consumption of carbon emissions and the dynamic process of the effects of climate change. The essay analyzes the world’s first evaluating product carbon footprint of standard- PAS2050 and describes how to measure the product carbon footprint.

Curve matching algorithm and its application in fabric automatic register detection

JING Jun-Feng, LI Guang-Yan, LI Peng-Fei

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  145-148. 

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With the register detection problems in the rotary screen printing process, the curve matching strategy was proposed to get the position vector of off-pattern-topping, on the basis of the proposed rotary screen printing machine automatic detection system based on machine vision. In order to ensure the capture positions of the target edge image and the standard edge image is the same, Fourier-Mellin curve matching was used to match them to eliminate the shooting error;then the curve matching method, based on the Fourier transform shift theorem,was used to match the well-tuned target edge image and the standard edge image to detect the register error. The matching strategy eliminated the error, and the computation is small.The experiments show that its detection accuracy and the computing speed can meet the requirements of the fabric register detection on line.

Dynamic garment simulation based on multi-resolution ellipsoid bounding box

GAO Jun, LI Zhong, LIN Jiao, LI Liang

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  149-154. 

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The collision detection and response between the garment and the human body model is an important factor when dealing with dynamic clothing simulation. In order to improve the efficiency and effect of the simulation, this paper presents a new method based on the ellipsoid bounding box in multi-resolution. After subdividing the human model by using octree, we first reorganize and optimize the voxels. Then we merge the sphere bounding boxes based on the multi-resolution ellipsoids for accelerating the collision detection, and form a series of model approximations. We also interactively design the garment stitching, which makes the cloth simulation more flexible. The experimental result shows that the simulation is more realistic and it is helpful to improve the efficiency of the cloth simulation.

Bra patternmaking and Its affecting factors

CHEN Xiao-Na, WANG Jian-Ping

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(8):  155-160. 

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Bra is a kind of close fitted apparel for women. The development of bra patternmaking is important for the improvement of function and comfort. Basic bra pattern, bra part pattern and factors to bra pattern were reviewed in this paper. The current situation and weakness of bra pattern design method was analyzed, as well as two factors to bra pattern design method. Then the trend of bra pattern design method was discussed. The research result is useful for the development of bra pattern design method.