Table of Content

15 September 2012, Volume 33 Issue 9

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Effects of electrospinning and melt spinning on surface structure of PET fibres

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  1-5. 

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Surface morphology and thermodynamic performances of solution and melt electrospinning fibers and industrial melt spinning fibers were characterized and analysed by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), atomic force microscope (AFM) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). The results indicated that surface morphology is different in products owing to different processing methods. Melt electrospinning fibers have smooth surface, while there are distinct concave-convex on the surface of industrial melt spinning fibers, and slight alveolate shape on that of solution electrospinning fibers. According to the analysis of DSC, different spinning methods did not have significant effects on the glass transition temperature，crystallization temperature and melting temperature of fibers. The crystallinity and crystal integrality of melt electrospinning fibers made in laboratory were lower than that of melt spinning fibers made in factory, and solution electrospinning fibers are mostly in amorphous structure.

Melt-spun bicomponent thermo-regulated polypropylene fibers

Na Han

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  6-9. 

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Bicomponent thermo-regulated fiber was fabricated by melt-spinning. n-Alkanes and polymeric phase change materials were used as core and polypropylene was used as shell. The surface morphologies, thermal behaviors and mechanical properties were measured by using scanning electron microscope (SEM), differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and tensile strength tester. The results show that the cross sections of the fibers are compact and the core shell boundary is obviously. The melting and crystal enthalpy is about 36~40J/g when the mass percent of phase change materials is 28 %. The strength and elongation at break of the fiber is 2.3cN/dtex and 29%, respectively, as the drawn ratio is up to 2.75. The mechanical properties can meet the needs of weaving and clothing.

Structure and properties of nano-copper thin films deposited on carbon fiber fabric by magietron sputtering

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  10-14. 

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Nano-copper was deposited by RF magnetron sputtering on carbon fiber fabrics(CFFs) at room temperature. The composition and crystalline state of Cu film were analysed by X-ray diffraction (XRD) .The surface morphology of carbon fiber fabrics under different powers was respectively characterized by the methods of SEM. And then, the sputtering power on the deposition rate, fabric weight gain rate, electrical properties and fastness were studied. The results showed as follows: with the sputtering power increasing, copper particles on carbon fiber fabrics increased , the deposition rate increased, as well as the fabric weight gain rate and the electric conductivity of carbon fiber fabrics. After five cycles of thermal cycling experiments, the film was peeled and the film sheet resistance under 180 w increased significantly, indicating the film fastness decreased, therefore, reasonable sputtering power should be 60-140 w .

Over melting point forming of PP-SLSM and its performance

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  15-19. 

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Studied the production method of over the melting point, tested the main property which influence the use performance and discussed various performance of polypropylene solid-liquid separation membrane (PP-SLSM) at different temperature and time. The result shows that: when hot-pressing temperature below 165℃, the short fiber of base fabric didn’t melt by hot pressing; When hot-pressing temperature higher than 170℃, the short fiber melted and became a membrane which had many apertures and influenced the final use performance of PP-SLSM; When hot-pressing temperature reached 180℃, the membrane with dense apertures was damaged, the performance of PP-SLSM was changed too.

Preparation and properties of composite multilayer sound absorption structures

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  20-25. 

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A series of multilayer acoustical structures without air layer of back were prepared by perforated plates and composites consisting of chlorinated polyethylene and seven-hole hollow polyester fibers. Sound absorption properties of multilayer acoustical structures were tested by transfer function method using SW230 impedance tubes, the effects of compound layers、compound modes、thickness of composites and porosity of perforation plate on acoustical absorption properties were analysed. The result showed that sound absorption properties of bilayer structures presented acoustical characteristics of porous materials when measuring face was perforation plate,while sound absorption properties of bilayer structures presented acoustical characteristics of film cavity resonance when measuring face was composite in bilayer structures,that acoustic frequency range of multilayer sound-absorbing structures was greatly broadened by the organic combination of sound-absorbing mechanis of porous material and resonance absorption mechanism when the number of perforation plate is up to two. As an acoustical absorption structure, it has potential applications in engineering field.

Effects of air-texturing process on texturing entropy change

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  26-29. 

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The phenomenon of entropy change was found during texturing, especially in course of air-jet texturing of the chemical filaments, further researches had proved that there were remarkable relationship between the texturing entropy change and the parameters of structure and property of the textured yarn. To find out the effects of parameters of texturing on the entropy change, a group of single factor experiments focus on representative air-jet texturing and differential shrinking parameters including filament and filaments size, the overfeeding rate in air-texturing and the differential shrinkage rate of the differential shrinkage filaments were designed. The testing results showed that, in term of a settled filament linear density, the entropy changing became bigger when the filaments linear density grew; on the contrary, if the filaments linear density was a constant, the entropy changing decline with the increasing of the filament linear density. The bigger overfeed could increase the entropy changing during the course of air texturing while the bigger differential shrinkage rate could bring a bigger entropy changing for the differential shrinkage filaments ATY.

Preparation and characterization of biodegradable paper-based cotton linter mulching film dipped by PVA

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  30-34. 

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Structure and properties of chitosan imine modification cotton fibers 

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  35-39. 

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Abstract: A chitosan imine functional modification of cotton fiber oxidized by sodium periodate was performed in this paper. The effects of different concentrations of sodium periodate on the aldehyde content, breaking strength and weight gain of cotton fiber after chitosan treatment were investigated. The results indicated that the chitosan molecule crosslinked with oxidized cotton fiber through the C＝N of Schiff base, and the crystallinity of oxidized cotton fiber after chitosan treatment slightly decreased by the Fourier Transform Infrared Spectra and the peaks separation and curves imitation of X-ray diffractograms. The breaking strength and elongation of chitosan modified cotton fiber decreased, whereas the initial modulus increased. Furthermore, a model experiment for the load and controlled release of aloe anthraquinone extract was studied using the chitosan modified cotton fiber as a drug carrier, and obtained a good result such that this novel modified cotton fiber suggested the wide applications for the sustained release drugs.

Constructing and optimization of fabric self-adaptive orthogonal wavelet based on genetic programming

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  40-46. 

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In order to realize the automatic woven fabric defect inspection, the paper firstly constructs the fabric adaptive orthogonal wavelets libraries, and then takes the wavelets libraries as the group population of Genetic Programming Algorithm. After selecting the better one from four different kinds of Fitness Functions, the wavelet devices matching fabric texture are successfully founded from the group population. In comparison with the four fitness functions, taking the fabric texture fluctuations as the fitness functions can get the best wavelet device. The experiments verified the effectiveness of detection on some related defects, and the position of defects is located by window segmentation method. All of these show that the genetic programming algorithm combined with the fitness function optimization can find the optimal wavelet devices matching fabric texture, and realize the automatic fabric defect inspection.

Testing and analysis of style of bamboo fiber fabrics

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  47-49. 

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The style, including softness, surface friction, tensile and shear, of the original bamboo fabric were tested with the KES- FB And those properties were compared with that of the bamboo pulp fabric, ramie fabric and cotton fabric, The results show：Bamboo fibers are suifable for women‘s light coat becamse they are smooth，stiff and thin .It Provides a basis for the development of bamboo products .

Analysis on style of multi-component blended fabrics based on clustering method

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  50-54. 

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PTT, PLA, Cooldry, triangular shaped polyester yarn, cotton and hemp were selected as the materials and 13 kinds of fabrics which belong to A, B, C, D and E five series were woven. These fabrics were blended with different proportions. The performance indicators of fabric tactile style were tested by using FAST instrument and the fabric samples were classified with the method of cluster analysis. The relation between the fabric style characteristics and linear density of yarn, fiber content and weave construction were discussed. The test results showed that flax fiber in a definite range can replace cotton fiber without the variance of fabric style; big difference in the weave construction can cause different fabric style, the impact on the fabric style is relatively small with similar weave construction; linear density of yarn and fiber content have a certain influence on the fabric style.

Color separation algorithm for mixed dyed textiles based on image segmentation

Yu-zheng LU

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  55-60. 

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An image segmentation method is provided for the colored fiber blends high resolution image, and the segmentation process is carried based on the color characteristics. The whole process is discussed in the HSV color space: the gray region and the color region are segmented based on its value in the V channel and H channel separately with the Fuzzy C-means clustering method (FCM). The test result proved that, this segmentation method based on the FCM is much efficient to separate the image into different parts with the same texture and color hue with the original image. The algorithm can be carried to the computer aided manufacture for the color separation, which will be more directly and efficient than the traditional analysis method based on the optical model.

Method for fabric moisture content measurement based on microwave technique

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  61-65. 

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This paper introduces microwave technology in measurement applications of textile moisture, the humidity measurement principle is analysis. This paper designs a contact free fabric moisture content measurement system base on microwave. Fabric moisture content is measured with PLC as the processor. Also with traditional weighing method the moisture content of fabric were measured. Errors are analyzed by the fitting line which appeared in the experiments after processing experiment data and fitting out of different fabric moisture content.The experiment result shows this system for cotton cloth, denim and fine cotton cloth moisture content in the effective measurement range 30 ~ 50% respectively, 30 ~ 55%, 35 ~ 70%.And for cotton cloth the smallest measurement error is under±1%.

Exploration of electret property of area bonded ES-fiber fabric

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  66-70. 

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In this article, ES-fiber through-air nonwovens of different fiber fineness and surface density were processed with corona charge. Then analysis the electret property by comparing the filtration efficiency before and after the charge. In addition, the authors analysis the rate of the surface-voltage decay by comparing with that of PP melt-blown nonwovens. Here's the conclusion: the ES-fiber through-air nonwovens of finer fibers and larger surface density exhibit better electret property, and the rate of decay is faster in 60s but slower in long-time comparing to the PP's.

Synthesis of monochlorotriazinyl-β-cyclodextrin and its application in cotton fabric

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  71-75. 

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β-cyclodextrin(β-CD) has a torus-like molecular structure with hydrophilic exine and hydrophobic cavity, as a result of this cavity, β-CD can form inclusion complexes with a wide variety of hydrophobic guest molecules, which provide a wide range of applications in development functional fabrics like aromatic, repellence, deodorizing, anti-bacterium etc. In this article, the monochlorotriazinyl-β-cyclodextrin(MCT-β-CD) was synthesized by cyanuric chloride, β-CD and NaOH, and then grafted onto cotton fabric. The results showed that the synthesis process as follows: the molar ratio of cyanuric chloride and β-CD was 3:1, reaction solution was 80mL, reaction time was 9 hours; the grafting process as follows: the concentration of MCT-β-CD was 120g/L, the concentration of Na2CO3 was 30g/L, baking temperature was 150℃，time was 5 min. FT-IR suggested that the cyanuric chloride had ideally reacted with β-CD; alkaline phenolphthalein experiment demonstrated that the β-CD had not only succeed grafted onto cotton fabric, but also had high washing fastness.

Effects of scouring temperature of cottonon efficiency of enzymatic catalysis

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  76-81. 

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To improve the removal of non-cellulose impurities in cotton bio-scouring, effect of temperature on the catalytic efficiency of enzymes was investigated. It was found that temperature had great effects on the enzyme catalytic efficiency with in a certain scope of treatment temperature in cotton bio-scouring. The temperature for the best enzyme catalytic efficiency is much higher than the optimum temperature for cotton bio-scouring. Based on the analysis of the effects of temperature on the cellulase adsorption onto the cotton, of the melting points of the cotton waxes, and of the effects of the waxes on the removal of cotton seed coats for cellulase, the mechanism of temperature affecting enzyme catalytic efficiency in cotton bio-scouring was proposed.

Synergistic effect of TBCC/MnTACN system in low temperature bleaching with hydrogen peroxide

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  82-87. 

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Aiming at the problems existing in traditional hydrogen peroxide bleaching such as high temperature and energy consumption,the combined TBCC/MnTACN bleaching system of cotton fabric was constructed, and the synergistic effect between them was researched by decolorization experiment of morin and low temperature hydrogen peroxide bleaching of cotton knits. The absorption characteristics of the morin in three oxidation systems(H2O2 / TBCC、 H2O2 / MnTACN and H2O2 / TBCC / MnTACN) were measured using ultraviolet-visible spectrophotometer. Compared with H2O2 / TBCC and H2O2 / MnTACN systems, the combined system had faster maximum reaction rate, higher discoloration ratio and reaction rate constant, therefore, there was a synergistic activation/catalysis effect between TBCC and MnTACN. Further more, the synergistic effect between them had been proved by low temperature hydrogen peroxide bleaching of cotton knits. The results show that the combined system improved the whiteness of bleached fabrics in the low dosage. The optimum proportions of TBCC/MnTACN in different dosage were determined.

Extraction of berberine dye and its dyeing behavior on nylon 6 fabric

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  88-93. 

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The water extraction technology was applied to extract berberine from Coptis chinensis Franch. The extracts were applied to dyeing of nylon 6. The basic performance of extracts and the effects of dyeing temperature, value of pH and sodium sulfate dosage on K/S value of dyeings were analyzed. The good building-up property, absorption performance and color fastness of berberine on nylon 6 were also investigated. It was found that the basic component of extracts was berberine. The K/S value of dyeings was decreased with the increase in dyeing temperature, but increased with the increase in dyeing pH. The dyeing rate was increased with the increase in dyeing temperature, Langmuir equation can better fitted the absorption of berberine on nylon 6. The color fastness of dyed fabrics were above 3 class after treatment with fixing agent.

Ultraviolet resistance and antibacterial finishing of cotton fabrics with attapulgite colloid nanoparticles

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  94-99. 

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To develop multifunctional fabrics with ultraviolet resistance and antibacterial properties, the fabrics were finished by attapulgite colloid nanoparticles. The dispersion, structure and properties of the fabric before and after finish were characterized by means of size’s distribution instrument, SEM, TG-DTA and fluorescence spectrum. The results indicated the particle size of the attapulgite was between 100nm to 150nm. The attapulgite particles could be finished to the fabrics uniformly, and the quantity of the particles on the fabric increased with the increase of the concentration of the finishing liquor. The structural and thermal stability of the fabric increased after finish. The fluorescence spectrum investigated that the attapulgite could absorb ultraviolet. The fabric had excellent ultraviolet resistance and antibacterial properties. The finishing had a low influence on the style and whiteness of the cotton fabric.

Research on aging and degraded status of unearthed silk fibers from Jinzhou Chu Tomb and Nanchang Ming Tomb

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  100-104. 

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There are big differences on silk fabrics both from the respect of microcosmic and macroscopy between two batches of silk products, one unearthed from the tomb with the age of Chu Dynasty in Jin Zhou and the other unearthed from Ming tomb with the age of Ming Dynasty which is almost two thousand years after Chu Dynasty in Nan Chang. Methods applied to analyze the status of ageing and degradation on these products includes morphology analysis, infrared spectrum analysis, X-ray diffraction analysis, thermo gravimetric analysis, and amino acid analysis. Analysis results indicate that: it is more serious on silk ageing and degradation of the product in Jin Zhou, mainly including of embitterment and severely destroyed surface, the redshift of amideⅠ absorption peak caused by partial destroys of hydrogen bond in molecule of silk protein peptide chain, increase of plain woven fabric, decrease of degree crystallize degree, decrease of the ability to resist heat because of ageing and degradation for long. Both have partly degradation of amino acid in amorphous area. The products in Nan Chang have hydrolysis of ageing with silk fabric, mainly occurred in amorphous area.

Application of paper folding and molding technique to women’s dress

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  105-109. 

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Origami modeling changes constructions and shape elements of traditional garments. It shows fine, elegant and lively special characteristics of design. Since origami modeling gives the rigid and complex impression , it is difficult to be used for clothing. However, we can use the origami modeling technique constituting technology to expand the manufacture way and design room in dress . The paper is based on formulating characteristic of origami modeling and puts forward the kinds of origami modeling constituting technology, for example, sector folding, curved surface folding, pucker surface folding, geometry 3-dimentional folding, repeated folding, imitation flower folding, simulate style folding and so on. The paper talkes about the application of the technology in Suit-Dress design. The conclusion will be a reference in design and making of origami modeling dress . Mastering the technique will help designer in making the best garment modeling and advance function beauty and visual beauty of suit-dress.

Molding development of Chinese dress and its cutting technology

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  110-115. 

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Abstract ：This article through to the jiangnan university of the collection of the folk ChuanXiGuan and Shanghai YiFeng folk handed down the Chinese dress research and analysis in modern history, from the modelling of the early evolution, modern Chinese dress's modelling of change and cutting technology improves as the breakthrough point, describe the "numerous" to "Jane" adornment process , discusses "the ping even sleeve" to "inclined shoulder meet sleeve", from "no dart " to "save" modelling structure. Points out the modern Chinese dress is "merging Chinese and western" the classic. It successfully completed from Chinese traditional "plane modelling" to western-style "stereo modelling" perfect transformation, at the same time, ended the "used to dress" time, created "the clothes to adapt to the people" in the new era.

  Tongxiang multi-color steuciling printing： history and artistic features

Yu SHENG

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  116-121. 

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Focus on Tongxiang multi-colour stenciling printing, Researched and analysed multi-colour stenciling printing craft features and its unique art feature. By substantive on-the-spot investigation, object analysis and summary analysis on literature, to trace the history, clean up the development status in each historical period and concludes the craft process and art features. Analyse the figure showing principle in craft, conclude the five steps as pattern hollowing, fabric refining, toning, printing and color fixing. On art, starts with art materials, colour and moral, probe into the inside Folk Features, research the craft features from the sculpt features and the structure.

Representations of exorcism on folk dresses

Ye SUN

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  122-125. 

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Representations of exorcism in folk dresses reflect the common survival psychology of exorcising for auspicious, which displays with all sorts of materialized forms in folk dresses, taking folk dresses as the intuitive carrier. In terms of the origin of clothing culture and the historical development, this article makes a deep research on exorcism in folk dresses, discussing its common features, analyzing its form representations and taboos, explaining cultural factors that it contains: consciousness of primitive life worship, symbolic thought, dual antagonistic view, simple dialectical thinking and the view of animism. All those are still influencing thinking and behavior of modern people.

Research and development of yarn length recorder for cone winding

Jun-Hong YAO

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  126-129. 

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In order to reduce the yarn waste in the next process, a yarn length measurer controlling single spindle in the cone winding machine was designed. Two Hall sensors were used in this machine. One was installed on the principal axis of slotted drum which tested the revolutions of slotted drum, the other was installed on the cone which tested the actual revolutions of cone. The linear velocity slip rate between the slotted drum and the cone was calculated by comparison according to the revolutions of slotted drum, the actual revolutions of cone, the diameter of slotted drum and the instant transmission radius of cone when the actual revolutions of cone was added up to a definite value. According to the linear velocity slip rate, the yarn length of cone was calculated and added up. The cutter would cut off the yarn when the yarn length of cone reached the inputted value beforehand. This device could be used in the design of new kind of machine, and in the rebuilding of old machine.

Yarn-guiding system based on servo control and crank-link mechanism

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  130-134. 

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For the shortcomings of the yarn-guiding system electronic controlled, a new yarn-guiding program was proposed in this paper based on the servo control technology and crank-link mechanism of machinery. A mathematical model of the motor motion is established by analyzing the principle of motion of crank-link mechanism, so as to control the servo motor makes variable motion and realize the yarn-guiding alternate motion which comply with process requirement finally Combining the requirements of anti-overlapping, hard-edge and flange prevention in process of yarn-guiding. Based on PLC, the system runs fast, adaptable,has a simple mechanical structure and lower cost, could real-time monitor the rotation angle of motor and change the motor speed step-by-step to ensure the guide bar move steadily. Now this system has been brought into use and proved to be effective in yarn-guiding.

Finite-element Simulation and Analysis of Double-Cylinder Computer Hosiery Machine′s Knitting Element Based on SolidWorks Modeling Technology

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  135-142. 

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According to the imperfect design level of domestic double-cylinder computer hosiery machine and lack of the theory research for the key mechanisms, it is mainly researched the dynamic analysis of the knitting element for double-cylinder computer hosiery machine. The SolidWorks software has wide functions which are 3D mechanism structural design, product modeling, and design optimization function. The SolidWorks was applied to set up the 3D model of knitting element. On this basis, the knitting element’s solid model was guided to ANSYS/LS-DYNA system which realized the computer’s movement simulation of the lead wire, the needle, and the cams. It also studied their displacement, velocity, acceleration, and force conditions when the contact-compact of the knitting elements happened. Then, the needle and the cam were optimized by design. Furthermore, the high-speed shooting and image data processing were applied to the experiment, and the research findings’ accuracy of the ANSYS/LS-DYNA was certified. The research findings show that the acceleration’s maximum value of the needle is 6.7×10^7 m/s^2, and the stability of the needle can be controlled when the double-cylinder computer hosiery machine is in high-speed motion.

Evaluation of feeding performance based on error analysis of motion trajectory

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  143-147. 

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Since assembly errors of parts can lead to deviation of motion trajectory of sewing machine with the result that the problems like feed poor and puckering appear, evaluation method of feeding performance based on error analysis of motion trajectory was proposed. The error feature indicators of alternative simulation models and ideal system were extracted by error analysis feature extraction method. Error feature index weights were computed by objective assignment method depending on design objective, and correlation degree was calculated by weighted grey correlation model, and a reasonable evaluation index system and integrative evaluation model was built. Finally, the proposed method was applied to feed mechanism of lockstitch sewing, the relational degree of each assembly errors model and ideal system was judged from the corresponding probability output, therefore the feeding performance was evaluated. The result shows the effectiveness and validity of the proposed approach.

The research and application of loom data transmission protocol based on Multicast technology

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  148-152. 

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In order to make up the shortcoming of the multi-looms data transmission and mass data transmission by point to point wireless transmission technology, a way of the wireless transmission by multicast technology was put forward. In this paper the technology ways of multicast transmission were introduced; the mainly communication protocol structure and protocol time planning were analyzed in detail; Mathematical model of transmission efficiency was built, the transmission efficiency of unicast and multicast were analyzed by simulation. Time of unicast and multicast data transmission were tested respectively in the test platform in the workshop. The scheme of multicast technology has been proven more efficient and more stability by the test analysis result.

Method of conflict resolution based on knowledge collaboration in garment collaborative design

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(9):  153-158. 

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Major cause of conflict in product collaborative design is the lack of an effective knowledge organizing, sharing, and communication, collaboration between the subjects of knowledge. To solve knowledge conflict in garment product collaborative design, the concept of knowledge conflict and knowledge collaboration is defined, and knowledge feature of garment design is analyzed. The collaborative knowledge organization model for garment collaborative design is built, and an integrated conflict resolution method based on knowledge reasoning and push is presented. Based on the above, the system of conflict resolution based on knowledge collaboration in garment collaborative design is presented, and an example to descript application is given.