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Table of Content

    15 October 2012, Volume 33 Issue 10
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    • Sweat odor deodorant properties of several fibers
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  7-13. 
      Abstract ( 1096 )   PDF (1660KB) ( 681 )   Save
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      Loading of porous TiO2 film on PET fiber and its photocatalytic capability
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  19-23. 
      Abstract ( 959 )   PDF (1369KB) ( 478 )   Save
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      The low temperature TiO2 sol with polystyrene (PS) microspheres as template for porous structure was coated on raw and alkali deweighting PET fibers by impregnation, and a series of photocatalytic TiO2/PET fibers were prepared. The TiO2 and fibers were characterized by XRD and SEM. The photocatalytic performance of TiO2/PET fibers was evaluated through degradation of methyl orange. The results indicated that nanometer anatase TiO2 with high photocatalytic activity was obtained after the sol aging. The TiO2 loading on PET fiber surface increased with the increasing proportion of TiO2 sol in impregnating solution. The alkali deweighting of PET fibers contributed to improving TiO2 loading and photocatalytic activity. With TiO2 loading rate increasing, the degradation rate of methyl orange increased from the beginning and then decreased slowly. The TiO2/PET fiber showed best photocatalytic activity with the loading rate of 4.2%. Porous TiO2 film due to PS as template can further enhance the specific surface area and the adsorption ability of photocatalytic fiber, so as to improve the photocatalytic activity.
      Effect of entropy change during texturing on hairiness of trxtured filament yarns
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  24-27. 
      Abstract ( 876 )   PDF (810KB) ( 448 )   Save
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      Qualitative and quantitative analysis of PET,PTT and PBT materials 
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  28-32. 
      Abstract ( 1010 )   PDF (962KB) ( 711 )   Save
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      Research on application of statistical modal in cotton-inspection-proficiency testing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  33-36. 
      Abstract ( 768 )   PDF (1120KB) ( 488 )   Save
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      In the past, we typically used Z score in the statistics analysis of the cotton-inspection-proficiency testing. But Z score has some limitations in the section of the reference number and analysis. Based on this problem, this paper will apply the grey clustering analysis which depends on the Trigonal Whitening Weight function to devide the cluster objects into better and general categories through taking the fourteen laboratories as the cluster objects and cotton’s upper half mean length of five cluster indicators. Through the theoretical and experimental validation in the statistical analysis of the testing, this method can be a statistical modal for the similar proficiency testing in the future.
      Space parametric model and simulation of plain woven fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  37-42. 
      Abstract ( 700 )   PDF (1379KB) ( 444 )   Save
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      On the basis of the Peirce model, using the arc-tangent line as the yarn buckling shape, selecting the circle as the yarn section, based on the principle of the coordinate transformation, a space mathematic model of the plain woven fabric is established. And, conducting the space surface parametric modeling by MATLAB language to realize three-dimension simulation under different diameters of the warp and weft yarns, different density of the warp and weft yarns, and different structure phases, in addition, simulation effect is improved by color interpolation, adding lighting and so on.
      New ways to design fabrics woven by water-jet loom creatively based on TRIZ theory
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  43-46. 
      Abstract ( 870 )   PDF (970KB) ( 473 )   Save
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      Since the poor fiber selectivity of water-jet weaving lead to the difficulty of increasing fabric variety, the new ways to design fabrics creatively by applying TRIZ theory was explored in this paper. The TRIZ principle in solving technical contradiction was introduced. The technical characteristic of water-jet weaving and the urgency of enhancing the added value of fabrics at present was expounded, thus concluding the technical contradiction in designing water-jet woven fabrics. The corresponding principle of innovation was found out by using the TRIZ contradiction table. Therefore the new ways of fabrics designing was proposed, being described as follows: According with the principle of non-homogeneous, the non-homogeneous structure and appearance fabrics can be designed and developed. Applying the concept of intelligence polyurethane shape memory fabrics and conductive fabrics can be designed and developed. Using the idea of lighter , thinner and softer, we can use fiber with lower linear density and more filaments, make full use of non-spandex elastic fibers in fabrics designing, and to develop fabrics which are made up of nylon-polyester composite filament applying the non-splitting and non-sanding processing method.
      Impact damage modeling of unidirectional composite
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  47-50. 
      Abstract ( 784 )   PDF (944KB) ( 547 )   Save
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      In order to summarize the damage behavior of the unidirectional composite subjected to high-velocity impact, which will benefit to the structural design of impact-resistance materials. The response and damage of unidirectional composite in the levels of yarn and resin at different impact velocity were calculated by finite element modeling and analysis. The impact resistance properties of unidirectional composite are illustrated by analyzing the deflection-time curves, stress-time curves and damage morphologies under different impact velocities. During the process of high-velocity impact, the amplitudes of stress and deflection decreased all the time due to the impact energy absorbed and dissipated by the unidirectional composite. In addition, the damage of resin and breakage of fiber tows were the main damage modes of unidirectional composite under impact loading. Furthermore, the damage on bottom surface of the composite was more serious than that on top surface owing to their different load-bearing modes.
      Preparation of polyphenylene sulfide spunbonded nonwovens material and its filterability
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  51-55. 
      Abstract ( 1072 )   PDF (1167KB) ( 629 )   Save
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      In order to prepare polyphenylene sulfide spunbonded nonwovens, the properties of polyphenylene sulfide (PPS) were first studied by DSC、TG and MFR. The results of the study showed that PPS had good thermal stability，the melting point was 280℃ ,and the melt flow rate (MFR) reached the maximum value 158.7 g/10min at 315℃. Based on these tests, the PPS spunbonded nonwovens were prepared with experimental spunbonded machine. The filter properties were analyzed. The results showed that the diameter of the PPS fibers was about 37.6μm, and the curve of aperture distribution was similar to the normal distribution one. The average pore size was 31.6μm. The value of the filter efficiency for the particles whose size is larger than 10 μm, could reach 98.1 %.
      Steam explosion and alkali boiling combined degumming of natural bamboo fibers
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  56-61. 
      Abstract ( 1330 )   PDF (1483KB) ( 639 )   Save
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      In order to improve the effect of natural bamboo fiber degumming, the process of steam explosion and alkali boiling united degumming of bamboo fibers was researched, and the effect of process conditions on the degumming effect of the fibers was analyzed. FTIR, SEM and strength tester were used to analyse the chemical composition, morphology and strength of the united degummed fibers. The results showed that the effect of fibers steam explosion and alkali boiling united treated degumming was better than that of fibers single alkali boiling or steam explosion treated, the diameter of fiber reduced obviously. Furthermore, the more intense steam explosion conditions, the higher degumming rate, the more scattered, the better softness of the fibers. The hemicelluloses and lignin were removed from the fibers well, and the cellulose content rose to 63.59%, the strength and elongation of the bamboo fibers at break were 21.98 cN/tex, 3.56%, respectively.
      Interaction of cationic red X-GRL with polymer emulsion
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  62-65. 
      Abstract ( 1006 )   PDF (919KB) ( 585 )   Save
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      The interaction of cationic dye with polymer emulsion was analyzed using conductivity and surface tension measurements. The results show that adding X-GRL concentration lower than its aggregation concentration to the polymer emulsion could increase the conductivity of mixed emulsion and, adding polymer emulsion to X-GRL solution higher than its aggregation concentration could also increase the conductivity of the mixed solution. The conductivity of the mixture of polymer emulsion with X-RL solution which the concentration was much higher than its aggregation concentration was lower than those of X-GRL solutions with same concentration, which indicates the adsorption of X-GRL on the surface of polymer latex reducing the conductivity of latex. And, the surface tension of the mixture was lower than those of the dye solution and the polymer emulsion due to the formation of a complex of dye ion and surfactant in the emulsion at the air / liquid interface.
      Formation mechanism of solvent-Induced dye supramolecular aggregates
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  66-71. 
      Abstract ( 1380 )   PDF (1940KB) ( 542 )   Save
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      In this study, the self-assembly behavior of Rhodamine B (RB) in binary solvents was investigated. The self-assembly behavior of RB was checked by visible absorption spectra and RB aggregates with diverse morphology could be formed by tuning various ethanol/THF volume ratios according to TEM observation. Formation mechanism of supramolecular RB aggregates was discussed in this paper and influence of morphology of the formed aggregates on fluorescent property was investigated using fluorescence spectrophotometer.
      Synthesis of double terminated acryloyl-polyether silicon oil and property of its modified polyacrylate latex
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  72-78. 
      Abstract ( 1364 )   PDF (1603KB) ( 592 )   Save
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      A double terminated acryloyloxy-polyether silicon oil was prepared by esterification reaction with acrylic acid and polyether modified silicon oil terminated by double hydroxyl as raw materials. The influences of reaction factors such as amount of catalyst，reaction temperature and time，dosage of solvent and inhibitor on esterification rate were investigated，the structure of product was characterized by FTIR and 1H-NMR, double terminated acryloyloxy-polyether silicon oil was applied in the preparation of silicon-modified polyacrylate latex, and the properties of silicon-modified polyacrylate latex and its pigment printing were measured. The results showed that the optimal esterification condition was that the amounts of catalyst and solvent were 5% and 70% of total reactant mass respectively, the dosage of inhibitor were 0.75% of the amounts of acrylic acid, reaction temperature was 110℃ and reaction time was 4h. The analysis of FTIR and 1H-NMR indicated that the structure of esterification product was acryloyloxy-polyether silicon oil. Hydrophoblicity of the modified polyacrylate latex film was enhanced obviously, its breaking tenacity was decreased slightly, its breaking extension was increased significantly and its work of break was increased some, the dry and wet rubbing fastness of pigment printing fabric reached 4 grades and above, and its handle became softer.
      Cloning of laccase gene form Coprinopsis cinerea and study on Its expression in Pichia pastoris
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  79-83. 
      Abstract ( 1537 )   PDF (1212KB) ( 743 )   Save
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      The laccase gene 1 had been cloned by RT-PCR from Coprinopsis cinerea okayama7#130, through analyzing of SignalP3.0 Server, a new primer had been designed that it didn’t have signal peptide sequence for laccase1(lac1) and construction of Pichia pastoris expression plasmid pPIC9K-lac1, then transformed into the Pichia pastoris GS115 and induction expression, studied properties of recombinant enzyme at last. The full length of laccase 1was 1593bp, which coded 530 amino acids and included 18 amino acids of Signal peptide sequence. SDS-PAGE show that obvious protein band was 65 kDa. The optimal fermentature was 45℃ and pH value was 4.3. The activity of restructed laccase remain unchanged basically after it staied in 45℃ for 3 hours, the stability of avticity was good in the scope from 4.0 to 10.0 of pH.The enzyme activity of secretion expression achieve to 1.108 U/mL.
      Preparation and performance of acetate amylopectin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  84-91. 
      Abstract ( 845 )   PDF (1637KB) ( 490 )   Save
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      Abstract: The preparation and performance of amylopetin acetate prepared by the dry method using corn starch as raw material and acetic anhydride as esterifying agent was researched. The condition for preparation was optimized by the orthogonal experiment taking light penetration, gelatinized temperature and degree of substitution as target. The characteristics of amylopectin acetate, such as the degree of substitution, IR chart spectra, X-ray diffraction spectroscopy, breaking strength and breaking elongation rate of sized yarn, light penetration, gelatinized temperature, viscosity, and viscosity thermal stability was determined and analyzed. The result showed that the X-ray diffraction spectroscopy of amylopectin acetate was similar with that of amylopectin and both of them belonged to no crystal structure. Compared with corn starch, amylopetin and starch acetate, amylopectin acetate possessed distinguishing features such as lower viscosity, lower gelatinized temperature, higher degree of substitution, higher transparency, higher viscosity thermal stability, better breaking strength and breaking elongation rate of sized yarn.
      Salt-free dyeing of silk with ME reactive dyestuffs
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  92-97. 
      Abstract ( 892 )   PDF (1283KB) ( 591 )   Save
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      Abstract Salt-free dyeing of silk with ME series reactive dyestuffs in a micro-suspension dyeing system(MSD) was investigated. The comparison of the micro-suspension dyeing with the traditional dyeing was made. The results indicate that the rubbing damage of fabric surface caused by the inorganic salts was alleviated and the dyes utilization was increased in the micro-suspension dyeing. The brightness of samples dyed in the micro-suspension process was superior to those obtained in the traditional. Each fastness of samples dyed in the micro-suspension process including fastness to rubbing and color fastness to washing stand as those obtained in the traditional.
      Properties of cotton fabric finishing by olive oil microcapsules
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  98-102. 
      Abstract ( 1159 )   PDF (1387KB) ( 601 )   Save
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      Abstract: In order to prolong the acting time of olive oil in the fabric, olive oil microcapsules were prepared using gelatin and Arabic gum as wall materials in this paper. Olive oil microcapsules prepared self-made were finished on cotton fabric. The effect of pre-drying temperature, curing temperature and time, solid content of finishing agent, the volume ratio between finishing agent and adhesive agent were investigated. Through testing the drug-loading rate of olive oil in cotton fabric, breathable and moisture permeability, the optimum parameters were as follow: pre-drying temperature was 70℃, curing temperature was 120℃ and time was 1min, solid content of finishing agent was 5%, the volume ratio between finishing agent and adhesive agent was 1:1. The oil content of cotton fabric was 2%~5%. Its slow-release property tested with UV spectrophotometer was also good. Breathable and moisture permeability and washing fastness were satisfied to normal needs of fabrics.
      Influence of nitrated alizarin on dyeing properties of polyester fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  103-106. 
      Abstract ( 1060 )   PDF (1033KB) ( 431 )   Save
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      The suitable nitration approach for biomass alizarin was selected based on different reaction conditions. And the structure of modified alizarin was characterized by FT-IR, HPLC-MS and 1H NMR. The nitrated alizarin was then used to dye superfine polyester fabrics. The levelness, color fastness of the dyed samples with traditional alizarin and 3-nitroalizarin were investigated respectively. The results show that the modified alizarin, i.e. 3-nitroalizarin, can be got by reacting with concentrated nitric acid in glacial acetic acid at 40 ℃ for 8 h. The average purity of products is 97%. Compared with the color fastnesses of dyed samples with traditional alizarin, the better grade of those of dyed samples can be obtained by dyeing with modified alizarin under auxiliary-free condition. The soaping fastnesses, wet rubbing fastnesses and levelness are also raised by half grade with modified alizarin. It indicated that the significant reduction in both dyeing cost and wastewater pollution can be achieved if using modified alizarin.
      Technological features of patchwork type tunic blouse in Chongwu
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  107-112. 
      Abstract ( 902 )   PDF (1233KB) ( 502 )   Save
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      The clothing in Chongwu is the most distinctive and representative units in the coastal areas of Hui’an eastern, and its structure and sewing contain the important content of local conditions and customs，as well as the folk culture in local.This article has reseached Chongwu clothing instancing Zhuizuo blouse with distinctive characteristics and strong representative though field research.The research shows that the Zhuizuo blouse has been cutted while sewed,and it contains the basic steps such as fabrics purchasing,cutting,sewing,ironing,and the main sewing methods are lock stitches, hand hemming, trim and bar tacks.then combined with the structure characteristics and sewing process characteristic of clothing, we can analysis that the Zhuizuo blouse has the creation concept of utility as well as its aesthetic features of advocating minimalist and natural instand of verbose and elaborate carve，in addition，it reflects the social culture and spirit symbolic significance through the seaming process and the manual embroidery.
      Surface temperature uniformity of thermal manikin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  113-116. 
      Abstract ( 925 )   PDF (1046KB) ( 634 )   Save
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      Thermal Manikin is equipped with heating wire as internal heat source to simulate the human body heat emissions and test thermal resistance of clothes, whose surface temperature uniformity is demanding. To find out the main factors of uniformity temperature and meet the requirement of uniformity temperature, this article gives strategies of laying heating wire and temperature measure method. Spacing intervals between heating wires and distribution law of surface temperature have been obtained through comparison experiments. Furthermore, how much the thickness of simulating skin and the side boundary condition influence on temperature uniformity are analyzed. Therefore, some resolutions are brought up to decline the influences mentioned above. Further researches on this project are based on this.
      Analysis and development of emotional factors for clothing brands
      Jin-rong Xiao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  117-121. 
      Abstract ( 936 )   PDF (1217KB) ( 650 )   Save
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      For further exploration of the characteristics and the emotional experience’s problems in fashion products, the article combine the emotional factors with brand clothing design, analyze the features and performance elements of emotional factors in fashion products on the basis of brand recognition. By understanding of the activities of public emotional awareness , emerge the generation and management model of clothing brand’s emotional factors, further discuss the implementations for the structure of the brand style. Taking the case of Levi 's cowboy brand, to elaborate the inheritance and innovation of emotional factors in brand clothing design, and to make a theory and practice cross-reference for continued design of the clothing brand.
      Design of electronic shogging system of warp knitting based on torque control mode
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  122-127. 
      Abstract ( 860 )   PDF (1679KB) ( 541 )   Save
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      In view of the defects which position control mode and speed control mode can’t meet the requirements of high accuracy and high dynamic response for electronic shogging system of high-speed warp knitting machine, a kind of electronic shogging system based on torque control mode has been developed. In order to achive the flexible impact and the accuracy of positioning , the motion curve of electronic cam guide bar and the PID control algorithm of motion control card have been designed.Through the analysis of theory and practice, a formula was derived, which can be used to choose the moter of high dynamic response. And test and verify the high accuracy and high dynamic response for electronic shogging system in torque mode from the vibration of guide bar and the feedback speed of the moter.
      Theoretical research on propulsion mode of magnetic suspension needles for jacquard knitting
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  128-133. 
      Abstract ( 973 )   PDF (1449KB) ( 490 )   Save
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      This paper has proposed a drive theory for high-speed magnetic suspended knitting needles based on the magnetic suspension theory by means of imposing electromagnetic force directly on the knitting needles. The feasibility of the principles for suspended-driven needle selection of circular knitting machine has been discussed. We propose a basic structure of magnetic suspension needle for method of suspended-driven needle, and obtain the thermal motion results of needle by analysis of magnetic circuit of needle devices and needle friction heat. Finally, the control model of the needle displacement detection has been studied, introducing the ceramics as insulating materials of displacement sensor in dynamic needle, and the means of sensor pole coating. The study provides the suspended driven theory for further study and the reliable theoretical foundation for achievement of needle driven in small space.
      Large torque and smooth transmission system design of raising machine
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  134-140. 
      Abstract ( 863 )   PDF (1685KB) ( 409 )   Save
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      To improve the transmission performance of raising machine is one of the important ways of enhancing the raising style and quality of fabric. According to the working principle and the required raising process parameters, the transmission system of raising machine is innovatively designed for large torque and smooth driving by using of the transmitting features of helical gears. The designed system is analyzed and calculated with kinematics and dynamics, and the finite element analysis for the helical gears contact and the static of needle roller is carried out based on the ANSYS 10.0. The result showed that the meshing of helical gears is a large torque and smooth transmitting process of gradually entering and withdrawing, and the contact stress and strain are small enough to meet the design requirements; In the course of transmission, the needle roller was forced equably with small stress and deformation, so as to guarantee the raising quality requirements of fabric. So, the large torque and smooth transmission system is developed with advantages of higher dynamic performance and stability, and it was considered as a certain significance to realize the style diversification of raising machine efficiently.
      Designing of networked monitoring system for overflow dyeing machines
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  141-146. 
      Abstract ( 867 )   PDF (1403KB) ( 684 )   Save
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      In dyeing production technology of classical dyeing machines, there existed problems such as the consistency of dyeing technology, the dyeing quality and the energy consumption per unit could be seriously affected by human factor. In order to resolve these problems, a kind of Networked Monitoring System for Overflow Dyeing Machines was put forward. In this system, by being networked with each others through RS485 bus, the dyeing controllers were utilized to be slave controllers. The master control computer with system monitoring software was configured. The centralize monitoring functions of sending down the parameters of dyeing production technology to dyeing machines, remote display of dynamical running status, saving historical data, and error analysis were realized. It is approved by the test case that the maximum dyeing errors can be controlled in 0.5%, the time used in dyeing can be reduced for 5-8 minutes, and the power consumption can be 15% lower according to the test case.
      Research on correlation of cotton price and textile production based on co-integration theory
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  147-152. 
      Abstract ( 631 )   PDF (1470KB) ( 414 )   Save
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      This paper analyzes correlation among yarn production, fiber production and cotton price from 2000 to 2011 in China. The paper first uses the co-integration analysis among these variables, then, try Granger causality test with cotton price volatility, yarn production volatility and fiber production volatility. Result shows the following conclusions, cotton price, yarn production and fiber production have long term co-integration, yarn production, fiber production have little impact on cotton price; volatility of the textile demand has little impact on cotton price volatility;fiber has little effect as cotton alternatives.
      Problems and countermeasures of environmentally conscious supply chain management of China’s textile and clothing industry
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2012, 33(10):  153-160. 
      Abstract ( 790 )   PDF (2199KB) ( 828 )   Save
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      Full analysis of management status and the problems of environmentally conscious supply chain management of China’s textile and clothing industry and also a series of countermeasures basing on the characteristics of green supply chain management are proposed in the paper. The issues that the core textile and clothing enterprises play a more important role in the process of the construction of the green supply chain as well as the issues like logistics, information system and cash flow chain which should be under concern are proposed in the paper. The key issues in the process of environmentally conscious supply chain management of China’s textile and clothing as well as the impact from the government, industry and the enterprises on the environmentally conscious supply chain management are fully explored in the paper. With the use of industry economics and supply chain management theory and the combination of industrial policy and practice of the status quo, the important views that only through adhering the government’s guidance, market supervision, industry standard in line with the national condition and also mutual participation from upstream and downstream enterprises driven by core brand enterprises, the security transformation of small and medium-sized textile and garment enterprises and also the prosperity of the green textile and apparel products market achieved in China context are proposed in the paper.
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