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Table of Content
15 September 2014, Volume 35 Issue 9
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Preparation and characterization of electrospun Sn/PAN nanofibers
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 1-0.
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Blending the nano-tin (Sn) and polyacrylonitrile (PAN) to prepare Sn/PAN nanofibers by electrospinning. And using a scanning electron microscope and X-ray diffraction method, characterize the average diameter of fiber, distribution of diameter, distribution of Sn in the fiber and the degree of crystallinity after Sn electrospinning. The results showed that the degree of crystallinity increased after PAN electrospinning; the fiber diameter decreases with the spinning voltage increases or the distance increases; when the electrostatic spinning voltage is 14kV, solidification distance is 14cm, the average diameter of fiber is small and the distribution is uniform; Sn reunions when added to the PAN electrospinning, degree of crystallinity decreased; with the PAN stretched in the electrostatic field, lattice of Sn distorted. After electrostatic spinning, the XRD diffraction peaks of Sn slightly offset than the standard peaks.
Oil absorption properties and oil-water separation effect of nano/micro-fiber membrane
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 7-0.
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661
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Oil and water contamination is one of the important factors that affect the environment clean, In this article, nano/micro-fiber membrane was studied and analysed on its oil absorption and oil-water separation properties for soybean oil, liquid paraffin, white oil three different type oil, and compared with knitting micro-fiber and non-woven cleaning cloth on the market, to evaluate its degreasing effect comprehensively. The results prove that, the oil absorption and oil-water separation properties of nano/micro-fiber membrane is much super than that of the two clothes on the market, and the maximum oil absorbency to three different oils of nano-fiber membrane is up to 15.1g/g, 14.9g/g and 15.0g/g, the oil remove rate from oil/water emulsion is near to 50%. The next is micro-fiber membrane, the knitting micro-fiber cloth is the worst.
Regulation of polyelectrolyte amount on the property of templates and microcapsules
Zhang Jian-Fei
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 13-0.
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536
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Layer-by-Layer (LbL) assembly technique to prepare hollow microcapsules has broad prospects in textile applications. Poly(styrene sulfonate) (PSS) doped (PSS) calcium carbonate (CaCO3) particles was employed as a template, poly(allylamine hydrochloride) (PAH) and PSS were alternately deposited on the template. The influence of PSS content on the template size and morphology and the loading efficiency of microcapsules were investigated. SEM and TEM were used to observe the morphology and hollow structure of microcapsules; thermal gravimetric analysis (TGA) and UV-vis spectrophotometer were used to characterize the nature of microcapsules. The results showed that the PSS-doped CaCO3 particles are all spherical and the higher concentration of PSS leads to smaller CaCO3 particles size, the PSS amount in CaCO3 particles is 2.73% ~ 5.12%, PSS trapped inside the microcapsules has no effect on its morphology and structure, vacuum drying is better than hot air drying, the resulting microcapsules have a deposition effect for RhB.
Research on the spinnability of Poly(lactic acid)/ Poly(3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxyvalerate) two-component biodegradable materials for spun-bonded nonwovens
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 19-0.
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547
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In order to obtain high quality of Poly(lactic acid)(PLA)/ Poly(3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxyvalerate)(PLA/PHBV) two-component biodegradable spun-bonded nonwovens, the relative molecular weight and distribution, melt flowing index, thermal properties, crystallization and rheological behavior of PLA/PHBV masterbatch were investigated, the thermal properties and crystallization of spun-bonded fiber were also discussed. The results showed that the weight-average molecular weight of PLA/PHBV was about 120000 and molecular weight distribution was 1.99;The initial decomposition temperature was 285 ℃,it was suitable for spun-bonded extrusion processing and the appropriate processing temperature was about 210 ℃. The apparent viscosity of PLA/PHBV melt was sensitive to the shear rate when under 1000 rad/s,but the level of sensitivity to temperature lowered when the shear rate increased. The spun-bonded processing conditions had significant effects on the thermal properties and crystallization of PLA/PHBV masterbatch,compared with masterbatch,the degree of crystallinity of spun-bonded fiber decreased obviously but the orientation in amorphous region increased.
Preparation of PP/PVDF compound hernia patches
Ying-Na YU
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 25-0.
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456
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A new kind of compound hernia patches made of PP and PVDF are prepared. The steps are as follows. First, PP surface is modified by plasma to increase the surface hydrophilia,then it is attached to electrospun PVDF microfiber by fluoroelastomer . As the results show: In helium atmosphere, the hydrophilic property of PP fabric surface is improved by plasma modification. After treated by plasma, oxygen content and hydrophilia of PP surface are increased while carbon content is decreased tested by XPS. The best parameters are 150W and 2mins. When PP and PVDF compound, the breaking strength is increased, but the elongation at break and thickness essentially is unchanged; The water flux of compound patches is 11.73mL/min , which means the patches are satisfied with normal transmission of body fluids; From the perspective of dimensional stability to say, compound hernia patches are not shrunk in the water with the temperature lower than 50℃, so it is safe for human.
The structural design and sensing performance of CCFs conductive knitting fabric
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 31-0.
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430
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The development of wearable flexible fabric sensors is an important part of smart clothes, and it usually was made by different combination of fabric constructions with different materials at present. This article chose the coated carbon fibers (CCFs) which has high performance of conductive and soft to knit an embryonic of fabric sensor. The Single Jersey and Rib 1+1 was chosen as the knitting constructions. Though the repeated tensile test of conductive knitting fabric, we found the relationship of resistance and elongation, and analyzed its conductivity and sensitivity. Research shows that: The resistance of conductive knitting fabric decreased with the increased elongation under tension, and the fitting curve approximates left curve of parabola which has an upward opening. The highest value of GF is 1.52. The sensitivity of Single Jersey conductive fabric is higher than Rib 1+1 one, and the fabric with by none twist yarns has higher sensitivity than the one with twists yarns. The stability and stress relaxation of Rib 1+1 construct fabric are better than Single Jersey one.
Study of Flat-knitting Fabric Pattern Design and Technique Based on Jacquard Technology
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 36-0.
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625
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To futher improve the ability in developing complex pattern and useing all kinds of technology , this paper discussed the technology in sweater , focus on the technology of Jacquard and Intarsia , a few actual examples were given through M1 plus systerm from STOLL , anlysis weaving process and technical details. Key points of Jacquard pattern design were investigated in terms of useing part , structure , yarn , technology. The study is beneficial for designer to improving design skills of Jacquard fabric and provides reference to Jacquard design innovation.
Research on the Compatibility of Polyurethane Coated Fabrics with Adhesive Interlining
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 41-0.
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663
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Polyurethane(PU) coated fabric is a kind of functional fabric which has waterproof and moisture permeability, it is widely used to produce the outdoor sports clothing. Using the adhesive interlining, can increase fabrics’ bending rigidity, and thus improve fabrics’ stiffness and formability. Because the PU coating fabric itself has special function of waterproof and moisture permeability, so improper using of adhesive can affect the original function. Eight PU coated fabrics and six adhesive interlinings were selected in this article for fusing, and then tested the basic compatibility indicators of compound fabric, including peeling strength, heating shrinkage, washing shrinkage, washing appearance rating,as well as the changes in water vapor permeability and water repellency, thus to study the compatibility of PU coated fabric and adhesive interlining. It was found that,the kinds of adhesive is the main factor affecting the peeling strength. The thickness and gram weight of adhesive interlining can influence the shrinkage of compound fabrics. The thickness,gram weight and the amount of adhesive influence the thickness and porosity of compound fabrics,thus decrease the water vapor permeability. Adhesive interlining does not much effect the washing appearance rating and water repellency of compound fabrics.
Moisture and Diffusion Mechanism of Jacquard Spun Laced Nonwovens
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 47-0.
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437
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In order to study the suitability of the jacquard spun laced nonwovens for the medical dressing, the moisture and diffusion mechanism of the jacquard and plain spun laced nonwovens were tested and analyzed. Following conclusions can be found according to the test results: Because of the granular pattern on the surface of the jacquard spun laced nonwovens, the bulk and the fullness are improved and the moisture and diffusion mechanism are both better than the plain spun laced nonwovens’. With the increasing of the viscose rayon content, the diffusion area percentage of the artificial blood on the sample will be bigger. Meanwhile the jacquard spun laced nonwovens is one kind of ideal select for the medical dressing when the fiber ratio is reasonable.
Study on the impact property of silicone rubber filled warp knitted spacer fabric
zhen-qian lu
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 51-0.
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444
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Study on the impact property of the silicone rubber filled warp knitted spacer fabric. The warp knitted spacer fabric has the 3D spacer structure; the outer layer structure is the hexagonal meshes, which have large spacer. The A and B silicone rubber are mixed together, and then fill to the spacer fabric to make the composite with different filled rate. The Instron 9250 Drop Tower Impact Testers was used to test the impact properties. The result indicated that the stiffness and load bearing of silicone rubber filled fabric was increased, the displacement was decreased, and the peak force was also decreased. Additionally, the 50% filled fabric has the better cushion property and air permeability than the 100% filled fabric.
Prediction of Elastic Property on 3D Tubular Woven Carbon Fiber Composite
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 56-0.
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In order to provide reference for engineering application of the woven composite, a new unit cell division method and a mechanical model were put forward to predict the engineering elastic constants. The model adopted raceway shape as the cross-section of yarns, and prediction methods of volume fractions and elastic modulus were established based on the micro structure and geometric parameters of it. Then the finite element method was used to analysis the mechanical behavior under the circumstances of axial-tensile load, and the stress state was revealed. The results shows that the predicted values using finite element method agree well with the theoretical calculation values, thus the model and analysis method of elastic constants is verified.
Study on the mechanical properties of the honeycomb cotton fabric strengthen polyurethane composites
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 62-0.
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501
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Honeycomb weave fabric strengthen polyurethane composites material has excellent properties with lightweight and high strength, which is widely used in high-tech fields such as aerospace, aviation, construction, information and other industries, as its unique structure and properties of the honeycomb weave. To better rationally apply honeycomb type composites material, different honeycomb weave fabrics were developed with the same materials and the same density of warp and weft. The polyurethane used as basic materials made honeycomb weave cotton fabric/ polyurethane composite material, and the performances of the tensile strength and elongation, peel strength, bursting strength were tested for the different honeycomb weave composites. Analyzed mechanical properties of the honeycomb type composites. The results show that different compositions of honeycomb have great influence on the properties effect. The breaking strength, peel strength, and bursting strength of composite material is first increased and then decreased with the decrease of honeycomb size. The breaking elongation gradually reduced. When the tissue circulation K is 5 or 6, the composite material displays favorable Mechanical properties.
Damage Analysis of Wool Fibers from Textiles of Small River Cemetery
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 67-0.
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Damage analysis of wool fibers from Small River Cemetery, based on morphology observation of wool fibers including cross-sectional and longitudinal appearance using OM and SEM, can provide scientific bases for conservation, including consolidation and cleaning. Morphology observation suggests that most of the textiles from Small River Cemetery are wool fibers, and the damage degree has significant difference, especially between textiles unearthed from the First and the Fifth Layer due to the buried date and environment. The contaminants sampled from polluted textiles were analyzed by SEM-EDS showing that chloride is the major constituent and found widely in the damaged items. So presumably Chloride is the principal contributor to the damage process of wool fiber.
Preparation and Printing Behavior of Carbon Black/Latex Nanocomposite Particles by Miniemulsion Polymerization
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 73-0.
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Nanocomposite particles of polymethyl methacrylate and carbon black were prepared via miniemulsion polymerization with polymer dispersant 1 - allyloxy-3 - (4 - nonylphenol) -2 - propanol, polyoxyethylene (10) ether sulfate (DNS-86). The influence of binder concentration,fixing temperature and time on rubbing fastness of cotton fabric printed by CB/Latex nanocomposite was investigated. FT-IR, TEM and TGA results confirmed that CB/Latex nanocomposite was prepared successfully. The optimal printing conditions were that the concentration of binder was 15wt%, reacted 150s under the temperature of 180℃. The K/S values and rubbing fastness of printed fabric were better than using ultra-fine carbon black under the same condition.
The proliferation inhibiting effect of two kinds of Betaine amphoteric surfactants on cells
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 79-0.
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In order to study the relationship between the structure and cytotoxicity of the amphoteric surfactants ,MTT assay is adopted to study of proliferation inhibiting effect of betaine amphoteric surfactants, including: four alkyl dimethyl propyl sulphobetaines and three alkyl dimethyl hydroxypropyl sulphobetaines on HeLa cells , CHO cells and CCC-ESF-1 cells . The results indicated that the proliferation inhibiting effect of the chemicals on the cells above gradually become larger with their concentration increased;Proliferation inhibiting effect of all the compounds increased with the growing in number of carbons. Cytotoxicity of alkyl dimethyl propyl sulphobetaine is lower than alkyl dimethyl hydroxypropyl sulphobetaine.
Study on the Conductivity of Highly Concentration of Reactive Dye Solution
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 85-0.
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It was investigated based on conductivities of reactive dyes solution in different conditions,including concentration of the reactive dyes, medium temperature and additives. Results showed that the conductivity of reactive dye solution was directly proportional to the dye concentration and medium temperature. A certain critical range was existed during the change of conductivity which the concentration dye of solution was 30 - 40 mmol/L and the temperature was about 50oC. The change rate of conductivity was different in or out of the range that mainly due to the aggregation of dyes leading to the inhibition of ionization in the condition of high concentration. It was probably raising the temperature was conducive to the disaggregation. The conductvities would decreasced when adding additives such as sodium sulfate todye solution becauce of common ion effect lead to the aggregation of dyes exacerbated. Howerver the conductivity of dye solution was increased when the concentration of sodium sulfate was less than 3 g/L. auxiliaries such as anionic surfactant had significant effect on improving the stability of dye solution at 50 oC.
Dyeing kinetics of collagen modified PAN fiber
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 90-0.
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The morphology structure of collagen modified PAN fiber was analyzed by scanning electron microscope. Dyeing;thermodynamics of collagen modified PAN fiber is carried out with Cationic Red X-GRL, including the adsorption isotherm of the fibers,dyeing affinity,heat and entropy, and the data were compared with PAN fiber.The results showed that the adsorption isotherm for Cationic Red X-GRL on collagen modified PAN fiber is a Langmuir-type which is similar to that of PAN fiber.They had much lower dye affinity,dyeing heat and dyeing entropy than PAN fibers when dyed with Cationic Red X-GRL at the same temperature,thus providing some reference for the process design of collagen modified PAN fiber.
Influence of the hydrolysis of reactive dye on dyeing property of cotton fabric
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 95-0.
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529
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The cotton fabrics were dyed with hydrolyzed and un-hydrolyzed active bright red X-3B. The dyeing property of modified and unmodified cotton fabric were investigated by testing the absorption spectroscopy of hydrolyzed and un-hydrolyzed active dye solution and the color indexes (L﹡, a﹡, b﹡, c﹡values and K/S value) of the dyed fabrics. It was found that the differences of the UV-Vis absorption spectroscopy of dye solution between hydrolyzation and un-hydrolyzation were very large and the colour of dye solution was light when the active dye was hydrolyzed. The uptake and fixation of the dye, and the colour and K/S valu of the dyed fabric could be influenced by the the hydrolyzation of dye. The dyeing property of cotton fabric could be improved when the fabrics were modified with reactive and non-reactive cationic modifiers. The uptake and fixation of the active dye and hydrolyzed active dye on the cotton fabric which was treated with ractive modifier were improved, especially the fixation.
Determination of Seven Neonicotinoid Pesticides Residues in Cotton samples by Using High Performance Liquid Chromatography Tandem Mass Spectrometry
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 100-0.
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375
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A method for the determination of nitenpyram, dinotefuran, thiamethoxam, clothiandin, imidacloprid, acetamiprid and thiacloprid in cotton samples has been introducted. The isotope internal standard (imidcacloprid-D4) was added into the sample solutions. The sample was extracted with acetonitrile. The ionisation mode used was positive mode with multiple reaction monitoring. The one precursor/two product ion transitions for each neonicotinoids were used. The results show that the working curves were linear in the range of 0~12.5 ug/L. The recoveries were between 75.9-98.4% and the relative standard deviations were less 15.8% at the spiked levels of 10, 20 and 40 ug/kg. The limits of quantitation were 10 ug/kg. The method is simple, rapid, and accurate, and its performance can meet the requirements of the domestic and international legislation. The method adapts to confirm residues of neonicotinoid pesticides in cotton samples.
Study on the innovation design of Chinese tunic suit as traditional wedding dress
yuqin ZHAO Huie Liang
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 108-0.
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In view of the shortcomings of traditional Chinese tunic suit such as conservative style, single function and unsuitable for the wedding occasion, this paper studied on the innovative design of structural plate of traditional Chinese tunic suit. Based on the features of the traditional Chinese tunic suit, novel Chinese tunic suit for wedding dress with detachable collar, placket and cuffs was designed. Furthermore, some happy and auspicious elements were also added in the design of new wedding tunic suit. Much more attention was paid on the new wedding tunic suit’s features, parameters of structural plate, sewing method of detachable collars, cuffs and placket. Embroidery was used to decorate the collar, cuffs and placket. The novel wedding Chinese tunic suit had fashion style and various functions, and was comfortable to wear, which made it more suitable to wear as the traditional wedding dress. Thus, this paper provided new ideas to design Chinese tunic suit as traditional wedding dress.
Female Body Shape Classification Based on the optimal segmentation method for orderly samples
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 114-0.
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592
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Current China standard sizing systems for female garments shows a lack of definite age division, regardless of the body variation of different ages. In order to improve the coverage of standard sizing systems, the large number of body data of 788 female subjects aging 18-51 was analyzed and six characteristic factors were extracted by factors analysis. Based on the contribution of each measurement index and correlation of each other, vital characteristic index was confirmed. And female body type was scientifically classified into three kinds, which were young female (18-27 years old), mature female (28-44 years old), middle and old-aged female (45-51years old) by the optimal segmentation method for orderly samples. The body type variation and subclassification of each kind was analyzed. Finally, the characteristic index of intermediate body type for all ages was obtained. It offered an excellent reference for modifying garment standard sizing system and pattern making.
Establishment of fit facket basic type for young women with big breasts
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 120.
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378
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Visual Illusion On Application Study Of Fashion Modeling Design
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 127-0.
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744
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Based on analysis the relationship of visual illusion principles with physical aesthetic feeling, fashion Modeling and structural,this article through specific design cases, apply different visual illusion designs on the women's shoulders ,chest and waist decorative aesthetics for visual correction, Through case analysis method analogy, summed up in a different costume local modeling design approach for witch visual illusion, there are applied length visual illusion in order to compress the shoulder and waist , applied area visual illusion in order to compress the collar or expands the chest and hip, applied distortion visual illusion in order to strengthen the fit women's clothing in "S" shape modeling characteristics. Reasonable apply the visual illusion in designing the fashion modeling, that can improve aesthetics in clothing and dressing effect, and can largely compensate for the lack of structural design.
Research on the technology and art of Double-sided disparate embroidery of Xiang embroidery
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 132-0.
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526
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Double-sided disparate embroidery is a token of the peak of the Xiang embroidery’s development, but there is little research on its technology and art features. This paper analyzed the double-sided disparate embroidery from multi-aspects such as themes selection, painting composition, color, embroidery technology, plot and story, and mood creation, and researched the combination modes of the superb skills and the fabulous art of the double-sided disparate embroidery. At last we pointed out that in order to inheriting and developing Xiang embroidery in modern society, it is neccesary to keep up Xiang embroidery’s unique art features and embroidery technology.
Numerical simulation on condensing effect of air suction slots structure in complete condensing spinning system based on Fluent
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 137-0.
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To discuss the influence of air Suction Slots on the fiber condensing effect , the numerical simulations of the flow distribution in complete condensing spinning system is given by using Fluent software. Corresponding simulation results of airflow distributions in condensing area with three different air Suction Slots are obtained. The results showed that the shape of the suction slot have a great impact on the airflow distribution in condensing zone. The long and short oblique grooves have better condensing effect in the entire condensing area, but they may have negative effect on spun yarn evenness; the Z-axis velocity distribution of long oblique groove can weaken the agglomeration effect. The straight groove may spread the sliver again in the median space. Finally, the theatrical results obtained are illustrated by experiments.
The calculation of dynamic load and simulation for two-side four-bar beating-up mechanism
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 144-0.
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For analysising mechanical property of four-bar beating-up mechanism more accuracy, resistance of beating-up on reed was changed into an equivalent torque on rocking shaft, and the varying law of the equivalent torque was simulated by smooth step function, because of those, an effective method used to calculate resistance of beating-up was put forward. Based on dynamics simulation and analysis for the mechanism, dynamic load on loom’s frame was calculated. Boundary conditions was defined through the function of sports load input on Motion module, the dynamic load was transferred to moving link directly, thus the influence for calculating of finite element model which caused by boundary error was reduced effectively. Based on above, the results of statics analysis for crankshaft, connecting rod and rocker were acquired, and a reliable basis was offered to know the mechanics characteristic of the four-bar beating-up mechanism.
Development of an on-line detection device of dyebath absorbance based on dual wavelength spectrophotometric
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 149-0.
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Considering the dye solution of turbidity and multicomponent,the influence of external factors such as background interference,we develop a set of dye solution absorbance detection device which is based on dual wavelength spectrophotometric and combines with ARM7 kernel processor.Without reference solution,the device solve the problem that the single wavelength couldn’t measure the multicomponent or interference dyeing liquid absorbance accurately. Experiments of three kinds of dye solutions were done respectively on the device, and the spectrum intensities of two wavelengths were measured. The absorbance curves of the dye solutions were drawn online ,where the differences between the selected two highest absorbance values were calculated. In this manner, the influence of background interference was reduced to some extent..Through experiments,we find that the device to determine the dyeing absorbance error is small and high accuracy, so it can be a mean of research for the future on-line dyeing liquid concentration measurement. *
Application of microencapsulated phase-change materials in intelligent heat-storage and thermo-regulated textile: a review
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 155-0.
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Smart textiles with heat-storage and thermo-regulated functions can be obtained by cooperating with microencapsulated phase-change materials (MEPCM). These researches have been focused on the study of technologies including of dispersing MEPCM in spinning solution or finishing fibres and/or fabrics with them, like padding or coating. The current paper discusses the application status of MEPCM in intelligent heat-responsible textile systematically, including the microencapsulation and incorporating MEPCM with textiles. The issues and corresponding solutions of the fabrication and application are pointed out, providing guidance for development and application of intelligent textile products.
Process of study on formability of the three-dimensional woven fabrics using for composites
JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2014, 35(9): 165-0.
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The forming mechanisms of woven fabrics that near net shape forming directly on the machine or compositing in a mold are discussed, and the mechanical changes of woven fabrics are analyzed in the process of forming three-dimensional surface. The four classic methods which used to evaluate the formability of woven fabrics are put forward. The scope and principles of four evaluation methods, along with the current advantages are investigated. It is expected that this paper is beneficial to the evaluation of woven formability.