Table of Content

15 December 2015, Volume 36 Issue 12

Previous Issue    Next Issue

Preparation and biological properties of tussah fibroin / polylactic acid nanofiber yarns

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  1-6. 

Abstract ( 226 )   PDF (1571KB) ( 304 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

Tussah fibroin (TSF)/poly lactic acid (PLA) composite nanofiber yarns with different ratio of TSF to PLA were prepared to fabricate tissue scaffold with great mechanical, good maneuverability and biological property by conjugate electro-spinning device. The scanning electronic microscope (SEM) and infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and cell cultured in vitro were used to character the morphology, second structure and biological property of the yarns separately. The result indicates that the yarn with the ratio of TSF to PLA of 1:9 gain smaller diameter, uniform evenness, as well as less hairiness and better mechanical. After cultured in vitro for different time, the yarn with the ratio of TSF to PLA of 1:9 as tissue scaffold keep healthy and more cell count to make the PLTF yarn appropriate scaffold.

Extraction of pigment from naturally brown cotton using ethanol/water solutions

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  7-10. 

Abstract ( 444 )   PDF (1028KB) ( 219 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to study effective extracting conditions, pigment constituents extracted from naturally brown cotton via ethanol/water solution system were investigated. The ratio of ethanol to water solution had significant influence on the pigment constituents extracted from naturally brown cotton. It is showed that the components with a retention time between 0-5min could be easily separated, while in the retention time from 7-17min a class of pigments could not be separated with satisfaction. The pigments in naturally brow cotton are strongly hydrophilic substances and extracting efficiency of the pigments was very low if using more than 90% ethanol to water solution, revealing not suitable for pigment extraction. While 0% ethanol solution was suitable for extraction of component in retention time of 1.4min, 30% ethanol solution was suitable for extraction of components in retention times of 1.7min, 2.2min and 9.6min, and 50% ethanol solution was suitable for extraction of component in retention time of 14.6min.

Synthesis of meta-aramid terpolymer and its fiber property

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  11-15. 

Abstract ( 616 )   PDF (1382KB) ( 329 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

The 3,4’-diaminodiphenyl is added to prepare meta-aramid Terpolymer, which rheological behaviors, thermal properties, fiber-forming properties and mechanical properties was studied. The result showed that meta-aramid Terpolymer belongs Non-Newtonian Fluid and 3,4’-diaminodiphenyl ether will slow the polymerization reaction rate；the decomposition temperature of the copolymer is 365.8℃and without melting point; the Fiber forming ability will reduced as 3, 4 '- diamino diphenyl ether increased; the breaking strength and young’s modulus of the fiber appeared a downward tendency as well as the elongation rose while the 3,4’-diaminodiphenyl content increased，while fiber heat-resisting performance improved best when the joined percentage of about 20%.

Constituents of monosaccharides in hydrolysed ramie detected by high performance liquid chromatography with pre-column derivatization

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  16-19. 

Abstract ( 328 )   PDF (878KB) ( 443 )   Save

References | Related Articles | Metrics

To improve the exploitation and application of ramie fiber, a set of method for the composition analysis of ramie single sugars was established. The high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) coupling with pre-column derivatization by 1-phenyl-3-methyl-5-pyrazolone (PMP) was used to analyze the monosaccharides in ramie. The samples were hydrolyzed by trifluoroacetic acid, then analyzed by HPLC with C18 column and ultraviolet detector. All monosaccharides possessed good linear relationship with the precision below 2.02% and recoveries between 96.53% and 102.76%. The results showed that the hydrolysis rate of ramie was 90%, the main monosaccharides were mannose, rhamnose, galacturonic acid, glucose, galactose, xylose and few unknown monosaccharides. The glucose was the main constituent, with the proportion of 83.86%～86.54% of the known monosaccharides. The HPLC method coupling with pre-column derivatization by PMP can meet the detection requirements of instrument, and is suitable for the analysis of the hydrolysed monosaccharides in ramie.

Uncertainty evaluation for testing results of fat and oil content of downs

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  20-24. 

Abstract ( 641 )   PDF (1156KB) ( 179 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

To affirm the reliability of testing result, the direct evaluation method was used to evaluate the uncertainty of fat and oil content of feather and down in this paper. The repeatability of sample measurement, sample weighing, fat and oil weighing were proved to be the main sources of uncertainty of fat and oil content by analysing the principle of measurement of fat and oil content. All components were evaluated respectively. The combined standard uncertainty and the expanded uncertainty were calculated by combining all the components of uncertainty. The analysis result shows that the uncertainty from weighing flasks is the prime factor while weighing flasks by the balance of 1 mg resolution which causes the higher uncertainty, and that the uncertainty from the repeatability of sample measurement and fat and oil weighing are the most important factors for the measurement uncertainty of fat and oil content when weighing the flasks by the balance of 0.1 mg resolution.

Influence of metal yarns arrangement mode on shielding effectiveness

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  25-31. 

Abstract ( 506 )   PDF (1552KB) ( 399 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to research the general influence factors of the shielding effectiveness of the fabrics, the model samples of metal yarns with different arrangement mode were prepared. Using shielded chamber, the factors of shielding effectiveness(SE) and reflection coefficients were systematically analyzed within 1~18GHz. It shows that the direction of samples will affect greatly the SE when tested with shielded chamber because of the directionality of EM field. The arrangement distance of metallic yarns is an important factor for SE. SE will decrease with the increase of the arrangement distance. With the sample arrangement distance, the SE of stainless steel blended yarn is similar with that of silver-plated fiber and bare copper wire, but better than that of stainless steel core spun yarn, pure stainless steel filaments and doubling twist yarn samples. The SEs of samples with parallel and grid arrangement are the same when tested with shielded chamber. The laws above are suitable to the reflection coefficience.

Influence of oleine oil on yak hair fiber and yarn quality

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  32-36. 

Abstract ( 243 )   PDF (1362KB) ( 171 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

As the lengths of yak fibers are widely dispersed and cohesive forces among yak fibers are small, it will be hard for yarn spinning. In order to solve the problem, wool lubricant was used to improve the spinnability of yak fiber. For this purpose, yak fibers treated by oleine oil were compared with yak fibers which have not been treated. By choosing the fibers with the same linear density, the surface morphological structures, tensile performances, surface friction performances, moisture regains and yarn performances have been tested. The results show that yak hairs treated by oleine oil have clear scales, uniform transmission, similar scale angles when compared with yak hairs without oleine oil. And the strength, breaking tenacity, breaking elongation and repute work of yak hair with oleine oil are better. The yak hairs with oleine oil have smaller dynamic and static friction factor and smaller differential friction effect. At the same time, it can conclude that the oleine oil can improve the performances of the yak yarn, especially its evenness, and less thick, thin and neps.

Performance of cool and comfortable multi-function blended fabrics

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  37-41. 

Abstract ( 721 )   PDF (1190KB) ( 238 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

To develop a cool type of multifunctional summer fabric, three series of fabrics about twelve samples were woven. Which blended honeycomb jade polyester fiber, honeycomb anti ultraviolet polyester fiber with bamboo or Tencel as warp and weft yarns.?Based on?the test parameters of contact apathetic, heat transfer, absorption and quick-drying to evaluation the fabric’s cool and comfortable performance. Principal component analysis in the software SPSS was used to evaluate the comprehensive performance of fabrics. The result shows that: considering the performance of anti ultraviolet, coolness, absorption and quick-drying, fabric weaving frequency should be better in the range of 0.2-0.4. With the same structure and warp and weft density, fabric contact apathetic increases with the increasing of honeycomb jade fiber. Compared Tencel and bamboo fiber with the same content, better choose Tencel to improve the fabric coolness. The fabric with honeycomb anti ultraviolet polyester fiber / bamboo fiber / honeycomb jade fiber (30/40/30)as material has better comprehensive properties.

Design of surface and inner layer exchangeable fabric by using color effect

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  42-46. 

Abstract ( 906 )   PDF (1197KB) ( 348 )   Save

References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to enrich the appearance effect of surface and inner layer exchangeable fabric, with the straightforward thinking methods of color effect using for surface and inner layer exchangeable fabric , surface layer and surface-inner layer color effect were designed innovatively. Firstly pattern was designed, then appropriate basic weave was selected, surface layer and surface-inner layer color effect were designed based on the weave, finally different fabrics were weaved accordance with yarn arrangement and loom drafting. The result show that : when the surface layer was designed by using method of color effect, part of fabric was pure colored and part of fabric was horizontal stripes; when surface and inner layer were designed by using method of color effect, the appearance of fabric was rich with diamond and longitudinal stripes.

Detection of fabric skew and texture direction based on Radon transform

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  47-51. 

Abstract ( 465 )   PDF (1314KB) ( 340 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to reduce the impact of fabric skew on automatic detection, fabric skew and texture direction are detected by Radon transform for fabric image. Firstly an image of plain fabric is simulated by computer programming with same parameter value of yarn diameter and yarn space. Then the simulated image is transformed by Radon projection. The relationship between direction of yarn and texture and projection curve peaks is analyzed. Finally, for images of ten fabric sample, the direction of warp yarn and weft yarn, texture direction, the angle between warp yarn and weft yarn are analyzed. Comparison with results by visual testing shows the method in this paper is more favorable.

Influence of accelerated degradation in vitro on polypropylene/polylactic acid biodegradable hernia patch

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  52-57. 

Abstract ( 616 )   PDF (1666KB) ( 275 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to make the composite patch with stable high-performance, this paper studied the effect of degradation process on the structure parameters including appearance, density and mechanical properties including tensile strength, bending stiffness of PP/PLA biodegradable hernia mesh which is treated with PBS, Na2CO3 and NaOH solution in different concentration. The results show that: Na2CO3 solution can speed the degradation of the mesh , but less obvious. 5% Na2CO3 is easier to lead to the weight loss of the patch than PBS, but for the loss of mechanical properties is similar. However, NaOH solution can significantly accelerate the degradation process. Both the weight and strength lost in such way during the process of degradation: degraded fast in the beginning, then slowed down, and with decomposition of PLA, finally tended to be stable. The bending stiffness of the positive side is much larger than the negative, and the longitudinal is larger than the transverse. While after the degradation, the bending stiffness turned to be no difference between the positive and negative, but the transverse came to be larger than the longitudinal.

Mechanical and acoustic properties of virginica stem bark fiber reinforced composites

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  58-63. 

Abstract ( 242 )   PDF (1837KB) ( 297 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to widen the application field of virginica stem bark fiber, virginica stem bark fiber which was extracted from virginica stem skin by alkali degumming technology was treated with alkali and the polypropylene composites reinforced virginica stem stem bark fiber with the content of 0%, 10%, 20%, 30%, and 40% were prepared. The effect of virginica stem bark fiber content on the tensile, flexural and acoustic property of the composites were discussed. The results showed that the tensile breaking strength, tensile modulus and flexural modulus of the composite reached the maximum when the fiber content was 30%, but the bending strength gradually improved with the increase of the content of the virginica stem bark fiber; When the fiber content overpass 10%, the acoustic property of composite first increased and then decreased with the trend of increasing audible frequency; When the audible frequency was the same, the more lower the content of the virginica stem bark fiber, the more poor the acoustic performance, but when the content of the virginica stem bark fiber overpass 30%,the peak voltage attenuation percentage declined.

Optimizing of process for treating ramie fibers by N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  64-68. 

Abstract ( 544 )   PDF (1346KB) ( 214 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to improve the properties of ramie fibers treated by N-methyllmorpholine-N-oxide (NMMO), an orthogonal experiment was designed for the optimization of the treatment peocess. By testing the properties of ramie fibers after treatment, it was found that under conditions of temperature of  65 ℃, concentration of NMMO solution 30% and treatment time of 20 min, the ramie fibers had optimum comprehensive properties. It was confirmed that no NMMO residue existed and no new types of cellulose generated on the treated jibers. Under the optimum conditions of the process, the breaking tenacity and crystallinity of the ramie fibers decreased by 23.84% and 21.08% while the linear density, breaking elongation and breaking rotation number of the ramie fibers increased by 11.05%, 41.36% and 57.53% , respectively. The comprehensive properties of the ramie fibers had a great improvement compared with those untreated.

Extracting of lanolin from raw wool with optimized subcritical fluid technology by response surface methodology

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  69-74. 

Abstract ( 214 )   PDF (1366KB) ( 541 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to improve the recovery rate of lanolin, raw wool was studied as raw material for the extraction of lanolin, and extraction yield of lanolin under different conditions by the subcritical extraction process was also investigated. The influence on lanolin extracting rate by extraction condition including the subcritical solvent, extraction temperature, time, times and liquid-solid ratio were examined, respectively, and on the basis of single factor experiment, the response surface methodology was used to optimization the technological parameter. It is concluded that technology conditions with the highest extraction rate is at 65 ℃, extracting 10 min, with the ratio 1:10 of solid to liquid, and repeat the whole extraction process for 5 times, and on this condition, extraction rate of lanolin can reach 6.03%. Considering the actual production efficiency and influence on fiber properties, the resulting optimum process for subcritical extraction lanolin is at 50 ℃, 3 times, and extraction rate is 4.43%.

Main chain stability of butanol polyether used as high-speed spinning finishes

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  75-78. 

Abstract ( 210 )   PDF (826KB) ( 213 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

Butanol polyther used as high-speed spinning finishes, generates organic peroxy compounds because of its main chain being oxidized, which will influence its structure and high-speed spinning finishes’ performances. The effect of alkaline, oxygen and high temperature on the main chain’s stability of butanol polyether was studied under production, storage and application conditions.The results demonstrated that alkaline favors the stability of butanol polyether. The peroxide value of butanol polyether increased to 189.7~ 226.6ppm under oxygen, while the peroxide value of butanol polyether increased marginally and the peroxide value is maintained at about 30ppm under nitrogen, which indicates that oxygen has a significant effect on its stability. Additionally, the polyether appeared to be more unstable under high temperatures，the peroxide value rose to 115.9~144.9ppm at the temperature of 210~230℃.

Preparation of antibacterial agent loaded with Cu2+ and performance of cotton fabric complexed with agent

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  79-84. 

Abstract ( 292 )   PDF (1840KB) ( 356 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

Aiming at the problem on the influence of different copper ion loaded finishing agents on the antibacterial performance and other use performances of cotton fabris, 3 kinds of copper ammonia solution are chemical reaction products made with different ratios of copper sulfate and sodium hydroxide. And then cotton fabrics are finished by 3 kinds of copper ammonia solution, with bath ratio of 1:30, a time of 20min and copper ion concentrations of 0.025M, 0.05M, 0.075M, 0.1M, 0.15M, 0.2M, 0.4M. Finally, antibacterial properties, breaking strength, and levelling ability are tested by quantitative agar diffusion method, the strip method and K / S method. The results show that: compared with the other two copper ammonia preparation program, when n (NaOH): n (CuSO4) = 1: 1 solution of copper ammonia complex is used to finish cotton fabric, fabric will present best antimicrobial performance with low degree of fabric damage and level dyeing property.

Influence of color and structure of scented fabrics on smell perception

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  85-91. 

Abstract ( 295 )   PDF (1639KB) ( 343 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to explore the reasonable collocation of fragrance and fabric, this paper focus on the effect of how different fabric colors and structure parameters influence people’s perception of fragrance. Through the subjective evaluation method, we evaluate and analyze the psychological feelings which are brought by the fabric’s fragrance. The experiment indicated that the subjective feelings and sensory synesthesia phenomenon affect people’s perception of fragrance. When the fragrance match with red fabric which color will bring a strong feeling, people feel the stronger smell. While the color of the fabric and the fragrance have a congruent visual association, the perception of the intensity of fragrance will be increased, the congruence match between the fragrance and color will be in the highest level, and also bring more pleasant feeling. In addition, yarn linear density, fabric weft density and fabric structure also have certain influences on compatibility of fabric and fragrance.The author hope it will provide a reference for fragrance fabric research and development.

Characteristic elements and constitution of modern tie-dyeing

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  92-97. 

Abstract ( 688 )   PDF (1757KB) ( 317 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to objectively describe the modern tie-dyeing technique and artistic characteristics, so as to better serve the textile and garment industry. Based on twodemensions of the tie-dyeing process and the pattern style, this paper quantifies the modern tie-dye characteristic elements from the process and pattern style. We get the characteristic elements' data through the investigation, and discuss its' composition by statistical analysis. The results show that characteristic elements of modern tie-dye process feature are binding, aggregating, dyeing, dipping and once forming; characteristic elements of pattern are multicolor, highly purity, strong contrast, line shape, simple structure, abstract, fashion, leisure and personality.

Determination on design cycle of printed fabrics based on distance matching function

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  98-103. 

Abstract ( 348 )   PDF (1529KB) ( 200 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

 In order to realizing automatic detection of fabric design cycle and the quality evaluation of printed fabrics effectively are necessary, and high-speed of fabric design production in the textile industry and well quality of fabrics should be ensured. In this paper, cycle of printed fabrics is determined via calculating distance matching function. One-dimensional distance matching function in each row and each column of patterned fabrics is calculated firstly based on cyclical pattern of fabrics, and the sums of distance matching function on all rows and columns are acted as two-dimensional distance matching function on row and column. When the cycle variable in two-dimensional distance matching function is the cycle of patterned fabrics, second forward difference of two-dimensional distance matching function reaches maximum. The experimental results show cycles of all kinds of fabrics detected by two-dimensional distance matching function are efficiency and accuracy. Compared with detection of patterned cycle of traditional autocorrelation function, proposed method of this paper can achieve accurate detection of patterned cycle, and various patterned cycle of fabrics can be inspected, thus a foundation is provided for real-time operation in industry.

Technological aesthetics of folk costume materials in Chinese water towns in south Yangtze River area

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  104-108. 

Abstract ( 355 )   PDF (1382KB) ( 184 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to explore the function, rationality and the impact of geographical environment on the folk costume, the paper reveals technological aesthetics of the materials of the folk costume of Chinese water towns in the southern Yangtze River area from three aspects: function,resource and craft based on a statistical analysis of 85 pieces of the folk costume stocked in Folk Costume Exhibition Museum in JiangNan University, the paper reveals technological aesthetics of the materials of the folk costume from 3 aspects: function, resource and craft. Production mode and life style of local people in water towns are introduced in the paper to analyze origin of technological aesthetics of the materials.

 Pattern design of shoulder shape of circular cut sleeve

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  109-113. 

Abstract ( 279 )   PDF (1051KB) ( 267 )   Save

References | Related Articles | Metrics

In order to analyse the influence of the shoulder shape factors on the static aesthetics property, dynamic comfort property of the circular cut sleeve, the paper investigated how the shoulder shape factors affected static and dynamic properties of the circular cut sleeve via making clothing samples and subjective wear trials. The results indicates that armpit shape has the greatest effect on static aesthetics property, while wearing comfort of the upper arm lifted 45o from the side direction influences the dynamic comfort property most; sample clothes with satisfactory static aesthetics property have unsatisfactory dynamic comfort property; wearing property of circular cut sleeve in the static and dynamic state can be predicted by the prediction models, which provides theoretical guidance for design and production work.

Optimal resolution of 3-D garment model based on Meredith method

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  114-119. 

Abstract ( 399 )   PDF (1805KB) ( 170 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

The data volume of 3D garment model is closed related to its visual quality. Considering the limitation of model data in real-time rendering, it is necessary to study the relationship between them and find the best resolution which meets the demands of the real-time rendering. Simplified 3D garment models with different resolutions were obtained from the origin model. Similarity and curvature distribution were used to characterize their visual effects. The relationship between model data and their visual effects were analyzed. Meredith method was used to calculate the best resolution of 3D garment model. The results show that the best resolution of 3D garment model can be obtained effectively by Meredith method. A 90% reduction in the data volume of 3D garment model will not have a significant influence on its visual effect.

Characterization of skin deformation of female lower limb based on skeletal muscle simulation for cycling motion

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  120-124. 

Abstract ( 231 )   PDF (1242KB) ( 489 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

By modeling system, movement of female limb joints, skeletal and muscle were analyzed for cycling sports. Five key frames were chosen, the five frames were critical points of joints, skeletal and muscle motion. The method of mask rubbed deformed skin of five key frames and areas were computed by graphics software. The deformation of thigh skin was researched in quantitative and qualitative. The experiment founds the skin of hip is stretch and the rate of stretch reaches 58% in the area of hip fold. The skin shrinkage of oblique area near groin increases gradually, shrinkage rate reaches 50%. Skin deformation of anterior thigh is bigger than posterior thigh. It provides theoretical basis for specific loose measurement design of each partitioning area of the cycling trousers and the fabric selection. 

Analysis of traveller performance based on ADAMS

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  125-130. 

Abstract ( 274 )   PDF (1288KB) ( 164 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

With the increasing of the spinning speed, whether the geometric shape of traveller is reasonable and whether the matching of the traveler and the ring is proper tave great influence on the yarn quality. The force between ring and traveller was analyzed firstly. Then, entity models of ring and three kinds of travellers were built in SolidWorks. Finally, simulation analysis of ring and traveler were conducted in Adams. In summary, the conclusion is that U1ULUDR traveller using performance is the best one and FO traveller using performance is better than 6903 traveller. This paper provides a method for the analysis of the force between ring and traveller and a theoretic basis for traveller using, design and manufacture.

Improvement on non-transfer type thermal shrinkage rate testing device for synthetic fibres

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  131-134. 

Abstract ( 222 )   PDF (1124KB) ( 291 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to deal with the defects of existing testing devices and methods for thermal shrinkage of synthetic fibers, improvement on the device and the testing principle and method are described. This device integrates heat treatment and pyrocondensation rate test, avoid stretch error due to the transfer of fiber；during the process of testing fibre sample is no longer driven by the cylinder sample rotation but motionless, avoiding the time loss via fiber “static - Dynamic – static” . Practice shows: its structure is simple, its operation is convenient and fast, it protects environmental, so it has higher application and promotion value.

Asymmetric line-cosine-straight and its application in warp knitting machine

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  135-139. 

Abstract ( 552 )   PDF (1045KB) ( 182 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to meet the requirements of the motion of multi-bar warp-knitting machine groove needle，asymmetric linear-cosine-linear combined motion law was applied to achieve cam mechanism and insure its motion. The relationship between the expression parameters, offset, acceleration extreme and the composition of the motion law was analyzed. Based on these analyses the relationship between the ratio of three–stage cam angle and the kinematic parameters of the follower, which includes displacement, velocity, acceleration and jerk, was deduced. In addition, according to the boundary conditions, the integral constants and the acceleration extremes of each movement were determined. Compared with the law of asymmetric cosine acceleration movement, the values of acceleration and jerk of asymmetric linear-cosine-linear combined motion law decreased in different degrees. Employing this law to the cam mechanism motion of the warp knitting machine, the altitude of the groove needle’s trajectory ascends in some degree in the upswing. Which is beneficial to loop withdraw and to avoid the interference between the yarns on the front and the latter guided needle bars.

Computer-aided design of fall-plate Jacquard fabrics with nest effect

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  140-145. 

Abstract ( 328 )   PDF (1810KB) ( 262 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

To realize the rapid design of the fall plate jacquard nest effect fabric, a computer-aided design method was presented. The computer aided design model was built on the basis of the piezoceramics jacquard principle and the lapping rules of jacquard four needles technology. There matrices were used as the model of yarn laying, drawing-in and artistic conception drawing respectively, based on which ,we summarized the design requirements of fabrics with nest effect and proposed the fast design method. A stich bank containing 4 kinds of nest effect were built to be invoked directly in the future design process. .Furthermore, computer aided design step was introduced in detail. A nest effect curtain was designed to give a proof of the computer aided design method proposed in this article. As the nest effect fabric has broad application prospects, it is of importance to realize high efficiency jacquard design and shorten the design efficiency.

Simulation of clothing sewing line and evaluation indexes

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  146-151. 

Abstract ( 316 )   PDF (1230KB) ( 256 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to accurately accurate describe the production efficiency of a clothing sewing line, Based on analyzing calculation methods of a systematic series of line balancing indexes and production efficiency indexes, simulation of clothing assembly lines was demonstrated. Then, scenarios of T-shirt line were studied to build simulation models in order to analyze the internal relevance among line balancing indexes and the external relevance between these indexes and production efficiency. The chosen line balancing indexes in this study analyzed on accuracy, and the balance degree indexes for the evaluation of the line design solution were proposed.

New emotional design mode for haute couture

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  152-157. 

Abstract ( 422 )   PDF (1715KB) ( 866 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to explore the trend of Haute Couture in China, we analyzed the development stages, opportunities and challenges of Haute Couture from the aspects of traditional culture, economic aspect and Maslow's hierarchy of needs. Meanwhile, according to the three different requirements of emotional design theory: instinctive level, behavioral level and reflective level, a new emotional design mode of Haute Couture was established combining needs-emotion curve, information technology and social media. The result shows that the emotional design mode may fulfill users’ affective needs and improve the users’ experience of Haute Couture significantly. It could make great contributions to transformation and upgrading of China’s apparel industry.

Review of smart garment materials and wearability thereof

Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(12):  158-164. 

Abstract ( 468 )   PDF (1946KB) ( 573 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

This paper combs the research findings of smart garment materials at home and abroad over the past 20 years, then defines its classification, and chooses several representative categories as a key introduction. At the same time, the paper overviews the design of security clothing and regards the smart material as a security element to apply for the design of security clothing to realize the fusion of technology and fashion. Also it points out the application principles and methods for using smart garment materials in security clothing and emphasizes three-in-one of function design, style design, color design through analyzing the design patterns for security clothing. Finally, the paper explores the development trend of smart garment material and its application practice in security clothing in the future.