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Table of Content

    15 March 2016, Volume 37 Issue 3
    • Preparation of carbon nanofiers from Polyacry lonitrile with high molecular weight
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  1-5. 
      Abstract ( 495 )   PDF (1199KB) ( 207 )   Save
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      Electrospunnanofibers from Polyacry lonitrile(PNA) with high molecular weight of 300,000 and its mixture of PAN/PMMA were prepared , then oxidized and carbonized to provide the PAN-based solid and porous carbon nanofibers. SEM and diameter analysis were used to measure the morphology and the diameter distribution of the nanofibers. The experiments show that the appropriate PAN spinning concentration is 6 wt%. The diameter of PAN nanofibers is 1242 nm. When the PMMA is added, the diameter of PAN nanofibers decreased to 519 nm with the narrower diameter distribution than that of PAN. Introduce of strain during the oxidation process can effectively maintain the fibrous shape. Carbonization made the diameters of both the PAN and PAN/PMMA nanofibers significantly decrease. The former shows the even diameter of 683 nm and the latter 374 nm. SEM shows that the PAN/PMMA carbon nanofibers have the porous cross-section.

      Preparation and characterization of low melting point polyamide
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  6-10. 
      Abstract ( 787 )   PDF (1003KB) ( 287 )   Save
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      Dodecanedioic acid, decamethylene diamine, decanedioic acid, hexamethylene diamine and caprolactam were selected to prepare serial polyamides with low melting point, which contained different proportions of diamines, through the direct melt polymerization, characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectrometer (FTIR), differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). The typical characteristic peaks of polyamide almost appeared in all the FTIR spectra .DSC indicated that the melting point and crystallinity of polymers decreased significantly when the ratio of decamethylene diamine and hexamethylene diamine was close to 1:1. Thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) revealed that the thermal stability of the samples was improved with the increase of decamethylene diamine content. The results of the boiling water extraction demonstrated that the contents of two amine monomers and the oligomers in the polyamides with lower melting point were less than 0.63%, which can be directly used in the subsequent processing.

      Influence of spinning parameters based on gap conductive plate method on orientation of polycaprotactone nanofibers
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  11-15. 
      Abstract ( 334 )   PDF (1594KB) ( 225 )   Save
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      In order to study the influence of spinning parameters on the orientation of nanofiber, the modified gap conductive plate method was adopted to fabricate PCL aligned nanofiber membrane. The mass fraction of PCL was set at 12% in this study, and a mixture solution, DCM/DMF (5/1,v/v) was used as solvent. The orientation degree of PCL nanofiber was observed by POM microscopy, and analyzed according to the definition of orientation degree. The effect of two spinning parameters, spinning distance and copper gap, on the orientation of PCL nanofiber was discussed in detail. The results showed that the orientation degree of PCL nanofiber was decreased with the increasing of spinning distance, while too small spinning distance would reduce the nanofiber orientation degree. Moreover, the orientation degree of PCL nanofiber also increased with the enlargement of copper gap in the receiving device, when the copper gap increased to a certain distance, the orientation degree of PCL nanofiber membrane trended to keep a fixed data.

      Influence of ultrasound treatment on mechanical property of bamboo fibers modified by nanoparticles
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  16-20. 
      Abstract ( 602 )   PDF (1540KB) ( 315 )   Save
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      To improve the mechanical properits of individual bamboo fiber, the ultrasonic treatment was performed to the bamboo fibers modified by nanoparticles. The influence of ultrasonic frequency and ultrasonic treatment time on mechanical properties of individual modified bamboo fiber was also studied. Field emission environmental scanning electron microscope (FEGSEM), hight precision machanical property tester ( HPMPT) and confocal laser scanning microscope (CLSM) wewe used to characterize the surface morphology, the load of CaCO3 and mechanical properties of individual modified bamboo fiber subjected to ultrasonic treatment. The results showed that the tensile strength and elasticity modulus (MOE) of single modified bamboo fiber increased by 15.99% and 7.81%, respectively, compared with the untreated bamboo fiber. The optimal process conditions for individual bamboo fiber modified byultrasonic treatment were determined to be an ultraonic frequency of 45 kHz and an ultrasonic time of 10 min.

      Softening treatment of cotton-straw bast fibers by oxalic acid
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  21-24. 
      Abstract ( 397 )   PDF (825KB) ( 254 )   Save
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      Oxalic acid was used for the softening of cotton-straw bast fiber so as to improve the fibers’ textile application. By orthogonal experiment and intuitive analysis and variance analysis methods, it was obtained that the influence degree of experimental factors on the flexibility of cotton-straw bast fiber and the optimum parameters of the fiber softening treatment. Under the optimum parameters, the flexibility of . cotton-straw bast fiber was 2.55 T/(m?tex) and the strength of the fiber was 3.13cN/dtex. At significance level α=0.01, curing temperature had significant influence on the fiber flexibility. Based on X-ray diffraction analysis on D/MAX-2400 and related calculations, it was showed that the crystallinity of the treated fibers was 64.9%, which was less than that of untreated fibers.

      Process optimization of superhigh draft spinning of Lyocell yarnesr
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  25-30. 
      Abstract ( 538 )   PDF (1199KB) ( 273 )   Save
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      In order to solve spinning difficulties of Lyocell yarns in super high drafting that is prone to worsen yarn evenness, increase more neps and hairiness, this article used fuzzy decision method to optimize the spinning key technologies of super high draft spinning lyocell fiber, we also discussed the influence of the top pin and the central-top roller for 7.4tex closely lyocell yarn qualities. The fuzzy clustering method were used to verify the decision results of intimate data method and borda method, the results show that 7.4tex closely lyocell yarn qualities can be effectively improved, under the conditions that the front area and the central area use front-extended top pin combined with rubber-covered rollers, which can satisfy yarn quality requirements of developing high-grade lyocell textile fabrics, we could also know that the center-area key process parameters have the greatest impact on Lyocell yarns.

      Biochemistry treatment on wet spinning flax yarn
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  31-34. 
      Abstract ( 456 )   PDF (850KB) ( 219 )   Save
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      The flax yarn spun with wet spinning process is poor in evenness, high in stiffness, and easy to be broken during weaving. In order to solve the problems, a biochemistry treatment peocess was used to discuss the influence on the properties of flax yarns. The yarns were first modified with NaOH/urea solution, and then treated withd laccase/ acidxylanase compound enzyme. The results indicate the optimum technology parameters as followed.  The dosage of NaOH is 6.5%(o.w.f) in the modification of NaOH/urea solution, the dosage of compound enzyme are separate laccase 4.0%(o.w.f) and acid xylanase 4.5%(o.w.f) in compound enzyme process, the treatment temperature is 50℃, and the time is 90 min. Under this biochemical treatment process, the yarn evenness CV increases 41%, capillary effect increases 134%, and the elongation at break increases 95.8%. The physical and mechanical properties improve are improved significantly. It can create a certain condition for the weaving of flax yarns.

      Automatic construction of digital woven fabric using sequence yarn images
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  35-40. 
      Abstract ( 312 )   PDF (1567KB) ( 376 )   Save
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      In order to detect the influence of yarn evenness on the fabric appearance, a new method was proposed for constructing digital woven fabric (DWF) using sequence yarn images. The yarn diameter was combined with the gray texture distribution of elementary interlacing points based on the woven structure model and curve model of light intensity. And then the mathematical model of digital woven fabric was constructed. In experiment, the diameter data of yarn, which was obtained by processing the yarn sequence images based on image segmentation and morphology operation, was applied to the mathematical model for constructing digital woven fabric. Different digital woven fabric images were discussed by changing the relevant parameters. The proposed mathematical model can really reflect the effect of yarn evenness on the fabric appearance and accurately predict the surface effect by selecting the reasonable parameters.

      Calculation on bending stiffness of woven fabrics by image processing method
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  41-46. 
      Abstract ( 363 )   PDF (1485KB) ( 271 )   Save
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      To evaluate the accuracy of the fabric model used in virtual cloth, it is necessary to compare the bending properties between the virtual fabric and real fabric. A new method is proposed to test the bending property of woven based on image processing. An instrument has been made to collect the bending shape of woven fabrics under the cantilever beam tests. The real fabric bending under its own weight consists of warping which is inevitable in most cases. Therefore certain curve a mid-curve selected from five candidates has been proved to be the suitable bending curve to represent the bending shape of the fabric. An approach of the mid-line representing the fabric’s bending properties has been developed after calculating the bending stiffness of fabric’s five different curve. This calculation and test method have been validated by experimental observations and correlation with KES test method.The results of tests on 45 degree and 41.5 degree inclined plane also reached a good consistency.

      Comparative research on electromagnetic shielding effectiveness of fabric tested by flange coaxial method and shielding chamber method
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  47-54. 
      Abstract ( 484 )   PDF (1757KB) ( 201 )   Save
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      The electromagnetic shielding effectiveness of a series of stainless fabrics are tested by the Flange coaxial method(30 MHz~1.5 GHz) and the shielding chamber method(1~18 GHz,18~26.5 GHz). Under the two different testing methods, the distribution of the electric field component and the magnetic field component on the sample surface is obviously difference. The shielding chamber method could reflect the directivity of the anisotropy fabrics and the Flange coaxial method could not. Because the electromagnetic wave length is longer in the Flange coaxial method, the same metal fiber distance and the aperture of the same size would affect the electromagnetic shielding effectiveness tested with the Flange coaxial less than with the shielding chamber method. Only the electromagnetic shielding fabrics, with the same metal arrangement spacing in the warp and weft yarn, with macro isotropic electric properties, would follow the same regularity tested with two kinds of test methods, and also is the economic and effective optimum structure form to the unknown direction electromagnetic waves.

      Edge design on multi-bar Raschel positioning lace fabric
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  55-59. 
      Abstract ( 269 )   PDF (1868KB) ( 196 )   Save
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      Edge design is a feature designed to multi-bar Raschel positioning lace, and it plays a key role in the overall aesthetic effect of fabric and wearability. For multi-bar Raschel positioning lace fabric edge design problems, the article analyzing the characteristic of edge, summarizes the commonly used form of edge structure and arrangement. At the same time, the design method of edge were summarized as: independent pattern design method, the main body pattern design method and similar to the pattern design method. And expounds the characteristics of the three design method and element collocation, it concludes a set of suitable for design concept of multi-bar Raschel positioning lace edge design. This research helps to improve the level of design and production.

      Preparation and high velocity impact performance of combined 3-D woven composites
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  60-65. 
      Abstract ( 308 )   PDF (1663KB) ( 350 )   Save
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      In order to develop light and soft protective equipment, 8 kinds of combined woven structures were designed based on orthogonal structure unit and quasi orthogonal structure unit, the woves were made by UHMWPE fibers, and the high velocity impact performance was tested with ballistic penetration test, softness was tested with bending strength test. Factors affecting their bulletproof property and wearability were discussed. The results show that orthogonal structure unit exhibits better shear resistance and is for the impact face. Placing orthogonal structure unit close to the impact face is 35.7 % higher than quasi orthogonal structure unit of energy absorbed upon ballistic impact. It has also been found that quasi orthogonal structure unit gives better tensile resistance and leads to better softness, the value of its woven is only 52 % of combined woven.

      Comparative study of Hunan embroidery and Sichuan embroidery skill and art
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  66-71. 
      Abstract ( 346 )   PDF (1490KB) ( 414 )   Save
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      In order to strengthen and develop the strong regional characteristics of Hunan embroidery and Shu embroidery, the common and individuality of these two embroideries were summarized and analyzedfrom the aspects of aspects of historical origin, artisticstyle, material, color, stitch and embroidery skills, etc. The Hunan embroidery is plentiful in thread and color, and has changes from deep to shallow in color of thread. However, the mainnaterials used in Shu embroidery are scoured and dyed thread in Chengdu,  indicating the strong regional characteristics. Shu embroider is optimum in cultuer base and sophisticated line in comparison with Hunan embroidery. This study will provide guidance for research of embroidery skill, inheritance and marketing promotion.

      Moisture absorption and liberation regularities of textile sizes
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  72-77. 
      Abstract ( 294 )   PDF (1293KB) ( 277 )   Save
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      The moisture absorption and liberation regularities of textile sizes was studied to provide theoretical basis for setting up the relative humidity in weaving workshop. According to the national standards, the oven drying method was used to analysis the moisture absorption and liberation regularities of starch size, polyrinyl alcohol (PVA ) and polyacrylic acid sizes. The differences of moisture absorption and liberation regularities among the sizes were also analyzed from their structures. The reslts show that for the moisture absorption performance at the same relative humidity, the polyacrylamide is the best, the starch is better than PVA, and  polyacrylate is the worst. It means that polyacrylate is not sensitive to humidity. The liberation regularities of variety sizes show that starch size and polyacrylamide have higher moisture regains. The final moisture absorption regains and liberation regains of sizes under the relative humidity of 56% indicate that absorption hysteresis exists.

      Study on anti-UV property of cotton fibrics by in-situ generation of TiO2
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  78-81. 
      Abstract ( 561 )   PDF (1037KB) ( 383 )   Save
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      In order to endow cotton fabric with more excellent resistance on anti-UV property, butyl titanate was used as the precursor and the method of in-situ formation of  nano-TiO2 was adopted in this report. The effect of the precursor, the hydrolysate, the temperate, and the handling time on anti-UV properties was analyzed using orthogonal test. The results showed that when the cotton fibers were treated under conditionsa of the precursor  concentration of 8g/L, the ratio of water and ethanol of 60:40, the treatment temperature of 70℃, and the time of 30 min, the fabrics woven with such fibers were anti-UV with the UPFvalue of 39.4.

      Printing performance of UV curable waterborne polyurethane acrylate adhesive
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  82-86. 
      Abstract ( 514 )   PDF (3221KB) ( 521 )   Save
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      In order to study the effect of UV curing on the printing performance, polyurethane was synthesized from isophoronediisocyanate and polyethylene glycol as the main raw material, then the pentaerythritol triacrylate was employed as blocking agent to synthesis polyurethane acrylate(PUA). The structure of PUA was analyzed by FTIR. The PUA, monomer and photoinitiator were mixed and then applied in fixation of pigment printing via UV irradiation. The effects of component content and UV irradiation time on the printing fabric fastness, K/S value, hand feeling and the printed pattern definition were studied. It indicated that under the condition of 25% PUA, 6% monomer, 5% photoinitiator, UV irradiation 60 s, the washing fastness, dry and wet rubbing fastness of printed fabric can reach 5 grade, 4-5 grade and 3 grade, respectively. The printing patterns also show excellent definition.

      Aging and yellowing properties of squalene-soiled cotton fabrics
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  87-91. 
      Abstract ( 659 )   PDF (879KB) ( 667 )   Save
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      Squalene from human sebum is the major source of yellowing and aging of clothing and household textiles. In this study, the yellowing degrees of the squalene-soiled fabrics that aged under various aging conditions (temperature, humidity, light intensity and ambient oxygen content, etc.) were systematically studied. The yellowing degrees of squalene-soiled/aged fabrics were measured by colorimetric spectrophotometer. The chemical changes of squalene and the surface morphology of squalene-soiled/aged fabric were examined with Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy(FTIR)and the field emission scanning electron microscopy(SEM). The results showed that, with increase in the temperature, humidity, light intensity and oxygen content of the aging environment, the yellowing level of squalene-soiled fabrics increased. The chemical structure of squalene changed significantly after aging, and the aging product contained hydroxyl group and carbonyl group. The vast majority of squalene padded onto the cotton fabrics was coated on the fiber surfaces or filled in the dents among fibers.

      Biological enzyme pretreatmentprocess for cotton/rayon elastic fabric
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  92-97. 
      Abstract ( 510 )   PDF (900KB) ( 317 )   Save
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      In order to avoid fabric damage and reduce discharge concentration and quantity of waste water, a biological enzyme pretreatnent process on cotton-rayon elastic fabrics was put forward. Anefficient surfactant with excellent permeability and emulsifying properties was selected to combine withbiological enzyme in the treatment of grey cloth. Therefore, the impurities on grey cloth were degraded, emulsified and solubilized. Then the oxygen bleaching process were conducted in the following pretreatment peocess. The removal rate of pectin, capillary effect, whiteness, strength damage rate and pollutant concentration were investigated by parallel and orthogonal experiments. The results showed that the removal rate of pectin reached 89.3%, capillary effect was 9.5 cm (30min), and the whiteness reached 85.9%. The strength damage rate was less than that of conventional process. The sample quality meet the requirement of the semi-finished peoducts. The COD value of wastewater was 35.9% lower than that produced during regular process. In the meanwhile, color degree reduced by 56 times and pH value decreased by 1.7 in comparison with the conventional process used in factory. The bilogical enzyme pretreatment process gad obvinus effect on emission reduction. 

      Preparation and properties of Self-cleaning nano-TiO2 sol
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  98-103. 
      Abstract ( 315 )   PDF (1219KB) ( 198 )   Save
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      Tetrabutyl titanate was used as raw material and sol-gel method was chosen to prepare titanium dioxide sol .Using the time of gel as a evaluation system, through analyzing the single dispersant with tetrabutyl titanate, water, glacial acetic acid, absolute ethyl alcohol and trolamine, mixture ratio coverage of each reactant are determined, after that by orthogonal test and optimality analysis, the optimal mixture ratio is fixed and the optimal technological parameter are gained. By means of solid contents and granularity of the titanium dioxide sol and infra-red spectrum, the widespread existence of nano titanium dioxide is proved. Then the self-cleaning performance of finishing cashmere knitted fabric is tested. The results show that after 48 hours of natural light, the oil stain can be completely decomposed. It indicates that the cashmere knitted fabric that contains 80% nano-TiO2 finishing agent has great self-cleaning performance.

      Preparation of superhydrophobic polyester fabric by high temperature and high pressure inlaying method
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  104-109. 
      Abstract ( 342 )   PDF (1767KB) ( 293 )   Save
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      In order to invent a short process technology of preparing superhydrophobic polyester fabric, polyester faberinlaid with polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) was prepared under high pressuer at high temperature. The results show that the effects of PDMS inlay on the surface of polyester can endow the fabric superhydrophobicity, the water contact angle (WCA), sliding angle (SA) and spray rating can reach 163.4o, 7.0o and 5 degree, respectively. Moreover, the modified fabric has excellent laundering durability. Through the scanning electron microscope (SEM) graphs, it shows that the edges and corners of modified polyester fiber are much vaguer than that of the untreated polyester fiber and the surface becomes roughness because of the effect of inlay finishing. The result of infrared spectrum analysis indicates that PDMS has successfully inlaid into the framework of polyester fiber. According to the analysis of X-ray diffraction and differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), the main structure of polyester fiber is almost not damaged in the treating process, the bending stiffness and whiteness remain well, and the elasticity increases slightly, while the breaking strength declines a little. Thus, the method is with short process, low cost and excellent effect, and has a good application prospect.

      Flame retardant finishing of acrylic fabric using nitrilase/zinc borate
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  110-113. 
      Abstract ( 480 )   PDF (899KB) ( 174 )   Save
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      In order to improve its flame retardant properties, acrylic fabric was pretreated with nitrilase, followed by zinc borate flame retardant finishing in order to improve its flame retardant properties. The enhancement of flame retardant property was studied by X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS), thermogravimetric analysis (TG), Zeta potential measurement, weight gain rate and limiting oxygen index (LOI). The results showed that enzymatic pretreatment efficiently improve the adsorption and combination of zinc Borate on acrylic fibers. So the flame retardant property of acrylic fabric further improved. The weight gain rate and LOI value of nitrilase/zinc borate treated sample increased respectively 4.9% and 10.3% compaired with zinc borate treated sample. The limiting oxygen index of the treated sample increased to 27.8%.

      Fluorine-free water repellent finish of worsted fabric
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  114-118. 
      Abstract ( 486 )   Save
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      In order to meet environmental requirerment, the aim of this study is to endow water repellency of wool fabric by using fluorine-free water repellent agent WS CONC., thus avoiding the potential risk for environment from fluoroalkyl compounds. The influence of concentration of water repellent agent WS CONC. and catalyst agent BC, curing temperature and time on water repellency of wool fabric was disscussed. Water contact angle was used to observe water rpellency of wool fabric. The results showed that the optimum finishing process was: 70 % take-up, fluorine-free water repellent agent WS CONC. 60 g/L, catalyst agent BC 60 g/L, curing at 170 ℃ for 70 seconds. After finishing, the initial water repellent level of wool fabric was 100, and 75 after 5 dry cleaning. The hand feeling of wool fabric was poor soft, color sightly yellowed, and strength increased.

      Transformation from style to pattern for men’s shirt with one-piece sleeve
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  119-126. 
      Abstract ( 1185 )   PDF (1556KB) ( 229 )   Save
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      Considering the fact that the intelligent transformation from garment drawing to its pattern in the intelligent clothing design, taking men’s shirt as an example, using parametric methods to study the transformation for the sleeve. The first step is to determine the key points and characteristic lines, and then to determine the values of sleeve crown height according to the one-piece sleeve’s cartographic convention. Second, combing the ratio of sleeve length between garment drawing and its pattern, the length of the relevant characteristic lines are calculated, and then the preliminary frame diagram of pattern is obtained. Finally, using the method of the B-Spline curve we construct the curves which have not yet been gotten in the preliminary frame diagram of pattern, and then figure out the coordinates of relative points of B-Spline curves through the geometry relationship. And then the parametric relationship is established, and the transformation between garment drawing and pattern of men’s shirt with one-piece sleeve is accomplished completely at last.

      Composition analysis of waist pouch used by Han people in North China
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  127-131. 
      Abstract ( 316 )   PDF (1356KB) ( 195 )   Save
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      On the basis of physical and empirical research, composition culture and arts of waist pouches used by Han people in the North China are unscrambled. By the classified study on collections of antique waist pouches, we have learnt that the northern waist pouches should be classified into two types: the bowl-shaped “Lu-Dou” and the belt-shaped “Man-Yao-Zhuan”, while the former was more widespread and with richer forms. By the comparison of districts and types, we have found that the waist pouches have their own special characteristics, such as the standardized style, flattened shape, fabric-saving techniques, meaningful patterns and the equalizing composition. And these composing arts reflect the classical idea of "respecting traditions and following rules", creation thought of "conforming to nature and according to material", as well as the "meaningful and auspicious" pattern arts of the clothing culture of the Han ethnics.

      Modern folk bellyband shape and manual repairing stitch
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  132-137. 
      Abstract ( 693 )   PDF (1507KB) ( 281 )   Save
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      In order to study the shape and manual stitch on the bellyband, mainly by deep investigation and analysis on the bellyband of Folk costume Teach and Learn Studio of Jiangnan University and Wuyuan Museum, the bellyband shape and tailoring manual stitch skill of partial repaired bellyband are classified, which exploraatorily recover the historical and cultural memory of bellyband. The pure manual methods of repairing and preserving of traditional bellyband are found out. Based on following the fieldwork practice, and wisiting the folk handmade artists, exploring the origin of cultural connotation of bellyband, and trying to repair the remaining incomplete bellyband by rsing the traditional craftsmanship stitch to recover, it is proved that the manual repair is possibile and superior. This provides reference for repair path of the old and defective textile garments.

      Image inspection of fiber blending percentages in colored spun yarns
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  138-143. 
      Abstract ( 333 )   PDF (1570KB) ( 235 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problems of the empirical spadework and time consuming when confirming the proportions of the colored fibers in the colored spun yarns, problems associated with the help of the video microscopy and image processing technology, a novel method based on a clustering algorithm is proposed to classify the color fibers and inspect the proportions of different color fibers. Firstly, the colored spun yarns are twisted into fibers, the colored fibers are arranged on the slide under mild tension, and the corresponding images are captured by video microscopy. Secondly, the gray projection method is adopted to localize the colred fibers, and the average value of R, G, B of all pixels in the center line of each colored fiber is extracted as a feature vector to characterize the fiber respectively. Finally, the feature vectors in RGB model are converted to the L*a*b* color model, a coustering algorithm by searching density peaks is applide into classifying the colored fibers and the  proportions of each color fibers are calculated. Experiments results demonstrate that the proposed method can inspect the colors and proportions of colored fibers in the colored spun yarns automatically with a satisfactory accuracy.

      Woven fabric defect detection based on nonnegnative dictionary learning
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  144-149. 
      Abstract ( 398 )   PDF (1602KB) ( 227 )   Save
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      In order to improve the versatklity of detection algorithm on varying fabric defect types, an algorithm for woven fabric defect detection using dictionary learning (DL) is proposed. Firstly, normal fabric image is divided into small image patches and unfloded into a column vector, then all the column vectors are combined into a matrix. Secondly, the matrix composed of column vectors is solved by DL, and then the optimal dictionary(basis vectors) are extracted. Finally the dictionary is applied to reconstruct testing samples, where the reconstruction error between original and reconstruction image is used for defect detection. Effect of the patch size and number of dictionary is also investigated. Experiments on 4864 samples show that the proposed method can achieve 90% of detection rate with false detection rate below 10%.

      Image distortion correction on structure identification
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  150-155. 
      Abstract ( 246 )   PDF (1549KB) ( 273 )   Save
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      The projection transformation and the local weighted mean conversion method based on polynomial fitting is proposed to correct the deformation of weft knitted loop image, perspective and lens distortion which influences automatic identification accuracy of stitch structure. Combined with the need of the development for hand-held device, the standard templates were designed and feasible correcting process was set. A general scheme correction of the perspective distortion and lens distortion are designed in the paper. The correction scheme for fabric stitch distortion are also been discussed. The experiment results showed that the presented approaches have satisfactory effect for distortion correction of weft knitted fabric image.

      Calculation model of carbon emissions in garment production processes
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  156-159. 
      Abstract ( 385 )   PDF (991KB) ( 273 )   Save
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      In order to monitor and evaluate of corporate carbon emissions, quantitative analysis and model establishment of carbon emissions in garment production process are quite important. Based on rules and definitions of carbon emission, the paper analyzed organizations of garment production lines and emission factors of cutting, sewing and finishing processes from production equipment, transfer process, waste emissions and labor consumption respectively, establishing the corresponding calculation model. All the energies are transformed into carbon dioxide equivalent in order to assessment carbon emissions conveniently later. In addition, the theoretical model provides a reference for analysis of carbon emissions in garment production processes, applicable to tracking analysis of corporate carbon emissions as well as the reference of organization in production optimization.

       Visual perception of consumers on clothing display
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  160-165. 
      Abstract ( 300 )   PDF (2085KB) ( 326 )   Save
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       In order to analyze the visual perception of different consumers to different display effects and provide a different perspective for the clothing display and application, an eye-tracking apparatus was used to test the response of consumers to the window display effect of two women's clothing brands. Based on the clothing display and visual marketing theory, wariance anslysis was carried out to the number of points in each region, start watching time, first continuous time and number of regression of the subjects by using SPSS software. The results show that there significant difference in the measurement index values of the eye movement tracking of the display area, which has the analysis value. Through the comparison of different display effects of two brands, the final results benefit to clothing display methods and techniques and promote the sales and the spread of brand culture for enterprises as well.

      Reaserch progress and prospect of bioprocessing technology on poly(ethylene terephthalate)
      Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(3):  166-172. 
      Abstract ( 283 )   PDF (1714KB) ( 245 )   Save
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      Bioprocessing is an important way to achieve functional and high performance polymers. Biofunctionalization of poly(ethylene terephthalate) has becoming a hot issue of textile biotechnology. In this paper, breeding of polyester decomposition microbes and the characteristics of the two main decomposing enzyme were reviewed. Finally, the general biodegradation process of polyester was summarized. Measurements of the polyester substrate structural performance and formation of breakdown products after the biocatalysis processes were further discussed. Moreover, prospects for development direction of biological processing technology for polyester were presented. The study was expected to provide assistance for modifying polyester biologically in an industrial environment.