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Table of Content

    15 June 2016, Volume 37 Issue 06
    • Preparation of nanocrystalline cellulose and application on water repellent finishing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  1-6. 
      Abstract ( 338 )   PDF (1540KB) ( 273 )   Save
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      Nano-crystalline cellulose (NCC) was prepared by acid hydrolysis and cooperated with organo-silicon on cotton fabric for water-repellent finishing by two-bath process in order to develop a fluorine-free and eco-friendly water-repellent finishing method. The preparation condition of NCC was optimized. Structure and property of NCC were charactered by FT-IR, X-ray diffraction and thermogravimetry. Influence of particle size of NCC and parameters of finishing on water repellency were discussed. The results indicate that optimized preparation condition of NCC is: H2SO4 concentration is 60 wt% to 65wt%, temperature is 40-50℃ and acid hydrolysis time is 2 to3 h. NCC of 220 nm cooperated with organo- silicon water repellent finishing agents can increase water-repellency grade from 85 marks to 95marks. The photo of SEM proves that rough structure on the surface of finished fabric has formed. When NCC is used in water repellent finishing cooperated with organo-silicon, the optimized parameters of finishing are: drying time of NCC is 180s, curing time of water repellent finishing is 90s, curing temperature is 160℃.

      Preparation and characterization of microcrystalline cellulose from Salix psammophila bark
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  7-12. 
      Abstract ( 396 )   PDF (1520KB) ( 182 )   Save
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      To utilize the Salix resources and reduce environmental pollution, the Salix bark was used as raw materialin this study.The cellulose was extracted and separated by chemical treatment methods. Eventually, the pure microcrystalline cellulose was obtained. During the study, the morphology and crystal structure of the microcrystalline cellulose were characterized by means of scanning electron microscopy (SEM), X-ray diffraction (XRD) and other measurements. Moreover, the particle size of microcrystalline cellulose was analyzed using a microscope. The results demonstrate that, hemicellulose and lignin are removed gradually by stepwise treatment, and the crystallinity of cellulose increase. The microcrystalline cellulose shows a rod-like shape,degree of polymerization of 185.7, and about 85% of the length distributes between 20-60 μm. Average length of the Salix microcrystalline cellulose is 46±15 μm with an average diameter of 10±3 μm. Our work provides a new approach to obtaining microcrystalline cellulose as well as a solution to the problem ofthe waste of the resources of Salix Psammophila.

      Adsorption property of rice straw fiber to copper ions
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  13-17. 
      Abstract ( 230 )   PDF (1109KB) ( 226 )   Save
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      In order to study the adsorption properties of rice straw fiber for Cu2+,the influence of initial Cu2+ concentration, time,temperature, ratio of solid to liquid and pH value on adsorption were discussed.The infrared spectroscopy before and after adsorption were analyzed and compared.The results show that the adsorption properties of Cu2+ by rice straw fiber mainly is a physical adsorption. At the same time, a very small amount of chemical adsorption exists in the adsorption process. Rice straw fiber, for Cu2+, has fast and good adsorption properties, and has better adsorption effect especially for Cu2+ of low concentration; the influence of the initial pH value on adsorption properties of rice straw fiber is large, ambient temperature bas less effect on the adsorption properties of rice straw fibers; and when the solid-liquid ratio of 7.5mg/L, the initial pH value is 5, and the adsorption priperties of rice straw to Cu2+ reach the best. 

      Study on correlation among cashmere morphological structure
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  18-21. 
      Abstract ( 363 )   PDF (933KB) ( 273 )   Save
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      The cashmere morphological structure including the cashmere diameter,the scale height and the percent of the scale ring are measured with an optics microscope for the cashmere in Ali. The distributions for the cashmere diameter with the scale height, the cashmere diameter with the percent of scale ring, the cashmere scale height with the percent of scale ring are showed respectively. The proper linear fittings are determined on the least squares method and the correlation coefficients are also computed among cashmere morphological structure. It shows that there is a larger positive correlation between the cashmere diameter and the scale height while the correlations between the percent of scale ring with the cashmere diameter and the scale height respectively are smaller negative ,. The similar correlations among cashmere morphological structure are also found in the cashmere from Alashan and Gaixian respectively. The average correlation coefficient between the cashmere diameter and the scale height is 0.5414,the average correlation coefficients between the percent of scale ring, the cashmere diameter and the scale height are -0.2288 and -0.2170 respectively from above three areas.

      surface modification and performance characterization of carbon fibers
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  22-26. 
      Abstract ( 417 )   PDF (1229KB) ( 378 )   Save
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      In order to improve the interface performanceof carbon fibers and resin matrix, by using T300 carbon fiber as raw material, the surface of the carbon fiber was modified by low-temperature plasma technology under the condition of air. By the orthogonal test analysis, the best solution of low-temperature plasma is concluded. Field emission scanning electron microscopy (SEM) observations show that the carbon fiber surfaces become uneven and have obvious detachment phenomenon after modification. Meanwhile, the surface roughness increases. Fourier infrared spectrum (FTIR) test and analysis show that the carbon fiber surfaces have new functional groups such as the -CH2-0H and the -COH after low-temperature plasma treatment. By the plasma treatment, the tensile strength of carbon fiber is reduced, friction properties are improved and the surface wettability is increased. It facilitates the combination of fibers and resins in the preparation of carbon fiber composite materials as well as the preparation of carbon fiber composite materials.

      Ultrasonic assisted cotton/polyester blended fibers quantitative analysis
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  27-31. 
      Abstract ( 446 )   PDF (1140KB) ( 127 )   Save
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      In order to improve the detection efficiency and shorten the detection time of blended fibers quantitative chemical analysis in the fiber inspection industry, ultrasonic technology was applied in dissolution of cotton polyester blended fiber quantitative chemical analysis. The factors affected the ultrasonic assisted dessolution process were discussed, which are ultrasonic frequency, time and solution temperature. The purpose is to provide support for ultrasonic assisted dissolution in the application of quantitative analysis field. The experimental results show that ultrasonic assisted dissolution employed in cotton polyester blended fiber quantitative chemical analysis can effectively shorten the dissolution  time and improve the detection efficiency; it can be a good alternative to conventional dissolution methods; and it can meet the testing accuracy with ultrasonic assisted dissolution under the ultrasonic frequencies of 20, 28 kHz and 40 kHz. The best dissolution effect can be achieved in 30 min under the conditions of the ultrasonic frequency of 20 kHz and the dissolution temperature of solution temperature is 50°C.

      Effect of fiber mechanical properties on twisting degree of self-twist yarn
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  32-35. 
      Abstract ( 375 )   PDF (937KB) ( 272 )   Save
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      In order to study the effect of fiber mechanical properties on twisting degree of self twist yarn, and the relationship between the twist angle and fiber bending stiffness, torsional stiffness is derived from the conservation of total strain energy during the process of self-twist spinning. The formula shows that the larger bending stiffness has the smaller twist angle and the bigger torsional stiffness has the larger twist angle. So the size of the twist angle is proportional to the radio of fiber torsional stiffness and bending stiffness, namely with the ratio of fiber torsional stiffness and bending stiffness raises, twist angle increases, and the number of the self-twist twists is greater. By testing the number of the self-twist yarn twists respectively spun from ramie, polyester, acrylic and wool, the above relationship is verified and the conclusion can be drawn as: wool and acrylic are more suitable for self-twist yarn by self-twist spinning with greater self-twist number, but polyester and ramie are not suitable for textile developmtent by self-twist spinning with smaller self-twists number.

      Design principle and method of color gradient expression on double-warp double-weft jacquard fabric
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  36-41. 
      Abstract ( 337 )   PDF (2120KB) ( 200 )   Save
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      For the purpose of enriching the gradient mixed color on jacquard fabric, an innovative design method is carried out with respect to the features of jacquard fabric in which both of warp and weft play roles in expressing the final fabric color. In this method, color gradient effect on jacquard fabric is expressed on double-layer structure arranged with double warp yarn and double weft yarn through the interaction of weft and warp. This paper analyses the features of double-layer structure of jacquard fabric and the technological demand from the color gradient expression on jacquard fabric, and combines these two points under the premise of meeting the requirement of the technology by which jacquard fabric can be mass producted, in doing so, design principle and method of color gradient expression on double-warp double-weft jacquard fabric is proposed. In addition, it focuses on the design research and practice of the color card of single weft color gradient expression on fabric, the model of weave structure and an database of fabric weaves for the color card are formed, along with, the result of the practice has proved that this method is of application value, and structure of jacquard fabric designed by it can be used to develop new jacquard fabric product with color gradient effect.

      Characterization on anisotropy of fabric wrinkle recovery
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  42-47. 
      Abstract ( 681 )   PDF (1403KB) ( 223 )   Save
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      Aiming to the research on the anisotropy of fabric wrinkle recovery, the relationship between the wrinkle recovery angle and the orientation angle of sample to find out a more reasonable method to evaluate the fabric wrinkle recovery property. The cotton plain and twill fabrics are selected as materials. The specimens of plain fabrics are cut from the orientation angle of 0° to 90°. The twill specimens are cut from the orientation angle of 0° to 180°. The orientation angle of both types of fabrics are in the clockwise direction and at the interval of 15°, and the warp direction is set as 0°. The wrinkle recovery angles are tested by the macine vision method. The result show that the average recovery angle of 15° and 75° orientation angles can be used to assess the property of cotton plain fabric. For the twill fabrics, the property is depended on the twill direction of the fabric. For the left inclined 120° twill fabric, it is suggest that the average recovery angle of 15°, 105° and 120° orientation angle could represent the property of face-to-face folded specimens, and the average recovery angle of 0°, 60° and 120° orientation angle could represent the property of back-to-back ones.

      Structures and electrical properties of weft-knitted flexible sensors
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  48-53. 
      Abstract ( 428 )   PDF (1462KB) ( 445 )   Save
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      By mixing the five kinds of electrical conductivity fibers, including silver-plating yarn, stainless steel wire, copper wire and copper fiber, with viscose and nylon/spandex core-spun elastic yarn, weft-knitted flexible sensors are knitted on the computerized flat knitting machine. Then the electric conductivity of flexible sensors was tested at different wale and course to discuss the structure and electrical properties of the sensors. The results show the conducting fibers areknittable; by the measuring data of local resistance, it is almost in conformity with the resistance hexagon model, which is applied to the five kinds of conductive fibers and be better used in the theoretical analysis; thus it can guide to develop better weft-knitted flexible sensors with reasonable price and excellent performance.

      Performance of curtains fabric with flame-retardant and anti ultraviolet composite function
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  54-58. 
      Abstract ( 320 )   PDF (1235KB) ( 230 )   Save
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      To investigate the relation between the fabric properties and composite interweaving process. To explore the relationship between combustion performance and anti-ultraviolet performance with the different weft interleaving, the combustion experiment, UPF values of the interweave fabrics are tested. Research shows that three kinds of functional fibers in combination acn improve the flame retardant performance and ultraviolet resistance  of the fabrics.The content of flame retardant acrylic fabric has a non-linear relationship with the combustion performance of fabrics. When the insertion ratio of flame retardant acrylic fabric to anti  ultraviolet polyester is 1:1, the fabric has the best flame retardant properties, and with no drip. When the content of honeycomb anti-ultraviolet polyester in fabric is 15.69%-35.3% , the content of transmittance (UVA) was negatively related to the content of honeycomb anti ultraviolet polyester, and when the content of honeycomb anti ultraviolet polyester in fabric is over 15.69% , the content of UPF was non-linear positively correlated with the content of honeycomb anti-ultraviolet polyester.When the insertion ratio of flame retardant acrylic fiber and honeycomb anti-ultraviolet polyester is 1:3, the fabric the best anti-UV properties.

      Aesthetics featres and evolution of Kesi art  in Song Dynasty
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  59-65. 
      Abstract ( 873 )   PDF (2123KB) ( 245 )   Save
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      Based on digital acquisition, the color card of each work is obtained to resent the adwthetic features of the art of Kesi in Song Dynasty. The color card is implanted into pattern and then the digital proportion of hue, purity and bueghtness is calculated according to their distribution on the color graph.The rules of color application in terms of design, ink and pattern is analyzed in accordance to the aesthetic theory in Song Dynasty and some aesthetic features in the inner relationship between extravagant and ezquisite style and elegant and quiet style are summarized. The pater concludes that with the influence of ethics and neo-confucianism, and the co-existence of above mentioned two styles, literati stylization aesthetic tendency became the main trend and gradually evolved form grandness to quietness and freshness, showing the tendency of gradual diluteness of color.

      Influence of molecular structure of aliphatic dicarboxylic ester monomers on sizing properties of aliphatic-aromatic water-soluble copolyesters
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  66-71. 
      Abstract ( 495 )   PDF (1466KB) ( 139 )   Save
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      In order to study the influence of molecular structure of aliphatic dicarboxylic ester (ADE) monomers on sizing properties of aliphatic-aromatic water-soluble copolyesters, ADE monomers with various carbon chain length were chosen to prepare aliphatic-aromatic water-soluble copolyesters with different ester structures by transesterification-polycondensation. Then the copolyesters were blended with hydrolyzed starch to size polyester/cotton (65/35) warp yarns. The performance of the sized yarns was evaluated in terms of tensile strength, elongation, abrasion-resistance and the amount of hairiness. The results show that carbon chain length of ADE monomers has great effect on sizing properties of water-soluble copolyesters. The copolyester synthesized by dimethyl malonate (DMM) as aliphatic monomers exhibits better sizing properties than the other water-soluble polyesters. Compared with unsized yarns, the yarns sized by hydrolyzed starch the copolyester synthesized by DMM has tensile strength increased by 45.72% while the tensile elongation is decreased by only 11.73%. The abrasion number of the sized yarns is almost doubled and the hairiness amount of the yarns is decreased to a large extent. In addition, the biodegradability of the copolyester synthesized by DMM is much better than that of pure aromatic water-soluble polyester.

      Research on low damage and temperature dyeing performance of superfine wool
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  72-75. 
      Abstract ( 298 )   PDF (968KB) ( 295 )   Save
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      In order to establish low-damage dyeing technology for superfine wool fiber, low temperature dyeing aid Miralan LTD was studied. The influences of the temperature, time and PH value in the dyeing process on fiber bundles, K/S value and color fastness were investigated by single-factor test, and optimum dyeing conditions suitable for low damage Lanasol CE series dyes process of superfine wool were obtained as follows: dyeing temperature of superfine wool was 90 ℃, processing time was 70 min and PH value kept at 4.0. The experimental results showed that the combination of the dyeing agent Miralan LTD and reactive dyes Lanasol CE, not only has realized the low temperature dyeing of wool fiber, but also has better dyeing percentage and simple machining technology; at the same time, the breaking strength was improved, and the wool fiber’s damage was reduced. Under this processing condition, exhaustion rate of superfine wool was high than 98 %, levelness is good and color fastness reach grade 4 above, which can satisfy the requirement of the subsequent process.

      Cold pad-batch pretreatment and dyeing of cotton knits
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  76-82. 
      Abstract ( 850 )   PDF (1631KB) ( 411 )   Save
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      In order to promote open-width cold pad-batch process of cotton knits, a novel low temperature bleaching compound additive Texbleach DZ-1 was applied to cold pad-batch pretreatment process of cotton knits. Influences of the dosage of Texbleach DZ-1, caustic soda, hydrogen peroxide and batching time on fabric whiteness were studied and the optimized process conditions were determined. Then cold pad-batch dyeing of bleached fabric was carried out with Argazol CBM reactive dyes. The results showed that the whiteness and wettability of fabric treated by cold pad-batch pretreatment using Texbleach DZ-1 is similar to those by  conventional high temperature and conventional cold pad-batch pretreatment process, while the strength loss is obviously reduced. Under the same dosage of Argazol CBM reactive dyes, the fabric dyed by cold pad-batch dyeing process has the same yield color, fixation and fastness, which pretreated by the above three different kinds of pretreatment processes, it shows the improvement of color depth and fixation of cotton knits dyed by cold pad-batch dyeing method compared with exhausted dyeing method.

      Quantum chemistry study on photostability of two hemicyanine fluorescent dyes
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  83-90. 
      Abstract ( 631 )   PDF (1748KB) ( 232 )   Save
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      On the basis of enhancing photostability of fluorescent dyes for textile, two self-prepared hemicyanine dyes are involved in the research process. After the dyeing process of acrylic fabrics, light fastness of dyed fabrics was explored. Photodegradation tests of aqueous solution of two dyes were also carried out, thus quantitative degradation rate constants were obtained. By density frontier theory study, the optimized geometry parameters and charge distributions of two hemicyanine fluorescent dye cations were obtained. By calculating the frontier molecular orbitals and interactions with various forms of oxygen, this work tried to give explanations for former photofading performance of two dyes. It is proved that hemicyanine dye 1,3,3-trimethyl-trans-2-[p-(N,N-Diethyl)-amino-styryl]-N-methyl indolinium chlorate has better performance in light stability than trans-4-[p-(N,N-Diethyl)-amino-styryl]-N-ethyl pyridinium bromide, which demonstrates good agreement in calculating and experimental results, indicating the mothod can be used as theoretical basis for judgment of similar problems.

      Effect of yarn density and dyeing vat on the dye uptake of indigo
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  91-94. 
      Abstract ( 664 )   PDF (945KB) ( 197 )   Save
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      In order to grasp the dyeing properties of the indigo, promote success rate of the production, and calculate the cost of the dyeing process, two groups of experiment were carried out in the rope dyeing machine, effect of yarn density on the dye uptake of indigo and effect of dyeing VAT on the dye uptake of indigo. The yarns were impregnated with dyeing solutions for 26s at 30oC, and oxidized for 75s,the pressure was 7.0 MPa. The dye-uptake of the drying sample yarns were tested and analyzed. The results show that,when the dosage is: indigo 2.0g/L, caustic soda 3.0g/L, sodium hyposulfite 1.32g/L, pH 11.88,oxidation-reduction potential -785mV, electrical conductivity 64.2μS/cm, the dye-uptake reduced with the increasing of the yarn density. Under the same depth, the dye uptake is inversely proportional to the square root of the yarn density .The dye-uptake increased with the increasing of the dyeing VAT, but the growth rate decreased.

      Anti-wrinkle and antibacterial composite finishing of cotton fabric with chistosan and butanetetracarboxylic acid
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  95-100. 
      Abstract ( 318 )   PDF (1431KB) ( 280 )   Save
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      H2O2 and CH3COOH were used to degrade chitosan(CTS), several CTS samples with different molecular mass were obtained, including 380000, 200000, 144000, 92 000, 72000, 32000, 11000, and 4000. These CTS samples were respectively used to treat cotton fabric together with butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA). Wrinkle recovery angle(WRA), Tearing strength rate(TSR), whiteness index(WI) and antibacterial rate of S.aureus of the composite finished fabrics were tested. Effect of CTS molecular mass and concentration on the anti-winkle and antibacterial properties were discussed. The results show that the WRA of cotton fabric is 264.0 °, warp TSR is 77.3 %, weft TSR is 63.5 %, WI is 68.3 and antibacterial rate of S.aureus is 68.7 %, which treated with CTS(molecular mass 200000, 1.0 g?L-1) and BTCA by one-bath process. When 10.0 g?L-1 antibacterial agent AGP was used together with CTS and BTCA, the antibacterial rate of finished cotton fabric is 98.5 %, WRA is 263.0 °, warp TSR is 83.5 %, weft TSR is 76.4 %,and WI is 69.1.

      Influence of air gaps on thermal and evaporative resistances of fabric system
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  101-106. 
      Abstract ( 550 )   PDF (1711KB) ( 324 )   Save
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      To investigate the effect of air gaps located between human skin and fabric on the heat and moisture transfer properties of fabric system, the sweating hot plate was used to test the thermal and evaporative insulation of fabric. The research used a spacer with different thickness to simulate different air gaps, in such way, the heat and moisture transfer through human skin-air gaps-fabric was quantificational tested. The experimental results show that the thermal and evaporative insulation of fabric system increase with the air gaps firstly, and then go down when the air gaps reaches 12mm, after that they go up again. Although the fabric thickness influence the thermal and evaporative insulation of fabric system, the experiment proves that the influence is more significant for air gaps under clothing. Taking into account of the fit and warm properties of clothing, the allowance of chest for cold protective clothing is suggested to be 6-8 cm.

      Manufacturing skills of Nantong traditional folk newborn baby suit
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  107-111. 
      Abstract ( 870 )   PDF (1121KB) ( 237 )   Save
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      The production skill of folk newborn baby suits in Nan tong Jian Su Province will disappear in the future. It has been analyzed in the style feature of the typical monk collar shirt and studied in its manufacturing skills. The materials and tools has been introduced, such as:fabric, thread, tacking bag, woods’ ruler. The craft manufacturing skill of shirts and the pants of the suit has been recorded , recovered, analyzed and researched. Be based on the studing above, though on spot investigation in combination with folk documents and annals of local folk, it points that the monk baby suits show us full Nantong “LangShan” brand cultural features, such as needlework culture, full chi forbidden, ware pattern cutting, families fabric and so on.

      Structure optimization design of auxiliary nozzle for air-jet loom
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  112-117. 
      Abstract ( 719 )   PDF (1717KB) ( 198 )   Save
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      In order to find optimal structure of the auxiliary nozzle in an air-jet loom to improve its comprehensive performance, a 3-D model of the auxiliary nozzle is developed, and the CFD software Fluent is used to digitally simulate the flow field of the auxiliary nozzle for weft insertion. When the supple air pressure is 0.3Mpa, the velocity distributions curve of the flow centerline at the exit of the auxiliary nozzle, the inlet mass flow rate, and the velocity distributions section which is 40mm from the exit of the auxiliary nozzle are obtained. In order to verify the optimal structure design, the weft insertion stability, the energy consumption and the maximum flow rate are used to synthetically analyze. Results show that the single-hole auxiliary nozzle with a 6 degree angle performs best which increases the maximum flow rate and the weft insertion stability by 4.4% and 36.7%; the rectangle-hole auxiliary nozzle with a length-width ratio of about 3.3 which improves the weft insertion stability by 7.3% is the optimal model; according to the above three indicators, the optimal model of 2-hole auxiliary nozzle under the corresponding indicator is obtained for different requirements of the actual weft insertion.

      Novel cut pile mechanism on tufting carpet loom
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  118-123. 
      Abstract ( 544 )   PDF (1270KB) ( 218 )   Save
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      According to the principle of cut pile,a new kind of cut pile mechanism on tufting carpet loom was proposed.Based on the vectorial relations,the mathematical model of the hook-knife cut pile mechanism was established,which was used to make the kinematic analysis.Using the software MATLAB,the displacement, velocity and acceleration of each component were obtained and the motion law was given, especially the change curve of the loop-hamulus about its the angular displacement, angular velocity and angular acceleration curve.The method is simple and accurate, which calculate quickly and have considerably practical significance in the design of the cut pile mechanism on tufting carpet loom.

      Comprehensive analysis of motion accuracy for spatial linkage weft insertion mechanism with clearance and dimensional errors
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  124-129. 
      Abstract ( 297 )   PDF (1491KB) ( 216 )   Save
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      Non continual- contacting model and the use of the equivalent length theory is introduced in this article. Considering the manufacturing error and the wear or assembly clearance , Kinetic models are established for the spatial four-bar mechanism and the planar four-bar mechanism of the spatial linkage weft insertion mechanism based on the probabilistic analysis method and non-continual contacting theory. The movement simulation and related curve is carried by the calculation and simulation module of MATLAB. The influence of size error and clearance to the mechanism motion output is analyzed in detail. When considering the component error and clearance between the kinematic pair ,the output error of sword head is more obvious than considering a factor only, the maxima error is near the maximum point of the speed, which indicates that the influence of clearance and component error in high-speed mechanism is particularly serious, The results of this study can provide reference for the research of motion accuracy of spatial four bar weft insertion mechanism.

      Analysis on hot-structure coupling of stenter clip using ANSYS
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  130-135. 
      Abstract ( 477 )   PDF (1400KB) ( 185 )   Save
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       Stenter clip as an important part of a clamping fabric in a printing and dyeing industry, its structure form and material performance directly affects the effect of clamping fabric. Analyzed the heated situation of clip, established clip model, and determined the clip suffered load, then did the heat - structure coupling analysis on the clip using the ANSYS software. Obtain the transient temperature field and stress field distribution overall clip, and with the increase of heating time, clip reach steady state in about 12000 seconds. Get the different thermal expansion and the difference value of thermal expansion on the blade, gap shape between blade and baseplate, and thermal stress between shaft and hole under different fit between shaft and hole, which provide the basis for the choice of the fit modes of shaft and hole. For the main body of different material, get the different difference value of thermal expansion on the blade, which provides the evidence for the selection of main body’s materials. Analyze the factors of the thermal deformation on the blade, provide the basis for grinding blade shape.

      Yarn-dyed fabric defect detection based on Gaussian back substitution image decomposition
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  136-141. 
      Abstract ( 582 )   PDF (1778KB) ( 177 )   Save
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      Focusing on the problems of low detection efficiency, poor stability and slow processing speed of traditional artificial fabric detection, a patterned fabric defect detection method based on alternating direction method with Gaussian back substitution (ADMG) image decomposition was presented. Firstly, histogram equalization as preprocessing was first conducted for the sampled images to eliminate the influence of background texture of fabric defects. Secondly, ADMG image decomposition method based on combination of the total variation norm and semi-norm in negative Sobolev space was employed, the patterned fabric images could be decomposed into defect structure u and texture structure v. Finally the defect structure u was segmented by using a two-dimensional Otsu thresholding, the fabric defects could be identified. The experimental results demonstrate that method based on ADMG image decomposition is feasible and effective in patterned fabric defect detection contained star-, box- and dot- patterned fabric images and satisfactory identification results could be achieved.

      Lace retrieval method based on improved texture feature
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  142-154. 
      Abstract ( 279 )   PDF (1824KB) ( 190 )   Save
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      Traditional lace pattern retrieval mainly relies on the manual retrieval and text retrieval, while the text retrieval marks image by language description which leads to the unstable annotation information, low efficiency and unreliable retrieval results. This work marked image by texture pattern feature. A lace retrieval algorithm containing classification selection and classifier fusion through hierarchy match was proposed, and it made up the deficiency of the single matching method. Three image-based methods, such as gray level co-occurrence matrix, gray level-gradient co-occurrence matrix, local binary pattern operator, were fused by means of geometry features and invariant moments for a match-by-level respectively. Experimental results indicate that the performance of fusion-based method is better than any single method and it can achieve the lace retrieval promisingly as improving the reliability and accuracy of image retrieval effectively.

      Determination and 3-D modeling of weft knitted jacquard quilted fabric with concave surface
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  148-154. 
      Abstract ( 406 )   PDF (1597KB) ( 156 )   Save
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      Definition and verification of cluster brand based on customer view
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  155-162. 
      Abstract ( 462 )   PDF (2150KB) ( 165 )   Save
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      Domestic scholars suggested the term of cluster brand, its definition varies largely. This article tried to give a universally acceptable definition. The article pointed out that a brand has two elements: brand symbol, and its associations and meanings which are the essence of a brand. The authors argued that a cluster brand existence needs two necessary conditions: a cluster existing and recognized, the cluster named, but they are not sufficient. Only the cluster name is memorized in targeting customers’ minds and the associations are established and can be activated, then the cluster brand really exists. Due to the cluster and cluster brand are named always in the same combination word form of “geographical name + industry name”, this article made a detail analyzing about the multiple meanings of the combination name, tried to distinguish the same word form’s different meanings, then the article defined the concept of cluster brand. Using free association method, taking "Hangzhou women's dress" as tested cluster brand, and "Wenzhou women dress" as a reference, the results showed “Hangzhou women dress” has rich associations and is full of meanings, and the associations of “Wenzhou women dress” are less and meaningless, which is indirectly verified the definition of cluster brand of this paper.

      Application and web formation of synthetic fiber in wet-laid nonwoven
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  163-170. 
      Abstract ( 360 )   PDF (2277KB) ( 563 )   Save
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      Wet-laid is derived from traditional paper industry and is one of the important processes of it, wet-laid technology has been applied to the fields of nonwovens by improving the production process. With the increasing demand of products, synthetic fiber is being widely used in production since the traditional natural fiber can not meet the technical requirements of functional nonwoven products. With a variety of performance and structural advantages, synthetic fiber has gradually expanded the scope of application in the paper and wet-laid nonwovens. However, the hydrophobic properties of synthetic fiber, dispersion, characterization methods, the matching process, the development and application of new products etc. have been restricting the expansion of wet laid nonwovens. This paper mainly introduces the similarities and differences between wet-laid with synthetic fiber used in papermaking and nonwoven industries , several commonly used dispersion methods and characterization of synthetic fiber are also analyzed in this paper.

      Influence factors and evaluation methods of stored thermal energy in firefighters protective clothing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(06):  171-176. 
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      The stored thermal energy in firefighter protective clothing is one of the most important factors to produce skin burn injury in low heat flux environment, and reasonable evaluation of which can improve the accuracy of the research on thermal protective performance of firefighters’ clothing. The developments of stored thermal energy in firefighter’s turnout suit in low heat flux environment were reviewed, the cause of stored thermal energy and its negative impacts on main parts of body burn injury were analyzed, the experimental evaluation methods were summarized including test apparatus, test methods and assessment methods, and the clothing and environmental influences of stored thermal energy were summarized. At last, based on the analysis above, the developing trends of the study on stored thermal energy in firefighters’ protective clothing were predicted.