Table of Content

15 May 2016, Volume 37 Issue 05

Previous Issue    Next Issue

Moisture adsorption property of rice-straw fiber

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  1-5. 

Abstract ( 274 )   PDF (1025KB) ( 296 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to study the moisture absorption and liberation properties of rice-straw fiber,the morphological structure of rice-straw fiber was characterized by scanning electron mircroscope,the absorption and liberation properties of rice-straw fiber,flax fiber and cotton fiber were tested in the standard normal atmospheric conditions.The moisture absorption and desorption properties of rice-straw fiber were tested.Their regression curves of moisture absorption and liberation were drawed,and based on it,the regression equations of moisture absorption and desorption velocity were derived.The hygroscopity of rice-straw fiber was analyzed and compared with flax fiber and cotton fiber. The results show that,the lengthwise of the rice-straw fiber has a large number of grooves and it’s specific surface area is large.The moisture absorption and liberation of rice-straw fiber are very good.The moisture absorption and liberation regain rate of rice-straw fiber are 9.3% and 10.35% respectively.The moisture absorption and liberation rate of three fibers decay with exponential curve.The moisture absorption and liberation rate of flax fiber is the quickest,rice-straw fiber in the second,and cotton fiber is the slowest.

Influence of precursors ratios on crystalline and photocatalytic performance of SnO2/TiO2 nanofibers

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  6-10. 

Abstract ( 586 )   PDF (1270KB) ( 382 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to improve the photocatalytic property of SnO2-based nano-materials, by means of adjusting the ratio between precursors of stannic chloride and tetrabutyltitanate, the SnO2/TiO2 composite nanofibers with different content of TiO2 doping were fabricated by adjusting the ratio between precursors of stannic?chloride and tetrabutyl titanate. The morphologies of composite nanofibers were observed by scanning electron microscope, the structures were characterized by X-ray diffractometer, and the photocatalytic activities were measured by the photocatalytic?degradation of methylene-blue?liquid.The study revealed that the surface of nanofibers appears smooth from rough, along with the transition of ratio between stannic?chloride and tetrabutyl titanate from 2.5:1 and 2:1 to 3:2. When the ratio of precursors is 3:2, the nanofibers showed both rutile titanium?dioxide and anatase titanium?dioxide phases besides rutile tin dioxide phase.Furthermore,the photocatalytic activity of SnO2/TiO2 composite nanofibers with precursors ratio of 3:2 achieved good result as degradation efficiency reached 79.5% after 10 min irradiation.

Determination of polyester molecular weight and its distribution by advanced polymer chromatography and laser light scattering detector

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  11-16. 

Abstract ( 537 )   PDF (1432KB) ( 507 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

Coupled advanced polymer chromatography with multi-angle laser light scattering (APC-MALLS), the novel method for measuring the molecular weight and molecular weight distribution of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) was developed successfully. In this measuring system, hexafluoroisopropanol containing sodium trifluoroacetate was chosen as solvent in which several different intrinsic viscosity of PET could be dissolved effectively and quickly at room temperature, it can also be used as an eluent. The effect of the sample concentration and flow rate were discussed. There is no need to set a calibration by the use of standard samples, and the absolute molecular weight and molecular weight distribution of PET were acquired in several minutes under the optimum condition. Comparing with the conventional GPC method, such an efficient test system can greatly shorten the testing time, simplify the test procedures and presents the excellent repeatability. The number-average molecular weight of the samples（intrinsic viscosity：0.685, 0.884, 1.038 dL/g）were 22 700, 32 000, 41 600 g/mol and the molecular weight distribution were 1.62、1.56、1.55.

Stucture and performance of high temperature resistant fibrous filters with gradient structure

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  17-22. 

Abstract ( 379 )   PDF (1645KB) ( 390 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to study effect of process on structure characteristics and filtration performance, the samples of gradient filters consist with PPS fibers and PTFE microfibers were made. The relationships between the process (gran weight of microfiber layers and the hydroentangling energy) and structure characteristics were discussed, and the quadratic models also have been established. The results show that the gram weight of PTFE microfiber layers has a significant influence on structure and filtration performance of the samples, the samples has model pores size is 20.22μm and the filtration efficiency is 63.41% for 2.05μm when the PTFE microfiber layers gram weight is 49±3.8g/m2. As the PTFE microfiber layers gram weight increases to 181±12.5g/m2, the model pores size reduced to 12.52μm, and filtering efficiency of the 2.05μm particle increases to 91.87%. In addition, the results also found that, the filtration efficiency and filtration resistance increased with the hydroentangling energy in the range of 3738kJ/Kg~8755kJ/Kg. Furthermore, Quadratic models have high degree of confidence intervals, which means that the models is good for the process design of the high temperature resistant fibrous filters with a graded structure.

Low-damage carding technology of superfine wool

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  23-27. 

Abstract ( 204 )   PDF (1040KB) ( 233 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to solve the problems of difficulty processing and carding damage of the superfine wool, the paper analyzed the causes and solutions to thecarding damage. Through the measurement of fiber length, the number of neps, noil ratio in work space of combing, the carding process parameters were optimized, the optimal carding processing conditions were determined by TEAM-3 and orthogonal experiments as following: 2# gauge, 3# speed ratio, the tooth density of cylinder wire cloth and doffer wire cloth was 60.7 teeth/cm2 and 62.5 teeth/cm2, respectively, and top produced was 20g/m. The experimental results showed that the average loss of fiber length of the superfine wool tops derived from the optimal processing wasless than 0.5 mm. The number of neps was also decreased and yarn quality was improved.

Distribution of fiber left ends in carded sliver

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  28-31. 

Abstract ( 322 )   PDF (910KB) ( 277 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to further explore the fiber fistribution and simulate the fiber arrangement in the sliver, the assumption that fibers left ends were uniformly distributed along the sliver axis in previous researchs is required to verify by any experiment method.Yarn properties is depended upon fiber arrangmnt in the yarn. In previous researches, it was generally assumed that the fibers arrangement in the sliver was random, and the fiber left ends were uniformly distributed along the sliver axis. In this work, an experiment method was used to analyze actual distribution of fiber left ends in the sliver and verify the hypothesis. It can be seen from the results that the hypothesis that fiber left ends arrangement in the sliver were uniformly distributed is reasonable. In addition, the result also indicate that the geometrical natures such as fiber length and linear density have no significant effect on the distribution of fiber left heads in the sliver, as well as the fiber type and the length of carded sliver segment, which provides the basis for predicting sliver properties.

Prediction model on twist shrindage of wool yarn

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  32-36. 

Abstract ( 310 )   PDF (1261KB) ( 382 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to improve the precision of wool yarn specifications and the design efficiency of wool spinning technology, a wool yarn twist shrinkage prediction model was established by theoretical deduce and experimental reasoning. Based on the geometry model of wool yarn cross-section, mathematical equations among twist shrinkage and relative factors were educed step by step. The results show that wool yarn twist shrinkage prediction value can be easily obtained by providing some factors such as wool yarn linear density, yarn twist, fiber mean diameter, and fiber mean specific density. The predicted shrinkage value is used in calculation of yarn linear density, in selection of twist change gears, the deviation ratios of wool yarn linear density and twist were fall within the prescriptive scope of FZ/T22001-2010 “Worsted Woven Wool Yarn”.

Grass cloth with traditional characteristic produced by modern technology

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  37-41. 

Abstract ( 489 )   PDF (1067KB) ( 489 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

Ring spun ramie yarn and rapier-loom are used to produce grass cloth, imstead of traditional hand-made yarn and hand-loom, for the purpose of decreasing the labor cost and increasing the production dfficiency as well as improving the fabric quality. With 27.8 tex ring spun ramie yarns as warp yarns 90.9 tex hand-made traditional yarns as weft yarns, the grass cloth with traditional characteristic can be produced by modern rapier looms. Compared with the fabric made by traditional way, the grass cloth produced by this modern method has smooth and straight edge and surface, the production cost is only 1/3, and the fabric width can be widen up to 150cm. The comparison and test results show that the features of traditional hanmade grass cloth, such as appearace and mechanical performance can be reatined in the grass colth woven by modern technology.

Optimization of loom speed by warp sectionalization test

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  42-46. 

Abstract ( 436 )   PDF (1258KB) ( 295 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to explore the weavability variation of warp yarns in the weaving process, the warp yarns on the loom are divided into three parts: warps from back rest to the dropper, warps from the dropper to the heald, warps from the heald to the cloth-fell. Breaking strength and elongation, abrasive resistance and hairiness of the three parts of warp yarns were tested to explore the weavability variation on the loom in the weaving process. Breaking strength and elongation, abrasive resistance and hairiness under different loom speed were tested and analyzed by above-mentioned warp sectionalization test method.The test results show that compared with the warp yarns from back rest to the dropper, Breaking strength and elongation of warp yarns from the dropper to the heald decreased within 5%, the abrasive resistance of warp yarns from the dropper to the heald decreased by 15% and hairiness of warp yarns from the dropper to the heald increased by 10%. Breaking strength and elongation of warp yarns from the heald to the cloth-fell decreased within 5%, the abrasive resistance of warp yarns from the heald to the cloth-fell decreased by 25% ,short hairiness of warp yarns from the heald to the cloth-fell increased by 15%. and long hairiness of warp yarns from the heald to the cloth-fell increased by 5%.The warp properties are in decrease trend as the increase of loom speed. Moreover, when loom speed is reached to750r/min, warp properties are decreased obviously.So the loom speed for this fabric should not be set larger than 700r/min.

Influence of combination yarn number on tensile properties of Milano rib structure fabrics

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  47-50. 

Abstract ( 241 )   PDF (916KB) ( 298 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to explore the combination yarn influence on the tensile properties of the Milano rib structure. According to the combination yarn in different knitting Milano rib structure fabric in the Lone Star computerized flat knitting machine under the condition of the same materials and weaving process. Transverse and longitudinal tensile properties of fabrics tested, and fitting analyze data using Origin software, meanwhile analyze yarn carrying capacity of fabrics. It shows that the Milano rib structure fabric as composite reinforcement to meet the elasticity and stress of transverse and longitudinal the best, you should select the combination yarn in the vicinity of the intersection of elasticity and stress transverse and longitudinal intersection; fabric transverse yarn tensile strength of contribution rate is much higher than lengthwise yarns collusion strength; elasticity and stress can get the best Milano rib structure reinforcement by controlling the combination yarn under the same conditions.

Evaluation on style of  handle of polyester/cotton/bamboo pulp fiber blended and color mixtured wool-like fabrics

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  51-55. 

Abstract ( 369 )   PDF (1004KB) ( 313 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

To study the style and wool-like effect of dope-dyeing wool-like fabrics, a new kind of color mixtured wool-like fabrics which are blended with undyed cotton fiber, bamboo pulp fiber and dope-dyeing polyester fiber on a different scale as our research object. KES-F fabric evaluation system was used to investigate all the mechanical properties of the samples and handle style values of samples were calculated. Morever, how the proportion of ingredients or structure parameters impact the handle was discussed. In addition, we selected two pure wool fabrics as control, analysising the degree of correlation about the handle of samples according to gray correlative method. The results show that the dope-dyeing polyester/cotton/bamboo pulp fiber blended and color mixtured wool-like fabrics have a high gray correlation degree and similar handle with pure wool fabrics, owning strong woolly style.

Fabric defect detection algorithm research based on sparse optimization

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  56-61. 

Abstract ( 309 )   PDF (1908KB) ( 325 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

A novel fabric defect detection algorighm based on sparse optimization is proposed. Firstly, an adaptive dictionary is learned from test fabric image using L1-norm minimization method, the test fabric image is sparsely represented using the learned dictionary, and then the coefficient matrix of sparse representation is xalculated. Secondly, the abnormal coefficients are removed using optimization function, then a new image is reconstructed using the optimized coefficient matrix and the dictionary. Finally, the reconstructed image is subtracted from original test image to acquire a residual image, and then the maximum entropy threshold method is used to segment the defect region. Experimental results demonstrate that the proposed algorithm has higher detection accuracy comparing with the state of the art.

Sound absorption properties of hollow polyester reinforced rubber-based composite laminated nonwoven

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  62-67. 

Abstract ( 268 )   PDF (1571KB) ( 247 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to improve the sound absorption property of hydrogenated carbozyl nitrile rubber/single-hollow polyester composite (HF) , HF with a mass ratio of 70/30 was fabricated, then laminated the HF with the 3mm thickness hollow needle-punched hollow polyester fiber nonwoven(named NPH) which has a fabric weight of 300 g·m-2. Three kinds of laminated material HF-NPH, HF-NPH-HF, NPH-HF-NPH were fabricated and sound absorption properties were tested. For the double laminated material HF-NPH, different incident surface showed different sound absorption property. Setting the HF as incident surface could effectively improve the sound absorption property of HF-NPH in mid-low frequency, but has a poor sound absorption property in mid-high frequency. For the triple laminated material HF-NPH-HF and NPH-HF-NPH, they have excellent sound absorption property both in mid-low frequency and mid-high frequency. The effective frequency range of sound absorption coefficient more than 0.2 was broadened to 450-2500Hz, and the average absorption coefficient is greater than 0.56 in the effective frequency bandwidth. Generally, sound absorption property of NPH-HF-NPH isslightly better than that of HF-NPH-HF.

Finite element analysis on ballistic impact edge part of three-dimensional woven fabric reinforced composite

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  68-74. 

Abstract ( 372 )   PDF (2094KB) ( 334 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

Based on three dimensional machine woven enhanced composite, single cell model  was established by limited element software ABAQUS. Spread of the stress wave about bullet in three dimensional woven fabric reinforced composite was also analyzed. The bullet impact of experiment results and simulation calculation of results were compared and the eventually damage mode of three dimensional woven fabric reinforced composite and layer collection board was analyzed. The results showed that maximum stress of bullets in three-dimensional woven fabric reinforced composite stress increases with the speed of the input and reflected back and forth; after the warhead projected from three dimensional woven reinforced composite, the reinforced yarn of fracture in lower surface is rougher than it in upper surface; there was no obvious stratification phenomenon in three dimensional woven fabric reinforced composite, the graphics of finite element simulation are consistent with the actually observed damage voids.

Injouence of acid presoak on enzyme flax retting and properties of fibers

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  75-78. 

Abstract ( 554 )   PDF (1068KB) ( 330 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

Flax stem was presoaked by dilute acid and then treated with enzyme to lift permeated barrier between enzyme and substrate in flax fiber. We investigated this environmentally favorable and economical method to facilitate the flax enzyme retting. Weight loss ratio and Fiber separation degree of flax stems treated by HAC, NaH2PO4-H3PO4, H2SO4 and H3PO4 were researched. Taking reducing sugar and total sugar contents, fiber separation degree and mechanical property as indexes, the effects of acid treatment on flax enzyme retting were investigated. The flax stems that treated by 20mmol/L H2SO4 and H3PO4 and subsequently retted by enzyme released more reducing sugar and total sugar, and breaking strength of retted fibers could reached more than 150CN. Only the optimal concentration could accelerate enzyme retting.

Study on performances of  disperse dyes black slurry based on carbamide solubilization

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  79-84. 

Abstract ( 644 )   PDF (1383KB) ( 310 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to slow down the speed of disperse dyes prrcipitation after standing, 150% LB disperse dyes black slurry was used as raw material for exploring the   influence of carbamide solubilization on properties of disperse dyes black slurry at high-speed shearing dispersion. The results show that the speed of disperse dyes precipitation could be slowed down by either adding dosage of the dispersant MF and carbamide or adjusting the pH value of disperse dyes black slurry. the precipitability of the disperse dyes slurry with adding mass fraction of 50% carbamide reduces from 86.04% to 75.18% after standingsixty days. By adding mass fraction of 50% carbamide，the centrifugal stability of the three kinds of disperse dyes C.I. Disperse Orange 288、C.I. Disperse Violet 93:1 and C.I. Disperse Blue 291:3 promotes 39.9%-42.19%、29.06%-29.99% and 26.78%-27.38% ,respectively，the dye-uptake of the three disperse dyes increases 2.08%-2.19%、0.73%-1.1% and 0.72%-0.99%, respectively，and the K/S value of the textile promotes from 9.782 to 9.876；At the same time, carbamide solubilization reduces the average grain diameter of the disperse dyes.

Application of reverse micelles solvent extraction in removal and reuse of soluble reactive dyes

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  85-91. 

Abstract ( 387 )   PDF (1724KB) ( 269 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to develop the new technology for the treatment of dyeing wastewater, the anionic water soluble reactive dyes were removed and reused by the extraction method using reverse micelles in this study. The effect of concentration and structure of dyes on the dye removal were investigated, and the ionic exchange models were employed to fit the experimental data. Then the affecting factor such as pH values and salt concentration were also studied. Finally, the recovered dyes were reused for the dyeing cotton fabrics. The results showed that the reactive dyes could be removed by the extraction methods. The removal process of dyes indicated the better agreement with the ionic exchange models equations. The increased salt concentration caused the improvement of dye removal. And the pH values exhibited reverse trend. The good dyeing property was obtained for the reused dyes.

Synthesis and characterization of hydrostatic pressure-resistant flame-retardant waterborne polyurethane fabric coating agent

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  92-96. 

Abstract ( 634 )   PDF (1199KB) ( 333 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to prepare bifunctional waterborne polyurethane fabric coating agent, a series of hydrostatic pressure resistant and flame retardant water-borne polyurethane(OWPU) were synthesized by polyaddition reaction via an acetone process, in which N330 was used as macromolecular crosslinking agent, PTMG 2000 and ExolitOP550 as mixing soft segments, DMPA as hydrophilic chain extender, BDO as hard segment regulator and TDI as hard segment. The structure, thermal property and flame retardancy of prepared OWPU were characterized by FTIR, TGA and LOI. In addition, hydrostatic pressure resistant property were examined by hydrostatic pressure test.The results indicate that the incorporation of ExolitOP550 makes flame retardant performance become better, with more char residue and a increase of LOI from 21.8 to 29.0, meanwhile, the hydrostatic pressure of PU still keep above 8 kPa. Thus, a bifunctional fabric coating agent which has good flame retardant and hydrostatic pressure resistant has been manufactured.

Preparation and application of high stability sucrose polyester emulsion

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  97-103. 

Abstract ( 610 )   PDF (1653KB) ( 284 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to optimize the emulsification technology of sucrose polyester and improve the stability of the emulsion, using inverse emulsion method, the experiment studied the effects of HLB value of composite emulsifier, dosage of emulsifier, ratio of oil/water, emulsifying time, emulsifying temperature and stir speed on the sucrose polyester emulsion, and researched the stability and application of sucrose polyester emulsion also. Results show that the best emulsifying conditions as follows: the HLB value of composite emulsifier is 9.8, the dosage is 9%, ratio of oil/water is 0.5, emulsifying time is 85min, emulsifying temperature is 30 ℃, and the stir speed is 2000r/min. The sucrose polyester emulsion has high stability, good dispersibility, uniform particle size distribution, and can be long-term storaged. The sucrose polyester emulsion can reduce surface friction coefficient, attaches the fabric good softness and less impact on color change.

Rapid variant design method of sweater based on case-based reasoning

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  104-109. 

Abstract ( 277 )   PDF (1583KB) ( 260 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

Aiming at design task and the diversity of customer requirements in sweater mass customization, a method of sweater rapid variant design based on case-based reasoning is proposed. Variant regularity in sweater customization is analyzed, invariant parameters and variable parameters of case are summarized, characteristics of case attributes are further determined. Local similarities model is designed, the derivation of similarity calculation between value and value, value and range is given. The subjective weight and the objective weight are combined to form synthetic weight, which with local similarities are used to calculate global similarity of similar cases. Then, an optimal similar case with the highest global similarity is selected to implement rapid variant design. In addition, concrete measures of rapid variant design are listed. The solution to unknown instance is gotten at last. An example is used to verify the proposed method, and the results shows that the method can find the product variant design solution which satisfied customer requirements effectively.

Application of paper folding and molding in pattern desing of sweater

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  110-116. 

Abstract ( 270 )   PDF (2965KB) ( 412 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

To expand the sweater pattern design method and make the design more diversification, pattern design of sweater based on paper folding and molding was proposed. The spatial modeling, decorative and creative characteristics of the paper folding was discussed. Techniques and features of paper folding and molding were integrated into pattern design of sweater. Elements were extracted from different paper folding and molding and used in the pattern design. Knitting process and pattern samples were given. It is suggested through design practice that innovative design be conducted by applying the pattern folding and molding in pattern design of sweater. The pattern integrated traditional technology can fully show culture, artistry and aesthetic connotation of sweater. This offers certain reference for the pattern design of sweater, so as to contribute to the development and heritage of traditional crafts and culture.

Comprehensive assessment methods for women's garment fitness and comfort

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  117-123. 

Abstract ( 291 )   PDF (1568KB) ( 271 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

To obtain the proper assessment results for several garments during the experiments, the analytic hierarchy process is synthetically considered to evaluate static fitness and dynamic comfort. Four assessment indices including design style, fitness of front breast and the sides of body and back areselected. The assessment values for the static fitness are obtained by the weights of indices and the remarks from assessment experts. For dynamic comfort, the comfort from the try-on persons about eleven movements are selected in daily life as the indices, and triangular fuzzy numbers are utilized. The evaluation value can also be obtained. The best garment is able to be determined by final assessment values for static fitness and dynamic comfort. The above results provide a practical method for garment's assessment.

Shape and calculation based on frugality in structure of Tibetan Pulu robe

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  124-130. 

Abstract ( 817 )   PDF (1726KB) ( 279 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to inherit and carry forward the Tibetan costume culture and provide the reliable empirical textual research on the structure study,  the Pulu Tibetan robe edged with tiger skin which is from the Ethnic Costume Museum of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology as the research object and use double textual research method(specimen and document) as the research method. After do the data collection, mapping and structure recovery to the main structure, edging structure and facing structure of the specimen, then discover “three part body connect sleeve cross plane structure” and the special “complementary triangle insert and hem piece” structure of the specimen have the same system of “cross plane structure” of Chinese traditional costume. Through the data analysis and experiment of the specimen structure, it is concluded that the multifunctionality of Tibetan Pulu  robe shows the thrift calculation in the guide of “fabric width decide the structure of robe”.

Female body classification in Jiangsu and Zhejiang based on cross0sectional area of body

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  131-136. 

Abstract ( 770 )   PDF (1186KB) ( 261 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

To better identify the human body, the human body data of 200 females, in Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces randomly selected from the data base of Donghua University. By analyzing on the horizontal section of horizontal radius vector of Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces female human body and comparing with the walue of Japanese women, it was found that Japanese numerical classification is not suitable for Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces women. With the programming proceduers, the body sagittal, frontal shape and the shape of the horizontal section was obtained. Owing to different horizontal section form with the same ratio of horizontal radius vector, it is concluded that identification body form by ratio of horizontal radius vector is inaccurate. Their own programming procedures were used to acquire the perimeter and area by the body horizontal section, and then clustering analysis was performed with the ratio of cross-sectional area adn surrounded degree square of chest, waist and hip, the size segmentation was divided into the flat shape, middle size, and round shape.

Dynamic analysis of flexible follower conjugate cams beating-up mechanism in rapier loom

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  137-142. 

Abstract ( 401 )   PDF (1053KB) ( 375 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

The vibration of the rapier loom conjugate cam beating-up mechanism results in the sley angular acceleration deviation, reduces the weaving quality, and shortens the conjugate cam. To solve these problems, conjugate cams beating-up mechanism is reasonably simplified. Flexible follower is discretized by Rayleigh-Ritz method and the dynamic equation of flexible follower is established based on the Lagrange equations. The dynamic simulation for the beating-up mechanism with flexible follower conjugate cams is carried out by Matlab. In the process of simulation, the method of reducing the  vibration of beating up mechanism is explored by changing the structure parameters of the beating-up machanism.The simulation results show that the angular acceleration of the sley will fluctuate significantly due to the transverse vibration. A method for reducing the angular acceleration deflection and reducing vibration of mechanism is proposed by reducing the mass of the sley feet.

Analysis of overfeed control system model in open-width heat setting machine

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  143-149. 

Abstract ( 826 )   PDF (1512KB) ( 351 )   Save

References | Related Articles | Metrics

During the current geat setting process, the regulation of overfeed mostly relies on manual adjustment instead of setting up accurate model of overfeed control system and analyzing the stability of the system. As a result, the problems of low control accuracy, unstable control and difficult setting of parameters are frequently appeared. By analyzing the mechanical structure and components of the overfeed control system, the relationship between vehicle speed and overfeed was obtained, and the overfeed control system accurate model was established. System stable constraints and marginally stable gain were respectively obtained by Routh Stability Criterion and Root Locus method, which can stabilize the system and realize the automatic control of overfeed. Test results show that the overfeed control system model is correct and the method for stability analysis is effective. The accurate quantitative control of the owerfeed.

Computer recognition and simulation  of fabric color from matching to standard color chip

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  150-154. 

Abstract ( 746 )   PDF (1381KB) ( 553 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

To reduce the errors of fabric color caused by light and experience when measured by human eyes, a color recognition and simulation methods for automatically matching fabric color with special standard color card was put forward. This method is developed based on computer vision and image analysis technique, and fabric color automatic registration system for 1 925 Pantone TCX color swatches was realized. The method used the scanner to acquire Pantone TCX color scan images, and then extracted effective color characteristic information from color image for constructing database of color image feature.Color layered model and registration model of chromatic value and Pantone TCX color card based on "one to one" support vector machine (SVM) were designed. After optimization and implement training of color identifying for SVM model parameters, the accuracy is 96.89%. Using 296 previously unknown samples for verification, accuracy is 98.85%. This would provide a reference tool for objective, fast color measurement and color of digital simulation.

Cross-regional development characteristics of textile and clothing enterprises and its influencing factors

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  155-159. 

Abstract ( 373 )   PDF (1340KB) ( 340 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

From the mobility of labor force, this paper adopted logic regression model to analyze the characteristics and determinants of cross-regional development of textile and clothing enterprises by extending expected profit function in order to explore the micro-factors of industry transfer and agglomeration. We used the micro-data of 185 public enterprises and their subsidiaries as samples. The results of empirical analysis present that larger enterprises with higher technical level are more likely to implement cross-regional strategy. Different from production units, location choices of R&D units are inclined to be located in cites with higher factor costs, greater market size and thriving service industry to acquire high skilled professionals and information. Higher spatial stickiness and lock-in effect of high-skilled labor accelerate industry transfer and factor segmentation.

Optimization mdel of fshionable aparel dal-channel spply cain ntwork based on presale mode

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  160-166. 

Abstract ( 1003 )   PDF (1704KB) ( 483 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

In order to reduce the inventory, the presale strategy was introduced into dual-channel supply chain network of fashionable apparel. The demand function in presale stage was designed and the influence on demand in normal sale stage of demand in presale stage under the strategy was analyzed. Then the mixed integer programming model of dual-channel supply chain network which contains the manufacturers, distributors and retailers was proposed based on production cost, transportation cost, storage cost, advertisement cost and so on, and solved with Lingo 11.0. Finally, through the example simulation, it was verified that the presale strategy has favorable effect on demand prediction in normal sale stage and can effectively reduce the inventory cost and shortage loss. By making further sensitivity analysis to the free rider coefficient based on the numerical simulation, the results show that the overall revenue of supply chain continuously decreases as the free rider coefficient increases.

Development of unidirectional water-transfer fabrics

Journal of Textile Research. 2016, 37(05):  167-172. 

Abstract ( 864 )   PDF (1676KB) ( 578 )   Save

Related Articles | Metrics

From the perspective of differential capillary effect and wetting yonsure effect, the principle of unidirectional water-transfer in textiles was reviewed. Manufacturing method of unidirectional water-transfer can be divided into chemical method and structural design method. The advantages and limitations of the methods were compared. The main influencing factors of water-transfer performance, namely, chemical factors and physical factors were also reviewed. By controlling these factors, excellent unidirectional water-transfer properties through the fabric thickness could bi achieved. The limitations of conventional testing method was discussed on water-transfer and through a nowel testing method (cimparatively-MMT) was introduced. The current problems in unidirectional water-transfer textiles are believed to be solved by the study of mechanism, preparation method and testing method. Finally, the practical applications of unidirectional water-transfer textiles were included.