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Table of Content

    15 October 2016, Volume 37 Issue 10
    • Filtration property of chitosan-modified electrospun polysulfone fibrous membrane for dyes
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  1-7. 
      Abstract ( 390 )   PDF (1863KB) ( 133 )   Save
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      In order to improving poor wettability, mechanical property and rejection rate to water soluble dyes, the electrospun PSF fibrous membrane was padding with 2%-0.4% and 2%-0.48% chitosan solution cross-linked by glutaraldehyde. The wettability, mechanical property, and filtration property to disperse blue 2BLN and weak acid blue N-RL with dead-end filtration method under constant pressure 0.1MPa of electrospun PSF fibrous membrane before and after treatment were studied . The result showed that the wettability and mechanical property of electrospun PSF fibrous membrane have significantly improved after treatment. It also showed that the untreated and 2%-0.4% fibrous membranes had high rejection rate to disperse blue 2BLN which were all above 94%, and low rejection rate to weak acid blue N-RL which were all under 35%, but both of them had high filtration flux. However, the 2%-0.48% fibrous membrane had much higher rejection rate to disperse blue 2BLN and weak acid blue N-RL, was 99.5% and 92.4%, respectively, but the filtration flux was decreased greatly.

      Effect of stearic acid and assisted air flow on polypropylene melt differential electrospinning process
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  8-12. 
      Abstract ( 380 )   PDF (1141KB) ( 194 )   Save
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      In order to obtain refined nanofibers, polypropylene(PP) melt was electrospun into fibers by adding stearic acid on a selfmade melt differential electrospinning unit, The effects of stearic acid content on PP fiber diameter were discussed,At the same time the airflow speed of the pneumatic convulsions device for fiber drawing were explored. The result showed that PP fibers obviously thining as the addition of stearic acid was 2%-10% by mass fraction and the spinning temperature was 260℃; When the stearic acid mass fraction is 4%, fiber diameters are relatively the finest. Fiber diameter significantly thining when going into the air velocity increased from 13 m/s to 29 m/s(Maximum speed is 29m/s). the produced PP fiber had the diameter generally below 500 nm and the average diameter of 420 nm as the mass fraction of stearic acid was 4% and the air velocity was 29m/s.

      Hydrophilic modification of polypropylene fibers prepared by melt electrospinning
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  13-18. 
      Abstract ( 281 )   PDF (1367KB) ( 241 )   Save
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      For the hydrophilic modification of isotactic polypropylene (PP), PP/TWEEN20 blends were mixed via a co-rotating twin screw microcompounder, then the blends were electrospun to fibers. The PP/TWEEN20 electrospun fibers were performed by Attenuated Total Reflection Fourier-Transform Infrared (ATR FT-IR) Spectroscopy, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS) and Contact Angle Measurements. The thermodynamics of electrospun fibers was measured by Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) analysis. FT-IR spectrums indicated PP had been blended with surfactant TWEEN20. After blending with surfactant TWEEN20, the contact angle of the electropsun fibers was reduced considerably especially when the load of surfactant TWEEN20 was up to 3%. The electropsun fibers exhibited excellent hygroscopicity, whose contact angle was zore, even when the load was 5%. XPS results demonstrated substantial enrichment of the surfactant TWEEN20 segments on the surfaces.

      Influence of spinning triangle zone change with yarn guider movement on yarn properties
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  19-25. 
      Abstract ( 293 )   PDF (1507KB) ( 293 )   Save
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      To exploer the relationship batween the feature of spinning guider' s movement and the qualities of ring spun yarn, a yarn gueder movement model was developed during the whole ring bobbin yarn package formation process, and arc length change was analyzed for the staple strand wrapping on the front roller within yarn formation zone. Then, the spinning triangle geometric square variations were investigated with the forementioned arc length change, and influence of above variations on spun yarn properties were also predicted, theoretically. Theoretical analysis indicated that spinning guide going up and down periodically led to the corresponding changes of decreasing and increasing geometric square of spinning triangle zone, influencing yarn hairiness directly. Experiments were also carried out to confirm theory above. Experimental results showed that yarn hairiness decreased as the responding decreasing geometric square of spinning triangle zone in the same position of packaging; the properties of whole bobbin yarn’s hairiness was influenced by spinning triangle’s changes, the size of yarn loop and so on.

      Influence of process optimization of breaker drawing on yarn quality of phenolic fiber
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  26-31. 
      Abstract ( 288 )   PDF (873KB) ( 175 )   Save
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      To investigate the influence of process optimization of breaker drawing and prioritization scheme on the yarn quality of phenolic fiber,the drawing process was optimized on the basis of the phenolic fiber carded smoothly. By selecting A for draft multiple factor of the back zone, B for roller center distance (pro-zone×middle zone×back zone), C for the drawing speed as the research objects, each factor selected three levels, the index values were unevenness of textile strands and weight unevenness of Y311 type, by using orthogonal analysis, the influence of different indexes and optimization schemes on yarn quality was studied. Visual prioritization scheme was A3B1C1 that had be gotten according to unevenness of textile strands, visual prioritization scheme was A2B3C1 that had be gotten according to weight unevenness, and prioritization scheme had be calculated according to multiple factors matrix. Tested the quality of yarns spun with the same spinning process adopting these schemes by USTER tester. The results show that the optimized scheme is A2B1C1 by using multi factor matrix optimization in the first drawing.of phenolic fibers.

      Clipping technics design method of multi-bar Raschel lace
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  32-37. 
      Abstract ( 334 )   PDF (6079KB) ( 270 )   Save
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      Clipped multi-bar Raschel lace shows high requirements for design ability due to miscellaneous types and few references, which cause a limit on possibility for new designs. Therefore, this paper systemically conducts a study on the clipping technology. Firstly, clipped multi-bar Raschel laces are classified by lapping type, ground structure and clipping surface. After that, principle of forming float structures for inlay, fall-plate and stitch pattern bars is studied by analyzing connection between lapping movements of pattern bars and ground bars. Afterwards, influential factors, such as lapping types of pattern bars and types of ground structure, on clipping technical surface design are studied based on characters of clipped technical face and back. Furthermore, design methods of clipping technics are presented for different patterns, ground structures and clipping surfaces. Finally, it proposes technical requirements for clipping design in terms of minimum clipping courses and length of clipped ends.

      Design of pulse sensing fabric based on fiber Bragg grating
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  38-41. 
      Abstract ( 527 )   PDF (5883KB) ( 344 )   Save
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      In order to monitor the pulse of the wearer in the garment, in this study, a way was proposed to produce a fabric sensor by integrating fiber Bragg grating sensor into a composed knitted structure, which was special designed by combining the air layer stitch and jacquard stitches. The compose structure is knitted with cotton yarns on a Stoll CMS-320 computerized flat knitting machine. Then, by taking advantages of good extensibility and elasticity of knitted structures, the fiber Bragg grating sensor was implanted into the structure and a sensing fabric was produced finally. For evaluating the effectiveness of the pulse sensing fabric, a test was conducted and the infrared pulse sensor was also involved for comparison. Analysis of test results reveals that the pulse sensing fabric has good stability and reliability in detecting wearers' pulse, and it is also washable and comfortable.

      Fabric defects detection method based on texture saliency features
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  42-049. 
      Abstract ( 674 )   PDF (14121KB) ( 130 )   Save
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      Owing to its low contrast, the defects of fabric images for background texture saliency are not very salient, and they are difficult to detect automatically. Aimed at this problem, a method for fabric defects detection based on texture saliency features is proposed in the paper. Firstly, in view of robustness of Tamura texture features, good discrimination and rotation invariance to texture, we present an improved local texture coarseness algorithm(ILTCA) based on multi-scale calculation in order to further enhance discrimination to local texture. Then on a fabric image, coarseness, contrast and direction are calculated respectively based on optimal scale of local textures in accordance with ILTCA and three characteristic sub-maps are obtained, a salient feature map is formed by normalization and weighted fusion for difference sub-maps. Finally, comparing with the existing methods of fabric defects detection based on visional saliency feature, the comparing experiment results on the TILDA texture databases show that the proposed method can effectively isolate fabric defects from salient background texture and fabric defects detected has good homogeneity and integrality.

      Mathematical modeling of air friction duag of clothing fabric surface
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  50-55. 
      Abstract ( 433 )   PDF (960KB) ( 271 )   Save
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      In order to study the effect of different skin texture of fabric’ssurface affectstheair resistance,this paper studied the air friction resistance on the surface of fabric.Based on the principle of fluid mechanics, this paper analyzedthe force bearing statuson the surface of the fabric, and put forward the “fabric surface air friction drag mode”.The paper also put forward an index to measure the fabric’s air resistance performance. It’s a dimensionlessindex,the smaller the value, the better the fabric’s air resistance performance.The wind speed on the surface of 27 fabrics was testedby wind tunnel experiment. The experimental data was calculatedby Visual Basic (VB) programming combing with statistical correlation analysis. Thenfabric surface air friction drag model was set up.27 fabric’s air friction drag coefficients werebetween 0.183-0.271 .Fit the wind tunnel experiment of experiment data with the model by least square method, the result shows that the goodness of fit tests R ?^2of the experimental data of allfabricswas above 0.976. The fabric surface air friction drag model is highly reliable.

      Dyeing process of nanoscale latex fluorescent pigment on cationic cotton fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  56-61. 
      Abstract ( 276 )   PDF (2076KB) ( 280 )   Save
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      As fluorescent pigment dispersion prepared by conventional disperse process has large particle size and poor stability, nanoscale latex fluorescent pigment was prepared via miniemulsion polymerization method and applied in dyeing of modified cotton fabric. The dyeing process of cationic cotton fabrics with nanoscale latex fluorescent pigment was investigated. The results show that the particle size of prepared nanoscale latex fluorescent pigment was 162 nm, and the obtained Zeta potential was -34.3 mV, the maximum adsorption wavelength was 425 nm, the maximum fluorescence emission wavelength was 517 nm. The dyeing performance of cationic cotton fibers with nanoscale latex fluorescent pigment was closely related to the cationization degree. Results show that when the concentration of 3-chloro-2-hydroxytrimethyl ammonium chloride was 0.10 mol/L, the optimized dyeing conditions were that the pH value was 7, the temperature and time were 50 °C, 40 min, the liquor ratio was 1:30, and the dyed cotton fabrics has good rubbing fastness.

      Structural colors of SiO2/polymethyllmethacrylate photonic crystal on polyester fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  62-67. 
      Abstract ( 353 )   PDF (8564KB) ( 156 )   Save
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      In order to develop the structural coloration application of inorganic/polymer composite microspheres in textiles, on the basis of the preparation of SiO2/PMMA microspheres with good monodispersity and controllable particle size, the ordered array of SiO2/PMMA photonic crystals were fabricated by vertical deposition self-assembly on the surface of polyester fabrics. FESEM, 3D video microscope and multi-angle spectrophotometer were applied to observe the arrangements and characterize the structural colors of photonic crystals. The results indicated that the SiO2/PMMA photonic crystals on the surface of polyester fabrics present three-dimensional orderly non-close packed face-centered cubic structure, displaying bright structural colors, and changed with the particle sizes. In different view angles, SiO2/PMMA photonic crystals present different hues and saturation indicating strong iridescent phenomena on the polyester fabrics.

      Influence of asymmetry imidazolium-based ionic liquids on retarding dyeing performance of acrylic fiber
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  68-72. 
      Abstract ( 409 )   PDF (953KB) ( 204 )   Save
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      In order to development environment-friendly retarding agent for acrylic fiber dyeing, three imidazolium-based ionic liquids (n-14) were used as retarding agent for methylene blue dyeing of acrylic fabrics. And the dyeing performance of n-14 was compared with conventional retarding agent cetyltrimethylammonium bromide (CTAB). The retarding dyeing laws of n-14 were explored by dosage of retarding agent, dyeing temperature and dyeing rate curves. It was found that the retarding dyeing performance of n-14 was increased with the increasing of alkyl carbon chain n. The addition of n-14 were decreased the final dyeing uptake of acrylic fabrics, but the same effect obtained by CTAB. Imidazolium-based ionic liquids n-14 can be as a excellent retarding agent for dyeing of acrylic fabrics.

      Research on flame retardant finishing agent of expansible graphite/polyvinylidene dichloride
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  73-77. 
      Abstract ( 556 )   PDF (1968KB) ( 402 )   Save
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      In order to research an dfficient and economic flame retardant finising agent usrd in fabric, polyvinylidene dichloride (PVDC) emulsion produced by the method of seed emulsion polymerization and expansible graphite (EG) were compounded to form flame retardant finishing agent. Effects of the defferent ratios of EG and PVDC in the finishing agent on flame retardant peoperties of the fabric were researched, physical and mechanical peoperties of finished fabric were measured, and the collaborative flame retardant mechanism of the finishing agent was analyzed by scanning electron microscopy and infrared spectrum. The results showed that the PVDC emulsion had high flame retardancy, and the mass ratio of EG and PVDC (1:99) flame retardant had the best synergistic flame retardant effect, its afterflame time and afterglow time were 0 s, and damaged length was 96 mm, and the finishing agent formed a dense carbon layer on the fabric surface, and has good thermal stability, and breaking strength of the finished fabric increased by 158%.

      Preparation and properties of conductive polyester coated fabric 
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  78-82. 
      Abstract ( 316 )   PDF (3252KB) ( 250 )   Save
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      To prepare the conductive fabric, the conductive carbon black was prepared by milling dispersion. The effect of carbon black particles, the content of carbon black, coating times, the content of binder, curing time and temperature on the properties of the conductive polyester (PET) coated fabric were studied. The properties of the PET coated fabric including the surface resistance, washing fastness, rubbing fastness, breaking strength, and elongation performance were tested. The test results showed that when the content of the conductive carbon black was 15%, conductive carbon black particle was 200nm, the coating times was four, the concentration of binder was 40%, curing time and tempreture were 150℃and 3 min,  the surface resistance of the PET coated fabric was minimized, the dry friction and wash fastness of the coated fabric could reach 5 grade, and the surface resistance of the PET coated fabric increased after washing.

      Preparation and waterproof and water-permeable properties of electrospun fluorinated polyurethanel polyurethane
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  83-88. 
      Abstract ( 512 )   PDF (6399KB) ( 281 )   Save
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      In order to obtain a high waterproofness clothing with good permeability, the paper reported a novel waterproof and water permeable fabric, the electrospun nanofibrous membranes was prepared by electrospinning, which possessed low surface free energy and rough surface, and then a polyester-cotton woven fabric with twill was used as a substrate for the nanofibrous membranes. The effects of concentration of fouorinated polyurethane (FPU) on morphological structure of nanofibers, water proof, vapor permission and mechanical properties of the electrospun nanofibrous membranes composite fabrics were studied. The results indicated that the optimum concentration of FPU for the electrospun nanofibrous membranes composite fabrics were 1.00%, meantime, the composite fabrics were endowed with the water contact angle of 141 °, the water vapor transmission rate achieves to 3 958 g/(m² • 24 h), and the spray grade can reach up to 5 , whilst the air permeability amount to 34.06 mm/s. The mechanical properties test showed that the mechanical properties gradually increased with the increase of FPU amount, when the concentration of FPU is 1.00%, and the value of bursting strength, tearing strength and tensile strength were enhanced by about 5.93%,30.79% and 5.48%, respectively.

      Preparation of carbon nanotubes/iron oxide composite absorbents for treatment of dye-containing wastewater
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  89-93. 
      Abstract ( 470 )   PDF (2198KB) ( 223 )   Save
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      The adsorption features of multi-walled carbon nanotubes (CNTs) and the magnetic properties of iron oxide were combined to produce magnetic absorbents. And the influence of kinetics, isotherm and absorbent dosage on the adsorption of methyl orange in wastewater by the composite adsorbents was discussed. The results showed that when the adsorption time was 120 min and the dosage of composite adsorbents was 0.2 g, the removal efficiency of methyl orange could reach the maximum at the room temperature, and the composite adsorbents have a good recycling performance. The adsorption processes fit well to Langmuir isotherm model. The composite adsorbents were characterized and analyzed by SEM, FT-IR and XRD. The results indicated that owing to greatly-increased surface functional groups, the absorption capacity of the composite adsorbents for methyl orange in wastewater was greatly improved, comparde than CNTs.

      Camber features of women's shoulder and influence thereof on fitted clothes' structure
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  94-100. 
      Abstract ( 471 )   PDF (3519KB) ( 302 )   Save
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      In order to obtain a better effect of structure design, in this paper, based on the 3-D human body measurement, relevant data about shoulder are acquireda and the SPSS analysis software is used to analyze these data. The parameter named shoulder arch is established to study shoulder horizontal camber, which value is between 0.702 and 0.912 . By the way of clustering analyzing the shoulder arch is analyzed and different shouledr models are acquired, adn by combining with the shoulder's slope classification standard, 9 different shoulders models are acquired finally.  By the correlation analysis, the negative relationship between shoulder arch and shoulder width is acquired. By using 3-D fitting function in OptiTex software different shoulder arch models are set up to analyze the effect of different shoulder arches on the dress, and by the three-dimensional cutting technology, different sample patterns are acquired. The change of process points in pattern is analyzed and the effect of different shoulder arch on the design is concluded, for example effect on neckline about it's length and position, on clothes body's sleeve arc line and on shoulder line length, and the most significant effect is on the back-neckline length, with the increase of the should arch, the back-neckline length gradually increased by an average value of 0.3 cm.

      Predicting model of young women’s breast surface area
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  101-106. 
      Abstract ( 336 )   PDF (4283KB) ( 350 )   Save
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      In order to establishing quantitative relationship between breast surface area and bra pattern-making parameters, young non-pregnant female students were scanned by 3-D body scanner, and breast feature points and boundary line were defined and extracted by reverse engineering software, then local breast coordinate system was built based on the feature points. According to the horizontal and segittal plan of local coordinate system, breast surface was divided into 4 parts as upper-inside, upper-outside, lower-inside and lower outside, and surface area of each part was measured. Body measurements related to bra pattern making were selected, regression models between body measurements and surface area of each part were established by the use of stepwise partial least squares regression method. Upon examination, no significant difference exists between the original values and forecastiong values of each breast surface area, and all the models have high precision, and can provide efficient breast surface area predicting method for breast shape analysis and bra personalized customization.

      Garment pattern design and developing trends of middle aged and old women
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  107-0112. 
      Abstract ( 473 )   PDF (15676KB) ( 116 )   Save
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      In order to improve the design of personalized fashion pattern of middle aged and old women, by comparing the difference of the old and the young women's garment pattern design in material selection and color matching, sorting and generalizing the suitable design theme and color matching rules for middle aged and old women`s garment pattern, and on this basis summarizing that: abstract pattern, minimalist pattern, rustic pattern, traditional pattern and texture pattern are suitable for middle aged and old people’s garment.Studies suggest that: Under the influence of modern social, economic, political, culture, middle-aged clothing pattern will combine with the fashion trend break through old forms, subjects diversification, content topicalization, style diversification are the developing direction; more emphasis on quality and attention to new technology will be the main development direction of middle-aged and old women’s clothing industry.

      Influence of peoduct development process of fast fashion brand on time performance
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  113-119. 
      Abstract ( 735 )   PDF (1087KB) ( 379 )   Save
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      To solve the issue of time performance in fast fashion product development process, this paper constructs a system dynamics model of product development process based on the practical case of a fast fashion brand S, and build a simulation experiment platform. With the basic framework “strategy-resources-performance”, the simulation experiments of resource allocation are carried about 7 key variables in process, and the simulation estimated values of three key performance indicators (KPI), such as cycle time, delivery rate and MEAN flow, are forecasted. Using local sensitivity and entropy method, weight coefficients of cycle time, delivery rate and MEAN flow are recognized as 53.5%、2.7% and 43.4%. According to weight coefficients and time-based competition strategy of brand S, time performance of process is evaluated comprehensively. The research shows that variables of batches, rate of designing clothing and fabric repeat usage have a great effect on the time performance of process. When layout batches reduce about 25%, the total time performance is optimal.

      Online detection of roving strand broken in siro-spinning
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  120-0124. 
      Abstract ( 700 )   PDF (2066KB) ( 257 )   Save
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      To solve the problem that roving strand broken of siro-spinning is difficult to be discovered in time during the process of production, the square wave signal is checked in this paper by using the principle of photoelectric detection,which is caused by the yarn rununing the front of detection probe before and after roving strand broken. There is a clearly difference between each wave signal width values before and after the roving strand broken by the transverse and longitudinal comparison to change features of each wave signal width values, which can be used to judge whether there is a roving break phenomenon .In this paper, experiments spinning the fineness of 29.2 tex combed cotton siro-spinning yarn were carried out on the FA507B spinning frame to validate the conclusion. The results showed that considering the influence of such factors as the yarn thickness, surface hairiness, change of balloon shape, the width of a single square wave increased by 0.3 ~ 0.4 times after roving strand broken. The case of siro-spinning roving strand broken can be indirectly judged by this change, thus it can provide theory bases for subsequent development of siro-spinning roving break stocks detection device.

      Distributed drive control unit design of air valve group on underwear machine
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  125-129. 
      Abstract ( 302 )   PDF (1712KB) ( 232 )   Save
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      The air valves of underwear machine are various and scattered. After analyzing and classifying the function and performance requirement of the valves in different location, a kind of distributed drive suggestion based on RS485 bus is put forward. According to distributed structure of control unit, total design framework is built and the article introduce the hardware circuit design, the software development and communication protocol which is formulated on the basis of control commands transmission requirements are discussed. In order to reduce the power and enhance the operating accuracy, pulse width modulation (PWM) mode is used as the drive mode. The current in different parameters (frequency and drty cycle) is measured, and in combination with the real movement, the most suitable parameters are selected. The results indicated that the solution and reliable, and the valve gas work efficiently, satisfying the control demand on the seamless underwear machine.

      Design on yarn selection mechanism of broche jacquard wrap knitted machine
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  130-134. 
      Abstract ( 379 )   PDF (948KB) ( 258 )   Save
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      In order to develop the products of warp knitted broche jacquard, the paper studies the design problem of the correspinding selection hook-needle motion mechanism. The mechanism os the key structure in the machine. The motion of the selection hook-needle requires reciprocating mowements with dwells. According to the requirements of the requirements of variation, stroke, long distance transmission in the expecting motion, the correspinding selection hook-needle mechanism is type synthesized a planar linkage-cam combined mechanism which is connected in series by an eight-bar linkage and a cam mechanism. Then the graphical inversion method is adopted to figure out the dimensions of the two groups of planar four-barmechanisms. And the dimensions of slide mechanism and curve of can are built by using analytical method. For the selection hook-needle in RJWB3/2, the stroke is 19 mm. And the cam nagles for rise, outer dwell, return, inner dwell are 150°,30°,80° and 100°, respectively. Based on these parameters the corresponding dimensions of linkages and curve of the cam are designed.

      Design of embedded electronic jacquard control system
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  135-140. 
      Abstract ( 306 )   PDF (2218KB) ( 398 )   Save
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      Aimed at the low reliability and maintenance difficulties problem of conventional warp knitting machine electronic jacquard control system with complex multi-card structure, this paper designed an embedded electronic jacquard control system, in which the microcontroller, pattern data memory, jacquard drive circuit, boost circuit and communication interfaces were integrated inside the piezo jacquard guide bar. The system with a distributed control architecture is called as the embedded electronic jacquard guide bar. The embedded electronic jacpuard guide bar mounted in a warp knitting machine adopts two MAX488 chips with full-duplex and low-power to implement serial daisy chain communication mode. Based on the analysis of the principle and characteristics of piezoceramic jacquard patterning, the paper also provided the design and implementation methods of the architecture and hardware circuit of embedded electronic jacquard control system. Test results show that the designed system work independently access to high voltage power supply, and which stable performance, high reliability, full function and strong interference resistance.

      Modified design and three-dimensional simulation for sewing machine for sewing laminated carbon cloth
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  141-144. 
      Abstract ( 729 )   PDF (1631KB) ( 162 )   Save
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      The improved mechanism for sewing machine for sewing carbon fiber cloth is designed to sew carbon fiber laminated fabric effectively and reduce the problem of disconnection in sewing process. The key point in this design is to relax the sewing thread by periodic take-up via a fork and a circle. The fork and circle cooperate the  sewing needle to reduce the shear stress in sewing thread, avoid the problem of disconnection and ensure the coherence of sewing and finish the sewing work. Three dimensional modeling and assembling are performed based on the Pro/Engineer software. And then to design a gear, cam, fork, circle and other key parts are designed, and the displacement, velocity and acceleration for the fork and circle in the Pro/Engineer’s mechanism module are analyzed. The result show that the modified mechanism can run smoothly and stably, and satisfy the demand of the expected design. It will reduce broken line rate and improve production efficiency by the modified mechanism.

      Graphene and enhanced fibers
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  145-152. 
      Abstract ( 424 )   PDF (2213KB) ( 598 )   Save
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      Graphene is an ideal reinforcing material for fibers, and the dispersion of graphene and the interfacial interaction between the graphene and the polymer matrix are the key factors for priparing the composite fibers. Herein, the paper briefly reviews the research progress of graphene-based composite fibers home and abroad, including properties and functionality of graphene, as well as spinning proeess of graphene fiber and grapheve/polymer composite fibers, along with the fibers based on graphene/foexible chain polymers and graphene/rigid chain polymers. The graphene/polymer composite fibers are still in research due to the high cost and complicated preparatio process, and the composite system will play an important role in the fields of aviation lightweight materials, conductive fibers and heat resistant fibers with the fast development of preparation process.

      Functional fibers based on graphene
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  153-157. 
      Abstract ( 516 )   PDF (2635KB) ( 709 )   Save
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      Owing to its unique band structure, graphene possesses excellent thermal, mechanical, electrical and optical properties, which make it suitable for warious applications inchuding biological detection, energy storage, actuators, conductive composite membranes and so on. At first, the edvelopment of graphene-based composite fibers in recent years are introduced. Several methods for the preparation of graphene fibers including wet spinning, electrospinning, electrodeposition and chemical vapor diposition are leaborated in detail, and the performance of products obtained from each method are also compared. Then this review summauizes the relationship between the reaction conditions and the performance of graphene fibers, as well sa the applications of graphene fibers in the fields of wearable electronics and smart textiles. At last, prostpective on graphene fibers was also proposed, and may provide solutions for future research or applications of graphene fibers.

      Preparation of graphene/polyvinylidenefluoride composite nanofibers by electrospinning
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  158-0161. 
      Abstract ( 491 )   PDF (2076KB) ( 329 )   Save
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      Nanofibers of polyvinglidenefluoride(PVDF) /graphene composite were prepared by electrospinning the mixed suspension of PVDF and graphene(GE).The morphologies as well as mechanical properties of the nanofibers were studied, and the result reveals that the structure and properties of composites depend on the ratio of graphene to concentration of PVDF, voltage, and distance of collection. There are three forms of a sheet of graphene in the nanofibers. The tensile strength increase by 49% when 1% graphene (GE300)  is added, and homogeneous nanofibers of composites can be obtained when the concentration of PVDF is 26%(mass fraction), spinning voltage 20 kV, collect distance 20 cm.

      Research progress of graphene-plus adsorption and separation functional materials
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  162-0169. 
      Abstract ( 575 )   PDF (7069KB) ( 324 )   Save
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      Graphene is a two-dimensional nano-material with the thickness of only one carbon atom, which is consisting of carbon atoms in the hexagonal honeycomb lattice formed by sp2 hybrid orbitals, exhibiting high specific surface area and excellent electrical, thermal, optical and mechanical properties, as well as exceptional hydrophobicity/superlipophilicity. Therefore, graphene is promising in the fields of adsorption and separation due to its unique structure and properties. The paper gives a comprehensive review to the recent studies about the fabrication of graphene-plus adsorption functional materials (grapheme-based sponge, graphene hydrogel/aerogel, graphene/carbon nanotubes), graphene-plus separation functional membrane materials (graphene porous membrane, graphene-plus polymer separation membrane, layer-by-layer graphene membrane), and graphene-plus continuous oil adsorption and separation functional materials. Moreover, the research progress and application prospect in oil/water separation process were analyzed and investigated.

      Research and development of graphene composite fibers and fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(10):  170-0177. 
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      To explore diverse application of graphene in functional fiber and textiles, the multiple functions of the preparation of graphene composite fiber and functional studies were introduced through the products of the summary of our research of graphene composite fibers. The preparation of graphene/regenerated fiber and the features such as mechanical enhancement, flame retardant, thermal stability, prevent ultraviolet and infrared emission characteristics and weather resistant anti-aging of the composite fibers were studied. Graphene UV protection fabric, graphene oxide/chitosan composite conductive fabric, graphene far-infrared fabric, graphene oxide/sodium alginate composite film and the nanometer manganese dioxide/graphene modified fabric were produced and tested. Graphene composite fibers and products have a broad application prospect in far-infrared functional textiles, individual protection and intelligent textiles field.