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Table of Content

    15 November 2016, Volume 37 Issue 11
    • Structure and physicochemical properties of polyester/polyamide copolymer fiber
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  1-7. 
      Abstract ( 440 )   PDF (1656KB) ( 346 )   Save
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      To investigate the structure and properties of polyester/polymer (PET-A) fiber, the structure and thermal stability of PET-A fiber were studied by means of Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) , X-ray diffraction (XRD) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). At the same time, fiber’s tolerance under different conditions of alkali、acid、oxidizing agents and reducing agents were analyzed. Result shows that PET-A fiber is composed of polyester and polyamide two components and its crystallinity is 46.95% . The thermal stability of PET-A fiber is better, and the glass transition temperature, crystallization temperature and melting temperature are 70℃、150℃ and 233℃, respectively. The tolerance of PET-A fiber in sodium hyddroxide solution is poor and the weight loss rate of fiber more than 97% under the conditions of NaOH 80g/L, 90℃ and 60min. But PET-A fiber has better tolerance in sodium carbonate solution, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, hydrogen peroxide and sodium dithionite solution. However it has poor tolerance in nitric aced solution.

      Performance of aligned polylactic acid/collagen nanofibrous scaffolds
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  8-13. 
      Abstract ( 468 )   PDF (1708KB) ( 371 )   Save
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      Biodegradable bolylactic acid (PLLA) and collagen were chosen as raw materials. PLLA and  polylactic acid/collagen (PLLA/Coll) nanofibrous scaffolds with different morphologies (randomness and alignment) were prepared by electrospinning to study the properties and the guiding function of aligned nanofiber for the cell growing. Firstly, the morphologies, chemical and mechanical characterizations of different nanofibrous scaffolds were carried out. Then mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs) were culred and the attachment and proliferation of cells on different scaffolds were evaluated. The results show that aligned nanofibers possess thinner fiber diameter, anisotropic morphology and performance, and the wettability and mechanical properties in parallel direction are better than those in perpendicular direction. Composite PLLA/Coll scaffolds have cell-recognition moieties, which can improve the attachment and proliferation of cells. Hence, MSCs cultured on aligned PLLA/Coll scaffolds express aligned spindle phenotype, more similar to the phenotype of native MSCs.

      Influence factors of polypropylene fibers prepared by melt electrospinning
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  14-18. 
      Abstract ( 497 )   PDF (1717KB) ( 318 )   Save
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      In this paper, the factors influencing the polypropylene (PP) fibers diameter prepared by melt electrospinning were discussed. The influencing factors, such as flow rate, temperature of polymer melt, applied voltage, distance between nozzle and target and electric field force were considered. The molten polymer deposited on the target at 0.05 mL/h was fibrous shape and the diameter of elecrospun fibers was in direct proportion to the flow rate. After polymer melt temperature reached up to 260C° (temperature of molten polymer)/280℃(temperature of spinneret), the diameter did not decrease any more. When the electric field force was constant, as the voltage and spinning distance before 30 mm increased, the average fiber diameter decreased. The flow rate was 0.05 mL/h, temperature was 260 °C/280C (polymer melt/nozzle), voltage was -24.6 kV and distance was 30 mm. The electrospun fiber under the parameters above was 6.23 μm, and standard deviation was 1.42.

      Research on compressive force transmission properties and densities-mechanical properties model of cotton fiber assembly
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  19-25. 
      Abstract ( 602 )   PDF (1488KB) ( 299 )   Save
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      In order to analyze compressive force transmission properties of the cotton fiber assembly, the comperssion test of cotton fiber assembly was carried out in the universal test of machine, pressure was acquired in the pressure sensing system form the upper, middle and lower cotton layer. This paper analyzed the relationship between pressure and strain, and relative density of cotton fiber saaembly.The results show that various cotton layers of pressure increases with increasing strain of cotton fiber assembly during compressing process. And various cotton layers of pressure become lower in turn from top to bottom, the interlayer pressure showed obvious differences. By subsequent analysis on the cotton fiber assembly density with mechanics, it was found that the relation between relative density and presuure could be expressed in best linearity. Namely, various cotton layers of pressure was in the linear increasing in the compression process with relative density increasing. The R-square of regression function between relative density and presuure difference of various cotton layers of pressure for testing sample was close to 1. It is showed that cotton fiber assembly has significant strain-rate sensitivity.

      Measurement of yarn evenness using sequence images
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  26-31. 
      Abstract ( 295 )   PDF (1510KB) ( 183 )   Save
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      In order to evaluate the yarn apparent evenness more precisely and continuously, a method based on sequence images of yarn was developed and applied to measure the yarn evenness. At first, an image acquisition system was adopted to acquire the sequence images of yarn. Then, the images were segmented to binary images based on FCM ( Fuzzy C-mean ) clustering. Finally, a threshold value was set to remove the isolate points and burr points in the binary image and acquire yarn core image. The number of pixels of each row was accumulated in the yarn core image to calculate the yarn diameter value. To verify the accuracy of the proposed method, seven kinds of compact-spinning pure cotton yarns with different counts were measured and the results compared with those by USTER® Tester 5-S800. It shows that the results of yarn evenness measured by sequence images are highly correlated with those by the USTER tester, proving the proposed method is accurate and feasible.

      Characteristics of warp yarn hanging path under weaving tension
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  32-36. 
      Abstract ( 444 )   PDF (1255KB) ( 176 )   Save
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      During the multi-layer weaving process, aiming at difficulties in creating a clear shed opening passage for each warp layer, an analytical model to characterize the hanging path of each layer's warp yarn are propsed. Experiments has also been conducted to evaluate the accurancy of the analytical model by using different yarns such as kevlar, carbon and glass fiber or by using various carbon fiber yarns such as in fineness. After the comparisons, it is fornd that this model suits better to describe finer yarns, however, with coarse yarns, the model lost its efficiency and need to be further modified. The outcomes from this work is to provide a useful reference to characterise the warp yarn hanging path during multi-layer weaving under statistic conditions.

      Relationship between structure parameters and wrinkle resistance of worsted fabric
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  37-41. 
      Abstract ( 252 )   PDF (1118KB) ( 298 )   Save
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      To explore the relationship between wrinkle resistance of worsted fabric and structure parameters, 18 kinds of worsted wool fabrics are firstly collected, and then the JN-1 fabric wrinkle recovery dynamic tester is used to conduct wrinkle recovery angle test. By data analysis, relation between structure parameters and fabric's wrinkle recovery angle was as established. In order to further explore the influence of fabric structure parameters on its wrinkle resistance and find out which structural paraeter has a greater impact on the wrinkle recovery angle, the correlation was analyzed. The results indicated that the wrinkle resistance of worsted fabric is related to fabric material, yarn linear density and twist as well as fabric warp density, weft density, tightness and areal density. In addition to fiber raw materials, the influence of yarn twist on fabric wrinkle recovery is the largest among them.

      Weaving techniques and mathematical model of techniques for patterned simple gauze of Song dynasty
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  42-47. 
      Abstract ( 1008 )   PDF (1605KB) ( 241 )   Save
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      This study aimes to make a contribution to the study of salvage conservation of intangible cultural heritance of textile industry. It analyzed and classified patterned simple gauze relics of the Song dynasty from archaeological excavations according to weaving structure features thereof. Coming to a conclusion that the String-Heddle Patterning loom was set with coupled doup harness and was used in patterned simple gauzes production in the Song according to sericulture and weaving. The techniques of weaving patterned simple gauzes by the loom are known. The study made looming drafts of fabrics, after comparison between modern patterned simple gauze loom and patterned simple gauze loom of Song, based on working principle of modern patterned gauze loom. Looming drafts of patterned simple gauze were divided into the weaving structure, crossing ends draft plan, ground ends draft plan, crossing ends lifting plan and ground ends lifting plan. According to the matrix principle, the study makes the above 5 parts as 5 matrixes and puts forward mathematical models by defining logical operation. The mathematical model provides a basic theory for the system of CAD and modern loom.

      Warp knit fabric defect detection method based on optimal Gabor filters
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  48-54. 
      Abstract ( 428 )   PDF (1831KB) ( 339 )   Save
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      Focusingonautomaticimageinspectionofwarpknitfabricdefectsintextileindustry,anewmethodforwarpknitfabric defect detection based on an optimal Gabor filter is presented. The proposed method consists of two process: the training and the inspection process. In the training process, the parameters of the 2D-Gabor filter can be tuned by the quantum-behaved particle swarm optimization (QPSO) algorithm to match with the texture features of a defect-free template acquired in prior. In the inspection process, each sample fabric image under inspection is convoluted with the selected optimized Gabor filter. Then a simple thresholding scheme is applied to generate a binary segmented result. Experimental results show that the detection rate of the proposed method can reach 96.67%. It has good performance of stability and robustness, suitable for industrial production.

      Influence of sponge porous material on properties of waterproof and moisture permeable composite fabric
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  55-58. 
      Abstract ( 358 )   PDF (1117KB) ( 250 )   Save
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      To develop a kind of waterproof and breathable heat retention laminated composite fabric, the waterproot and moisture permeable laminated composite fabrics were prepared from woven fabric, thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) film, porous sponge, and polar fleece fabric as the basic materials, with moisture-curable polyurethane hot-melt adhesive by laminating 2 or 3 times. The micro-morphological structure of the laminated composite fabrics were observed and analyzed, and influencing factors on waterproof, moisture permeable, peel strong performance and warmth retention property were studied. It was obvious that the waterproof and moisture permeable and peeling strength laminated composite fabrics with porous sponge were slightly reduced but the warmth retention ratio was greatly increased by about 30% . And the solution to insufficiency of the heat retention property of the laminated composite fabric using in extremely cold environment region was basically solved.

      Tensile Properties of Polyurethane-coated Multi-axial Warp Knitted Fabric
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  59-063. 
      Abstract ( 236 )   PDF (1211KB) ( 231 )   Save
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      In order to study on the reincarnation properties of PU-coated multi-axial warp knitted fabric, five directions with 0°, 22.5°, 45°, 67.5° and 90° of this material were cut for uniaxial tension experiment. The tensile curves and the elastic modulus were analyzed. The deformation behaviors were observed and Poisson’s ratios were calculated by utilizing the digital image correlation (DIC) system. Lastly, orthotropic model was used to predict the elastic modulus and Poisson’s ratio in 22.5° and 67.5° directions. It is found that this coated fabric has a great elongation with more than 400% in five directions. And the closer to 67.5° is,  the greater of the elastic modulus is. At the beginning of tensile, it can be obtained by the DIC system that the transverse shrink deformations are inhomogeneous, it shrink faster in the center but slower at the edge of the specimens, but the longitudinal tensile deformation is relatively uniform. There is a good prediction of the initial modulus and Poisson’s ratio by using orthotropic model, and the absolute error value is less than 23.69%.

      Application of gray clustering analysis in evaluation of fabric thermal performance
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  64-67. 
      Abstract ( 251 )   PDF (1083KB) ( 293 )   Save
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      To investigate the thermal properties of the phenolic fiber fabrics and apply them to the field of fire, five common used fire-fighting fabrics including polyimide fabric, aramid 1313 fabric, aramid 1414 fabric, BA cotton fabric and carbon fabric were selected as the research objects. The thermal test was carried out under the same conditions. The indexes including coefficient of thermal conductivity, thermal diffusivity、specific heat capacity、vertical limiting oxygen index and zonal limiting oxygen index were taked.  The thermal properties of different kinds of fabrics with same weight were sudied. A single index can’t evaluate synthetically merits of the thermal properties of these five kinds of fabrics. Therefore, the grey clustering analysis method was used to make a comprehensive evaluation of the thermal performance of the five indexes. Results indicate that the phenolic fiber fabric and polyimide fabric have better thermal performance, aramid 1313 fabric is medium, and aramid 1414 fabric, BA cotton fabric and carbon cloth are the worst.

      Trace analysis of twist formed tools in the origin of human civilization
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  68-74. 
      Abstract ( 443 )   PDF (2081KB) ( 240 )   Save
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      It seems that only stone tools/hard tools existed in human civilization. No soft tools especially any twist- formed and flexible tools with some tying, hanging, fixing function had ever beendiscribed. Therefore, by the existing historical material objects and using the method of trace exploring analysis, from the aspect of pictogram record, pottery and hard tool it is proved the twist formed tools in paleolithic already exists and has achieved the evolution from the old twist formed tools to the new twist formed tools before the neolithic. It is concluded that old spinning tools appeared the same time as psleolithic and new twisting tools appeared 100 000 years ago. Human's tool history has not been a lonely one stone and there is more wisdom and complex, but it seems to be ignored and date wrong, that is twisting tool. At the same time, the new and old twist formed tools are defined and classified. As a kind of soft tools, their form and/or function traces on the Neolithic stones are discussed and explained. Fabric is not narrow as modern understanding of the scope. Twisting tool has an irreplaceable role for the evolution of the progressof human civilization and tools.

      Preparation of 4-Methylmopholine N-oxide based ultrafine carbon black 
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  75-79. 
      Abstract ( 501 )   PDF (1506KB) ( 180 )   Save
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      To solve the solidification problem of lyocell fiber spinning solution caused by water-based pigment, highly stable 4-Methylmopholine N-oxide (NMMO) based ultrafine nano carbon black (CB) pigment was prepared for spun-dyeing lyocell fibers by investigating various influence factors. The influences of different dispersant structures and their amount, ultrasonic power and time, the mass fraction of water in the dispersion media and the mass fraction of CB on the particle size, distribution and stability of NMMO based ultrafine CB dispersion were studied. The results showed that the prepared NMMO based ultrafine CB with dispersant SP has the smallest particle size and excellent dispersion stability. It was also observed that the NMMO based ultrafine CB was highly compatible with the spinning solution. The optimum condition for preparing the nano CB pigment using orthogonal experimental model were SP of 20 % (by weight of CB content) and CB of 10 % (by weight of entirety), with the ultrasonic power 800 W for 20 min.

      New automatic and continuous production process of disperse dyes
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  80-85. 
      Abstract ( 588 )   PDF (1459KB) ( 288 )   Save
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      In order to improve the automation level of the production of disperse dyes, a new automatic and continuous production process of disperse dyes was investigated from the aspects of deazotization process and coupling reaction process. Compared with the conventional batch peoduction process, the high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) purity of the C.I. kisperse violet 93:1 and the C.I. disperse blue 291:3 produced by the new artomatic and continuous production process was improved by 1.16% and 0.87%, respectively, and their yield has improved by 2.06% and 2.07% respectively, the filtration time livels of the high temperature dispersity are all of the A-grade. The residue levels of the C.I. disperse violet 93:1 produced by the new automatic and continuous production technology are 4 levels, which is a little higher than that of the C.I. disperse violet 93:1 prodrced by the traditional batch production process (3-4 grade). The color and various volor fastness of the dyed polyester fabric by new process are similar to that produced by traditional process. The application of the new automatic and continuous production technology of disperse dyes reduces more than twenty percent dosage of the filter cake mother liquor, omproved the repeating utilization factor of the water, avoided varius problems existed in the traditional batch production process, and stabilized the quality of the disperse dyes. Meanwhile, the environmental and economic benefits of the enterprise were enhanced.

      Influence of dye solution pH value on dyeing effects and antibacterial properties of wool fabrics dyed with tea natural dye
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  86-91. 
      Abstract ( 793 )   PDF (1610KB) ( 186 )   Save
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      Tieguanyin tea extract was used as natural dye to dye wool fabrics directly at pH vallues of 3.5, 5.5 (pH of original tea extract), 7.5 and 9.5. The antibacterial properties of dyed wool fabrics were studied. The results indicated that dye solution pH value has great influence on K/S value and color of wool fabrics. When the pH value of dye solution was 5.5, the dyed wool fabric exhibited the maximum K/S value. The dyed wool fabrics have good rubbing and washing fastness, but poor sunlight fastness. The fabrics became darker under light, and the effect of light decreased as dye solution pH value rose. When dye solution pH value was 5.5, the antibacterial rate of dyed wool fabrics to Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus was highest, at 98.9% and 93.2%, respectively. The antibacterial rate decreased when dye solution was more acidic or alkaline, especially the dye solution was alkaline.

      Dissolution properties of hemp fiber in lithium chloride /N, N- Dimethylacetamide
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  92-97. 
      Abstract ( 512 )   PDF (1394KB) ( 177 )   Save
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      In order to improve the solubility of hemp fibers, samples were subjected to alkali pretreatment and lithium chloride /N, N- Dimethylacetamide (LiCl/DMAc) solution treatment. Native hemp fibers were immersed in 18% alkali liquor and 60℃ bath temperature for 1 -4 h. After pretreatment, hemp fibers were dissolved in 10% LiCl/DMAc solvent system at different temperatures (70 C, 80 C and 95 C).The changes of the surface morphology, crystallization structure and solubility of hemp fibers were indicated by scanning electron microscope, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction and solubility test. The results show that with the alkali treatment crystal form of cellulose I turned into cellulose II . Solubility of hemp fibers increased when LiCl/DMAc treatment temperature were raised from 70℃ to 95℃. After alkaline activation, hemp fibers could be dissolved1.0-1.2g for 2h and 1.2-1.5g for 3h in 10% LiCl/DMAc soluble system. The viscosity value of the hemp/LiCl/DMAc with hemp fiber pretreated by NaOH for 3 h is greater for 3 h NaOH preteratment hemp fibers in. The solution of hemp/LiCl/DMAc is stable.

      Thermal protective performance of fabric upon hot water splashes
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  98-102. 
      Abstract ( 287 )   PDF (1015KB) ( 269 )   Save
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      As industrial workers may be threatened by hot water splashes, the study investigated the heat transfer of fabric upon hot water splashes. The orthogonal experiment was designed to test performance of 11 kinds of fabrics under conditions different water temperatures, splash angles and splash heights. The experiment was conducted by a hot water protective performance tester, and the 2-grade burn time was adopted to characterize the thermal protective performance of fabric. The effects of the fabric property and splash condition on the thermal protective performance were analyzed. The results show that water-proof finish can improve the thermal protective performance of fabric. The splash condition and fabric peoperty influence the thermal protective performance in different position of fabric. The temperature of hot water is the most important factor influencing the thermal protective performance. The thermal protective performance of upper position of fabric is primarily related to the splash condition. The protective performance of the lower position is influenced mostly by the fabric property.

      Extraction and analysis of surface morphology characteristic
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  103-108. 
      Abstract ( 450 )   PDF (1442KB) ( 284 )   Save
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      To achieve the forward engineering design of the mold cup development and acquire the characteristic curves which could control the bra cup surface type, 3-D scanner was used to acquire point cloud data of the mold cup, and the mold cup model was built with reserve engineering software, and then 26 mold cup internal and external surface curves were obtained accirding to the feature points and maximum points and minimun points distrebution, 5 mold cup interior and exterior surface characteristic curves were extracted to demonstrate the feature information of the cup surface. The experimental results show that the discrete degree of different geometric parameters' distributions of model cup structure characteristic curves is more uniform than that of angle characteristic curves. Therefore, the model cup structure characteristic curves can reflect more morphological characteristics of different types of mold cups surface. By fitting, the relationships between arc length of characteristic curves and the cup depth vere achieved. The control on the curve surface morphological structure could be realized by changing the geometric parameters on the morphological characteristic curves.

      Principle of internal rotation structure and method of pattern making for fit-sleeve
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  109-113. 
      Abstract ( 334 )   PDF (1100KB) ( 154 )   Save
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      The fit-sleeve achieved from the conventional pattern-making methods couldn’t satisfy the human arm motion comfoet and aesthetic problems. In order to solve this peoblem, the design principles of torsion used in the state of internal rotation and the pattern make of the designs of internal rotation wereanalyzed. combined fashion trends of Europe with the data structure analysis, comprehensive research on the internal rotation state, roundness, angles, cambered angles and the front slopes of the sleeves, were made by draping experiments. The research suggests that the torsion of internal rotation for fit-sleeves with one-piece or two-piece can be generated by changing the length of the front sleeve line, and increasing the front sleeve line curve, and the blocking process is to combined restore the length and form difference. Based on the traditional physical designs and models, the new pattern-make is formed, which improves the traditional structure design and the version of the fit-sleeve, and increases the clothing comfort and beauty.

      Prediction of garment standard time based on processes similarity
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  114-119. 
      Abstract ( 629 )   PDF (1532KB) ( 185 )   Save
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      With the multi-specification and small batch manufacturing, in order to achieve fast and accurate time-quota prediction, this study efficient use of enterprise data and proposes a new method based on similarity of processes. The products were encoded depending on styles, components and procedures, and standard time quota database was established to make the work time quick inquiry. This paper established the model of the evaluation indicators for processes similarity, analyzed with principsl component, obtained the weight of each index, and made fuzzy membership functions to calculate the similar coefficients of the benchmark process and sample process. The function relationship between the standard time quotas and the similar coefficients was determine to predict the unknown time by curve fitting with MatLab. The research results show that the thghest index weight is the process (0.0108) , and the lowest index weight is the specification (0.011) . In the case study the predicted time of "zipper" (201s) is close to the actual time by stopwatch (208s) which peoves the high accuracy and feasibility of the method.

      Costume design mode based on four-dimensional concept
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  120-125. 
      Abstract ( 293 )   PDF (1875KB) ( 267 )   Save
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      In order to study the space-time change under the background of clothing characteristic and presentation technique, based on four-dimensions design theory, three types of clothing and parasitic mode were proposed, which are sports clothing parasitic mode, time clothing under symbiotic mode and change of clothing under variable-mode. The grneral rules and basic techniques and the functions of "four-dimensions" garment were analyzed and summarized. Parasitic- modes mainly contain illusion, hollow out, folds and manifold parasitic modes. Symbiotic- modes include style, color, motifs, technology symbiotic forms, etc. , and variable-modes include costume function and costume function and appearance of raw material variable forms and so on. The results of the study clarify garment types and design performance mode under the concept of four-dimension, enriches the study of the theory of " four-dimensions" costume design concept, and provides ideas and method for practice.

      Influence of warp knitting tension compensation device on warp tension
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  126-129. 
      Abstract ( 425 )   PDF (1123KB) ( 262 )   Save
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      Based on the significant influence of warp tension on warp knitting production, the KARL MAYER type warp knitting machine was used to carry out the experiments. Firstly, the elasticity coefficient of elastic element for the compensation device was tested, and then three groups of tension spring installation density and tension spring specifications were selected, the warp tension test experiments were carried out by changing the elastic coefficient. The experiment data analysis shows that by changing the tension compensation device related parameters, the slastic properties of compensation device could be changed, which can adjust the compensation on warp knitting tension. The results show that the maximum dynamic tension of warp increases with the elasticity coefficient of tension compensation device, and the minimum value first increases then decreases. The average dynamic tension of warp rises, and the variation coefficient increases. This indicates that with the elastic coefficient increase of tension compensation device, the compensation effects decreases.

      Pattern preparation system of seamless underwear knitting machine and data security
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  130-135. 
      Abstract ( 381 )   PDF (1365KB) ( 140 )   Save
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      Imported pattern system almost has monopolized the pattern preparation technology of seamless underwear knitting machine through data encryption. In order to meet the requirement of domestic underwear design and manufacture, a system including pattern and action preparation for underwear knitting machine is designed, and a compression algorithm, an encryption algorithm and data analysis are used in this system for solving the problems of data security and space using. The pattern preparation system is divided into a pattern design subsystem and a chain action subsystem. In pattern subsystem, a bitmap similar to structure diagram shows the structure of knitting fabric, and a yarn finger bitmap shows the movement of yarn finger. In chain action subsystem, a series of data structures is designed according to the knitting technology and process of machine actions to express the data of chain action file. It is verified that the system is convenient, fast and efficient for design of underwear knitting. And the data file is space-saving , safe and reliable transmission.

      Analysis on mechanical structure of electric tufting gun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  136-140. 
      Abstract ( 297 )   PDF (972KB) ( 227 )   Save
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      In order to master the using method and debugging methods of the electric tufting gun and improve the quality of tufting, a type of the electric tufting gun was chosen as the research object. First, the mechanical structure characteristics and working principles of the electric tufting gun are introduced. Then, in order to be familiar with the coordination requirements between needle and scissor, MatLab-Simulink is used for the kinematics simulation and time series analysis of two-slider-crank mechanism. Finally the results of kinematics equation can be used for variable parameter adjustment, which is convenient for tufting gun debugging to satisfy the requirement of weaving the corresponding pile height. The theoretical data can be used to debug the tufting gun and reduce the debugging time.

      Fast fabric defect detection algorithm based on integral image
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  141-147. 
      Abstract ( 676 )   PDF (1697KB) ( 143 )   Save
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      The exisiting fabric defect detection methods based on image processing is poor in real-time performance and low in accuracy. In order to solve this problem, an algorithm consisting of two stages of learning and detection was proposed. By means of learning the gradient energy features and their distribution properties of non-defect model images, parameters in the detection stage were obtained automatically. On the one hand, by using integral image theory, summation operation in the image patch with arbitrary size was simplified to three addition operations, and gradient energy features in fabric images were extracted very quickly, so that fabric defects can be detected in real time. On the other hand, kernel functions were used to fit the distribution of feature parameters, mean shift method was used to solve the peak value in the distribution, and an adaptive threshold was obtained, so that fabric defect can be segmented precisely. In the experiments, the proposed algorithm was compared with the other three methods, respectively, based on local binary pattern features, wavelet features and regular band features. Tests on fabric image datasets including three kinds of textures and six kinds of defects show that the proposed method has an average running time 56 ms and the accuracy rate is 97%.

      Computer-aided design of warp-knitted double jacquard shoe-upper
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  148-153. 
      Abstract ( 516 )   PDF (1460KB) ( 208 )   Save
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      To realize high-efficiency design of warp-knitted double jacquard shoe-uppers, based on the analysis of double jacquard shoe-uppers’ structural features, this paper analyzed its forming and jacquard principles, and established the computer-aided design model of this fabric. A mathematic model was set up for describing chain notations, threading-in design, jacquard grid and jacquard chain effect to conduct computer software to design warp-knitted double jacquard shoe-upper. Combined with the sport requirement s of human feet and production practices, the upper partition design and shoe jacquard pattern design and process design methods were introduced, and the design and process of this kind of fabric were summarized. The computer-aided design of double jacquard shoe-upper has been proved more rapid and accurate.

      Digitallization and customization fashion brand elements analysis and evolution
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  154-158. 
      Abstract ( 715 )   PDF (1088KB) ( 213 )   Save
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      New normal and supply side change accompany with several problems, especially when brand utilizws digitalization tool and customization concept to realize brand evolution. By 100 pre-test questionnaires, deeply talking and focus on group survey, an evaluation system on brand digiatlization and customization containing 4 secondary indexes and 18 third level indexes was built. After second time questionnaire data collection, the core elements, sub-core elements and outside elements for digitalization and customization brand were clarified. Affter analysis on target level, strategy level, tactic level and supply level, digitalization and customization brand model wrere constructed finally, which woll be helpful to recognize customer needs and wants more accurately, and cater to customization and digitalization demand of target constumer. By correspindence analysis by use of digitalization and customization brand model, zone group and flow path, the pathway to realize brand evolution was discussed.

      Research progress of numerical simulation of heat and moisture transfer in porous textiles
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  159-165. 
      Abstract ( 496 )   PDF (1863KB) ( 328 )   Save
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      Research of numerical simulation of heat and moisture transfer can provide theoretical foundation for the preparation and heat-moisture peoperties evaluation of porous textiles. Based on the heat and moisture transfer through fabrics fabrics was summarized in terms of heat and moisture transfer models, numerical simulation  methods and test methods of fabric heat-moisture transport properties, and the problems existing in the numerical simulation of heat and moisture transfer in fabric were analyzed. Taking into consideration interweave structure characteristics of fabric and the physical properties of the yarn was proposed when coupled geat and moisture transfer model established in three-dimensionl. In addition, the change of material physicalproperties depending on practical application conditions was considered in the process of numerical analysis, heat and moisture transfer numerical model of fabric need further optimize and the improvement of the accuracy.

      Research status and development trend of 3-D simulation technology for weft knitted fabric
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2016, 37(11):  166-172. 
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      The 3-D simulation simulation technology of weft knitted fabric and its development history are systematically introduced. The challenges, recent research hotspots, and future development trends for 3-D simulation of weft knitted fabric are also detailed analyzed. According to the analyses above, some guidelines for the further research of 3-D simulatio are given. In this work, the research history of weft knitted 3-D simulation technology is discussed from three levels which are loop model, yarn realistic and mechanics simulation.  As years of research by scholars both domestic and overseas, the 3-D simulation has been develobed from static simulation to mechanics simulation with physical property. And the advantages and disadvantages of existing research results are analyzed. On this basis, the development trend of this technology is analyzed. The 3-D simulation technology will have a good development in physical simulation method, divwrsity of loop type and application scope diversification.