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Table of Content

    15 January 2017, Volume 38 Issue 01
    • Preparation and characterization of rice straw cellulose nanowhiskers
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  1-7.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160402507
      Abstract ( 601 )   PDF (1728KB) ( 254 )   Save
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      For the development of rice straw high value-added applications, a novel controllable fabrication of cellulose nanowhiskers from rice straw using a 2, 2, 6, 6-tetramethylpiperidinooxy (TEMPO)/NzBr/NaClO system by selective oxidization combined with mechanical homogenization was reported. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy and X-ray diffraction were used to characterize the samples. The results show that rice straw mainly contains cellulose, himicellulose and lignin, and the cellulose content increases significantly after chemical treatment, while hemicellulose and lignin content are decreased. Rice straw cross-section has many pores, and the internal surface are randomly distrebuted with different sizes of spherical particles. After chemical treatment, non-cellulose material is partially removed and the fiber surface becomes relativily smooth. Cellulose nanowhiskers after freeze drying are woven into multilayer mesh and have a diameter of  10 - 25 nm and a length of 200 - 400 nm. The crystallinities of rece straw and rice straw fiber are 29.76% and 30.28%, respectively adn the crystallization degree of rice straw cellulose nanowhiskers is 40.71%. All of them show the crystal structure of cellulose Ⅰ.

      Preparation of oriented nanowires by melt differential electrospinning
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  8-12.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160103905
      Abstract ( 336 )   PDF (1375KB) ( 292 )   Save
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      The melt differential electrospinning process and device combining swirl air intake assisting with roll collection was put forward to prepare melt electrospun nanodibers and oriented nanowires. By changing the process parameters, the diameter of the fibers and the orientation of the final nanowires can be effectively controlled. The average diameter and orientation of the fibers were observed and measured by SEM and the degree of crystalinity of the oriented nanowires was measured by XRD. The experiment shows when the speed of swirl air intake is getting larger, the deameter of the fiber become smaller. When the speed of swirl air intake is 20 m/s, the average diameter of fiber can be up to 500nm. When the speed of swirl air intake is close to the rotating line speed, the orientation of fiber is exceedingly good. When the rotating line speed is close to 20m/s, the nanowire orientation is the best. Dozens of fibers prepared by single nozzle gathered into wires  and the crystallinity of the nanowire was the highest.

      Preparation and properties of polylactic acid/polypropylene blend spunbonded fibers
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  13-16.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160301505
      Abstract ( 449 )   PDF (1132KB) ( 190 )   Save
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      In order to explore influences of polylactic acid (PLA) content on the properties of PLA/PP spunbonded fibers, PLA and PP polymers were chosen as the raw materials to prepare PLA/PP spunbonded fibers using laboratory spunbond equipment. The fiber morphology, tensile, hygroscopicity, contact angle and degree of crystallization of the produced fibers were invested by using the scanning electron microscope, electronic single fibre strength tester, constant temperature oven, contact angle tester and X-ray diffraction. The results show that with the increase of PLA content in the blends fiber, the fiber strength decreases, and elongation at break increases, but the work of fracture keeps constant. The fiber moisture regain increases, the contact angle and the degree of crystallinity decreases with the increase of the PLA content. Compared with the pure PP spunbonded fiber, the degree of crystallinity of the blend fiber with PLA content of 7% decreasses 21%, but the hygroscopicity reaches pure PLA fiber level. Therefore, the addition of proper content of PLA polymer to PP polymer can improve the moesture absorption performance of the spunbonded nonwowens, without reducing the durability.

      Cotton-like co-polyester fiber industrialization in melt direct spinning of ultra-high capacity
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  17-22.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20151204006
      Abstract ( 592 )   PDF (1282KB) ( 304 )   Save
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      In order to solve the difficulties in fiber industrialization of the cotton-like co-polyester in melt direct spinning of 200,000 t/a capacity, the technology of contrallable polymerization, the simulation of melt transportation and the process of spinning and drawing in copolyester was studied. The fouth monomer sorbitol was added after first esterification reactor and the third monomer PEG was added before the final polycondensation reaction to produce stable copolyester with indexes meetingrequirements;  and by the simulation of the long-distance melt transportation, it was found that changes of the melt temperature, melt viscosity and the primary hot temperature would affect the melt viscosity drop and the melt temperature drop in the melt transportation process; and the degree of profiles would be controlled by using the cross/hollow spinneret and adjusting the melt temperature, cold blow and take-up speed. The nip twister was used in the false twisting process, thus the obtained cotton-like co-polyester fibers were stable and high in quality.

      Preparation and electrochemical characterization of composite separator for lithium-ion battery
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  23-28.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160407206
      Abstract ( 476 )   PDF (1500KB) ( 290 )   Save
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      In order to obtain a better lithium-ion battery separator with good performance, the first layer of the membrane was prepared by electrospinning poly (vinylidene fluoride-co-hexafluoropropylene) (P(VDF-HFP)) polymer solutions, then alumina and zirconia microparticles were deposited on the surface by electrostatic  electrostatic spraying, and a novel sandwiched composite membrane was formed followed by fabricate the other P(VDF-HFP) nanofibrous layer by  electrospinning. The single-layer P(VDF-HFP) separator was prepared as a comparison by electrospun at the same time. The physical performance, including morphology, permeability, liquid electrolyte uptake and thermal stability, and electrochemical properties such as ionic conductivities of membranes at room temperature, electrochemical stability, and cycling performance of the two kinds of separators were investigated. The results demonstrate that electrolyte uptake of the composite membrane is 420%, while the Gurley value and thermal shrinkage are0.117S/(100mL?cm²) , and 20.25%, respectively. Good electrolyte uptake contributes to the ionic conductivity which is up to 2.31 mS/cm at room temperature, electrochemical stabilivity window is 5.4 V, and initial cycle charge and discharge capacity of the prepared battery is 138.6 mA?h/g. Except for the small weakness in permeability, all the other properties of the composite membrane are improved. It’s found that the performance of the composite membrane is better than that of the single-layer electrospun P(VDF-HFP) separator under the same test conditions.

      Color difference comparison of colored spun yarns by different spinning processes
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  29-34.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160303006
      Abstract ( 549 )   PDF (1571KB) ( 266 )   Save
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      After colored spun yarn samples produced by one spinning method are accepted, sometimes it is not sure that the color difference between this sample and batch samples prodrced by another spinning method is accepted. In this paper, colored fiber mixtures with the same proportion were spun into yarns by ring spinning, rotor spinning and fast spinning, respectively. Then the yarns were wound onto a paper board and messured with the color measurement instrument. The color differences were compared and the reasons were discussed. The results showed that the color difference mean value of the colored yarns spun by rotor spinning process and fast spinning process is 0.36 CMC(2:1) , the color difference mean value of the colored yarn spun by ring spinning process and fast spinning process is 0.95 CMC(2:1) , and the color difference mean of the colored yarn spun by ring spinning process and rotor spinning process is 0.77 CMC(2:1) . The main reason is the different structures and surface of the yarns caused by different spinning processes, which leads to different reflectances at various wavelengths.

      Low-loss optimization of cotton/ hemp blending process
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  35-39.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160106105
      Abstract ( 412 )   PDF (1103KB) ( 249 )   Save
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      In order to reduce the loss of hemp fiber of cotton/ hemp blended yarns on cotton spinning systems, 3 experiments are designed: a pretreated cotton and hemp carding blend system, a pretreated cotton and pretreated hemp carding blend system and a pretreated cotton and hemp combing blend system, based on the equipment modification of cotton spinning systems. By comparing the loss and quality of the cotton/hemp blended yarns of 3 designed systems with original spinning systems, the optimal low-loss process derives from the pretreated cotton and hemp combing blend system, i. e. , yarns are spun by preterating the raw coton and mixing with hemp on modified opening, cleaning, carding and combing devices. The losses reduce by 16.7%, yarn evenness declines slightly but within an acceptable range and the tensile fracture properties of yarns have no significant difference. The pull rate increases from 65% to 87.1%, reducing the cost of hemp products.

      Producing process and performance of differentially dyeable mixed polyester yarn
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  40-45.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160302106
      Abstract ( 553 )   PDF (1501KB) ( 435 )   Save
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      To develop new differential polyester mixed yarn, 167 dtex/96 f full drawn yarn and 350 dtex/96 f medium oriented yarn were used as raw material,the unique cam filament-stricking post processing technique was used to draft medium oriented yarn longitudinally unevenly, and the drawn medium oriented yarn and full drawn yarn were mixed together by network injector, forming bulky and differentially dyeable along its longitudinal direction yarns with fineness of 400 dtex/192 f. The morphology, structure and dyeability of full drawn yarn, medium oriented yarn and mixed polyester yarn were tested. It is shown that the fiber in the mixed fiber yarn was cylindrical, and the fibers are different in linear density. Thickness also changes in the fiber longitudinal direction. the longitudinal orientation of mixed polyester yarn is uneven, and the difference is great. The longitudinal color depth of mixed polyester yarn is uneven, and the difference is great. The longitudinal color depth of mixed polyester yarn is different after dyeing, the color of tight part of the yarn is light while color of fluffy part is deep, and the yarn looked curly and fluffy. The tensile strength of the mixed polyester yarn is higher than that of the medium oriented yarn filament and lower than that of the full drawn yarn filament.

      Characterization of cotton linear density using window function
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  46-51.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160200806
      Abstract ( 285 )   PDF (1280KB) ( 396 )   Save
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      In order to describe the cotton linear density perfectly, the function of linear density distribution was derived based on the window function expressing longitudinal geometry of cotton. After deseeding and alkali treating, diameter variations along length of five cotton samples were tested by photomicrography and image processing and the window functions of five samples were fitted by least square method using the test data. Marking the midpoint of fiber as the specific point, the distribution density function which could character the cotton linear density completely was fitted according to the diameter data of specific point. The results show that the window function of cotton approaches to asymmetrical quadratic polynomial, the diameter variation of fibers is normal distribution, and the linear density of cotton simulated and tested has high consistency based on calculating expectation of functions and reasonable correcting.

      Influence of structures on curling performance of polyester warp-knitted fabric
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  52-0.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160101205
      Abstract ( 456 )   PDF (1412KB) ( 271 )   Save
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      For reducing the impact of fabric curling on downstream processing, the organization of different structures and the choice of draw off densities were discussed in this paper. 55.5 dtex 24f fully drawn polyester yarn was used to produce two guide bar warp-knitted fabrics with seven different structures and four different draw off densities. Then curling distances were tested and the curling reasons were analyzed through the microscope. The results showed that with the increase of draw off density, the wale and course-wise curling distance of fabric are decreased, and the effect of draw off density on course-wise curling distance is significantly greater than that of wale-wise;The course-wise curling distance of two guide bar with same direction lapping is better than that of reverse lapping; When the structure of the first guide bar remains unchanged, the wale and course-wise curling distance of fabrics, especially the course-wise curling, decrease with increasing underlap of the second guide bar; However, the wale and course-wise curling distance of fabrics increase with increasing underlap of the first guide bar when the structure of the second guide bar remains unchanged.

      Formation mechanism and influence factors of warm-cool feelingof knitted underwear fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  57-60.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160100504
      Abstract ( 1359 )   PDF (947KB) ( 378 )   Save
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      In order to explore the relationship between warm-cool feeling and the structure and mechanical properties of fabrics. The maximum transient thermal flow of 14 knitted underwear fabrics were tested by the KES-F7 tester. The influence factors were analyzed from the perspective of fabric density, fabric thickness and fabric mechanical properties on knitted fabrics contact thermal sensation. The results show that with tighter fabric structure, the still air content in the fabric will be lower, which would lead to the greater maximum transient heat flow of the fabric and stronger transient cool feeling. Fabric surface is smoother, skin and fabric contact area is larger, cool feeling will be stronger. The thicker of fabric thickness, the warm feeling will be intense. Correlation analysis of fabric maximum transient heat flow and mechanical property parameters shows that it is conducive to enhancing the fabric transient warmfeeling by reducing the fabric and skin contact area and improving the fabric bulkiness.

      Winding angle optimization of filament spiral wound pipe
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  61-66.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160105306
      Abstract ( 382 )   PDF (1093KB) ( 293 )   Save
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      More uniform strength for all layers can be achieved by variation of winding angle to improve the utilization efficiency of filament-wound (FW) pipe. An optimization model of FW pipe under uniform internal pressure and axial force is built based to Tsai-Wu failure criterion to maximize the lowest strength ratio along thickness direction. An improved optimization algorithm derived from two conventional methods (complex method and steepest descent method) is proposed by optimizing the  winding angle of the layer by layer, and the minimum strength ratio is maximized. In three cases of pure hoop stress and the ratios of hoop stress to axial stress of 2:1 and 1:1, an optimization model of pipes made of E-glass/epoxy is illustrated to evaluate the improvement of the minimum strength ratio and the uniformity of the optimized winding angle distributionunder different ratio of thickness to radius, respectively. The research shows that the material utilization can be increased by proper winding angle variation. A quite uniform distribution of strength ratio along thickness can be realized easily by the optimization of the winding angle.

      Preparation and properties of polylactic acid coated phase change material composite fabric
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  67-72.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160103406
      Abstract ( 447 )   PDF (1710KB) ( 121 )   Save
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      The PLA/phase change material nanofibers membrane was prepared by electrospinning method. In order to impeove the adhesion between nanofibers membrane and fabric, the nanofibers meinbrant was fitrsitly treated by plasma technology, and then combined with viscose fabric and wool fabric. The differences of the insulation, air permeability, moisture permeability, tensile strength and peel strength among materials after plasma treatment were discussed. The results showed that the air permeability of plasma untreated adn treated viscose viscose fiber/PLA/wool composite fabric mainly depended on wool fabric and both of them were lower than wool fabric, and the water vapor permeability were decreased 76.5% and 62.5%, respectively. The PLA nanofibers membrane played a more important role in tensile strength of plasma untreated and treated viscose fiber/PLA/wool composite fabric, and the tensile strength of which were higher than PLA nanofibers membrane. Compared to the viscose/wool composite fabric, the crow value of plasma untreated and treated viscose fiber/PLA/wool composite fabric increased by 18.07% and 17.78%, respectively. The peel strength properties of viscose/PLA/wool composite fabric subjected to plasma treatment added up to 34.3% in comparison with untreated composites.

      Sound insulation performance of bamboo/polyurethane composite
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  73-77.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160400805
      Abstract ( 377 )   PDF (1147KB) ( 284 )   Save
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      In order to give full play to renewability and biodegradability of nature bamboo fiber and reduce the environmental load of sound insulation composite material and further improve sound insulation performance of natural bamboo fiber/polyurethane composite material, a series of sound insulation composite materials were prepared in different ways using the natural environment-friendly and renewable bamboo fiber as the reinforcing material and polyurethane as base material. The influence of bamboo fiber packing modes, NaoH solution surface treatment and natural bamboo fiber content on the sound insulation composite materials was studied. The results showed that sound insulation performance of composite material with straight fibers packing is the best. Sound insulation performance is improved when fibers were treated by NaoH solution. With the natural bamboo fiber content increases, the sound insulation performance of composites increases.

      Preparation and properties of sulfooctenylsuccinylated starch used as sizing agent
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  78-82.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160103505
      Abstract ( 497 )   PDF (1136KB) ( 209 )   Save
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      To improve the properties of starch as sizing agent, sulfooctenylsuccinylated starch (SOSS) were prepared by reacting a series of octenylsuccinylated starch (OSS) with different degree of substitution with sodium bisulfite, respectively. The viscosity of sizing liquor, properties of sizing film and adhesion-to-fiber of OSS and SSOS were studied. The results showed that sulfooctenylsuccinylated starch is capable of improving the properties of starch film, enhancing the adhesion to polyester fiber and cotton fiber. With the increase in the degree of substitution value, the breaking elongation of sulfooctenylsuccinylated starch film increases, the tensile strength reduces, the adhesion to polyester fiber and cotton fiber first increases and then reduces. The adhesion to polyester fiber maximizes when the degree of substitution value is 0.035, and the adhesion to cotton fiber maximizes when the degree of substitution value is 0.027. Compared with OSS, sulfooctenylsuccinylated starch is enhanced both in the properties of sizing film and adhesion-to-fiber. The suitable degree of substitution value of OSS is 0.014 - 0.035 when SOSS is used as sizing agent.

      Influence of ultrasonic treatment on cellulase hydrolysis of bamboo powder
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  83-87.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160104905
      Abstract ( 425 )   PDF (1368KB) ( 237 )   Save
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      The complicated and compacted structure of bamboo hindered the effect of enzymatic hydrolysis when the enzymatic degumming of bamboo was carried out. Therefore, ultrasound was employed to pretreat bamboo powders prior to enzymatic treating with the purpose of improving the efficiency of cellulase hydrolysis on bamboo powder. Results from univariate analysis indicated the preferred ultrasonic pretreatment should be carried out at room temperature for 15 min with the bath ratio of 1:30, the frequency of 20 KHz, and the power of 960W. Under the same conditions, the reducing sugar yield from cellulase hydrolysis of ultrasonic-pretreated bamboo powders increased by 34.48% compared with bamboo powders without pretreatment after the incubation for 12 h. The changes in surface structure, chemical components and crystallinity of bamboo powder with and without ultrasonic pretreatment was evaluated by scanning electron microscopy, infrared spectroscopy and X- ray diffraction. The results demonstrated that the surface structure of bamboo powders is damaged,and the number of gap and pores is increased, thus the valid surface for enzyme binding increased. The crystallinity of ultrasonic treated bamboo was decreased by 11.68% but chemical structure showed no significant change. These results suggest that ultrasound pretreatment is effective and mild without changing the properties of bamboo.

      Application of light stabilizers on polyurethane leather fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  88-93.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160404506
      Abstract ( 384 )   PDF (1508KB) ( 261 )   Save
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      In order to improve the yellowing resistance of polyurethane leather fabrics, the influence of light stabilizers on the yellowing resistance of polyurethane leather fabrics was investigated by analyzing the influence of UV light on the performance and appearance of polyurethane coating film. In addition, the optimized compound admixture ratio of light stabilizers depending on the analysis and evaluation of influence of color difference value on the level of leather color change was obtained. The related process conditions were optimized by studying the influence of processes such as stamping temperature, stamping time, washing and heat setting on the yellowing resistance of polyurethane leather fabrics. The results indicate that by adding light stabilizers into polyurethane leather fabrics, the aging rate of photoengraving could be dramatically reduced and the yellowing resistance could be enhanced. When the mass of hindered amine light stabilizer LS-622 is one third of that of UV absorber UV-531, the weight is 2.0%, the stamping temperature is 100 ℃ and the stamping time is 30 s, the anti-yellowing effect of brown polyurethane leather fabrics is optimized, and the level of color change is increased to level 2 with slight color change.

      Formaldehyde-free durable press finishing of cotton fabrics with polycarboxylic acid
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  94-99.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160304206
      Abstract ( 385 )   PDF (1488KB) ( 391 )   Save
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      In order to promote the wide application of formaldehyde-free durable press finishing agent, a self-prepared polycarboxylic acid formaldehyde-free durable press finishing agent (LMP) was finish the cotton fabrics and the suitable application conditions of LMP were determined by evaluating the wrinklerecovery angle, breaking strength, tear strength and whiteness of the finished cotton fabrics in single factor experiments. The optimum conditions are as follows: LMP dosage 300 g/L, catalyst dosage 10 % of LMP, pH of 2.0~2.5, curing temperature 170 ℃ and  curing time 3 min. After finishing, wrinkle recovery angle is larger than 260 °, breaking and tear strength retention are 55.7 % and 73.1 %, respectively, whiteness decreased from 77 % to 72 %, and smoothness appearance rating approximately 3.5. Comparing with the other durable press finishing agents, the durable press performance of LMP finished cotton fabric is better than those finished with two commercial used formaldehyde-free durable press finishing agents. LMP provides almost the same level of durable press performance and laundering durability as butane tetracarboxylic acid, but less effective than modified dimethylol dihydroxy ethylene urea.

      Adsorption of tea polyphenols on cotton fabric and its antibacterial and deodorant properties
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  100-104.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160401305
      Abstract ( 628 )   PDF (1224KB) ( 290 )   Save
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      In order to develop the plant polyphenol gralth functional textiles, the influences of pH value, temperature, treatment time on adsorption amount of tea polyphenols on cotton fabric were discussed by the single factor analysis method. The cotton fabrics were cationised. The influences of modifier and alkaline agent dosage, modification temperature and time on adsorption amount of tea polyphenols on cotton fabric were analyzed. Antibacterial and deodorant performances of the cotton fabrics treated by tea polyphenols were tested. The results showed that adsorption rate of tea polyphenols on cotton fabric was 14.6% when the cotton fabric was impregnated in 6% (o. w. f) tea polyphenols solution at 40℃ for 60min with bath ratio 1:30. Cationic modification process of cotton fabric were as follows: modified agent concentration 25g/L, alkali concentration 6g/L, temperature 70℃, time 90min and bath ratio 1:30. The adsorption rate of tea polyphenols on the modified cotton fabric was 48.8%. The results of deodorizing and antibacterial tests indicate that the modified cotton fabric treated by tea polyphenols has 92.2% antibacterial activity agaist staphylococcus aureus and 90% deodorizing activity on ammonia. The modified cotton fabric treated with tea polyphenols followed by copper sulphate has 100% antibacterial activity on staphylococcus aureus and 99.9% deodorizing activity agaist ammonia.

      Influence of zinc borate/aluminum hydroxide on flame retardancy and stability of polyvinyl chloride textile structure material
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  105-110.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160301006
      Abstract ( 670 )   PDF (1680KB) ( 211 )   Save
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      In order to improving flame retardant,smoke suppressant and anti droplet properties of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) textile strucure materials, inorganic flame retardant  zinc(2ZnO ?3B2O3 ?3.5H2O) and aluminum hydroxide were synergisticto prepare flame retardant polyvinyl chloride textile structure materials. The influence of 2ZnO ?3B2O3 ?3.5H2O/Al(OH)3 on the properties of polyvinyl chloride textile structure materials were analyzed by limiting oxygen index instrument, smoke density instrument TG and SEM. The results showed that 2ZnOB ?3B2O3 ?3.5H2O/Al(OH)3 is effective in flame retardancy, smoke suppression and anti-droplet properties of polyvinyl chloride chloride textile structure material. The higher the contents of 2ZnO ?3B2O3 ?3.5H2O are, the better smoke suppressant properties of polyvinyl chloride textile structure materials. The aging treatment also influences the stability of PVC, and its limiting oxygen index value is first increased and then decreased with the thermal oxidative treatment time increasing. The limiting oxygen index value increased with the increase of photo-oxidative treatment time.

      Application of body shape analysis in observation of clothing size adaptability
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  111-115.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20151005006
      Abstract ( 519 )   PDF (1281KB) ( 274 )   Save
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      Considering the situation that effective observation of clothing size in particular groups was absent at home and abroad, observation of clothing size adaptability was proposed based on the body shape analysis. By tracing 3-D data of the human body, principal component of clothing size classification variables were selected from the data cluster and put into the national clothing size standard for validation. According to clustering distribution results of multiple sets of k-means, the optimum K value was selected combining with verified clothing size coverage and variation relationship while the value and distribution of clustering center were observed so as to describe the sample clothing size adaptability. It is demonstrated that the differences between subjects have a direct effect on the selection of size classification variables so that this method can successfully get access to the body shape development trend of subjects, clothing size coverage and variation adjustment scheme as well as the corresponding relationship of size and “shape” so as to improve the accuracy of clothing market research and production plan.

      Discrimination of homonymy patterns on Han’s traditional costumes
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  116-120.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160701705
      Abstract ( 769 )   PDF (1302KB) ( 289 )   Save
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      This research aims to explore the unique form of Han ethnic clothing homomorphic patterns. It firstly summarizes the already existing homomorphic patterns by investigating their origins, characteristics and aesthetic standards. Then, it took " Yi Lu Lian Ke" and " Lu Si Xi Lian" as examples to analyze the constructive elements, artistic expression and cultural connotations of homomorphic patterns. The study shows that the existence of Han ethnic clothing patterns is derived from objective and subjective reasons. The former is based on the people's folk customs and their inner expression needs by using the images of plants and animals. The limitation of the craftsmanship in that period enables the inaccuracy of the artistic characteristics of patterns. The latter comes from the analysis on the inaccuracy of patterns combing with their expressions and the categorizations.

      Comparative research on tradetional pouch difference between North and South regions
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  121-125.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160104605
      Abstract ( 494 )   PDF (1415KB) ( 195 )   Save
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      To research the difference of pouch color in different regions, physical colors of North and South pouch collection in Jiangnan University folk costume centre were analyzed based on Munsell color system and a conclusion of color extraction by using color analysis software was achieved. It is found that South pouch is mainly of cool color with thread color of 3 - 5 kinds. The color is manly high in clarity. South pouch is tasteful and restrained. It reflects dignified modesty. North Pouch is bright-colored and beautiful. The thread color is more than 5 types. The color is very bright by using complementary color contrast. It reflects gorgeous of its own. The reason of different artistic feature is contributed to the difference of North and South position. It causes people have their own preference with the color. The formation of color preference is the basic of color difference in South and North positions.

      Optimization of air-jet loom main nozzle air pressure based on production practice
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  126-131.  doi:10.134175/j.fzxb.20160101906
      Abstract ( 550 )   PDF (1325KB) ( 261 )   Save
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      To confirm the actual air pressures of the main nozzles and vice-nozzles for air jet loom, this paper develops an air pressure formula by using the least square method and taking JAT 710 air-jet loom as an example. Based on the allocation principle of the air-jet loom’s nozzle air pressure, 76 reasonable pieces of statistics of its actual air pressure allocations were selected from 512 ones. According to the theoretic and data analysis, the formula of the nozzle air pressure was deduced. The stepwise regression method was applied to figuring out the regression equation of the main nozzles’ air pressure, based on the weaving parameters of the woven fabrics. The deviations between the predicted and the actual air pressures of 94.67% main nozzles are within ±15%. Then another 18 allocation of reasonable nozzle air pressure are used to verify the regression equation. It turned out that their deviations are all within ±15%. The experimental results demonstrate that the regression equation can predict the allocation of nozzles air pressure reasonably and accurately so that production efficiency is improved.

      Fabric grasp planning for multi-fingered dexterous hand based on neural network algorithm
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  132-139.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160105008
      Abstract ( 591 )   PDF (1854KB) ( 327 )   Save
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      For fabric autonomous grasp of textile and garment industry, low production efficiency will be caused by manual operation. Fabric is grasped by dexterous hand in this paper. Firstly, multi-fingered dexterous hand was designed and a method of kinematics analysis was used by describing coordinates transformation relation of fingers' connecting rod. Grasp mode planning was programmed by using Radial Basis Function (RBF) nrural network method. By identifying the fabric's  geometric feature and according to the requirements of the grasp tasks autonomous grasp is realized. In the process of grasp movement, the joint space trajectory planning and Cartesian space trajectory planning were combined to ensure the dexterous hand fingers can stably and accurately reach to the grasp point. Finally, multi-finger dexterous hand and grasp planning were simulated by using MatLab/Robotics Toolbox, and the simulation results show that the design of the dexterous hand joint parameters setting is reasonable, and fabric grasp meet the requirements.

      Application of 3D printing in beating-up and shedding
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  140-146.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160304006
      Abstract ( 399 )   PDF (1737KB) ( 160 )   Save
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      In order to reduce the design cost and manufacturing difficulty of complicated textile machinery and equipment, 3D printing technology was applied to develop scale medel of its function module. Digital prototype link beating-up and shedding mechanism was designed, and the model was translated into STL format for slice processing and model package calculating, and then the optimal parameters of its 3D printing process were confirmed by analyzing and comparing some factors, such as placement directionof the model, material cosage and molding time. Scale model of the mechanism was manufactured by industrial-grade 3D printer (Dimension Elite) , and a control platform of electromechanical integration system of it was successfully developed C langrage and single chip microcomputer. The technology advantages of 3D printing in one-step shapeng not only reduce development costs and experimental difficulty of physical prototype, but also provide a new idea and reference for model display, mechanism validation, performance evaluation and reliability analysis of the textile machinery and equipment.

      Deformation simulation of double jacquard fabric with mass-spring model
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  146-151.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20151005306
      Abstract ( 360 )   PDF (1480KB) ( 221 )   Save
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      A modified mass-spring model was proposed in order to improve the structural deformation simulation of double jacquard warp-knitted fabrics. Geometrical loops models, including stitch, fall-plate and inlay, were built first based on analyzing influencing factors and features of deformation. By modifying the traditional mass-spring model, root of the loop model was referred as a mass particle, and underlaps between stitches were regarded as different kinds of springs. According to characters of double jacquard fabrics, two sets of spring systems were built with an additional set of hypothetical mass particles, correspondingly for fall-plate and inlay jacquard structures. Particles’ resultant force, motion state and deformation were calculated with Newton Second law and explicit Euler method. With the present mass-spring models and mechanical analysis method, two-dimensional deformation simulation was realized via VC++, and then was proven by comparing real sample and simulation effect.

      Elements of customer value of Men's bespoke tailoring wear
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  152-156.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160102305
      Abstract ( 374 )   PDF (1098KB) ( 199 )   Save
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      Focusing on men’s bespoke tailoring wear’s market and consumers’ needs and demands, by using the theory of customer value and customer value measurement model, the constituent elements of customer value of Chinese men’s bespoke tailoring wear were detected. By means of depth interviews of target consumers, eighteen constituent elements were drawn. Through the statistical analysis of the result of the questionnaire survey of 349 samples, five factors of Chinese men’s bespoke tailoring wear were extracted, which are quality, service, experience, individual needs, and social needs. Each of these factors contains a number of explanatory variables. The results show that the elements' detection of customer value of men's bespoke tailoring wear helps to deepen the understanding of target customers and is an important measure to meets. It is also the only rule for the enterprises to improve customer satisfaction and enhance the competitive advantages.

      Empirical research on service satisfaction between fashion buyer and designer under Showroom system
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  157-162.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20151200106
      Abstract ( 638 )   PDF (1418KB) ( 271 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problems on the weakness of the efforts on leading customer need and discovering excellent designers and the unbalance between buyers and designers, questionnaires and survey were carried out on the experienced designers and buyers. we draw a conclusion of the affect elements and their weights. The elements buyers concern about are the influence of the designers and the brand exclusivity, product assortment, order’s lead time and replenishment ability. What the designers concern about are showroom location, publicity and promotional ability of the showroom and the merchandising training service etc. Both of them hope showroom supply merchandising management courses and more efficient ordering procedure. Chinese showroom should improve their service satisfaction by strengthen the public promotional ability and training ability, so that to tighten the link between buyer and designer.

      Research progress of microbial pigments used in textile dyeing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(01):  163-168.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160203706
      Abstract ( 583 )   PDF (1532KB) ( 342 )   Save
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      In order to achieve environmental pollution dyeing, microbial pigments used as textile dyestuff were summarized based on recent researches at home and abroad. The sources of microorganisms, pigment properties, especially dyeing properties and effects were introduced according to three primary colors (red, yellow and blue). The results showed that microbial pigments could dye textiles with relatively good effects, and some main color fastness could satisfy the requirement of wearability. However, poor sunlight fastness had become a burning problem. This paper pointed out that more work should be done on the culture medium’s deflationary force, high efficiency of pigment extraction and screening of high quality strains.