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Table of Content

    15 May 2017, Volume 38 Issue 05
    • Conrol of two-phase pitch precursor and microstructure of cross-section of carbon fibers
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  1-7.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160502807
      Abstract ( 452 )   PDF (2775KB) ( 182 )   Save
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      In order to provide theory reference for structure design of high performance carbon fibers (CFs), blends of composed isotropic (IPc) and mesophase pitches in various proportions were used as precursors for CFs. A filter assembly was further used to disturb the melt flow during the spinning of precursor fibers. The phase structure of isotropic/mesophase incompatible blends on the microstructure of the resultant CFs were studied. Results showed that 15 % of IPc in the blended precursor can not prevent the open crack along the carbon fiber axis, while the split has been completely depressed in the carbon fibers when spun with 15 layers of plain-weave, in which the IPc component exhibited disorder oriented strips form to promote the zigzag connection among the graphitic microcrystal-lites along the cross-section of CFs. Shear to the extrusive pitch melt further increasing, the IPc phase exhibited a perforative structure and the open crack reappear in the cross section of CFs. When the content of IPc is 30 %, isotropic phase resists the evolution of the open crack, and an intermediate morphology between radial and random type is shown in the CFs. The similar evolution of the open crack is shown in the cross-section of CFs when the 50 layers of plain-weave is used. The results confirm the synergy effect of the incompatible phase-separation of the blends and the filter assembly on the arrangement of the graphitic microcrystallites along the cross-section of CFs.

      Structure and properties of polylactic acid-polycaprolactone/silk fibroin composite nanofibrous scaffolds
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  8-13.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160407606
      Abstract ( 598 )   PDF (2084KB) ( 452 )   Save
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      Poly(lactic acid-polycaprolactone/silk fibroin (PLA-PCL/SF) composite nanofibrous scaffolds with different mass ratios were fabricated by electrospinning. The morphologies and structures of nanofibrous mats were characterized by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR). The porosity and adsorbent behavior of the fibrous mats were also measured. The results shows that the mass ratio of PLA-PCL and SF components had obvious influence on the morphologies of nanofibrous scaffolds, and high density pores present on nanofibrous surface at mass ratios of 90:10 and 70:30 . The structure of SF in PLA-PCL/SF composite scaffolds is shanged from amorphous structure to β-sheet conformation by methanol treatment. The porosity and adsorbent behavior of the nanofibrous mats decrease with increasing SF contents in composite nanofibrous scaffolds. The water contact angle test and mouse fibroblasts cells (NIH-3T3) culture results indicate that the hydrophilicity of nanofibrous scaffolds is improved by the addition of SF for better adhesion and proliferation of NIH-3T3 cells.

      Preparation and characterization of drug-loading regenerated bacterial cellulose fiber
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  14-18.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160407505
      Abstract ( 684 )   PDF (1442KB) ( 243 )   Save
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      The regenerated bacterial cellulose(RBC)fiber used for wound dressing and having good biocompatibility was prepared by a wet spinning process,taking bacterial cellulose as raw material, adopting LiCl/Dimethylacetamide as solvent system and using water as coagulation bath. Then ciprofloxacin was used as model drug to prepare drug-loaded RBC fiber. The characterization of morphological, mechanical properties, XRD, drug loading and release performance were determined. The results shows that the RBC fiber had a groove surface structure with a diameter of about 40 μm. The tensile breaking strength of the RBC fiber is as high as 2.5 cN/dtex. X-ray diffraction results indicated that the crystal form of RBC fiber is transformed from cellulose crystalⅠto Ⅱ, and the degree of crystallinity is reduced from 66.3% to 36.2%. The drug loading and release experiments show that the RBC fiber had the highest drug loading capacity under alkaline condition, while the drug loaded RBC fiber has the largest release amount under acid condition.

      Conductive property of carbon black conductive fiber
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  19-24.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160700606
      Abstract ( 583 )   PDF (1755KB) ( 299 )   Save
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      In order to develop and extend the application of carbon black conductive fiber, the morphological structure of conductive fiber was characterized by stereo-microscope and scanning electron microscopy, and the resistance of conductive yarns in different carbon black content and fineness were tested under the standard normal atmospheric condition. The regression curves of the resistance of conductive yarns and the measuring length were drawn. The influence of heat setting temperature and washing times on the electrical properties of conductive yarns were analyzed and compared. The results show that carbon black on the surface of the fiber improves the mechanical properties of nylon fiber. The conductive properties of the fiber with higher carbon black content are better than that with low carbon black content.The resistance of conductive yarns is proportional to their length and inversely proportional to the cross section. The resistance value of the polyamide conductive yarn decreases with temperature. Yarn heat teratment temperature is not higher than 120°C. Almost no effect of washing times exists on the conductivity of conductive nylon yarn, and yarnconductive properties are stable.

      Preparation of water-absorbing composite of silk fibroin/acrylamide/acrylic acid by UV irradiation
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  25-30.  doi:10.13475/j..fzxb.20160702206
      Abstract ( 553 )   PDF (1830KB) ( 280 )   Save
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      In order to prepare water-absorbing composite of fibroin/acrylamide/acrylic acid with better biocompatibility and biodegradability, silk fibroin was introduced into the conventional water-absorbing composite of acrylamide/acrylic acid. To obtain active free radicals on silk fibroins, UV irradiation was used to activate fibroin molecules via binding hydrogen of phenolic group of tyrosine residues and alcoholic hydroxyl in serine residues. Thus, the graft copolymerization of AM and AA with silk fibroins was carried out. The composite membrane of fibroin/AM/AA were prepared by freexe-drying method. The changes in the molecular weights of fibroin materials, structure characteristics, thermal characteristics and surface morphologies of the composite fibroin emebranes under fifferent treating conditions were investigated, respectively. The water absorption and comservation properties and conservation peoperties and repeated water-absorbing performance were also evaluated. The results indicate that AM and AA are successfully grafted and copolymerized onto fibroin surfaces, leading to an increase to an increase of molecular weight of fibroin proteins. The structure characteristic of vinyl disappeared in the composite material and improved thermal stability is achieved. Meanwhile, acceptable water swelling and conservation properties along with repeated water absorption capabitity for the composite membrane are also obtained.

      Testing elasticity of spandex and bi-component filament/cotton core-spun yarn
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  31-36.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160605206
      Abstract ( 703 )   PDF (1589KB) ( 380 )   Save
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       In order to improve elastic recovery of conventional elastic core-spun yarn, 13 kinds of elastic core-spun yarn were designed taking Lycra and bi-component filament (CM800) as the core-spun yarn and cotton fiber as the outer wrapping fiber. The relationship between the pre-drafting ratio of Lycra, the linear density of core-spun yarn, repeat extension times and elastic recovery percentage of elastic core-spun yarn were studied. This study utilized yarn tensile tester to test the tensile elasticity of spandex/cotton, CM800/cotton and elastic core-spun yarn of cotton/double filament. The result shows that the greater the pre-drafting ratio of spandex, the smaller the elastic recovery percentage of elastic core-spun yarn; and with the increase of the linear density of the linear density of spandex, elastic recovery percentage of core-spun yarn firstly increases and then decreases. The elastic recovery percentage of core-spun yarn has positive linear correlation with the linear density of CM800. The elastic recovery percentage of elastic core-spun yarn was power-function associated with the repeated extension time of yarn elongation 5% and yarn constant load 200 cN. With the increase of yarn extension time, the tensile recovery percentage of elastic core-spun yarn decreases. For all the yarns, the elastic recovery percentage of CM800/cotton core-spun yarn is the greatest and the elastic recovery percentage of spandex/cotton core-spun yarn is the smallest.

      Simulation of realistic yarn-dyed fabric using colored spun yarn images
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  37-42.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160408306
      Abstract ( 572 )   PDF (1876KB) ( 182 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problem of long product design cycle and proofing time-consuming in yarn-dyed fabric, a new method was proposed for simulation of realistic yarn-dyed fabric using colored spun yarn images. Firstly, colored yarn images were capture and processed by threshold segmentation and morphological processing to obtain the yarn body. After that, the upper and lower boundaries and the center line of the yarn body were found, and then the main part of the original yarn image was obtained; Secondly, in ouder the shape of yarn on the surface of two dimensional fabric, the ellipse model and the sine curve model was applied to process image of the yarn main body. Finally, the cover relation of warp and weft yarn according to loops of dyed yarn and transformational model of fabric texture waschanged, realizing simulation of realistic striped and checked yarn-dyed fabric. Simulation results show that the proposed algorithm can simulation weaving process of different kinds of yarn-dyed fabric, and truly reflect the appearance of fabric. Parameters of loops of dyed yarn and fabric texture can be adjusted, improved the authenticity and adaptability of the present simulation algorithm.

      Preparation and properties of ethylene-tetrafluoroethylene copolymer fabric
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  43-48.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160702706
      Abstract ( 429 )   PDF (1527KB) ( 294 )   Save
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      In order to develop industrial fabrics capable of being used under harsh environmental conditions, ethylene-tetrafluoroethlene(ETFE) yarns were prepared from homemade ETFE filaments by twisting and combining folded yarns technologies. Then semi-automatic loom was used to weave plain fabrics. The width and thickness of as-prepared fabrics were about (300 ± 2) mm and 0.397mm, respectively. Universal tensile machine, fabric air permeability tester, flat fabric heat retention tester and abrasion tester were applied to characterize the properties of yarns and fabrics. The results shows that the gas permeability rate of ETFE fabric is 562.1 mm/s and the warmth retention rate is 6.77%. Moreover, 29.8MPa of warp-wise tensile strength, 19.7MPa of across-wise tensile strength and the equal level of wet-strength with dry-strength reveal good mechanical propertes of ETFE fabric. The thermal shrinkage of ETFE fabric achieves an obvious improvement with no shrink below 150℃ and only 6% shrinkage at the temperature of 200℃ after heat setting, showing a good temperature resistance. Moreover, mechanical properties of ETFE fabrics show no any deterioration after soaking in concentrated sulfuric acid and 90℃, respectively, showing excellent acid or alkaline resistant. As-prepared fabric has a great potential to be used under harsh environmental conditions.

      Design of high pattern jacquard fabric based on shaded weaves
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  49-52.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160502004
      Abstract ( 385 )   PDF (1441KB) ( 399 )   Save
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      In order to make the jacquard fabric show the shading effect as well as high pattern effect, a new design principle and method of high pattern jacquard fabric based on shaded weaves was put forward after analyzing the design method and characteristics of traditional high pattern jacquard fabric. Certain ratio of thick yarns and fine yarns and structure design of backed fabric make the jacquard fabric perfectly realize the combination of shading effect and high pattern effect. In addition, it detailed the procedure of high pattern jacquard fabric design based on shaded weaves by a design example, including pattern design and structure design. The design principle and method can be applied to the production of jacquard fabric with the shading effect and high pattern effect. So the feasibility of innovative design principle and its method is verified.

      Design and production method of cotton warp outerwear knitted fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  53-57.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160606505
      Abstract ( 432 )   PDF (1797KB) ( 212 )   Save
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      On the basis of cotton yarn and warp knitting, aiming at the problem that the mechanical properties such as cotton yaarn strength yarn strength at break and hairs were difficult to meet with the technical requirements of warp knitting, the solution to solve the technical problems of cotton yarns in warp knitting at high speed were proposed. It presented the key technologies of cotton yarns used in the warp knitting and provided the technical solutions among yarn spinning method, beaming and knitting processes. The compact yarns were selected, and the white oil was added when beaming-warping that can make the yarn hairs lodging to decrease the friction between the yarn and the loop formation elements. The cotton yarns were divided into two layers which could cut down the hairs' tangling. Finally, two warp knitted outwear products using cotton yarns were developed from the perspective of the warp structure and process design. The two-sided effect is obtained with cotton yarn as the partial weft insertion. The reason is that the front knitting guide bar and the back laying-in guide bar with cotton yarn underlap in the same direction,and the inlay evaded the knitting bar underlaps and slipped through onto the technical back of the structure. Warp twill is designed with cotton yarn as looping structure, whose guide bar is part-threaded.

      Preparation and properties of composite fabric for light-weight low temperature protective gloves
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  58-63. 
      Abstract ( 345 )   PDF (2205KB) ( 253 )   Save
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      In order to prepare the composite fabric for light-weight low temperature protective glovesusing the phase change microcapsules (MEPCM), a kind of phase change microcapsule based on n-octadecane as core and melamine-urea-formaldehyde as shell was synthesized by in-situ polymerization method, and then the microcapsules were coated to weft knitted fabric’s surface by transfer coating technique. The influences of the MEPCM mass fraction and coating thickness on the properties of the compound fabric were discussed, and the dispersion of MEPCM, heat storage and low temperature resistance performance of the compound fabric was tested and analyzed. The results shows that the optimal preparation process of the composite fabrics is that the coating thickness is 1.1 mm and the mass fracton of MEPCM, water and adhesive are 40%, 10% and 50%, respectively, and the time that the initial temperature of the internal environment drops to 0 °C of the composite fabric in the environment of -40℃ and -80℃ are 397 s and 206 s. The compound fabric can meet the needs of short-time low temperature operation and bring a certain degree of protection.

      Compression fatigue resistance of automobile cushion fabric based on three-dimensional warp-knitted spacer structure
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  64-68.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160603505
      Abstract ( 372 )   PDF (1571KB) ( 248 )   Save
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      Three-dimensional automobile cushion were designed and prepared to study compression fatigre resistance. Spun polysulfonamide yarn was chosen to wave surface layers and polyvinylidene fluoride filament to wave spacer structure. Four kinds of weave structures were designed based on different combinations of plain, hexagonal and diamond weave. And the thickness was adjusted on the basis of one structure. Six kinds of samples with different layers and thickness were designed and the compressive properties of the samples were tested. Then, compression fatigue resistance curve and damage pattern were analyzed and compared, and the relevant parameters influencing the compression properties were studied. The result shows that the denser the surface structure is, the better the fixation of spacing filaments, and the heavier load the fabric will support, and the better the compressive properties and in a certain range, the greater the thickness is, the better compressive properties.

      Structural damage evaluation of three-dimensional braided composite based on damage index
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  69-74.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160407906
      Abstract ( 528 )   PDF (1695KB) ( 276 )   Save
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      The carbon nanotube embedded in the three-dimensional braided composite material were used as stretch sensors to construct intelligent composites. The damage of three-dimensional braided composite material was studied by using principal component analysis(PCA), and statistical methods of T2 and Q. The method of PCA was used to process the damage information of intelligent 3-D braided composites parts. The specimen without damage was used as a reference value to establish PCA model. The steps of three-dimensional braided composites damage evaluation was proposed. It shows that deviation of damage index (T2 and Q) and the reference value can describe and express the structural damage degree of the specimens. The damage index of damaged sample is far greater than the reference value of sample without damage. Damage index value T2 reflects the large damage of specimens well. Damaged index value Q reflects the damage detail of sample. The results of the method consistent with the actual damage.

      Sizing properties of feather keratin-graft-polyester/cotton warp yarns poly (acrylic acid-co-methyl arylate) for polyester/cotton warp yarns
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  75-79.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160705106
      Abstract ( 460 )   PDF (1798KB) ( 167 )   Save
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      In order to impart good application properties of feather keratin sizes to high-polyester warp yarns, methyl acrylate (MA) and acrylic acid (AA) monomers at various molar ratios were simultaneously grafted onto the molecular chains of native feather keratin under the same monomer concentration. A series of feather keratin-g-P(AA-MA) with different molecular structure were prepared and then used to size polyester/cotton(T/C65/35) warp yarns. Sizing properties of the feather keratins were evaluated in terms of tensile strength increasing rate, tensile elongation edcreasing rate, abrasion-resistance number, and the hairiness amount of the sized yarns. The results show that the sizing properties of the feather keratin to high-polyester warp yarns can be obviously improved by the introduction of appropriate amount of PMA grafted branches. Compared with the unsized T/C yarns, the yarns sized by the feather keratin-g-P(AA-MA) with good water-solubility, which molar ratio of MA/AA monomers is 20:80, exhibit better properties. The tensile strength of the sized yarns is increased by 19.27% while the tensile elongation is decreased by only 19.76%. The abrasion number of the sized yarns is about twice as high as that of the unsized yarns. In addition, the hairiness amount of the yarns sized by the grafted keratin is decreased to a large extent.

      Low-temperature pretreatment of cotton fabric approached by combining enzyme treating and peroxide bleaching in one bath
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  80-85.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160706806
      Abstract ( 575 )   PDF (1735KB) ( 178 )   Save
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      To enhance the performance of saving energy and reducing waste water effluent of cotton pretreatment, the processes of enzymatic desizing (ED), enzymatic scouring (ES) and activated peroxide bleaching (APB) were combined into one bath at neutral pH to pretreat cotton fabric at low temperature (e.g. 50 °C). The optimal combination of ED, ES and APB was achieved by investigating size residual, water absorbency, degree of whiteness and degree of polymerization of cotton fabric treated by various combined processes. For the purpose of comparison, cotton fabric was also pretreated by ED, ES and APB in a three-bath three-step process as well as by ED and traditional peroxide bleaching (TPA) in a two-step process. Experimental results showed that, in the one-bath combined processes, the one-bath two-step process that was constructed with ED in the first step and ES and APS in the second step exhibited the optimal performance on pretreatment of cotton fabric. In comparison with ED and TPA in the two-bath two-step process, the cotton fabric pretreated by this one-bath two-step process had equivalent residual size and degree of whiteness, slightly inferior water absorbency, and significantly reduced fiber damage.

      Synthesis and application performance of polyacrylate modified silica sol
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  86-92.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160706907
      Abstract ( 433 )   PDF (1913KB) ( 204 )   Save
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      In order to develop a new type of superhydrophobic finishing agent, silicon sol was prepared by sol-gel method using methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS) as raw material. It was then modified by synthetic polymers prepared from lauryl acrylate (LA), acrylonitrile (AN) and 3-methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane (KH 570). Finally polyacrylate modified silicon sol (PLAKS) was successfully obtained, and was applied to super hydrophobic finishing of polyester fabrics. The structure of the PLAKS and application performance were investigated by Fourier transform infrared spectrum( FT-IR) , atomic force microscope(AFM) and contact angle meter, respectively. The results show that PLAKS is obtained when mass ratio of LA to AN to KH570 is 20:10:0.6, the amount of MTMS is 20 % (in terms of  the whole mass of LA, AN and KH570),  ammonia (with the mass content of 25%) is 12 %(in terms of the whole mass of LA, AN and KH570, and the treated fabric surface achieveds superhydrophobicity. The water contact angle of the treated fabric is 151.3° , the hydrophobic rating is 100, and the hydrostatic pressure resistance rating is 5.After washing for 15cycles, the water contact angle of the fabric is 134.4°, the hydrophobic rating is 90, and the hydrostatic pressure resistance rating is 4. It is indicated that the hydrophobicity of PLAKS treated fabric is washable.

      Preparation of photo-catalysis self-cleaning coating fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  93-97.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160706006
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      To solve the durability problem of self-cleaning fabrucs and simplify the process, acrylic resin and nano TiO2 were used to prepare self-cleaning textile. Self-cleaning woven polyester fabrics were prepared by different coating processes, and the degradation of methylene blue was used to evaluate self-cleaning properties thereof. Scanning electron microscope (SEM) and energy dispersive spectrometer (ESD) were used to analyze morphological structures and elementary composition of coating fabrics' surface, respectively. Experimtntal data shows the self-cleaning properties are influenced by different coating processes, and self-cleaning property of fabric improves if more TiO2 is used in limited range. When the dosage of TiO2 reached 30 g/L, self-cleaning property has no lbbious increased with the content of TiO2 increased. The self-cleaning properties of fabrics maintaining well after different types and different times of rubbing fastness tests.

      Hydrophilic modification of polypropylene nonwoven fabrics by UV curing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  98-103.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160505006
      Abstract ( 478 )   PDF (1806KB) ( 280 )   Save
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      To extend its application in the field of water treatment, polypropylene (PP) nonwoven fabrics were modified by ultraviolet (UV) light initiated free radical polymerization between acrylic resin and polyethylene glycol (400) diacrylate (PEG (400) DA) for the improvement of hydrophilicity. The influence of mass fraction of prepolymer, hydrophilic monomer and photo initiator on the hydrophilicity of modified PP nonwoven fabric were studied. The results show that when the acrylic resin, PEG (400) DA and 184 mass fraction are 7 %, 13 % and 1 % respectively, the modified PP nonwoven fabrics possess the best hydrophilicity and hydrophilic durability. The scanning electron microscope (SEM) results show that the surfaces of PP fibers are firmly coated with the hydrophilic modifier. The PP nonwoven fabrics subjected to hydrophilic modification has good anti-contamination performance and good acid and alkali resistance.

      Anti-crease finishing of ramie fabrics with citric acid and polyol
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  104-109.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160107006
      Abstract ( 530 )   PDF (1780KB) ( 305 )   Save
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      In order to overcome the shortcomings of yellowness by anti-wrinkle finishing of ramie fabric with citric acid, the polycarboxylic acid and polyol mixed finishing process of ramie fabric was studied. Owing to the reduction of aconitic acid and other unsaturated acid by the esterification reaction between citric acid and polyol during the baking stage, the whiteness of the finished ramie fabric significantly improved. The influences of the type of alcohol, concentration of citric acid, mole ratio of citric acid and glycerol, and curing process were investigated. The results indicated that the optimum finishing results are obtained by the polycarboxylic acid and polyol mixed finishing process when the mole ratio of glycerol and citric acid is 2:1 and mass concentration of citric acid is 4 %, the mass concentration of sodium hypophosphite is 5.5 %, the mass concentration of JFC is 1 g/L, the drying temperature is 100 ℃, the curing temperature is 175 ℃, and the curing time is 3 min. The finished ramie fabric has crease recovery angle 194 °, CIE whiteness 76.83 % and breaking strength 375 N.

      Calculating method of characteristics girth of young female body by 3-D scanning data
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  110-114.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160507305
      Abstract ( 754 )   PDF (1396KB) ( 377 )   Save
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      In order to test the feasibility og predicting the circumference of the body by the width and thickness of the body's characteristic position, 330 young women aged 20 to 26 years old were taken as samples for study. Based on 3-D body scanning data, the horizontal section of chest circumference and lwoer chest circumference, waist circumference, abdominal circumference and hip circumference of five body feature parts were obtained by Imageware software.The width and thickness of the horizontal section were measured and the ratio was calculated. Characteristic coefficient was introuced to divide the characteristic parts into six categories, and the correlation analysis on the characteristics of girth and its width and thickness was done to verify the feasibility of the two linear regression equation design. Regression equation of characteristics of girth was established and verifiede by categories. Test results shwo that measuerments predicted by the method has an error of ± 2 cm with numbers measured by 3-D scanning measuring and the average error is within 0.7cm.

      Dating research on three development stages of Qipao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  115-121.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160600907
      Abstract ( 1385 )   PDF (1974KB) ( 440 )   Save
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      According to the present situation that contemporary historiography research of Qipao concentrates more on literature research than on empirical research, baed on the "samples", the structural change of Qipao in three periods by textual criticism of both literature and samples was explored. Conparative study was carried out between conclusion, which was on systematic measurement and structure diagram restoration of collections in Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology National Costume Museum and main folk collections, and literatures on Qipao structure from 1920s to 1970s. By means of structure restoration study, the mutual restriction between material and structure in the structural change and edvelopment of Qipao is found. Besides, three conclusions are drawn on it' s typical characteristic on three periods, which is an impoutant reference for research on Qipao structure and effective supplement to historical research of traditional costume.

      Clothing style recognition approach using Fourier descriptors and support vector machines
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  122-127.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160504706
      Abstract ( 588 )   PDF (1667KB) ( 255 )   Save
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      In the current clothing style recognition field, clothing contour feature extraction technique was complicated, classification efficiency was low and adaptability was poor. In order to solve these problem and recognize the clothing styles, a novel approach was proposed. In this approach, the contours were extracted from the clothing images, which were taken from the newly created sample database. Then the contour features were described by Fourier descriptors(FD). Finally, the clothing styles were classified by multiclass support vector machines(SVM). The experimental results show that this novel approach can accurately extract the contours of clothing. The recognition effect of the Fourier descriptors is better than the Hu moment invariant and feature fusion (Hu moment invariant and Fourier descriptor). Principal component analysis of FD can’t improve the recognition accuracy, and the classification effect of SVM is better than ELM. This approach can achieve a recognition rate above 95%. In particular, contour features obvious style has a better recognition rate.

      Numerical simulation of influence of groove type on flow field knside rotor
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  128-133.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160304807
      Abstract ( 411 )   PDF (2135KB) ( 179 )   Save
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      The influence of groove type on high speed airflow during rotor spun yarn was investigated. Airflow speed and static pressure in four types of groove, such as G, T, U and S of the 36 mm diameter rotor, were studied by Fluent software. The results show that under the same conditions, speeds in four groove size are G>T>U>S within the range from 0° to 360°.  in groove. At 0° and 360° position, the static pressures are G>S>U>T. While for the rest of the angle position, the static pressures are S>U> T>G. Taking T groove as example, static pressures within the transfer channed are between  -32886.15Pa and 18224.56 Pa, static pressures within the rotor are between  -13719.63 Pa and -7330.80 Pa . The airstream accelerated from the transfer channel inlet to the outlet with the decrease of the pipe, and reached the largest value to 261.81m/s at the outlet.

      Time series analysis and design for level-cut-loop tufting machine
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  134-138.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160304905
      Abstract ( 738 )   PDF (1454KB) ( 219 )   Save
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      The basic research on carpet tufting technology is relativelly weak in China, and the guiding ideology and basic theory of tufting machine design were provided. The sequential relation of needle and looper in level-cut-loop (LCL) tufting machine was proposed according to the design method of phase circle and the technological requirements of general cut carpet tufting machine. The sequence chart of LCL carpet tufting machine was acquired by studying the loop-forming process under the circumstances in continuous loop pile, continuous cut pile and alternating loop and cut pile. It is showed that the latch should close upon the looper at the time which is slightly ahead the looper’s far stop time when a loop pile is tufted, and separate from the looper at leastbefore the looper’s far stop time when a cut pile is tufted. Owing to the motion of latch in the LCL carpet tufting machine is electrically controlled, and it is independent from the spindle drive movement system of needle, looper and knife, and the time sequence analysis and design provides the foundation for the machine design of loop-forming mechanism and the electrical design of control system.

      Experimental research on deposition process of micro-droplet jet printing on fabric surface
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  139-144.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160602206
      Abstract ( 346 )   PDF (2011KB) ( 178 )   Save
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      During deposition forming fine conductive circuit on fabric surface, micro-droplet jet printing droplets collision and penetration process on fabric surface are determined to premise to form a high quality conductive circuit. Using experimental research methods, under the controlled injection condition of the injection system, the dynamic peocess of the droplets collision, deposition and penetration on the fabric surface were captured and studied. The results show that droplets collision on the fabric substrate surface is similar to the solid substrate, and penetrantion phenomenon almost does not occur. As the effect of capillary pressure difference, different fabrics in different periods have penetration rate increasing sharply, rapid wicking phenomenon appears. The small the thread count, the more obvious wicking effect. Droplets diffusion shapes on the fabric surface are determined by the structure of the fabric. The area of diffusion is related to fabric wettability, and it decreaes with weakened wettablity.

      Fabric defect detection based on relative total variation model and adaptive mathematical morphology
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  145-149.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160604706
      Abstract ( 503 )   PDF (2017KB) ( 369 )   Save
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      Because of the variety of fabric texture and the uncertainty of the shape and size of defects, the existing fabric defect detection methods based on image processing are low in accuracy. In order to solve this problem, a new method of fabric defect detection based on structure-texture model and the adaptive mathematical morphology was designed. The fabric texture was firstly filtered based on the relative total variation model, then, the gray morphological operation based on adaptive neighborhood was directly performed on the gray level image, which is morphological operatio, finally the enhanced image of fabric defects was obtained. The algorithm based on the relative total variation model and the adaptive mathematical morphology as well as the other two known algorithms based on Gabor filter was carried out on 4 types of fabric defects with high frequency, and the results show that the method can more effectively extract the fabric defects.

      Influence of channel synergy on channel performance of brand children’s garment
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  150-156.  doi:13475/j.fzxb.20160507507
      Abstract ( 231 )   PDF (1912KB) ( 152 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problems of brand children’s garment enterprises channel conflicts to improve channel performance,channel performance and channel synergy capability grade were classified, according to the study of OTO marketing channel conflicts, channel synergy capability and channel performance and the channel synergy dimension. Based on the theoretical analysis, research hypoghesis was put forward and a logical model was built. Based on the questionnaire survey data,   channels synergy was used as mediator, and the multiple regression method was used to empirically analyze the influence of brand children's garment business channels synergy on channel performance. The results show that the five dimensions of channel synergy have significant positive effect on channel performance. Channel synergy capability and channel performance bave significant positive correlation. Channel synergy capability between the channel synergy and channel performance plays partial mediating effect. Therefore, the brand children's garment enterprises should use collaborative channels to resolve channel conflict and improve channel synergy capability and channel performance.

      Competition and cooperation model construction and application in dual marketing channel for brand apparel
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  157-162.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160507206
      Abstract ( 417 )   PDF (1743KB) ( 351 )   Save
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      For apparel enterprises'lffline and online marketing channels for joint sale, competition and cooperation model within dual-channel was built by using the theory of differential equation (hereinafter referred as coefficient model) and the mathematical model of online and offline sales with cooperation coefficient was deduced. The dual-channel sales of Uniqlo and Qiushuiyiren were used as the empirical data. The results show that both of store model for the policy of Uniqlo and improved model for the policy of Qiushuiyiren are in a state of win-win cooperation. The coopetition model can measure the competition and cooperation relationship under online and offline channels of the brand chothing objectively. Finally the dual-channel sales trend graphs of Uniqlo and Qiushuiyiren was combined with the model forecast to analyze the integration strategy for apparel enterprises with online and lffline channels so as to provide reference for brand apparel enterprises during dual-channel integration management.

      Research development on scouring and bleaching of flax rove in supercritical caubon dioxide
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  163-169.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160502107
      Abstract ( 414 )   PDF (1988KB) ( 152 )   Save
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      Technical processes of chemical method, chemical and biological mixing method and biological enzymatic method for flax rove’s scouring and bleaching were summarized. In order to solve the existing problems of long process , high water and energy consumption and severe environmental pollution, scouring and bleaching technique for flax rove in supercritical CO2 fluid was proposed. The characteristics of supercritical CO2 fluid and the application of enzyme in supercritical CO2 fluid were analyzed. Base on the first supercritical CO2 scouring and bleaching apparatus for flax rove in China, scouring and bleaching of flax rove was elaborated in reaction vessel under different temperature fields, pressure fields as well as fluid fields using xylanase and hemicellulase as the compounded biological enzymes in supercritical state. It is pointed out that several exploration work should be conducted, according to characteristics of scouring and bleaching method in supericritical CO2.

      Development and trend of evaluation and prediction model of clothing dynamic insulation
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(05):  170-176.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160405407
      Abstract ( 391 )   PDF (2022KB) ( 334 )   Save
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      To explore the influence of wind and body movement on clothing insulation, firstly, thermal convection between human body and environment was pointed out and the fact that wind and body movement have significant influence on clothing insulation was clarified based on theory analysis and existing research data. Then, the test methods of dynamic thermal is sulation, including human test and thermal manikin test, were summarized. Qualitative analysis of resultant insulation indicates that the thermal is sulation of clothing tends to decline under wind and body movement. Also, the influence of wind and body movement put on thermal resistance is weakened gradually with the increase of wind and body movement. Lastly, prediction models of dynamic insulation values were summarized according to different types of clothing. Future research on prediction model for clothing dynamic insulation will make breakthrough in optimizing the correction model and local dynamic insulation.