Table of Content

15 April 2017, Volume 38 Issue 04

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Preparation of electrospun nanofiber arrays by reactive ion etching

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  1-5.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160406505

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In order to develop a simple and efficient method for preparing functional nanofiber array, electrospinning and reactive ion etching were combined to prepare regular electrospun nanofiber arrays. The influence of fiber film thickness and mask size on the formed fiber microstructures, as well as the biocompatibility of the fiber arrays as the cell culture substrate were investigated. he results show that highly ordered nanofiber arrays are produced by O2 reactive ion etching nanofiber films with co treatment of the electrospun nanofiber mats with copper grid as mask. The size and structure of the fiber arrays can be controlled according to the mask. Two dimensional uniform net-like arrays and three dimensional bird-nest-like fiber arrays formed, respectively, while the fiber films prepared by electrospinning for 30 min and 120 min are etched. NIH3T3 cell culture experiments suggest that cells have good adhesion and growth on the three dimensional fiber substrate, which indicates the produced fiber array has high biocompatibility.

Preparation and propertirs of polyacrylonitrile nanofiber membranes used for air filtering by electrospinning

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  6-11.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160502406

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In order to develop nanofibers for air filtering, polyacrylonitrile (PAN) nanofiber membranes were prepared by electrospinning. The influence of spinning solution concentration and electrospinning voltage on microstructure of the electrospun nanofibers, as well as the infouence of membrane thickness on filtration efficiency and pressure drop were investigated. The results shown that when the concentration of PAN spinning solution is 12 wt% and the voltage was 20 kV, the well-distributed nanofibers with mean diameter of 230 nm can be formed. The pressure drop increased from 121.93 Pa to 591.75 Pa when membrane thickness increased from 18 μm to 35 μm, while the filtration efficiency of DOP aerosol particle sized 0.33 μm raised from 81.78% to 99.24%. Besides, mechanical properties and pore size distribution determined by the fiber diameter with the better filtration efficiency were tested. Results revealed that its elastic modulus is 223.67 MPa, elongation at break is 51.96%, tensile fracture stress is 5.93 MPa, tensile strength is 7.77 MPa, tensile yield stress is 2.79 MPa, and the average pore size tested by bubble pressure method is 2.0643 μm.

Preparation and properties of reinforcing and toughened polylactic acid fiber

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  12-16.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160604005

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In order to reinforce and toughen polylactic acid (PLA) fiber, polyamide (PA) was blended with PLA, and then spun. The thermal property, crystallization, heat stability, dispersibility of PA and mechanical property of PLA/PA fiber were studied. The results show that the addition of PA has no significance effect on the glass transition temperature and melting temperature of PLA, but the crystallization behavior of PLA is improved, and the degree of crystallinity enhances by 551.6%. The heat stability of PLA was improved with the increasing of the content of PA, and the dispersibility of PA is very uniform in PLA. With the increasing of draft ratio, the orientation degree and mechanical property of PLA/PA fiber are enhanced. When the draft ratio increased from 1.5 to 3.0, the orientation degree and breaking strength of PLA/PA fiber enhanced 30.88% and 48.58%, respectively. When the content of PA is 1% and 20%, the breaking strength of PLA/PA fiber increased 8.6% and 25%, and elongation at break of PLA/PA increases by 10.9% and 55.9%, respectively.

Simulation and verification of fiber deameter re-increasing in melt blowing process

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  17-21.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160500505

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In order to directly express the attenuation effect of the air on the fiber in the melt blowing process, the fiber motion in the melt blowing was numerically simulated. Firstly, the fiber in the melt blowing was regarded as deads which connected by Maxwell elements. Then, given air velocity and air temperature were applied to the fiber model. The information such as fiber velocity and fiber diameter in the melt blowing was predicted by this simulation via Lagrange method. The simulation results showed that in the process that the fiber is far away from the spinneret, the air fiber gradually weadened as the air velocity and air temperature gradually decreased. The fiber retracts under viscoelastic force when the air flow force was less than the wiscoelastic force of the fiber, which macroscopically shows the fiber diameter re-ncreasing. Finally, the fiber diameters were off-line measured under certain experimental conditions, and the reault also indicates the fiber diameter re-increasing phenomenon in melt blowing process.

Preparation and photocatalytic property of TiO2 NTs nanotubes

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  22-26.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160407005

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In order to improve the photocatalytic property of TiO2, TiO2 nanotubes (TiO2 NTs) were firstly synthesized on the titanium foil substrate by electrochemical anodic oxidation precess, and Ag and CdS co-modified TiO2 nanotubes (Ag-CdS/TiO2NTs) were prepared by successive ionic layer adsorption and reaction (SILAR) . The phase composition, morphology and optical properties of the samples were characterized by the X-ray diffraction, field emission scanning electron microscopy transmission electronmicroscipy, energy-dispersive spectroscopy and UV-Vis diffusion reflection spectroscopy, and its photocatalytic activity was also studied. The result indicated that  Ag and CdS nanoparticles are successfully deposited on the TiO2 NTs. Compared with the absorption spectra of the TiO2 NTs, the Ag-CdS/TiO2 NTs extended their light absorption range to the whole visible-light region. Ag-CdS/TiO2NTs has higher degradation rate of methyl (MO), compared with CdS/TiO2 NTs or pure TiO2 NTs.

Solubility and spectral characteristic of feather and down in different dissolution systems

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  27-31.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160407305

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In order to develop and utilize feather and down protein resources, the solubility of feather and down was studied firstly in different dissolution systems including trenary solvent, lithium bromide and ionic liquid ([Amim]Cl), and the solubility under different process parameters was tested, and the morphological changes of feather in the process of dissolution were monitored by automatic image acquisition and recognition system. The results show that feather and down have low solubility while being dissolved with ternary solvents and lithium bromide, but could be dissolved completely in the [Amim]Cl ionic liquid; at the same time, the [Amim]Cl dessolution system of faether and down has been analyzed by UV-Vis and FT-IR. The UV-Vis results show that a characteristic absorption exist at a wavelength of 312 nm and the quantitative analysis curve of protein is given; and FT-IR results show that desulfide bond of feather and down protein can be destroyed, without destroying the protein conformation when being dissolved in the ionic liquid of [Amim]Cl. 

Detecting method of foreign fibers in seed cotton using double illumination imaging

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  32-38.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160405207

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Aiming to improve the efficiency of detection the foreign fibers, a new approach of detecting foreign fibers in cleaned seed cotton before the ginning stage was proposed. In the experiment, cleaned seed cotton, in which organic impurities such as boll shells, stems and leaves were removed, and 21 kinds of common white or color foreign fibers were used as detection samples. Images were acquired under the double illmination of white LED and red line-laser. Then, an improved Sobel edge edtection algorithm was used in the Red channel of RGB color space and the Saturation channel in HSI color space separately. And a one-dimension maximum entropy thresholding method was also implemented in the Saturation channel for increasing the successful detecting rate. Expeiment results indicate that the double illumination imaging and the image processing algorithm reduce interference such as shadows. The successful detecting rates of white and color foreign fibers are up to 74.7% and 70.8%, respectively. This paper provides a reference for detecting forgign fibers in seed cotton.

Simulating design for draft ratio of back drafting zone on drawing frame

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  39-45.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160505507

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Inorder to determine the draft ratio of back drafting zone of different slivers during drawing process efficiently, the tensile method was used to simulate drafting of the back drafting zone on a drawing frame. Cotton, polyester and rayon slivers were used in the experiments, reapectively. The results show that tensile curves and drafting force-drawing multiple curves are very similar. The draft ratio translated from the crutical elongation in tensile stress-strain curve is very close to the one calculated from the fitting cubic equation of the experimental data in the drafting force test when the maximum drafting force occurs, and the coeficient of the variation of the drafting force and output slivers unevenness are both low at the critical draft ration. The draft ratio of back drafting zone, therfore, can be designed according to the tensile curves. The result provides a certain reference for the rapid offline design on the draft ratio of the back drafting zone on drawing frame.

Relationship bepure cotton fabruc's wrinkle recovery angle and its organizatonal structure parameters

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  46-49.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160404304

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In order to potimize the crease propety of pure cotton fabric from its weave structure, fiestly,fabric's weave structure parameters were designed and fabrics were woven, then the winkle recovery angles were measured by digital wrinkle-recovery tester. On this basis, the linear regression equations among the fabric's warp, weft and total wrinkle recovery angles weave structure parameters were established, which included warp and weft yarn linear density, warp and weft yarn twist, warp density and weft density. The relationship between fabric's wrinkle recovery angle and weave structure parameters was analyzed. The results indicate that the absolute error of the regression equation between calculated values and measured values about wrinkle recovery angle is smaller than 0.61°, and the regression equation bas gigher practicability. Warp and weft yarn twist, warp and weft yarn linear density have the greatest impact on fabric's cerase recovery, and gence the fabrec's crease resistance can be improved by increasing the yarn twist and reducing the yarn linear density.

Design of 3-D woven fabric selvage modeling process

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  50-54.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160401105

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In order to satisfy the market needs to different kinds of 3-D woven fabric, and improve the adaptability of the multi-rapier loom for products, the paper proposed a novel modeling process named silvage modeling for weaving 3-D woven fabric on the molti-rapier loom, based on the analysis on the existed advantages and disadvantages of various modeling processes. Combining with the need of the novel process, this paper improved the structural design of the selvage and beating-up system in current multi-rapier loom. Meanwhile, it simply introduced the weaving process of the novel process. By weaving cylinder replition fabric on a small sample loom, a cylinder repletion fabric was woven according to the selvage modeling process. The results show that the application of the salvage modeling process in weaving composite preform can improve the adaptability of the loom to more fabric product types to a certain extent. In addition, it can solve the problem that  the loom couldn't weave large-wall thickness hollow woven fabric due to the restructions of the layer number.

Tensile characteristics of warp knitted spacer fabrics

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  55-60.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160604206

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In order to investigate the tensile characteristics of warp knitted spacer fabrics, four fabric samples with different structures were subjected to tensile performance testing. The breaking strength, breaking elongation and tensile vurve characteristics of the fabric samples and the upper and lower surface layers thereof were analyzed, and the tensile mechanism and three dimensional scale change law of the warp knitted spacer fabrics were explatned. The influence of tensile strength and breaking elongation were discussed in terms of fabric layers. The results show that therr dimension change laws of the spacer fabric has different regular paterns, and the spacer fabric with lower breaking elongation would break up firstly. The spacer layer has no influence on tensile strength and breaking elongation but extendes the tensile progress. The tensile stength and breaking elongation of the surface layer decide the spacer fabric tensile property.

Whole garment knitting process on four-bed computerized flat knitting machine

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  61-67.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160401707

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Aining at problems of exiating sweater production on incapable of integrally forming and needing of linking and stitching, the paper studied a whole garment knitting process of the four-bed computerized flat knitting machine. Based on the working principles of the needle bed, the machine head cam system, the tension device and the yarn feeding and guiding device, the paper analyzed the forming knitting princepoes of the flat stitch, the ribbed stitch and the open end, uses chassic sweater as example, and discusses its structure forming method on the four-bed comprterized flat knitting machine. Tt is found that the computerized flat dnitting machine configures based on four bed can perform all-needles tubular knitting on the sweater; and the basis of the whole garment knitting process on the four-bed computerized flat knitting machine is tubular knitting, including tubular poain knitting, tubular rib knitting and open-end knitting. Finally, it is found that typical whole garments such as sweater with long sleeve and turtle neck, long sleeve cardigan and sleeveless sweaters can be knitted on the four-bed computerized flat knitting machine by properly choosing the dnitting direction and configuring the yarn feeder.

Oxidation resistance and thermal stability of fatty acid esters lubricant agent in spinning oil

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  68-72.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160404005

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In order to improve the oxidation resistance and tjermal stability of spinning oil, the oven accelerated oxidation method is used to stimulate the temperature environment of oil ester used in the actual fiber production process. The oxidation resistance of pentaerythritol oleate added with five kinds of phenolic antioxidants wer studied by acid value (AV), peroxide value (POV), thermogravimetry-differential scanning calorimetry (TG-DSC), etc. The result shows that the addition of antioxidant can improve the thermal stability of fatty acid esters, decrease thermal decomposition smoke emission and improve the oxidation resistance of spinning oil effectively. Firstly, the antixidants can inhibit the increase of the acid value and peroxide value of the geated oil ester significantly, and the antioxidant A shows the best anti-oxidation effect on pentaerythertol oleate. Secondly, the analysis results of thermogravimetry-differential scanning calorimetry show that when the addition amount of antioxidants A is 0.4% −1.0% in oil ester, the effect is optimal, and the decomposition temperature of weight loss of 50% in the thermogravimetric curve is increased by 13.23°C, and the oxidation induction temperature is increased by 39°C. 

Knitted fabric winding tension of cold pad batch dyeing

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  73-79.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160504607

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In order to solve the problem of dyeing color difference due to seam allowance during cold pad batch dyeing, focused on knitted fabric, the paper analyzed the reasons for the formation of seam allowance imprint, used the theory of thick wall tube and iteration law to analyze the force of knitted fabric in the process of winding, and established a mathematical model for the winding of knitting fabric. The paper analyzed the values of residual tension and radial pressure under constant winding tension and taper winding tension, and established the model under power function winding tension taking the control of seam allowance imprint as the goal and accounting for the roll shape of knitted fabric. It is concluded that the radial pressure under power function winding is much smaller than the constant tension and taper winding, and the smlller exponent of the power function, the more uniform distribution of the residual tension, the smaller radial pressure, which is conductive to the control of seam allowance imprint to obtain high quality dyed fabric, providing the reference in the design of winding tension for cold pad batch dyeing of knitted fabric.

Discoloration property for pH-sensitivity of fabric dyed by turmeric

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  80-84.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160404905

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In order to develop pH-sensitive color changing fabrics, the influence of pH on the color change of fabrics of fabrics dyed by turmeric were studied. The main chemical compositions of dye extracted from turmeric were analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The absorption spectra of turmeric solution at different pH values were tested. The dye uptake and the color fastness of fabric dyed by trumeric were measured. The color changing properties at different pH values of samples of samples dyed by turmeric were evaluation by means of the values of CIELAB. The results show that the main chemical component of vegetable dye extracted from turmeric is curcumin. The curcumin molecules are ionized into anions under alkaline conditions, and the color of curcumin changes. With the pH value of the solutions increasing, the absorption peaks of the trumeric extraction solution have red shift and the absorption intenstity increases. The color of the turmeric extraction solution is yellow under acid condition. When the pH wvlue of the cxtracted liquid is greater than 8, the solution color is reddish brown. The dyeing property of curcumin for silk fabric is better than for cotton fabric. The color of fabric dyed by curcumin has a significant change when the pH walue is changed from neutrality to alkality. The hue value becomes lower, and the fabric color changes from yelow to red.

Preparation and properties of super-hydrophobic polyester fabric by vacuum evaporation

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  85-89.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160600306

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In order to achieve the simple priparation durable and super-hydrophobic polyester fabrics, polytetrafluoroethylene with low surface energy were evaporation-coated on polyester fabrics subjected to alkali pretreatment by physical vapor deposition. Scanning electron microscope, contact angle test, friction test and thermal analyzer were used to characterize microstructure, wettability, durability of coated fabrics and thermal stability of films. By designing single factor test and orthogonal test, the relationship between factors and hydrophobic properties was analyzed. The results showed that the order of factors with effects on hydrophobicity of the fabrics as follows: NaOH concentration, deposition speed and deposition thickness. The optimum processing parameters are NaOH concentration of 15 g/L, deposition speed of 0.3 nm/s and deposition thickness of 1.5μm, and under the conditions, super-hydrophobic fabric can be prepared. The contact angle and rolling angle of the coated fabric were 151° and 8.1°, respectively. After 7,000 times mechanical friction test, the coated fabrics still have good durability, and the contact angle and rolling angle of the coated fabric were 124° and 58.6°, respectively.

Synthesis and properties of waterborne polyacrylate coating dyeing binder

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  90-96.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160601807

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To overcome the defects of existing coating dyeing binders on poor softness, low soaping and crocking fastness, and alkylphenol ethoxylates contained in emulsifier, tacoating dyeing polyacrylate emulsion was synthesized from the main materials of acrylate monomers and glycidyl methacrylate by the pre-emulsification and seeded semi-continuous emulsion polymerization method using a composite emulsifier of sodium dodecyl sulfate and isomeric alcohol polyoxyethylene ether (E-1310), and the synthesis process was optimized. The emulsions prepared in orthogonal experiments were studied by performance tests of the mechanical properties, particle size, Zeta potential and emulsion stability. The color fastness and softness of the dyed fabrics based on polyacrylate emulsions were tested. Meanwhile, the optimized emulsions were further detected by infrared spectroscopy and differential scanning calorimetry. The results show that the emulsion performance is stable, the grass transition temperature of the polyacrylate film is -27℃ and the dyed fabrics is softness with the dry friction of grade 5 and wet friction up to grade 4, when the content of hard monomers is 8 g, glycidyl methacrylate 2 g, hydroxyethl acrylate 2 g and compound emulsifier 4%.

Deformation algorithm of waist cross-section contour in digital mannequin model

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  97-102.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160500406

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Aiming at the problems of the feature-based parameter human modeling method on diformation precision and personalization representation, based on the analysis of the characteristics of the guman body part modeling and deformation, this paper proposes a novel parameterization human modiling and deformation algorithm. At first the characteristic waist contour of the mannequin model is obtained by the cross cutting of the horizontal cross sections, then the characteristic dimension parameters of human body are introduced and 3 iteration initial axles and initial values on the front, back and lateral faces on the waist contour are deermined; then the point coordinates of the waist contour are calculated by applying the weighted average of the included angles, and the deformation of the waist contour is realized. Finally, the iteration initial values of the contours are acquired in the specified deformation area according to the heights of other contours and the initial values of the initial values of the waist contour, and the deformation of other contours in the specified deformation area is realized to complete the whole deformation of the area. A personalized human body model is obtained from the digital mannequin model by deforming based on the specified characteristic values.

Design and development of warm clothing for the elderly

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  103-108.  doi:10.3475/j.fzxb.20160400906

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In view of the current situation of no reasonable application of the solar energy resource and the demand of the elderly to winter warm keeping, the utilization situations of clothing are summarized, and a flexible solar panel, a carbon fiber USB heating film, a multifunctional USB socket, an intelligent temperature controller, etc. are combined to constitute an ecological circuit balance system by adopting eronomic thinking and man-machine interaction, and on the basis of the flexible amorphous silicon thin film solar panels; and based on the system, fashion and functional warm keeping charging clothes for the elderly are designed and developed. The results show that in the clothes for the elderly having the flexible amorphous silicon thin film solar panels, the carbon fiber USB heating film can quickly heat up to a comfortable state for human body within a few minutes, the clothes cause no harm to the human body, and the multifunctional USB socket can charge different types of electronic products to provide a choice for the multi-dimensional needs of the elderly.

JIAO YU cutting algorithm in Qin bamboo slips and traditional cutting technique in Tibetan robes

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  109-114.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160402706

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Study on the structure of Tibetan costumes, by means of plotting and structure restoration of Tibetan robes from Ethnic Costume Museum of Beifing Institute of Fashion Technology, and the summarization of the cutting techniques of Tibetan robes by cutting technician from Hongyuan county in Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, and the reference of documents about the cutting technique on Tibetan robes, it is found that the cutting technique named complementary side pieces and compoementary inserted pieces are ubiquitous in Tibetan robes. By combining the comparative approach, it is concluded that JIAO YU cutting technique in "Making Clothes" of Qin bamboo slips is the same as the cutting technique on Tibetan robes. Both of them are the complementary cutting method in one-width piece of cloth. The Qin bamboo slips unearthed in the Yangtz River, the habitat area of the Han nationality. It is the true record of the cutting technique on Qin clothes of Han nationality. However, this cutting technique is inherited in Tibetan robes by the modern Tibetan tailors.

She’s costumes heritage context in Zhejiang and Fujian provinces based on ethnic migration history

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  115-120.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160401206

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In order to find out the features of She’s costumes’ heritage context tased on ethnic migration, aiming at the diversity appearance of She' s costumes, firstly She' s in Zhejiang and Fujian provinces were summarzed and divided into five typical styles. Recovery plans of the five styles were comoleted by field investigation and literature collection, and then She' s history migration routes were compared with the destribution characteristics of the styles. It can be found that a certain context of the relationship exists between them, including the change in the clothing shape and decoration. By combining the migation route history of She nationality, the heritage comtest has relatively consistent correspondence with the migration rwute. Analysis on the She nationality characteristics and the development of She' s costumes shows the main reason for this phenomenon is the similarity brought by the cultural identity and national identity and the differences brought by ethnic migration and ethnic integration.

Design of displacement diagram for rapier in variable lead screw weft insertion mechanism

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  121-126.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160405506

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In order to improve the motion characteristics of the variable lead screw weft insertion mechanism, the displacement curve of weft insertion mechanism was designed based on the transformed trapezoidal acceleration curve. Firstly, an equation set was built according to the actual working conditions of weft insertion and the boundary conditions of the cut-off points in the acceleration curve. Parts of the variables were determined based on the empirical data and the vwriables were limited in a reasonable range. Then the equation set could be solved by MatLab. The optimal objective solution was selected from the solution space under comprehensive consideration of the peak acceleration, the peak velocity and the velocity of the critical point in the weft transition area. Subsiqently, a comparison between the designed optimal motion law with the one based on the classic trapezoidal acceleration curve was carried out. The result shows that when the rapier moves into the weft transition area, the velocity and the acceleration of the designed optimal motion law are significantly smaller than the ones based on the classic trapezoidal acceleration curve, so that the rapier operates more stably when in the weft transition area.

Knitting motions for multi-bar warp knitting machine driven by E-cam

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  127-133.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160202307

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In order to solve the problem of long kinematic chain and poor machine adaptability for multi-bar warp knitting machine, E-cam drive actuator was adopted to meet the kinematical requirements of the needle bars. Critical simulation points were selected based on the characteristics of warp knitting technology and guide bar configuration to fit the theoretical track of needle bar tip. Specifically, the offset between front and rear seaming pattern guide bar tip lapping should not exceed the radius of curvature of the tip. The difference between the measured and predicted critical points in piezo jacquard guide bar and land guide bar regions are within ±0.25 mm range in x direction for 43/1 type warp knitting machine. The variation in pattern guide bar tip back lapping is 0~0.25 mm in the x direction, while seaming pattern guide bar tip front lapping renders variation below 1.95 mm. In the y direction, all the differences are within ±0.25 mm range.

Motion simulation analysis and track optimal design for three-dimensional braiding machine

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  134-139.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160404606

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This study intends to research the movement of the yarn carrier o a rotaty three-dimensional braiding machine in the braiding process of the parts so as to analyze the motion and contact of the yarn carrier, and to understand the impact on the performance of the braided composites. To establish the theoretical formula of carrier by analyzing, using matLab software to draw the movenent theory curve of the yarn carrier, and to establish the virtual prototype analysis model of the three-dimension braiding machine simplified, and the kinematics and dynamics simulation was applied on it with the software of ADAMS. Comparison between theory and simulation curve shows that a sharp point appears in the transition phase of the carrier, and hence a large acceleration exists, which results in contact impact effect to the weaving. The optimal design of trajectory for the yarn carrier is then caried ou a bad. Through the simulation by introducing virtral prototype software, it is shown that optimized speed curve is slow and smooth in transition without a tip point, and the acceleration at the transition is small, therefore it reduces the impact and wear rate. 

Resonance suppression strategy of shogging mechanism in tufting carpet loom

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  140-144.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160303805

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Aiming at the problem that the mechanical resonance which influenced the responsiveness and stability of the shogging mechanism was easily induced during the high speed operation of the shogging mechanism on tufting carpet loom, the paper designed the compensation device based on a theoretical model of the shogging mechanism. Firstly, the paper adopted a double T type motch filter to eliminate mechanical resonance points of the shogging driving system, based on the s step response. And then the paper used the Tustin prestressing bilinear approximation method to perform discretization on the ontch filter, and compared with the discretization algorithms such as a zero order holder and a first order holder. The results show that the double T type notch filter can well inhibit the mechanical resonance during high speed operation of the shogging mechanism, and the discrete notch filter designed by the Tustin prestressing bilinear approximation method can achieve more accurate approximation effect of the frequency domain characteristics than the zero order holder and the first order holder.

Automatic seam-puckering evaluation using image processing

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  145-150.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160404106

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In order to solve the problem of low-accuracy classification in objective automatic evaluation of seam-puckering, a novel method based on gray level co-occurrence matrix, wavelet analysis and back propagation (BP) network was proposed for automatic seam-puckering evaluation. Firstly, a standard seam image was captured and the gray level of the seam image was reduced to 16 level, the gray level co-occurrence matrix, and the mean values of the characteristic parameters were obtained in the direction of 0° and 90°, respectively. Meanwhile, the standard deviation of the horizontal detail coefficients of the seam image was extracted and calculated by using Haar wavelet of the sixth anslysis scales. After that, five extracted characteristic parameters were input to the BP neural network for training and recognizing, and the standerd seam image was exaluated. The evaluation results show that the proposed algorithm, compared with one adopting gray level co-occurrence matrix characteristic or wavelet characteristic alone, has higher correct classification rate and stable classification effect.

Digitalize and intelligentize customization system of men's suit

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  151-157.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160407707

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In order to optimize the customization process of men's suits and improve the user experience, a digitalized men's intelligentized customization system was developed. Based on the steps for the customization of men's suits of three-dimensional measurement, three-dimensional human body transformation, reconstructed sculpture for mannequin production, intelligent pattern grneration, false stitch modification, model fitting and so on, the digitalized personalized customization process of men's suits was analyzed, customization pattern intelligent automatic generation system was designed, and the three-dimensional measurement technology was used to grnerate a rustomization human model, a man-machine integrated intelligent system composed of intelligent machines and human experts was designed and dexeloped, that is, a men's suits digitalized intelligentized customization system. The system realizes the data exchange of the men's suits intelligent digitalized integrated system under the virtral special network environment, and makes the male suits customization, updating and manufacturing automatic, flexible, intelligent and highly integrated, and effectively improve the digitalized intelligentized manufacturing level of enterprises.

Consumers decision mechanism of entity retail of lady casual wears

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  158-163.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160405806

Abstract ( 351 )   PDF (1633KB) ( 211 )   Save

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In order to learn customers decision factors of entity retailers of lady casual wears and the correlation among the factors, and provide a solution for the enterprise to learn the target customers and adjust retail channels accordingly, 13 key indexes for the customers decision factors of entity retailers were concluded by the expert interviews and on 4Cs marketing theory. 244 lady casual wears consumers'preferences on the key indexes were invested by the questionnaire survey. Three factors of Product demand, Security service and Effortless decision-making were extrated by the principal component analysis. The structural equation model was used to analyze the correlation among the factors, and the result shows that Product demand has positive influence on Security service and Effortless decision-making, respectively, while Security service also has positive influence on Effortless decision-making. 

Status and development research of Lyocell fiber at home and abroad

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  164-170.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160505607

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Lyocell fiber becomes an extremely potential new fiber in the 21st century because of its green production technology and renewable raw material. The paper briefly introduced the domestic and oversea development history of Lyocell fiber, made a comparison with normal viscose fiber in the aspects of investment and operation cost, process flow and fiber properties, and drew conclusions that compared with wiscose fiber, the peoduction efficiency of Lyocell fiber increased by about 8 times, the production process was green and eco-friendly, the raw amterial and production cost were both much higher than Lenzing, and its performance meets wearing needs better. The research status of cellulose fiber produced by the solvent process was mainly introduced, including raw material, spinning dope preparation, spinning process and N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide (NMMO) solvent recovery. It was considered that the key and difficult point for Lyocell fiber industrialization was spinning dope continrous preparation and efficient solvent recovery, and the cloths and industry application prospect of Lyocell fiber was wide.

Research progress and plasticization effect of polar plasticizers for starch sizing agents

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(04):  171-176.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160502606

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In order to improve the sizing property of starch sizing agents, the significance of applying the plasticizers in starch sizing was analyzed, the plasticizing mechanism of polar plasticizers was described, the plasticization effect on tensile property of starch film, adhesion of starc to fibers and phase separation rate between starch and PVA were discussed, research progress of the plasticizers for starch sizing agents was summarized, and the research direction of the polar plasticizers for starch was also predicted. Furthermore, the paper pointed out that the research on the plasticization effect of composite plasticizers containing polar groups, and preparation of new polar plasticizers by new methods will be the important research directions of starch plasticizers.