Loading...

Table of Content

    15 March 2017, Volume 38 Issue 03
    • Antimicrobial property of naturally brown cotton
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  1-5.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160301705
      Abstract ( 498 )   PDF (1555KB) ( 244 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      To explore the antimicrobial property of naturally brown cotton, plate colony counting method and turbidimetry method were used to test the antibacterial properties against gram-positive bacteria S.aureus and gram-negative bacteria  E.coli. Meanwhile,  the antimicrobial activity and antimicrobial mechanism of the pigment extract were also studied by disk diffusion method, fluorescence microscope and scanning electron microscope. The results showed that brown cotton fibers have good inhibitory effect on the growth of two test bacteria and its antibacterial ratio are 87.9 % and 79.5 %, respectively, showing significant antimicrobial properties of brown cotton fibers. Conventional alkali scouring and enzyme scouring can improve the antibacterial performance of brown cotton fibers to a certain extent. Brown cotton fibers’ antibacterial properties derives from its pigment. The pigment may destroy the transport capacity of cell membrane by combination with membrane structure of bacteria and then inhibit the normal growth and reproduction process of bacteria to achieve the effect of killing bacteria.

      Preparation and characterization of electrospun polyamide 6 nanofibrous membranes
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  6-12.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160402107
      Abstract ( 1016 )   PDF (2054KB) ( 439 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      Polyamide 6 (PA6) with modifier (polyvinylpyrrolidone, PVP) was electrospun by adjusting the processing parameters to fabricate hydrophilic PA6 nanofibrous membranes. The morphology, mechanical properties and hydrophilicty of electrospun fibers were characterized. When the PA6 spinning solution concentration of 28% and the amount of 0.5 g PVP were determined, the diameter of the fibers is 132 nm, the fracture strength is 9.68 MPa, the elongation at break is 31.89% and the hydrophilic angle also is ( 32.4° ± 1.2)°. The filtration performances of the fibrous membrane with the different spinning time were analyzed. The membrane with the spinning time of 0.5 h exhibits a better performance with efficiency of 99.5% and resistance of 476 Pa. The mechanism of the improved hydrophilicity of PA6 was analyzed by FT-IR. The increased amide group coming from PVP enhances the hydrophilicity of PVP/PA6 nanofibrous membranes significantly. Therefore, this membrane is expected to be applied in humidifier wet film materials.

      Fabrication and selective adsorption on Pt(Ⅳ)of calixarene electrospun fibers
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  13-17.  doi:10.13475/fzxb.20160402606
      Abstract ( 372 )   PDF (1523KB) ( 121 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      In order to adsorb noble metals ions, calixarene-polyimide (calixarene-PI) fibers were fabricated by design and synthesis of 5,17-diamino-26,28-(1’,8’-dioxa-4’,5’-dithiaoctane)-calix[4]arene monomer, preparation of calixarene-polyamide acid (calixarene-PAA) spinning solution by amidation, fabrication of the calixarene-PAA fibers by electrospinning, and preparation of calixarene-PI fibers by thermal imidization on calixarene-PAA fibers. Calixarene-PI fibers were characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectrography and scanning electronic microscopy, and their adsorption on Pt(Ⅳ), Ag (Ⅰ) and  Au (Ⅰ) was studied. FT-IR indicates calix[4]arene monomer is incorporated into calixarene-PI fibers is (400±40)nm. Calixarene-PI fibers display strong adsorption on Pt(Ⅳ)rather than Ag (Ⅰ) and Au (Ⅰ), which fit with the Langmuir isothermal adsorption model. The saturated amount of Pt(Ⅳ)adsorped by calixarene-PI fibers is 3.1 mmol/g. The electron distribution in the outermost of Pt(Ⅳ)is 5d6, which indicates the 5d electron layer of Pt(Ⅳ)is not fully occupied by electrons. Pt(Ⅳ)can accept electrons of O or S in 1,8-dioxa-4,5-dithiaoctane attached in calixarene-PI fibers. Therefore, the coordinative adsorption between Pt(Ⅳ)and calixarene-PI fibers can be formed.

      Preparation and characterization of photodynamic antimicrobial polymethyl methacrylate-co-methacrylic acid electrospun nanofibers
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  18-22.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160407405
      Abstract ( 621 )   PDF (1576KB) ( 179 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      Polymethyl methacrylate-co-methacrylic acid (P(MMA-co-MAA)) synthesized by emulsion polymerization was electrospun into nanofibers, and carboxyl groups were used to adsorb cationic photosensitizers to fabricate photodynamic antimicrobial nanofibrous membrane. Gel permeation chromatography, Fourier transform infrared spectrometer, and thermo-gravimetric analysis were employed to characterize P(MMA-co-MAA) polymer. Scanning electron microscope and surface tension meter were used to analyze the surface morphology of the P(MMA-co-MAA) nanofibrous membrane as well as its adsorption behavior of cationic photosensitizers. Finally, the antimicrobial behavior of the as-prepared material was evaluated. The results indicated that P(MMA-co-MAA) polymers with relatively high molecular weight as well as favorable spinnability are successfully prepared. Furthermore, the electrospun P(MMA-co-MAA) nanofibrous membrane shows good adsorption capacity of two cationic photosensitizers, i.e., methylene blue (MB) and (meso-tetrakis (N-methylpyridinium-4-yl) porphyrin) Zn(Ⅱ) (Zn-Por). The membrane decorated by Zn-Por and MB shows desirable antimicrobial effect, and the sterilization rate can reach 99.99%.

      Influence of deep cryogenic treatment on SnSb/carbon nanofibers morphologies and its mechanism
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  23-27.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160401405
      Abstract ( 411 )   PDF (1710KB) ( 201 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      The morphologies of SnSb/carbon nanofibers were rebuilt by the deep cryogenic treatment to improve the fibers properties. The influence of deep cryogenic treatment on SnSb/carbon nanofibers morphologies were studied by adjusting the process order of deep cryogenic treatment and carbonization.  The result mechanism was explored according to analysis on the crystalline structure and the carbon contents. The results showed that a core-shell structure is built by first treated electrospun SnSb/carbon nanofibers precursor using carbonization and then performing the deep cryogenic treatment, while an uneven dispersed SnSb alloy in nanofibers is built by first treated electrospun SnSb/carbon nanofibers precursor using the deep cryogenic treatment and then carbonizing. The increased carbon contents appeared in SnSb/carbon nanofibers after the deep cryogenic treatment. The influence of grain refinement is responsible for the morphologies rebuilt of SnSb/carbon nanofibers based on the analysis of crystalline structure.

      Preparation and properties of carbon black/Lyocell cellulose membrane
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  28-32.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160404205
      Abstract ( 424 )   PDF (1639KB) ( 251 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      To solve the solidification problem of Lyocell fiber spinning solution caused by water-based pigment, the carbon black (CB)/Lyocell cellulose membrane was prepared by dope dyeing using N-methylmorphding-N-oxide(NMMO) based ultrafine CB. The color properties, anti-solvent migration, mechanical properties and crystalline properties of CB/Lyocell cellulose membrane were discussed. The results showed that when the content of CB is 3 %, the color depth of CB/Lyocell cellulose membrane reached its maximum, and no more increased with CB. When the content of CB is less than 3 %, the CB/Lyocell cellulose membrane has good rubbing and washing fastness, and the solvent migration resistance is also good. By scanning electron microscopy it is deduced that CB is more likely to migrate in water with higher polarity. The CB influence the mechanical properties of the CB/Lyocell membrane, but can not change the crystal structure of the cellulose membrane. This study plays an important reference for achieving dope dyeing of Lyocell fibers.

      Miscibility of poly(3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxyvalerate) and polypropylene grafting maleic anhydride
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  33-37.  doi:10.3475/j.fzxv.20160300305
      Abstract ( 524 )   PDF (1529KB) ( 236 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      In order to provide theoretical basis for the preparation of melt-blown nonwoven materials, poly(3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxyvalerate)(PHBV) and polypropylene grafting maleic anhydride (PP-g-MAH) blends with different ratios (100:0,75:25,50:,25:75 and 0:100) were prepared by melting mixing. The blend system were investigated by differential scanning calorimetry, X-ray diffraction, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and scanning electron microscope. The results indicate that PHBV and PP-g-MAH are almost immiscible on account of a separation of the glass transition temperature. No diffraction peak appears at 2θ=22.8 °, that is to say, PP-g-MAH changes the PHBV’s crystallization of the molecular chain arrangement. The chemical bonds between them generate ester group because of the emergence of a new absorption peak in 1 710 cm-1, and PHBV/PP-g-MAH blends represent different morphology of sea-island with the change of compositions.

      Structure and moisture conductivity of compact-siro spinning pure polyester yarns
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  38-43.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160106006
      Abstract ( 384 )   PDF (1762KB) ( 180 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      In order to improve the moisture conductivities of compact-siro spinning pure polyester yarn, moisture conductivities of compact-siro spun yarn, siro spun yarn and compact spun yarn were analyzed and compared. Three kinds of linear density (14.6tex, 9.7tex and 7.3tex) of siro spun, compact spun, compact-siro spun pure polyester yarn with the same yarn parameters setting were spun, and the moisture conductivity was tested by capillary wicking. The results show that the compact-siro spun yarn obtain the optimum moisture conductivity compared with the other two kinds of yarn with different yarn has smoother surface, the least yarn hairiness, and the best yarn evenness. The cross-sectional shape of compact-siro spun yarn is closer to a circle and fibers of yarn body are twisted tightly, so the yarn structure is more closely. Therefore, the moisture conductivity of compact-siro spinning pure polyester yarn is excellent because of its special yarn structure, which offers possibility to improve the moisture conductivity of polyester fabrics.

      Tensile properties of self-twist yarns
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  44-48.  doi:10.3475/j.fzxb.20151102705
      Abstract ( 331 )   PDF (1353KB) ( 181 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      In view of the problem of lower breaking strength and elongation of self-twist yarn, the fibers and those after being combined with other fibers suitable for self-twist spinning and fiber ratio were discussed, by comparing the breaking properties of self-twist yarns with that of ring spun yarns made by the same fiber. In comparison with the ring spun yarns,  breaking strength of wool, polyester, acrylic self-twist yarn decreased by 81.25%, 49.33%, 31.39%, respectively. Polyester and acrylic fibers can be used directly for the self twist spinning, but wool and ramie can't be used directly and must be compositely twisted with other fibers. Results of mechanical peoperties of wool/ polyester, ramie / polyester, acrylic / polyester composite self-twist yarn show that polyester fiber percentage should reach 60% or above in wool / polyester composite self-twist yarn to meet the processing requirement of afterward procedure, and for ramie / polyester it should reach 71% or more, with no limit for acrylic / polyester.

      Definition and tracing of fabricating
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  49-55.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160304707
      Abstract ( 807 )   PDF (2242KB) ( 213 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      Fabricating as a forming method is adopted for along term, but no conclusion about its origin is drawn. In order to explore the origin of the fabricating, by the comparison on grneral definitions of braiding, knotting, fabricating and flocculating, the more precise definitions on them have been provided in theory, and the collective characteristics of fabricating have been recognized. Similarly, based on the forming method and structural characteristics of braiding and knotting, and by the comparison among weaving, braiding, knotting and nonwoven and the characteristics of fabrocs fromed by the four methods, it can be affirmed that the paternal origin of both weaving and 3-D braiding is braiding. The maternal origin of knitting is knotting as the main while the paternal origin of knitting is braiding as supplement. The tools needed for weft knitting are simpler, so it appears much earlier than warp knitting. While non-woven is the posterity of the flocking. By the investigation on unearthed evidence including the real objects and traces of braiding, knotting and flocculating, it is concluded that braiding and knotting are the oldest wasy to make the soft tools. The braids and knots, appearing in the mid-Paleolithic, should be named as braiding-formed tool and knotting-formed tool respectively, referring to the stone tool and pottery. Fabricating is a combination of braiding and knotting where tools are used and transfer to clothing-used, so fabricating is the posterity of the braiding and knotting.

      Measurement for fabric wrinkle resistance by simulating actual wear
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  56-60.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20150901105
      Abstract ( 409 )   PDF (1368KB) ( 249 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      The available fabric wrinkling measurements could not be used to characterize the wrinkling behavior during actual wearing. Aiming at this, a simple method for fabric wrinkling measurement that can simulate actual wear was put forward. A simulating device was set up and image processing technology was used to extract wrinkle density. Experiment was conducted with 20 fabrics. The following conclusions can be drawn. Wrinkles produced by the simulating method are very similar with those in actual wear, which proves the feasible of the method. Besides, its measuring stability is better than that of wrinkle recovery angle method. Wrinkle recovery angle in 0°has the highest correlation with wrinkle dinsity, after which is 45°. It is advisable that Wrinkle recovery angle in 45° should be considered to improve the agreement of the testing results and the actual wrinkling ability capability during wear. Models between wrinkle disity and wrinkle recovery angle established by multiple linear regression can be used to predict fabric wrinkling during actual wear, without need of the tedious clothes making and trial work.

      Size prediction system of warp-knitted three-dimensional structure jacquard shoe-upper
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  61-66.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160300606
      Abstract ( 616 )   PDF (1552KB) ( 214 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      Warp-knitted three-dimensional structure jacquard shoe-upper has high demand on size of the functional zone. To control the size of the shoe-upper fabrics, four kinds of fabric structure and four kinds of on-loom densities were designed. The influence of the two factors on the whole shoe-upper’s weft shrinkage and warp shrinkage were analyzed. The inflluence of jacquard mesh structure on the local pattern size was also studied. Based on the experimental results, the correspondence among jacquard shoe-upper lateral weft shrinkage, lateral warp shrinkage, size of the mesh area and influence factors was explored, and then a shoe-upper size prediction system was established. Finally, the prediction system is used to design jacquard shoe-upper. Taking one jacquard shoe-upper’s design as an example, after knitting and finishing process, the size of shoes is consistent with the pattern. It is proved that the size prediction system is relatively reliable.

      Sound absorption properties of nonwoven material based on wool and its hybrid fibers
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  67-71.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160301605
      Abstract ( 340 )   PDF (1619KB) ( 164 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      In order to optimize the sound absorption properties of wool nonwoven materials, wool and its hybrid fiber nonwoven materials were prepared from wool, wool/polyester and wool/jute. Using the standing wave tube, the sound absorption properties of wool nonwoven materials in a frequency range of 250 – 6 300 Hz were studied by changing the fiber species, thickness and cavity depth. Results indicated that the average sound absorption coefficient of three samples is not less than 0.2, and sound absorption properties of wool materials are slightly better than those of wool/polyester materials and wool/jute materials. Sound absorption performance of all frequencies(especially low frequencies) also can be improved by increasing the thickness of the material or setting the cavity, in which, thickness supplies much influence on sound absorption coefficients. Taking environmental protection, inexpensive materials and convenient construction into consideration, the 6 mm wool/jute material with a cavity of 6 mm can achieve more excellent sound absorption performance at low frequencies.

      Influence of polyamide fiber on morphology and properties of textile wasted rubber-hindered phenol
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  72-77.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160305806
      Abstract ( 615 )   PDF (1969KB) ( 225 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      A series of PF/TWRP-AO 2246 damping absorption composites were prepared from textile wasted rubber powder (TWRP), hindered phenol 2,2’-methylene-bis-(6-tert-butyl-methyl-phenol) (AO2246) and single hollow nylon fiber(NF). The microstructure and properties of composites were investigated by dynamic thermal analysis thermal analysis, scanning electron microscope, SW230 absorption machine and YG065 electronic fabric electronic strength machine. The results show that polyamide fiber acted as an induced nuclear for the crystallizations of AO 2246, which were coated on the surface of fiber. The crystallization-fiber network structures are formed in composites, which forms "the air flow". This improves the absorption properties of composites effectively. The fiber hinders the degree of freedom of macromolecular chain effectively, which reduces the damping loss. Crystallization-fiber network structures acts as framework for reinforcing. With the content of fiber increasing from 10% to 50%, its breaking stress ranges from 62.8 MPa to 128.8 MPa and its breaking strain ranges from 363.6% to 19%.

      Influence of sizing agent on surface and weaving performance of SiC fibers
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  78-84.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160503607
      Abstract ( 576 )   PDF (2347KB) ( 330 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      To investigate the effect of the additive content in sizing agent and the percentage by weight of size on the surface and weavability of SiC fibers, the domestic KD-I SiC fibers were sized with waterborn epoxy resin sizing agent by two times of sizing treatment. Tensile abrasion resistance, strength and elongation and flexibility were strdied. The results indicate that SiC fibers sized with E-15 sizing agent exhibit highee abrasion resistance and better flexibility than those unsized and sized with E-0, E-10, E-20 sizing agents. It is also found that the percentage by weight of size has significantly influence on the surface morphology of SiC fibers. The SiC  fibers sized with 9 % E-15 sizing agent which is considered as the optimum dosage, and the tensile strength of SiC fibers is enhanced about 180% compared with that of the unsized.

      Sizing of polylactic acid filaments at lower temperature
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  85-90.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160306006
      Abstract ( 437 )   PDF (1948KB) ( 117 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      Polyactic acid (PLA) filamens sized with conventional alkaline sizing solution at temperature (T>60℃) have poor structure and mechanical properties. The changes of the microstructure of PLA filaments before and after sizing process under various conditions are examined using scanning electron microscope (SEM), and the effects of temperature and pH value on the physical properties were analyzed. Significant changes in the microstructure of the PLA filaments are evident and markedly decreases in their tensile strength are found when the PLA filaments are sized under alkaline solutions at higher temperature (T>600C). In contrast, when the PLA filaments are sized in a neutral sizing solution under relatively lower temperature (e.g., T<600C for the sizing solution and T<700C for the drying temperature), tensile strength of the sized filaments increases up to 59.74% and the reduction of elongation rate is as low as 7.10%, which meets the weaving requirements.

      Preparation of self-adhesive submicron organic pigment-containing capsules by miniemulsion polymerization for paint coloring
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  91-98.  doi:10.13475 / j.fzxb.20160600508
      Abstract ( 371 )   PDF (2929KB) ( 217 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      In order to improve the dispersity and wettability of organic pigments in water, organic pigment phthalocyanine blue (PB) filter cake, as a representative colorant, was dispersed in the styrene-acrylic monomer and subsequently in its corresponding formed submicron droplets by ultrasonic homogenization. A series of submicron capsules containing pigment particles were successfully prepared by miniemulsion copolymerization, and then used in film forming experiment. It is found that the ultrasonic homogenization can effectively de-aggregated the dry PB filter cakes to realize the uniform and stable dispersion of pigment particles in the styrene-acrylic monomer and its submicron droplets in the form of primary particles. Simultaneously, the content of the pigment can significantly affect the viscosity of monomer dispersion and its miniemulsification potential, and the mass ratio of soft to hard comonomers is the most significant condition to decide the film-forming performance of submicron capsules. When the content of the pigment and the mass ratio of butyl acrylate to styrene are 12 % and 6 : 4, the miniemulsification system and the polymerization process are stable. The prepared microcapsules have good dispersibility and wettability in water and show a clear capsule morphology and a good film-formation performance, which can be directly used in the paint coloring and dyeing.

      Anti-ultraviolet finishing and light stability of bleached wool
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  99-107.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160506309
      Abstract ( 766 )   PDF (2478KB) ( 150 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      In order to improve the whiteness and decrease the light yellowing rate of wool fabric, the wool fabric was bleached by oxidation and oxidation/reduction combine bleaching process firstly, and then the bleached wool fabric was irradiated by UV light, its light yellowing process was measured, and the injluence of bleaching on morphology and light stability of wool fabric was discussed. The anti-ultraviolet finishing of wool was treated with UV absorber UVFW and the UVFW finishing effect on the wool light stability was discussed. The results show the whiteness of wool increas, and the light yellowing rate and light tender rate also increase. The wool fabric which treated by oxidation/reduction combine bleaching process and anti-ultraviolet finishing with 1% (o.w.f) UVFW has good light stability, and its whiteness is even slightly higher than that of oxidation bleached wool fabric after UV irradiation for 6 h, which will contribute to higher whiteness, higher surface wettability and adsorption capacity to improve the adsorption and diffusion of UVFW to wool fiber.

      Performance of superhydrophobic polyester fabric cloth and its application in oil /water separation
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  108-113. 
      Abstract ( 758 )   PDF (2030KB) ( 192 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      In order to increase the dispersion of nanoparticle and the bonding force between the inorganic nanoparticles and polyester fabric cloth, nano-sized SiO2 was modified by 3-mercaptopropyl trimethoxysilane. The superhydrophobic polyester fabric were fabricated by immersing filter cloth in a solution consisting of modified SiO2. The morphology and microstructure, chemical structures and element composition of the fklter cloth were characterized using field emission scanning electron microscopy, energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscope, fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy. After coating, the surface of the fabrics is wrapped by compact silicone resin of low surface free enery and shows rough micro/nano structure, which endows the fabrics with superhydrophobicity, so the water contact angle of the coated fabrics even up to 156°.  The superhydrophobicity of fabrics is durable in solvents. When the fabrics immersed in organic solvents for over 72 h, the water contact angle only reduced by 1~4°. The high strength and the superhydrophobicity/superoleophilicity make the fabrics showing promising prosperity in oil-water separation.

      Influence of inorganic fillers on properties of polyamide wet-coating trademark fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  114-121. 
      Abstract ( 635 )   PDF (2361KB) ( 165 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      To improve adhesion resistance, ink absorption property and reduce pH value produced in the polyamide wet coating of trademark fabrics, the influence of inorganic fillers on properties of wet coating of trademark fabrics were investigated by characterizing the stability and rheology properties of coating slurry after addition of different inorganic fillers into the coating slurry, the surface morphology and tensile properties of the resultant coating film and the style, ink absorption, whiteness, pH and washable color fastness of coated fabrics.The results show the coating slurry containing calcium carbonate and kaolin has higher stability, wherein the elongation at break of the coating film containing calcium carbonate is 30.22% with better flexibility, but the pH of the resultant coated fabric was 8.25. The coating slurry with hydrotalcite had relative poor dispersion and stability, and the pH value is 8.55. The coating slurry containing wollastonite presented excellent fluidity. The resultant coating film is uniform and smooth and has better ink absorption property with a large number of micropores. Moreover, the coated fabrics presented high whiteness and qualified environment friendliness performance. The grade of washable color fastness is 4-5, and the pH value is 7.32.

      Heat-moisture comfort of fire-fighter’s protective clothing materials
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  122-125.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160400604
      Abstract ( 666 )   PDF (1161KB) ( 293 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      In order to study heat-moisture comfort of fire-fighter’s protective clothing and investigate whether it meets the requirements of European and  American standards, thermal resistance, evaporative resistance and total heat loss of various fire-fighter’s protective clothing materials were tested and analyzed. Furthermore, the inflrence of air gap on the thermal resistance of multilayer fabrics was also studied. The results were compared with requirements in European and American standards. It is found that when thickness of the fabrics is substantially the same, density affects greatly on thermal resistance and evaporative resistance of outer shell materials. For thermal barrier material, its thermal resistance and evaporative resistance are much higher because of its non-woven structure.Location of air gap has little effect on the thermal resistance of multilayer fabrics. However, the thickness of air gap may have great effect on the thermal resistance of fire-fighters' protective clothing. The evaporative resistance of the multilayer fabrics is lower than 30 Pa • m² /W and the total heat loss thereof is higher than 250W/m², which meets the requirements of European and American standards.

      Evaluation process of costume design based on evaluation subject perspective
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  126-130.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160201305
      Abstract ( 650 )   PDF (1592KB) ( 169 )   Save
      References | Related Articles | Metrics

      In order to make scientific evaluation of costume design and strengthen pertinence and effectiveness of design, costume design evaluation activity was analyzed from the view of epistemology. An evaluation subject was divided according to the process of costume from production to use, and different evaluation subjects had different evaluation objects. Through expert interviews and consumer research, the perceptual cognitive process of costume design evaluation was divided into three stages including observation, touch and try-on. From the perspective of three types of evaluation subject, evaluation process of costume design was studied in different perspectives. The results show that the evaluation object is different from the perspective of three types of evaluation subject, and the process of costume design evaluation is different. The evaluation base, evaluation purposes, evaluation methods and evaluation focus of three evaluation subjects are different.

      Comprehensive evaluation on  garment lining properties
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  131-137.  doi:10.3475/j.fzxb.20160303307
      Abstract ( 526 )   PDF (1706KB) ( 227 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      Aiming at the problem on too many indicatirs to describe garment linings' performance, the comprehensive evaluation method should be employed to rand them. Firstly, the type of indicators should be consistent, i.e. the indicators of minimal type or interval type should be converted into the maximumal type. Secondly, the difference of dimension and magnitude between different indicators should be eliminated. Thirdly, the weight factor should be determined.  Finally, a comprehensive evaluating index was integrated. Comparison indicates the comperhensive evaluation method is adopted, i.e. the maximizing linear propirtion method is firstly adopted to eliminate the difference between dimension and magintude, the weight is determined by the rank factor and the linear weight is performed so as to obtain the larger difference, and it could distinguish the garment linings better. In the 10 kinds of garment linings, the camlet ranks number one, which has a higher performance to price ratio, and the bright elastic satin ranks the lowest because three properties are the worst.

      Design of needle selector frequency detection system based on stroboscopic principle
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  138-142.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160302805
      Abstract ( 400 )   PDF (1362KB) ( 130 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      Needle selector is the key actuator in the electronic jacquard technology, and its working performance will directly a ffect the accuracy and reliability of circular knitting machine. The existing electronic choosing needle detector systems have shortcomes of low detection efficiency, poor reliability, and high cost. Using stroboscopic imaging principle, and utilizing the embedded control technology and the modular design method, a needle selector detection system was designed based on  an embedded processor STM32 and programmable logic device. The practical test results show that the system can realize the effective detection of the cutter head failure of the needle selector with good stability, reliability and parallel control ability. The detection system is applied in the selection device manufacturers, which shows improvement of the stability, reliability and the production efficiency of the needle selector.

      Modeling and simulation of elliptical motion mechanism for R680 series automatic printing machine
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  143-148.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160501206
      Abstract ( 299 )   PDF (1733KB) ( 71 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      In order to analyze the vibration and noise caused by the elliptical motion mechanism of the automatic printing machine, three dimensional modeling of the platen and the elliptical track of the R680 series automatic printing machineare was established, and the simulation of dlliptical motion mechanism was realized based on the Creo software. General formula for solving the maximum vibration position was derived based on the above model. The compactness between the track as well as the related problems of reducing noise in the course of the movement were explored. The results indicate that in the process of the platen entering the circular track from straight track, the gap between the outer front wheel of the platen and the track is presented in the first fast increase, then slowly becomes smaller and finally tends to zero, while the gap between the outer rear wheel and the track shows the delayed change from slow to fast. The gaps in the process of the platen entering the straight track from circular track and gaps in the process of the platen entering the circular track is symmetrical. When the outer front wheel of the platen rotating 7.5 ° or 17.5 °during the platen entering the circular track gaps between outer front or rear wheel of the platen, the track reaches the maximum value  are 0.33mm.

      Fabric defect detection algorithm based on histogram of orientation gradient and low-rank decomposition
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  149-154.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160304106
      Abstract ( 600 )   PDF (1853KB) ( 212 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      Fabric defect detection plays an important role in controlling the quality of fabric surface. An effective fabric detection algorithm based on histogram of orientated gradient (HOG) and low-rank decomposition was proposed. Firstly, the test fabric image was divided into image block with the same size. A feature matrix was generated by extracting the HOG features of each block. Secondly, an efficient low-rank decomposition model was constructed, and alternating direction method(ADM) was adopted to decompose the feature matrix into a low-rank matrix and a sparse matrix. Finally, the saliency map generated by sparse matrix was segmented via an improved optimal threshold algorithm to locate the defect. The experiment results show that the proposed method can sufficiently improve the  defect ddetection performance of complicated textile texture patterns.

      Factors influencing consumers' consumption intention of Chinese ethnic fashion apparel
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  155-161.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160201008
      Abstract ( 459 )   PDF (2236KB) ( 168 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      Obvious blindness and fragmentation phenomena exist in the present Chinese ethnic fashion apparel industry and brand construction. Factors affecting consumers’ consumption intention of Chinese ethnic fashion apparel were investigated in terms of consumers and products. By factors and structural equation modeling analysis, wide use of the functional theory of attitudes for reference, the effect of  consumers’ individual characteristics of Acculturation to Global Consumer Culture(AGCC), practical utility, brand origin and different design elements manifestations on consumer attitudes and spending intentions were identified. Findings show consumers’ characteristics of AGCC directly affec attitudes but incompletely affect consumption intention. Apparel practical utility is the most significant moderating factor. In addition, the experiment indicating that no significant different acceptance exists between two brands, but domestic brands bave more advantages than foreign brands in the Chinese ethnic fashion market. Consumers may prefer a subtle design ethnic apparel.

      Detection of fabric defects based on Gabor filters and Isomap
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  162-167.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160305306
      Abstract ( 450 )   PDF (1739KB) ( 304 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      In order to improve the correct rate of detection of fabric defect, Gabor filters and Isomap were used to detect the fabric defect. Firstly, the images of fabric defect were filtered by 15 Gabor filters with 3 orientations and 5 scales, which contribute to overcome the effect of uneven illumination and low contrast. Then, the filtered images are divided into a non-overlapping rectangular patches and high-dimensional features were extracted. Simultaneously, Isomap algorithm is applied to reduce the dimensionality of feature and eliminate the redundant information. Besides, a mapping model of new samples was proposed to detect the low dimensional embedding results. Finally, the performance of proposed algorithm was estimated off-line by two sets of fabric defect images. The theoretical argument is supported by experimental results.

      Research development for preparation of porous electrospun nanomaterials
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  168-173.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160304406
      Abstract ( 601 )   PDF (1876KB) ( 443 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      It is the main research direction to prepare nanlfibers with porous structure. Preparation of porous electrospun nanomaterials by self-forming and post-treatment methods was systematically reviewed. Principles of self-forming pore and post-treatment pore were introduced. Meanwhile, merits and demerits of different methods were given a comparative analysis. The analysis shows that process is simple for self-forming pore, while diameter and distribution of pores are random and difficult to be controlled. However, for post-treatment pores, diameter of pores can be controlled, while process is relatively complex. Therefore,  the furture research should focus on accurate control of diameter and disbribution of nanopores, which will achieve a precise matching between structure and function.

      Current development and future trend of bioactive fibers
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(03):  174-180.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160203107
      Abstract ( 1072 )   PDF (2141KB) ( 489 )   Save
      Related Articles | Metrics

      In order to systematically review the development to bioactive fibers, the basic structures, properties and applications of bioactive fibers were analyzed, the various methods for loading functional groups in fibrous materials were summarized, and bioactive fibers based on raw materials and preparation techniques were systematically classified. Results show that by regeneration, blending, coating and chemical modification, bioactive fibers can be prepared to carry bioactive groups influence cells, tissues, organs and systems in the human body with antimicrobial, haemostatic, enhanced blood circulation, immune defense, anti-ageing and other health care and skin care benefits. Products made from bioactive fibers are highly valuable in hygiene materials, antimicrobial textiles, cosmetotextilogy textiles, functional wound dressings and other medical textile fields.