Table of Content

15 September 2017, Volume 38 Issue 09

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Preparation and properties of non-water soluble natural pigment dope-dyed alginate fiber

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  1-7.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170304907

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On account of the dissol ution loss of colorant in natural dyes coloring alginate fiber during wet spinning, copper chlorophyll (CHl-Cu) was used as colorant and sodium alginate dilute solution was used as organic grind auxiliary agent dispersant, dope dyeing spinning solution and alginate fiber were prepared. Properties of coloring spinning solution was characterized by infrared spectroscope, rotary rheometer and transmission electron microscope. The morphology of dyed alginate fiber was observed by scanning electron microscope, and water resistante migration and flame-retardany of fibers were tested. The results show stability of dyed spinning solution is the best when the Chl-Cu content is under 6%, and the Chl-Cu can be distributed evenly with a diameter imaller than 20 nm. The agglomeration of Chl-Cu nano particles are successfully eliminated, on account of Cu2+ cross-linking structure between Chl-Cu nano-particles and SA, Chl-Cu can be ground successful and dispersed stably. Chl-Cu colorant has good water resistant migration, and does not change the fiber surface. The dote-dyed alginate fiber has a prefect flame retardancy, and the limiting oxygen index is above 39%.

Preparation and gas-liquid filtration performance of composite filters of electrospun polyacrylonitrile nanofibers

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  8-13.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170204806

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In order to explore influences of nanofibers on the gas-liquid filtration performance of composite filters, polyacrylonitrile (PAN) nanofibrous of 3 layers were prepared by electrospinning method, with different surface density and fiber diameters. Based on the same conditions, the pressure drop, filtration efficiency and quality factor of the composite filters were evaluated experimentally by using liquid aerosol of diethylhexyl sebacate (DEHS). The results show that filtration efficiency and pressure drop of filters increase with increase of surface density when coalescence filtration is steady state. Quality factor of filters in steady state, however, first increase then decrease, and the maximum value is achieved when the surface density of nanofiber layer is 0.4 g/m2. In addition, with the decrease of diameter from 706.5 nm to 520.1 nm, filtration efficiency and quality factor of filters in steady state increase when surface density of nanofiber layers are equal, which indicates that composite filters with smaller fiber diameter will be more suitable.

Level set of central axis method of cashmere and wool diameter

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  14-18.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160705505

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As the existing methods of calculating the axis is inaccurate, a new oevel set of central axis method of cashmere and wool diameter was proposed. Firstly,the fiber image obatined by optical microscope were peocessed including pretreatment, region growth segmentation and thinning algorithm. Smooth, continuous and single pixel distribution central axis was attained using central axis method based on the previous processing. Diameters of 100 samples randomly selected from 6 batches of cashmere were meaured using this new method and their mean was compared with the real value. Results show that the average error of cashmere fiber diameter is 0.29 μm, and the mean square error is 0.05; and the average error of wool fiber diameter is 0.37 μm, and the mean square error is 0.06. The similarity between diameters of cashmere and wool and the real values peoves the accuracy of this method. In addition, the better robustness of this method is peoved by the result of mean aquare.

In fluence of hydrogen bonding on electrospinning of starch nanofiber in dimethyl sulfoxide/H₂O solution

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  19-23.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160900205

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In order to investigate the influence of hydrogen bonding on the starch nanofiber, starch nanofibers were prepared by electrospinning using dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO)/H2O solution system. The influence of hydrogen bonding on starch dissolution and starch fiber formation were studied. The surface morphology and structure of electrospun starch fiber were characterized by scanning electron microscopy, infrared spectroscopy, differential thermal analysis, X-ray diffraction and tensile test. The results show that DMSO destroyed hydrogen bonds in starch molecules, which facilitates the dissolution of starch. With the increase of the water content in the solution system, hydrogen bonds will formed between water and hydroxyl groups on the starch chain. On one hand, the formation of hydrogen-bonding network structure in the solution system results in poor spinnability starch solution. On the other hand, for the electrospun fiber membrane, hydrogen bonds will be formed between water and the starch molecules, which will inhibit the free movement of molecular chains of the nanaofibers. This will result in increasing of the breaking strength and decreasing of the breaking elongation of the starch nanofibers.

Influence of tris (2-hydroxyethyl) isocyanurate-based intrmescent flame retardants on combustion performance of polymers

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  24-31.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161003808

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In view of the problem of low combustion performance of polymer, two charring agents tris (2-hydroxyethyl) isocyanurate terephthalate ester (T-ester43 and T-ester45) with different degree of esterification were synthesized by using tris (2-hydrooxyethyl) isocyanurate (THEIC) and purified terephthalic acid (PTA) as raw materials. Two kinds of intumescent flame retardants (IFR43 and IFR45) were prepared by combination of T-ester and ammonium polyphosphate (APP).The preformed IFR were melt blended with four commercial thermoplastics to obtain flame retardant polymer blends. It is found that, after esterification, the decomposition temperature of charring agent increased up to 300℃ and char residue at 700 ℃ increases up to 10% from 1%. With 20% mass loading of IFR43 into PA6, PET, PLA, and PP, the char residue increased by 14.97%, 9.69%, 11.59%, and 7.25%, respectively. Correspondingly, the limiting oxygen index (LOI) value of polymers enhanced by 6%~7%. The melt drops during LOI test decreased. In addition, crystallization acceleration effect is found in the sample of PLA after addition of IFR.

Influence of filament distribution pattern on properties of composite yarns

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  32-39.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160805308

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To analyze the influence of inner structural changes on composite yarn properties during the varied filament composite spinning by changing the filaments and the roving positions, six different structures of composite yarn models were systematically designed and built to analyze and predict the properties of the corresponding yarns. Different structural composite yarns were produced experimentally to verify the composite yarn models. Different composite yarn properties including hairiness, evenness and tensile properties were compared and analyzed. The results show that the composite yarn with filaments wrapping from both sides of the strand had better evenness and higher tenacity than that of yarns with single core-filament spun structure. When the composite yarns had both bilateral wrapping and core-filament structures, an optimized yarn strength and evenness are owned. The increased filament tension and filament-strand spacing could effectively enhance the short fiber control and reduce composite yarn hairiness.

Relationship between design elements and color rendering law of one-weft shaded weaves

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  40-44.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161200505

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In order to made full use of the one-weft shaded weave is improve and refine the digital simulative jacquard fabric design, the relationship between the design elements of the shaded weaves and its color rendering law in the monochrome single-layer fabrics was analyzed. Basic weave, transition direction and increasing rate of interlacing points are three key design elements of the shaded weave structure. The influences of those three design elements on the color rendering law were analyzed by means of the strdies of their properies and the color values of fabric specimens. The results proves that the transition direction of interlacing points decides the color rendering law of shaded weaves, the step number of basic weave plays different role in the law when the shaded weaves designed with different transition directions; and theincreasing rate of interlacing point is a parameter that subdivides the lightness value range of fabric specimens, but it is incapable of deciding the variation of the lightness value.

Structure design and handle evaluation of warp knitted denim

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  45-50.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161101706

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The indigo yarns have lower color fastness, stain the skin easily and made the skin the humid feeling after moisture absorption, and the weft knitted denim is easy to ladder and has bad dimensional stability. To solwv above problems, the warp knitted denim fabrics were designed with indigo and gray yarns, irregular circle cross-section polyester black yarns, and spandex on Tricot of Karl Mayer with the four bars to let polyester close to the skin and cotton yarn appear in other side. The surface of different cross-section polyester was characterized by scanning electron microscope. The tensile properties of polyester, indigo and gray cotton yarns were tested. The bursting stregth, tensile slastic resilience and moisture absorption properties were investigated. The handle of the fabric was evaluated by the PhabrOmeter. The results show that the hairiness index of indigo yarn has a reduction by 17.1% and the strength was higher compaued with the gray cotton yarn. The water absorbency ratio, vertical wicking height, handle and wrinkle recovery of the warp knitted denim fabric woth irregular cross-section polyester are impeoved notably.

Shielding effectiveness of double and multilayer electromagnetic shielding fabric

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  51-58.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161002508

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In order to study the shielding effectiveness of multilayer electromagnetic shielding fabric, by changing laminated angle, spacing, laminated methods and number of layers, double and multilayer electromagnetic shielding fabric with orthogonal conductive grid structure and parallel structure of metal fiber yarns in single direction were built. The flange coaxial method was used to test the shielding effectiveness of the fabric in 0.3 ~ 1.5 GHz. According to the results, for the fabric with the same warp and weft and metal yarn spacing, shielding effectiveness of double-layer fabric is obviously higher than single layer fabric when shielding layer thickness is less than skin depth. Beyond the skin depth, increases of shielding effectiveness are not significant. The shielding effectiveness of three or more layers fabric is no longer significantly increased. And the shielding effectiveness increases with the increase of interlayer spacing. For the double fabric composed of single fabric containing metal fiber yarn in only weft direction, the shielding effectiveness increases with the increase of weft yarn cross angle. Moreover, with the increase of interlayer spacing, the shielding effectiveness increases when weft yarn is stacked horizontally in double fabric, and decreases when stacked vertically.

Modeling and tensile performance of negative Poissin's ratio warp-knitted spacer structures based on mesh structure

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  59-65.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161003107

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For the purpose of constructing a 3-dimensional negative Poisson's ratio structure by adopting spacer warp knitting techniques, a simple model based on the structure of negative Poisson's ratio warp-knitted spacer hexagonal meshes was established and several samples were produced using Raschel double needle-bed warp knitting machine. The results of both mathematical modeling and experimental sampling indicate that negative Poisson's ratio performances of this structure mainly depend on the contraction distortion in initial state in three axis directions, especially in y-axis direction. When it comes to knitting parameters, including yarn fineness, machine gauge, fabric density, movement of guide bars and inclination angle of wales, all of them matter in the nerformances which is also affected by the stiffness of materials and the lodging of spacer yarns. It is also concluded that successive inlaying in the same direction of the spacer guide bar is in favor of the contraction distortion in y-axis direction, which means that negative Poisson's ratio performances can be more easily achieved in this way.

Bending peoperties comparison of thick-section carbon fiber composites based on different three-dimensional woven structures

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  66-71.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161106006

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In order to investigate bending properties of carbon fiber composites with varied three-dimensional (3-D) woven structures, Shallow-Straight-Joint, Shallow-Bend-Joint and three-directional (3-D) Orthogonal as basic structures of composite performs were selected. All these performs were woven with carbon fibers and prepared to be composite samples by vacuum assistant resin infusion (VARI) technology. The bending properties in three directions of XYZ were tested and compared among the three structures. With comparing the bending performances of different structural composites, some conclusions are conducted as follows: 3-D orthogonal structural reinforcement preform has the highest contribution to the composite mechanical properties, because its warp yearns are straightly maintained in the structure. Composites with the Shallow-Straight-Joint structure has the highest cumulative bending strength in Z-warp direction and Z-weft direction. Its bending properties are relatively balanced in all directions. Owing to the frequently interlocking and the farthest warp crimp, composites with Shallow-Bend-Joint structure achieve the worst bending properties in the warp and weft direction.

Establishment of afterglow brightness model for luminous computer-embroidery fabric by response surface methodology

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  72-75.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161105404

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In order to further expand the application scope of luminous embroidery thread and improve the luminous intensity of luminous computer-embroidery fabric,  a computer-embroidery fabric which can emit the light with a long afterglow effect during the night was prepared by using Wilcom 9.0 software and FuYi computer embroidery machine. The influences of three kind of process parameters of stitch spacing, stitch speed and excitation time on afterglow brightness of fabric were investigated by using the Box- Behnken method, and a response surface model of afterglow brightness was obtained by designing the orthogonal test with the above three factors. The results indicated that compared with stitch spacing and stitch speed, the excitation time has a remarkable influence on afterglow brightness of fabric. The optimum technological conditions are: excitation time of 20 min, stitch length of 4.5 mm and stitch spacing of 0.4 mm, and the afterglow brightness under the suitable conditions is 1.6215 cd?m-2.

Evaluation of uncertainty for measurement of moisture-absorption and heat-generating of textiles

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  76-80.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161102805

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In order to improve the accuracy of testing results of moisture-absorption and heat-generated properties of textile, the uncertainty for moisture-absorption and heat-generated properties test of textiles was assessed, using the method of FZ/T 73036-2010 Moisture-absorption and Heat-generated Knitted Underwear Appendix A to test the moisture-absorption and heat-generated properties of knitted fabric. Analyzing and calculating the influencing factors including thetemperature sensor, timer, random effect during the test procedure, the uncertainty component of two important evaluation indexes which effect during the test procedure, the uncertainty component of two important evaluation indexes which affect the maximum temperature rise value and average temperature rise value in 30 minutes. And then  the combined uncertainty and extended uncertainty were assessed. The result show that the combined uncertainty of the maximum temperature rise value which is 0.35℃, and the combined uncertainty of the average temperature rise value in 30 min is 0.19℃. The uncertainties caused by temperature sensor and timer are less than that caused by the random effects during the testing process.The uniformity of the sample composition, the sampling position and other random factors are the main factors affecting the repeatability of testing

Photocatalitic color stripping of cotton fabric dyed with reactive dye by employing UV/H2O systerm

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  81-88.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170100308

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A novel method for color stripping of cotton fabric dyed with reactive dye was developed by employing photocatalysis technology and a dipping manner in water system, namely as the UV/H2O system, in order to resolve the problems about the high consumptions of chemicals and energy, as well as serious environmental pollution during conventional color stripping in textile industry. The color stripping parameters such as solution pH value, temperature, stripping duration, and their influences on the color stripping efficiency, tensile strength of cotton fabric were investigated. Moreover, the influences of stripping processes on the structure and morphology of cotton fibers were also investigated by infrared spectroscope and scanning electron microscope analysis. The results demonstrate that an excellent color stripping efficiency is achieved by utilizing photocatalitic color stripping method with a dipping manner in UV/H2O system. Moreover, a color stripping efficiency as high as 88% for cotton fabric dyed with reactive dye M-3BE (1%(o.m.f)) along with a remained tensile strength about 93% is achieved under optimized conditions of solution with pH of 6 at 20℃ and a duration of 40 min. In comparison with colored sample, less influence on the chemical and morphology structures is observed by employing a relative short photocatalitic color stripping duration with the dipping manner in the UV/H2O system.

Influence of pattern and ratio of hydrophobic area on moisture management property to cotton fabric

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  89-93.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160406706

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In order to improve moisture management property of cotton fabrics, local hydrophobic finishing by printing to change the hydrophobic properties of the fabric surface was carried out. The influence of pattern (square, circle, cruciform, triangle and pentagram), ratio of hydrophobic area (20%, 40%, 50%, 60%, 80%, and 100%) and size of hydrophobic pattem on moisture absorption, desorption, water vapor permeability, wetting and washing resistance of cotton fabric were studied. It is found that when a square pattern is adopted , the ratio of hydrophobic area to the total area of cotton fabric was 50% with a appropriate size of hydrophobic pattem, cotton fabric would have good quick-dry property and the ratio of hydrophobic area to the total area of cotton fabric is 50% with a appropriate size of hydrophobic pattern, with little influence on moisture absorption of cotton fabrics. The finished cotton fabric has good quick-drying property, and at same time it keeps good moisture management property and has a good washing durability.

Flame retardancy properties of dopamine modified polyester/cotton blended fabric treated by electrostatic layer-by-layer self-assembly

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  94-100.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170100407

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In order to impart excellent flame retardant property, 1 % Chitosan solution with pH value of 5 and 1.5 % sodium phytate solution with pH value of 2 were alternatively deposited on dopamine modified polyester/cotton 65/35 fabric by electrostatic layers-by-layer self-assembly method. The deposited time for the first bilayer was 15 min, after that, it was 5 min. In this treatment, 15 bilayrs were deposited. Limiting oxygen index (LOI), char length, thermal gravimetric analysis, heat release rate and morphology of char residue were discussec. The results show that dopamine modification can increase the reactivicy of flame retardant components. The treated polyester/cotton fabric significantly improved its flame retardancy compared with control fabric. LOI of treated polyester/cotton fabric is 28.7% while 18.8% of control fabrecs. The modified polyester/cotton 65/35 fabric decomposed earlier and char residue increased by 5.7% compared with control fabric. Average heat release rate(HRR) and peak HRR(PHRR) are 14.16 kW/m2 and 51.07 kW/m2, decreased by 84.62% and 78.47%, respectively, compared with control fabric. Flame retardant treatment can reduce the fire hazard during combustion.

Properties of crosslinking agent modified microfiber synthetic leather base

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  101-108.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161100709

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Aiming at the poor moisture absorption and water vapor permeability of microfiber synthetic leather, the filling material such as tannin extract and softening agent such as neats-foot oil were selected to the influences of modify microfiber synthetic leather base to improve the hydrophilic crosslinking properties. By experiment, some correlative factors such as the types and dosages of crosslinking agent, crosslinking time, crosslinking temperature and pH value on the properties of microfiber synthetic leather base were investigated. The result show that the moisture absorption of the base modified by crosslinking agent increased by 35.66%, the water vapor permeability increased by 53.23%, the mechanical properties are significantly improved, the thickening rate and weight gain rate of the base are very obvious, and the  modification does not affect its softness. The base before and after crosslinking were characterized by scanning electron microscopy, water contact angle, specific surface area, thermal analysis and x-ray diffraction analysis. The results indicated that the fiber loose degree increased significantly, the active group content and wettability of base increase, the specific surface area of the base increased and the fiber neat degree changes. Moreover, it increases the thermal stability of the bases.

Grafted modification of polypropylene melt-blown nonwowen materials with acrylic acid induced by plasma

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  109-114.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161200306

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To improve the hydrophilicity of polypropylene (PP) melt-blown nonwoven materials, the surfaces of materials were treated by argon plasma and then grafted by acrylic acid because of its chemical inertness of PP. The treated nonwoven materials show good hydrophilicity. The influence of different atmosphere, processing voltage and time on plasma treatment were studied. At the same time, the influence of grafting temperature, time, and monomer concentration on acrylic acid grafted treatment were also studied. Using contact angle analyzer, scanning electron microscope (SEM) and Fourier infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), hydrophilicity, surface morphology and group changes of materials before and after treatment were measured. The results show that under conditions of processing voltage of 150 V, the processing time of 180 s, argon plasma treatment, grafting time of 90 min, grafting temperature of 60 ℃ and acrylic monomers concentration of 60%, the sample contact angle decreased from 140 ° to 32 °, and hydrophilicity is the best.

Shape and structure characteristics of female jacket in the Mid and Late Ming Dynasty

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  115-119.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161008405

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In order to further analyze shape and structure characteristics of female jacket in the Mid and Late Ming Dynasty, the female coat unearthed and handed down is taken as the source of the material. By analyzing the local chronicles and excavation of tombs at that time, it is learnt that the change of shape and structure of the coat is mainly reflected in the collar, sleeve, and body part. According to the social and aesthetic characteristics, and combing the structure features and changes of the collar-type, sleeve-type and body part, the features of shape and structure changes of the female jacket in the Mid and Late Ming Dynasty was summarized. Shape and structure characteristics in different parts were revealed. The height of collar gradually reducs, and the opening gradually increases; the curvature of sleeve hemline increases; and the size of the large body is wider. It clarifies the characteristics the variety of styles, the coexistence of inheritance and innovation, enriches the research achievements on costume culture of the Ming Dynasty.

Automatic extraction on embroidered patterns

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  120-126.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160805007

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Manual extraction of embroidered patterns with human vision is time consuming, lab-intensive and subjectivitve. To overcome these difficulties, image analysis was adopted to complete the automatic recognition and aesthetic analysis of the embroidered patterns on the traditional consumes fabrics. Digital camera was used to realize the image acquisition of embroidered fabric. Image smoothing was then applied to the fabric image to remove the noise information and the fabric image was converted to Lab color space from RGB color space. K-Means clustering method was adopted to realize the color clustering based on a and b components in Lab color space. The accurate pattern and color information of the embroidered fabric were obtained based on the clustering results. The research results show that the image analysis can achieve the automatic extraction of embroidered patterns and the new segmentation method can be applied to quite a number of embroidered fabric patterns, which provides a brand new way for sample collection of aesthetic research.

Evaluation of color perception characteristics

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  127-130.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160903904

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In order to explore the characteristics of color perception, a variety of perceptive types and stimulating effects of color were invested by subjective evaluation and objective evaluation. 166 adjective vocabularies of color were collected and classified to select 8 kinds of representative phrases. The quantitative methods of perceptive was proposed. According to the event driven mechanism of the Visual Basic, two reaction experiments of color stimulus with or without target colors were designed to measure standard reaction time and identify reaction time. Color perception and the stimulus reaction time were analyzed for correlation. The results show that a significant correlation exists among many kinds of color perception. No relation exists between color perception and standard reaction time ,but 8 color perception. No relation exists between color perception and standard reaction time, but a close relationship between color perception and identify reaction time. Further analysis indicates that the color wavelength has more obvious effect on human psychology, and is the important factor to link identify reaction and color perception.

Theoretical study of influence of spiral angle of licker-in on carding quality

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  131-135.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161002106

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Spiral angle of the licker-in caused the fiber bundles to be combed by slant saw-teeth, which made fibers to by more easily damaged during the carding process of the licker-in of carding machine. To solve the problem, single saw-tooth was regarded as an object of study, and the mosaic and self-locking carding process was theoretically analyzed. Fiber stress was reaearced by building mechanical model under condition of different spiral angles. Also, the carding process of single saw-tooth was simulated with explicit dynamics module when spiral angle was 0°, 1° and 2°, respectively. The results show that when spiral angle is 0°，the friction force, stress and strain of fiber were smallest, and the larger the spiral angle, the more seriously the fiber was damaged, and the probability of fiber fracture is increased. Due to the spiral angle, the carding capability of single saw-tooth is declined, and the percentage of bundle fibers is increased, leading to the worse coming quality.

Loom fault analyses of tension anomaly based on tension spectrum

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  136-141.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170100806

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During the process of weaving, loom mechanical failure causing warp tension anomaly is difficult to find. A new fault diagnosis method was put forward based on the analysis of the warp tension signal and spectrum of warp tension. First the time domain signal and spectral shape of tension under ideal weaving condition were analyzed. At the same time, superimposed tension caused by different forms of mechanical faults of warp tension system and their characteristics in the wave spectrum; By comparing the spectrum difference mechanical faults causing warp tension naomaly were diagnosed. The correctness of this method was proved using the example of back rest of looms. Base on tension spectrum, mechanical failure parts which caused abnormal tension are positioned quickly and accurately, and it also provides an important reference for the adjustment of weaving process parameters.

Establishment of electromagnetic driving magnetic levitation projectile weft insertion principles

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  142-148. 

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For projectile Loom, torsion bar weft insertion mechanism, exists problems like large impact, low efficiency, high energy consumption, etc. A multi-stage electromagnetic picking principle was proposed. According to the theory of electromagnetic projection, the basic scheme of wefting insertion project/braking and the weft insertion models were established. By the theoretical model, experimental tests and simulation analysis, the conclusion that multistage electromagnetic casting efficiency is better than that of the torsion bar mechanism is obtained; for the projectile motion stability in high speed, the projectile magnetic suspension sley array system was proposed. The theoretical model of electromagnetic casting and magnetic suspension sley was established, and the velocity, acceleration and electromagnetic field coupling characteristics of projectile were analyzed. The feasibility of the electromagnetic drive was verified by the electromagnetic driving accelerated test and ANSYS finite element analysis, and "zero transmission" projectile wefting insertion mode was achieved.

Modeling and numerical simulating for for residual ammonia volatilization from yarn bobbin

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  149-154.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160903706

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In order to accurately grasp the mass transfer characteristics of residual ammonia in yarn bobbins after liquid ammonia treatment and increase the recovery ratio and recovery rate of ammoia, a mathematical model of mass transfer was established by condidering diffusion and convection. It became easier to analyze the mechanism of the emission of ammonia when the mass transfer equations was normalized. Then the Crank-Nicolson implicit difference method was used to solve the normalized mass transfer equations, and the stability and convergence of the algorithm are proved. Finally, the numerical results were compared with the experimental data, which proved the correctness of the model. The conclusion shows that the method of increasing wind velocity and decreasing the bobbin outer diameter can accelerate the volatilization of ammonia, and the ammonia volatilization process under low wind speed condition is an approximate steady state process.

Pilling objective evaluation based Gaussian filtering in wavelet domain

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  155-161.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161100807

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As the effect of the variety of fabric background textures and the feature of pilling defects, conventional algorithm of image processing is hard to satisfy the automatic detection of pilling defects and the objective evaluating demands. A new way of pilling objective evaluation based on the wavelet-domain of Difference of Gaussian  filter was proposed. First of all, pilling defect image was decomposed into multiple layers by wavelet multi-decomposition to separation periodic background texture and pilling information. Then, the appropriate wavelet decomposition sub-images were chosen to carry on difference of Gaussian filter for eliminating the noise and the background information of slow variation such as uneven illumination, and pilling information was improved significantly; and on this basis, a segmentation threshold was defined to segment these sub-images according to the characteristics of pilling, and the features of pilling form binary image was extracted. Finally, BP artificial neutral network wasused to objective evaluation of pilling grade. The test results show that this method can make an objective evaluation for pilling level effectively, and has strong interference resistance.

Calculation and assessment of industrial water footprint of textiles and apparel

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  162-167.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb20161001206

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In ordet to improve the water resource management for the indrustrial prodrction of textiles and apparel with water footprint methodology, the concept of industrial water footprint of textiles and apparel was introduced firstly. Then the key issues, including calculation boundary, calculation method, allocate principle of integrate data and assessment benchmark, in the calculation and assessment benchmark, in the calculation and assessment of industrial water footprint of textiles and apparel were discussed in detail. In light of the characteristics of fresh water consumption and waste water discharge in textiles and apparel industrial production processes, it was considered that the time boundary and input-output boundary must be defined before the calculation of industrial water footprint. Direct industrial water footprint is the key point of the calculation. Wastewater recycling can reduce blue industrial water footprint effectively and original grey industrial water footprint is the direct indicator of the environmental loads caused by industrial wastewater. Allocate principles with yield or value can increase the accuracy of the calculation results. The internal assessment is more meaningful for the reduction of fresh water consumption and pollutants emission for the specific product.

Research progress of new processes of flame retardant fabrics coating

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  168-173.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160905606

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The addition of hagogen-containing flame retardant was usually introduced to the treatment of textiles in conventional methods, which had a limited application due to its serious influence on environment. Based on new processes of flame retardant coation focused researchers both at home and abroad, the new technologies of coatings recently developed in the textle field for flame retardant properties to naturat or synthetic fibers and fabrics, such as sol-gel process, layer by layer assembly and biomacromolecule deposition were reviewed. The specific process and the latest advances of flame retardant fabrics were elaborated. Compared to sol-gel process and layer by layer assembly technologies, the research of biomacromolecule deposition is relative few, but it provides a new sustainable route for the flame retardant finishing of textile materials, and puts forward the new approach of the flame retardant coatings to fabrics.

Research progress of human skin wetness perception

JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(09):  174-180.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161007607

Abstract ( 614 )   PDF (2101KB) ( 245 )   Save

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To evaluate skin wetness perception more comprehensively, and make a better understanding on its mechanism, the related research was reviewed. The formation mechanism of skin wetness perception was elaborated from the perspective of neurophysiology and cognitive neuroscience; and the methods of implementing stimulation in testing process were also summarized, as well as evaluation methods at current stage; In addition, factors affecting skin wetness perception were induced from aspects, including external simulation factors of temperature and mechanical simulation and fabric properties and clothing structure, as well as human factors of differences in regional perception and surface features. It holds on that in the future, the contact simulation between the skin and the fabric during clothing should be more realistic and combined with neurophysiology, as well as other disciplines, to deepen the study of the different groups of wetness sensitivity and provide a more theoretical basis for the optimization of clothing design and improvement of clothing comfort.