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Table of Content

    15 October 2017, Volume 38 Issue 10
    • Preparation and properties analysis of polyacrylonitrile anti-ultraviolet composite nanofibers
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  1-6.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161002706
      Abstract ( 490 )   PDF (1844KB) ( 178 )   Save
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      In order to prepare functional nanofiber products, polyacrylonitrile (PAN) and UV absorber (UV531) were chose as raw materials to prepare pure PAN and mixed PAN/UV531 nanofibrous membrane by electrospinning. The morphologies, chemical and UV-protectionl performance were analyzed using scanning electron microscop, Fourier transform infrared and UV transmittance analyzer. The results show that the presence of UV531 decreas the diameter of PAN/UV531. Infrared spectra of PAN and composite nanofibers all express the characteristic peaks of PAN, indicating that the addition of UV531 does not change the interior structure of PAN. In addition, the addition of UV531 enhances the UV-absorptoin perfomance and UV-protection performance, and with the increasing of UV531 content, the UV-absorption value and UV pretection factor (UPF) increased, while the transmittance of UVA and UVB decreased. Hence, the PAN/UV531 composite nanljibers are excellent anti-ultraviolet products.

      Synthesis of fluorinated polyurethane and acid-proofness and water permeability of electrospun nanofiber membrane composite fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  7-12. 
      Abstract ( 397 )   PDF (1808KB) ( 183 )   Save
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      In order to allow acid-proofing fabric to have high protective performance and comfortability, a kind of electrospun fibrous membranes composite fabrics with high acid-proofness and water permeability were prepared by introducing fouoro into polyurethane (PU) by synthesis to obtain fluorinated polyurethane (FPU), processing FPU into nanofiber by lelectrostatic spinning,  and depositing on the fabric surface. FPU were characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy FT-IR and nuclear magnetic resonance(NMR) , and the acid-proofness and water permeability of the composite fabrics were investigated.FT-IR results indicate that hte synthesized peoduct is FPU. NMR results indicated that chemical structure of FPU is the same as the desired one. Contact angle measurements suggested that PU/FPU fibrous membranes composite fabric possessed remarkable superhydrophobicity and corrosion resistance with contact angle to water up to 141° and 80% H2SO4 up to 124°. Comfort property test show that the resultant composite fabrics present high water permeability of 4177.49 g/(㎡•24h), and good air permeability of 24.15 mm/s.

      Glass fiber reinforced polylactic acid composites based on 3D printing technology
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  13-18.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161205506
      Abstract ( 547 )   PDF (1672KB) ( 144 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problem of low strength in 3D printing resin-based materials, fibers were used to reinforce resin-based materials. Glass fibers and polylactic acid were blended and rapidly formed by using 3D printing technology. The injluences of filling density and slice thickness on the mechanical properties of the composites were studied. The results of mechanical experiments show that the flexural strength and tensile strength of the samples can reach 49.26 MPa and 21.28 MPa, respectively, when the filling density of the samples is 90%. When the slice thickness of the sample was 0.1mm, the obtained tensile strength and flexural strength were 20.4 MPa and 52.87 MPa, respectively. By the analysis of the results of mechanical experiments, the tensile strength of the samloes decreases as the slice thickness increases, and increasing as the filling density increases. The flexural strength of the specimen is negatively correlated with the slice thickness, and is positively correlated with the filling density. By analyzing scanning electron microscopy images of cross sections of different kinds of samples, the degree of fiber bundle infiltration resin matrix is closely related to the slice thickness and filling density of the sample, and the increase in filling density and the reduction in slice thickness facilitate the bonding of the fiber bundle with the resin matrix.

      Properties of flax and hemp blended yarn based on swirl nozzle spinning
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  19-24.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161002306
      Abstract ( 496 )   PDF (1772KB) ( 197 )   Save
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      In order to solve the peoblem on yarn hairiness caused by hemp's and flax's self performance and the restriction of traditional textile technology, this paper applied swirl nozzle spinning technology in the spinning process of refined flax/long stapled cotton/tencel and refined hemp/cotton/viscose blended yarns, then chose the proper spinning parameters and tested the main performance of the yarns. The results showed that the hairiness index of swirl nozzle flax blended yarn is reduced by 89.9% when the air pressure in the vortex nozzle is 0.01MPa, and the hairiness index of hemp blended yarn is reduced by 99% when the air pressure is 0.05MPa. Two kinds of blended yarns have closer body, neat rows of fibers and cleaning surface, the yarns are wrapped by black viscose filaments uniformly, which makes the yarn color more even. Yarn breaking strength and the uneven value with slightly lower, but the change is not obvious.

      Matching color technology of color blended yarn based on modified Stearns-Noeche model
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  25-31.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161103207
      Abstract ( 324 )   PDF (1656KB) ( 144 )   Save
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      Aiming at the peoblem that conventional artificial color matching is complicated, and low in efficient, and the existing computer color matching algorithm can not meet the needs of production practice. A computer-aided color matching system for colored fiber was developed in MatLab software, and the color mataching and the xolor repairing module of the system were improved. In the color matching module, the method of calculating the mean vwlue of the M value and the recipe solution based on the least squares method were improved by using the method of assignment and iteration to the unknown value M and the initial recipe of the monochromatic fiber in the  [0 1] interval. In the repairing module, the tristinulus value or the reflectance color repairing algorithm based on the least squares method was improved by the method of minimizing the difference in the function of monochromatic fiber. The colord matching model can achieve the matching result with color difference smaller than 1 after reparing color for 1~2 times , which can satisfy the basic requirements of the color matching and color repairing of multi-component and fixed proportion in the production process of colored fibers yarn.

      Analysis and modification of structure phase model of woven fabric
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  32-37.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160803306
      Abstract ( 391 )   PDF (1737KB) ( 210 )   Save
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      Based on the conventional structure phase model of woven fabric fails to reflect the difference to different weaves, the constraints and the insufficiency of the model was analyzed, and the structure phase model capable of effcetive reflecting weave cinformation was also established. It was the first time to put forward the concept of the relative yarn wave highness, which is used to identify the bending status of yarn in different weaves, providing theoretical basis for the modification of the structure phase model. The results show that the structure phase from the modified model increases with the increases of the yarn wave highness, but the relationship between them is nonlinear. For different weave, the fabric structure phase is not fixed to form the equivalent support structure (except the phase 0), and the same yarn wave highness corresponds to the different structure phase value with the order relationship as plain <
      twill < satin. In the lower structure phase region, the structure phase has a nonlinear relationship with the yarn wave highness, therefore, in the higher structure phase region, the structure phase has a well fit between the modified model and the conventional model.

      Structure design and elastic resilience of weft knitted denim fabric
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  38-43.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161105606
      Abstract ( 600 )   PDF (1594KB) ( 97 )   Save
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      The research works of denim fabric focus on the shape preserving property and dimensional syability. Two types of structures of 11 weft knitted denim fabrics wer designed for the pants. Cotton, polyester and spandex were designed as the materials and the materials and the structures as loop or trck combined with floating. The elastic resilience was tested. The results showed that the the longitudinal elastic resilience was better than the horizintal one. The designed weft denim fabrics were adaptive for cross-cut. The longitudingal direction was the leg curcumference, and the horizontal direction as the lengyt of pants. The elastic resilience of horizontal direction was influenced significantly by the structure and the length of floating, and the longitudenal direction by the linear density, proportion, and loop lengyt of spandex. As the same structure of six cam systems twill, the repeatedly elastic resilience of longitudinal durection of weft knitted denim fabric was inwersely peoportional to the linear density of non-elastic yarns

      Pattern prediction of flat-knitted fabric with section dyed yarn
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  44-48.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161203505
      Abstract ( 584 )   PDF (1766KB) ( 123 )   Save
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      In order to simply predict the pattern shape of flat-knitted fabric with a given section dyed yarn, the characteristics of segment color distribution and the knitting way of the fabric were analyzed. The distribution regularity of segment color in the fabric was defined and could be simulated using the triangle wave. A simulation program for pattern of the flat knitted fabric with given section dyed yarn was deveolped by using MatLab program. The predicted results are in good agreement with the fabric samples. The result showed that changeable patterns can be formed as the characteristics of segment color distribution combined with the knitting way of the fabric. The apttern shape is closely related to the length of color segment cycle and yarn used in a course of the fabric. The prediction of pattern can be easily realized by the MatLab program.  The required pattern can be obtained by changing the number of knitting needles and by selecting or designing the section dyed yarn.

      Permeation behavior and permeability of warp-knitted quadri-axial glass fiber fabric
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  49-56.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161100208
      Abstract ( 628 )   PDF (2373KB) ( 165 )   Save
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      In order to study the relationship between the flow behavior and the structure of warp-knitted quadri-axial glass fiber fabric, the planar permeability and the unidirectional permeability of the preforms with different ply numbers and ply angles were measured by radical flow permeability test method and unidirectional permeability test method. The cross-section of the composite was analyzed to identify the impediment effect on flowing by fabric’s concave and convex surface. The unidirectional permeability of multi-layer preforms was predicted by empirical formula with the variation of fiber volume fraction. The experimental results show that  no direct relationship exists between the permeability and the fiber volume fraction in preform with lower ply numbers. However, the permeability is closely related to the number of flow channels which are formed by the fabric surface under compression and parallel to the flow direction. For preforms with different ply angles, the one with the largest number of parallel flow channels has the highest permeability. The empirical formula was more accurate comparing with the Kozeny-Carman formula in predicting the unidirectional permeability of the warp-knitted quadri-axial glass fiber fabric.

      Tensile creep characteristics of polyvinyl chloride coated membrane material with damage
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  57-64.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160505308
      Abstract ( 341 )   PDF (2044KB) ( 93 )   Save
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      To further investigate the mechanical behavior of membrane materials, short-term tensile creep test on un-notched and single-edge notched specimens were conducted based on a PVC coated membrane material, the influence of notch size and creep stress on tensile creep behavior were analyzed, and tensile creep characteristics were also studied. The experimental results demonstrate that the initial creep and constant creep rate creep stage are also exhibited in un-notched and notched specimens. Under the same net-cross creep stress, notched specimens exhibit lower creep strain than un-notched specimens, and creep strain decreases with the increase of notch size. Compared with Findley model, the 4-element Burger model is more appropriate to describe the short-term tensile creep behavior for the PVC coated membrane material. Meanwhile, the influences of creep stress and notch size on the initial creep strain, delay-elastic deformation and viscous deformation were also discussed, based on the fitted parameters obtained by the 4-element Burger model.

      Influence of size compatibility on mechanical properties of blended size films
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  65-69.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160905805
      Abstract ( 309 )   PDF (1670KB) ( 61 )   Save
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      The influence of sizes compatibility on the mechanical properties of blended size films and corresponding pulp adhesion were studied. The morphological structure of the blended size films were characterized by using scanning electron microscope and X-ray diffraction, and the relationsip between different size components and film properties was investigated. It is found that, when the mixing ratio of polyvingl alcohol (PVA1799)/modified starch is 40 to 60, the blended size pulp has the greatest adhesion force and the blended size film has the greatest tensile strength and elongation, and PVA polymers having low degree of alcogolysis (PVA1788 ) can cause the phase separation and smaller crystallinity in the blended films, which lead to the poorer mechanical properties of the blended films. In order to rise size compatibility and strengthen mechanical properties of blended films, size components should be as few as possible.

      Synthesis and performance evaluation of mothproof naphthoquinone pigments for wool fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  70-74.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160500705
      Abstract ( 618 )   PDF (1453KB) ( 75 )   Save
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      In order to develop pigments having the function of mothproofing, fluorine-containing naphthoquinone acylhydrazone (NQ-FH) and pyrazolone (NQ-FP) were prepared from 2-amino-3-chloro-1,4-naphthoquinone. The sturctures of NQ-FH and NQ-FP were characterized by ultraviolet spectrometry, infrared spectrometry, nuclear magnetic resonance spectrometry, mass spectrometry and elemental analysis. The results indicated that, owing to ethanol solubilization,  the color of NQ-FH or NQ-FP treated wool fabric was orange or purple, respectively. Compared with NQ-FH, the K/S valur or the dyeing rate after washing of NQ-FP treated wool fabric increases by more than 1.8 times or 1 times, respectively, but the soaping fastness and the rubbing fastness decrease by more than 1 grade. The mothproofing adta obtained from the authoritative testing institutions show that, compared with the untreated wool fabrics, the weight-loss rate of NQ-FP treated fabrics decreases at least by 70%, the visible surface damage was grade-3, the decay-hole was grade-C, but the dyeing performance and the mothproofing activity should be further improved.

      Preparation and photocatalysis of acrylic acid grafted cotton cellulose-based TiO2/C photocatalyst
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  75-80.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161105206
      Abstract ( 632 )   PDF (1879KB) ( 223 )   Save
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      In view of the problems of low value addition and functionalization of recycled waste cotton fabric, cotton cellulose grafted with acrylic acid was employed as a template and catalytic charring effect of ammonium dihydrogen phosphate was involved. Anatase TiO2/C composite catalyst in fiber form was prepared via a surface sol-gel method and flame burning with a precursor of tetrabutyl titanate and a solvent of anhydrous ethanol. The effects of acrylic acid photografting and ammonium hydrogen phosphate treatment on photocatalytic performance of TiO2/C photocatalyst were discussed. The morphology, crystalline structure and thermal loss were analyzed using scanning electron microscopy (SEM), X-ray diffraction (XRD) and thermogravimetric analysis (TG). The results showed that the cotton cellulose based TiO2/C photocatalyst exhibited better photocatalytic performance, which was prepared by grafting with acrylic acid of 30wt%, soaking in NH4H2PO4 solution of 15wt% for 20min, depositing 10 times via filtration of tetrabutyl titanate and burning in air for 2h. Relatively small size and well-distributed anatase TiO2 was responsible for better photocatalytic performance.

      Optimization on antibacterial finishing process of cotton fabric based on electron beam irradiation
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  81-87.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161103607
      Abstract ( 434 )   PDF (2177KB) ( 179 )   Save
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      In order to realize efficient antibacterial performance of cotton fabrics, clotrimazole, used as antibacterial agent was grafted onto cotton fibers by antibacterial finishing, and the effect of pad-dry-cure, electron beam irradiation, together with plasma pretreatment on antibacterial properties of cotton fabrics was demonstrated. The optimum condition of electron-beam irradiation was investigated by orthogonal experiments, which included such factors as the concentration of finishing agent, soaking time and irradiation dose. The electron-beam irradiation processing could be optimized under the condition of concentration of finishing agent of 15%, soaking time of 60 min and irradiation dose of 65 kGy. In addition, a series of standard tests were carried out on cotton fabrics finished by pad-dry-cure (PDC) processing, electron beam irradiation (EB) processing and electron beam irradiation processing based on plasma pretreatment (P-EB), including observation of surface morphology, Infrared spectra characterization, antibacterial performance as well as fastness to washing, breaking strength and whiteness. The results show that clotrimazole is successfully grafted onto cotton fabrics finished by all three finishing processes mentioned above. Peculiarly, the antibacterial activity of cotton fabrics finished by P-EB is the most optimized, on account of the finished cotton fabrics’ perfect fastness to washing and its breaking strength and whiteness conforming to apparel fabric standards.

      Influence of degreasing and bleaching process on performance of pure cotton spunlaced nonwovens used for medical treatment and hygiene
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  88-93.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161204106
      Abstract ( 885 )   PDF (1979KB) ( 314 )   Save
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      In order to improve the performance of nonwoven fabric used for medical treatment and hygiene, the optimal degreasing and bleaching process was determined by orthogonal test and range analysis which is studied by NaOH / H2O2 one-step method and studied the effects of the Bleaching-to-Spunlaced and the Spunlaced-to-Bleaching process on water absorption, whiteness, strength, softness and permeability of the spunlaced nonwoven fabric. The results show that the optimum parameters are as follows: time 60min, liquor ratio 1:30, temperature 95 ℃. The effect of temperature on fiber whiteness and water absorption was the most significant, and time had the greatest effect on fiber strength. The thickness, weight and tensile strength of cotton spunlaced nonwoven fabric with the best bleaching parameters decreased, and the water absorption increased significantly. The Bleaching-to-Spunlaced nonwoven fabric prepared with this parameter combination has higher tensile strength and elongation, and the Spunlaced-to-Bleaching nonwoven fabric has better softness, permeability and water absorption.

      Influence of clothing adopting ventilation system on thermal comfort
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  94-97.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170303004
      Abstract ( 889 )   PDF (1172KB) ( 228 )   Save
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      In order to investigate the effect of personal cooling clothing on human body thermal comfort, the influence of ventilation clothing used small fans on the evaporative resistance and thermal comfort via sweating thermal manikin and human wear trials. It was found that when the ventilation rate was 12 l/s the evaporative resistance of the clothing was reduced by 58%. The local skin temperatures and the mean skin temperature were much lower when the fans were opened and the subjects exercised in an environment of 25oC, 50%RH, especially the chest and the calf skin temperatures. Significant difference of the local and mean skin temperatures of the male subjects were observed between the fans opened and closed conditions (p<0.05). After exercising 20 mins and resting 20 mins, the mean skin temperature were reduced by 2.4 oC and 0.9 oC respectively, compared with the fans closed condition. The ventilation clothing with the small fans could be used as a prototype for the improvement of thermal comfort.

      Style and handicraft feature of traditional bamboo coat
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  98-103.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161102706
      Abstract ( 805 )   PDF (1983KB) ( 281 )   Save
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      In order to study the structure and quality of different bamboo coats and summarize the specifications and special skills, comparative study on different shapes and braid process features of bamboo coats has been made. The study based on 15 different sample bamboo coats and vests, which were preserved by domestic and abroad museums and private collectors such as the folk Costume Museum of Jiangnan University. These samples were dated from the Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China. Moreover, the details, compositions, similarities and differences of bamboo coats were deeply discussed. Furthermore, based on the special structure, braid organization and performance of bamboo coats, the three - dimensional structure, process skill and structural parameters of different parts of bamboo coats were analyzed. The results showed that, the bamboo beads installed-piping design of the bamboo coat is derived from the treasure of the material, which has been found via the simulation of the overall shape of the bamboo coats through the two - dimensional plane structure; and the differences of selected samples existed due to the variation of the wearer’s gender, figure and stature.

      Optimization design of multi-light source for foreign fiber detection based on clustering neural network
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  104-112.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161004909
      Abstract ( 430 )   PDF (2249KB) ( 105 )   Save
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      In order to allow Charge-coupled Device CCD to accurately collect and deal with the different fiber image and detect the multiple types of different fibers, a new method based on fuzzy clustering neural network is proposed. Detailed describe the working principle of this kind of light source system, through the analysis of the relationship between CCD imaging and the incident light energy to determine the number of test of the light source; establish of exposure as a function of the amount of the CCD target surface, analyzes the optimum light source position detection; finally, the background image for the CCD plate light distribution and average gray level through the parametric equation of image analysis, by means of fuzzy clustering analysis, considering the input values of all the information build multi type of light source, fuzzy clustering neural network, optimization design of the light source and the number of distance. The design result shows that the best detection position is different fiber in position 1 / 2 of the tube, in the number of light source system for 10, distance on both sides of the light source is 3mm, the neural network convergence error reached the expected value, and the foreign fiber detection rate reaches 94.79 %, meeting the requirements of actual production.

      Control model and algorithm implementation for non-equal radius tubular fabric with variable weft density
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  113-117.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161203105
      Abstract ( 636 )   PDF (1430KB) ( 78 )   Save
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      To meet the requirements and automated production needs of controllable weft density and variable diameter tubular fabric, a control model was established. The control algorithm was also analyzed and realized. Firstly, Aiming at non-equal radius properties of fabrics, a continuously adjusting mechanism was designed, based on which, the relationship between rotation angle and time was deduced. And then, the variation of weft density was analyzed, and the relation between traction speed and time was also established. Based on the general regerssinon neural network, the nonlinear shape curve of the fabric was approached. To verify the feasibility of the model and algorithm, Matlab was used for simulation analysis. The control model and algorithm have the advantages of fast operation, simple structure and high precision, which can meet the requirements of carbon fiber composites preform weaving.

      Numerical simulation of condensation heat transfer in mandrel-containing horizontal heat exchanger tube
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  118-123.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160800106
      Abstract ( 288 )   PDF (1735KB) ( 151 )   Save
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      In order to improve the heat transfer efficiency of the steam heat exchanger, a new steam heat exchanger tube structure that with a mandrel inserted into a horizontal heat exchanger tube is proposed, and a two-phase flow model is built with commercial software FLUENT to analyze the heat transfer characteristics of the proposed heat transfer tube. Simulation results show that as the insertion of the mandrel, the heat transfer efficiency of the proposed heat transfer tube is improved by the increase of the average velocity and the velocity gradient near the tube wall of the two-phase flow. Quantitatively, the heat transfer ratio has the maximum value while the ratio of mandrel diameter to the horizontal heat transfer tube diameter, ?, is between the range [0.52, 0.57] for there are higher condensation ratio and higher velocity gradient, which make sure the temperature at the outlet of the heat transfer tube is lower and the heat transfer efficiency is more stable. Meanwhile, by according to the field synergy theory, the synergy characteristic increases as the increase of the ratio ?, and while ?>0.52, the mandrel has obvious effect on the enhancing of heat transfer ratio.

      Textured fabric detect detection based on windowed hop-step morphological algorithm
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  124-131.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161204308
      Abstract ( 642 )   PDF (2559KB) ( 135 )   Save
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      Aim at the problem of low detection efficiency and fabric jittering due to high production rate, when texture fabric defects are automatically detected. A textured fabric defect detection was presented based on a windowed hop-step morphological algorithm. Firstly, window sugnebtatuib and preprocessing on images were carried out, and then the image textuer features of the textured fabric were analyzed. Secondly morphological operators were designed for corrosion operation. Finally, the defect size and location are determined by connected domain analysis. Experimental simulation and practical application show that this algorithm can solve the problem of the images of uneven light and shade caused by the cloth trembling effectively, and the algorithm can detect the presence of detect in the fabric texture including warp and weft defects, holes, stains, thread defects and other defects. The detection algorithm has high stability and reliability so that can meet the actual production demand. The detection speed is superior to the speed of FFT feature point algorithm and traditional morphological algorithm. The real-time detection speed is more than 80m/min, and the size of the flaw detection accuracy is 0.1mm.

      Computer aided design system for flat-knitted fabric based on hyper text markup language 5
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  132-137.  doi:10.13475/20161204406
      Abstract ( 336 )   PDF (1840KB) ( 266 )   Save
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      In order to meet the requirement of online design of flat-knitted fabric, on the basis of conventional flat-knitted computer aided design (CAD), this paper designs and implements the Internet CAD system for flat-knitted fabric based on HTML5 technology. According to the design features and shaping principle of the flat-knitted fabric, the data of pattern and shaping are mathematical modeled and data structure optimized, respectively, and multiple view and shaping process design was realized. Meanwhile, combined with database technology develop the functions of sweater style and pattern custom database. And based on the research of pattern compiling, realize file export. Besides, researched the software architecture, the system is deployed on the server based on the B/S mode and runs on the client. Thus the separation of data process and display is realized. Finally, through the design example of jacquard scarf test the system. And the result proof that the system is intuitive, convenient and efficient for design fabric, meeting the demands of online design of flat-knitted fabrics.

      Operational efficiency evaluation of textile and clothing enterprises based on data envelopment analysis
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  138-145.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb20161101608
      Abstract ( 298 )   PDF (2327KB) ( 194 )   Save
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      In order to evaluate the operational efficiency of global textile and clothing enterprises and then assist enterprises to make decisions for partner selection or investment, three typical global regions, China, Japan and North America were selected to conduct contrastive analysis, and 70 global textile and clothing listed enterprises were filtered. Based on DEA approach, three evaluation models, CRS-DEA, VRS-DEA and SE-DEA, were proposed to conduct the analysis of efficiency performance, returns to scale, resource allocation and benchmarking enterprise. The results show that the enterprises under evaluation are 86% efficient, and they still have the room for improvement; 70% enterprises show decreasing returns to scale, and they have the low investment enthusiasm; the labor redundancy is the main problem for resource allocation, and the cost allocation performance is better that followed by capital allocation performance; Chinese enterprises have a trend of polarization in operational efficiency; the Lululemon company shows a distinguished performance.

      Brain cognitive characterization of contact pressure comfort of fabrics based on functional magnetic resonance imaging
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  146-152.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160904707
      Abstract ( 711 )   PDF (2092KB) ( 215 )   Save
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      On the issue of fabric comperhensive characterization of perception produced by contact pressure, squssze, friction, etc, the merits of the fabric contact pressure comfort evaluation methods both in the domestic and abroad were compared, and modern advanced medical imaging techonlogy, functional magnetic resonance imaging (fMRI) was combined to verify the uniqueness of the expression of the fMRI cerebral cortex evaluation to the visual expression of real perception by skin touch from two aspects of time & space resolution and fabric perception neural loop. By combining a large number of related cases at home and abroad, it is point outed that the brain areas associated woth comfort mat locate in contralateral secondary somatosensory cortex, while the discomfort perception may be formed in amygdala. As  for the questio of feasibility, by controlling the environment, human factors and stimulate duration properly and introducing end-tidal CO2 data as regressors, the intraclass correlation coefficient can be successfully improved from 0.4 below to 0.82. AII of these proves that fMRI will be a new practical method of objective characterization of contact comfort and cognition mechanism for textile material and engineering.

      Research progress of design methods of ventilation mechanism of clothing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  153-159.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160902506
      Abstract ( 561 )   PDF (1853KB) ( 162 )   Save
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      In order to explore the effective clothing ventilation design methods to improve wearer thermal and moisture comfort, permeable fabric configuration, clothing open design, wearable ventilation equipment are summarized on the heat transfer and ventilation mechanism. Effect of different design methods is also compared. The optimal ventilation design methods should be based on the comprehensive analysis of environment, human movement and physiological characteristics to satisfy the principal of local difference and compatibility. Local effective ventilation should be quantified in the future. In addition, air flow pattern should be further clear based on computational fluid dynamics to balance the various design methods and achieve the optimal ventilation effect.

      Big-data-driven framework for intelligent textile manufacturing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  159-165.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170601307
      Abstract ( 1327 )   PDF (2253KB) ( 505 )   Save
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      As the development of the 13th Five-Year Plan and intelligent manufacturing encourages the textile industry being smarter. This paper pointed out the key position of big data technologies in the coming new generation of Industrial Revolution, and set forth effect of trans-parent, lean, efficient and intelligent manufacturing process. According to reference architecture model industrie 4.0 and standard refer-ence model of intelligent manufacturing in China, this paper analyzed detail requirement of intelligent textile manufacturing, and got a conclusion that Cyber Physical System and Big Data technology in intelligent textile manufacturing took significant effect. The authors proposed a big-data-driven framework for intelligent textile manufacturing, expounds the three basic tasks in intelligent manufacturing: horizontal integration, vertical integration and end-to-end integration, and finally discussed some typically application scenarios such as intelligent product design, intelligent production organization and operation, intelligent sales and after-sale services based on big data platform.

      Analysis of some key technology basis for intelligent textile manufacturing and its equipment
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  166-171.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170705506
      Abstract ( 768 )   PDF (1891KB) ( 371 )   Save
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      For the purpose of providing theoretical reference of design and development for textile intelligent manufacturing equipment, promoting the technical development and propress of intelligent textile manufacturing industry, the connotation of intelligent manufacturing and its key technologies are analyzed nad combed, the current textile intelligent manufacturing situation and existing proboems are analyzed, and the involved key technologies development direction, and theoritical basos of textile intelligent manufacturing equipment system are discussed emphasically. The anslysis indicates that, setting up the multidisciplinary analysis model is the intelligentization for the textile intelligent manufacturing equipment system. Therefore, modeling theory framework for textile intelligent manufacturing equipement system has been established, the contents of which includes as follows: multidisciplinary modeling method with multi-field coupling, dynamic characteristics of peocess equipment system, working mechanism of equipment with textile material, and intelligent control method. It is indicated that researchon these theoretical basis peoblems can peovide theoretical and technical support for edvelopment and application of the textile intelligent manufacturing equipment system.

      Intelligent manufacturing and standard about interoperability verificationof knitting equipment
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  172-177.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170606905
      Abstract ( 797 )   PDF (1643KB) ( 157 )   Save
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      In order to solve peoblems such as the inconsistent interface of the knitting machines in the knitting industry and difficult realization of the intercommunication and interoperability of the machines, a series of industrial standards of the knitting machinery network communication interface were established. The standards cover the communication interface and data communication protocol of a flat knitting machine, a circular knitting machine and a wap knitting machine, and the intercommunication and interoability of the knitting machine within the standards are realized. At least therr test platjorms were built to test the intercommunication method and the reliability of the flat knitting machine, the circular knitting machine and the earp knitting machine so as to carry out industrial demonstration and generalization on the bais of standards verification. For the serving machines, the gateway standard is established and brought into the standard range. 

      Research advance of knitting intelligent manufacturing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(10):  178-183.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170700607
      Abstract ( 1118 )   PDF (2309KB) ( 430 )   Save
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      The definition of intelligent manufacturing was put forward. The research progress of knitting intelligent manufacturing was discussed from six aspects of intellectualization, including knitted product design, knitting equipment controlling, knitting manufacturing control, knitted apparel marketing, knitted product performance and knitting industrial service. The development of key technologies for knitting intelligent manufacturing was introduced. It was presented that the intelligent manufacturing was the inevitable choice for elevating the international competitive advantage under the new normal. Besides, it was emphasized that promoting intelligent manufacturing level would provide substantial support for rapid economic growth and high-level development.