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Table of Content

    15 December 2017, Volume 38 Issue 12
    • Effects of coaxial electrospinning parameters on morphology and carbonization yield of polyacrylonitrile hollow carbon nanofibers
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  1-6.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170300506
      Abstract ( 581 )   PDF (2161KB) ( 421 )   Save
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      In order to pripaare practicable polyacrylonitrile (PAN) hollow carbon nanofibers, effects of electrostatic field modes, core components and core needle diameters in the PAN coaxial electrospinning process on the hollow structure forming of the polyacrylonitrile carbon nanofibers and their carbonization yields were systematically studied. The experimental results showed that the core components influence the sheath-core forming of the PAN nanofibers and hollow structure forming of their PAN carbon nanofibers, not the electrostatic field modes and core needle diameters. SEM showed that the cross sections of the PAN carbon nanofibers with the PMMA solution or methylsilicone oil as core are hollow, and those with the PVP solution or air as core are solid. When the PMMA solution was used as core, the PAN nanofibers show the sheath-core structures with good interface compatibility because the sheath and core have the same solvent of DMF and are immiscible, the abtained PAN hollow carbon nanofibers possess the best surface mophology and regular hollow structure and the carbonization yields is 28~31.

      Crystallization behavior of bio-based polyamide 56 fibers
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  7-13.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170305807
      Abstract ( 679 )   PDF (1922KB) ( 395 )   Save
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      In order to study the influence of molecular structure and different processing parameters on the crystallization behavior of polyamide 56 fibers, the crystallization characteristics of different kinds of polyamides and bio-based polyamide 56 fibers by different processing ways were investigated by X ray diffraction.The crystallization behavior of polyamide 56 under different cooling rates were also analyzed by DSC testing experiments in this work. The results show that the crystallinity and the degree of orientation in crystalline region are the lowest compared with polyamide 6 and 66. The crystal cells of bio-based polyamide 56 fiber are not exactly equal in height and there may be some defects in crystalline region. Different processing ways of bio-based polyamide 56 fiber will result in different crystallization behaviors. The crystallization of bio-based polyamide 56 increases with the increase of the cooling rate and the crystallization rate reaches the maximum value when the temperature drops to about 210 °C. Furthermore, The faster the cooling rate is, the smaller the formation of the spherulite size is.

      Construction of mercapto-potassium persulfate surface-initiating system and application of grafting on feather surface
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  14-19.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170400206
      Abstract ( 551 )   PDF (1682KB) ( 255 )   Save
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      In order to introduce a new redox surface initiating systemon the feather surface, mercaptoacetic acid was used to reduce the disulfide bond in the disulfide bond in the feather into mercapto groups and potassium persulfate (KPS) disolved on the solution constitute a new redox surface initiating system, the graft-polymerization of glycidyl methacrylate (GMA) in the aqueous solvent was realized to obtaining the grafted polymer Feather-g-PGMA. The modified feather were characterized by FT-IR, SEM and TGA. The effects of monomer concentration, initiator concentration and temperature on the feather grafting were discussed. Experimental results show that the -SH/ KPS can smoothly initiate the graft-polymerization of GMA on the surface of feather in a aqueous solvent, the optimum conditions of graft-modified feather that monomer concentration is 0.55mol/L, initiator concentration is 2.6mmol/L and temperature is 40℃. The grafting rate of Feather-g-PGMA is up to 185.8% and the thermal stability of feather grafted PGMA is decreased.

      Structural characterization and applicaion of rabbit whiting
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  20-26.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160701807
      Abstract ( 494 )   PDF (2139KB) ( 224 )   Save
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      For a better development and ultilization of rabbit whiting produced in the spinning process of rabbit fiber,the rabbit whiting waste was tested by scanning electron microscopy (SEM),biuret test,sodium dodecyl sulfate polyacrylamide gel electropheresis (SDS-PAGE),fourier transform infrared spectroscopy,X-ray diffraction and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) to characterize its apparent structure and composition. The experimental result prove that the rabbit whiting is from the surface exfoliate of rabbit hair,which the length,width and thickness are range of 20~50μm,2.0~6.0 μm and 0.4~0.7μm respectively. And keratin as the main composition with?molecular?weight?11kDa approximately. Therefore,rabbit whiting is regard as a good material for keratin extraction. The keratin was extracted from rabbit whiting further via sulphitolysis method,as a kind of anti-ultraviolet additive applied in cosmetic. The rabbiting whiting has better ultraviolet ray absorption than sunscreen products via UV test in the ultraviolet range of 200~320nm.

      Stearns-Noechel color matching model of digital rotor spinning
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  27-32.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161204707
      Abstract ( 394 )   PDF (1931KB) ( 222 )   Save
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      In order to study the color matching principles for digital rotor spinning, Red, yellow and blue three primary colors cotton fiber are used to spin blended yarn, and measure the spectral reflectance of the samples with datacolor colorimeter. The Stearns-Noechel model parameters M of the two-component and three-component samples were determined by classical way,model parameter M is optimized considering the wavelength factor. Then the parameter M is simplified according to the optimal parameter M and the wavelength are linely related or segment-related. The study show that the average color difference of the two-component and three-component sample decreases from 2.7 to 1.48 and from 3.32 to 1.66 using the optimal parameter M, and the optimal parameter M has significant effect. The study also show that when the optimal parameters M and the wavelength are linearly related, the average color difference of two categories samples increases to 3.59 and 4.56, which can’t satisfy color matching needs, and when the optimal parameter M and the wavelength are segment-related, the average color difference of two categories samples is 1.54 and 1.91, better than the result of the classical algorithm. At the same time research find that Stearns-Noechel model has different color prediction ability for two-component and three-component samples, the prediction accuracy of two-component samples is better than that of three-component samples.

      Color fiber mixing formula algorithm based on Friele model
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  33-37.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170201505
      Abstract ( 473 )   PDF (1342KB) ( 288 )   Save
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      In order to improve the accuracy and practical ability of the color spinning algorithm in practical application, Datacolor SF600 was used to test the color value of the single colored yarn and the mixed yarn of the viscose fiber.On the basis of Friele model parameters Q,The method of [0 1] interval assignment iteration to obtain the optimal value,and compared with the method which needs to calculate an optimal fixed parameter value by a large number of experiments.The two different methods are used to predict the fitting formula and the fitting reflectivity.And calculate the color difference with the standard according to the CMC(l:c) color difference formula.The average color difference is 1.23 when the parameter Q is fixed, and the average color difference is 0.399 when the optimized parameter is not fixed,and then the prediction model of the mixing yarn reflectivity under the experimental condition is established.Select 14 different proportions of three-color blended yarn for spinning verification,the color difference is small, an the matching results of color difference less than 1 can be obtained after correction color for 1-2 times.

      Comparison of yarn properties between compact Siro false twist yarn and compact Siro yarn
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  38-42.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161104805
      Abstract ( 451 )   PDF (1636KB) ( 316 )   Save
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      To solve the problem of serious weft oblique bhenomenon of knitted fabric, using the hemp/ cotton (30/70) as raw material, two kinds of new spinning methods, compact Siro false twist spinning and compact sirospun, were introduced to produce the 15 tex yarn. Using visual analysis method and independent samples T test of the SPSS software, the significance analysis was carried out to compare the yarn twist, wet snarling number, yarn hairiness, yarn strength and other performances of the different kinds of modified yarn. The results shows if yarn count and twist factor of the two different types of yarns are the same, the compact Siro false twist spinning can produce smoothly, but the compact sirospun has higher breakkage due to its low strength. Based on normal production, compared with compact sirospun, compact Siro false twist spinning shows significantly better performances in yarn twist, wet snarling number, yarn strength, harmful yarn hairiness number above 3 mm, yarn evenness. Even when the designedtwist factor is reduced by about 16%, the spinningprocess can also work well. What's more, the number of hairiness over 3 mm is reduced by about 90%, yarn evenness CV value is reduced by about 4.3%. However, the two spinning methods do not have significant difference in thick knots, the details, and cotton knots.Therefore, the weft skew phenomenon of knitted fabric made of compact Siro false twist spinning is improved obviously.

      Influence of different drawing methods on appearance and yarn quality of cloud yarn
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  43-48. 
      Abstract ( 246 )   PDF (2188KB) ( 186 )   Save
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      In order to improve the appearance and increase the yarn quality of cloud yarn, the influences of three different drawing methods on the appearance and yarn quality of cloud yarn were discussed. Different cloud yarns of 29.2 tex / 14.6 tex/9.7 tex/7.3 tex/5.8 tex were spun on TH558 super high draft ring spinning machine, which was equipped with four-line draft system and four roller by changing the feeding way of decorative yarn, namely feeding from the back roller, medium-back roller and medium-front roller of spinning frame respectively under the condition of same other process parameters. Using VHX-5000 digital microscopic system to observe and analyze the appearance of cloud yarn, and gave a testing and comparative analysis for its tensile property, evenness and hairiness. The results show that different drawing methods will produce different yarn appearance, and compared with the other two ways, the yarn spun by decorative yarn feeding from the medium-back roller has a better yarn quality, namely more useful hairiness(within 3mm) and less harmful hairiness(beyond 3mm), higher strength and yarn quality index. Also, its structure is relatively compact and the three-dimension effect is stronger.

      Development and performance of Carex meyeriana/cotton/vinylon composite yarn
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  49-53.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170201806
      Abstract ( 341 )   PDF (1884KB) ( 281 )   Save
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      In view of more hairiness and poor yarn evenness of Carex meyeriana/cotton/vinylon composite yarn, a new yarn spinning method (modified sirofil apinning) was designed in which yarn carrier was added to introduce esternal fascinated yarns. The influence of twist factor and spacing on the yarn performance was discussed using strength, estension at break, hairiness index and yarn evenness as evaluation indexes. The performance of the composite yarn was evaluated by fuzzy comprehensive evaluation. The results show that the influence sequence of the twist factor on the yarn performance saquentially is 400, 380, 360 and 340; the composite yarn gas the best comprehensive performance when the single yarn spacing is 10 mm and the yarn twist factor is 400 in the modified sirofil spinning; and the hairiness is reduced by 73.49% and the unevenness is reduced by 29.05%, compared with core spun yarn spun by conventional sirofil spinning.

      Influence of fabric hygroscopicity on dynamic friction between fabric and skin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  54-59.  doi:10.13475/20170202406
      Abstract ( 901 )   PDF (1540KB) ( 277 )   Save
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      In order to investigate the relationship between fabric hygroscopicity and the dynamic friction between fabric and skin, 18 kinds of woven fabrics and 9 kinds of knitted fabrics were chosed to carry out the friction experiment with the same female volunteers’ inner forearm skin. The dynamic friction between fabric and skin were tested by fabric-skin friction tester under wet condition. According to the fabric sample under different wet conditions, the samples were completely infiltrated and then hung naturally in order to drying. The moisture content was used to quantitatively represent the wetting degree of the fabric. It was found that the dynamic friction change trends between the same raw material fabrics and skin were similar, and vice versa. The dynamic friction change trends between different kinds of fabric and skin generally increased and then decreased along with the rising of the fabric moisture content from 10% to 60%. It’s a positive correlation between fiber moisture regain and the fabric moisture content at the peak dynamic friction between fabric and skin under wet condition.

      Determination about geometry of stab-resistant resin flakes on surface of fabric
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  60-64.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170301205
      Abstract ( 433 )   PDF (1518KB) ( 266 )   Save
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      In order to select the best geometry of the resin flakes to improve stab resistance, four kinds of resin films (square, equilateral triangles, hexagons and circles) with the same area are drawn out by the CAD, and then void width and void area are theoretically calculated and analyzed.The narrower the void width and the smaller the void area, the harder the tool is to pass through and this shape of resin flakes has a better stab-resistant ability. The results show that for square, equilateral triangles, hexagons and circles of closely tangency permutation, the square, equilateral triangles, and circles make straight lines between the flakes, and the cutting tool is easy to pass through the linear procession to harm human body. For polygon and circular resin flakes, when the void fraction is constant and the resin flake area is the same, the width of the gap between the regular hexagonal resin flakes is narrowest and the void area between every two hexagonal resin flakes is smallest. In summary, hexagonal resin flake is conducive to improve the stab resistance of materials.

      Preparation and performance of melamine fiber felt
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  65-68.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161200704
      Abstract ( 759 )   PDF (1381KB) ( 274 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problem of less research on the application of melamine fiber, according to the performance characteristics of melamine fiber, the product of melamine fiber has been designed and developed after understanding its related properties.The wet way into the network is chosen,and the design of melamine fiber felt and its sample preparation are carried out. Then, three kinds of fiber felt with different quantify is designed.In the course of the experiment,polyethylene oxide, styrene-butadiene latex and cationic polyacrylamide are selected as dispersant, binder and retention aid.From the experimental results we can see that the dispersion of melamine fiber in water and the forming uniformity of fiber felt are good.And the experimental process is also easy.By comparison, it can be found that the larger the amount of fiber felt, the better the forming effect.The air permeability, flame resistance and strength of the products are also tested.Melamine fiber felt has good air permeability,and its flame resistance is close to aramid fiber and polyimide, but its strength is low.

      Origin and occurring independence of braiding
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  69-76.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161103508
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      As one of forming ways to make textiles, the  braid is used as daily supply. For tracing its origin and appearing independence, by the real object of braiding, ancient writing and other impressions or traces of braiding on determined implements (such as stone implement, bone implement, pottery, etc.), we have obtained the time sequence of the appearance of braids and braiding trails, so that braiding can be dated back to Mid Paleolithic. Thus, the origin of braids should be of primitive tools, and further, the matters formed by means of braiding, knotting, or twisting, all belong to the soft tools which are the tools with the "jointing " function in all. So, referring to the naming of stone implement or pottery, they can be named in braiding-, knotting- and twisting-formed tool, respectively. They are soft tools, while different from “dividing” functional stone implement, namely textile tool. Because of the difference of twisting formed tool (like rope), braiding tool(like railing), knotting tool(like net) in using function and forming way, they are all independent. Based on their degree of difficulty in making, especially their new tools, and the property that braiding can make a rope, thereby proving the appearance of new braiding tool is slightly earlier than rope.

      Preparation and film properties of electroneutral double-etherified corn starch
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  77-82.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170402606
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      In order to promote the application effect of starch in warp sizing, a series of electroneutrally and doubly etherified corn starch (EDES) with different modification levels were prepared by the variations of the feed ratio of the etherifying agents (N-(3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl) trimethylammonium chloride (CHPTAC) and 3-chloro-2-hydroxy-1-propanesulfonic acid sodium salt (CHPS-Na)) to acid-hydrolyzed corn starch (AHS). The structure of EDES was characterized by Fourier transform infrared analysis. The influence of the double etherification on film properties was investigated in terms of breaking elongation, tensile strength, and degree of crystallinity of the films, as well as degree of swelling of starch. The results show that the double etherification can reduce the degree of crystallinity of the films, and enhance the degree of swelling. The breaking elongation increases from 2.04% of the film before modification to 3.32% of that after modification, and tensile strength decreases from 28.7MPa to 24.9MPa.

      Investigation on bio-recalcitrance in biodegumming of Apocynum
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  83-87.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161202705
      Abstract ( 374 )   PDF (1600KB) ( 222 )   Save
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      In order to solves the problems biodegumming on low efficiency and instable quality, using Apocynum as the subject, Biorecalcitrance of Apocynum bast fibers was investigated from the aspects of composition and structure. The results show that the gum ration of gum substance in Apocynum bast is 45%~55%,  which the  higher than that to ramie, hemp, flax, jute, et al. The colloid laver is thicker and the fiber bundles are arranged in an orderly manner in Apocynum bast. The outer and inner layer in textura epidermoidea of Apocynum bast, which are in direct contact with liquid containing enzymes, are cuticle and lignin, respectively. These compact structures result in high hydrophobicity and low accessibiliyt. Apocynum bast has certain antibacterial activities against E.coli  and S. aureus of 22% and 14%. So, a multi-level recalcitrance structure of Apocynum bast to biodegumming puocess is constituted by high gum substance proportion, special ultrastructure and the existence of antibacterial component.

      Dyeing properties of kapok fiber treated by low temperature plasma
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  88-94.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170102907
      Abstract ( 409 )   PDF (2024KB) ( 296 )   Save
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      Low temperature plasma as a pretreatment technology was adopted to improve the kapok fiber dyeing behavior. The micromorphology and structure were investigated by SEM and FT-IR. Effect of status on mechanical properties and dyeing properties of kapok fiber was investigated emphatically with four different processes including strong alkaline treatment, semi alkaline treatment, low temperature plasma treatment and semi alkaline treatment combined with low temperature plasma treatment. The research result shows that the four pretreatment processes can rapidly improve the water absorbing capacity and dyeing performance. Low temperature plasma treatment processes on the surface of fiber. Semi alkaline treatment combined with low temperature plasma treatment can effectively reduce the mechanical damage caused by alkaline treatment and improve the dyeing ability of the reactive dyestuff. Taking Reactive Orange X-EN as an example, its rate of dye-uptake and fixation could reach 86.63 % and 70.32 %, respectively, after the treatment of semi alkaline treatment combined with low temperature plasma.

      Application of TiO2-SnO2 composite sol for wool flame retardant finishing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  95-100.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160704206
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      In order to meet the ecological requirement of flame retardant finishing for wool textiles, TiO2-SnO2 composite sol was used as flame retardant. The optimum formula of the sol was obtained by orthogonal experiment. The properties of the wool fiber before and after the finish, e.g. flame retardance properties, elemental composition, thermal degradation behavior and surface appearance were studied by limited oxygen index (LOI), infra-red spectrum (FT-IR), thermal gravimetric analysis (TG), and scanning electron microscope (SEM). The results showed that the wool showed the best flame retardance performance at the molar ratio of (C2H5OH:(H2O):(SnO2):(TiO2):(HNO3):(CH3COOH) is 3:1:0.2:0.1:0.1:0.1. A nonflammable oxide film was formed on the surface of wool upon the finish of TiO2-SnO2 composite sol which prevent thermal transmission and oxygen diffusion and the flammability of the wool was changed accordingly. Organic silicon softener was added into the TiO2-SnO2 composite sol system to improve the fabric hand feeling and the laundering durability.

      Influence of flame retardant finishing with silicon-phosphorus hybridization on the structure and thermal stability of wool fiber
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  101-105.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170200805
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      In order to improve the flame retardant finishing effect of wool fiber, a silicon-phosphorus hybrid DDPSi-FR, synthesized by research team, was applied. By means of scanning electron microscopy (SEM), X ray diffraction (XRD), FT-infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) and thermal gravimetric analysis (TG/DSC), the surface morphology, element content, fiber crystallinity, infrared absorption and thermal stability of finished wool were determined. The results showed that, compared with the untreated wool, not only the elements of phosphorus and silicon emerged in DDPSi-FR finishing wool, but also the percentage of oxygen increased by 26.5%; The mass loss rate of endothermic degradation decreased by 5.3%, the exothermic temperature of char yield increased about 30℃, and the residual amount of pyrolytic char increased by more than 400% at 800℃; For DDPSi-FR finishing wool fiber, the damage char length of vertical burning reduced by 55.9%, the limiting oxygen index was increased by 10.4%, and the standard washing withstood 15 times, achieving the B1 level of decorative and protective flame retardant fabrics.

      Low temperature bonding preparation of functionalized ramie fabrics for formaldehyde photocatalytic degradation 
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  106-111.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161201206
      Abstract ( 326 )   PDF (1950KB) ( 197 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problem that nano photocatalytec materials have low bonding strength on textiles under adhesive-free condition, low temperature bonding treatment was adoptted to uniformly load TiO2 nanoparticles (TiO2 NPs) on ramie fabrics. The properties of the treated ramie fabrics were evaluated by a scanning electron microscope, a Fourier transform infrared spectroscope, a porosimeter, a universal tensile test machine and a formaldehyde test system. The results show that TiO2 NPs can be evenly fixed on the ramie fabrics. The sample treated in the bath at - 10°C for 3 cycles (10 min/cycle, 400 N/cm) shows the highest formaldehyde elimination rate. After the treatment, hydroxyl groups on the fabric surface are increased while the air permeability, tensile stress and elongation of the fabrics are maintained. Within 120 min, about 87.14% formaldehyde can be eliminated by the treated fabrics.

      Adsorption of modified waste cotton to Cu+2 in aqueous solution
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  112-118.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170404807
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      In order to order to extend the recycling value of waste cotton, carboxyl modification of waste cotton was carried out, the carboxyl content and adsorption of the resulting products are accessible by increasing modification time is significantly improved. The adsorption of Cu2+ ions in aqueous solution was studied. The effects of adsorption time, the initial concentration of Cu2+ solution and the pH value of the adsorbed liquid on the adsorption performance were analyzed. The results show that the properties of modified waste cotton will be increased with the increase of adsorption time, the initial concentration of Cu2+solution and the pH value of adsorption solution. The growth rate is from high to lower and then levels out. The adsorption equilibrium time is 300 min, the initial concentration is 1400 mg?L-1, the maximum adsorption capacity of Cu2+ is 116.4 mg?g-1, and the optimum adsorption pH is 4-5. The adsorption mechanism of the modified cotton was studied by adsorption kinetics and adsorption isotherm model. The results show that the adsorption of Cu2+ on the modified waste cotton belongs to chemical adsorption. The adsorption kinetics model accords with the Pseudo– second-order kinetic model. The adsorption isotherm model agrees well with the Langmuir isotherm model and belongs to the monolayer adsorption.

      Young female body shape classification and prototype patterns based on wavelet coefficient
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  119-123.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170305405
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      In order to establish a method of subdividing young female' s torso shapes based on the morphology of longitudinal section curve,257 young college female students were selected. 3-D human body was acquired by scanner. Point cloud data of human body was simplified using reverse engineering software of Imageware. Point cloud data of longitudinal section profile curve was fitted by the cubic spline function, and subjected to wavelet denoising. Low frequency coefficient for for wavelet analysis was used to extract overall characteristic of signals. As for shape clustering the K-means cluster analysis was used, and the Davies-Bouldin was used to determine the optimal class number. Human body shapes could be divided into four types. The difference on all kinds of shapes on front/back center line, back, chest and hip were described. Finally, the prototype patterns of four types of body shape were built, and the relationships between patterns and body shapes were analysed, which provided the reference basis for the fitness design of young female' s patterns.

      Application of Naive Bayesian method in girl’s figure discrimination
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  124-128.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170104105
      Abstract ( 556 )   PDF (1376KB) ( 206 )   Save
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      In order to achieve accurate identification of girl’s figure, a large number of girl samples are collected to establish a database with detailed measurement index information. The data were analyzed and the girl’s figure are divided into three types using cluster analysis method. On the basis, the Naive Bayesian (NB) algorithm is applied to the study of girl’s figure discrimination, and the discriminant model is established. The discrimination of girl’s figure is realized. At the same time, the similar body of the test sample in the database is found through querying based on size variation, take advantage of main measurement size. And finally, the radar map was charted to fit the main measurement size of them. The study provides, the discriminant accuracy of girl’s figure discriminant model established by NB algorithm reached 94%. And the error of test sample and similar body’s main measurement size is small in the radar map. The test sample can be replaced by the similar body, and the method provides data support for the relevant application areas needing to acquire detailed measurement information about girls.

      Evaluation of warmth retention property of scarf
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  129-134.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170200306
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      In ordet to investigate the warmth retention peoperty of the scarf as well as the subfective feeling of the consumers, the evaluation of the warmth retention property tests were carried out by the thermal infrared image (FLIR) test and subjective evaluation in this study. Warmth retention ratio and three images obtained from FLIR both show that yak fine hair/polyester, cashmere and silk have the best thermal insulation properties; the subjective evaluation data of the warmth retention feeling can be ordered as: cashmere, silk, yak fine hair/polgester, bamboo fiber, cotton/viscose/rabbit hair, polyester/cotton blend, viscose polyester and viscose fiber (cashmere is the best). The results are in accordance with the conclusion drawn from the thermal infrared image test. And this consistency verification between the objective test results of FLIR and subjective evaluations is first times. It is suggested for manufacturers that it is better to use cashmere, silk, other natural fiber fabric or new fabric (i.e. cow leather fiber) to product winter scarves; and when the consumers pay more attention to the scarf style, the joint organization or the changeable organization could be considered to use as the fabric texture, which facilitate showing the scarf pattern design.

      influence of hollow spindler structure parameters on flow field of air jet vortex spinning
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  135-140.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170301806
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      In order to study the influence of the inclined hole structure on hollow spindle on the properties of vortex spinning yarn, the 3-D model of twisting chamber was established by using CAD software-Solidworks and the computational fluid dynamics model was built by FLUENT15 software; the experiment simulated the flow field, studied the flow characteristic and obtained the distribution of pressure field and velocity field. Simulation results show that air is ejected from the jet orifice and pushed in a spiral manner, static pressure distributions in twisting chamber take on the U shape along nozzle radius; the negative pressure near the entrance of the hollow spindle is propitious to fibers being sucked into hollow spindle; the inclined hole on the outer surface of the hollow spindle is beneficial to increase the output of fibers’ axial velocity and effectively slow down the trend of axial velocity reduction; the angle of inclined hole will affect the axial velocity of fibers when they enter the twisting chamber, as the angle of inclined hole increases, the axial velocity increases first and then decreases; and the inclined hole can improve fibers’ twisting effect and ameliorate yarn properties.

      Smooth and reverse design of conjugated cams of weft insertion
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  141-149.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160401509
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      In consideration of the errors of the measurement data created in the current cam production, and cams’ contour curve deformed damaged after abrasion, a novel  method of smooth and reverse design of conjugated cams in the weft insertion mechanism based on the limited measurement points was presented. In addition, a smooth and reverse software of the conjugate cam was developed using MatLab. Two-order continuous differentiable three spline function was used in this software to fit the data of conjugated cams. The curvature of the new curve was continuous and changes slowly. Geometric-relations were used to obtain the contour curve of the auxiliary cam. The motion laws of cam follower were obtained by UG intelligent point and motion simulation function. In order to improve the motion law of the follower, the modified trapezoid acceleration law was used in the conjugated cams of the weft insertion mechanism. A cam projile is obtained by using  inversion method and the envelope equation. After verification, the reverse cam can satisfy the requirements of weft insertion. It also provides a reference method for the design of the conjugated cams of the weft insertion mechanism.

      Iedntification of cashmere and wool based on convolutional neuron networks and deep learning theory
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  150-156.  doi:10.13475/20161202907
      Abstract ( 434 )   PDF (2355KB) ( 249 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problem of the difficult in identifying of cashmere and wool fiber images, a novel identification method based on convolutional neuron (CNN) and the deep learning theory was proposed. A sigmoid classier was used to carry out coarse classification on fiber image features extracted by the CNN. The reaults were verified according to the validation datasets, and the optimal weights of the network was recorded. Part-level features of each sample image are extracted by an improved part-level augment object-level network based on previously obtained parameters. In addition, the part-level and object-level features were fused, and a new network model was established based on the fused features. On this basis, Ordos’s standard cashmere and wool dataset was used to train the network for 50 times, and the best accuracy is 92.1%. The experiments results demonstrate that the method for classifying cashmere and wool images, based on the CNN features, can be applied to cashmere and wool or discriminate similar fibers identification successfully. However, a large number of sample sets and validations are required for commerical use.

      Computer-aided design of fall-plate jacquard fabrics with double colored effect
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  157-161.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170203705
      Abstract ( 300 )   PDF (1517KB) ( 208 )   Save
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      In order to realize the rapid design of the fall plate jacquard warp knitted fabric with double colored effect, a mathematical matrix design model of computer-aided designing of the double colored fall- plate jacquard warp knitted fabric was established, the mathematical model takes chain notation, threading and jacquard designing as is  three essential elements, which is used to design the double colored jacquard warp knitted fabric with CAD software. Taking the double colored jacquard curtains for an example, with the characteristics of the double colored jacquard fabric, studying its CAD auxiliary design method and process from two aspects of process design and jacquard graph design emphatically, it is of guiding significance to develop the product for enterprise.

      Analysis of evaluation method of thermal protective performance of firefighter protective clothing exposure to low level radiation
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  162-168.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170303108
      Abstract ( 666 )   PDF (2387KB) ( 352 )   Save
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      In order to improve the accuracy of the evaluation of thermal protective performance of firefighter protective clothing exposure to low level radiation, existing experimental evaluation methods and numerical modeling methods of heat transfer were analyzed. Based on the research of heat transfer mechanism in firefighter protective clothing, the research status of heat and moisture transfer models was reviewed. The factors which affected the thermal protective performance were summarized. The evaluation methods of the thermal protective performance of firefighter clothing in low level radiation were summarized, and the effect of experiment methods and experimental equipment on the prediction of thermal protective performance were analyzed from two aspects of differences and limitations of test methods. The application of numerical simulation in the heat and moisture transfer was summarized. Simulating the exposure conditions in low level radiation exactly should be proposed in the future study to improving the accuracy of the evaluation of thermal protective performance in firefight clothing.

      Developing status and tendency of knitting technology innovation
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2017, 38(12):  169-176.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161200408
      Abstract ( 885 )   PDF (2485KB) ( 374 )   Save
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      In order to accelerate the development and application of intelligent knitting technology, the characteristics of knitting industry in China were presented. The latest technologies, typical products and advanced applications were deeply discussed in five technology aspects, including high precision of knitting equipment, intelligent manufacture, knitted garment forming, 3-D knitting and knitted wearable intelligent apparel. Meanwhile, the future development prospect was put forward according to the downward trend of the present knitting industry. It was emphasized that the whole industry should grasp the opportunity to employ the concept of “Internet +” and deepen the integration of industrialization and informatization, and to promote the industrial upgrading, enhance the competitiveness and realize the country of knitting power as well.