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Table of Content

    15 January 2018, Volume 39 Issue 01
    • Preparation and properties of wet-spinning graphene fibers
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  1-5.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170603605
      Abstract ( 1102 )   PDF (1663KB) ( 318 )   Save
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      In order to better realize the application of graphene fibers in function textile area, the graphene oxides fiber were prepared by wet-spinning method using graphene oxides solution as spinning dope and calcium chloride solution with different content as coagulation bath. The graphene fibers were obtained by chemical reduction of the as-prepared graphene oxides fibers in the aqueous solution of hydroiodic acid. The oxidation degree and structure morphology of graphene oxides were characterized by X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS) and transmission electron microscopy (TEM), which indicated that the carbon and oxygen atom value of graphene oxides was 1:1, and graphene oxides showed thin and crumpled morphology. The influence of tensile strength was researched by CaCl2 coagulation bath with different mass fraction. The graphene fibers derived from 20% CaCl2 coagulation bath, exhibited high electrical conductivity of 180 S/ cm and good tensile strength of 892 MPa.

      Preparation of crosslinking and high performance polymers
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  6-10.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170402505
      Abstract ( 618 )   PDF (1498KB) ( 117 )   Save
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      The high performance polymer used as a template material would appear adhesion or film in the process of ablation. Poly(aryl ether ketone) containing 90% carboxyl and 10% allyl(PEEK-PCA-90)were prepared by nucleophilic polycondensation, then the PEEK-PCA-90 nanofibers containing chromium ion (PEEK-PCA-90/Cd2+) nanofibers were prepared by electrostatic spinning, the PEEK-PCA-90/Cd2+nanofibers were finally crosslinked under UV irradiation. Finally, the chrome oxide nanofibers were obtained by ablation. After crosslinking, the shape of nanofibers keep good in the process of calcination, there will be no collapse. The molten inorganic particles, which were prepared by the template without crosslinking, appeared severe deformation after calcination, and even became film. Fiber morphology test results showed that CdO nanofiberswere obtainedafter calcination of cross-linked polymer composite fibers, and the structure of CdO nanofibers remains intact, the diameter is uniform. Crosslinked carboxyl poly (aryl ether ketone) can keep good appearance characteristics, playing a very good role of template.

      Strain sensing characteristics of carbon nanoyarns embedded in three-dimensional braided composites
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  11-18.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170404908
      Abstract ( 359 )   PDF (2340KB) ( 131 )   Save
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      In order to realize in-situ structural health monitoring of 3-D braided composites, 3-D five-directional braided composite preforms embedded with carbon nanoyarns were prepared, a carbon nanoyarn strain sensing experimental system based on 3-D braided composite specimens were established, and the strain sensing  characteristics of carbon nanoyarns embedded in 3-D braided composites were analyzed. The results show that during the  process of monotonic stretching and cyclic loading and unloading, the resistance change rate of carbon nanoyarn sensors embedded in 3-D braided composites and the strain of specimens maintain a good linear correlation. After cyclic loading and unloading under heavy load, the residual resistance generated by the carbon nanoyarn sensors can be used to detect the damage or cumulative damage of specimens. The strain sensing equation for the net difference of resistance change and the net difference of mechanical strain established after introducing the coefficient of correlation of resistance to strain could achieve in-situ structural health monitoring of 3-D braided composites.

      Identification of fiber tensile fracture acoustic emission signal based on principal component analysis
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  19-24.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170503606
      Abstract ( 643 )   PDF (1693KB) ( 85 )   Save
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      For problems of acoustic emission signal of fiber tensile fracture such as nonstationarity and high overlap between signal characteristics, a model was presented for the feature extractionof acoustic emission signal and fiber type diagnosis. This model can be used to identify the type of fibers that are stretched. Firstly, different kinds of tensile fracture acoustic emission signals were preprocessed and decomposed by wavelet transform and ensemble empirical mode decomposition (EEMD). Then, the frequency characteristics were extracted by the principal component analysis (PCA). Finally, least squares support vector machine (LSSVM) was used to classify the characteristic frequency of the fiber stretched. Results show that the principal component analysis method can further select the eigenvector sets of the two kinds of fiber tensile fracture acoustic emission signals, and make the signal characteristics from high dimensional to low dimensional. At the same time, the correlation between the features is reduced, and the accuracy of recognition of fiber tensile fracture of AE signal is improved. The EEMD-PCA-LSSVM model has a total recognition rate of 96% for the acoustic emission signals of PMIA ( poly-m-phenylene isophthalamide) and high performance vinylon fiber.

      Comparative analysis of conventional and self twist jet vortex spinning
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  25-31.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161202607
      Abstract ( 412 )   PDF (2216KB) ( 70 )   Save
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      In the air-jet twisting process of the traditional jet vortex spinning, the higher ratio of dropping fiber causes oore thin places in the yarn. And because of the core fibers in the yarn are parallel and straighten, the yarn strength is lower. This paper proposed the self twist jet vortex spinning. It improves the ingot surface of hollow spindle by laser to increase the surface friction resistance between the hollow spindle of self twist jet vortex spinning and the tail end of fiber. The tail end of fiber rolls and  self twists, and then is wound into the yarn body. The self twist of the fiber will increase the friction and the cohesion between the fibers in the yarn, which improve the strength of the yarn. This paper analyzed conventional jet vortex spinning and self twist jet wortex spinning comparatively from the three aspects of the hollow spindle structure, the airflow distribution inside the nozzle, and the yarn performance based on fluid dynamics simulation and sample yarn spinning test. The research result verifies the feasibility and superiority of the self twist jet vortex spinning.

      Design research and practice on gradient weft-full-backed structure
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  32-38.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170401607
      Abstract ( 569 )   PDF (2278KB) ( 120 )   Save
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      In order to enrich the weave structure and color expression of weft-backed jacquard fabric, this paper presents two innovative design principles and methods of weft-backed structure which are derived from the analysis of traditional weft-backed jacquard fabric and combined with the technology of digital jacquard fabric. Combining shadow weaves and full-backed structure, these two principles and methods can design single face jacquard fabric with color gradient expression and double face jacquard fabric with color gradient expression. Full-backed points are set at first and then the corresponding basic databases are built when design single face weft-full-backed structure. It doesn’t need to overlap face pattern and back pattern when design double face weft-backed jacquard fabric. The structure design principle is that design series shadow weaves for primary weaves without full-backed points. And then filter weaves that can design full-backed structure. Finally, the design practices validated the practicable of two design principles and methods.

      Test method and characterization of 3-D draping for fabrics based on human body form
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  39-44.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170404506
      Abstract ( 391 )   PDF (1600KB) ( 109 )   Save
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      In order to overcome the inherent defects of traditional fabric drape test method, a new testing method under the self-weight condition was proposed based on the three-dimensional shape of the human body, and a new testing device which can directly reflect the  three dimensional drape shape of fabrics was developed. The device was used to measure the number of corrugations, the drape coefficient, the average bending index, the bending index and so on, and the simulation analysis of fabric drape form was characterized by CAD. Results show the drape coefficient is in positive correlation with drape for the new test method. The test number of corrugations is similar compared with the conventional test method, and the correlation is as high as 0.9. It is indicated that the new fabric three-dimensional drape test method can more realistically reflect the real drape and drape form, and the new built index system can better reflect the three-dimensional drape shape of fabrics.

      Automatic moisture transmission and perspiration test method of fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  45-50.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170300806
      Abstract ( 391 )   PDF (1900KB) ( 177 )   Save
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      A self-made fabric testing instruments using resistance theoty was developed to track the moisture transmission and perspiration across the fabrics against the root problem of low level of automation conditions and measuring precision. 11 pieces of Coolmax polyester knitted fabrics were tested by the self-made testing instrument, the classic capillary effect method and the weighing method. Results show that the self-made fabric testing instruments can test moisture transmission and perspiration of fabric with good repeatability. The sweat transmitting coefficients of multiple directions are more efficient assessment indicators than those of latitude and longitude. The fabric drying time tested by the self-made testing instruments is extremely precise, which can substitute the drying time indicators of classic weighing method. And significant differences exist among different directions for drop moisture transmission and perspiration across fabrics for big range ratio.

      Relationship between number of double-bed single-jacquard fabric mesh and let-off values
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  51-55.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170300705
      Abstract ( 756 )   PDF (1492KB) ( 152 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problem of difficulty in setting the let-off value when the technology of double-bed single-jacquard fabrics is changed, the experiments were completed with 166.67 dtex and 33.33dtex polyester on warp dnitted machine, and the relationship between the number of three different meshes and the let-off was tested when the density was tested when the density was 15 course/cm. The change trendency and differences of the let-off of three different mesh were got bycomparing and analyzing the experimental data through the methods of the let-off and has different degree of influence on the three different types of meshes. The number of the mesh increases by 2 coils, and the let-off reduce by 12-23 mm/rack.

      Prediction of pore sizes of polyester/polyamide 6 hollow segmented-pie microfiber nonwovens
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  56-61.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170502306
      Abstract ( 776 )   PDF (1958KB) ( 118 )   Save
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      In order to explore predictability of pore size of microfiber nonwovens, polyester(PET)/ polyamide 6 (PA6) hollow segmented-pie microfiber nonwovens were fibrillated via hydroentangling. A modified pore sizes model was proposed based on the account of fiber geometry and structure properties. The results show that the bicomponent fibers split into microfibers under the action of hydroentangling, and the fibers entangle each other in the horizontal direction. Moreover, the relationships between pore sizes, splitting rate and fiber diameters were theoretically analyzed by the modified pore sizes. In addition, the results also show that the main factor of affecting pore sizes inside nonwovens is splitting rate. A comparison was made between theoretical and experimental pore sizes of samples, and the results indicated that modified pore sizes model is good for predicting pore sizes inside PET/PA6 hollow segmented-pie microfiber nonwovens.

      Compression property of curved three-dimensional flat-knitted spacer fabric composites
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  62-65.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161104904
      Abstract ( 301 )   PDF (1383KB) ( 200 )   Save
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      The required samples were prepared to study the compression peoperty of curved three-dimensional(3-D)flat-dnitted spacer fabric composites and to provide cexperimental data for the study of subsequent low speed impact and residual strength. 3-D flat-dnitted spacer fabrics were knitted into flat and curvilinear shapes, then flat-dnitted 3-D spacer fabric composites curved indifferent angles were developed. Compression tests on the universal material testing machine were carried out in various curvilinear composites, and stress-strain curves thereof were compared. The results reveal that whether composites with flat-knitted spacer faburc or with curvilinear spacer fabrics, when other experimental conditions being equal, its coursewise compression peak is significantly higher than that of longitudunal direction, and compression peak also gradually increases with the increase of curvature.

      Preparation and properties of high strength and anti-aging geotextile
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  66-70.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170301405
      Abstract ( 330 )   PDF (1563KB) ( 206 )   Save
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      In order to improve durability and safety of geotextile inreal engineer application, anti-aging polypropylene/high strength and high modulus polyvinl alcohol short fiber mixture geotextile was prepared. The influence of high strength and high modulus polyvinl alcohol (PVA) short-fiber content on properties of geotextile was discussed. The inner microcosmic construction was investigated using scanning electron microscopy. The properties of weatherability, filtration characteristics and metalic ions resistance were investigated by relevant tests. The results shown that PVA fibers disperse in geotextile uniformly and cause fibers entanglement together; the  properties of mechanical and filtration characteristics are enhanced when the content of PVA fibers is equal to 60%, dry and wet breaking strenght are 29.7 and 34.8 kN/m, respectively, and the value of the opening size is 0.109 3 mm. At the same time, weatherability and metallic ions resistance of geotextile are enganced, the strength retention is 73.7% and 64.3% for photo-oxidation (90d) and thermal oxidation (18d) after immersing in copper nitrate solution.

      Biological enzyme synergistic catalytic system and its mechanism on wool fiber
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  71-78.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161202309
      Abstract ( 448 )   PDF (2676KB) ( 156 )   Save
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      In order to improve the imteraction effect of protease and wool, reduce the damage to wool and shorten the time of enzyme treatment, the catalytic effectiveness of protease in the presence of activator and the reduction rate between activator and wool were strdied to verify the feasibility of biological enzyme synergistic catalysis system composed of protease and activator. The synergistic effect of protease and activator in the enzyme catalytic system was proved to promote the hydrolysis rate of wool keratin significantly, by comparing the reduction rate, the change in protein content in liquid and scale image. The analysis results of the dyeing properties, amino acid composition changes. Allworden reaction and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy show that the mechanism of biological enzyme synergistic catalytic system is the synergistic effect of protease and activator. Activator acts on the disulfide bond and protease on the amide bond, resulting in the peeling of wool scales and effectively.

      Alkali deweighing of polyester fabrics using alkyl imidazolium Gemini ionic liquid
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  79-83.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170400405
      Abstract ( 412 )   PDF (1492KB) ( 119 )   Save
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      In order to exploit new alkali deweighting accelerant and its application process for polyester fabrics to improve the efficiency of alkali deweigthing, three alkyl imidazolium Gemni ionic liquids were applied as accelerants for alkali deweighting of polyester fabrics, compared with conventional cationic surfactants 1227. The influences of the amount of ionic liquid and sodium hydroxide, temperature and time deweighting ratio of polyester were analyzed. The strength and morphology of polyester fabrics were also tested. The results shows that the alkyl imidazolium Gemini ionic liquid can be used for alkali deweighing, and the effect of ionic liquid accelerator with the same structure on alkali deweighting follows the Traube rule. Gemini ionic liquid accelerator can reduce the consumption of sodium hvdroxide, and promote the alkali deweighting of polyester fabrics. Grooves appears on the surface of polyester, the fineness becomes small, and the specific surface area becomes larger alkali deweighting.

      Influence of pH value on characteristic colors of Chinese traditional costumes
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  84-88.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170305705
      Abstract ( 645 )   PDF (1547KB) ( 138 )   Save
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      In order to study influence of pH value during dyeing process of traditional costumes, water extraction of sappanwood was used for pre-mordant dyeing of cotton fabrics. The coloring pattern and the L*、a*、b*、c* value were obtained from the alumen and melanteritum mordant dyeing process with different pH values. The result shows that pH value has greater influence to the alumen mordant dyeing of cotton fabrics and gives different tones of colors. While the pH value has little influence to the melanteritum mordant dyeing of cotton fabrics and gives mainly warm gray color. Rose purple and sandalwood purple were reconstituted by adjusting pH value, which is a great example showing the importance of pH value to the ancient dyeing process. The adjustment of pH value during the dyeing process greatly facilitates enrichment of the colors of the Chinese traditional costumes and determines the final dyeing results.

      Anti-wrinkle finishing of organosilicone modified polyurethane/acrylate copolymer emulsion for cotton fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  89-93.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170302006
      Abstract ( 443 )   PDF (1700KB) ( 106 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problem of formaldehyde release from 2D resin used commonly as anti-wrinkle finishing agent in dyeing and finishing industry, as well as poor finishing effect and reduced fabric strength reduction after finished by such anti-wrinkle finishing agents as polycarboxylic acids, acetals and epoxy resin developed in recent years, polyurethane/acrylate copolymer emulsion was prepared using the homemade polyurethane monomer and acrylate monomer as raw materials and wrinkle winvl trimethxysilane as modifier by solution copolymerization.  The anti-wrinkle finishing effect of cotton fabric was investigated. The results show that anti-wrinkle finishing properties of the copolymer emulsion for cotton fabric achieved the optimal effect under the conditions of the mass concentration of polyurethane/acrylate copolymer emulsion reaching 5%, impregnating for 7 min,  pre-baking at 80 ℃ for 3 min and baking at 135 ℃ for 5 min, and the wrinkle recovery angles of warp/weft of the finished fabric increased by 60.6° and 39.1°, respectively, while the breaking strength increased by 43.3N and the elongation at breaking increased by 10.1%. At the same time, the finished fabric has good waterproof performance.

      Preparation and performance of transient cool feeling cotton fabric
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  94-97.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170201404
      Abstract ( 389 )   PDF (1301KB) ( 321 )   Save
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      In order to obtain a cold comfort knitted fabric, cotton fabric was treated with cellulase, followed by iced silicone oil finishing. The properties of tactitity cool cotton fabric were studied by Fourier transform infrared spectrometer (FTRI), thermogravimetric analysis (TG), KES fabric style instrument, capillary effect, air permeability, moisture penetrability, thermal resistance and water-vapour resistance test. The results show that shearing rigidity of the cool cotton fabric is 0.74 cN/ (cm?(°) ), the bending rigidity is 0.007 3 cN?cm and the drape coefficient is 30.7%. The capillary effect of the treated fabric is 12.3 cm(30 min). The air permeability is 352.3 L/(m2?s). The moisture penetrability is 4.012 g/(m2?d). The thermal and water-vapour resistance is 0.019 1 m2?°C/W and  4.687 Pa?m2/W, respectively. The surface softness and smoothness of cotton fabric increase after cellulase and iced silicone oil treatment. The coefficient of kinetic friction of the treated sample is 0.206. The average friction coefficient is 0.006 2. The surface roughness is 2.250. The FT-IR anslysis indicates that silicone oil group is introduced to the treated fabric surface. Teh thermal gravity analysis result shows that the temperature of initial thermal decomposition temperature of transient cool feeling cotton fabric is 247.7°C. The thermal stability of the treated fabric maintains good.

      Alkali resistance of disperse dyes in colored burnt-out printing on polyester fleece fabric
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  98-103.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170103406
      Abstract ( 415 )   PDF (1590KB) ( 158 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problem on poor alkali resistance of disperse dyes in colored burnt-out printing on polyester fleece fabric, the visible absorption characteristics of disperse dyes under high temperature alkaline conditions and the performance of colored burnt-out printing on polyester fleece fabric were studied. Disperse dyes with good alkali resistances were selected by analyzing the alkali resistance of different disperse dyes. Meanwhile disperse red SXF and disperse bright red SXF wereanalyzed; the influence of disperse dye structure on alksli resistance was discussed. The results show that disperse bright red SXF and other five disperse dyes have good alkali resistance, and the performance of colored burnt-out printing on polyester fleece fabric is good when the concentration of NaOH is 25%. The main structures of disperse red SXF and disperse bright red SXF have little influence on alkali resistance, while the substituent has significant influence. The cyano-containing dye has better alkali resistance than ester group-containing dyes.

      Biosynthesis of Eucommia ulmoides silver nanoparticles and application thereof in reductive catalytic degradation of Direct Orange 26
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  104-110.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170503407
      Abstract ( 427 )   PDF (1843KB) ( 101 )   Save
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      In order to develop green synthesis of silver nanoparticles (AgNPs) and their catalytic reductions for organic dyes, the Eucommia Eucommia extract was selected as reducing and capping agent for AgNPs green synthesis, and catalytic reduction on Direct Orange 26 were conducted. It is revealed that AgNPs solution synthesized using Eucommia Ulmoides extract shows an intense peak at 436 nm in the UV-Vis spectrum, and the average diameter of AgNPs in the solution is the solution is around 40 nm measuring by the laser particle size analyzer. Catalytic reductions of Direct Orange 26 with NaBH4 and AgNPs were conducted. Without the existence of AgNPs, nearly no reduction for the Direct Orange 26 is carried out within 30 min. While, up to 93.2% of Direct Orange 26 is degraded after 30 min with the addition of AgNPs. Furthermore, the catalytic performance of AgNPs synthesized at different reaction temperatures shows variations on particles size distributions and catalytic performances. AgNPs synthesized at relative low temperature showed higher catalytic activity. After reductive degradation, azo groups in the dye molecular are broken, which also destroyed the macromolecular structure of Direct Orange 26.

      Prediction of skin injury degree based on modified model of heat transfer in three-layered thermal protective clothing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  111-118.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170400709
      Abstract ( 4555 )   PDF (2208KB) ( 2190 )   Save
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      Time prediction of burn injury was performed anming at lasting fire exposure, and the performance of the parameters of thermal protective clothing was investigated.The modeling and simulation method was used to predict the longest safety work time for the burn different degree. Firstly, for three-layer fabric materials (composed of an outer shell, a moisture barrier and a thermal liner), body skin and the air gap between the clothing and the skin, an improved heat transfer model together with boudary/initial conditions was presented in high temperature environments. Secondly, the presented model was applied to calculate the temperature on the fixed contact surface changing with time, and the numerical results were compared with the existing model under the same condition to verify the credibility of the model. Finally, the developed model was also used to predict the critical time to first-/second-/third-degree burn injury and to analysize the influence of air gap and textile thickness on the performance of thermal protective clothing. It is found that during the flash fire condition, the firefighters only have a dizen seconds to escape even wearing protective clothing, and the thichness of the air gap and the fabric play a significent influence of the performance of the clothing.

      Smart database of women’s clothing silhouette dimensions based on human body segmentation
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  119-125.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170405907
      Abstract ( 612 )   PDF (2476KB) ( 200 )   Save
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      Estabishment method and process a smart database designed for women’s clothing silhouettes were proposed to accurately judge the existing women's fashion profile. The first step was to detect the human face from a static figure. Then, the human body was characterized by the maximum  posteriori probability model. Thirdly, the foreground models from the original figures were extracted with the graph cuts algorithm. The final step includes the definition of the key points of the key points of the generalized silhouettes, the measurement of the corresponding dimensions, and the process to archive the data. Intelligent measurement criterion focused on various further presented special cases. Besides, a meaningjul concept pf "drastic change point" was proposed, which was proved important to numerically handle a wider range of women's clothng. This proposed method can be used for effectively measuring 8 majordimensions of women's clothing silhouette from given static images, which could be further applied to estimate the future silhouette trends in the field of fashion design.

      Application effect of blue and white patterns of Ming Dynasty on cheongsam
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  126-132.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170401107
      Abstract ( 832 )   PDF (2282KB) ( 272 )   Save
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      In order to explore the collision effect of Chinese blue and white porcelain culture and cheongsam culture, and enrich the pattern elements of cheongsam design, eighteen types of typical blue and white patterns in Ming Dynasty were selected. By using different software such as Photoshop and CorelDraw, the same style cheongsam with those eighteen different patterns was designed. The demographic group of 20-35 years old female was selected as the object to study the effect of the designed cheongsam by Kansei engineering and factor analysis. Through the factor analysis of sensual words on those eighteen different types of cheongsam, three factors of cheongsam, three factors of vitality factor, temperament factor, and appearance character factor were obtained. The diagram with the relationship between eighteen types of cheongsam and three factors was constructed, which can explain the implicit roles of the different blue and white patterns in the cheongsam played on the visual effects. Different blue and white patterns can exhibit the same characteristics, which consists of many factors. The visual effects of the eighteen types of blue and white pattern is very good on cheongsam.

      Structural optimization design of high-speed computerized embroidery machine
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(01):  133-138.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170405107
      Abstract ( 632 )   PDF (2028KB) ( 212 )   Save
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      Large vibration noise, high thread-broken rate, even failure of mechanical drive system will arise when the speed of main spindle motor of chain stitch chenille embroidery machine made in China overpass 1000r/min. In order to overcome these problems, mechanical analysis of the existing embroidery machine was provided, and kinematics characteristics of the needle-bar-structure was analyzed. The reasons which cause the failure was analyzed. An optimal mechanical design was provided to solve these problems. The movement flexibility of needle-bar-structure was improved by optimizing the cam system. Force analysis of the  connecting rod of the needle-bar-structure were compared before and after optimization in ADAMS simulations. Simulation result shows that the maximum force reduces 50% after optimization. In the end, a vibration testing experiment was carried out. Result show that the vibration is far less than the allowable value after optimization, and the performance is improved obviously.

      On-line yarn cone defects detection system based on machine vision
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  139-145.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170405407
      Abstract ( 562 )   PDF (2214KB) ( 240 )   Save
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      In order to improve the degree of automation in the detection process of yarn cone, this paper proposed an on-line detection system for detecting yarn cone defects a on the top surface and sides. The system is composed of two industrial cameras,an LED strip light, a photoelectric sensor and a computer. Firstly, the top images under the overexposure mode and normal mode, the side images under the overexposure mode were time-sharing collected by the camera and light combinations. Secondly, for the top overexposure image, the center of the yarn cone was located in by applying adaptive segmentation method. Thirdly, for the top image of normal mode, the transformed image was carried out after polar coordinate transformation, and the curly core yarn defect, the multi-source yarn defect and the net yarn defect were respectively detected based on analyzing the projective features of vertical edge distribution, analyzing texture and intensity distribution consistency, and local texture direction histogram. Finally, for the side overexposed image, the boundary position was quickly located by projection method, and then the multi-layer defect was determined by analyzing fitting degree of the contours. The experiment results show that the proposed system can identify some kinds of yarn cone defects, including muilti-layer, net yarn, curly core yarn and muilti-source yarn, with high detecting accuracy.

      O2O marketing model of designer brands selecting shop
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  146-151.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170500206
      Abstract ( 936 )   PDF (1871KB) ( 228 )   Save
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      In order to promote the development of O2O (online to offline) business in the buying industry, combined with the applicatio status of apparel O2O channels, a Showroom (a large area in which goods for sale are displayed) platform mode was explored for the designer brands selecting shops. According to enterprise practice and desk data, the O2O operating environment of selecting shops was analyzed and the basic framework of a showroom platform mode was summed up. Through interviews and questionnaires, the intention of designer brands selecting shops was defined and the O2O marketing mode development apth was researched. With the project of enterprise D, an O2O service platform and a profit mode were put forward including order commission, retail profit, advertising revenue, consulting service charge, etc. Meanwhile, taking the joint operation between enterprise D and enterprise Z, the planning scheme of designer brand store was analyzed to pdrovide new ideas for the innovative Showroom service platform mode.

      Value operation strategy of fast fashion brand
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  152-156.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170303205
      Abstract ( 400 )   PDF (1801KB) ( 112 )   Save
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      Aiming at problems of the overall weak performance of the in-store sales, the rapid development of online sales and some problems found in the operation strategy of fast fashion brands in recent years, the operation strategies of the brands EMINU、LIEBO、YINMAN, etc. were compared, and the core motivation, the new product mechanism, sales channel, financial strategy and enterprise culture of the brand HSTYLE were analyzed to discuss the brand value centered operation strategy of HSTYLE. Finally, Through the analysis of the status quo of fast fashion brands, several domestic fast fashion brand operating strategies were refined. Focusing on the comprehensive value of the HSTYLE operating strategy, the rapid fashion online brand value operation strategy is summed up from the macro and imcro levels. It still needs enterprises to practice the effect of innovation strategy according to their own conditions so as to help enterprises out of operational difficulties and inject vitality into enterpeises.

      Sparse representation of woven fabric texture based on discrete cosine transform over-complete dictionary
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  157-163.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170404407
      Abstract ( 605 )   PDF (2189KB) ( 89 )   Save
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      In order to investigate the stationary and comparability of the algorithm for woven fabric texture representation based on dictionary learning, the sparse representation with over-complete discrete cosine transform (DCT) dictionary was used to characterize the woven fabric texture. Firstly, the influence of sparsity on woven fabric texture reconstruction was investigated. Ttwo indexes with root mean square error and peak signal to noise ratio were calculated to quantify the approximation of original image and reconstructed image. And then the final chosen sparsity value is 10, the image patch size is 8 pixel × 8 pixel, and the number of dictionary atom is 256. Experiments demonstrated that the proposed algorithm is quick, has simple calculation and can achieve rather good effect. In addition, the method not only can achieve stable results, but also its peak signal to noise ratio is better about 4dB than pincipal compinent analysis and non-sparse representation algorithm on average, which is only inferior to the K singular value decomposition learned dictionary.

      Optimization algorithm for energy saving in heat setting of polyester fabric
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  164-168.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170203105
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      Aiming at no theoretic model to guide the temperature setting of chamber and no reasonable temperature setting of the drying chamber of a setter energy loss of the stenter, in order to reduce energy consumption of fabric heat setting, an optimized method was proposed. The distribution of air temperature and pressure in chamber was simulated, and the uniformity of them in the fabric heating position were verified by the Fluent. By the analysis of the fabric thermodynamic characteristics, an estimation model is constructed to express the fabric temperature in time in the process of fabric heat setting, and key parameters are identified by experiments. With the target of minimum energy consumption, the particle swarm optimization was used to obtain the optimized temperature value of chamber. Heat setting experiments of the polyester fabric were carried out, with the results showing that this estimation model can match the fabric practical temperature in the heat setting period, and the optimized temperature value is effective for guiding the temperature setting of the drying chamber to save energy for the stenter.

      Research progress in influence of vortex spinning nozzle on flow field
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(01):  169-178.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170300910
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      The structural paaameters (the distance from the front roller nip point to the inlet of hollow spindle, guidance body structure, jet orifice structure, hollow spindle structure, and vortex chamber structure) of nozzle play a significant role in determining the spinning quality. The fundamental research progress in nozzle structure was reviewed. The advancement of nozzle structure techniques and the associate numerical simulation method on practical nozzle structure optimization is analyzed. In addition, the important influence of the main structural parameters on the spinning quality through the existing research was emphasized, and the causes of different optimal structural parameters on flow field was analyzed by studying the coupling of fiber and airflow and the spinning experiment. The shortcomings of relying on flow field analysis separately were expounded. It is suggested that the appropriate flow field prediction model should be selected and the analysis of considering fiber properties is more valuable. Finally, it is suggested several meaningful conclusions and recommendations for future direction, facilitating the fast development of this wonderful vortex spinning technology.