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Table of Content

    15 March 2018, Volume 39 Issue 03
    • preparation of 2-(dimethylamino) ethyl methacrylate grafted by bacterial cellulose aerogels
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  1-6.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170305207
      Abstract ( 504 )   PDF (1952KB) ( 108 )   Save
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      In order to prepare novel controllable graft-polymers from bacterial cellulose (BC) aerogels, BC grafted N,N,N',N,'N'' pentamethyldiethylenetriamine (BC-g-PDMAEMA) was synthesized by electron transfer for atom transfer radical polymerization (ARGET ATRP), using bacterial cellulose aerogels with bromide side-group (BC-Br) as the macroinitiator and N,N,N',N,'N'' -PMDETA/copper(II) bromide (CuBr2) as catalytic system, vitamin C as reducing agent and 2-(dimethylamino) ethyl methacrylate(DMAEMA) as the comonomer. Molecular weight distribution, Element content, chemical structure, thermal stability, crystalline structure and surface morphology of the modified BC aerogels were characterized by gel chromatography, energy dispersive spectrum, Fourier transform infrared spectrometry, X-ray diffraction, scanning electron microscopy and thermal gravity nanlysis. The results indicate that the BC-g-PDMAEMA polymers are successfully prepared by ARGET ATRP. The molecular weight distribution is 1.27 and the grafting rate of DMAEMA is 875.76%. After grafting, the diameter of the fiber is increased and the covering layer is formed on the fiber surface. The thermal stability of the BC-g-PDMAEMA polymers increased from 205℃ to 230℃.

      Preparation and characterization of boric acid cross-linking sodium alginate / krill protein composite fiber
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  7-13.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170603907
      Abstract ( 828 )   PDF (2186KB) ( 223 )   Save
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      In order to solve the swelling problem of sodium alginate / krill protein(SA /AKP) composite fiber in salt solution, salt resistant SA/AKP composite fiber was prepared by cross-linking reaction of boric acid with composite fiber. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, thermogravimetric analysis, differential scanning calorimeter and X-ray diffraction were used to study the chemical structure, thermal properties and crystallinity of composite fiber. The relationship between cross-linking degree and fiber morphology was investigated, and the correlation between fiber mechanical properties and cross-linking temperature was evaluated. The results show that the B—O bond is formed by the reaction between boric acid and sodium alginate. The swelling degree of the SA/AKP composite fiber decreases and the equilibrium of the fiber is balanced at 30 min and 80 ℃ after the cross-linking time is prolonged and the cross-linking temperature increases. The swelling degree of the cross-linking fiber can be reduced to 82.30% by 136.99%, and the salt resistance of the fiber is improved obviously. At the point, the breaking strength of the fiber is 2.18 cN/dtex. The breaking strength of the cross-linking fibers with the cross-linking temperature firstly increased and then decreases, and a longitudinal groove structure exists on the surface of the cross-linking fiber and the non-cross-linking fiber. After the cross-linking, the fiber was treated with salt solution, the surface still has the groove structure.

      Tensile strain sensing characteristics of carbon nanoyarns
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  14-18.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170606705
      Abstract ( 697 )   PDF (1522KB) ( 108 )   Save
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      In order to develop carbon nanoyarn sensors used in three-dimensional braided composites in-situ structural health monitoring, a carbon nanoyarn strain sensing experiment system was established. By the longitudinal tensile experiment, the correlation between the mechanical properties (stress and strain) and the electrical properties (initial resistance and strain sensitivity coefficient) of carbon nanoyarns was investigated, and Weibull statistical analysis on performance parameters was conducted. The strain sensing characteristics of carbon nanoyarns were systematically studied.The results show that the relative resistance variation and the strain of carbon nanoyarns under longitudinal tensile load have a good linear correlation. Besides, carbon nanoyarns provide a strain sensitivity coefficient equivalent to conventional strain monitoring, which is very suitable for monitoring composites whose failure strain limit is far less than the strain of carbon nanoyarns(carbon nanoyarns damage strain mean of 10% and the minimum value of 2.5%). Therefore, carbon nanoyarns become a good candidate material of sensors for composite structural health monitoring.

      Measurement of crystallinity and crystal orientation of polyester industrial yarns by 2-D X-ray diffraction
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  19-25.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170600807
      Abstract ( 466 )   PDF (2033KB) ( 80 )   Save
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      In order to establish the erlationship between the microstructure and mechanical pwoperties of polyester industrial yarns, it is very important to develop an effective test method. Two-dimensional X-ray diffraction method was used to study the crystallinity, crystal orientation and its relationship with the properties of polyester industrial yarns, including high tenacity type (HT), low shrinkage type (LS) and super low shrinkage type (SLS). The results show that the SLS with maximal crystallinity, maximal grain size and minimum ouientation is the smallest in dry heat shrinkage ratio and the best in dimension stability. Additionally, the largest breaking strength and the minimum elongation at break of the HT are ascribed to its minimum crystallinity, minimum grain size and maximal orientation. Accordingly, it cab be concluded that the crystallinity and grain size mainly influence the influence the dry heat shrinkage ratio of polyester industrial yarns, and the crystal orientaion mainly influence the breaking strength, elongation at break and elastic modulus of the fibers.

      Simulation of fluid flow in rotor composite spinning unit and analysis on yarn quality
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  26-30.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170402205
      Abstract ( 367 )   PDF (1589KB) ( 63 )   Save
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      In order to explore flow field characteristics in the rotor spinning unit and the influence of different rotor speeds on the quality of composite yarn, a 3-D model of the spinning unit and numerical simulation of the flow field were studied by Ansys software, including analysis of pressure and velocity distribution characteristics within the spinning channel. Rotor spun composite yarns were produced at different rotor speeds. The results show that under the same conditions, the minimum static pressure within the directing tube can be dropped to  -9.8 kPa, and the negative pressure in the rotor is around 9 kPa. A small number of high pressure zones exist in the outlet of the transfer channel and rotor slip plane. The speed of airstream accelerates from the transfer channel inlet to the outlet with the decrease of the pipe diameter, and reaches the largest value of 386 m/s at the outlet. The accelerated airstream impacts to the rotor slip plane from the transfer channel outlet, and is divided into two strands of the opposite direction airflows, and the airflows move as a circular motion along the outlet of the filament guide tube. Experimental results demonstrate that as the rotor speed increases, the airflow velocity increases, the static pressure decreases, the breaking strength and evenness of composite yarn increase, and the breaking elongation and hairiness of composite yarn decrease.

      Parameter optimizing of Stearns-Noechel model in color matching of cotton colored spun yarn
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  31-37.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170605807
      Abstract ( 456 )   PDF (1749KB) ( 114 )   Save
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      In order to achieve more accurate color matching of cotton colored spun yarns, based on Stearns-Noechel model, a common optical model used in the field of color matching of colored spun yarns with different colored monochrome cotton fibers including cyan, magenta, yellow, black and white cotton fibers were firstly utilized to blend into yarn samples according to different mixing ratios and different combinations. Second, the color reflectance values of the samples were measured by the spectrophotometer. Thirdly, the Stearns-Noechel model was introduced and its pending parameter was optimized by mathematical statistics analysis, three new modified models corresponding to different parameters were eventually constructed. The results show that the modified model is more accurate in predicting the formulation of samples when the color samples were divided into achromatic and chromatic series, and the color difference of the formulation between the predicted and the standard sample is the smallest among the three modified models. The average color difference is about 0.75 (CMC(2:1)), which satisfies the requirement of cotton color matching.

      Mechanism of swirl nozzle on yarns with different linear densites
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  38-44.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170400907
      Abstract ( 495 )   PDF (1773KB) ( 62 )   Save
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      In order to study the effect of swirl nozzle spinning method on yarns of different linear density, vortex nozzle internal airflow characteristics, air pressure and velocity distribution of yarns with different linear densites under the effect of vortex were simulated by means of computational fluid sojtware, and spinning experiment was designed to validate the simulation result. The results show airflows move clockwise toward the yarn channel inlet and outlet direction, respectively, after yarns enter into the yarn channel, and the yarn surface hairiness number are mainly decreased by air wrapped force and the relative revolving action because of the self-twisting of the yarn. The pressure near the pipe wall is higher than yarn channel axis pressure because of the airflow rotating feature, therefore pressure distribution on the surface of yarns of different linear densites yarns and wrapped force are different. Yarn linear density is smaller, the pressure distribution of yarn surface is more intensive, and velocity along x, y and z axis have relatively large fluctuations. The pressure and velocity distribution on the surface of 20 tex yarn are better than that of 10 tex, 30 tex and 40 tex yarns. The experimental results show that the hairiness reduction ratio of 20 tex yarn made from 40 % of hemp and 60% of cotton reaches 87.6% under 0.2 MPa pressure, which is consistent with the results of numerical simulation.

      Development and property evaluation of fake knitted denim fabric
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  45-49.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170605305
      Abstract ( 847 )   PDF (1605KB) ( 182 )   Save
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      In order to obtain a new denim fabric with advantages of both knitted denim fabric and woven denim fabric, the development of fake knitted denim fabric was discussed  from the aspects of yarn selection, weaving and finishing , and the relevant mechanical indexes of fake knitted denim fabric, knitted denim fabric and cotton woven denim fabric were compared. Furthermore, the Kawabata evaluation system was employed to synthetically analyse mechanical properties including tensile, shear, bending, compression and friction of these fabrics. The results show that the fake knitted denim fabric which uses pure cotton combed yarn and polyester filament spandex core spun yarn as warp and weft yarn, with composite right-hand twill weave, has warp tensile strength of 685 N and tear strength of 59 N after special finishing. The fake knitted denim fabricowercomes the disadvantages of both weaving denim fabric and knitted denim fabric. The fabric is stiff, smooth and soft, and also has elasticity and shape-retention in handle.

      Woven fabric structure design with unidirectional water transport property
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  50-55.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170402806
      Abstract ( 735 )   PDF (1604KB) ( 116 )   Save
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      In order to develop fabric with excellent unidirectional water transport property based on the fabric structure parameters, the water transport gradient model of woven fabric was established. According to the model, using different tightness of woven structure and different stitching form of weave and different amterials, nine types of  fabrics were developed and the water transport properties of these structures were compared by polynomial synthesis. The result shows that fabric with pores gradient structure from outer side to inner side has excellent water transport property, which relates to the stitching marks and the stitching form of weave. Meanwhile, double layer fabric with excellent water transportproperty is built, in which kapok/cotton blended yarn is as weft, Coolmax is as weft, weft yarn Coolmax stitichs two layers and pore gradient structure is formed by loose inner and tight outer sider. Also, the transport gradient model of woven fabric is proved to be correctness and effective.

      Forming process of shoulder and sleeves of whole garment
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  56-60.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170505006
      Abstract ( 595 )   PDF (1967KB) ( 90 )   Save
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      In order to shapes of shoulder and sleeves of whole garment and improve efficiency of knitting, the forming method of shoulder and sleeves of whole garment was researched rsing flly formed computerized ft knitting machine with DS-ONE APPEX 3 design system. According to the structure of shoulder and sleeves of whole garment made by four-bed computerized forming method, the knitting methods can be classified into 6 types. The efficiency and structure improvement of these 6 kinds of knitting methods were emphatically discussed. Results show that ratio weaving is applicable to setting in style with same shoulder and setting in style without shoulder drop on front. Twisted yarn ring is conductive to the rolling-over of front sholder to back bed in setting in style without shoulder drop on front. Returning knit is suitable for the detail knitting of epaulet and raglan. Uniformity narrowing is the main knitting method of parachute shaped sleeves. Extra knitting can be used for the balance of tubular knitting of shoulder and sleeves.

      Properties of pre-oxidized polyacrylonitrile / aramid fiber needled filters
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  61-66.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170603206
      Abstract ( 540 )   PDF (1757KB) ( 96 )   Save
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      In order to obtain a low cost and high efficiency filter, the composite filters were prepared from pre-oxidized (PAN) fiber mixed with aramid fiber of different weight percentages. The morphology, fiber entanglement, mechanical properties, air permeability, pore size distribution and filter efficiency were characterized. The results indicated that the length of straight fiber segment can be used to evaluate the degree of fiber entanglement. Adding aramid fiber can enhance fiber entanglement, filter compactness, breaking strength and breaking elongation of the filters, and decreased the pore size. For the particles with diameters above 1.0 μm and 2.5 μm, when the aramid fiber weight percentage is lower than 10%, the filter efficiency of composite filters has no obvious change. However, when the aramid fiber weight percentage is more than 10%, the filter efficiency of composite filters increased significantly with the increase of aramid fiber weight percentage.

      Drying properties of wool / acrylic blended fiber in far-infrared oven
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  67-72.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170600106
      Abstract ( 371 )   PDF (1554KB) ( 70 )   Save
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      In order to improve the drying efficiency of blended fibers in the automatic quantitative chemical analysis system, experiments and theoretical model analysis of drying process were required. The tri-level quadratic orthogonal rotation test of the tri-factor of wool/ acrylic blended fiber was designed, and the influences of three factors, such as dry base quality, drying distance and drying temperature, were discussed. Results indicate that three factors have significant influence on the drying rate, and a rise process, a quick drying and a deceleration process exist on the drying curve obviously. Then, single diffusion model, quadratic polynomial model and Page model were adopted to fit the fiber drying curve, and the mean value of R² of the Page model is 0.995 2, suggesting that it is the best. By the above experiment and model analysis, it is found that the maximum drying time is shorter than 2 h, significantly less than the conventional drying time of 4 h. In addition, the optimum experimental conditions provide the practical basis for improving the efficiency of blended fabrics.

      Biological degumming of oil-flax fibers based on radio frequency treatment
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  73-78.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170600706
      Abstract ( 554 )   PDF (1958KB) ( 63 )   Save
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      In order to shorten the degumming cycle of flax fiber, reduce its production cost and improve its spinnability, the degumming process of oil-flax fiber was optimized, and the radio frequency heat treatment was applied to the degumming process. Surface morphology, whiteness, linear density and tensile properties of oil-flax fibers were characterized using field emission scanning electron microscopy, whiteness tester and electronic single fiber strength tester. The results show that the optimum biological degumming process are as followed. The treatment temperature is 45 ℃, the pH value is 4.5, the bath ratio is 1:15, the treatment time is 25 h and the enzyme dosage is 3 mL. Radio frequency(RF) treatment significantly improves the dispensability and morphology of oil-flax fiber. In addition, the fineness and linear density of the oil-flax fiber are significantly reduced with prologation of the RF treatment time. The overlong processing time reduces the crystallinity and affects the tensile properties of the fiber, so the best RF treatment time is10~30 min.

      Sizing property of cold water soluble potato starch at low temperature
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  79-85.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160800907
      Abstract ( 673 )   PDF (2180KB) ( 85 )   Save
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      In order to study sizing of the granular cold water soluble potato starch (GCWS) at low temperature, GCWS was prepared by optimized alcohol-alkaline method. The sizing performance of GCWS including viscosity, adhesion capability, sizing ratio, enhancement ratio and abrasion resistance were tested when the yarns were sized at low temperature from 65℃ to 95℃. The size property of GCWS was compared with the industrially used potato oxidized starch to validate the feasibility of sizing of GCWS at low temperature. The experiment results indicated that the viscosity of GCWS potato starch from 65℃ to 95℃ is low, which meets the requirement of pulp with low viscosity. The adhesion of GCWS potato starch is close to that of potato oxidized starch from 85℃ to 95℃, while the adhesion of GCWS potato starch is slightly lower when sizing at 65℃ to 75℃. According to the sizing experiments with single yarn from 75 ℃ to 95 ℃, the enhancement ratio and abrasion resistance of GCWS potato starch are larger than 25.49% and 38.89%, which are close to the corresponding property of potato oxidized starch at 95 ℃, meeting sizing requirements at low temperature. The sizing property of GCWS, therefore, is close to that of potato oxidized starch, and GCWS is applicable for sizing at 75℃ which can reduce energy consumption due to high concentration and low viscosity.

      Preparation and properties of hydroxyl-terminated polybutadiene phase-change polyurethane microcapsule
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  86-91.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170704206
      Abstract ( 528 )   PDF (1737KB) ( 89 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problem that the spinnerets are often clogged during the spinning of temperature-adaptable fibers, phase-change microcapsules loaded with polyurethane as the shell and compound paraffin as the core were prepared. The microcapsules were synthesized by the interfacial polymerization of hydroxyl-terminated polybutadiene and hexamethylene diisocyanate. The microcapsules were experimentally examined in their size and distribution, microscopic morphology, molecular structure, shell cover ratio, thermal stability and phase-changing behaviors by laser particle sizer, scanning electron microscope (SEM), Fourier transform infrared tests, differential scanning calorimetry tests (DSC) and thermogravimetric tests. The results show that the microcapsules distribute within the range of 1 - 15 μm. SEM micrographs demonstrate that the deformable microcapsules have a regular spherical shape woth good dispersion and no adhesion. DSC results indicate that the cover ratio of the microcapsules is 46.45% and the phase change enthallpy is 121.13J/g. Additionally, the microcapsules exhibit good anti-permeability and excellent thermal stability under 30 heating and cooling cycles and can withstand heat up to 182°C. 

      Preparation of wool keratin and its modification to polyester fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  92-97.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161104106
      Abstract ( 634 )   PDF (1856KB) ( 85 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problems of poor moisture absorption and breathability of polyester fabric with poor antistatic properties, keratin-coated polyester fabric was obtained by coating different mass fraction of wool keratin solutions on chemically eroded polyester fabric. Subsequently, the structure and morphology of the fabric before and after finishing were characterized by using transform infrared spectrometry and scanning electron microscopy electrom microscopy. In addition, breathability, breathability, mechanical properties, antistatic properties, washable properties and drapability were studied. The results show that breathability rate of the chemically eroded polyester fabrics is increased by 57.7%. After keratin coating, the moisture regain ratio of the fabrics is increased by 3.3 times, and breaking strength and elongation of the fabrics are slightly reduced. Moreover, the drapability of the treated fabrics is deteriorated, and the static drape is better than the dynamic drape. The static voltage peak and static voltage decay time of treated fabrics are almost zero, and the antistatic property of the fabrics is obviously improved. As a garment cloth, the polyester fabric treated with a keratin solution of a mass fraction of 20% is relatively soft and comfortable, and the mass increase ratio after coating rraches 9.7%.

      Flame retardant finishing of polyester fabric with phenyl phosphate ester containing triazine structure
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  98-102.  doi:10.13475/20170607305
      Abstract ( 479 )   PDF (1689KB) ( 68 )   Save
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      In order to improve the flame retardancy and wettability of polyester fabric, the P-N type flame retarding agent BPAT with had phenyl phosphate structure containing 1,3,5-triazine was prepared using 2,4-diethanolamine-6-chloro-1,3,5-triazine and phenyl phosphorous oxydichloride. The flame retardant BPAT was used to treat polyester fabric by two-dip-two- pad finishing. The flame retardance of BPAT on the polyester fabric was investigated by infrared spectrum, scanning electron microscopy, thermal gravimetric analysis and burning properties of the treated and untreated polyester fabric. It is found that the char yield of polyester fabric is improved to over 3 times, and the afterflame time and smoldering time are dropped to 0.2 s and 6.2 s by the BPAT treating on fabric. The treated polyester fabric has good flame retardancy. The flame retardancy of the treated fabric slightly decreased after 10 times of water washing, and the treated fabric has flame retardant durability. The wettability of the treated fabric is increased by finishing with BPAT.

      Surface modification of polyimide fabric by carboxylation
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  103-107.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170204105
      Abstract ( 1060 )   PDF (1356KB) ( 111 )   Save
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      Polyimide fabric was carboxylated with alkali to improve the wearability. The properties of the alkali-treated polyimide fabric were studied by X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS). Fourier transform infrared spectrometer (FTRI), thermogravimetric analysis, thermal resistance and water-vapour resistance test and the affinity of cationic dyes. The results show that polyimide fiber can be modified effectively by alkali treatment. XPS analysis shows that a large quantity of oxygen elements are introduced to the fiber surface after alkali treatment. FTRI analysis indicated that carboxyl groups and amide acid are introduced onte the modified fiber surface. Thermal gravity analysis shows that the thermal stability of modified polyimide fabric maintained good. Thermal resistance and water-vapour resistance of polyimide fabric decreased slightly after alkali treatment. The limiting oxygen index of the treated fabric is 37%, exhibiting the excellent flame retardancy. The carboxylation modification of polyimide fabric improved the affinity of cationic dyes, resulting in improvement of equilibrium exhaustion. The adsorption isotherm of cationic dye on carboxylated polyimide fabric presents the Langmuir adsorption model.

      Preparation of stab-resistant mechanism of coated stab-resistant fabric
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  108-113.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170501007
      Abstract ( 676 )   PDF (2103KB) ( 187 )   Save
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      In order to reduce the weight of stab-resistant fabrics and improve its softness and flexibility, the hard particle coating was used to prepare the stab-resistant fabrics. SiC suspensions were prepared by using SiC hard particles. It is found SiC suspension is the most stable when the weight ratio of SiC powder particles, water and ethylene glycol is (1.5~2.5):1:1, and its relative sedimentation height of 2 h suspension reaches 0.93. The SiC suspensions were used to coat the ultrahigh molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) plain cloth. Quasi-static stabbing experiments were carried out on the coated fabrics. The influence of coating liquid ratio, original fabric density and the number of coating layers on fabric stab-resistance were carried out. It is found that the stab-resistance of the coated fabric decreased gradually with the increase of the mass ratio of the dispersing to the binder. The optimal weft and warp densities of the base cloth are both 100/(10 cm), and the coating number is 3. The influence of coating on fabric softness was anslyzed. At the same time, according to the fabric surface morphology, puncture appearance and puncture mechanical curve, it is found that the puncture strength of the coated fabric is higher than that of the original fabric, and it had a buffer effect, resulting in better stab-resistant property.

      Influence of softening treatment on properties of polyester/polyamide 6 hollow segmented-pie ultrafine fiber nonwovens
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  114-119.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170402706
      Abstract ( 537 )   PDF (1964KB) ( 152 )   Save
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      In order to obtain hollow segmented-pie ultrafine fiber nonwovens with excellent comprehensive properties, four different processing methods of softening treatment including physical washing, alkyl quaternary ammonium salt softener, organic silicon softener and chemical alkali softening were used to treat polyester/polyamide 6 nonwovens. Influences of different softening treatment processes on properties of the nonwovens were studied, and the cross-section morphologies were also observed and analyzed. The results show that hollow segmented-pie ultrafine fiber nonwovens treated with mechanical softening, alkyl quaternary ammonium salt softener softening, organic silicon softener softening are increased in crease recovery, bending resistance, draping property and softness. The breaking strength slightly decreases, and the tear strength is improved. The chemical alkali softening treatment effect is the best, but the fibers are damaged and mechanical properties are the poorest. Compared with the other three different treatment processes, the hollow segmented-pie ultrafine fiber nonwovens treated by organic silicone have the most excellent comprehensive performance.

      Objective evaluation of seaming smoothness for worsted wool garments
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  120-125.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170707506
      Abstract ( 444 )   PDF (1742KB) ( 74 )   Save
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      Seam smoothness for worsted wool fabric will affect the quality of garments. In order to investigate the objective evaluation method of seaming smoothness for worsted wool fabric, 6 wool woven fabrics with solid color were selected and gathered to produce 24 samples with different seam smoothness. The seamed samples were then subjective evaluation according to their smoothness with different methods. The images of the seamed samples were Gabor analyzed, and then the entropy values of different directions and different frequencies were extracted. After that, the filter was chosen by the principle of max entropy. At last, the total entropy value acquired by 6 best filters was obtained as the objective evaluation index with the information fusion technology. Results show that good quadratic polynomial relationship exists between the total entropy and experts pair comparing score, and the total entropy value can be used to estimate the score of pair comparison as well as the seam smoothness grade level of experts subjective evaluation. Gabor transform can be used to evaluate the seam smoothness of wool apparel, which has the advantage of objectiveness and accuracy.

      Visual saliency detection of clothing and accessory design
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  126-131.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20161001406
      Abstract ( 404 )   PDF (2298KB) ( 150 )   Save
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      In order to fastly and batch detect the visual interestingness of clothing and accessory images, the bottom-to-top visual saliency detection method was utilized to describe the visual saliency based on human visual attention model. Firstly, the bottom characteristics including brightness, color and texture of fashion image were extracted to construct multiple feature channels. Besides, combining normalized method was used to filter the feature image. Finally, the constructed three feature maps were fused and the visual focus area and significant bright map layer were converged. In the experiment, the visual saliency of color blocks map, different texture fabric images, clothing and accessory image were detected. The results show that the proposed algorithm effectively and objectively extracts the salient region and presents the significant degree.

      Test and study of pressure comfort threshold of female's garment
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  132-136.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170500305
      Abstract ( 380 )   PDF (1661KB) ( 298 )   Save
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      In order to investigate the pressure sensation and comfort range of female's body parts, the garment pressure comfort threshold was tested and calculated according to psychophysical limit-step method. In the experiment, 50 female’s college students were employed in sensory tests and pressure measurements of 9 body parts, and a novel stretchable compressive belt with double buckles was developed to continuously adjust belt and control the pressure with isometric and stable change.  Finally, the comfort thresholds at 9 separate body parts were investigated. The maximal comfort threshold is 2 753 Pa in lateral abdomen, middle shoulder and scapula tend to rank next in comfort threshold values of 1 671 Pa and 1 633 Pa, respectively, followed by the armpit, where waistline and scaprlar line cross, abdomen, and lateral empire line of 1 305, 1 284, 1 260, 1 156 Pa, respectively. The minimal values in comfort threshold tend to be anterior center of waistline and underbust of 955 Pa and 937 Pa, respectively.

      Hierarchical multi-hive bee colony algorithm for fashion color prediction
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  137-142.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170504006
      Abstract ( 825 )   PDF (1668KB) ( 212 )   Save
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      Aiming at the accuracy defect of current prediction method on fashion color, a hierarchical multi-hive artificial bee colony algorithm (HABC) was proposed based on complex adaptive system theory and biological coordinated evolutionary thought. HABC was applied in calculating the weight values of network and tested by fitting curves. The results show that it can improve the accuracy of neural network simulation of the target problem. Using the data of women international spring and summer clothing fashion color in the years from 2007 to 2016 released by PANTONE, a prediction model of fashionable color hue is established. The influence of nodes number in different hidden layers on hue prediction accuracy is analyzed. By comparing the prediction results with that issued by PANTONE official, it is shown that the proposed method improves the prediction accuracy compared with the other methods.

      Real-time detection system for electro-magnetic needle selector
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  143-147.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170403505
      Abstract ( 346 )   PDF (1544KB) ( 76 )   Save
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      In order to meet the requirements for electromagnetic needle selector performance testing and stability testing and fault data storage of electromagnetic selector in the long run, using the reconfigurable embedded measurement and control system and the associated software, a detection system using laser displacement sensor capable of realizing swinging displacement was designed. Through the collection and process of needle diplacement and needle drive signal, a measurement of needle swing ruleand calculation of needle selection response time were achieved. The actual test system can also analyze and recode abnormal selection time of needle selectors, and the stability testing for needle selectors is realized. The system provides an accurate measurement and analysis method for the optimal design and performance calibration of the selector, and provides the data support for the follow-up electromagnetic needle selector fault analysis.

      Data compression of embedded knitting system based on LZHUF algorithm 
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  148-153.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170504506
      Abstract ( 643 )   PDF (1513KB) ( 51 )   Save
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      In order to solve problems of big volume of the knitted fabric control data, high repeatability of pattern data and non-destructive transmission, a knitting control data compression algorithm was presented. The realization algorithm process was given. LZSS was used to encode the compressed fabric data simultaneously, and then  dynamic Huffman coding was carried out according to the application frequency of output characters. The algorithm could be transplanted to the embedded platform to achieve the decompression of fabric data. The experimental results show that the algorithm can compress the fabric data in the embedded knitting system, and the algorithm is more efficient. Compared with the conventional Lemple-Ziw-Welch encoding (LZW)   algorithm, the compression ratio is improved obviously by more than 5%. It is proved that the algorithm has high compression ratio and low complexity, and can reduce the fabric control data in the embedded knitting control system with limited storage space and memory space. At the same time, the algorithm can be used as a data compression algorithm for textile CAD.

      Application of algorithm with improved frequency-tuned salient region
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  154-160.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170402007
      Abstract ( 422 )   PDF (2193KB) ( 107 )   Save
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      In order to improve the efficiency and accuracy of fabric defect detection, a novel defect detection algorithm with improved frequency-tuned salient region (FT) to replace the Gabor wavelet method was proposed to improve the contrast ratio of fabric defection image and enbance the sensitivity of feature vectors. The influence factors of FT algorithm on the recognition precision of fabric defect including Gauss filter template, Lab color space, the salt and pepper noise in the image of the filter and the different ranges of HSV color space were analyzed. The FT algorithm was improved based on the analytic result. The fabric images were highlighted by the improved FT algorithm. Simultaneously, the gray-level co-occurrence matrix method was to extract the feature vector from the highlighted image. Finally, probabilistic neural network was employed to detect the defect on the fabric image. Through the detection of 2 kinds of fabrics with different textures, the experimental results show that the computational time of the improved FT algorithm is prolonged by about 8%. Meanwhile, the accuracy of defect detection increases by 18%~25%. Compared with the Gabormethod, the detection accuracy is substanially the same, but the computation time is shortened by about 70%.

      Computer aided design system model and algorithm of weft knitted jacquard fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  161-166.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170607606
      Abstract ( 445 )   PDF (1737KB) ( 84 )   Save
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      In order to design weft jacquard fabrics rapidly and accurately, according to the structure characteristics of weft jacquard fabrics, a two-dimensional matrix for describe jacquard pattern and knitting plan of these fabrics was established by mathematical modeling methods, including jacquard pattern notation and drawing knitting plan. The corresponding algorithm of jacquard pattern notation conversion to the drawing knitting plan information by structural features and formation principles of different kind of jacquard fabric was summed up, including single jersey jacquard fabric, stripe double jersey jacquard fabric, vertical double jersey jacquard fabric, sesame double jersey jacquard fabric and net jacquard fabric, and its detailed transformation algorithm was given. Experiments with sesame double jersey jacquard fabric were made. It is proved that the algorithm is accurate and rapid in design of weft jacquard fabric laying the foundation for the software development of jacquard fabric.

      Basic issues and development trends on general synthetic fibers with high functionalization
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  167-174.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170503308
      Abstract ( 425 )   PDF (2415KB) ( 292 )   Save
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      Aiming at problems of periodical excess capacity and constringent profit margin of large varieties of genera fibers, and in lrder to overcome shortcomings such as serious competition of homogeneous products in China, insufficient stability of newly functional fibers and weak innovation in product technology, innovative and technical supports for functionally synthetic fibers are urgent to be realized to add more value in products. Basic scientific problems of general functional fibers during functionalization were firstly expressed in three main aspects of controllable in three main aspects of controllable in situ synthesis of polymers, machine shaping and regulating of synthetic fibers and modification and functionalization on the surface of fibers. Then the development trends of functional fibers in international market from passive adaptation to active innovation design was introduced, providing a direction and theoretical support for comprehensive enhance in multifunctionality of general functional synthetic fibers in China, intelligent technological innovation level and international competition of synthetic fibers.

      Overview on mass production of electrospun nanofibers
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(03):  175-180.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170504406
      Abstract ( 589 )   PDF (1936KB) ( 122 )   Save
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      Aiming at the technical problems in mass production of electrospun nanofibers, latest progress, key methods and core technology for increasing the output of electrospinning in recent years both at home and abroad were systematically introduced including two major types of mass production technology, i.e. , multi-needle and needleless spinning. The principle, structure and characteristics of various mass production methods were presented. Comparing from the perspective of industrial applications and academic research, respectively, a deep analysis on the advantages and disadvantages of the devices involved to promote the industrialization of nanofibers by electrospinning and the deep research of multi-functional nanofibers was made. The results show that needleless electrospinning has the advantages of uniform electric field and high yield, which will be the main direction of the development for mass production of electrospinning nanofibers, but further study should be focused no the spinning mechanism, simulation and industrial applications.