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Table of Content

    15 April 2018, Volume 39 Issue 04
    • Preparation and characterization of sheath-core energy storage and thermo-regulated composite fibers of polyamide 6
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  1-8.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170606108
      Abstract ( 499 )   PDF (2068KB) ( 216 )   Save
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      In order to obtain change material with high thermal stability of the phase, the morphologically stable phase change materials (PCMg) were prepared by nano hybridization firstly with poly (ethylene glycol) as phase change material and porous nanomaterials as carrier. Then polyamide 6 (PA6) was used as cortex, and blending material of PCMg / PA6 was used as core layer. The sheath-core mass composite energy storage and thermo-regulated fibers of polyamide 6 were prepared by melt spinning according to sheath-core ratio 3:7. The structure and properties of the fibers were characterized by means of differential scanning calorimetry, thermogravimetric analyzer, K-type thermocouple thermometer, field emission scanning electron microscope, multifilament strength tester and so on. The results show that strength of the energy storage and thermo-regulated fibers of polyamide 6 is 2.52 cN/dtex, and the elongation at break of fibers is 30.5%. The fiber can achieve intelligent thermostat in the temperature range of -10.71 - 22.87℃ and 38.96 - 58.33℃. When the addtion amount of PCMg is 10%, the enthalpy reached up to about 9.02 J/g

      Preparation and antibacterial and dyeing properties of chitosan grafted antibacterial viscose fiber 
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  9-13.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170607905
      Abstract ( 512 )   PDF (1867KB) ( 144 )   Save
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      In order to synthesis a new type of antibacterical fiber, chitosan grafted antibacterical viscose factor fiber was prepared using viscose fiber as raw material, chitosan as polynuclear antibacterical frament and epichlorohydrin as cross linking agent. The process was optimized, and the structure, bacterial resistance and dyeing property of the fiber were characterized. The results show that the optimum process conditions are the mole ratio of chitosan to epichlorohydrin of  1:0.3, the mass ratio of fiber to chitosan of 1:0.8, the temperature of 100℃, the reaction time is 5 h. 2.0% of chitosan is grafted to surface of the fiber under the conditions, and the grafted thickness of chitosan is up to 0.495μm. The fiber has inhibition ratio of Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, klebsiella pneumonia and Candida albicans is up to 90%, 88%, 91% and 99%. respectively. Owing to the chitosan, the dyeing fastness and the color fastness of anionic dye are significantly improved, but the dyeing property of cationic dyes are reduced.

      Preparation and properties of electrospun polyacrylonitrile nanofiber coated window screen
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  14-18.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170503805
      Abstract ( 566 )   PDF (1907KB) ( 267 )   Save
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      In order to improve the indoor air puality, polypropylene (PAN) nanofibers were coated on conventional glass-fiber screen by electrospinning to prepare anti PM 2.5  window screen. The influence of spinning solution concentration and base material of the window screen on the microstructure of the electrospun nanofibers were studied, and the anti PM 2.5 effect, transparent and air permeability of the window screen were also investigated. The results show that when the concentration of PAN spinning solution is 10 %, the voltage is 20 kV and the time is 0.5 h, the well-distributed nanofibers with mean diameters of 170 nm can be formed. On the window screen surface, the PAN films are deposited on the warp and weft yarn with a thickness greater than those deposited on the gap of the window screen. This structure improved the connected force of the nanofiber film with the window screen and the permeability of the window screen. However, the transparency of the wondow screen decreases by 12% and air permeability decreases by 35% due to the deposition of PAN nanofibers. With the increasing of PM2.5 testing time, the adsorption effect is increased. Some organic functional groups are adsorbed on the screen surface. Then the indoor air quality became better. After 2 h testing, the rejection ratio of PM2.5 reaches 63%. With the increasing of PM2.5 adsorption, the transparency and air permeability of the window screendecrease correspondingly.

      Discrimination of goose down and duck down based on electronic-nose
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  19-23.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170305505
      Abstract ( 446 )   PDF (1501KB) ( 87 )   Save
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      In order to study a rapid identification methods of feather types, the electronic nose was used in distinguishing the goose down and duck down, thus a qualitative feather types prediction model was established. The average response values (96s-98s) of the feather samples were extracted as characteristic walues, the principal component and linear discriminant method were used for qualitative judgement. The identification power was discussed between different pattern recognition methods. A down types prediction model was established by partial least squares. The results proved that the differentiation on the goose down and duck down is 89.2 % by principal component analysis, and the cumulative variance contribution ratio reaches 99.9 %. For the linear discriminant method, the first principal differentiated component contribution ratio is 90.63 %. For the partial least squares method, the classification success ratio is 97.5 % for the training sets and 90 % for the testing sets.

      Connotation and evaluation of fiber carding properties
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  24-29.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170605106
      Abstract ( 607 )   PDF (1776KB) ( 119 )   Save
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      In order to realize the objective evaluation for carding properties of different fibers, its carding was theoretically discussed from the analysis of fiber states in its assenbly, and the relationship with the fiber properties was statistically explored from material characteristics. It is provided that carding performance is an organic combination of the four dimensions, namely, separation, cluster, straightening and card-to fail of fiber. The property data of 20 kinds of fibers were obtained by instrument tests. These main factors were extracted by principal component analysis, and the four-dimension theory was confirmed. The results indicate that the separation factor, card-to-fail factor and straightening factor were positively correlated with carding performance, while the cluster factor was negatively related to carding performance. The computational model of the carding index was established according to the main factor contrebution ratio to realize the level evaluation on carding performance of different fibers. The larger the carding index, the better the carding performance. Moreover, the clasification model of carding performance was proposed, which was in good agreement with carding practice. According to carding difficulty, fibers were divided into five kinds of carding performance from easy to difficult.

      Influence of roving feeding location of ring digital spinning on color proportion of melange yarn
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  30-35.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170402407
      Abstract ( 452 )   PDF (2112KB) ( 101 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problem that the feeding location of three colored roving in different combinations bave different color effects while spinning melange yarn using three-channel ring digital spinning technology, a new method was proposed to measure the color proportion of each component fiber on the surface of melange yarn. By using white roving as tracing object and black roving as background object, a digital microscope was used for continuously sampling images of melange. Then, these images were analyzed by MATLAB, and the area proportion of the tracer fiber in each image was figured out. The area proportion of each component color fiber fed by the corresponding location was acquired. Three rovings of two black and one white were adopted to spin pure polyester yarn of Z twist and melange yarn of S twist at the same proportion by changing the feeding location of white roving. The color proportion of different feeding locations were acquired by the image process. The results show that those yarn with Z twist are 36.84% and 32.21%, reapectively, and those with S twist are 32.09%, 31.00% and 36.91%, respectively.

      Spinning breakage detection based on optimized hough transform
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  36-41.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170602906
      Abstract ( 581 )   PDF (1752KB) ( 184 )   Save
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      In order to detect the broken yarn visually in the production of the spinning, according to the particularity of the yarn image in the direction, a method for realizing the yarn breakage detection was developed. Industrial cameras were used to capture the monement of the yarn, firstly wavelet denoising was used for smoothing image,  then the exact information of the yarn were extracted by the simplified. Hough transform and collinearity test,  and finally according to the actual yarn distance characteristics, it was determined whether the yarn break. The sym 4 wavelet bases ware chosen from many wavelet transforms, the results show that according denoising effect is optimal when the threshold is 10, and the edge detection operator prewwit is used to detect the vertical direction, optimize the Hough transform to reduce the detection angle to [-10 °, 10 °], enlarge the angular interval to 4 °, and shorten the operation time from 0.46s to 0.31s, which reduces the operation time and improves the operation speed. Experiment resolts show that the algorithm can accurately determine the yarn breakage information.

      Innovative weaving for integral pleated woven fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  42-46.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170401005
      Abstract ( 575 )   PDF (1553KB) ( 149 )   Save
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      In order to enhance three dimensional(3-D) effects of woven fabrics, this paper presented an integral pleated structure with 3-D characteristics. In terms of technical difficulties in warp tension variation in the weaving process, the paper analyzed shaping principles and the shaping process of integral pleated woven fabrics, and identified key techniques of weaving pleated structures. Additionally, the paper designed an innovative warp let-off mechanism with self-adaption function. A case study of the warp let-off device design and pleated woven fabric development indicates that in pleated area weaving, lower warp beam is stopped but the tension deviation of lower warp yarns is increased because of the reed friction, and its yarn tension is 45 cN, while the tensionof upper warp yarns is around 20 cN. This tension situation can meet tension requirements of warp yarns and realize effective and stable weaving of pleated fabrics; moreover, the length of each pleat can vary from 0 to 23 cm with significantly 3-D effect.

      Tensile properties under quasi-static of auxetic warp-knitted spacer fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  47-53.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170602807
      Abstract ( 672 )   PDF (1991KB) ( 207 )   Save
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      In order to discover the relationships between auxetic property and energy absorption of warp-knitted spacer fabrics under uniaxial tension, warp and weft tensile were exerted respectively to fabrics with four different knitting structures reconstructed from rotating hexagonal models, and stress-strain curves were obtained and processed so as to evaluate their auxetic properties and energy absorption. Results show that energy absorption of fabrics is determined by both structural deformation capacity and yarn loading capacity in which the latter plays a dominant role while the former has little influence. The effects of auxetic properties on energy absorption are included in the structural deformation capacity. Higher energy absorption comes with better auxetic performance under uniaxial tension with the same yarn loading capacity.

      Variable diameter braiding with constant cover factor
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  54-62.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170502909
      Abstract ( 466 )   PDF (2119KB) ( 250 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problem on constant cover factor of the braided protective layer of mandrels with a rotary curved surface such as torpedoes and projectile, this paper proposed a method for realizing braiding of constant cover factor by controlling the proportional relation between the spindle speed and the pulling speed. A mathematical model of the braiding cover factor related to the braiding angle, mandrel radius and cone angle was built based on the analysis of local braiding structure. By the inverse solution method, the local fabric pulling speed and the spindle rotation speed were acquired firstly, and then model were extended to all length range of the variable diameter fabric by integral principle. By using MatLab, the variation of braiding point height, braiding angle and pulling speed about the mandrel radius was calculated, and the density of the different part of the fabric were tested by the Solidworks model. The results show that the braiding cover factor of each part of the mandrel is equal, verifying the correctness of the newly built mathematical model.

      Preparation and moisture permeability of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene flexible stab-resistant composite with dendritic structure
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  63-68.  doi:10.13475/20170700306
      Abstract ( 693 )   PDF (1840KB) ( 184 )   Save
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      In order to explore the ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) stab-resistant composite with a dendritic structure, a dendritic stab-resistant composite with  UHMWPE filaments sandwiched between PET/PA6 hollow segmented-orange bicomponent superfine fiber layers were prepared by of combination needle punching and spunlacing. The stab resistance and moisture permeability of the samples were characterized. The results show that superfine fibers exist in the UHMWPE filament layer in the form of fiber clusters to form superfine fiber channels, the UHMWPE filament layer and the superfine fiber layers are tangled with each other to form the samples with a dendritic structure under the impact of needle punching and spunlacing. Needling density and needling depth have significant influence on the moisture permeability, and the moisture permeability of the samples is 889.20 g/(m2·24h) when the needling density is 274.37 punches/cm2 and the nedling dipth is 7.70 mm. Furthermore, the quadratic models have high confidence, and can be applied in the theoretical analysis of the moisture permeability of the UHMWPE flexible stab-resistant composites with a dendritic structure.

      Influence of degumming on solution of silk fiber and property of fibroin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  69-76.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170604608
      Abstract ( 960 )   PDF (2529KB) ( 306 )   Save
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      In order to investigate the influence of degumming to silk dissolution and fibroin properties, silk degummed by Na2CO3 and urea was dissolved in CaCl2-CH3CH2OH-H2O ternary system, respectively. The degumming rate, structure of degummed silk, dissolution process and rheological property, film-forming and microsphere properties of fibroin were tested by color spectroscopy, fourier transform infrared spectrometer, X-ray diffraction, gel electrogphoresis, scanning electron microscope.  Results show that some fibroin will be dissolved in Na2CO3 degumming, resulting in a higher degumming rate, while the whiteness of silk degummed by Na2CO3 is lower, compared with urea degumming. In addition, Na2CO3 degumming had a great influence on the crystallinity of silk, and the heavy chain molecular unit of silk fibroin was damaged seriously in Na2CO3 degumming, facilitating the penetration of Ca2+ ion to fibroin to cause the degummed silk fiber easier to be dissolved. However, the molecular weight of silk fibroin is lower, and the structural viscosity of fibroin liquid is smaller, the mechanical properties and transmittance of silk fibroin membrane are reduced by Na2CO3 degumming process, and the particle size of blank microspheres from Na2CO3 degumming is smaller and the particle size distribution is more concentrated, compared with urea degumming.

      Comparison of the dyeing effect of reactive dyes by salt-free continuous pad-steam dyeing and cold pad-batch dyeing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  77-81.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170306305
      Abstract ( 902 )   PDF (1645KB) ( 171 )   Save
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      In view of the problem of low production efficiency, uneven dyeing in cold pad-batch dyeing process, the cotton fabrics and Tencel/cotton fabrics were dyed with reactive dyes salt-free continuous pad-steam dyeing process. The stability of padding solutions were measured using AGS analyzer. The special alkali was used in pad-steam dyeing with the SNE reactive dyes, and the dyeing effect was compared with that of pad-batch dyeing. The results show that the stability and diffusion properties of dye solutions were affected by alkali composition and time. When the dyeing solution with mixed alkali is placed for 10 min, the stability index is 0.72, which are 2.6 and 2.1 times higher than that of dye liquors with special alkali and Selilao. The special alkali and Selilao can improve the diffusion performance of padding solutions. The Integ values of the dyed cotton fabrics (army blue, coffee) obtained from the salt-free continuous pad-steam dyeing process are 2.9 and 2.7 times higher than that of dyed fabrics using cold pad-batch dyeing process, respectively. The color fastness of dyed fabrics is more than 3 grades, which is in accordance with the production requirements. The salt-free continuous pad-steam dyeing process can also be used in reactive dyeing for Tencel/cotton union fabrics with the advanages of high productivity and darker color depth.

      Influence of sizing pretreatment agent in properties of warp knitting cotton yarn 
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  82-86.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170505206
      Abstract ( 417 )   PDF (1830KB) ( 87 )   Save
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      In order to improve the physical properties of cotton yarn to adapt to the high speed warp knitting production, the preteratment technology of cotton yarn were studied. Taking three kinds of cotton yarn with different fineness and indigo dyed cotton yarn as the experimental objects, the low temperature starch, low temperature PVA, lipuid-wax and white oil as the pretreatment agent, the influence of 4 kinds of pretreatment agents on sizing ratio, breaking performance and hairiness properties of 4 kinsa of cotton yarn was studied, and the yarn surface was observed by scanning electron microscope. The results show that the low temperature PVA and liquid wax can decrease the hairiness and improve the stuength of cotton yarn. The low temperature starch can improve the hairiness and the sprength, but reduce the elongation of yarn. White oil can cause the decreases of yarn strength and elongation. The change of the surface properties of indigo yarns due to indigo dyeing make them different from the other three kinds of cotton yarns after the pretreatment.

      Diffusion behavior of micro droplet on silk woven fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  87-92.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170306606
      Abstract ( 684 )   PDF (1757KB) ( 173 )   Save
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      In order to research diffusion process of ink droplets on silk woven fabric during jet printing, taking the micro reactive dye ink droplets as the research object, diffusion behavior of droplets with different droplet volume and on different silk woven fabrics was researched. The effect of pretreatment agent on the diffusion shape and area were analyzed. The results show that diffusion shape for micro reactive dye droplet on silk woven fabrics is cross shape on fabric with larger compactness and oval shape on fabric with too small compactness. The central length of diffusion is linear related to droplet volume. Diffusion periphery length holds steady after rapidly increased with increasing volume of ink droplet. Excessive amount urea would make diffusion area increase, and a small amount urea is able to narrow the area spread on silk fabric. Sodium alginate and cationic modifier reduced the degree of diffusion, and sodium alginate can change diffusion shape, which transforms cross shape into oval.

      Preparation and characterization of super hydrophobic aerogel coated ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fabric
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  93-99.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20160802507
      Abstract ( 746 )   PDF (2099KB) ( 319 )   Save
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      In order to improve the hydrophobic of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fabric, micro- and nano-scale structures were built by coating the fabric surface based on the lotrs effect. Silica aerogel was dispersed in polyvinylidene fluoride for preparing coating solution, and ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fabric was coated by the solutio. The chemical composition and microstructure of the fabric surface were deteced by a X-ray photoelectron spectrograph, a scanning electron microscope and an atomic force microscope. The self-cleaning properties of the fabric were mearsured by the ash collection test. The results show that when the mass fraction of  PVDF is 12% and that of the silica aerogel is 8%, the maximum contact angel of the coated fabric surface is 157.8°, and the rolling angel is 3°. The coated film surface has micro-scale projections and nano-scale particle projections. Stain on the coated fabric surface can be taken away by water droplets, so the fabric surface has excellent self-cleaning property.

      Size prediction of warp-knitted fully-fashioned indoor sport clothes
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  100-105.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170603406
      Abstract ( 722 )   PDF (1703KB) ( 125 )   Save
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      In order to solve problems such as lack of experience,  size error, repeated sample knitting, long research and development cycle during the development of new products for the warp-knitted fully-fashioned indoor sport clothes, based on analysis of the commonly used organizations of the warp-knitted fully-fashioned sport clothes, six different jacquard organizations were selected and nine different jacquard organizations were selected and nine different traction densities were set, organization samples were knitted, and the sizes of the finished products were measured. The influences of these two key factors including traction density and finished peoduct size on the horizontal density and the longitudinal density of the finished warp-knitted fully-fashioned indoor sport clothes were fiscussed. Based on the correlation analysis, the linear relationship between the product density and the traction density of six jacquard organizations was explored, and the size predicting calculation model of the warp-knitted full-fashioned indoor sport clothes were established. Taking the warp-knitted fully-fashioned indoor sport vest shorts as an example, the results are compared with the predicted data after weaving and finishing, the deviation of size prediction is within 1 cm, which verifies the feasibility of the size predicting calculation model.

      Waist hip somatotype and classification of young women in Northeast China
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  106-110.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170605405
      Abstract ( 772 )   PDF (1404KB) ( 200 )   Save
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      In order to analyze influencing factors of fitting property of the trouser structure, the waist hip somatotype characteristics and types of specific persons were studied.  Taking 18-25 years old female in Northeast China as the study object, 465 young women were measured by a VITUS three-dimensional human body scanner, and 21 waist hip characteristic variables were selected for analysis. With principal component factor analysis, 5 morphological factors affecting the shape of waist hip were obtained:the factor of girth, height, transverse radius ratio, girth difference and hip convex. According to the morphological factors, 5 categorical variables including buttock girth, distance waist to buttock, buttock width-buttock thickness, difference of buttock and waist, difference of waist back and buttock to vertical were selected for the classification by the SPSS two-steps clustering method. The waist hip shape of the young women in Northeast China are divided into 3 categories. The first type is straight, flat hip and short lean body, the second shape is highlight hip and plump, and the last one is curve, high and flat. The proportion of each type of experimental samples is 27.7%,33.7% and 38.6%, respectively.

      Fitting and verifying of males’s back graphics measured by non-contact scanner
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  111-115.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170605705
      Abstract ( 614 )   PDF (1391KB) ( 163 )   Save
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      In order to verify the accuracy of the graphics measured by a non-contact scanner, the badk-curves of adult males in the group of 170/88A were studied, then the function fitting and the accuracy verification was performed based on the manual measurement, the circumscribed circle along its curve was drawn. The back-curve were fitted by a polynomial function, and the R-squared of cubic polynomial function is 0.995 62. Considering the concision, the cubic polynomial function is determined to be the standard reference curve.  The correlation verification shows that the back-curve length, back length and chest depth are related, the fitting function is converted into a parameter function, and based on the functional relationship among them, zoomed was performed according to the proportional relationship, and further the back-curve length was calculated from the back length and chest depth of a sample in the same group, and compared with the length of the fitted curve. This experiment results show that the error of the back-curve function fitted is smaller than 1 cm, which is far smaller than the class difference for clothes, and the accuracy is enough to satisfy the requirement to the non-contact human body measurement for clothes.

      Body srface tperature canges and sbjective termal snsation asessment bfore and ater eercise
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  116-122.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170600407
      Abstract ( 887 )   PDF (1907KB) ( 219 )   Save
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      In order to further understand the temperature changes of different parts of the body and provide references for warm and cool keeping, 3 female volunteers participated in the experiment first in the environment woth the temperature of 15℃ and the relative humidity of 50%. The temperatures of clothing surface were measured by an infrared thermal imager when they kept stationary and exercised after 10, 20 and 30min, respectively. Moreover, the body temperature distribution were divided. Then 13 participants were involved in the same experiments and gave their subjective thermal sensation assessments. By the analysis, body surface temperature changes regulation and subjective thermal sensation were obtained. Results show that cooling and permeability can be strengthened in the parts of scapula, chest, right elbow and left arm when the body is in exercising, and on the warm keeping can be attached importance in the parts of abdomen, lateral thorax and spine when the body is in stationary state.

      Break yarn monitoring and data display for ring spinning frame based on database
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  123-129.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170606207
      Abstract ( 380 )   PDF (2052KB) ( 120 )   Save
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       In order to reduce the labor intensity of spinners in the spinning workshop and improve the production efficiency by reducing the unnecessary consumption of raw materials due to a long broken yarn time, a set of broken end detection and displayed system of ring spinning was designed based on the database. The system comprised the roving spinning broken end detection car, the broken end warning indicator module, the wireless communication base station, the database server and the tablet computer, The wireless communication base station was communicated with the roving spinning broken ends detecting car and the broken ends warning indicator module by means of ZigBee, and communicated with the database server by TCP/IP. The detected broken yarn information was displayed on the broken end warning indicator module and the tablet computer in real time to remind spinners and supervisors handling broken yarn timely. The system application software was development with C++ language in the Visual Studio 2008 development environment, the database used Microsoft SQL Server 2005, and the actual application shows that the system can detect broken yarn and display the breakage information stably.

      Evaluation and optimization of compressed air leakage in air-jet loom
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  130-136.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170306207
      Abstract ( 542 )   PDF (1742KB) ( 162 )   Save
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      In order to investigate compressed air jet loom so as to evaluate the cause of leakage and the effect of parameters, and the effect of parameters, compressed air leakage tests in the transport and use peocess were carried out, aiming at the air-jet loom weft insertion system of a weaving workshop, and it is found that the leakage mainly results from three sapects of pipe transport, connection accessories and use site equipment, and the leakage is caused by no timely replacement of aged and damaged parts in the use process. The data analysis shows that the leakage and energy consumptio increase with the increase of the pressure drop and the temperature change. Through the experiments, numerical and theoretical analyses, the influence mechanism of the comperssed air in the air jet loom is revealed. On this basis, the leakage was discussed and the repair was optimized. The test results show that it can effectively reduce or even eliminate the leakage through the regular management, maintenance and reair of the weft in sertion of air-jet loom.

      Fast extraction method of main structure of textile patterns
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  137-143.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170606607
      Abstract ( 585 )   PDF (2308KB) ( 133 )   Save
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      In order to remove the texture information from the textile pattern while preserving the main structure information, a penalty operator was proposed to smooth the main structure and texture of the textile pattern differently in the process of weighting the least square method. The main structure sample database and the texture sample library of the textile pattern were established to verify the validity of the penalty operator. In order to solve the problem of large time cost of large sparse matrices in the solving the process of the least squares method, a hierarchical preprocessing model was adopted to reduce the time consumption of sparse matrix solution to speed up the extraction of the main structure. Using the textile pattern sample library, it is verified that the hierarchical preprocessing can reduce the time of main structure extraction by about 50%.

      Algorithm for three-dimensional reconstruction of textile contour based on multi-directional imaging
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  144-150.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170602407
      Abstract ( 595 )   PDF (2572KB) ( 120 )   Save
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      In order to more fully characterize the surface information of the fabric to facilitate the subsequent fabric structure analysis, appearance evaluation, quality inspection and reverse engineering and other applications, a three-dimensional contour reconstruction method and system were developed for realizing the digital image acquisition, camera calibration and three-dimensional reconstruction. A multi-angle image acquisition platform for textileswas set, the influence of the imaging parameters optimization and the algorithm optimization on the three-dimensional reconatruction effect was investigated, and the experimental process and shooting environment was gradually optimized to improve the system accuracy of the three-dimensional reconstruction of textiles. The results show that based on existing hardware, the platform can complete high-precision reconstruction of the three-dimensional contour of low density textiles, and the reconstructed model can carry a large number of texture information, spatial position relation and color information on the surface of the fabric, and the feature point number is above 1 000. 

      Stitch design and deformation simulation of cardigan based on loop model
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  151-157.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170707807
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      Focusing on problems that the pattern design of cardigan is complicated and existing CAD software designs the pattern only by the weave plan and thus can not show the actual effect, the loop structure model of knit loop, tuck stitch, cross stitch and floating line baesd on weft knitting was established, and yarn connection modes after different types of loops were combined, and the logical relation between the organization collocation principle and yarn arrangement was put forward. Combined with spring-mass model, the deformation due to the pulling among fifferent loops of cardigan was investigated, the mass point stressing was analyzed, and the loop deformation was simulated. With the present loop model, the cardigan basic CAD design was realized by VC++. By the rendering of OpenGL, the two-dimensional  model has a three-dimensional simulation effect. Therefore, the pattern of cardigan can be designed directly by the coil diagram, and the resulting patterns are real.

      Structure of left-right section for human body in three-dimensional garment simulation
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  158-162.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170601805
      Abstract ( 365 )   PDF (1500KB) ( 76 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problems of serious distortion in the body deformation of 3-D garment simulation, an algorithm of left-right section structure of human body was provided. The body wasdivided into front and rear parts and deformed, respectively. First of all, the processed point cloud body was used to identify the feature of the body, and the points on the shoulder line and side seam were selected and designated as the feature points. The 3-D coordinates of these points were marked and obtained. Secondly, the space quadric equation was introduced and constructed as left-right section model by analysing coordinate data from these feature points. Thirdly, based on the surface reconstruction of reverse engineering, the 3-D coordinates of specified feature points were substituted into the quadric equation, the system of non-homogeneous linear equations was constituted, and the parameters of the system were solved and the quadric equation coefficients were obtained. In the end, the quadric surface equation constituted the left-right section was applied to the simulation of human body, and a left-right section containing the feature points was built. The algorithm accurately constructs the left and right section of the body which divides the body into two parts. The section a good effect when the section is applied to the body deformation of the garment simulation.

      Influence of user preference on social media marketing of women' s fashion brands
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  163-169.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170600907
      Abstract ( 685 )   PDF (2066KB) ( 201 )   Save
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      For the problem of how women' s fashion brands catch the attention of the target consumer groups and attract consumers to participate in, four domestic women's fashion brands were selected as sample brands, and marketing messages were sorted out based on the current situation of the social media marketing of domestic women' s fashion brands. On the basis of theoretical research and market research results, a framework of questionnaire research was set up and research hypotheses were put forward. A questionnaire survey was conducted with users' preference measured by users' direct behaviors in social media. The differences in clothes purchase and social media usage among people of different ages, occupations, education and income can be found by the data analysis, and the social media involvement has no positive influence on the appreciation of marketing content. It is verified by the structural equation model that interesting content, interest-related content, interactive content and personalized content have positive influences on consumers’ activities in social media such as concerning, agreeing, commenting and sharing.

      Application of shape memory material in functional and protective clothing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  170-174.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170606306
      Abstract ( 949 )   PDF (1819KB) ( 335 )   Save
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      In order to improve protective performance of protective clothing and balance the relationship between functional requirements and comfortable demands, shape memory material (SMM) are effectively applied in protective clothing to dynamically change air between fabric allyers, and thus achieve the dynamic adjustability of protective performance. The current domestic and foreign research status on the application of SMM in functional textiles and garments were reviewed and the current research limitations were summarized, especially in thermal and cold protective clothing. Based on the above analysis, the specific direction for the application of SMM in protective clothing in the future was highlighted in terms of air gap size, thermal hazards, protective clothing factors, quantity and distribution of SMM, physiological comfort, etc. Finally, the development trend in protective clothing incorporated with SMM was proposed from the perspective of human body-clothing-environment system.

      Bioactivities and applications of alginate fibers
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(04):  175-180.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170702106
      Abstract ( 1200 )   PDF (1710KB) ( 223 )   Save
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      In order to peomote the applicationof alginate fibers in functional textile materials and medical textile products, the ion-exchange peoperties of alginic acid and its unique gelling property when in contact with body fluid were analyzed, and the biocomaptibility, cell activities and bioactivities of alginate fibers during the contact with human cells and tissues were summarized, including hemostasis, microbial resistance, wound healing promotion, whiening. Results show that because of the polysaccharide structure and ion exchange peoperty, alginate fiber plays an important role in absorbency, moisture retention, microbial resistance, wound healing peomotion, hemostasis, detoxication, whitening and other bioactivities. These novel peoperties are highly applicable in textile materials such as functional woound dressings, functional face mask materials, hygiene peoducts for women and childern, and incontinence products for adults.