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Table of Content

    15 June 2018, Volume 39 Issue 06
    • Preparation of phase change Lyocell fiber and influence of microcapsule on solvent recovery
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  1-5.  doi:10.13457/j.fzxb.20170904005
      Abstract ( 1051 )   PDF (1409KB) ( 204 )   Save
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      In order to prepare the functional fibers of Lyocell, the possible effects of additives on Lyocell solvent recovery in the process of functionalization was investigated. The dispersion and thermal stability of microcapsules in N-nethylmorphdine-N-oxide (NMMO) were tested. A small amount of N-methylmorph dine (NMM) and morphdine (M) were added to NMMO, and the changes of ultraviolet and infrared spectra during this process to determine whether the addition of microcapsules caused more decomposition of NMMO were studied. The minimum detectable concentration of microcapsule dispersion was tested with ultraviolet spectrum, and it was found that even dilution to 2 ppm we could detect the presence of microcapsules in the ultraviolet spectrum. Infrared radiation spectra, ultraviolet spectra of microcapsule was studied on the NMMO, and results show that the microcapsule would not make NMMO decompose into NMM and M too much, and about the detection of coagulation bath also suggests that microcapsules in the coagulation bath content below the instrument detection limit, so microcasules will not affect the Lyocell solvent recovery. The damage rate of microcapsules in Lyocell fiber was calculated according to differential scanning calorimetry. The phase change Lyocell fiber bas good phase transition performance, and the mechanical peoperties meet the requirements.

      Preparation and microstructure control of nonwoven fabric reinforced poly(vinyl chloride) porous membrane
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  6-12.  doi:10.13457/j.fzxb.20170709907
      Abstract ( 544 )   PDF (2189KB) ( 242 )   Save
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      In order tosolve the problems of low flux and poor mechanical properties of poly(vinyl chloride) (PVC) membranes, this paper proposed a preparation method of PVC porous membrane. The PVC porous membranes were prepared with PVC as film forming polymer, polyethylene glycol, nano-silica and epoxy soybean oil as additives, γ-butyrolactone as solvent and nonwoven fabric as reinforcement by solution phase conversion method. By the morphological observation and the tesitng of pure water flux, rejection rate, pore size and their distribution, porosity and mechanical properties, the influence of the PVC solid content on the structure and properties of porous membranes were investigated. The results indicated that the cross section of the obtained PVC porous membranes have a homogeneous sponge pore structure, and the top surface is uniformly distributed with a large number of microporous structures, with the increase of PVC content in casting solutions, both of the pore size on membrane cross section and top surface, and pure water flux decreases, while the contact angle of the membrane surface increases and the hydrophilicity decreases. The maximum pure water flux of prepared PVC porous membrane can reach 1000L/(m2•h). The PVC porous membranes show good rejection performance for carbon ink, and the rejection rate reaches to 92.8%. All of the prepared PVC porous membranes’ tensile strength are higher than 20MPa, and increase with the PVC content.

      Influence of drawing ratio distribution on morphology of cellulose/silk fibroin blend fiber
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  13-18.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170802306
      Abstract ( 813 )   PDF (2309KB) ( 203 )   Save
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      In order to utilize cellulose and protein resources effectively, the cellulose/silk fibroin blend fiber was fabricated by dry-jet wet spinning method using ionic liquid as solvent. The influence of draw ratio distribution of jet stretch and plastic stretch on the molecular structure, phase morphology and property was strdied. The results show that cellulose is in continuous phase and silk fibroin is in dispersed phase for the cellulose based blend fiber. When the drawing ratio is 3, silk fibroin is fibril like along the fiber axis continuously. When the drawing ratio increases to 5, the dispersion of silk fibroin along the fiber axis shows sine wave and the phase morphology is lotrs rhizome node-like. The weight loss of silk fibroin decreases by virtue of plastification bath drawing. When the drawing ratio is 5 and the plastification bath drawing ratio is 1, the tensile strength of cellulose/silk fibroin reaches to 389.8 MPa, which is higher than that of commercial viscose fiber.

      Radial liner stretching jet spinning method using inertial centrifugal force
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  19-23.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170709705
      Abstract ( 648 )   PDF (1651KB) ( 187 )   Save
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      In order to reduce the fiber diameter and improve melt centrifugal spinning efficiency, this paper presented a centrifugal spinning by linear and radial friction-free stretching of jet. A simple mathematical model of this method was established. The key parameters of the test equipment was determined based on this model. For the melt centrifugal spinning of polypropylene material for test the equipment, the largest diameter of the collected fiber at 1 - 2 mm distant from the edge of the rotating disk was 6.5 - 10.5 μm. By the melt flux and the orifice diameter forming the initial jet, the calculated deviation of the instantaneous radial moving maximum speed of jet and rotating disk linear speed is not greater than 18%. It is considered that the theoretical model is effective. When the test equipment is upgraded to continuous production mode, the melt centrifugal spinning efficiency is 0.820 g/min under the cinditions of the average diameter of fiber is 0.8 μm and the rotation speed is 8 000 r/min.

      Spinning of low-ratio cashmere blends under slipping draft
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  24-28.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170504305
      Abstract ( 884 )   PDF (1504KB) ( 165 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problem on the bigger difference between cashmere length and wool length and hard determination of draft gruge, the cashmere/wool blend yarn and cashmere/wool/ silk blend yarn were spun, respectively, on the JWF-1516 cotton ring frame using the slipping draft or non-slipping draft, and the spun yarn linear density and yarn quality under the slipping draft or non-slipping draft were analyzed. The spinning results show that using the slipping draft or non-slipping draft,  wool/cashmere (84/16) blend yarn and wool/cashmere (65/35) blend yarn with the yarn linear density of 11.1 tex can be spun, and compared with that spun by the non-slipping draft, yarn spun by the slipping draft has significantly reduced yarn thick value and yarn thin value.Using the slipping draft, wool/cashmere (84/16) blend yarn (the single yarn evenness CV value is 19%) with the single yarn linear density of 10 tex and cashmere/wool/silk (80/10/10)blend yarn (the single yarn evenness CV value is 18.8%) with the single yarn linear density of 8.3 tex can be spun, respectively, but the blend yarns of the two linear densities can not be spun by the non-slipping draft.

      Testing and characterizing of filament breakage of multifilament yarn
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  29-35.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170707907
      Abstract ( 725 )   PDF (1894KB) ( 168 )   Save
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      In order to study the filament breakage performance and its testing and characterization method of multifilarment yarn when subjected to tensile action, the tensile properties of a polyamide 6 non-twisted multifilament yarn were tested, and typical tensile curves with filament breakage were obtained. With the typical tensile curves being analyzed, the index system of the filament breakage of multifilament was established based on the breaking frequency and the stress condition when the monofilament was broken. The tensile properties of three kinds of filament yarns were tested, the indexes of filament breakage were calculated and the evaluating method of filament breakage of multifilament was discussed. The results show that filament breakage will occur in some samples among the tensile tests of multifilament yarns, and filament breakage may occur more than once during test of a sample. Each filament breakage will create a jagged waveform on the tensile fracture curve. The filament breakage of multifilament yarns can be characterized by the filament breakage frequency indexes and the stress-related indexes when the filament breakages occur. In a certain number of tensile tests, the lower the stress at the time of the first filament breaking, the higher the frequency of filament breakage, indicating that the multifilament yarn is more likely to occurs filament breadage.

      Prediction of color blending effect of digital rotor yarn based on Kubelka-Munk double constant theory
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  36-41.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170704906
      Abstract ( 870 )   PDF (1564KB) ( 285 )   Save
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      In order to study the color blending effect of digital rotor spun yarn, color blended yarn were spun by red, yellow and blue rovings, and woven into fabrics, and the color characteristics of the fabrics were measured. On this basis the absorption coefficient and the scattering coefficient of the monochromatic fiber were calculated by the least squares method and the relative value method respectively, and two types of Kubelka-Munk double constant color mixing model were built according to the above mentioned methods. The fabrics color and blending ratio of colored fibers were predicted by those two models. The results show that the average color difference of the model established by the least squares method is 0.896 and the average ratio error is 2.84%. The average color difference of the model established by the relative value method is 1.35, and the average ratio error is 3.04%. Compared with the relative value method, the Kubelka-Munk double constant mixing model established by the least squares method can better predict the color blending effect and mixing ratio of digital rotor spun yarn.

      Measurement of fabric bending and draping performance using crossing method
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  42-46.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170805005
      Abstract ( 997 )   PDF (1380KB) ( 182 )   Save
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      To investigate a measurement that can test fabric bending and draping performance simultaneously, 20 common fabrics were chosen and tested with the method of bevel and circular table to obtain the bending length and draping factor. Then the self-designed crossing method was used, as a result, horizontal hanging distance, vertical hanging distance, the bending & draping coefficient were extracted. After research, the following conclusion was drawn: The crossing method can be used to test both fabric bending performance and fabric draping performance. The three parameters all have good correlation coefficients with bending length of bevel method, the coefficients from large to small are bending & draping coefficient, horizontal hanging distance, vertical hanging distance. Furthermore, there is good correlation between bending & draping coefficient with draping factor of the circular table method. The crossing method combines the measurement of fabric bending and fabric draping performance into one test, which can simplify the operations and save time.

      Effect of structural parameters of kapok fiber/cotton blended fabric on heat retention and air permeability
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  47-51.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170703205
      Abstract ( 378 )   PDF (1392KB) ( 263 )   Save
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      To make full use of the excellent performances of kapok fiber, and make the kapok fiber get better application in product design, 13 fabircs were prepared with different tissues, weft density and kapok fiber content with kapok fiber/cotton blended fiber as raw materials.The fabric thickness, heat retention and air permeability were tesed. The effect of fabric structure parameters on heat retention and air permeability was analyzed. The experimental results showed that with the same structure parameters but fewer the binding points, the fabrics are thicker and looser, and heat retention and air permeability are better. Heat retention decreases with the increase of volume density density, and air permeability decreases with the increase of weft density. With kapok fiber content increases, heat retention increases, but air permeability decreases.

      Preparation of elastic radiation resistant textile based on double filament core-spun yarn
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  52-57.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170803207
      Abstract ( 576 )   PDF (2102KB) ( 168 )   Save
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      In this paper, a kind of radiation resistant knitted fabric with higher elastic response rate was developed. Three kinds of cotton /stainless steel/spandex double filament core-spun yarns and three kinds of cotton /stainless steel core-spun yarns with different linear density were spun by using complete condensed Siro-spinning. In the spinning, the double filament core-spun yarns were spun by feeding the stainless steel and spandex filament into the front roller of spinning machine, and corresponding 1+1 rib loop weaves was knitted. Then, the covering effect and the qualities of six simple yarns, and the elastic recovery rate, electromagnetic shielding properties and fabric styles of six sample fabrics were tested and compared. The test results indicated that all the yarns have good covering effect and good yarn performance. Compared to stainless steel core-spun fabric, the double-core fabric have a better advantages in elastic recovery ratio and shielding electromagnetic waves to meet the requirements of general civil electromagnetic shielding fabric and to guarantee human comfort. The development of flexible electromagnetic shielding fabric not only focus on selection of a reasonable filament pre-draft multiple and other processes, but also take the usability, durability and production costs of the fabric into account.

      Parameter design and variation characteristics of carbon nanotube yarns in intelligent composites
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  58-63.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171008906
      Abstract ( 372 )   PDF (1631KB) ( 176 )   Save
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      In order to embed carbon nanotube yarn sensor into composite material. Intelligent 3-D braided composites using 3-D braided technology was constructed. According to the braiding structure of three-dimensional six-direction braided composites, the mathematic model of carriers movement of braiding machine was constructed. The method of calculating the number and length of embedded carbon nanotube yarns with intelligent composites proposed. The characteristics of resistance changing for carbon nanotube yarns under the loading were analyzed. Experiments show that the error of the length and actual length of the carbon nanotube yarn calculated by the Bezier-curve is less than 1%. When the tensile strain exceeds 2%, the strain of the embedded carbon nanotube yarns begin to appear nonlinear. The loading and unloading of the specimen has some influence on the resistance dhange of the carbon nanotube yarn. After the load is unloaded, the carbon nanotube yarn will produce the residual resistance.

      Braiding technologies of 2-D braided carbon fiber tubular fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  64-69.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170801006
      Abstract ( 683 )   PDF (1789KB) ( 410 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problem that the carbon fiber beraks and damages easily due to brittleness of the yarns during 2-D braiding, the processing performance of carbon fiber filament yarn was analyzed by tensile test and homemade yarn porcelain eye corner wear test. Some precautions during winding yarn tube were discussed. Several tubular fabric of different technological parameters were braided on two-dimensional braiding machine with 24 spindles. The influences of the braiding technology on the appearance and mechanical property of 2-D braided fabrics were studied. The experimental results show that the breaking strength of carbon fiber is 86.39 cN/tex, and much higher than of other fibers. The elongation at break is 1.12%, but the extensibility is poor. The factors influencing the wear degree of carbon fiber in the guide yarn eye successively are take-away force, guide yarn angle and braiding speed. Under the condition that the number of braided yarns is constant, the braiding pitch decreases, mass per unit area of the tubular fabric increases, the pilling is serious, and the tensile fracture strength of the fabric decreases.

      Influence of humidity and temperature on properties of sized polyester/cotton 65/35 yarn
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  70-74.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170608005
      Abstract ( 430 )   PDF (1525KB) ( 164 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problems of unreasonable temperature and humidity setting in the weaving workshop of textile mills, high warp and weft stops and low weaving efficiency, the relationships between temperature /relative humidity and mechanical properties of polyester /cotton 65/35 sized yarn were studied. The breaking strength and abrasion resistance of the sized yarn were tested, and the influence law of the temerature and humidity on the breaking strength and abrasion resistance of the sized yarn were analyzed. The non parametric hypothesis test was applied to prove the experimental results. The results show that temperature and humidity have no significant influence on the breading strength of sized yarn, and have significant influence on the wear resistance of the sized yarn. when the polyester / cotton 65/35 sized yarn under conditions of temperature of 22℃ and relative humidity of 78%, the sized yarn is the best in breaking strength and abrasion resistance, the sized polyester cotton yarn has better mechanical properties under the condition of low temperature and high humidity than that of high temperature and humidity. The stress yield point change and the crystallinity degree of the polyester / cotton 65/35 sized yarn are not remarkable under different humidities, explaining the reason why the temperature and humidity bave less influence on the breaking strength.

      Application of porphyrin iron/H2O2 system in low temperature bleaching of cotton fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  75-80.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170700206
      Abstract ( 457 )   PDF (1645KB) ( 176 )   Save
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      In view of the problems of energy consumption, environmental pollution and fabric strength loss during the conventional oxygen-alkali bleaching, biomimetic metal complexes porphyrin iron was used as a catalyst in low temperature peroxide bleaching of cotton fabric. The influences of catalyst concentration, pH value, H2O2 concentration, bleaching temperature and time on the whiteness and tensile strength index of the treated fabric were investigated by single factor and orthogonal tests. The optimized parameters are follows: mass concentration of porphyrin iron is 0.001 g/L, mass concentration of 30% H2O2 is 2 g/L, and bleaching at 60 ℃ for 45 min with a pH value of 12. The treated cotton fabric achieves the whiteness of 75.02 %, which is higher than that in conventional oxygen-alkali bleaching and tetraacetyl ethylenediamine (TAED) activation bleaching process. The tensile strength of the treated cotton fabric is 91.9 %, which is better than that in conventional alkaline oxygen bleaching process, but lower than that in the TAED activation bleaching process.

      Photocatalytic degradetion kinetics optimization of acid red 37 by response surface method and transformation mechanism thereof
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  81-88.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170505108
      Abstract ( 860 )   PDF (2109KB) ( 150 )   Save
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      In ordrt to explore the degradation possibility of monoazo dye acid red(AR37) and its transformation mechanism under attack of reactive oxygen species, a semi-empirical experssion was obtained by means of photocatalytic technology and central composite design based on the responsesurface method. The influences of different factors on the photocatalysis efficiency of acid red (AR37) were investigated. The optimal conditions are:substrate concentration of 90 μmol/L, TiO2 amount of  2.3 g/L, reaction temperature of 12.5 ℃ and initial solution pH value of 8.7. The influences of selected anions and cations on the degradation of AR37 were also studied. It was observed that Na+, Fe2+, Fe3+ and Zn2+ have significant inhibitory effect on the degradation of AR37 while Cu2+ accelerate the degradation of AR37. On the other hand, anions such as CrO42-, SO42-, ClO3-, MnO4- and Cl- has certain inhibitory effect on the degradation of AR37. Finally, the degradation intermediates of AR37 were identified by gas chromatography-mass spectrometer. The results show that in the photocatalytic process, after N= N and C-N bonds in AR37 molecules are broken, the further hydroxylation reaction is the main degradation path.

      Preparation and photocatalytic properties of BiVO4 loaded fiber
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  89-95.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170800507
      Abstract ( 561 )   PDF (2223KB) ( 193 )   Save
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      In order to improve the photocatalytic performance of bismuth vanadate(BiVO4), BiVO4 was loaded on the cationic-dyeable polyester by in-situ growth method. The influence of pH value, reaction temperature and time on the morphology of BiVO4 were also investigated. Surface morphology, crystal form, particle size and optical characteristic were characterized by scanning electron microscope, X-ray diffractometer and ultraviolet-visible spectrophotometer. The photocatalytic activity of the BiVO4-loaded fiber are pH value of 7, reacting temperature of 90°C for 8 h. The degradation ratio of 20 mg/L Reactive Black KN-B solution is approximately 77.2% by the photocatalytic fabric under visible light irradiation condition within 180 min. After being reused for three times, the degradation rate remains 57.3%, and the bursting strength retention remains is 74.8%.

      Preparation and application of environmental flame-retarded silicone-acrylic flocking adhesive
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  96-100.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170802805
      Abstract ( 411 )   PDF (1645KB) ( 191 )   Save
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      In order to develop high-added value and environment-friendly flocking adhesives, a flocking adhesive featured low-temperature curing, no formaldehyde releasing, alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEO) and flame-retardancy was synthesized by blending an organic and inorganic compound retardant in semi-continuous emulsion polymerization using ethyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate and acrylic acid as polymer monomers. The influence of different retardants, mass ratio of retardants, retardant amount, synergist amount on the flocking were investigated. The result show that flocking adhesive (FR) with 30% retardant (mass ratio of ammonium polyphosphate and FR-5 is 3:1) and 10% organic montmorillonite has properties with flocking fastness, hand feeling and flame-retardancy.

      Synthesis and application of phosphorus and nitrogen-containing chlorine-resistant flame retardant finishing agent
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  101-105.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170405505
      Abstract ( 393 )   PDF (1369KB) ( 267 )   Save
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      Dur to poor resistance to chlorine for most of phosphorus and nitrogen-containing flame retardant finishing agents, a phosphorus and nitrogen-containing chlorine-resistant flame retardant finishing agent was successfully synthesized by a two-step process using diethyl phosphate, N-hydroxymethyl acrylamide and epichlorohydrin as raw materials and sodium methoxide and sodium hydroxide as catalysts. The optimum synthetic conditions were determined by the orthogonal experiment, the flame retardant agent synthesized under the optimum conditions was characterized by infrared spectroscopy, and applied in the flame-retardant finishing of linen fabrics. The linen fabrics before and after finishing were characterized by infrared spectroscopy, the durability test and chlorine resistance test. The results indicate that the carbonized lingth of the linen fabrics finished with the synthesized chlorine-resistant flame retardant agent reachse 5.8 cm, the carbonized length after soaking with 20 g/L available chlorine solution for about 1 h still maintains at 9 cm. After 12 times of washing, the linen fabric finished by the flame retardant can still reach the standard GB B2, showing that a phosphorus and nitrogen-containingchlorine-resistant durable flame retardant finishing agent is successfully synthesized.

      Design of cooling firefighting protective clothing and evaluation on cooling performance
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  106-112.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170706207
      Abstract ( 625 )   PDF (1938KB) ( 374 )   Save
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      In ordrer to solve the heavy stress caused by multilayer heavy firefighter's protective clothing, a cooling fire fighter protective clothing was developed using a liquid cooling device to alleviate the thermal response of firefighters. Thermal manikin was utilized to analyze the cooling performance of the cooling fire fighter protective clothing in a hazardous environment. The firemen working environment (temperature of 40℃ and relative humidity of 50% ) was simulated. The influence of different arrangement of the heat transfer network on the skin surface temperature of the thermal manikin, temperature under the heat exchange pipeline, the temperature of the heat exchange pipeline interval, and temperature difference for inlet and outlet of the cooling equipment was investigated. The results indicate that the cooling equipment efficiently reduces the skin surface temperature of the thermal manikin, and the cooling performance of different distributions of heat transfer pipeline is different. The skin surface temperature of the thermal manikin with the horizontal pipe arrangement is up to 0.58 ℃ higher than that with the longitudinal arrangement. Both under the pipeline and in the pipeline interval, the temperature difference of the horizontal pipe arrangement is always larger than that of the longitudinal arrangement.The temperature difference for outlet and inlet of the horizintal arrangement is up to 3.8℃, higher than the longitudinal arrangement. After 20min, the temperature difference is still higher than the longitudinal arrangement. The experiment indicated that the cooling fire fighter protective clothing using the horizontal pipe arrangement can alleviate heat stress. It also can prolong working time and improve the efficiency of firefighters’ rescue activities.

      Influence of size of shape memory alloy on thermal protection of fabrics used in firefighters’ protective clothing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  113-118.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170703906
      Abstract ( 440 )   PDF (2053KB) ( 332 )   Save
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      To improve thermal protection of fabrics used in firefighter’s protective clothing embedded with shape memory alloy, fabric combinations with 3 deformation heights of shape memory alloy (SMA) spring and 3 different arrangement modes were developed to analyze the influence of the size of SMA. The protective performance of these fabric combinations were tested by hot surface contact and thermal radiation tests. The results indicated that the SMA could effectively improve the protective performance of fabric combinations, and the height of SMA spring influences the air gap distribution, thus determined the heat insulating property. Moreover, the impact of deformation height of SMA spring is influenced by the arrangement mode, which could be related with the air gap shape and distribution caused by the SMA springs. Finally, the thermal protection of fabrics with different arrangement mode also show different trends under the two thermal hazards, i.e., under both thermal hazards, the fabrics with no-cut SMA springs in the arrangement of one and three diag provided better performance than those with cut SMA springs, whereas the protection of fabrics with no-cut and cut SMA springs exhibited different change trend as the SMA springs are in two diag arrangement mode.

      Proportion of insensible persipiration of regional parts on adult males
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  119-124.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170800306
      Abstract ( 868 )   PDF (1648KB) ( 282 )   Save
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      In order to study the difference of the local insensible perspiration rate in different test states, the error analysis was carried out on the equipment, and two equations were established separately to predict the error. And then, the local insensible perspiration rate was measured on the ambient temperature of 13 ℃ and  relative humidity of 35% under the three active state (sitting, standing and low speed walking at 2 km/h) of the back, waist, chest, tummy, hip, front thigh, rear thigh, leg, upper arm, lower arm. Finally, the local insensible perspiration rate and the total perspiration rate was compared. The results proved that no significant difference exists in the insensible perspiration among the three sports states as well as the total perspiration rate. The total sweat rate of standing state is 6.99% highest than that in the sitting state and the total sweat rate of walking state is 8.56% higher than in the sitting state. The paired t test shows a significant difference in the relative perspiration rate radio among the three states.

      Study on redesign system of overstocked garments
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  125-130.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170707006
      Abstract ( 664 )   PDF (1703KB) ( 261 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problem of overstocked garments of Chinese clothing industry, based on the redesign method, the paper puts forward the redesign system of overstocked clothing. First of all, 10 representative brands were screened, and after a comparative analysis, four types of inventory products were summed up. Based on this, it is proposed to combine the inventory products with the new demand of diverse markets and the diversified cultural behavior, so as to achieve the purpose of digesting the inventory by the redesign method and realize to injection of the new fashion connotation to the original inventory. Secondly, the paper put forward the redesign system of overstocked garments, through which the inventory apparel was analyzed and sorted out, and the potential redesign possibility was excavated. It will be combined with the new social environment to form a variety of redesign scenarios. Then taking the redesign of overstocked man’s shirt as an example, this system extracted development elements for the later redesign stage through the quantitative analysis of overstocked shirts. With the satisfaction of target customers as an index, it evaluates redesign schemes and selects the optimal plan. Finally, this system effective realizes the transformation of the overstocked man’s shirt to new fashion products.

      Detecting method of foreign fibers in seed cotton based on deep-learning
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  131-135.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170803105
      Abstract ( 555 )   PDF (1815KB) ( 355 )   Save
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      In order to detect foreign fibers in seed cotton with heavy shadows, seed cotton samples without cotton shell and leafs, and 12 types of foreign fibers with different colors, shapes and sizes were randomly distributed on a moving convey surface. And then, 520 seed cotton images were obtained under the illuminations of light emitting diode (LED) and 1 148 images were obtained under the illuminations of double light source of LED +  linear laser by a color line-scan camera. Then Faster RCNN deep-learning neural networks composed of 13 convolutional layers, 13 sampling layers and 4 pooling layers were constructed. After training, the neural networks were used for detecting foreign fibers in the two types of seed cotton images respectively. The experimental results indicated that the detecting rates of the targets in the images under the illumination of LED and LED + linear laser are 90.3% and 86.7%, respectively, by the Faster RCNN. Especially, the detecting rate of white color foreign fibers increase from 5.9% to 90.3%.

      Position recognition of spinning yarn breakage based on convolution neural network
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  136-141.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170708306
      Abstract ( 480 )   PDF (1734KB) ( 208 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problem that the position of the broken yarn is difficult to be obtained in the process of detecting the yarn breakage, the spindles detection system based on image processing is studied. An industrial camera mounted on a roving car was used to record the image of the spinning section during the roving of the spinning frame. To get a clear character image, the mark of spindles on the beam of the spinning machine was identified by position cutting, morphological processing, character segmentation. And then the character image was classified by convolution neural network to export the number of broken yarn spindle. By mapping the structure of the neural network, it is shown that the feature map of the convolution layer is 4, the size of the sub-sampling pool pooling matrix is 2, the number of iterations is 300, the accuracy rate of the neural network is over 97%, and the  identification of an image spindle uses 1.152 s. The system could recognize the positionof yarn breakage and output the signals.

      Prediction on filtration performance of melt blown nonwoven fabric based on rough set theory and support vector machine
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  142-148.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170803507
      Abstract ( 519 )   PDF (2073KB) ( 194 )   Save
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      In order to predict the filtration performance of melt blown nonwoven, a prediction method based on attribute reduction and support vector machine was introduced. Six reducts, each including three parameters, were extracted from the complete parameter set of fiber web structure of melt blown nonwoven fabric in ROSETTA environment using rough set theory. Twenty eight models, each based on either a support vector machine (SVM) or a back-propagation artificial neural network (BP-ANN), were established to predict the filtration performance by taking the parameters of each reduct and the complete parameter as inputs. A k-fold cross validation technique was applied to access the optimized structural parameters of the models. The results show that the prediction accuracy of the SVM-based model taking thickness, fiber diameter and pore as input parameters is higher than that of any other model. The values of its prediction precision for both filtration efficiency and pressure drop are higher than 98% and their variation coefficients are both lower than 2%. This indicates that these three parameters can be considered as key factors injluencing the filtration performances of melt blown nonwoven fabric. Generally, the prediction performance of SVM-based models are better than that of BP-ANN-based models.

      Application of decision tree algorithm in quality management of knitting products
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  149-154.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170601706
      Abstract ( 370 )   PDF (1643KB) ( 223 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problem of the conventional product quality management methods of knitting enterprise of only focusing on post-processing, lack of scientific pre-management measures. Using the decision tree C5.0 algorithm, a variety of dey factors influencing quality,such as raw materials, raw material quality level, products, equipment types, environment temperature and humidity, blockers, shifts, were discussed. The knitting product quality data mining model was established. By using this model, the data mining of 8 157 quality data of a company after filtering processing was carried out, the results show that the order of influence on the quality of the grey fabric is (from high to low):raw materials, raw material quality level, equipment models, environment temperature and huimidity, shifts, blockers and products. Based on this result, the exact distribution of production factors is given to hilp knitting enterprises optimize the resources allocation to improve the product quality.

      Simulation of one-piece flow garment assembly line based on Flexsim software
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  155-161.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170703008
      Abstract ( 987 )   PDF (1954KB) ( 363 )   Save
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      For the empty slot, waiting, bottlenecks of one-piece flow assembly line and other phenomena in production, the optimization simulation of single production line was studied by using Flexsim software to improve optimization and forecasting efficiency. Based on the analyzing on the factors influencing the production balance of garment one-piece flwo, the influence of the personnel and production line on the single garment assembly line was anslyzed. Then, according to Flexsim simulation model garment single flow production line arrangement was established. Finally, taking a men's jacked one piece flow production line as an example, the men's jacket production line arrangement was optimized by changing the production and personnel arrangements and other methods. The results show that the line design efficiency and production efficiency are improved, and the feasibility of the Flexsim simulation model is effectively tested.

      Influencing actors and weight distribution of brand garments showcase display image
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  162-166.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170702805
      Abstract ( 689 )   PDF (1526KB) ( 235 )   Save
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      For the wondow display factors in the marginalization problem in the design of brand clothing stores, four main influence factors were selected in the view of objective evaluation and used as showcase display first-grade evaluation indexes, and market survey and open interviews were used as the second-grade evaluation indexes. The evaluation index system of brand garments showcase display image was constructed finally. The weight of each index was obtained by using combination of SPSS analysis and the fuzzy mathematical statistics. The results show that the brand garment cultural factors and the professional quality and attitude of service personnel bave the largest weight influence factor, which are the key to build brand clothing window display image, adn the focus of the window display image is the construction of the internal environment for window. The influence facors of window background design factor blay an important role in the window environment factor, which is the important part of the design with clothing store planning.

      Structure, properties and development trend of wetlaid/hydroentanglement dispersible materials
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  167-174.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170800808
      Abstract ( 879 )   PDF (2570KB) ( 263 )   Save
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      In order solve the problems of difficult degradation of disposable moist wipes after use and easy blockage of the drainage pipe, the new dispersible and biodegradable wetlaid/hydroentanglement materials for moist wipes were introduced in terms of preparation technology, fiber composition, material attributes and application. Meanwhile, the material structure characteristics and properties (wet strength, dispersion and handling) were compared and analyzed. The results show that the material composed of long and short fiber entanglements and has the attributes of both nonwoven and paper. Moreover, long fiber (short cut regenerated cellulose) entanglements as fiber reinforcement influence the wet strength and dispersibility of the mateiral, and the material hand ling is close to the carding/hydroentanglement nonwoven. Finally, the development trend of materials, including reinforced fiber optimization, application of auxiliary reinforcement and equipment process improvement, were systematically expounded.

      Progress in overall wearability evaluation of disposable diapers
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(06):  175-182.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170803008
      Abstract ( 795 )   PDF (2525KB) ( 425 )   Save
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      The overall wearability evaluation of disposable diapers provides a theoretical basis for the development of evaluation system and product optimization. Therefore, progress in overall wearability evaluation of dusposable diapers was reviewed and future research field was prospected in this paper according to diapers functional requirements and technical status. In view of the interactive relationship among diapers moisture management capability, contact comfort, heat and moisture comfort and fit comfort, the performance evaluation priorities was put forward. The future study in disposable diapers wearabklity evaluation may focus on the beat and moisture transfer mechanism between its multilayer constructions, the professional experimental platform and measuring instruments, and the comfort evaluation system of disposable diapers. The balance of four performances is very important in disposable diapers' overall wearability evaluation, in which the moisture management capability is the premise and the primary modules,contact and thermal comfort are the principal part, and fit comfort is a potential factor that can not be neglected.