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Table of Content

    15 September 2018, Volume 39 Issue 09
    • Preparation and filtration performance of polyacrylonitrile graded composite nanofiber membrane
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  1-7.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170900107
      Abstract ( 854 )   PDF (2211KB) ( 286 )   Save
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      In order to play the role of nanofiber membrane in field of high efficiency air filter material and realize the continuous production of nanofiber filter material, the Box-Behnken trial design method was used to establish the relationship between polyacrylonitrile (PAN) nanofiber diameter and spinning process parameters. The nanofibers used in the field of air filtration were prepared with a self-made electrostatic-induction-assisted solution blown machine, and PAN nanofibers with controllable diameter were prepared continuously. PAN nanofibers with different diameters were prepared by continuous on-line composite design. The structure and morphology of the fiber membrane were prepared by continuous on-line composite design. The structure and morphology of the fiber membrane were characterized. The reaults indicates that by adjusting the spinning process parameters, the control of fiber diameter can be effectively achieved. Meanwhile, the composite membrane by this technology is fabricated by physical screening after eliminating static electricity. The removal rate and pressure drop of the composite membrane for dioctyl sebacate particles (0f 0.4 μm) are  99.923 % and 117 Pa, respectively. The filtration efficiency for particles with larger than 0.8 μm is 100%.

      Preparation and performance of pentaerythritol phosphate/zine diethyl phosphate synergistic flame retardant polyamide 6
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  8-14.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171101107
      Abstract ( 1382 )   PDF (1960KB) ( 208 )   Save
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      In order to improve the flame retardance and spinnability of polyamide 6 (PA6) fibers, a synergetic flame-retardant system of pentaerythritol phosphate (PEPA) / zinc diethyl phosphate (ZDP) was designed. Flame retardant polyamide 6 (PA6) / PEPA / ZDP composites were prepared by a melt blending method in a twin-screw extruder. The influence of different flame retardant components on the flame retardancy and the spinning process and properties of the optimal flame retardant ratio were studied by scanning electron microscopy, differential scanning calorimetry, thermo gravimetry, cone calorimetry, limit oxygen index (LOI) and UL-94 rating. The results indicate that PEPA can decrease the thermal stability of  PA6, but ZDP can improve the thermal stability of the composites, which can be complementary with each other. When the mass ratio of PEPA and ZDP is  10 : 5 in PA6, the value of LOI reaches 28%, and the flame burning time of the UL-94 is reduced obviously. The residual carbon amount of cone calorimetry increases by 6.56%, and the value of total heat release decreases by 34.5%. It is found that the composites have excellent spinnability. The breaking strength is 1.34 cN/dtex and The as-spun fibers elongation at break is 33.99% after as-spun fibers are subjected to hot stretching by  three times.

      Analysis on components properties of alkali-soluble polyester/polyamide 6 sea island fiber
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  15-21.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171010007
      Abstract ( 1183 )   PDF (1995KB) ( 196 )   Save
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      In order to slove the problems of low strength, easy deformation and poor recovery after deformation of the superfine fiber synthetic leather, taking the sea island fiber as the research object, the alkali-soluble polyester/polyamide 6 (COPET/PA6) sea island fiber was treated with NaOH and HCI solution to obtain the PA6 island component and lotrs-shaped hollow-core COPET sea component. Tensile properties, relaxation properties and creep properties of COPET/PA6 sea island fibers, PA6 island components and COPET sea components were measured and analyzed. The viscoelasticity was fitted exponentially. The relationship of tensile properties between components and sea island fiber was discussed. It is concluded that the tensile properties and the change trend of COPET/PA6 sea island fibers are substantially consistent with those of PA  island and accord wiht the mixing law. The COPET sea component possesses good anti-relaxation creep properties, while those of the PA6 island components are poor, which directly affect the relaxation resistance and creep resistance of the COPET/PA6 sea island fiber.

      Adsorption mechanism between nano-gold and viscose fiber
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  22-28.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171007107
      Abstract ( 956 )   PDF (2039KB) ( 146 )   Save
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      In order to realize the controllable preparation of gold-loaded antibacterial fiber, viscose fiber as the research object and nano-gold solution as the adsorbent were used to prepare gold-loaded viscose fiber by impregnation adsorption. Intrinsic action form and adsorption mechanism between nano-gold nanoparticles and viscose fiber were explored by ultraviolet spectrophotometer, infrared spectrometer and ZETA potentiomteter. The results show that nano-gold particles are more evenly dis-tributed on the surface of viscose fiber, and the gold-loaded viscose fiber’s color gradually increases with the increasing of gold content. Gold-loaded viscose fiber molecule does not produce new surface functional groups, and its chemical structure does not change fundamentally. During the adsorption process, the negative charges carried by nano-gold and the positive charge on viscose fiber’s surface form an electrostatic attraction, and the hydroxyl and carboxyl groups of nano-gold particles form a hydrogen bond association with the hydroxyl groups of viscose fiber. The adsorption mechanism of nano-gold and viscose fiber is electrostatic attraction and hydrogen bond association. The adsorption process is spontaneous and physical, conforming to the quasi-second-order kinetic model and the Langmuir model.

      Burning behaviors of ginned cotton under external heat flux
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  29-33.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171104005
      Abstract ( 622 )   PDF (1614KB) ( 122 )   Save
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      In order to improve the safety management level of ginned cotton warehouses and prevent fire accidents,  the combustion behavior and difference of packaged ginned cotton with  different densities under fifferent radiant heat fluxes were studied systematically by cone calorimeter, and the isohermal  thermo weightlessness of ginned cotton at different temperatures was analyzed by means of thermo gravimetric analyzer. The results show that the combustion state of ginned cotton has a great relationship with density, heat fluxes and fire source. When the fire flux is greater than 15kW/m2, the relatively dense ginned cotton generates an open flame after it is ignited by the fire source and is in smoldering when it is not ignited. When ignition occurs, with the heat flux improved gradually from 10 kW/m2 to 35kW/m2,the combustion state of relatively loose ginned cotton would change accordingly. When the radiation intensity reaches 35 kW/m2, the ignition time of the ginned cotton samples with different densities is about 7 s, which is highly inflammable. The ginned cotton can be completely decomposed when being exposed to heat flux above 15 kW/m2 over an extended period of time.

      Preparation of flexible all-braiding triboelectric nanogenerator
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  34-38.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171004006
      Abstract ( 983 )   PDF (1745KB) ( 384 )   Save
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      In order to well fit human body with flexible all-braided triboelectric nanogenerator (FTENG) and easily prepare FTNG, the FTNG was garmented. By using cone-spinningmethod, the skin-core structured composite yarns were formed by winding nylon (PA6) and polyester (PET) sewing yarn onto the surface of Ag fiber surface, respectively. These composite yarns were woven into self-powered fabrics with a shuttle, in which PA6 cortex cortex and PET were used as friction layer and the core layer of Ag fiber was used as electrode for effective biomechanical energy harvesting and active wearable electronics. Based on the skin-core structured composite yarns and the advanced 2-D structural design, the open circuit voltage and short circuit current are 20.0V and 1.50μA, respectively, and the maximum peak power density can reach 1.6mW/m-2. In addition, the collected power is capable of charging a commercial capacitor.

      Tensile mechanical properties simulation of viscose woven fabrics based on ABAQUS
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  39-43.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170901405
      Abstract ( 1595 )   PDF (1665KB) ( 259 )   Save
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      In order to predict fabric tensile properties, the finite element method was used to analyze the tensile mechanics of the fabric. Based on the geometric structure parameters of the fabric, the fabric model was established by using the textile modeling software Texgen, and the material properties, interaction and boundary conditions were set in the finite element software ABAQUS to simulate the tensile mechanical properties of the fabric, strain - strain curve and stress distribution after extension and deformation. Finally, the simulation results were verified by the tensile strength test of the fabric. The results show that the simulated strain-strain curve is roughly the same as the tensile-elongation curve of the experiment. The error between maximum tensile stress and the experimental tensile stress is 3.03%, which proves that ABAQUS finite element software can simulate the reliability of viscose fabric tensile mechanical properties.

      Modelling and algorithm of weft knitted fabric
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  44-49.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171002706
      Abstract ( 1157 )   PDF (1772KB) ( 216 )   Save
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      For more real simulation effects and enrichment of details of weft knitted fabric geometry, this paper models the fabric at the scale of fibers. A three-layer spiral fiber structure of twisted yarn model was established for yarn geometry of weft knitted fabric. Rotation minimizing frames were regards as local coordinates for calculating fibers positions. A yarn model was established based on the methods of geometric and coordinate transformation, which had arbitrary curved center line. According to three basic knitted fabric structure of knit, tuck and float, three typical structure units of weft knitted fabric were constructed with non-uniform rational B-Splines, which were obtained with calculated control points. Finally, an algorithm for building a geometric model of weft knitted fabric using twisted yarns based on the structural notation was proposed. A sample using the algorithm was shown. The geometric model of weft knitted fabric with twisted yarn established according to the algorithm in this paper has remained details of yarn twisting, which looks closer to the real fabric.

      Selection of plaid fabric pattern based on interactive evaluation
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  50-56.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170905107
      Abstract ( 592 )   PDF (2315KB) ( 98 )   Save
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      In order to quickly catch the consumer's demand and grasp the design positioning of plaid yarn-dyed fabric pattern, a dynamic user preference model by displaying interactive evaluation and implicit preference calculation was proposed. Firstly, the design feature elements of the plaid yarn-dyed fabric pattern was determined, and the pattern samples for the interactive evaluation and the preferred pattern database were selected. Secondly, the user's preference on the pattern of design feature elements was obtained through scoring the pattern samples. Then, the relationship between user's preference and the design feature elements of the pattern was quantitatively reflected. Finally, the user's preferred pattern was selected out based on the preference of each pattern which was calculated automatically in the pattern database. The results from 32 users participated in the test show that all users have more than 50% average satisfaction with the 8 selected patterns, in which 2/3 of the users have more than 80% average satisfaction. It is indicates that the preferred model has good feasibility and can help the designers quickly catch the consumer's demand for the plaid yarn-dyed fabric, providing reference for personalized customization and design.

      Fabric defect inspection based on modified discriminant complete local binary pattern and lattice segmentation
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  57-64.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171001908
      Abstract ( 833 )   PDF (2321KB) ( 152 )   Save
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      The conventional cenral local binarization mode (CLBP) used in fabric defect inspection has the problems of high histogram dimension and feature redundancy, and limitation exists in conventional CLBP when the amplitude of the small part of the image varies greatly or the amplitude is flat. To solve the problems, a modified discriminant complete local binary pattern with lattice segmentation for fabric defect inspection was proposed. The proposed algorithm was divided into two a training part and testing part. The training stage was to calculate the feature value for each lattice after lattice segmentation in defect-free images and acquire the mean value of all feature values. The threshold was calculated by calculating the relative divergence between the feature value of every lattice and the mean of the feature values. The testing stage was to calculate the relative divergence and compare the result with the threshold. The lattice whose result was larger than the threshold was marked as a defect area. The proposed algorithm was compared with local binary patterns, boolean line indicator method, regular band method algorithms. Testing on fabric image datasets including 2 kinds of textures and 3 kinds of defects shows that the method has better inspection effect on star pattern and box pattern fabrics, one part of the positive rate (TPR) value can reach 0.99, and most of the inspection results of TPR are above 0.90.

      Damage index characteristics of large-size 3-D braided composites
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  65-70.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171010206
      Abstract ( 803 )   PDF (1882KB) ( 81 )   Save
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      In order to study the real-time monitoring of the internal damage of large-size 3-D braided composites, the fiber Bragg gratings (FBG) sensors were embedded in the 3-D braided composite preform according to the braiding characteristics of 3-D six-directional braided composites. Amethod for producing large-size intelligent composite materials was proposed. The tensile characteristics of the FBG sensor inside the composites was studied. Based on the principal component analysis method, the damage detection algorithm of the specimen structure was proposed. The damage index performance characteristics of the four samples with the same damage were analyzed. The experimental results show that the FBG sensor can accurately measure the internal damage of the composite. The damage index can describe the damage degree of the specimen sturcture. The T2 index and Phi index can diagnose the occurrence of internal damage of the specimens more quickly. For the same damage of the sample, the Phi index is calculated to be more than 2 times of the T2 index, and the Phi index can be used to judge whether the interior of the sample is damaged in time. Q  index and I index describe the details of the damage more accurately.

      Application of waterborne polyurethane-acrylate coated pigment
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  71-76.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171003807
      Abstract ( 775 )   PDF (2115KB) ( 151 )   Save
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      In order to improve the stability of the paste form of pigment and facilitate the pigment dyeing process, a waterborne polyurethane-acrylate coated pigment adhesives was prepared from  polyurethane as shell and pigment-polyacrylate as core by emulsifier-free emulsion polymerization. It was used for pigment pad dyeing of cotton fabric. The size distribution, mean diameter and surface morphology of polymer emulsions were characterized by nanometer particle sizer and transmission electron microscopy. The pigment dyeing process was optimized by adjusting the dosage of waterborne polyurethane-acrylate coated pigment adhesives, sodium alginate, padding process and drying and curing parameters on the padding process. The results showed that waterborne polyurethane-acrylate coated pigment latex particles exhibit obvious core-shell structure. The mean diameter is 126 nm. The dyed fabrics also show higher coloration when the dosage of sodium alginate is 0.2%, pre-dryed at 80 °C and cured at 140 °C by two-dipping-two-padding. The dyed fabrics displayed good flexibility after softening finishing with dry crocking fastness up to 4-5 level, wet crocking fastness up to 4 level and soaping fastness reached grade 4.

      Ultralow pollution micro-printing method based on liquid disperse dyes
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  77-83.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170901307
      Abstract ( 1147 )   PDF (2155KB) ( 95 )   Save
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       Aiming at the problem of high pollution problem of direct printing on polyester fabric, according to the process requirements of micro-printing, 4 liquid disperse dyes and acrylate binder SA modified by organic silicone were prepared. The properties of 4 liquid disperse dyes and the influcnce of liquid disperse blue MR on the rheology and viscosity of synthetic thickener PTF-3 were studied, and the influence of the binder on the dye uptake rate of commercial disperse blue 79 and liquid disperse blue MR were investigated. Moreover, the color fastness of 4 liquid disperse dyes were tested, and the influence of commercial disperse yellow 6G on the rheology of printing pulp and the change of the absorbency of the reduced and cleaned commercial disperse blue 79 residual liquid were compared. The results show that the self-prepared liquid disperse dyes have excellent diffusivity, and do not contain banned components. The binder is favourable to improve the percentage of dye uptake rate. The micro-printing process adopting printing color pulp containing liquid disperse dye MR, binder SA and thickener and the post-treatment by hot water washing has the advantages of good printing performance and color fastness, and can omit reduction and cleaning to reduce the water consumption.

      Synthesis and application of waterborne polyurethane anti-pilling agent modified by linear polyether-blocked amino silicone
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  84-89.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170301506
      Abstract ( 1012 )   PDF (1946KB) ( 92 )   Save
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      In order to improve the anti-pilling performance of knitted cashmere fabric, modified waterborne polyurethane (WPU) finishing agent was pre pared by using polytetrahydrofuran ether glycol as soft segment, dimethylolpropionic acid  as hydrophilic chain extender, and isophorone diisocyanate as hard segment and linear polyether-blocked amino silicone (LEPS) as modifier. The structure and properties of modified WPU were characterized by means of Fourier transform infrared spectrometry, dynamic thermo mechanical analyzer, rolling box type pilling tester and so on.  The results show that the modification by LEPS could obviously improves the flexibility of WPU film. The pilling grades of LEPS modified WPU finished knitted cashmere fabric is improved from 2-3 to 4 with soft touch. The color and color fastness to rubbing of the finished fabric are almost equal to those of the untreated fabric, static decay time of the finished fabric is reduced from 8.7 s to 2.7 s, and the durability of the finished effect is good.

      Preparation and performance of flexible heater by coating pollyester yarns with carbon nanotubes
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  90-94.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171009705
      Abstract ( 1262 )   PDF (1574KB) ( 194 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problem that the current heating wire has poor flexibility and insufficient washability , the conducting flexible heating wire was prepared by coating with carbon nanotubes on the surface of polyester yarn. According to the technology requirement of flexible heating wire preparation, the experimental system of uniform coating of yarn was designed and applied in coating of carbon nanotubes on the surface of polyester yarn.  The resistance and thermal properties were measured, and the microscopic image was observed. The results show that the experimental platform can realize the preparation of flexible heating wire, the average resistivity of the heating wire with a length of 15 cm is 24.895 Ω · cm and the standard deviation is 0.473Ω · cm. The surface of the polyester yarn is uniformly coated with a layer of mesh structure carbon nanotube materia. Under the application of 36V voltage, the parallel network structure constructed by the heating wire surface can reach 50.3 ℃ heating temperature within 4 min.

      Preparation and properties of polypyrrole/cotton anti-microwave radiation fabric
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  95-101.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170901708
      Abstract ( 637 )   PDF (2309KB) ( 100 )   Save
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      In order to obtain anti-electromagnetic radiation fabric with wave-absorbing characteristics, the polypyrrole/cotton fabrics were fabricated by in situ polymerization. Based on the analysis of the influence of the preparation parameters on the electromagnetic shielding effectiveness (EMSE) tested by the flange coaxial method and the style of the fabric analyzed by KES-FB aystem, the optimum process parameters were obtained. Meanwhile, the influence of fabric conductivity, thickness, electromagnetic frequency and surface hole area on the EMSE of polypyrrole/cotton composite fabric was nanlyzed. The EMSE prediction model of polypyrrole/cotton composite fabric and the fabric with holes in the surface is established. The results show that with the increase of the conductivity and the thickness, the EMSE of the composite fabric increases, and the EMSE presents a falling tendency with the increase of the frequency of electromagnetic wave. The aperture size has remarkable influence on EMSE of fabrics.

      Coupling modification and process regulation of tyrosine residues on silk fibroin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  102-108.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171004507
      Abstract ( 622 )   PDF (2072KB) ( 150 )   Save
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      In order to explore the regulation rules of chemical modification of tyrosine residues to realize the controlled chemical modification of silk fibroin, the effects of processing parameters including alkaline pretreatment, the dosage of diazonium salt, time and pH value on the modification of o-nitroaniline diazonium salt to tyrosine residues were analyzed, using the color depth K/S value of modified silk fibroin as the index. Meanwhile, the adsorption process adn type of adsorption isotherm of coupling modification of diazonium salt to tyrosine residues were also studied in the experiment. Results show that the Zeta potentialvalue of silk fibroin is reduced by alkali pretreatment, while the electron cloud density of the phenolic hydroxyl ortho carbon of tyrosine residues is increased, both of which promoted the adsorption of silk fibroin fibers on diazonium salt and increase the rate of coupling modification reaction. The silk fibroin fibers are modified in a bath with n (diazonium salt): n (tyrosine) = 2:3 at pH of 6.8 at 5 ℃ for 45 min, and then a higher K/S value is obtained. Moreover, the adsorption isotherm of tyrosine residue coupling reaction conforms to the Langmuir model.

      Action coding for operation process of garment template
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  109-114.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171010306
      Abstract ( 1577 )   PDF (1821KB) ( 165 )   Save
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      In order to improve the accuracy of calculating the working hours of the garment template sewing process, by the classification study on the sewing actions of the template, 19 template sewing action codes were developed for the general sewing time (GST) software. Firstly, this paper summarized the standard actions of 12 automatic template and 7 manual templates during the template sewing process. The modapts time process was used to decompose action elements,  the time value of those actions were calculated. Secondly, 19 actions were coded according to the code rules of the general sewing time software. Finally, modapts time value was transformed into general sewing time value to obtain the standard time value of the new actions. By the comparison experiments between new and old codes calculating results of GST system and the real measured times, the results show that the calculation accuracy of using new template coding is more than 90%. It is show that the new codes can more accurately calculate the working hours of the template sewing process.

      Influential factors of upper crotch length in young male's pants
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  115-119.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171003305
      Abstract ( 2263 )   PDF (1415KB) ( 192 )   Save
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      In order to improve the fitness and comfort of young male dress, the characteristics of young men's upper crotch shape were studied, the human body data was measured by the ono-contact 3-D body scanner, and the Excel and SPSS19.0 data analysis software were used for descriptive statistical analysis of the related variables. The correlation coefficient matrix table was used to acpuir the influencing factors of the upper crotch length, and regression analysis was carried out on them. Then according to standard sizing systems for garment and K-means cluster analysis, the upper crotch length was classified. The results show that the basic data of young male presents the standard normal distribution, and the upper crotch length is highly concentrated near the mean. Influencing factors of the upper crotch length are the total crotch length, waist-hip height and body height. The influencing factors are independent. The total crotch length has the most significant effect on the upper crotch length with the correlation coefficient of 0.86. The positive correlation of the upper crotch length exists with the total crotch length, waist-hip height and body height. The data of the uper crotch length are divided into 4 categories by an interval of 1.5 cm.

      Aanalysis on skin deformation of human body during cycling based on motion capture
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  120-126.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171005707
      Abstract ( 831 )   PDF (1758KB) ( 209 )   Save
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       In order to revealregularities of the change of human body size and the deformation of the skin during cycling, the paper firstly used the OptiTrack motion capture system to get the position change of the human body marker point iand track of motion in the cycling movement, and analyze qualitatively the dynamic change of the human body. And then the regularities of leg skin deformation were further strdied by lineation-on-body experiment. It is found that the fluctuation of the markers and human body size in the waist and above is slight change, the change fluctuationof the lower is larger than above the waist, especially in the knee, and the change of the vertical direction is greater than that in the horizontal direction. Furthermore, the results show that the change of the leg is complicated and differences in the changes exist on different regions during cycling, the change rate of girth is in the range of -8% to 16% and the length is in the range of -60%, 40%. The change of knee is the most obvious and the maximum change rate is about -60%, and the change of thigh and lower leg is small.

      Research on open local thermal resistance measurement system
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  127-133.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171003907
      Abstract ( 673 )   PDF (2281KB) ( 142 )   Save
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      In view of very few tests on local thermal insulation using “Whole-segment” thermal manikin, with “Whole-segment” ( "Walter" sweating manikin) in Cornell University, the open local thermal resistance test system was designed and developed, and related research was carried out. By system instances including nude state and waering M type cotton shirt + trouser state, wearing M type cotton short sleeve shirt (large hole) + trouser state, wearing M type cotton short sleeve shirt (small hole) + trouser state, wearing M type cotton T-shirt + trouser state, whole body heat flux test, local heat flux test and local thermal resistance test were completed with this system. The results show that the open local thermal resistance test system can accurately represent the local heat flux value of the manikin under different clothing conditions, the overall heat loss tested does not exceed 4.6 W/m2, and the local resistance error can be conrolled within 3.1%.

      Design of hybrid sensor for detecting broken raw silk
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  134-138.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170905905
      Abstract ( 608 )   PDF (1538KB) ( 85 )   Save
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      For the problem of difficult detection on broken raw sillk due to the very tiny diameter of the raw sillk, a hybrid sensor for detecting the broken raw sildk was designed based on the theory of photoelectric diode. The mechanical part includes an indirect measurement mechanism of broken raw silk, a photoelectric diode installation mechanism and an installation shell. The circuit part includes several circuits about sibnal transmission, signal reception, signal processing and other modules, such as SCM module and LED drive module. The optical signals before and after the raw silk broken were collected. The results show that the sensor can convert the faint optical signals into electrical signals which can be recognized and processed directly by SCM. The sensor has high practicability and effectiveness in the detection of broken raw silk.

      Numerical simulation for twisting chamber of air jet vortex spinning based on hollow spindle with spiral guiding grooves
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  139-145.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171008407
      Abstract ( 813 )   PDF (1932KB) ( 80 )   Save
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      In order to improve the yarn strength, a kind of hollow spindle with spiral guiding grooves was proposed to solve the problem of low yarn strength for air jet vortex spinning. In this paper, the numerical simulation method was used to study the flow field characteristics of the twisting chamber of air jet vortex spinning based on hollow spindle with spiral guiding grooves and to verify the improved effect of spiral guiding groove structure of hollow spindle on the yarn property. The results show that the spiral guiding groove structure can guide the flow of air and increase the twisting action of the free-end fiber. In addition, the existence of spiral guiding grooves causes the static pressure and velocity of the airflow inside and outside the grooves to be different, which results in the migration and self-twist of the free-end fiber, and further improves the yarn strength of the air jet vortex spinning.

      Online monitoring of yarn hook stress signal and analysis of spinning tension
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  146-152.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171104307
      Abstract ( 866 )   PDF (1818KB) ( 124 )   Save
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      In order to reduce the yarn breakage and improve the ring spinning production efficiency, an online detecting device for detection on spinning tension of ring spinning was developed with the force sensor and displacement sensor embedded in the guide plate. The dynamic stress at the guide wire was detected by the computer signal data acquisition and processing system. Combined with physical-mathematical equations, the dynamic variation of spinning tension was solved according to the drawing - twisting – winding mechanical models and mathematical equations. The results show that when program board is lifted and droped once, spinning tension of twisting area, the top and bottom ballooning tension and the winding tension periodically vary from small to large and then to small. Compared with the maximum tension of middle yarn, that of small yarn increases by 12.6%, and big yarn increases by 10.6%.

      Control technology for active dynamical yarn feeding for circular weft knitting machine
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  153-159.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170906207
      Abstract ( 1039 )   PDF (1924KB) ( 128 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problems of current circular weft knitting machines of nonadjustable yarn tighters while coil weaving dice to undynamical stepless adjustment of the yarn amount, single coil size and uncontrallabe diameter of two ends of cylindrical fabric, the diameter of the fabric is not controllable from beginning to the end. In view of these problems, the study designed a control technology for active dynamical yarn feeding for, in which the quantity of yarn and the speed of servo motor could follow the position and speed of the spindle.The dynamic control system based on location and speed control was designed according to the weft knitting principle and the requirement of yarn delivery, which uses a ARM processor, a servo motor and a encoder of collecting needle position. The design of key hardware circuit, the implementation of software development, and the control method which according to the position and speed signal by the orthogonal coding pulse count the control technology were discussed as far as the control technology was concerned. The dynamic position following and speed following of the servo motor were realized. The test results show that the active yarnfeeding device realized by this control technology has many advantages, that the amount of yarn can be adjusted dynamically, the size of the coil can be changed, the tightness of yarn can be adjusted dynamically, and the diameter of cylindrical fabric is variable, which improved the appearance and body feeling of fabric.

      Dynamic analysis and optimization of rotary dobby lifting comprehensive mechanism
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  160-168.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171104709
      Abstract ( 860 )   PDF (2485KB) ( 251 )   Save
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      In order to improve the overall performance of the lifting comprehensive mecanism, the dynamic characteristics were deeply studied. Firstly, based on the analytical design theory of the cam mechanism and the requirement of the loom shedding process, the cam profile of the rotary dobby lifting mechanism was designed. On this basis, the kinematic model was established. The dynamic model of the mechanism was established by using the Lagrange equation. Secondly, the virtual prototype of this mechanism was established in automatic dynamic analysis of mechanical sysems (ADAMS) , and the the drive torque for large disk by MatLab and ADAMS were compared and analyzed to test the correctness and validity of the proposed dynamic model. Finally, based on the constructed dynamic model, the influence of rotating speed of the big disk, the material and the movement distance of the heald frame, the theoretical profile of the heald cam on the driving torque of the large disk were simulated and optimized, respectively. The results show that reducing the mass and movement distance of heald frame, using a cam profile of the lifting comprehensive mechanism with five modified constant speed motion laws can reduce the fluctuation quantity of the driving torque for the large disk and improve the whole dynamic performance of the lifting comprehensive mechanism.

      Intelligent determination of blending fiber for polytrimethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  169-175.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171206207
      Abstract ( 864 )   PDF (1969KB) ( 61 )   Save
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      The most effective method to determine polytrimehylene terephthalate (PTT) fiber and polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) fiber blending ratio, the melted micro projection method is difficult to achieve intelligent identification and automatically count number of fibers. To solve this technical problem, the microscopic image of PBT fiber and PTT fiber blended was preprocessed by image processing technology to obtain the ideal thresholding image, and PBT and PTT fibers was intelligently separated and automatically counted; then the three eigenvalues of fitness, chromaticity and fiber straightness of each fiber was extracted, and three eigenvalues matrix of 200 fibers were used as learning samples to establish a BP neural network, and twenty fiber were used to verify that. The results show that the recognition rate of PTT fiber and PBT fiber are higher than 99%. The mixed fibers are intelligently identified by this method successfully. The images of 1 000 blended fibers are processed in the same way. The blending ratio of PTT fiber and PBT fiber is calculated by the melted micro projection method to be 38% and 62% or 32% and 68%. Compared with the corresponding actual blending ratio (40% and 60% or 30% and 70%), the error was within ±3%.

      Construction and application of topological relations in extraction process of defective samples
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  176-181.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180105806
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      In order to realize the identification of fabric defects and the matching location of the defective samples in garment production and to solve the problem of rapid detection, extraction and replacement of defective samples, taking the dyed denim as the research object, the common defect marks were classified according to the characteristics, and based on the topological relationship model of spatial objects, the matrix relationship and topological intersection model between convex and concave samples and block and linear defects were deduced based on 9-intersection matrix model and 4-intersection matrix model. This topology model was applied to the extraction process of defective sample in the production of cowboy clothing, and an algorithm for extracting defective samples was proposed by combining the image information of the defect identification and the sample data from the automatic discharge system. Finally, a single-layered denim cloth with a width of 1.52 m and a length of 8 m was used as the experimental object to verify the proposed method for extracting defective samples. The results show that the method can accurately locate the coordinate information of the defects on the cloth, and successfully extract the information of the samples containing the defects to supply the supplementary discharge of the automatic discharge system, and the accuracy rate is above 95%.

      Countermeasures and cause of homogenization competition of garment industry from the perspective of supply-side structural reform
      Journal of Textile Research. 2018, 39(09):  182-188.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171100307
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      Normative economics model was used to explain the homogenization competition phenomenon and structure mismatch of domestic garment industry. Furthermore, the relationship between product differentiation strategy and enterprise benefit was analyzed, and then the important factors affecting the strategy of product differentiation was discussed. The results show that the basic reason for the homogenization competition of garment industry is the lack of independent product innovation cap ability and the pursuit of profit maximization. The key effect of garment industry supply side structural reform is that garment firms need to adopt differentiation competitive strategy, and must pay attention to look for new garment market segments, weigh the marginal costs and benefits , and focus on the consumer demand change. In the end, countermeasures are proposed from the two levels of government and firms.