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Table of Content

    15 August 2018, Volume 39 Issue 08
    • Miscibility and crystallization properties of biodegradable poly (3-hydrozybutyrate-co-3-hydroxyvalerate)/poly (lactic acid) blends
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  1-8.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171001408
      Abstract ( 566 )   PDF (26649KB) ( 40 )   Save
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      In order to provide theoretical basis for preparation of poly (3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxyvalerate)/ poly(lactic acid) (PHBV/PLA) blend fibers, PHBV/PLA blends with different mass ratios were prepared by melt mixing. The differential scanning calorimetry, thermo-gravimetric analysis, dynamic mechanical analyzer, X-ray diffraction were used to analyze the compatibility, thermal stability and crystallization properties. The dynamic thermal crystallization process of PHBV/PLA blends was observed using a hot-stage polarized microscope. The results indicate that the compatibility between PHBV and PLA is poor on account of two distinct melting temperatures and glass transition temperature. No any new diffraction peaks appeared at X-ray diffraction curves of the blends. The added PLA improves the thermal stability of PHBV and broadened the melt processing window of PHBV. The crystalline phase transition of PHBV/PLA blends changes gradually from the sea-island phase to PHBV-continuous phase and PLA-continuous phase with the increase of PLA content.

      Preparation of 10,12-pentacosadiynoicacid-modifiedpolyurethane/poly(ethylene oxide) fiber membrane and its photo/thermochromic properties
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  9-14.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171000906
      Abstract ( 913 )   PDF (8282KB) ( 25 )   Save
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      For the preparation of color-changing materials used for chemical anti-counterfeit, with 10,12-pentacosasiynoic acid as a photo /thermochromic compound, diacetylene-embedded polyurethane/poly (ethylene oxide) (PU/PEO) composite fiber membrane were prepared by electrospinning. The influences of PU/PEO blending mass ratio and spinning solution cimcentration on the microstructure of fiber membrane were analyzed by scanning electron microscope, and the color parameters, K/S values and absorption curves of fiber membrane were measured by color spectrometer to investigate the photo/thermochromic properties at the same time. The results show that the viscosity of the spinning solution increased with the increase of the ratio of PEO and the concentration of spinning solution, which facilitates continuous spinning but causes the increase of the fiber average diameter. Under the radiation of 254 nm ultraviolet light, diacetylene is successfully polymerized, and the color of fiber changes from white to blue. The time required for photochromic discoloration and the discoloration depth of the fiber mimbrane increases with the increase of diacetyl content. Under thermal stimulation, the color of fiber membrane gradually changed from blue (25 ℃) to red (70 ℃), and the transition temperature is 55 ℃. Corresponding, the maximum wavelength of visible light absorbed by the molecule is shifted from 640 nm to 545 nm.

      Effect of combined anti-dripping additive on properties of flame resistant polyester
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  15-21.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170906407
      Abstract ( 588 )   PDF (1350KB) ( 14 )   Save
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      In view of the melt-dripping problem for phosphorus-contatining flame retardant terephthalate (FRPET) during combustion, combined anti-dripping additive was prepared via combination of intumescent flame retardants (IFR) and polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). Then combined anti-dripping additive were melt blended into phosphorous-containing flame retardant polyester (FRPE) to obtain modified polyester samples. The thermal properties and flame retardant properties were characterized by means of differential scanning calorimetry, thermogravimetry, limiting oxygen index, horizontal burning test, micro combustion calorimeter (MCC) , cone calorimetry. The results showed that FRPET with 15% of combined anti-dripping additive  (mass ratio of IFR and PTFE is 1:2) can achieve the optimal flame retardancy. Combined anti-dripping additive system has obviously synergistic effect between IFR and PTFE to improve the dripping resistance. The limiting oxygen index value increases to 30% from 25% and the numbers of melt-drops fell to 21 from 46 in 1 min. The char residue at 700℃ increases by 68.77% compared with the control sample (FRPET). In additon, the total heat release and total smoke release decreased significantly according to the MCC and CONE tests.

      Preparation and properties of novel modified polyester
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  22-26.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb20171000105
      Abstract ( 673 )   PDF (2089KB) ( 18 )   Save
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      In order to study the spinnability and processing performance of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) modified with novel multifunctional clay material (QE powder), PET/QE blends were prepared by blending modification. Rheology and thermal properties as well as its fiber morphology of the blends were characterized by capillary rheometer, thermo-gravimetric analysis and scanning electron microscope, respectively. The results indicate that the appearance of QE powder degrades PET, and  dramatically weakens the flow resistance and non-Newtonian behavior of the blends melt. With the shear rate 900 s-1 considered, the blend with 1% QE powder shows 253% and 295% decrease on shear viscosity and shear stress values, respectively when compared with pure PET, and non-Newtonian index increases by 19.4%. The thermal degradation test and TG analysis show that QE powder has little effect on the thermal degradation property of PET, and only the initial thermal decomposition temperature of PET decreases by 3 ℃ when QE powder mass fraction is added to 2%. Moreover, core spinning method was used to prepare the modified fiber, the surface of which contains a large amount of OE powder, and dents exist on the partial region of the fiber surface.

      Structure and property of ducklings down
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  27-32.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180201306
      Abstract ( 751 )   PDF (8407KB) ( 24 )   Save
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      In order to achieve high value utilization of ducklings down, compared with the duck down, the chemical structure, microscopic morphology, thermal stability and warmth retention of ducklings down were studied by infrared spectroscopy, elemental analysis, X- ray diffraction, scanning electron microscopy, thermogravimetric analysis and flat panel heating apparatus. The results show that the duck down and ducklings down are mainly composed of C, N, O and S. The duck down contains a distinct characteriatic peak of mercapto, and the crystallijity is higher than that of  ducklings down. The number, the diameter and the length of the duck down branch are smaller than that of the ducklings down. The diameter, the length, the number of triangular node size,  the distance between the nodes, the size and number of the nodes, and the distance between the nodes are also larger than that of ducklings down. The thermal stability and warmth of duck down are better than those of ducklings down.

      Designing method of random fabric based on random lifting of heald frames
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  33-40.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170902708
      Abstract ( 577 )   PDF (8146KB) ( 29 )   Save
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      In order to investigate the weaving control method of fabric without repetitive weaving regular rule for varp and filling yarn, the concept of random fabric was proposed with random lifting of heald frames as the mechanism based on the binary expression of the lifting state of heald frames, the weaving control methods of random fabric were proposed, and warp and weft interweaving characteristics of different weaving control methods were analyzed. The random fabrics were simulated using fabric design software, and their weavability was discussed. The fabric samples were woven by a fabric sampling machine, the interception characteristics were verified. The results show that by the random control of the lift movement of heel frames, random fabrics can be woven into irregular and non-curculating. Real-time random control can be used and the methods of pre-generating weaving sequence can also be used when the random fabrics are woven. Put-back sampling and non-return sampling can be employing when generating randomized weaving sequence, which controls to weave non-limited and limited random fabric, respectively.  Warp floats and weft floats with different lengths are distributing randomly on the random fabric surface, and many protruding three-dimensional stripes appear along the weft direction of the fabric, showing good permeability and tear resistance to the fabric. The interlacing numbers of the heald frame have little difference when weaving randomly.

      In fluences of raw materials and fabric parameters on performance of anti-arc fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  41-45.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170902105
      Abstract ( 553 )   PDF (1139KB) ( 16 )   Save
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      In order to potimize the designs of anti-arc fabrics, the structures and parameters of three kinds of ante-arc fabrics were analyzed, and the extensibility, breathability, moisture permeability, flame retardant, thermal stability, thermal protection and arc protection performance were tested. The influencesof fabric parameters on comfort and protection properties were also investigated. The results show that the influence of raw materials on the protection properties is the most significant, and a smoldering phenomenon exists for fabrics prepared from flame retardant nitrile and aramid. The higher the aramid content is, the better the flame retardant and thermal stability of the fabric are. For single-layer anti-arc fabrics, when the tightness increases by 13%,thermal protective performance (TPP) and arc thermal perfprmance value ( ATPV) increases by 6% and 42%, respectively, but the comfort properties decline, and the breathability and the moisture permeability reduce by 63% and 22%, respectively. The double-layer structure effectively increases the value of ATPV and TPP of anti-arc fabrics, significantly for ATPV value, and the ATPV value of double layer is three times greater than that of single layer fabrics, but comfort properties reduce weakly, and breathability and moisture permeability reduce by 4 % and 7% , respectively.

      Single component textile identification based on continuous projection algorithm and least squares support vector machine
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  46-51.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170804006
      Abstract ( 683 )   PDF (1803KB) ( 10 )   Save
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      Aiming at problems that conventional textile testing is influenced by the senses and mental status of testers, the detection results of the same sample are different from different testers, and fiber is damaged by most conventional detection methods, a method for identifying and classifying eight kinds of single component textile materials were designed based on hyperspectral imaging technology.  After the pretreatment of the hyperspectral data of the textile, the characteristic wavelengths of the various textile materials were extracted by continuous projection algorithm. The original 288 wavelength data in 920-2500 nm were compressed to 5-7(the data is compressed to 1.74% -2.43%). The least squares support vector machines are used to establish two classifiers for each kind of textile, and the extracted characteristic wavelengths were imported into the corresponding classifiers. Finally, the test samples were classified and identified. The experimental results show that 640 experimental samples are identifide by two kinds of classifiers. Hyperspectral imaging technology can be applied to the material identification of cotton,polyester, polyethylene, wool, polyvinyl chloride, nylon, linen and silk.

      Drying eperiment and kinetics of wetted fabrics exposed to thermal radiation
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  52-57.  doi:10.13475/.j.fzxb.20171000606
      Abstract ( 770 )   PDF (1409KB) ( 17 )   Save
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      In order to investigate the moisture transfer characteristics of moisture in fabrics in low-level radiant heat exposures, the evaporation process of moisture in fabrics and the influence of moisture evaporatio on the thermal insulation performance of fabrics were analyzed by using drying theoretical method and thermal infrared imager. The results indicate that the drying process of fabric can be divided into three stages: the initial heating stage, in which drying velocity and the temperature increase rapidly and the moisture content decreased slowly; the intermediate stage, in which the drying velocity keeps stable and the temperature increased slowly, while the moisture content decreases rapidly; and the final stage, in which the drying velocity slows down and the moisture content decreases slowly. The fabrics with higher moisture has better thermal insulation performance, but when the moisture content is lower than 20%, the thermal insulation performance decreases rapidly, causing rapid increase of the surface temperature of the fabric surface. The migration of moisture in fabrics was analyzed by fitting data such as moisture drying velocity, three classic drying kinetics models including Page, Newton and Henderson were adopted to analyze the migration of moisture in fabrics. The results show that the dynamic drying process of fabrics in low-level radiant heat exposures can be described mathematically by Page equation.

      Permeability of glass fiber fabrics under shear deformation
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  58-62.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170702906
      Abstract ( 808 )   PDF (3516KB) ( 10 )   Save
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      In order to study the influence of shear deformation of the fabric on the permeability of fiber reinforced material, the apparent permeability of glass fiber fabric preform was tested by vacuum infusion molding process. The results indicated that shear deformation reduces the permeability of preform. For twill fabric, different shear directions make the permeability of fiber reinforced material different. When the shear direction does not coincide with the twill line direction, the permeability of fabrics sheared by 10° is about 26% higher. Different fabric weave differs significantly in permeability. In general, the permeability of fiber reinforced material decreases as shearing angle increases. The permeability of fabric declines about 50% on average as its shearing angle goes up to 30°. However, for plain weave fabric, the permeability of fabric being sheared by 10°rises slightly. The shear deformation causes change of the overall permeability of fabric, and the shape of the flow front varies gradually from a straight line parallel to the weft yarn to an inclined straight line.

      Process and application of full-forming knitting with four-needle bed
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  63-70.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170708408
      Abstract ( 918 )   PDF (8654KB) ( 4 )   Save
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      In order to study the forming principle, forming method and the corresponding full-forming product design method of four-needle bed computerized flat knitting machine,  detailed analysis of the forming method of unequal length knitting, lead back, narrowing and widening, pleat, translational docking and other knitting technology in tubular knitting was carried out by means of a full-forming computerized flat knitting machine combined with DS-ONE APPEX 3 design system. The knitting process was applied in full-forming sleeveless dress. The results show that when the rear collar strip of the full-forming garment is spliced with the rear collar arc, the knitting ratio can be determined according to the difference between transverse density of the rear collar arc and the longitudinal density of the rear collar strip. During non-tubular knitting kicking yarn feeder back is used to solve the technical problems of the influence of the yarn feeder parking position and yarn feeding of the yarn feeder on needle turning. When knitting tubular fabric with large difference between the stitch numbers of front and rear needle beds, needle turning is needed to move the stitch to the needle bed with a small number of stitches, so that the knitting width of the front and rear needle beds is consistant.

      Supercritical carbon dioxide extraction and bacterial resistance of flavones from apocynum venetum bast fiber
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  71-76.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170403207
      Abstract ( 676 )   PDF (1324KB) ( 3 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problem of the waste of flavones compounds in apocynum venetum bast fiber in conventional chemical degumming process, flavones from apocynum venetum bast fiber before degumming were extracted with supercritical carbon dioxide. The influence of cosolvent content, temperature, pressure and time on the extraction of flavones was investigated. Then the extracted solution was subjected to high performance liquid chromatographic analysis and antibacterial experiments. The results show that cosolvent mainly influences the polarity of supercritical fluid, and with the increase of solvent content, the polarity of the supercritical fluid increases the extraction rate. If the cosolvent content is too high, excessive water may cause the extraction pipeline blockate, which will decrease the extraction efficiency. Under the conditions of 45 °C and 20 MPa, the extraction rate of flavonoids is higher. Both of the increase and decrease of pressure and temperature will influence the extraction dfficiency of flavonoids. With the increase of the flow rate of supercritical carbon dioxide, the extraction rate of flavonoids increased gradually, but the requirement for equipment is high. Moreover, flavones compounds in apocynum venetum bast fiber have good antibacterial effect, which endues apocynum venetum bast fiber with good antibacterial performance.

      Color difference measurement of dyed fabrics using digital camera 
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  77-82.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170606406
      Abstract ( 636 )   PDF (1377KB) ( 8 )   Save
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      Aiming at solving single and expensive peoblem of current color measurement equipment, the feasibility of the prediction of the difference in fabric color difference measurement using a digital camera were studied. First, the self-designed image acquisition system with a digital camera were used to capture sample images. Secondly, the original RCB response information was extracted from RAW format image. Finally, a non-linear regression model between original RCB response information and CIE L*a*b* was used to measure the sample color. Then, the difference of fabric color difference was predicted. The experiment results of 480 color card samples shows that the number of parameters of the nonlinear regression model constructed is not as good as possible, and its validity depends on the specific parameters selected. The model was also applied to CNCS textile color card and dyed fabric, showing that the average color difference errors are 1.16 and 1.34, respectively, which is close to the results of DigiEye with a high consistency. The regression model designed in this paper has good feasibility in the prediction and evaluation of fabric color difference.

      Enhancement on anaerobic biological decolorization of azo dyes wastewater
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  83-87.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170802405
      Abstract ( 625 )   PDF (3021KB) ( 7 )   Save
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      Aiming at the difficult biodegradation of azo dyes wastewater, comparative experimental study on anaerobic biological decolorization of azo dyes was carried out by comparing the influences of adding different concentrations of electron donors (glucose) and redox mediators (RM) anthraquinone-2, 6-disulphonic acid disodium salt and activated carbon on the anaerobic biological decolorationof azo dyes so as to explore conditions enhancing the anaerobic decoloration of azo dyes. The results indicated that increasing concentrations of the electron donor or the RM can effectively strengthen the anaerobic decolorization of azo dyes wastewater. The decolorization rates up to 53.35%, 34.59% and 35.26% can be achieved with dosage of glucose, anthraquinone-2, 6-disulphonic acid disodium salt and activated carbon for 300 mg/L, 200 mmol/L and 0.6g/L, respectively. When the glucose is added, the decolorization rate is 1.47%/h at 0~24 h, and the decolorization efficiency at 36 h is 46.49%. When the anthraquinone-2, 6-disulphonic acid disodium salt is added, the decolorization rate is 1.03%/h at 0~12 h, and the decolorization efficiency at 60 h is 33.30%. When the activated carbon is added, the decolorization rate is 0.79%/h at 0~30 h, and the decolorization efficiency at 60 h is 33.65%.

      Preparation and properties of superhydrophobic conductive polyethylene terephthalate fabrics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  88-94.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170904408
      Abstract ( 884 )   PDF (5425KB) ( 16 )   Save
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      In order to endue fabrics with both hydrophobic and conductive properties, washing durable superhydrophobic electrically conductive polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fabrics were prepared by performing conductive finishing on the fabrics with self-prepared carbon black (CCB) hybrid homogenous polyestersizing agent, then constructing a micro/nano rough structure on the surface of the conductive fabrics by solvent induced crystallization (SINC) , and finally modifying with methyltrichlorosilane (MTS). The influence of the PET and CCB contents and the SINC treatment conditions on the conductive and hydrophobic properties of the fabrics were investigated, and the conductivity, wettability and washing durability and the surface microscopic morphology and crystallization characteristics of the modified fabric were characterized by field emission scanning electron microscope, differential scanning calorimeter, X-ray diffraction instrument and contact angle measurement instrument. The results indicate that the prepared superhydrophobic conductive PET fabrics have the surface resistivity of 102~103 Ω orders of magnitude and the water contact angle(WCA) greater than 150°. After ultrasonic washing for 12 h, the order of magnitude in the surface resistivity of fabrics have no change and the WCA is no less than 140°.

      Interpretation of new ISO standard about detection of banned azo colorants
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  95-99.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170902505
      Abstract ( 590 )   PDF (2075KB) ( 13 )   Save
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      The latest standard ISO 14362-1:2017 “Textiles Methods for Determination of Certain Aromatic Amines Derived from Azo Colorants Part 1:Detection of the Use of Certain Azo Colorants Accessible with and without Extracting the Fibers”  was published in Feburary, 2017. By compared the new standard and old one, changes of contents were summarized in this pape. Meanwhile, in order to analyse the impacts on the test results, the contrast experiment was carried out with different fabric samples in accordance with the new and old standard, which including three major factors of extraction, extraction time and treatment mode of incomplete decoloration samples. Experiments results show that xylene is used in new standard for extraction, a part of samples contain more impurities interfering the testing of o-toluidine. The extraction time increases for the difficult decolorized samples avoiding incomplete decloloration of the sample. For easily decolorized samples, the decolorization can be  stopped when the decolorizing is finished, which is not limited by fixed time. The test results increased is increased by 65.8% with incomplete but obvious decoloration.

      Comprehensive evaluation of thermal protection and comfort of outer fabrics of firefighter protective clothing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  100-104.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170903705
      Abstract ( 806 )   PDF (1279KB) ( 13 )   Save
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      In order to ensure both thermal protection performance and thermal wet comfort performance of the firefighter protective clothing, 7 kinds of outer fabrics for firefighter protecive clothing were selected for the study. Each single index of thermal protective performance and comfortable performance related indicators of the fabrics were tested, and the influences of factors such as fabric material and performance parameters on thermal protection performance and comfort performance were analyzed, and its influence law was expounded. A fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method was used to evaluate the thermal protection performance and comfort performance of the fabrics. The results show that the thermal protection performance of the fabric is related to the composition, thickness and compactness of the fabric, and the comfort performance is mainly related to the fabric density and compactness as well as thickness and gram weight of the fabric. Among the seven kinds of fabrics tested, aramid ante-static fabric is the best in comprehensive performance, while the performance of acrylic fiber/cotton blended peotective fabric is the poorest.

      In fluence of sleeveless fitted cheongsam waist dart distribution on apparel modeling
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  105-109.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171000705
      Abstract ( 1256 )   PDF (1548KB) ( 23 )   Save
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      In order to quantitatively analyze the influence of cheongsam structure design on the dart distribution, sleeveless fitted cheongsam was selected as specimens, three different amount allocation schemes were designed, and cheongsam with the same size was made. A 3-D scanner was used to measure the three garments and the mannequin,and three evaluation parameters were acquired by angle sampling, including the radial distance between the mannequin and the garments at waist cross section the radial distance between the bust and waist cross section of the garments and with the same angle, sample bust waist two attachment waist with horizontal plane angle. By analyzing and comparing the distribution trend, average and standard deviation expounds the results show that the effect of waist reduction is focused on three samples, and by comprehensive evaluation, the experimental foundation sample style is the optimized waist allocation scheme.

      Collar-placket shape and knotting way of modern folk children's coat and jacket
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  110-116.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171001807
      Abstract ( 778 )   PDF (3638KB) ( 54 )   Save
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      In order to study the shape characteristics and evolutio trend of modern children's coat and jacket including collars and knots, 127 children's coats and jackets were chosen from Donghua University Costume Museum, Jiangnan University Folk Costumes Biography museum and Shanghai Yi Fengtang Museum to measure the size of each part. These data were subjected to image data reduction by using the clothing computer aided design and Adobe Illustrator, and part of the collars and placket detail parts of the structure were extracted for analysis. The results show that modern follk children's coats and jackets according to the shape is divided into traditional Chinese style and Chinese and Western combined style. Among them, the collar, the placket and the knotting way of the traditional Chinese style jackets are mainly manifested as band collar, cross collar, front opening, placket, rope, interlocking button and detachable button. Chinese and Western style children's jackets and coats are mainly manifest as stand collar, overlapping placket and buttonhole button. Meanwhile, the overall development direction trends to Chinese and Western integration, facilitation and diversification.

      Emotion classification of necktie pattern based on convolution neural network
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  117-123.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170906607
      Abstract ( 962 )   PDF (5916KB) ( 19 )   Save
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      In order to avoid disadvantages of traditional manual features and local features that cannot characterize or quantify emotional features of images comprehensively and accurately, an method of fabric images emotion classification based on convolution neural network was proposed for evaluating the necktie pattern, and this method combined manual aesthetic features. This method is helpful for clothing design, clothing selection, etc. First, emotional evaluation of necktie pattern was processed, then an emotional sample library of necktie pattern images was established. We extracted manual emotional features such as image saturation and texture combined with the pixel values of sample images as the input data of the convolution neural network. An emotion classification model of convolution neural network was built, and the network structure and parameters were determined by experiments. We used 2 000 images as training samples to train the neural network. 1 000 test samples were input to the convolution neural network, and emotional classification of the images was evaluated automatically through our models. Experiment results showed that our method achieves classification accuracy of 89.7%, which is a greater improvement than the traditional methods based on manual features, and better than other convolution neural networks models with popular network structures.

      Comprehensive performance of auxiliary nozzle of air-jet loom based on Fluent
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  124-129.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170905606
      Abstract ( 664 )   PDF (2593KB) ( 13 )   Save
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      In order to improve the weft insertion performance of the air-jet loom and reducing the energy consumption, the structures and parameters of the auxiliary nozzle were optimized. By numerical simulatio analysis, using Fouent software, the influence of different sructures and parameters of the auxiliary nozzle on airflow velocity, velocity attenuation and air consumption at the outlet of the auxiliary nozzle were investigated. A method for evaluating the comprehensive comparison of the auxiliary nozzle was proposed to obtain an auxiliary nozzle with good injection performance and low air consumption. The results show that the injection performance of the auxiliary nozzle with the center annular distribution mode is better than that with the annular distribution. The auxiliary nozzle of same orifice number with the center annular distribution has the outlet airflow velocity decreasing with the decrease of the center orifice diameter. Under the same orifice area, air consumption of the auxiliary nozzle decreases gradually with the increase of nozzle oridice number, and the air consumption of 8 K04 auxiliary nozzle is minimum. It is found that the comprehensive performance of 7 K04 auxiliary nozzle is the best with high airflow velocity and low air consumption. The comprehensive performance of 5 K03, 6 K05,7 K04 and 8 K04 auxiliary nozzles are better than that of single circular orifice auxiliary nozzle.

      Modeling and simulation of transverse motion error of guide bar shogging system of warp knitting machine
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  130-137.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171105708
      Abstract ( 690 )   PDF (1467KB) ( 15 )   Save
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      In order to investigate the effects of mechanical structure on the transverse motion error of guide bar shogging system, firstly, the transverse motion error was obtained by the rigid-flexible coupling dynamic model by Ansys and ADAMS software, considering the axial stiffness of ball screw, the axial and radial stiffness of angular contact ball bearings, the radial stiffness of linear bearings and guide bushings calculated by Hertz contact theory, and the flexibility of the guide bar, spherical hindge and special shape connection. Then, the effects of the mass and stiffness on the transverse motion errors of the guide bar shogging systems driven with the reinforcement and driven by the center of gravity were investigated. The results show that the transverse motion errors are produced mainly by the bending deformation of guide bar and the special shape connection caused by deflection moment and the compressive deformation of the guide bar and the spherical hinge caused by axial thrust, and the transverse motion error can be reduced by decreasing the mass and increasing the stiffness of the guide bar. Driven by the center of gravity can reduce the deflection moment, thereby reduce the requirement of the stiffness of the guide bar.

      Noise source identification of carpet tufting machine based on empirical mode decomposition and energy characteristics
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  138-143.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170904306
      Abstract ( 649 )   PDF (3549KB) ( 7 )   Save
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      In order to identify and locate the main noise source of carpet tufting machines, a noise source identification method based on empirical mode decomposition (EMD) and energy characteristics of discrete wavelet transform (DWY) was proposed. Firstly, EMD was used to decompose the noise signal of a carpet tufting machine into a plurality of intrinsic mode functions. According to the correlation coefficients, the false component were removed for reconstructing the noise signal. Secondly, DWT was used to process the reconstructed signal by using db20 wavelet, and the energy ratio of each component was calculated. Then the components with larger energy ratio were extracted, and time-frequency characteristics thereof were analyzed. Finally, the vibration signals of the main components of a carpet tufting machine were measured with a fiber laser vibrometer. The locations os main noise sources were obtained by comparing analysis.  The results show that this method can effectively identify and locate the main noise source of a carpet tufting machine.

      Detection and evaluation on yarn hairiness of blackboard with image processing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  144-149.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170705406
      Abstract ( 827 )   PDF (2781KB) ( 12 )   Save
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      Aiming at the low efficiency and subjectivity of the visual observation of yarn hairiness of blackboard, a new hairiness detection method based on image processing was proposed. Image was acquired by the scanner. Then, the image was processed by median filtering, binaryzation, morphological operation and local threshold to obtain the blackboard hairiness images, and the number of hairy fiber pixels were counted. In addition, M Index was proposed to evaluate yarn hairiness on blackboard. The experiments were carried out by using different types of yarn material, yarn density and spinning system. The hairiness M Index of 18 kinds of yarns were measured. The regression model was established with the H value tested by a Uster tester, and the correlation coefficient between them is 0.975.The verification results of six kinds of yarn samples show that the hairiness detection method proposed in this paper can be used to extract the whole blackboard yarn hairiness relatively completely, and the M Index can assess the quality of blackboard yarn hairiness, with high algorithm accuracy and good reliability.

      Extract of image elements for blue calico based on contour fitting
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  150-157.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171007908
      Abstract ( 714 )   PDF (10873KB) ( 4 )   Save
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      In view of the problem of digital inheritance and innovation for blue calico, a method to extract image elements for blue calico based on contour fitting was presented. These image elements were the material foundation of blue calico to design and innovation. Firstly, the acquired blue calico digital images were preprocessed, including graying, denoising and binarization, to obtain a binary image reflecting the features of the image elements. Secondly, the initial contours of image elements were obtained by using contour tracking method, and the contours were fitted and optimized to get the ideal contours of image elements. Finally, the image elements of the blue calico were extracted and the sub images of image elements were generated, and they can be accessed independently. The experimental results show that using the evaluation indexes based on the area and contour pixels, the extracted image elements are accurate, and the contours are smooth and complete. More effective contours of image elements and execution efficiency are obtained than the other contour extraction methods.

      Influence factors of helpfulness of online review on garment product
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  158-163.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb. 20170905506
      Abstract ( 496 )   PDF (914KB) ( 23 )   Save
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      In order to improve the efficiency of the apparel E-commerce review system, by using the situational experiment research method, two independent variables of online review valence and content attribute as well as the adjustment variable of online sale mode were analyzed, and the influence factors of helpfulness of apparel online review and purchase intention from the review searcher's point of view were detected. The results show that online review valence has significant impact on helpfulness and purchase intention, and online review content attribute influences purchase intention. In the presale mode, consumers' perception of the helpfulness of reviews is more influenced by negative review than positive review. And in the normal sale mode, consumer’s perceived helpfulness is more likely to be influenced by product-attribute review than service-attribute review. When it comes to reading garment product-attribute review, negative review is more important than positive reviews on purchase decisions.

      Comprehensive evaluation model of apparel retailing service quality perception under C2C environment
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  164-170.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170900607
      Abstract ( 763 )   PDF (947KB) ( 26 )   Save
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      In order to analyze the main factors of service quality evaluation by customers of C2C online apparel shopping and to construct the evaluation model, using the classical eTailQ, E-S-Qual service quality model as the theoretical framework and tbased on he Chinese consumers’ perspective and the characteristics of apparel retailing in C2C environment, an evaluation scale was designed. By means of focus group interview, questionnaire survey and data analysis, the evaluation model of apparel retailing service quality was constructed, including the five dimensions of performance, privacy, efficiency, hedonic, compensation and 18 measurement indicators. The results of confirmatory factor analysis show that the model has good reliability and validity, and that the eTailQ and E-S-Qual model are not applicable in China's C2C trading environment. The prediction capability of dimensions on service quality by empirical methods were analyzed. The results show that the performance and hedonic dimensions are the most significant predictors of service quality, efficiency and compensatory dimensions are secondary predictors, and the privacy dimension has no significant predictability on service quality.

      Research progress in priparation of nano silver and its application in textiles
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  171-178.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171000408
      Abstract ( 966 )   PDF (998KB) ( 14 )   Save
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      In order to better apply nano silver to the functional finishing of textiles, the preparation methods of nano silver and the characteristics of various methods to obtain nano silver in recent years are systematically introduced. The preparation methods mainly including liquid chemical reduction, photochemical synthesis, electrochemical synthesis, biosynthesis and microwave assisted method. At the same time, the research progress of nano silver in the field of textiles is reviewed, when nano silver were utilized in the textiles, it can endow textile with antibacterial, UV protection, self- cleaning, hydrophobicity, electromagnetic shielding and antistatic properties, and the mechanism of nano silver to realize these functions is elaborated in detail in order to promoting the industrialization development of nano silver in the field of multifunctional textiles. Finally, the problems existing in the application of nano silver on textiles are further analyzed and summarized, and the prospect of its application in textiles is forecasted.

      Research progress on sweating rate distribution of human body
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2018, 39(08):  179-184.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170704806
      Abstract ( 592 )   PDF (925KB) ( 17 )   Save
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      In order to evaluate the manifestations and parameters of latent heat during the regulation of human thermal comfort comprehensively and accruately, the research and application of human skin sweating rate at home and abroad baesd on two methods of sensible sweating and insensible sweating was reviewed. The measurement methods and local and total sweating rate in different environments were introduced. The ventilated sweat capsules and absorbent sweat patch technique were used commonly, and no significant difference exists between the results test by the two ways when the human body movement reaches a stable condition. The area of the highest sweating rate is the trunk, the highest rate of non-primary sweating rate is the hands and feet. The local non-primary sweat rate range is from 0.02 to 0.07 mg/(cm2?min). The distribution characteristics of the local body sweating rate has an instructive role in the design of the clothing and the skin design of the thermal manikin.