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Table of Content

    15 January 2019, Volume 40 Issue 01
    • Fiber Materials
      Preparation and properties of amphiphobic polyacrylonitrile electrospun nanofiber films
      TONG Wei, FANG Ruxian, LI Jiawei, YI Lingmin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  1-8.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180101308
      Abstract ( 873 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (2902KB) ( 253 )   Save
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      In order to prepare amphiphobic fiber materials with good wear resistance for oil/water or oil/oil separation, amphiphobic polyacrylonitrile (PAN) nanofiber materials were prepared by using PAN electrospun nanofibers as the substrate, and dopamine (DA) and tridecafluorooctyltriethoxy-silane (G617) as the surface treatment agent. The effects of various electrospinning process factors, DA and G617 content on the surface morphology and hydrophobic/oleophobic properties of PAN electrospun films were investigated by scanning electron microscopy, contact angle measuring instrument, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy and so on. The results show that when the mass ratio of PAN in spinning solution is 13.8% and the spinning voltage is 18 kV, the fiber morphology is the best. And the ethylene glycol contact angle, the toluene contact angle, the water contact angle and the salad oil contact angle of the modified PAN electrospun films can be 135.1°, 0°, 141.9° and 131.2°, respectively. Moreover, the water or salad oil contact angle of the modified PAN electrospun films can be larger than 125° after 20 cycles of abrasion test. The results show that the modified PAN electrospun films exhibit good properties in the separation of water/toluene, toluene/ethylene glycol and toluene-water emulsion.

      Influence of organic onium salt doping on spectrum blue-shift of rare earth aluminate strontium luminesent fiber
      LI Jing, ZHU Ya’nan, YU Yuan, GE Mingqiao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  9-13.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180203905
      Abstract ( 587 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1552KB) ( 75 )   Save
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      In order to solve single-light color for the rare-earth strontium aluminate luminescent fiber, the blue-light luminesent fiber doped with organic onium salt was prepared by combining photo-initiating material triaryl sulfonium hexafluoroantimonate (THFS) and rare earth-activated alkaline earth strontium aluminate luminescent materials by microwave calcination, and melt blend spinning using PP as matrix. Moreover, the influence of the ratio of the raw materials, melting temperature, excitation conditions and other factors on the spectral performance of the fiber was investigated. The results show that when the content of THFS reaches 0.5%, the emission spectrum moves toward the shortwave and the spectrum shifts blue. The change of the luminescent material has no effect on the emission peak of the luminescent fiber, and the effect of light blue shift is not obvious. As the excitation wavelength is weakened, the emission wavelength of the luminescent fiber moves toward the short wavelength, and its emission peak produces blue shift.

      Preparation and properties of modified polytetrafluoroethylene fiber by oxidation self-polymerization of dopamine
      JIA Huiying, JIANG Zhiqing, MA Jianwei, JIANG Liang, CHEN Shaojuan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  14-18.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180301705
      Abstract ( 923 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (1639KB) ( 161 )   Save
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      In order to improve the surface performance in hydrophilicity of polytetrafluoroethylene fibers , dopamine was employed to modify polytetrafluoroethylene fibers by oxidation self-polymerization. The effect of different treatment time for modifying polytetrafluoroethylene fibers was analyzed. Scanning electron microscopy, atomic force microscopy, Fourier transform infrared spectrometer and water contact angle (WCA) tester were employed to analyze the surface morphology and the chemical structures of the modified polytetrafluoroethylene fibers. The binding fastness of the fibers to dopamine was analyzed by testing the elution absorbance of the modified fibers in different solutions.The results show that a dense layer of polydopamine is formed on polytetrafluoroethylene fibers with the increase in modification time, and the WCA decreases gradually from 120° to the platform of 69° when the treatment time is up to 24 h. The modified polytetrafluoroethylene fibers introduces hydrophilic groups such as —COOH and —NH2, and the hydrophilicity of the fibers are improved obviously. The binding fastness between fiber and polydopamine is stable.

      Influence of wet/heat treatment on structure and properties of dog hair
      LIU Bingqian, SHENG Dan, GONG Xiaobao, CAO Genyang, ZHANG Tao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  19-25.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180201607
      Abstract ( 732 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1994KB) ( 116 )   Save
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      In order to better develop and utilize the resources of dog hair, the influences of wet / heat treatment on the structure and properties of dog hair were studied. The dog hair were subjected to heat and wet treatment, respectively, then the fibers were tested by single fiber universal tester, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction, thermal analyzer, thermal insulation tester and scanning electron microscopy. The results show that the crimp ratio of dog hair decreases after wet treatment, while that of the fiber increases after heat treatment. Heat treatment has much heavier harm to the surface of that fiber than wet treatment, and the mechanical properties of the dog hair are significantly worse after heat treatment. The dog hair has the infrared characteristics of protein fiber, and both of the wet treatment and heat treatment have no obvious influence on its molecular structure, but the secondary structure is affected. The crystallization indexes of samples after wet treatment and heat treatment decrease from 56.87% of untreated sample to 46.21% and 45.92%, respectively, and the heat stability decreases. In addition, the hollow ratio of the wet treated dog hair is decreased obviously and the warm retention ratio is reduced accordingly. However, the hollow ratio of the fibers after heat treatment increases, and the warm retention ratio increases to 96.88%.

      Evaluation on comprehesive physical properties of special animal fibers based on gray clustering
      XING Lijuan, LIU Xinjin, SU Xuzhong, CAO Xiuming
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  26-31.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171105306
      Abstract ( 524 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1789KB) ( 57 )   Save
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      In order to explore the comprehensive physical properties of special animal fibers, the length, fineness, strength, curl and friction of nine kinds of animal fibers were tested in the same environment with the camel hair, the cashmere and the yakwool as the research objects. The gray clustering analysis method was used to evaluate the comprehensive physical properties of special animal fibers. The white cashmere, yellow camel hair and black yakwool were selected, and the properties of 14.29 tex and 20.83 tex yarns were spun by four-rollers compact spinning with lattice apron and comparative analysis. The results showed that white cashmere and camel hair have the best physical properties. The physical properties of white cashmere are the second; and the purple cashmere, blue yakwool, black yakwool, blue cashmere and bleached yakwool are the worst. In the different thickness of yarns spun by four-rollers compact spinning, the overall performance of white cashmere yarns is the best, the yellow camel hair is the second, and the black yakwool are the worst. The results are consistent with the comprehensive physical properties of the fibers evaluated by gray clustering analysis.

      Textile Engineering
      Simulation and analysis of bave partition produced by dropping end based on combinatorics
      HUANG Jiwei, NING Wan'e, ZHANG Feng, ZUO Baoqi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  32-39.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171206308
      Abstract ( 363 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (2060KB) ( 213 )   Save
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      In order to simulate the phenomenon that the merger of raw silk participated by bave in the forms of multiple segments and multiple times, and to provide reliable data about fineness sequence of filament for reeling simulation using a computer, based on the model of discrete dropping point of reeling and combinatorial theory, all subsets of bave dropping end point set were acquired, then a subset was corresponded to a bave dropping end partition modes, and the probability of artition model of dropping ends was calculated. The inverse transformation sampling method of an enumerated random variable distribution was employed to randomly sample partition models of dropping ends, making the simulation of partition dropping ends available. The simulation method is proved to be correct by means of statistical analysis for all dropping end patterns of bave and 100 million times partition simulation for dropping ends. Further, the dropping ends of 20 thousand of bave, with length in accordance with normal distribution, were simulated, confirming the accordance of the results with the distribution of the non-broken filament length of bave.

      Contact spinning based on simplified embeddable and locatable system and properties of spun ramie yarn
      FU Chiyu, WANG Cancan, HE Mantang, XIA Zhigang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  40-45.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180102006
      Abstract ( 465 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (2155KB) ( 202 )   Save
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      In order to solve the high rigidity and excessive hairiness of ramie fiber products and operation inconvenience of four-components embeddable and locatable spinning (ELS), a contact spinning based on simplified embeddable and locatable system was provided by simplifiying embeddable components and adding sponge contact device during twisting part. Yarn formation mechanisms were theoretically analyzed for the S-ELS, dry contact S-ELS, and wet contact S-ELS. By modification on ring spinning frame, the ramie yarns spun by different methods were compared. The results show that compared with the S-ELS and dry contact spinning for S-ELS, wet contact spinning of S-ELS can online soften the ramie fibers to facilitate fiber twisting and wrapping, producing the optimum qualified ramie yarns with the lowest hairiness and the highest strength.

      Principle and properties of segment colored yarn spun by three-channel digital ring spinning
      GU Yan, XUE Yuan, YANG Ruihua, GAO Weidong, LIU Yuexing, ZHANG Guoqing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  46-51.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180305506
      Abstract ( 790 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (2108KB) ( 64 )   Save
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      In view of the fact that the color changes of the segment yarn at home and abroad is relatively single, and the production process cannot achieve accurate control of the color and length of the segment colo, a digital spinning technology was used for the digital control on the change of fiber composition ratio in the segmentation time, the diversification and length controllability of the color change on the segment length of the segment color yarn. The spinning mechanism of the three-channel digital ring spinning was proposed, taking the combination of the three rovings of magenta, yellow, and blue combined in a sequential manner as an example. A mathematical model of CMY three basis color with equal gradient changes was designed. Photoshop software was used to express the color matrix. The color of the segment color yarn was selected on the basis of the mixed color matrix, and the appearance model of tri-color, six-color, seven-color segment colored yarn were drawn. The results show that the segment colored yarn with optimum evenness and strength could be spun by adjusting spinning speed, twist factor, period length of segment color and color fiber blending ratio.

      Prediction of cotton yarn quality based on four-layer BP neural network
      ZHA Liugen, XIE Chunping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  52-56.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180305606
      Abstract ( 806 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (1618KB) ( 106 )   Save
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      In order to further improve the accuracy and training speed of the BP neural network in yarn quality prediction, a four-layer BP neural network with double hidden layers was proposed for cotton yarn quality prediction on the basis of the conventional three-layer BP neural network model of single hidden layer. By constructing the model of the breaking strength of pure cotton yarn and the CV model of yarn levelness, a three-layer BP neural network and a four-layer BP neural network were designed under each model, and the final training and simulation were performed using MatLab. In order to ensure the comparability of the final results, the training parameters of the two network models and the data used are consistent. The experimental results show that under the fracture strength model, the maximum number of training steps in the four-layer network compared to the three-layer network is reduced from 740 to 533, and the relative average error decreases from 9.6% to 7.5%. In the yarn levelness CV value model under the four-layer network, compared with the three-layer network, the maximum number of training steps decreases from 929 to 604, and the relative average error decreases from 10.2% to 8.3%.

      Preparation and bending rigidness of twisted metal yarn
      XU Haiyan, CHEN Nanliang, JIANG Jinhua, SHAO Guangwei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  57-61.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180306905
      Abstract ( 776 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (1533KB) ( 79 )   Save
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      In ordert decrease the bending rigidness of metal yarns with high strength, high modulus and low elongation for knitting, metal multifilaments with different fineness were twisted by rotor spinning machine and tubular strander. The morphologies of yarns by different twisting methods were observed, and the bending rigidness of monofilaments and multifilaments were measured. It was concluded that compared with rotor spun metal yarns, the yarns twisted by tubular strander has a better morphology. If a yarn fineness is given, the finer the monofilament is, and the smaller the bending rigidness is. Thus, the rigid yarns can be twisted by tubular strander, and bending rigidness of rigid yarns can be decreased by using finer monofilaments.

      Image recognition algorithm based on yarn hairiness compensation and adaptive median filter
      SUN Qiaoyan, CHEN Xiangguang, LIU Meina, SUN Yumei, XIN Binjie
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  62-66.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180300706
      Abstract ( 575 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (2148KB) ( 89 )   Save
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      In order to solve the influence of yarn hairiness on image recognition of yarn body in the process of yarn parameter recognition and calculation,an algorithm based on gray scale compensation and adaptive median filtering was proposed. R data were used to binarize the RGB image collected by the image scanner into a grayscale image. The image of the black yarn with white background was recognized according to the change of the vertical gray value in the feather form and then compensated by 3 layer push from small to large. The image of the white yarn with black background was recognized and the background gray value was compensated according to the gray value of the feather pixel. Each of the two compensated images were subjected adaptive median filtering (ANF) with a maximum window smaller than 11.The results of MatLab simulation show that the algorithm can recognize and compensate some pixels of yarn hairiness quickly and acquire clear main yarn image. The results can meet the requirements of accuracy.

      Study on relationship between capillary characteristics and moisture permeability of wool fabrics
      ZHANG Wenjuan, JI Feng, ZHANG Ruiyun, ZHAO Xiaojie, WANG Ni, WANG Junli, ZHANG Jianxiang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  67-72.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180303206
      Abstract ( 680 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (1794KB) ( 178 )   Save
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      In order to investigate on the influence mechanism of the capillary structure on moisture permeability of wool fabrics, empirical models describing the relationship between capillary characteristics and moisture permeability of wool fabrics were built. Three indices of volume porosity, surface porosity and the average pore size were adopted to describe capillary characteristics of wool fabrics from different aspects. And the index of wet resistance was used to represent the moisture permeability of fabrics. For twenty-four types of wool fabric samples, the capillary characteristic indices were measured as well as wet resistance. Finally, polynomial regression analysis was conducted between each capillary characteristic index and the wet resistance index. The obtained empirical relationship curves present similar tendencies. The indices of volume porosity, surface porosity and the average pore size present nonlinear correlations with wet resistance to a certain extent respectively. Along with the growth of each capillary index, the wet resistance first shows positive correlation and then negative correlation. That is, the wet resistance reaches a maximum value in certain regions. For the volume porosity-wet resistance relation curve, the wet resistance reaches maximum when the volume porosity is about 60%. The surface porosity-wet resistance relationship gets clear when surface porosity rises beyond 1.5%, and at about 3% of surface porosity, the wet resistance reaches maximum. Similarly, the wet resistance stops increasing as the average pore size arises to about 45 μm.

      Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals
      Influence of alkali treatment on wicking effect and strength of profiled polyester yarn
      ZHANG Lin, WU Hailiang, SHEN Yanqin, MAO Ningtao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  73-78.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180106806
      Abstract ( 886 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (2009KB) ( 169 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problem that NaOH could damage the structure of polyester fiber and affect the wicking effect, wettability, strength and elongation properties of profiled polyester fiber, and fast drying and cool properties, scanning electro microscopy was adopted to characterize the structure of the fiber before and after NaOH treatment. The influencing factors of wicking effect was analyzed and the influences of alkali concentration on wicking effect, wettability, strength and elongation properties were studied. The results show that the cross section of profiled polyester fiber is cross shaped. Four trenches along the longitudinal direction of the fiber play the capillary role and provide a channel for the migration of moisture. Therefore, the profiled polyester fiber and yarn have good wicking effect. Sodium hydroxide can effectively remove the oligomers from profiled polyester fibers, and the wicking effect of profiled polyester yarns is improved significantly when the concentration of alkali is about 4%. It is found that profiled polyester yarns treated by NaOH solution have good wettability. With the increase of the alkali concentration, the strength and elongation of profiled polyester yarns decrease, and the strength and elongation properties of the profiled polyester yarns are lost significantly while the alkali agent concentration is higher than 6%.

      Dyeing properties of polylactic acid fabric by carrier dyeing method
      WU Qiqi, LI Min, LIU Yining, WANG Lejun, ZHANG Liping, FU Shaohai
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  79-83.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171205906
      Abstract ( 723 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1729KB) ( 136 )   Save
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      In order to solve the shallow coloration of polylactic acid(PLA) dyed fabrics under normal pressure and the damage of fabrics dyed under high temperature and pressure, the influence of dyeing factors such as carrier type and dosage and dyeing temperature on dyeing properties of PLA fabrics were investigated by carrier dyeing method. By analyzing the scanning electro microscopy and X-ray diffraction of the dyed fabric, the dyeing properties of disperse dyes on PLA fabrics under optimum conditions were studied. It is found that the apparent color depth value (K/S value) of PLA fabric can reach the same effect as high temperature and pressure dyeing (K/S value is 23.21) under the conditions of the carrier (90BHC, 0.25%), disperse red SE-3B (2% o.w.f) and temperature of 90 ℃ and holding for 40 min, while the burst strength loss of fabric is lower (decreased 2.7%). The fiber surface is not damaged, and the dyeing process has no effect on the crystal morphology of the fiber. The dyeing properties of disperse dyes on PLA fabrics were studied. The fiber-striping test shows that the PLA fabrics obtained by this dyeing method is better in dye penetration. The fastness to sunlight and color fastness to soaping shows that the fastness of disperse dyes on PLA fabrics is excellent.

      Synthesis of polysulfopropylbetaine and its application inantibacterial cotton fabric
      ZHOU Li, WANG Hongbo, DU Jinmei, FU Jiajia, WANG Wencong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  84-90.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180100607
      Abstract ( 875 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (2102KB) ( 169 )   Save
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      In order to realize the efficient and durable antibacterial activities of cotton textiles, polysulfopropylbetaine (PSPB) antibacterial agents were prepared and applied in the functional finishing of cotton fabrics. The influence of finishing agent concentration, bath ratio, soaking time, baking time and baking temperature on the inhibition zone of cotton fabrics were carried out. The optimal conditions are 54 g/L of finishing agent concentration, 1∶30 of bath ratio, 50 min of soaking time, 150 s of baking time and 170 ℃ of baking temperature. Additionally, counting viable bacteria method was adopted to test the antibacterial properties and fastness to washing of cotton fabrics finished under the optimum reaction conditions. Also, it was proved that PSPB is synthesized and grafted successfully onto the surface of cellulose by characterization of infrared spectrometer and scanning electro microscopy. It is shown that the cotton fabrics finished by PSPB possesses excellent washability, and exhibits good antibacterial activity against both gram-negative bacteria Escherichia coli and gram-positive bacteria Staphylococcus aureus, with 99.87% and 99.99%, respectively, in antibacterial ratio. In terms of tests on the breaking strength and whiteness, no significant influence exists on cotton fabrics finished with PSPB and both properties accord with wearing needs.

      Application of copper complex in low-temperature neutral bleaching of cotton knitted fabrics
      WU Chenren, LÜ Wangyang, CHEN Wenxing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  91-96.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180201206
      Abstract ( 595 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (1691KB) ( 211 )   Save
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      For the excessive energy consumption in the conventional high temperature bleaching processes of cotton fabrics, a copper complex with iminodiacetic acid, bivalent copper ions and pyridine derivatives was used as the catalyst for hydrogen peroxide low temperature bleaching to construct a novel low temperature cotton knitted fabric bleaching system. The effects of temperature, concentration of complex, bleaching time, mass concentration of sodium hydroxide and concentration of hydrogen peroxide mass of on bleaching effect of cotton knitted fabric were discussed. At the same time, the degradation process of p-coumaric acid as the model compound of lignin was studied and the mechanism of catalytic bleaching of cotton knitted fabric in the presence of copper complex catalyst was proposed. By single factor test, the final optimized bleaching process was determined as follows: metal complex of 30 μmol/L, 30% H2O2 of 10 g/L, penetrant agent of 2 g/L, scouring agent of 2 g/L, liquor ratio of 1∶30, and bleaching at 60 ℃ for 60 min. Under the neutral condition, the whiteness of the treated fabric can reach 75.03%, and the bursting strength loss is smaller.

      Preparation and microwave absorption property of flexible lightweight magnetic particles-carbon fiber composites
      YE Wei, SUN Lei, YU Jin, SUN Qilong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  97-102.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20170203106
      Abstract ( 1001 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (1807KB) ( 144 )   Save
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      For developing novel flexible lightweight composite materials having both dielectric loss and magnetic loss abilities, magnetic particles-carbon fiber composites were prepared by impregnating polyacrylonitrile (PAN) based preoxidative fiber felts with metal salt solution and high temperature carbonizing. As-prepared materials were characterized and analyzed by segmental support based adsorption, X-ray diffraction, energy dispersive spectrometry, and scanning electron microscopy. Results show that the prepared composite material was composed of carbon fibers and magnetic Fe-Co-Ni, Fe3O4, Fe-Ni, Fe-Co and so on. The magnetic particles are uniformly distributed along the fiber axis. With the synergistic effects of dielectric loss of magnetic particles and magnetic loss of carbon fibers, such carbon fiber composite materials exhibites excellent microwave absorption property. When the treatment temperature is 650 ℃ and 700 ℃, the absorption bands of electromagnetic wave loss lower than -5 dB are 8.6-18 GHz and 10-18 GHz, respectively, while the absorption frequency are 13.9-18 GHz and 14-18 GHz for those of electromagnetic loss lower than -10 dB. In addtion, the treatment temperature higher than 700 ℃ or lower than 650 ℃ will decrease the adsorption of electromagnetic waves. The microwave absorption property of magnetic particle-carbon fiber composites can controlled by adjusting the treatment temperature.

      Effect of flame retardant on properties of polyvinyl chloride/polyester composites
      ZHAO Qinghua, MAO Qincen, MEI Tao, NIU Yingmai, WANG Dong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  103-107.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180200705
      Abstract ( 845 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (1447KB) ( 232 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problem that the flame retardant performance of polyvinyl chloride (PVC)/polyester (PET) composites was lower than that of PVC and polyester. The PET fabric-reinforced PVC composites with the limit oxygen index grenter 28% were prepared by adding different retardants in the PVC/cyclohexanone solution, and coating an polyester fabric. The properties of flame retardant, light transmission and self-cleaning of PVC/PET composites were evaluated by a limiting oxygen index tester, a contact angle tester and a visible light transmittance tester, respectively. The results demonstrate that flant redardant maihly contaraing allyl benzotriazole (WSA-105) has good flame-retardant performance for PVC/PET composites. Moreover, the effects of different concentrations of WSA-105 and different thicknesses of PVC coating on limiting oxygen index, contact angle and light transmittance of the PVC/PET fabric composite were studied, and the results indicate that the light transmittance is 5% and the limiting oxygen index is 30% with the flame retardant concentration of 10% and the coating thickness of 1.35 mm for construction membrane materials.

      Pilot study on treatment of polyacrylate sizing wastewater
      WANG Fengbo, WANG Jiayi, SUN Zheng, MA Yanxue, LÜ Yingzhi, ZHANG Weifeng, LÜ Yan, LÜ Mingming, CHEN Siyu, LI Yuling, CHEN Xiaoguang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  108-113.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180106106
      Abstract ( 526 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1706KB) ( 92 )   Save
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      In view of the characteristics of polyacrylate wastewater, such as high concentration, hard degradation and single component, a biological treatment method adopting an anaerobic-aerobic reactor based on co-metabolism was studied, focusing on the startup operating of and the performance of the reactor. The results show that the system operating cycle is about 30 d on the basis of increasing the ratio of polyester wastewater. Besides, under the conditions of concentration of chemical oxygen demand (COD) 1 600 mg/L, hydraulic residence time (HRT) of 41.7 h, temperature of (35±3) ℃ and concentration of dissolved orygen (DO) 3.5 mg/L, the average removal rate of COD is 95.2%. The main indexes of the final effluent reaches the water pollutant emission standard of textile dyeing and finishing industry. It is also proved that the system has strong load impact resistance.

      Apparel Engineering
      Three-dimensional on-site scanning measurement and characterization of air gap entrapped between flame manikin and clothing
      WANG Min, LI Jun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  114-119.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180305906
      Abstract ( 415 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (2426KB) ( 289 )   Save
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      In order to accurately acquir the air gap thickness and distribution of fireproof clothing before and after heat exposure in the flame manikin test, a measurement and characterization method based on three-dimensional (3-D) on-site scanning was proposed. Firstly, by using Kinect depth cameras, a 3-D scanning platform was established in the combustion chamber, based on which the 3-D point cloud data of the nude manikin and clothed manikin before and after exposure was obtained directly. Then by modeling, alignment, and 3-D comparison in the reverse engineering software Geomagic, and with the realization of accurate location of the manikin surface sensors in the 3-D space, the air gap thickness and distribution were extracted quickly and effectively. The verification test results show that even for the same clothes, the distribution of air gaps under clothing is quite different each time. The variation coefficients of the gap thickness at the back before and after exposure even reach 46% and 35%, respectively. This indicates that the data obtained from the previous remote scanning method an not fully reflect the real state in the combustion test, and the on-site scanning is more conducive to accurately analyze the influence of air thickness change caused by clothing material, specifications, thermal shrinkage and other factors on the thermal protective performance.

      Automatic measurement of three-dimensional human body based on scattered point cloud
      BAO Chen, MIAO Yongwei, SUN Yuliang, ZHANG Xudong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  120-129.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180306210
      Abstract ( 1379 )   HTML ( 21 )   PDF (3083KB) ( 230 )   Save
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      In order to solve the human body's characteristic size extraction in 3-D human body scanning reconstruction using Kinect depth camera, an automatic measurement scheme of 3-D human body size based on scattered point cloud was proposed. Firstly, the collected 3-D point cloud was preprocessed, and then the front and back surfaces of a human body were identified by point cloud desampling, outlier filtering, surface reconstruction and point cloud coordinate transformation. Then, the human body geometric shape analysis method was used to automatically extract human body's characteristic points and characteristic section point cloud. Finally, the characteristic boundary points were extracted from the obtained characteristic cross section point cloud, and then the characteristic boundary line was obtained by the contour extraction algorithm based on the convex hull, the girth and arc length were calculated through the cubic B-spline curve fittings, and the length was calculated by coordinate difference and Euclidean distance, so that the characteristic size measurement of the 3-D human body point cloud model was completed. The experiment results show that the scheme is less affected by human body shape factors, and the proposed automatic extraction scheme of size information is effective. The feasibility is verified according to the measurement accuracy requirements of related standard.

      Parametric flat pattern design for clothing based on MatLab
      ZHANG Lingli, ZHANG Gaopeng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  130-135.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180104106
      Abstract ( 1322 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (1647KB) ( 473 )   Save
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      In order to solve the low efficiency of software in apparel CAD in manual methods and unsuitability of the scaled pattern to various independent garment specifications, a parametric pattern making software was developed for the back body of a shirt based on the MatLab platform of software development. A program of garment pattern making was explored by methods of template calculating, data visualizing and interactive program developing. The results show that the back body pattern of shirt with a certain series of garment sizes can be obtained after running of the software driven by the garment specifications. The garment patterns can be created or updated automatically withindependently changeable sizes with in a few seconds. Thus, the parametric flat pattern design technology based on MatLab can promote the response capability of apparel customization.

      Machinery & Accessories
      Magnetic holding electronic needle selector and serial bus jacquard control system for circular knitting machine
      PENG Laihu, WANG Luojun, HU Xudong, WU Zhenhui, YUAN Yanhong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  136-141.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180201806
      Abstract ( 683 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (2017KB) ( 179 )   Save
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      Aiming at problems of existing needle selectors in jacquard circular knitting machine, such as slow operation speed, large unit to unit performance variation and easy overheating, a novel electronic needle selector employing fast forward and reverse gaussing/degaussing of solenoid actuator was presented. Based on the magnetization of the ferromagnetic material and the operating characteristics of selector solenoid, a new circuit drive and a control method of needle selector were proposed to switch and to maintain the states of the selector blade by alternating the magnetization direction of the semi-hard ferromagnetic material of the solenoid core. To meet the requirements of such needle selectors, a design of jacquard control system for circular bi-directional industrial serial bus architecture was also proposed for minimizing signal crosstalk and enhancing anti-interference performance in unidirectional parallel bus architecture. The resnlts show both the laboratory experiment and field testing demonstrate that the new system design can sustain temperature rise within 9 ℃ during operation. The maximum operating frequency of 65 Hz is obtained. Also the design enhances the serial bus's anti-jamming performance and improves the jacquard control system reliability.

      Sensitivity analysis on kinematic accuracy of needle bar mechanism in embroidery machine
      GUO Huixin, ZHANG Ganqing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  142-146.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171005205
      Abstract ( 751 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (1396KB) ( 334 )   Save
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      In order to improve the kinematic precision and its robustness of the needle bar mechanism in the embroidery machine, the global sensitivity analysis on the kinematic accuracy of this mechanism was carried out by using the Sobol' method. On the basis of global sensitivity analysis, the optimum design of the needle bar mechanism was carried out. Firstly, considering the effect of rod manufacturing error and kinematic pair clearance on the needle bar displacement, a numerical model for kinematic accuracy analysis of needle bar mechanism was established. Then, the total sensitivity of 14 random variables was obtained by using the Sobol' global sensitivity analysis method, and 4 important factors and 1 key factor were determined according to the order of sensitivity, in which the length of the connecting rod is the key factor. By reducing the manufacturing error of the key factor, the kinematic accuracy of the needle bar mechanism was further optimized. The results show that the standard deviation of the displacement error of the needle bar mechanism is reduced obviously, and the robustness of the motion accuracy is improved.

      Yarn packages hairiness detection based on machine vision
      JING Junfeng, GUO Gen
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  147-152.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180302306
      Abstract ( 519 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1751KB) ( 160 )   Save
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      In order to realize the automatic detection of the hairiness of yarn packages, a method for detecting the hairiness of yarn packages based on machine vision was proposed. Firstly, the convolution kernel was constructed, and the hairiness characteristics were obtained by convolving the original image with the convolution kernel, and binarization was performed using threshold processing. Secondly, the contours of the binarized hairiness were detected, and then the contour points were screened to reduce the computing time. Finally, the unidirectional convex hull detection was applied to the outline points which meet the screening conditions, and then the hairiness of the yarn packages was located and counted. Three kinds of typical yarn packages were used to verify the method. The experimental results show that the method can position and count the hairiness number of the yarn packages accurately, and has strong adaptability to the hairiness images of different backgrounds.

      Management & Information
      Improved algorithm for fabric defect detection based on Canny operator
      HU Keman, LUO Siolong, HU Haiyan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  153-158.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171206406
      Abstract ( 736 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (2066KB) ( 199 )   Save
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      In order to solve the self-adaption problem that current Canny operator needs to set threshold and to choose the filtering parameters in the fabric defect edge detection, an improved algorithm based on the original Canny operator was proposed. Firstly different filter parameters were chosen according to the type of the fabric flaw, and then self-adaption was used to obtain the threshold and the parameters of the filter, which avoids the wrong choosing of threshold leading to the lack or redundant edge information, and different filter parameters were chosen according to the type of the fabric flaw. The results showed that the improved Canny algorithm can detect the edge detail of fabric defects, and has good self-adaption capability. Compared to the conventional algorithm, the improved algorithm has better detection results.

      Three-dimensional modeling on single-layer woven fabric structure using MAXScript language
      WANG Xu, CHU Changliu, NI Qingqing, LIU Xinhua
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  159-165.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180304307
      Abstract ( 742 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (2167KB) ( 89 )   Save
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      In order to improve the efficiency of three-dimensional modeling of woven fabric structure, a method of constructing three-dimensional model of woven fabric using MAXScript language embedded in 3ds MAX software was proposed. According to the theory of structure phase of woven fabric and the interlace rule of warp yarns and weft yarns, the relationship between the number of data points of yarn axis and the three-dimensional coordinates of the data point and the geometrical structure parameters of the woven fabric was established. And the warp axis curve, weft axis curve and the three-dimensional model of the fabric structure was established by SplineShape class object based on the the MAXScript program. The research shows that the coordinate of data point can be established according to the geometric parameters of the woven fabric by MAXScript program, and the curve of the yarn axis can be automatically generated by the spline interpolation with property setting of SplineShape class object and a parameter input interface of woven fabric is developed by rollout feature of MAXScript program, then the parametric three-dimensional model of the woven fabric structure can be realized conveniently and quickly.

      Decision of energy-saving and emission-reduction in textile industry based on supply chain
      WANG Xiaofeng, ZHU Chen, YUAN Yin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  166-174.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180305309
      Abstract ( 557 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (2303KB) ( 248 )   Save
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      For helping the textile enterprises to better face the pressure from energy saving and emission reduction under the background of environmental protection taxes, the decision of energy-saving and emission-reduction in textile supply chain was studied using two types of models based on the characteristics of textile production process. One is the two-level supply chain model composed of textile enterprises and brand manufacturers, and the other one is the three-level one by adding the recyclers for recycling. By Stackelberg game, the optimal pricing, optimal profit and optimal emission reduction rate of each product were obtained. The research results show that the three-level supply chain model has a higher retail price and demand for new products than that of the two-level supply chain model. In the meanwhile, the optimal emission reduction rate could be reduced. Recycling of textiles are effective measures for textile enterprises to overcome their difficulties. By setting reasonable tax standards, the government can effectively stimulate textile enterprises to invest in energy-saving and emission-reduction and improve the supply chain profits, achieving a win-win strategy in both environmental and economic benefits.

      Comprehensive Review
      Current situation and trend of protective clothing for emergency rescue
      ZHANG Haitang, WANG Hongfu, KE Ying
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  175-181.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180306107
      Abstract ( 2547 )   HTML ( 49 )   PDF (2102KB) ( 406 )   Save
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      In order to provide basic data and scientific basis for improving the function and comfort performance of emergency rescue protective clothing and optimum design of products, the development status of emergency rescue protective clothing was expounded from fabric selection, clothing structure design and main test methods. The basic designing processes of the rescue protective clothing were summarized, i.e., identifying application requirements, identifying key protection objects, designing the initial scheme and determining the best solution. The research bottleneck of the present rescue protective clothing in difficult combination of different functions, complex standards, and poor control on the accuracy of comfort evaluation was presented. It was predicted that the difference and high performance fibers, multi-functional and smart protecting system, better wearing comfort, and a complete and standard evaluating system would be the developing trends.

      Invited Paper
      Trends and key subjects of apparel design and engineering
      CHEN Yan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(01):  182-188.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181003807
      Abstract ( 1003 )   HTML ( 21 )   PDF (2324KB) ( 418 )   Save
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      The discipline development of Apparel Design and Engineering should be oriented by the development of Apparel Industries. On the basis of the current situation analysis, the development trends of the apparel industries were stated in the terms of textile materials, design and manufacture, apparel dressing system, business model and sustainable development. The characters and performances of the advanced technology were also analyzed in the Apparel Industry and discipline. The development trends of the apparel discipline were analyzed at the aspects of discipline integration, environment awareness, service oriented fashion system and digitized-networked-intelligence technology. Based on the reviews and analysis, the topical research subjects were proposed to support the development of Apparel Design and Engineering discipline. Six aspects of research subjects were proposed including apparel materials, advanced apparel design method, ergonomic system, intelligent apparel and intelligent apparel manufacture, novel business model, management and sustainable development of apparel supply chain.